Ive watched about 8 videos about this today, and this is by far the best. No one else mentioned how they filled the trans, and you did it in your garage, not on a lift and all that. Thank you!
Greetings, I'm a mechanic of my vehicles, Yamaha YZ450, Harley Davidson, Ford Raptor and others. I wanted to share that the 6R80 transmission F150 when you change the filter and oil, the replace will takes 6 quarts approximately. To measure the oil level is important the engine need to be running. Move 5 second in each position P,R,N,D,M,2,1 then measure the oil level when reach the temperature of 190F. The reason for measuring is because transmission oil expand for the additives at high temperature and cannot exceed the maximum level when is hot, because it damages other components for malfunction. Good luck!
If you want to make less mess and make it more easy to handle the pan use a suction pump and pump out the fluid in the pan before you drop the pan. I did this on a Ford Explorer recently and it makes it a much easier process.
i just did this on my truck yesterday. I wished I'd read this comment before dropping the pan. That's a very good idea!! i also used a round drain pan. Now I'm using a lot oil oil dry.
that's what I did put a clear tube from dipstick hole dwn to a shop vac but run said clear tube into a gallon jug so u can see how much comes out run vac seal off vacum hole except for clear tube and it will fill up gallon jug untill pan empties...then drop pan and no mess... so easy guys,..
For those using this suction pump method to remove fluid before dropping the pan itself, HOW MUCH FLUID WERE YOU ABLE TO EXTRACT through the fill plug hole? How many quarts came out that way? Thanks!
Everyone keep in mind that there are 2 different filters for the 6R80. One has a 1 inch pickup tube and the other has 1.5 inch I believe. If you get the wrong one the transmission will not go into any gear. One part number is FT188 and the other is FT171. If you're not sure which one then pull out your old filter and use another car or have someone take you to the parts store and compare the length of the pickup tube. Most auto parts stores have both filters in stock so you can compare it with yours.
Great call out. Always confirm the part # for your specific application. From looking at the catalog data on both filter numbers, in general part FT-171 fits 2010 and older applications, and FT-188 fits 2011 and newer (it also fits the 2009/2010 Expedition). And always compare your old filter and new filter before installation to make sure they are identical.
Thank you, best video on topic imo. I just did my 2011 f150 with ecoboost at 138,000. Trans shudder had just started. Problem solved with oil and filter change. I did mine twice (1 week apart as the fluid was shockingly dark). I needed a little over 7.5 qts of mercon lv. I put 7qts in and drove 20 minutes till reaching 199 on the trans app gauge. I then was careful to remove passenger front tire and blocked frame and a arm so truck was level. Checking with truck at full temp with an external fan blowing into wheel-well and laying on the driveway on a thin pad did the trick. I only wore thin mechanics gloves but this is not for the faint of heart. Also beware if you have an 11-14 f150 and 21 pan bolts the factory torque spec is 80 inch lbs. i have a 7600+ page pdf factory manual. I also use a small hand suction pump and 3/8 clear plastic tube to get 3.5 wts out of pan before dropping. I then got another 3.2 qts out. I bought truck used at 110k and should have done this immediately. Thanks again I do have a stock height 4x4. My steel ramps are approximately 10 inches high.(not sure if the angle allows more fluid out) My local dealerships had best prices on filter and mercon lv by far. $34 for filter (they need last 8 of your fin as they have 4 variants apparently) $6.50 / qt LV. Thanks again
I got 5 out and put 5 in on my 13 Raptor 6.2. Drove it around and it was perfect when checked. Also depends on how long you let your vehicle sits before you start working on it. Longer it fits, the more transmission fluid that can drain back to the pan. It’s definitely more messy than hard. My Silverado was more of a pain. The exhaust crossover goes under the pan. I know it’s a few years old but Great job on the video.
I bought a fluid transfer hand pump from Trak-Auto for $10 that I used to fill the transfer case during a fluid change. Can also be used to fill the diffs. Why not use it to evacuate fluid from the trans via the fill hole before dropping the pan, and save yourself some of the mess? It looks like you could remove enough to get roughly 1/2 - 2/3 of the fluid out before pan removal.
Great job on the video! I did this job on my 2014 about 50k ago but watched your video as a reminder before doing it again. I actually drilled a hole in the low point of my pan last time and installed a drain plug so we’ll see how much of a mess I make this time. By the way, I have never drained as much fluid/oil out of anything as it takes going back in. 😂
I replaced mine at 50K miles and the original factory fill also seemed low by almost a quart. Upon refill it took at little under 7 quarts to get it just at the bottom of the dipstick's cold level hash marks with the engine running, shift lever cycled for 5 seconds in all gears but truck not driven / ATF fluid still cold. It makes much less of a mess if you syphon most of the old ATF out the dipstick hole and, wrap the exhaust crossover pipe with aluminum foil beforehand.
I would highly recommend changing the o rings on the Bulkhead connector sleeve, while you have the pan down. They like to leak and the only way you can change them is with the pan down.
Zenmaister: If you or someone else that knows the answer to my question sees this, could you provide a part number or other description of the O-Ring you mention. I'm going to be changing my trans fluid next week and I can't find anything listed under the description you mentioned. A Ford part number would be very helpful if you have it. And thanks for the tip. I found the answer to my own question and here it is for anyone else who needs the info: The Ford part number for just the O-rings is BL3Z7Z276A The Ford part number for the sleeve including the O-rings is 6L2Z-7G276-AA I buy most of my parts from RockAuto but the only sell and aftermarket sleeve (with O-Rings) made by Euro Parts. I'm not confident in that brand name so I'm sticking with the Motocraft part that you can get from Ford and other sources including Amazon. The O-Rings alone are a little harder to find but a Ford dealership might be the best bet or an online Ford parts dealer.
This s an excellent, very detailed video on changing the transmission fluid and filter on a 6R80 transmission. I did the same service on my 2008 Expedition and have now purchased a 2014 Navigator with 70K miles on it. I only use AMSOIL products which have proven excellent for me both on the engine and the transmission. Excellent point on draining the pan from the rear of the transmission and purchasing the oversized drain pan. Thanks for this very excellent video.
I have a 2010 F150 4X4 with towing package. It took all of 10 quarts to fill it at operating temp. I never checked the level before I drained it. I wasn't having any transmission problems prior to change. Still not having problems. Good preventive maintenance. Yep, it started running out at around 6 qts. I cranked it cycled through all the gears for a few brief seconds, then shut it of and added 2 more qts. Cranked it, put it in Drive with Ebrake on and left it while I cooked supper. Added two more quarts to get it halfway between fill marks. Checked it the next day after driving home from work. Still halfway on crosshatches. Invest in a set of Nomex arm sleeves to do this job. You will leave your skin on the cat otherwise. I already had a pair.
