I just went through this entire scenario on my 2010 FX4. Installed a TCI drain plug on the exhaust side of the pan sump with copper crush washers on either side and torque nutted down. Added sealant on all surfaces and a few wraps of teflon tape on the plug body threads just to be sure. Added a second magnet to the opposite side of the pan sump cause why not. Captured the fluid from the return line of the trans cooler (1/2" i.d. clear tubing slides on snuggly) by filling the pan and cycling my remote starter to pump out 3qts at a time until the used fluid was coming out red (took 13qts of Valvoline Extended Protection ATF full syn so doesn't seem the bypass caution is true). Shifting great again plus had a few qts left over to service my transfer case:) The drain definitely makes easy replacing a gallon every 20k & filter @60k. Nice video bruh.
I love doing everything in my truck myself. Your setup is dope af, but the color that came out made me realize the flush at the shop is probably worth it 🤣🤣 so... Thanks for convincing me to save myself a headache 😂
The thermal valve in the 6R80 will NOT allow you to flush the fluid unless the trans reaches and maintains a internal temp of 170*F. All he did in this video is flush all that fluid through the trans cooler. Here is the proof. ruclips.net/video/4Ng3HJdyyoM/видео.html
Always drop the pan and Replace the Filter. Get a cheap Dorman Trans pan or Overpriced pan with a drain plug to make fluid replacement a breeze. Note - there is a valve in the trans that wont open until it reaches 145 degrees. That's what stopped your mini pump. I had the same issues.
Thanks for the advice about the valve. About the filter though, it's not like your oil filter, it really only catches the large stuff. If your transmission is not having any issues then it's best to leave it until high mileage. Mechanic at a well know trans shop mentioned to me.
Hey thank you I had considered using the cooler lines and you’ve confirmed this works. Nicely thought out adapter to the pipe back to your new oil reservoir. I’m not sure about just putting in what came out as you didn’t check the level to begin with so no telling if your still running low.also surely the filter wants changing out too? Great vid 👍
@@jerrysantos7460 From what I’ve gathered you have to have at least 1.25 gallons (5qts) to turn engine on safely for the trans and get it up to operating temp to open trans valve. So the easy way would be to drain the case first. Pull the out line and drain and pour a gallon at a time. In total it takes 3.275 gallons should be a much faster and easier job.
Way too complex for me. I use a hand pump at the top of the new fluid jug, and have done this for years. First I disconnect the cooler line coming back from the atf cooler and hook up a large hose to direct the old fluid flushing out into a large 10 qt used oil jug. Then my wife starts the engine and I pump out fluid until it sputters momentarily, (from the trans pump sucking air) then have her shut engine off immediately. Then I drop the mostly empty transmission pan and clean the pan and magnets and replace the filter and install a drain plug kit and reinstall the pan. Then I pump with a hand pump on the new maxlife fluid gallon jug/4 qts fluid back in and have her start and run with both the parking brake and regular brake pressed while she runs it a few seconds in each gear and back to park until it sputters again-immediately shut off engine. Then repeat until fluid going into waste jug looks and smells new and tell her to shut off. Then reconnect cooler hose and follow procedure to fill to correct level. I have been doing this same procedure on every automatic for 35 years and have had some automatics go 400k miles. Sometimes I skip the pan drop/drain plug like on Hondas/Acura which have no pan! I often add an inline Magnefine filter one of the cooler hoses and add additional cooler when needed for towing, etc. I love the (synthetic) Maxlife ATF and use it on nearly everything. Never a problem. Buy at Walmart for $18/gal plus tax. The new universal full syn Castrol beside it is great too for the newer 2005-2015 BMWs I service.
I strongly disagree with not dropping the pan and changing the filter and cleaning magnets off. But that’s my opinion. I heard your explanation on not dropping the pan but to each their own.
So even though you didn’t drop the pan you still have metal magnet washers that are dirty and you cleaned I’ve always been told since a little kid you always want to drop the pan to clean those so they can collect and get any metal debris that is within that transmission.