Well done! This is the best, clearest and most complete video I've seen on the subject. I'll be changing my fluid soon so I watched a bunch of videos. I really appreciate all the info you gave about fluid levels. I was trying to find out how much fluid was needed for a change (not total capacity) but this is the only video I found that mentioned it. But you went even further with your details about the level issues you had. Very useful information! Thanks!
Making a video makes every project take longer to do... so it's nice to hear that it helped the next person. Not sure why Ford make serving this transmission so difficult, but it's an unpleasant job for sure. Thanks for watching and for the supportive comments! Good luck on your project.
Hello Scruf's Garage👋🏾. Thanks for the video it was very helpful. I have a 2013 F-150 w/ the 6R80 transmission. When I dropped my pan I ended up getting 6.5 quarts out. When going back in I had to put a little over 8 quarts back in. 👍🏾
Glad the video was helpful. And based on comments of others, it seems very common to need to put in a little more than you got out. Not sure why, but it seems to be that way for everyone. Thanks for watching!
I thought I'd mention, I took mine to Ford service, as I was having a shudder issue on my 2016 F150 as well. I had them do a full transmission 'flush' and refill, of which took the shudder out completely. I also noticed in some video's, guys are adding the Lubegard Shudder fix, which is just a 2 oz product, which many swear by has fixed this issue. Thanks for the video! On edit- I see there are aftermarket 'dip stick's & flexible tubes' for vehicles, and noticed one fellow adding it to his F150 on RUclips, and thought this might be a worthy investment, having a normal dipstick again, plus the ability to add the fluid, and even easier if you have a pan with a bung to empty the fluid out! I haven't yet found one for my '16 F150 3.5 Ecoboost, but will continue looking.
If you have high miles, you should replace the trans cooler lines as a precaution. They're known to snap at the quick connection fittings, and you could fry your transmission.
Yes! Thank you for the video. That is the ticket 6 quarts in until it overflows…. Put plug back in and start up and shift through drive and reverse (pump will suck up fluid) then add the last 1.5 quarts. 7.5 quarts total for the refill
I agree. A drain plug and a normal fill point would make this so easy. I just disagree with Ford's concept of a "lifetime fill" transmission fluid that never needs to be serviced.
I found one of those after market transmission pans with the drain plug for my 2016 at our orielly auto parts store for $50 and on rock auto same pan as orielly’s for $30
A guy can also install a drain plug on the stock pan ,got mine off Amazon years ago and its never leaked. I’m told a filter change is necessary only on every other change, hence the drain plug.
BTW I bought one of those big drain pans at home depot for like$9.00. they have them in the cement section of the store, They are used for mixing cement & come in larger sizes, but I have the same one as in the video & it was perfect, it caught all of the oil.
A Little Tip...use a piece of 3/8 steel tubing,bent in like a u shape,and put in end of hose...this will make it easy peasy to pump in while at operating temps,and engine running.......!!!
I just changed the fluid on my 2014 f150 eco boost with the 6 speed and I drained out about 5 quarts and put back in 7 and added some of the instant shutter stop which fix my shutter problem
Lol! I’m in the same place. I did mine and I got about 5.7 quarts out and put 6 back in. Not sure if I should put that extra 1.5 this guy is talking about. The math doesn’t add up.
Great video. Thanks for the information on the quarts. I've seen large syringes on the web. I'll try that when I do mine. The syringe can also be use for a large variety of other jobs
09 5.4 6R80 @ 165k Did the drop pan procedure like you. Recovered 6.75 quarts And 7.25 quarts to refill. Ran the truck for 10min in drive. Shut it off and had to add 1/2 quart to full. Yes messy and time consuming but I consider it well worth it.
Amazon sells a F150 transmission (6R80) pan with a drain plug for only $40.00. And a Mighty Vac (only takes out 4qts. But jack up the rear to where the rest of the fluid is in the front to suck out another 2 qts. Leave 2 screws and That’s enough to put the mighty vac in between the case and pan to get another qt. Let it drip over 12 hrs and grab another qt. 8qts total. Install your new $40.00 pan from amazon with a Drain plug, cause next time you’ll grab 8.5 to 9 qts. Drive about 150 miles and drain & fill again. Use Amsoil Signature series atf fluid Blue Cap. What I have learned to get less burns. Before re fill, jack the passenger side font up or drive it on a ramp and you’ll be able to get all 9qts back in. I have a 2013 F150 with the 6.2 & 6R80 and I tow a lot, but your transmission will love you at 450,000 miles using Amsoil in Engine oil, transmission Oil/transfer case, front and rear diff oil, coolant and even break fluid.
I'm in the process of changing the filter and fluid on my 2015 F150 6R80 transmission with 90000 miles on. I'm the original owner and this is the first I've got into changing the fluid. I checked my fluid after completely warming it up and it was really low on fluid, I would guess at least a couple quarts.
Very interesting. That seems to be in line with what most people are finding. So I wonder if the factory fill from Ford was a little low, or the service procedure is high? I didn't observe any negative effects from following the service procedure for filling.
Liked you video. The only comment is I would have used a suction tool to suck the transmission fluid out thru the dip stick as much as you can before removing the pan. This way when you dropped the pan you won't have any fluid going onto the exhaust pipes.
Not shown in the video but I did try that to some extent. You can get some of the fluid but not all of it. So either way you're going to make a mess when the pan comes down. In the end, for me it was easier to just accept the mess and let the pan drain.
The electrical bulkhead connector housing at the right rear is a notorious leaker. Should replace that 6L2Z-7G276-AA seal housing if any sign of a leak if taking the pan down.
I got the same results as you did. Seems I dumped about 6 and had to add back 7.5 qts. I drove it and got it hot, checked the fluid hot and at idle. Came out just right! I also put the truck on ramps to level the frame, as it would be on a lift. Same year & transmission.
Here are some other possibilities: Get a 6 or 8 foot clear pvc tube with about a half-inch OD, and you can siphon most of the fluid out. You can get the siphon started using a shop vac. Drop the pan after the siphon is sucking air. To fill, thread the tube down from the engine compartment into the fill hole, then stick a funnel in the top end of the tube, and you can stand up while filling. To remove fluid, you can suck it out using a turkey baster stuck into the end of the tube.
2010 6R80 transmission fluid change: Weigh a new filter. Weigh the filter you remove. The difference would be the the volume of trans fluid you should expect to replace, after starting your F150. Like your videos. Thanks for your time, clear & concise video, with extra info re: aftermarket oil pan & drain plug
Good video and I'll add my experience on my 2009 and another WTF was Ford thinking. I bought my truck used and was parked in my driveway which is on an incline so the rear of the truck was lower than the front and fluid started leaking from the back right side of the tranny, come to find out it was leaking from the seal where the electrical block that the wires connect and go into the body of the trans. After some research I found that the ONLY way to change this out was from the inside where the holding clip for this is so needless to say forced fluid and filter change. I'm sure it needed the change but what I'm getting at is if you are planning to do this job I would recommend changing the elect block to avoid having to tear it all back apart if and when it starts leaking.
Great video. I just swapped fluid on my 2014 F150 5.0 coyote. I got roughly a little over 6 qts drained out (that includes fluid in old filter). Case started to overflow at 6.25 at a going back in. I didn't have a chance to check level but will in a day or two. Running smoother already.
Did mine a few days ago. 5 quarts is what mine took and I put the old fluid in the 5 empty bottles I used. Checked when hot and looks good. Not sure why some ppl say 7.5 quarts. Checking again in a few days but it seems to make sense to me 5 out 5 in. Mine is 2015 F150 5.0 with 49k on it. I'd never go 100k without fluid and filter change. Too many break in particles floating around!
Ford has issued a recall tech bulletin to help fix the funky shifting. You should check that out. Your video was very honest and thorough in its entirety and was most appreciated as I have the very same truck in year with the 5.4 and with a 6.5 box in Lariat version. Gotta change my oil too.
Oby-1 yes they did but it’s just a band aid to the problem ppl are seeing. They essentially retard the output shaft speed sensor so it won’t downshift on you while at highway speeds. The 6R80 in the F150’s have a lot of solenoids in them and they start to work funky when the fluid is filled with metal shavings and such. That’s why it’s important to not follow Fords recommendations as far as fluid change intervals. I only have 71k on my 13 F150 Screw but all the fluid in my truck has already been swapped twice over. It runs like the day I bought it.
I know this was three years ago. So you may not remember your comment about the rumbling while going slow in OD. My 6R80 does the commonly reported heart beat style rumble at 30 to 40 mph in OD, A light tap and coast, it stops a bit, very annoying, but usually have to push OD off. Did the fluid change make the your rumblr go away?
Yea, I had a slight shudder and the new fluid definitely helped. I also had a thunk noise at take-off, but that is an issue with the driveshaft I believe. I'm pretty sure there's a fix for that also, but I have since sold the truck, so I never got around to addressing that concern.
Fine video 👍 my new f250 was 1.75 quarts low from factory. Only had 7 k on it when I checked level . Glad I did . I'm beginning to wonder if Ford can do anything right
My Ford service manual (digital version) shows the torque spec for the trans pan bolts to be 106 lbs/in. My manual covers 2013 F150s with the same 6R80 transmission shown here. Ford probably changed the spec somewhere along the line and possibly for a good reason. BTW, even though people usually refer to torque specs as ft/lbs or in/lbs, technically it's actually lbs/ft or in/lbs. But just about everyone, including myself, refers to it incorrectly. I do it (knowing it's incorrect) because other people think it's supposed to be expressed that way. Lbs/ft and in/lbs is actually a measure of work, not torque. You can read how this works in a Wikipedia article or just do a search. So, say it correctly sometime and when someone tells you you got it backwards, bet them $10 bucks that you're right and they're wrong and then collect your $10. :-)
Torque units are N-m (Newton - meters) a force , measured in Newtons, applied by a lever arm at a distance , measured in meters. So the English equivalent would be lbs - in or lbs -ft (not lbs/in or lbs/ft)
Real big tip: just use that pump to get most of that fluid out of the panm through that hole, before you drop the pan, that way you don't lose any and you can pour it all out and measure what you drained, to possibly match what you put back in. Ideally when it's cold and you replace with cold. Even better tip: replace that plan with a drain plug version for the next time it's to be changed. Don't do this while the fluids are warm.
i wanna see how yall take the back bolts out with out stripping them i had a tuff time taking them off and torqueing them back down but i got it down i wanted to see but you skipped that part. To see if theres an easyer way
Man, I have a 2009 f150 4x4, with only 40.000k miles I bought new, it has the 6R80 trans, it's leaking from the right rear of the trans pan, I think it's the bulkhead sleeve leaking, I guess I'll have to take it to the dealership !
Currently doing my 07 Explorer 6r60 trans fluid pan drop, so far I've only got about 4.5qts out, that's not including the couple splash spills and oil soaked rags lol so I'd say maybe 5.5 to 6qts. Thanks for the awesome video
@@ScrufsGarage so I forgot to mention, I measured the fluid before I started the job, while in park and truck running the dip stick didnt show any fluid at all. I measure the fluid that came out and 6qts came out. I refilled it and it took 7qts until the fluid showed on the bottom of the hash. Truck shifts noticeably smoother now. Job was on a 6r60 which is similar to the 6r80. I added a drain plug to the pan so at every OCI I'll remove 2qts and add 2 qts
I have a 2011 Model ( 120k Miles ) that had the cluck occasionally and a slight vibration taking off ( around 50-60k miles ) . Ford had -- has a recall on the driveshaft for this. Drove it in and they replaced it with a new one. No more vibration or cluck. Good tips on changing the fluid, thanks . Going to try and do a flush removing the cooler line and using the transmission pump to flush it out-- also pumping the pan close to dry before removing. 2011 Ecoboost -- Nice Engine.
Yea, mine has developed the driveshaft/slipyoke clunk recently. So eventually I'll have to address that too. There's always something to keep me busy, haha.
@@ScrufsGarage Mine had the same thing and was searching searching searching all over the internet on how to get it fixed because it was so dang annoying. All I needed to do was drop the drive shaft and grease the splines. The clunk immediately was gone! Definitely try greasing the splines on your drive shaft before doing anything major. Took less than an hour. It's even easier if you can get it on a lift. Also be sure to mark your drive shaft before you take it out so you can put it back in the exact same way it came out.
good time to add a bulkhead type drain plug...Fords new "no DIY" vehicles suck,no trans dipstick or drain plug,no fuel filter .sad ,I love my truck except for these issues . Draining the pan and filter and adding 6 new quarts is nice but you are leaving behind about another 5-6 quarts in the system,its debatable if it needs to be flushed. Your fluid looks clean and magnet too..