There is a thermal bypass valve in the trans that does not open up until the trans fluid is about 170 degrees plus. If that valve is not open, the fluid is not moving from the trans into the cooler.
Yeah, I keep seeing this everywhere and no videos are addressing this. Do you just let the fluid warm up and then do the flush? Or flush the cooler line and drop the pan and replace fluid for that loop separately? I need answers Sway!
Or, is it safe to remove that bypass just for this flush and then put the valve back in and replace the couple of quarts that come out of the drain pan when you put the valve back in.
From what I’ve gathered you have to have at least 1.25 gallons (5qts) to turn engine on safely for the trans and get it up to operating temp to open trans valve. So the easy way would be to drain the case first. Pull the out line and drain and pour a gallon at a time. It should drain in neutral. In total it takes 3.275 gallons should be a much faster and easier job.
Thank you great video I want to do the same thing and had some questions. Why did you switch from pumping in at the radiator connections to the transmission pan? Another thing is that I'm wondering if I can do this without the pump? theoreticaly, if the transmission is pumping fluid, it should be pulling that fluid at the same rate. I just don't understand why the pump is needed unless the transmission pump can't overcome the pressure drop you are adding to the system (which may be possible). The other thing a lot of people seem to overlook in these videos is that theirs a thermal bypass valve that is closed in the transmission. No one seems to have a lot of info on this, but I think there's a loop in the transmission and a second loop to the cooler. So I'm just wondering, with some gloves on, is it best to just warm up the transmission so that the bypass valve opens and then do exactly what you did. Sorry long comment haha, just thinking this through I think you went about this in a better way than most other youtoubers do, I don't know why the commenters are giving you so much grief.
Great comment. I was unaware of the valve that is apparently closed when under the set value. That is at I think the pump wasn't pumping and then I decided to just go to the pan. I think even if your transmission is at temp, the method I used would not work as the fluid gets exchanged, the temp goes cold and the valve closes. I'm not sure if the suction is strong enough to pull the new fluid in but would prob work if the new fluid was gravity fed into it. My recommendation is this, use the cooler line to empty the pan, fill the pan @ the pan fill hole, run it for a few days and repeat. Shouldn't ever have issues and no mess. No need to change filter or drop the pan unless there's an issue with the transmission internally. Goodluck
@@_willalexander.88 Thanks! That is a great point, I didn't even think about when you add the fluid that it might reduce the temp and close the valve. Although its not maintenance friendly, this is what I enjoy about working on cars is that you get to learn about the engineering behind it. Yes, I think what I'm going to is take it one step further and just flush the cooler loop like you did. And then drop the pan and replace the fluid in that loop. I'm not sure if there would be some fluid left in between (e.g. the torque converter), but then I can just do the process one more time after driving a few days to ensure I replace most of the fluid. I think Motorcraft sells 5 gallon LV ATF in a bag that you have to buy from the dealer but its only about $70 and can do about 2 flushes worth if the total capacity is about 13 quarts of the transmission. Thanks for taking the time to reply! Look forward to more videos!
He pretty much did do it from the cooler. Or do you mean pumping in from the cooler the whole time. Please elaborate. Yes, you should have made a video David.
Agree! The "fiter" is really a screen and if the transmission clutch packs have not disintegrated, you will find nothing in the filter when you cut it up. I only ever change the fluid and never replace the filter because there are no "chunks" in the filter. If there were - then the transmission is due for a rebuild.
Yes. Flush it after a good summer drive hot and then is fine. Put a drain plug in so next time you can do a much easier and quicker drain/refill to keep fluid in great shape indefinitely. I don't install drain plug kit unless trans pan has plenty ground clearance like on an F150. You don't want that to be the thing that hits the ground when you inadvertently bottom out the front suspension
1st great video... Seems like it would be easier to turn the truck on and let pump out until you start to see bubbles then turn off and pump the same amount while the truck is off and keep repeating until the fluid is clear. Am I missing anything?