Hello, just saw your video today and you mentioned a shudder in the transmission. I have an older 2006 F150 with 5.4 3v. I also had a shudder in my truck at lower rooms under a slight load. Turns out it was the spark plugs and 2 coils . Shudder gone truck runs great at 200,000 miles. Hope this helps
Michael Reardon, I have the same shudder issue . Curious did you have any misfire codes showing which cylinders you were having issues? I'm about to change my trans filter hoping it will fix the issue. let me know and thanks
I drained a full 5 quarts out & spilled about a 1/4 quart. I refilled with 5 quarts before overflow. I closed it up & drove around until the tranny temp was up to normal op temp. I rechecked level while hot & running & it was low, I added another 1.25 quarts in while hot & running & level was at the top of the crosshatch marks.
Thanks for the information and making the video. If I might add, that you explained a lot but some important info that would help people as the try to do this is data like what size wrench to remove the fill cap or what size socket to remove the pan bolts. Maybe filter part number too.
Hi there. Nice job. Nice presentation. One nice trick by another Tuber was stuffing aluminum foil in the back end to fill the gap and direct the flow to the catch can. Big question: Did the slapping on low gears stop?? My 2013 Ecoboost started slapping and making a clunk dropping in and out of overdrive, 6th, gear
I done the same on my 3.7 mustang that has the same transmission at 57k. I think its a great way to keep the trans in good standing. I bought a fill port so you dont have to drop the pan the 2nd time.
Good call. For a vehicle you're planning to keep and know you're going to need to service again, I think adding a pan with a drain port and fill tube kit is money well spent.
I have the 2012 Lincoln Navigator with the same transmission. A mechanic friend at the my local Ford/Lincoln dealer recommends that transmission be drained and filled at the first 30K miles and then every 60K miles there after. The design of this transmission means it is under constant negative vacuum pressure. That's the reason Ford didn't provide a dip stick. The only after market dip stick kit available in Canada is just under $500 and it just friction fits at the transmission with double O-rings and it's susceptible to air leaks and failure, so I wouldn't recommend it.
Not sure what came out, but I know it was low, because the torque converter was acting up due to the infamous leak around the electrical connector at the rear. I put about 7.5qts in and I still think it needs another half quart maybe. Extremely important to check it with the engine running. I was lying there on my back just staring at it dumbfounded, wondering why the entire dipstick was soaked in fluid. Truck started acting up again. Added another quart or so with the engine running and things smoothed out. It's not bad doing it at operating temp next to the cat with some good Mechanix gloves and care. I have Forscan on my laptop so I when I crawl back under to give it a little topoff I think I'm hook up the laptop and verify transmission temp. I think 190 is normal?
I did mine today. 2009 4.6L.. 193K, never been changed before. I got about a little over 5 quarts out. I put about 6ish back in, plus I changed the bulk head connector. I've had a very slow leak coming from that. Everything was pretty straight forward. I made a total rookie mistake tho, on the very last bolt after everything had been put back together I snapped off one of the corner bolts. I was rushing and I didn't break out a torque wrench like I knew I should've, I was using my impact and over did it. It's not leaking but I can't sleep at night knowing it's like that. I'll be fixing that after work tomorrow.
Yeah you should NVR use a impact to tighten bolts back up on Aluminum!! If you didnt snap the bolt head you could've stripped out the hole..these only take 8lbs of torque.
@@planetofthederps4490 I take the bolts out with an air impact wrench, but install the bolts with an electric screwdriver and then torque down with a torque wrench.
How did you get the rear bolts out so easily? My exhaust pipe on my 2016 XLT V8 from the left side crosses over right over the bottom of the trans pan, I'll need some kind of offset wrench but in your video you just breezed through so I wonder if your 5.4 had more clearance than I do.
@@ScrufsGarage Changing the rear diff fluid with the friction modifier will fix the shudder after about 500 miles. Its the limited slip making that shudder. Mine did the same and went away after the change
And extremely well thought out and well instructed video. You should make more videos on anything to do with vehicles... you talk very clearly, precisely, and you are easy to follow and understand...kudos to you my friend..
Great video. When you were at the 7 quarts and you checked it, were you at the lower hash mark area? The Mercon LV expands quite a bit from my understanding. So, I would think at the lower hash mark area would be good until driven and really got them it might go into the upper hash mark area. Thoughts? Thank you.
i know this video is old… but…I just did mine yesterday.. I was in the same boat as you.. mine tab has two hash marks and A and B I filled mine to the middle of first hash mark. Other videos I watched said go to first hash mark and it will expand🤷🏼♂️ idk so damn confusing….
Any long-term feedback on adding the 7-7.5 qts? Has it been the right level or too much? Very helpful thoughts in this video on the amount of fluid. I was confused because I got about 6qts out, then refilled with about 5.5qts and it overflowed. Then I started it and ran it through P > N > R > D and checked it while running, and the dipstick was dry, almost completely empty. I'm going to go back and add some more with it running and "fine tune it" per the service procedure. I'm a little nervous on overfilling it since I already nearly replaced what I took out.
I agree, it's very odd that there's a difference in the amount of fluid that comes out vs what's needed to get it back to full per the service procedure, but it seems to be the same experience with most people based on the comments I've seen. Last year I traded in the F150 on a Gladiator, but I can say that in the roughly 15k miles I put on the truck after changing the transmission fluid, I did not have any issues, and that the shudder issue I was experiencing was greatly improved.
@@ScrufsGarageThank you!! I just "topped off" while running the engine warm, shifting between gears and got another 1.5 qts in it for 7 qts total. It read as it should on the dipstick to the bottom/middle of the bottom set of hash marks.. So strange though
I changed the transmission fluid today in my 2014 Mustang GT with this trans. It went pretty smoothly. I put all four wheels up on ramps and still barely had room to get under the car. Prior to today, I had bought an extra Ford tranny pan and had a drain plug welded in and had also installed the Performance Automatic dipstick kit. I had also bought a huge drain pan that was big enough to cover the entire size of the pan so any messes were kept to a minimum. My car only had a little over 31,000 miles but I wanted to change it early based on FordTechMakuloco's recommendations in his video. I only got out about 5.75 quarts of fluid and that is with dumping the filter out and I ended up putting in 6 and it was right at the full mark on the PA dipstick. PA recommends only filling it up to about half way into the cross hatch area of their dipstick even though they say anywhere in the cross hatch is okay. I've left the fluid alone but may drain some out to get it to the halfway mark. The car shifts fine and seems slightly smoother than before. I let it idle for awhile and then took it for a drive to make sure the internal thermostat would be open when I checked the level. I used the Motorcraft Mercon LV and the correct Motorcraft filter. The dipstick made filling the tranny easier but kind of slow since occasionally the fluid would back up in the funnel and "burp" fluid out so you had to make sure you kept something to put over the funnel handy to avoid making a mess. All in all it went pretty smoothly and the old fluid wasn't that bad looking.