Then you don't get all of the fluid. You're just replacing a couple quarts and the whole transmission system is full of 13 quarts. So the way you're saying would only replace about ~4 quarts and then you're mixing it in with the remaining ~9 quarts. You're just diluting and diluting, never really getting new fluid. Think about what you comment next time buddy.
@@guguimke5799 The thermal valve in the 6R80 will NOT allow you to flush the fluid unless the trans reaches and maintains a internal temp of 170*F. All he did in this video is flush all that fluid through the trans cooler. Here is the proof. ruclips.net/video/4Ng3HJdyyoM/видео.html
@@guguimke5799 how does that make him an idiot if that’s how he wants to do his maintenance that’s how he wants to do his maintenance that’s not everybody is like you. I would still drop the pain regardless because of the fact that you got a clean those magnets off I was taught to hit it from every fucking angle drop in the pan flushing it whatever. Yeah but I find it very funny how when I would like to have help nobody ever wants to help me but I always going to help them.
@@MrCherrygrovedude I get your comment, but respect the man for thinking through his decision. You're pushing the filter change, but if it was sooooo important, why are their magnets just sitting on the drain pan? Think about it man, not rocket science.
@@johnc6256 So you're just going to dilute the system? Mix fresh fluid with old used fluid? How are you going to get out the other 50%? Let me get my popcorn I want to hear this explanation
@@_willalexander.88 Did you have any shifting problems in your transmission by using the Valvoline High mileage fluid? I have a F-150 similar to yours. They offer the standard ATF fluid but it's hard to find in the gallon jugs for the similar price. I ask this because I've heard some people using certain brands have had some problems.
i kinda disagree with you not dropping the pan and changing out the filter!!!! kinda think what you did was pointless without switching it out... screen or not it SHOULD be changed out!
I did to until a few mechanics showed me that it wasn't necessary. It's more for preventing bigger debris from creating catastrophic failure vs like an oil filter.
Ive seen carpenters do some pretty crazy shiat as well!!! Watch holmes on homes and youll see!!! My point is, just because a mechanic showed you, doesnt mean they know!!!!!
@@jimhendrix7776 I get your comment, but respect the man for thinking through his decision. You're pushing the filter change, but if it was sooooo important, why are their magnets just sitting on the drain pan? Think about it man, not rocket science.
I respectfully disagree. Have you ever found anything in the filter when the transmission is healthy? There is never any thing in there. It's only a screen and designed to catch large particles from destroying the valve body - but at that point, large particles mean the clutch packs have already disintegrated due to over heating and burnt fluid, and at this point, the transmission needs to be rebuilt. But the screen filter protects the valve body from getting contaminated with the large particicles, which would make the rebuild even more expensive. Think of the filter as a rebuild cost saver. In a healthy transmission, it will catch nothing.
hahahahaha. that's assuming the dealership will do it right. And they're going to charge you at least $250. We want to do it right and do it ourselves and save money. Not be a basic money tree for mechanics
@@guguimke5799 there is a time and a place to save money. Im not going to try to save $250 by doing it myself. Sure, the dealership might do it wrong but they will be held to account on it. Do it yourself and pop the trans and you are going to be wishing you just paid the $250 as you are now out a few thousand. Also, you just void your warranty if you had one. I don't work at a dealership but every tech I know would void your warranty if they found out you did this yourself.
@@MrMcIntyre1220 Yeah I'm not under warranty. And good luck holding them accountable, why go through all of that headache if they do it wrong? What if they create a problem and you don't catch it till much later? They're going to say you did it by how you drive. It would be a huge time waste to TRY to hold them accountable, and then you're going to be out a vehicle for a while while they fix your trans if it goes bad. Rather just do it myself and do it right. We can agree to disagree, we just have totally different philosophies, it gives me much more peace of mind to do things like this on my own, I have enough confidence in my abilities to research and do the work. Only way I would do this thing at the dealership is if I had a really good relationship with the tech and they demonstrated that they knew all of these details about a flush on these specific transmissions. I know what you mean though, but for anyone that prefers going to the dealer, I would highly recommend them to conversate with the tech and ask about the details. Most professionals don't like getting questioned, but maybe those shouldn't be your mechanics then.