Sounds like you've got a great setup. Especially since you're car is so new, you'll really be able to get your monies worth out of the new pan and dipstick.
Yes, changing the fluid made an improvement in the shudder I was experiencing. Keep in mind you're only going to get back half the fluid out. So if your truck has 228k miles on the original fluid, it may be worth doing this a couple of times to get more of the old fluid out.
Did it stop the rumble? Mine just started the rumble strip sound only at around 50 normal driving when I'm on the gas at a steady speed on and off a second or two. Almost exactly if you hit the strip and move off it. If I accelerate through 50 it doesn't do it, only city driving around 50 on and off gas.
Yes, the fresh fluid definitely helped my shudder. It's worth noting that there's a common issue with a clunk/bump when first taking off that is related to the slip yoke. I don't have the details handy but I believe it's a fairly simple fix.
@@ScrufsGarage Ford sells grease and a new clamp to service the slip joint, will be doing this and trans service with new pan with drain plug $40.00 ebay with gasket too!
I was wondering why my 2010 only took 5 qts...no I gotta go warm that sucker up and add more...so pretty much if the trans is hot add fluid up to the 2nd set of hash marks?
Thanks for the information about the measuring gauge - I have not seen this before. Why is the oil not sucked out through this opening? It would be a lot cleaner than be submitted to the Ford contempt for their customers.
You can probably get some of the fluid out of the fill hole, but not all of it. You'll still have to drop the pan to get the rest out, and that still makes a bit of a mess. I was changing the filter also, so the pan had to come down regardless, so I didn't spend too much time trying to suck fluid out of the fill hole. With a bit more effort you might have better success?
Ive watched about 8 videos about this today, and this is by far the best. No one else mentioned how they filled the trans, and you did it in your garage, not on a lift and all that. Thank you!
That’s because Brian used to work for ford! Now he owns his own shop
well ok boss!@@code3responsevideos872
Greetings, I'm a mechanic of my vehicles, Yamaha YZ450, Harley Davidson, Ford Raptor and others. I wanted to share that the 6R80 transmission F150 when you change the filter and oil, the replace will takes 6 quarts approximately. To measure the oil level is important the engine need to be running. Move 5 second in each position P,R,N,D,M,2,1 then measure the oil level when reach the temperature of 190F.
The reason for measuring is because transmission oil expand for the additives at high temperature and cannot exceed the maximum level when is hot, because it damages other components for malfunction. Good luck!
If you want to make less mess and make it more easy to handle the pan use a suction pump and pump out the fluid in the pan before you drop the pan. I did this on a Ford Explorer recently and it makes it a much easier process.
i just did this on my truck yesterday. I wished I'd read this comment before dropping the pan. That's a very good idea!! i also used a round drain pan. Now I'm using a lot oil oil dry.
Well guess I’m going to follow lyle’s lead. Thanks for the wise approach.
First thing come to my mind !
that's what I did put a clear tube from dipstick hole dwn to a shop vac but run said clear tube into a gallon jug so u can see how much comes out run vac seal off vacum hole except for clear tube and it will fill up gallon jug untill pan empties...then drop pan and no mess... so easy guys,..
For those using this suction pump method to remove fluid before dropping the pan itself, HOW MUCH FLUID WERE YOU ABLE TO EXTRACT through the fill plug hole? How many quarts came out that way? Thanks!
Everyone keep in mind that there are 2 different filters for the 6R80. One has a 1 inch pickup tube and the other has 1.5 inch I believe. If you get the wrong one the transmission will not go into any gear. One part number is FT188 and the other is FT171. If you're not sure which one then pull out your old filter and use another car or have someone take you to the parts store and compare the length of the pickup tube. Most auto parts stores have both filters in stock so you can compare it with yours.
Great call out. Always confirm the part # for your specific application. From looking at the catalog data on both filter numbers, in general part FT-171 fits 2010 and older applications, and FT-188 fits 2011 and newer (it also fits the 2009/2010 Expedition). And always compare your old filter and new filter before installation to make sure they are identical.
I have found recently that NO auto parts stores have anything is stock. For some reason whatever I am looking for is never within 50 miles in stock.
Rockauto. If anything buy both.
@@ScrufsGarage Besides the Ford F-150 and the Expedition, Lincoln Navigator has the identical transmission.
There’s 3 filters…late 2016 has 2 tubes FT-200.
Thank you, best video on topic imo. I just did my 2011 f150 with ecoboost at 138,000. Trans shudder had just started. Problem solved with oil and filter change. I did mine twice (1 week apart as the fluid was shockingly dark). I needed a little over 7.5 qts of mercon lv. I put 7qts in and drove 20 minutes till reaching 199 on the trans app gauge. I then was careful to remove passenger front tire and blocked frame and a arm so truck was level. Checking with truck at full temp with an external fan blowing into wheel-well and laying on the driveway on a thin pad did the trick. I only wore thin mechanics gloves but this is not for the faint of heart. Also beware if you have an 11-14 f150 and 21 pan bolts the factory torque spec is 80 inch lbs. i have a 7600+ page pdf factory manual. I also use a small hand suction pump and 3/8 clear plastic tube to get 3.5 wts out of pan before dropping. I then got another 3.2 qts out. I bought truck used at 110k and should have done this immediately.
Thanks again
I do have a stock height 4x4.
My steel ramps are approximately 10 inches high.(not sure if the angle allows more fluid out)
My local dealerships had best prices on filter and mercon lv by far. $34 for filter (they need last 8 of your fin as they have 4 variants apparently) $6.50 / qt LV.
Thanks again
Thanks for sharing your process. I completely agree, I should have changed my fluid earlier too! Thanks for watching!
That is exactly what I have. Thank you for your comment with info.
I got 5 out and put 5 in on my 13 Raptor 6.2. Drove it around and it was perfect when checked. Also depends on how long you let your vehicle sits before you start working on it. Longer it fits, the more transmission fluid that can drain back to the pan.
It’s definitely more messy than hard. My Silverado was more of a pain. The exhaust crossover goes under the pan.
I know it’s a few years old but Great job on the video.
I bought a fluid transfer hand pump from Trak-Auto for $10 that I used to fill the transfer case during a fluid change. Can also be used to fill the diffs. Why not use it to evacuate fluid from the trans via the fill hole before dropping the pan, and save yourself some of the mess? It looks like you could remove enough to get roughly 1/2 - 2/3 of the fluid out before pan removal.