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I just went through this entire scenario on my 2010 FX4. Installed a TCI drain plug on the exhaust side of the pan sump with copper crush washers on either side and torque nutted down. Added sealant on all surfaces and a few wraps of teflon tape on the plug body threads just to be sure. Added a second magnet to the opposite side of the pan sump cause why not. Captured the fluid from the return line of the trans cooler (1/2" i.d. clear tubing slides on snuggly) by filling the pan and cycling my remote starter to pump out 3qts at a time until the used fluid was coming out red (took 13qts of Valvoline Extended Protection ATF full syn so doesn't seem the bypass caution is true). Shifting great again plus had a few qts left over to service my transfer case:) The drain definitely makes easy replacing a gallon every 20k & filter @60k. Nice video bruh.
I love doing everything in my truck myself. Your setup is dope af, but the color that came out made me realize the flush at the shop is probably worth it 🤣🤣 so... Thanks for convincing me to save myself a headache 😂
My project for my 07 Expedition tomorrow. Thanks
The thermal valve in the 6R80 will NOT allow you to flush the fluid unless the trans reaches and maintains a internal temp of 170*F. All he did in this video is flush all that fluid through the trans cooler. Here is the proof. ruclips.net/video/4Ng3HJdyyoM/видео.html
Great catch Scott. Brian @fordmakuloco starts explaining this at 17:55
Transmissions holds 12 quarts. Ford dealers charge 10 quarts to do a full fluid exchange.
Scott. From experience I can tell you that is not correct.
If the transfluid is hot you will be able to cycle most of the fluid out before the thermal closes
Always drop the pan and Replace the Filter. Get a cheap Dorman Trans pan or Overpriced pan with a drain plug to make fluid replacement a breeze. Note - there is a valve in the trans that wont open until it reaches 145 degrees. That's what stopped your mini pump. I had the same issues.
Thanks for the advice about the valve. About the filter though, it's not like your oil filter, it really only catches the large stuff. If your transmission is not having any issues then it's best to leave it until high mileage. Mechanic at a well know trans shop mentioned to me.
Hey thank you
I had considered using the cooler lines and you’ve confirmed this works. Nicely thought out adapter to the pipe back to your new oil reservoir.
I’m not sure about just putting in what came out as you didn’t check the level to begin with so no telling if your still running low.also surely the filter wants changing out too?
Great vid 👍
Good looking truck
Good job man
Not dropping the pan means the magnet isn't getting cleaned.
dropping the pan only gets 3.5qts out of the 13qts
Or the filter that needs to be changed
@@jerrysantos7460 From what I’ve gathered you have to have at least 1.25 gallons (5qts) to turn engine on safely for the trans and get it up to operating temp to open trans valve. So the easy way would be to drain the case first. Pull the out line and drain and pour a gallon at a time. In total it takes 3.275 gallons should be a much faster and easier job.
Way too complex for me. I use a hand pump at the top of the new fluid jug, and have done this for years. First I disconnect the cooler line coming back from the atf cooler and hook up a large hose to direct the old fluid flushing out into a large 10 qt used oil jug. Then my wife starts the engine and I pump out fluid until it sputters momentarily, (from the trans pump sucking air) then have her shut engine off immediately. Then I drop the mostly empty transmission pan and clean the pan and magnets and replace the filter and install a drain plug kit and reinstall the pan. Then I pump with a hand pump on the new maxlife fluid gallon jug/4 qts fluid back in and have her start and run with both the parking brake and regular brake pressed while she runs it a few seconds in each gear and back to park until it sputters again-immediately shut off engine. Then repeat until fluid going into waste jug looks and smells new and tell her to shut off. Then reconnect cooler hose and follow procedure to fill to correct level. I have been doing this same procedure on every automatic for 35 years and have had some automatics go 400k miles. Sometimes I skip the pan drop/drain plug like on Hondas/Acura which have no pan! I often add an inline Magnefine filter one of the cooler hoses and add additional cooler when needed for towing, etc. I love the (synthetic) Maxlife ATF and use it on nearly everything. Never a problem. Buy at Walmart for $18/gal plus tax. The new universal full syn Castrol beside it is great too for the newer 2005-2015 BMWs I service.
I strongly disagree with not dropping the pan and changing the filter and cleaning magnets off. But that’s my opinion. I heard your explanation on not dropping the pan but to each their own.
So even though you didn’t drop the pan you still have metal magnet washers that are dirty and you cleaned I’ve always been told since a little kid you always want to drop the pan to clean those so they can collect and get any metal debris that is within that transmission.
this is a good way to burn up your transmission. you need a machine like the shops have. need to replace the fluid as it is being pumped out
There is a thermal bypass valve in the trans that does not open up until the trans fluid is about 170 degrees plus. If that valve is not open, the fluid is not moving from the trans into the cooler.
Yeah, I keep seeing this everywhere and no videos are addressing this. Do you just let the fluid warm up and then do the flush? Or flush the cooler line and drop the pan and replace fluid for that loop separately? I need answers Sway!
Or, is it safe to remove that bypass just for this flush and then put the valve back in and replace the couple of quarts that come out of the drain pan when you put the valve back in.
@@guguimke5799 sure if you drop the trans pan. Its above the valve body
Wouldn't it been much easier to drop the pan ? and change the filter as well?
From what I’ve gathered you have to have at least 1.25 gallons (5qts) to turn engine on safely for the trans and get it up to operating temp to open trans valve. So the easy way would be to drain the case first. Pull the out line and drain and pour a gallon at a time. It should drain in neutral. In total it takes 3.275 gallons should be a much faster and easier job.
Thank you great video I want to do the same thing and had some questions. Why did you switch from pumping in at the radiator connections to the transmission pan? Another thing is that I'm wondering if I can do this without the pump? theoreticaly, if the transmission is pumping fluid, it should be pulling that fluid at the same rate. I just don't understand why the pump is needed unless the transmission pump can't overcome the pressure drop you are adding to the system (which may be possible). The other thing a lot of people seem to overlook in these videos is that theirs a thermal bypass valve that is closed in the transmission. No one seems to have a lot of info on this, but I think there's a loop in the transmission and a second loop to the cooler. So I'm just wondering, with some gloves on, is it best to just warm up the transmission so that the bypass valve opens and then do exactly what you did. Sorry long comment haha, just thinking this through I think you went about this in a better way than most other youtoubers do, I don't know why the commenters are giving you so much grief.
Great comment. I was unaware of the valve that is apparently closed when under the set value. That is at I think the pump wasn't pumping and then I decided to just go to the pan. I think even if your transmission is at temp, the method I used would not work as the fluid gets exchanged, the temp goes cold and the valve closes. I'm not sure if the suction is strong enough to pull the new fluid in but would prob work if the new fluid was gravity fed into it. My recommendation is this, use the cooler line to empty the pan, fill the pan @ the pan fill hole, run it for a few days and repeat. Shouldn't ever have issues and no mess. No need to change filter or drop the pan unless there's an issue with the transmission internally.
Goodluck
@@_willalexander.88 Thanks! That is a great point, I didn't even think about when you add the fluid that it might reduce the temp and close the valve. Although its not maintenance friendly, this is what I enjoy about working on cars is that you get to learn about the engineering behind it. Yes, I think what I'm going to is take it one step further and just flush the cooler loop like you did. And then drop the pan and replace the fluid in that loop. I'm not sure if there would be some fluid left in between (e.g. the torque converter), but then I can just do the process one more time after driving a few days to ensure I replace most of the fluid. I think Motorcraft sells 5 gallon LV ATF in a bag that you have to buy from the dealer but its only about $70 and can do about 2 flushes worth if the total capacity is about 13 quarts of the transmission. Thanks for taking the time to reply! Look forward to more videos!