Great job on the video! I did this job on my 2014 about 50k ago but watched your video as a reminder before doing it again. I actually drilled a hole in the low point of my pan last time and installed a drain plug so we’ll see how much of a mess I make this time. By the way, I have never drained as much fluid/oil out of anything as it takes going back in. 😂
I replaced mine at 50K miles and the original factory fill also seemed low by almost a quart. Upon refill it took at little under 7 quarts to get it just at the bottom of the dipstick's cold level hash marks with the engine running, shift lever cycled for 5 seconds in all gears but truck not driven / ATF fluid still cold.
It makes much less of a mess if you syphon most of the old ATF out the dipstick hole and, wrap the exhaust crossover pipe with aluminum foil beforehand.
Pump and foil are both excellent ideas!
I would highly recommend changing the o rings on the Bulkhead connector sleeve, while you have the pan down. They like to leak and the only way you can change them is with the pan down.
Zenmaister: If you or someone else that knows the answer to my question sees this, could you provide a part number or other description of the O-Ring you mention. I'm going to be changing my trans fluid next week and I can't find anything listed under the description you mentioned. A Ford part number would be very helpful if you have it. And thanks for the tip.
I found the answer to my own question and here it is for anyone else who needs the info:
The Ford part number for just the O-rings is BL3Z7Z276A
The Ford part number for the sleeve including the O-rings is 6L2Z-7G276-AA
I buy most of my parts from RockAuto but the only sell and aftermarket sleeve (with O-Rings) made by Euro Parts. I'm not confident in that brand name so I'm sticking with the Motocraft part that you can get from Ford and other sources including Amazon. The O-Rings alone are a little harder to find but a Ford dealership might be the best bet or an online Ford parts dealer.
@@bmfilmnut was it hard to change the whole sleeve
What sleeve are you referring to about changing the o rings?
@@jacob8660 Its the sleave that all the wiring goes through to the inside of the trans. Sometimes the new sleave already comes with the orings on it.
@@bmfilmnut I belive its BL3Z-7Z276-A
This s an excellent, very detailed video on changing the transmission fluid and filter on a 6R80 transmission. I did the same service on my 2008 Expedition and have now purchased a 2014 Navigator with 70K miles on it. I only use AMSOIL products which have proven excellent for me both on the engine and the transmission. Excellent point on draining the pan from the rear of the transmission and purchasing the oversized drain pan. Thanks for this very excellent video.
Happy to share and glad to hear it was helpful. Thanks for the kind words and for watching!
I have a 2010 F150 4X4 with towing package. It took all of 10 quarts to fill it at operating temp. I never checked the level before I drained it. I wasn't having any transmission problems prior to change. Still not having problems. Good preventive maintenance. Yep, it started running out at around 6 qts. I cranked it cycled through all the gears for a few brief seconds, then shut it of and added 2 more qts. Cranked it, put it in Drive with Ebrake on and left it while I cooked supper. Added two more quarts to get it halfway between fill marks. Checked it the next day after driving home from work. Still halfway on crosshatches. Invest in a set of Nomex arm sleeves to do this job. You will leave your skin on the cat otherwise. I already had a pair.
How much did you add after you drove home from work
Well done! This is the best, clearest and most complete video I've seen on the subject. I'll be changing my fluid soon so I watched a bunch of videos. I really appreciate all the info you gave about fluid levels. I was trying to find out how much fluid was needed for a change (not total capacity) but this is the only video I found that mentioned it. But you went even further with your details about the level issues you had. Very useful information! Thanks!
Making a video makes every project take longer to do... so it's nice to hear that it helped the next person. Not sure why Ford make serving this transmission so difficult, but it's an unpleasant job for sure. Thanks for watching and for the supportive comments! Good luck on your project.
Hello Scruf's Garage👋🏾. Thanks for the video it was very helpful. I have a 2013 F-150 w/ the 6R80 transmission. When I dropped my pan I ended up getting 6.5 quarts out. When going back in I had to put a little over 8 quarts back in. 👍🏾
Glad the video was helpful. And based on comments of others, it seems very common to need to put in a little more than you got out. Not sure why, but it seems to be that way for everyone. Thanks for watching!
I thought I'd mention, I took mine to Ford service, as I was having a shudder issue on my 2016 F150 as well. I had them do a full transmission 'flush' and refill, of which took the shudder out completely. I also noticed in some video's, guys are adding the Lubegard Shudder fix, which is just a 2 oz product, which many swear by has fixed this issue. Thanks for the video! On edit- I see there are aftermarket 'dip stick's & flexible tubes' for vehicles, and noticed one fellow adding it to his F150 on RUclips, and thought this might be a worthy investment, having a normal dipstick again, plus the ability to add the fluid, and even easier if you have a pan with a bung to empty the fluid out! I haven't yet found one for my '16 F150 3.5 Ecoboost, but will continue looking.
If you have high miles, you should replace the trans cooler lines as a precaution. They're known to snap at the quick connection fittings, and you could fry your transmission.
Yes! Thank you for the video. That is the ticket 6 quarts in until it overflows…. Put plug back in and start up and shift through drive and reverse (pump will suck up fluid) then add the last 1.5 quarts. 7.5 quarts total for the refill
Thanks for the video. Just did mine and next I take that pan off I am going to add a drain plug as it would make it so easy.
I agree. A drain plug and a normal fill point would make this so easy. I just disagree with Ford's concept of a "lifetime fill" transmission fluid that never needs to be serviced.
I found one of those after market transmission pans with the drain plug for my 2016 at our orielly auto parts store for $50 and on rock auto same pan as orielly’s for $30
Nice! A drain plug would make this sooo much easier. Do you have a part #? I sold my truck but others will probably be interested.
A guy can also install a drain plug on the stock pan ,got mine off Amazon years ago and its never leaked. I’m told a filter change is necessary only on every other change, hence the drain plug.
BTW I bought one of those big drain pans at home depot for like$9.00. they have them in the cement section of the store, They are used for mixing cement & come in larger sizes, but I have the same one as in the video & it was perfect, it caught all of the oil.
Yes! Those large drain pans are so handy. I use mine all the time. Money well spent.
Great idea -thanks
Thanks. Was searching online for one.
A Little Tip...use a piece of 3/8 steel tubing,bent in like a u shape,and put in end of hose...this will make it easy peasy to pump in while at operating temps,and engine running.......!!!
I just changed the fluid on my 2014 f150 eco boost with the 6 speed and I drained out about 5 quarts and put back in 7 and added some of the instant shutter stop which fix my shutter problem
Lol! I’m in the same place. I did mine and I got about 5.7 quarts out and put 6 back in. Not sure if I should put that extra 1.5 this guy is talking about. The math doesn’t add up.