How did you manage to open the interior thermostat that allows the flow from Trans to cooler? That's the only way to do a full swap.
Unfortunately I found out later. I thought it would stay open a lot longer for a better exchange. Not a huge deal though.
The only thing you don't get doing this way is cleaning the bottom of the pan of shavings and crud and a new filter.
If you would have done it from the cooler it would have been way easier. I knew i should have made a video
He pretty much did do it from the cooler. Or do you mean pumping in from the cooler the whole time. Please elaborate. Yes, you should have made a video David.
What's the point if you don't change the filter?
Kinda like changing engine oil but not oil filter.
Bc the filter in the transmission is not like an engine filter. Just catches the big stuff to prevent a catastrophic failure.
Agree! The "fiter" is really a screen and if the transmission clutch packs have not disintegrated, you will find nothing in the filter when you cut it up. I only ever change the fluid and never replace the filter because there are no "chunks" in the filter. If there were - then the transmission is due for a rebuild.
Put the fresh atf up in engine bay and pump down.
Doesn’t the 6r80 transmissions have a thermostat built inside that Hass to be open so that you can flush it?
Yes. Flush it after a good summer drive hot and then is fine. Put a drain plug in so next time you can do a much easier and quicker drain/refill to keep fluid in great shape indefinitely. I don't install drain plug kit unless trans pan has plenty ground clearance like on an F150. You don't want that to be the thing that hits the ground when you inadvertently bottom out the front suspension
1st great video... Seems like it would be easier to turn the truck on and let pump out until you start to see bubbles then turn off and pump the same amount while the truck is off and keep repeating until the fluid is clear. Am I missing anything?
Just pump 4qts out of pan then 4 back in and repeat a day later. Internal temp needs to be met to allow proper flow. Just do the fluid transfer.
@@_willalexander.88 👍🏻
It’s safer to just drain and fill it up with new atf.
Then you don't get all of the fluid. You're just replacing a couple quarts and the whole transmission system is full of 13 quarts. So the way you're saying would only replace about ~4 quarts and then you're mixing it in with the remaining ~9 quarts. You're just diluting and diluting, never really getting new fluid. Think about what you comment next time buddy.
@@guguimke5799 The thermal valve in the 6R80 will NOT allow you to flush the fluid unless the trans reaches and maintains a internal temp of 170*F. All he did in this video is flush all that fluid through the trans cooler. Here is the proof. ruclips.net/video/4Ng3HJdyyoM/видео.html
@@guguimke5799 how does that make him an idiot if that’s how he wants to do his maintenance that’s how he wants to do his maintenance that’s not everybody is like you. I would still drop the pain regardless because of the fact that you got a clean those magnets off I was taught to hit it from every fucking angle drop in the pan flushing it whatever. Yeah but I find it very funny how when I would like to have help nobody ever wants to help me but I always going to help them.
This the most over complicated, difficult way to do this
Pretty straight forward..
Its a flush. What do you expect? Even just a fluid change is complicated on these semi-sealed transmissions.
Aren't 4 gallons 16 quarts. At one point you were taking out some of the fluid you were adding in. You may have been over a few quarts
Skating on the edge of ruining a torque converter.
No filter change ?
Not needed. It's not like an oil filter. Designed to stop catastrophic failure with big chucks.
LETMELIVE not true. Filter is designed to be changed with the fluid.
But the magnets in the pan collect all the fine magnetic material you never clean Those
@@MrCherrygrovedude I get your comment, but respect the man for thinking through his decision. You're pushing the filter change, but if it was sooooo important, why are their magnets just sitting on the drain pan? Think about it man, not rocket science.
I'm terrified to flush or change filter on my 2011 with 290,000 miles. If it aint broke..
Just do a fluid transfer. Pump 4 quarts out of the pan and pump 4 back in. Does the job.
It would have been easier to just drop the pan replace the filter in the fluid that came out
That's only 20% of the fluid though.
When you drop the pan and change the filter in a 6R80 it takes over 7 quarts you said your video head holds 13 quarts that's over 50%!!!!!!!