Great video. Thanks for the information on the quarts. I've seen large syringes on the web. I'll try that when I do mine. The syringe can also be use for a large variety of other jobs
The old filter holds some fluid too
Did you put the truck in gear, reverse and then drive after filling the transmission at 6 and a half qts?
Best video I’ve watched on changing the fluid. Gave me the incentive to do it myself in my garage. Thanks!
09 5.4 6R80 @ 165k
Did the drop pan procedure like you.
Recovered 6.75 quarts
And 7.25 quarts to refill.
Ran the truck for 10min in drive. Shut it off and had to add 1/2 quart to full.
Yes messy and time consuming but I consider it well worth it.
Amazon sells a F150 transmission (6R80) pan with a drain plug for only $40.00. And a Mighty Vac (only takes out 4qts. But jack up the rear to where the rest of the fluid is in the front to suck out another 2 qts. Leave 2 screws and That’s enough to put the mighty vac in between the case and pan to get another qt. Let it drip over 12 hrs and grab another qt. 8qts total. Install your new $40.00 pan from amazon with a Drain plug, cause next time you’ll grab 8.5 to 9 qts. Drive about 150 miles and drain & fill again. Use Amsoil Signature series atf fluid Blue Cap. What I have learned to get less burns. Before re fill, jack the passenger side font up or drive it on a ramp and you’ll be able to get all 9qts back in. I have a 2013 F150 with the 6.2 & 6R80 and I tow a lot, but your transmission will love you at 450,000 miles using Amsoil in Engine oil, transmission Oil/transfer case, front and rear diff oil, coolant and even break fluid.
Good video. I'd recommend to place some aluminum foil over the exhaust piping to keep it free of oil.
I'm in the process of changing the filter and fluid on my 2015 F150 6R80 transmission with 90000 miles on. I'm the original owner and this is the first I've got into changing the fluid. I checked my fluid after completely warming it up and it was really low on fluid, I would guess at least a couple quarts.
Very interesting. That seems to be in line with what most people are finding. So I wonder if the factory fill from Ford was a little low, or the service procedure is high? I didn't observe any negative effects from following the service procedure for filling.
@@ScrufsGarage I ended up adding 7.5 quarts. Thanks for the video..
You can use tin foil over crossover, and it will help guide drain and keep it cleaner
They make a dip stick kit also, mounts up by firewall, can fill it from that, think it sells for around 80.00
Where at?
Liked you video. The only comment is I would have used a suction tool to suck the transmission fluid out thru the dip stick as much as you can before removing the pan. This way when you dropped the pan you won't have any fluid going onto the exhaust pipes.
Not shown in the video but I did try that to some extent. You can get some of the fluid but not all of it. So either way you're going to make a mess when the pan comes down. In the end, for me it was easier to just accept the mess and let the pan drain.
The electrical bulkhead connector housing at the right rear is a notorious leaker. Should replace that 6L2Z-7G276-AA seal housing if any sign of a leak if taking the pan down.
I got 5 out ad five in , so far its good will check it later this week
I got the same results as you did. Seems I dumped about 6 and had to add back 7.5 qts. I drove it and got it hot, checked the fluid hot and at idle. Came out just right! I also put the truck on ramps to level the frame, as it would be on a lift. Same year & transmission.
Awesome, glad it worked out well for you. I still find it so odd that 6qts come out, but 7.5 go back in. But it seems to be the same for everybody.
Oil was probably changed previously at Ford dealership,they skimped on amount of oil used to refill!
Oh by the way.great video.going to do this on my brother's transit.great info,well done.
Here are some other possibilities: Get a 6 or 8 foot clear pvc tube with about a half-inch OD, and you can siphon most of the fluid out. You can get the siphon started using a shop vac. Drop the pan after the siphon is sucking air. To fill, thread the tube down from the engine compartment into the fill hole, then stick a funnel in the top end of the tube, and you can stand up while filling. To remove fluid, you can suck it out using a turkey baster stuck into the end of the tube.
2010 6R80 transmission fluid change: Weigh a new filter. Weigh the filter you remove. The difference would be the the volume of trans fluid you should expect to replace, after starting your F150. Like your videos. Thanks for your time, clear & concise video, with extra info re: aftermarket oil pan & drain plug
Good video and I'll add my experience on my 2009 and another WTF was Ford thinking. I bought my truck used and was parked in my driveway which is on an incline so the rear of the truck was lower than the front and fluid started leaking from the back right side of the tranny, come to find out it was leaking from the seal where the electrical block that the wires connect and go into the body of the trans. After some research I found that the ONLY way to change this out was from the inside where the holding clip for this is so needless to say forced fluid and filter change. I'm sure it needed the change but what I'm getting at is if you are planning to do this job I would recommend changing the elect block to avoid having to tear it all back apart if and when it starts leaking.
Great video. I just swapped fluid on my 2014 F150 5.0 coyote. I got roughly a little over 6 qts drained out (that includes fluid in old filter). Case started to overflow at 6.25 at a going back in.
I didn't have a chance to check level but will in a day or two. Running smoother already.
Did mine a few days ago. 5 quarts is what mine took and I put the old fluid in the 5 empty bottles I used. Checked when hot and looks good. Not sure why some ppl say 7.5 quarts. Checking again in a few days but it seems to make sense to me 5 out 5 in. Mine is 2015 F150 5.0 with 49k on it. I'd never go 100k without fluid and filter change. Too many break in particles floating around!
Ford has issued a recall tech bulletin to help fix the funky shifting. You should check that out.
Your video was very honest and thorough in its entirety and was most appreciated as I have the very same truck in year with the 5.4 and with a 6.5 box in Lariat version. Gotta change my oil too.
Oby-1 yes they did but it’s just a band aid to the problem ppl are seeing. They essentially retard the output shaft speed sensor so it won’t downshift on you while at highway speeds. The 6R80 in the F150’s have a lot of solenoids in them and they start to work funky when the fluid is filled with metal shavings and such. That’s why it’s important to not follow Fords recommendations as far as fluid change intervals. I only have 71k on my 13 F150 Screw but all the fluid in my truck has already been swapped twice over. It runs like the day I bought it.
I know this was three years ago. So you may not remember your comment about the rumbling while going slow in OD. My 6R80 does the commonly reported heart beat style rumble at 30 to 40 mph in OD, A light tap and coast, it stops a bit, very annoying, but usually have to push OD off. Did the fluid change make the your rumblr go away?
Yea, I had a slight shudder and the new fluid definitely helped. I also had a thunk noise at take-off, but that is an issue with the driveshaft I believe. I'm pretty sure there's a fix for that also, but I have since sold the truck, so I never got around to addressing that concern.