@@johnc6256 Torque Converter
@@johnc6256 So you're just going to dilute the system? Mix fresh fluid with old used fluid? How are you going to get out the other 50%? Let me get my popcorn I want to hear this explanation
@@mikecummings4199 Exactly, that guy doesn't understand.
Hey
This is the Valvoline LV yes?
It's valvoline that meets Mercon LV standards
LETMELIVE can I use Motorcraft LV (ATF) for my 2015 f150 ecoboost 3.5 platinum?
@@alikharutyunyan2657 yes. You can use what ever brand as long as it says mercon LV on the container
@@_willalexander.88 Did you have any shifting problems in your transmission by using the Valvoline High mileage fluid?
I have a F-150 similar to yours. They offer the standard ATF fluid but it's hard to find in the gallon jugs for the similar price. I ask this because I've heard some people using certain brands have had some problems.
@333DWS still running like a top. About to hit 100k
Seems senseless to change old fluid and not change the filter. Practically defeats the purpose.
i kinda disagree with you not dropping the pan and changing out the filter!!!! kinda think what you did was pointless without switching it out... screen or not it SHOULD be changed out!
I did to until a few mechanics showed me that it wasn't necessary. It's more for preventing bigger debris from creating catastrophic failure vs like an oil filter.
Ive seen carpenters do some pretty crazy shiat as well!!! Watch holmes on homes and youll see!!! My point is, just because a mechanic showed you, doesnt mean they know!!!!!
@@jimhendrix7776 I get your comment, but respect the man for thinking through his decision. You're pushing the filter change, but if it was sooooo important, why are their magnets just sitting on the drain pan? Think about it man, not rocket science.
if you dont replace your filter you have accomplished nothing
I respectfully disagree. Have you ever found anything in the filter when the transmission is healthy? There is never any thing in there. It's only a screen and designed to catch large particles from destroying the valve body - but at that point, large particles mean the clutch packs have already disintegrated due to over heating and burnt fluid, and at this point, the transmission needs to be rebuilt. But the screen filter protects the valve body from getting contaminated with the large particicles, which would make the rebuild even more expensive.
Think of the filter as a rebuild cost saver. In a healthy transmission, it will catch nothing.
You wasted your time and money. As others have said, unless the transmission is up to temp, you are just flushing the lines.
Cool video but all that pissing around, why not take it to the dealership and have it done quick and right
hahahahaha. that's assuming the dealership will do it right. And they're going to charge you at least $250. We want to do it right and do it ourselves and save money. Not be a basic money tree for mechanics
Clearly you're not in the right spot if you're a "Take it to the dealership" kind of guy-er...sorry, BOY.
@@DOCTOROCTAGONAPUSS LOL! He's gotta work for the dealership, his comment is wrong on so many levels
@@guguimke5799 there is a time and a place to save money. Im not going to try to save $250 by doing it myself. Sure, the dealership might do it wrong but they will be held to account on it. Do it yourself and pop the trans and you are going to be wishing you just paid the $250 as you are now out a few thousand. Also, you just void your warranty if you had one. I don't work at a dealership but every tech I know would void your warranty if they found out you did this yourself.
@@MrMcIntyre1220 Yeah I'm not under warranty. And good luck holding them accountable, why go through all of that headache if they do it wrong? What if they create a problem and you don't catch it till much later? They're going to say you did it by how you drive. It would be a huge time waste to TRY to hold them accountable, and then you're going to be out a vehicle for a while while they fix your trans if it goes bad. Rather just do it myself and do it right. We can agree to disagree, we just have totally different philosophies, it gives me much more peace of mind to do things like this on my own, I have enough confidence in my abilities to research and do the work. Only way I would do this thing at the dealership is if I had a really good relationship with the tech and they demonstrated that they knew all of these details about a flush on these specific transmissions. I know what you mean though, but for anyone that prefers going to the dealer, I would highly recommend them to conversate with the tech and ask about the details. Most professionals don't like getting questioned, but maybe those shouldn't be your mechanics then.
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