Fine video 👍 my new f250 was 1.75 quarts low from factory. Only had 7 k on it when I checked level . Glad I did . I'm beginning to wonder if Ford can do anything right
My Ford service manual (digital version) shows the torque spec for the trans pan bolts to be 106 lbs/in. My manual covers 2013 F150s with the same 6R80 transmission shown here. Ford probably changed the spec somewhere along the line and possibly for a good reason.
BTW, even though people usually refer to torque specs as ft/lbs or in/lbs, technically it's actually lbs/ft or in/lbs. But just about everyone, including myself, refers to it incorrectly. I do it (knowing it's incorrect) because other people think it's supposed to be expressed that way. Lbs/ft and in/lbs is actually a measure of work, not torque. You can read how this works in a Wikipedia article or just do a search. So, say it correctly sometime and when someone tells you you got it backwards, bet them $10 bucks that you're right and they're wrong and then collect your $10. :-)
Lol. You mean lbs/in is correct. Edit your post
Torque units are N-m (Newton - meters) a force , measured in Newtons, applied by a lever arm at a distance , measured in meters. So the English equivalent would be lbs - in or lbs -ft (not lbs/in or lbs/ft)
Real big tip: just use that pump to get most of that fluid out of the panm through that hole, before you drop the pan, that way you don't lose any and you can pour it all out and measure what you drained, to possibly match what you put back in. Ideally when it's cold and you replace with cold.
Even better tip: replace that plan with a drain plug version for the next time it's to be changed.
Don't do this while the fluids are warm.
Great video, very informative. Thank you!
System takes 13.1L. Pan hold 4.5 or so. Converter holds ~9. Least on the T150-350 3.7 series 6R80s. :)
i wanna see how yall take the back bolts out with out stripping them i had a tuff time taking them off and torqueing them back down but i got it down i wanted to see but you skipped that part. To see if theres an easyer way
Man, I have a 2009 f150 4x4, with only 40.000k miles I bought new, it has the 6R80 trans, it's leaking from the right rear of the trans pan, I think it's the bulkhead sleeve leaking, I guess I'll have to take it to the dealership !
Currently doing my 07 Explorer 6r60 trans fluid pan drop, so far I've only got about 4.5qts out, that's not including the couple splash spills and oil soaked rags lol so I'd say maybe 5.5 to 6qts. Thanks for the awesome video
Thanks for watching. Glad the video was helpful/
@@ScrufsGarage so I forgot to mention, I measured the fluid before I started the job, while in park and truck running the dip stick didnt show any fluid at all. I measure the fluid that came out and 6qts came out. I refilled it and it took 7qts until the fluid showed on the bottom of the hash. Truck shifts noticeably smoother now. Job was on a 6r60 which is similar to the 6r80. I added a drain plug to the pan so at every OCI I'll remove 2qts and add 2 qts
I have a 2011 Model ( 120k Miles ) that had the cluck occasionally and a slight vibration taking off ( around 50-60k miles ) . Ford had -- has a recall on the driveshaft for this. Drove it in and they replaced it with a new one. No more vibration or cluck. Good tips on changing the fluid, thanks . Going to try and do a flush removing the cooler line and using the transmission pump to flush it out-- also pumping the pan close to dry before removing. 2011 Ecoboost -- Nice Engine.
Yea, mine has developed the driveshaft/slipyoke clunk recently. So eventually I'll have to address that too. There's always something to keep me busy, haha.
@@ScrufsGarage Mine had the same thing and was searching searching searching all over the internet on how to get it fixed because it was so dang annoying. All I needed to do was drop the drive shaft and grease the splines. The clunk immediately was gone! Definitely try greasing the splines on your drive shaft before doing anything major. Took less than an hour. It's even easier if you can get it on a lift. Also be sure to mark your drive shaft before you take it out so you can put it back in the exact same way it came out.
@@ScrufsGarage there is a TSB and a clunk kit, grease and boot clamp from ford for 15.00.
For the clunk noise also check the leaf spring isolators, mine were totally worn away.
good time to add a bulkhead type drain plug...Fords new "no DIY" vehicles suck,no trans dipstick or drain plug,no fuel filter .sad ,I love my truck except for these issues . Draining the pan and filter and adding 6 new quarts is nice but you are leaving behind about another 5-6 quarts in the system,its debatable if it needs to be flushed. Your fluid looks clean and magnet too..
Hello, just saw your video today and you mentioned a shudder in the transmission. I have an older 2006 F150 with 5.4 3v. I also had a shudder in my truck at lower rooms under a slight load. Turns out it was the spark plugs and 2 coils . Shudder gone truck runs great at 200,000 miles. Hope this helps
Good tip for anyone trying to solve a shudder. It could be things other than just the transmission. Thanks for sharing.
Michael Reardon, I have the same shudder issue . Curious did you have any misfire codes showing which cylinders you were having issues? I'm about to change my trans filter hoping it will fix the issue. let me know and thanks
I bought the dorman pan with a drain plug. I drilled a hole in the old pan and drained it hardly any spill , drilled it the lowest point .
Nice. The Dorman pan wasn't out when I did mine, but that's definitely the way to go. Glad to hear the project went well for you.
This is a great video!! I will be doing this fluid change ASAP and thanks for being clear and thorough much appreciated 👍
Thanks for watching! Best of luck on your fluid change.
I drained a full 5 quarts out & spilled about a 1/4 quart. I refilled with 5 quarts before overflow. I closed it up & drove around until the tranny temp was up to normal op temp. I rechecked level while hot & running & it was low, I added another 1.25 quarts in while hot & running & level was at the top of the crosshatch marks.
Thanks for the information and making the video. If I might add, that you explained a lot but some important info that would help people as the try to do this is data like what size wrench to remove the fill cap or what size socket to remove the pan bolts. Maybe filter part number too.
Fill cap is 19mm. Pan bolts are 8mm. I think he mentioned the sizes but I could be mistaken.
3/4" socket on mjne
Hi there. Nice job. Nice presentation. One nice trick by another Tuber was stuffing aluminum foil in the back end to fill the gap and direct the flow to the catch can.
Big question: Did the slapping on low gears stop??
My 2013 Ecoboost started slapping and making a clunk dropping in and out of overdrive, 6th, gear
I done the same on my 3.7 mustang that has the same transmission at 57k. I think its a great way to keep the trans in good standing. I bought a fill port so you dont have to drop the pan the 2nd time.
Good call. For a vehicle you're planning to keep and know you're going to need to service again, I think adding a pan with a drain port and fill tube kit is money well spent.
@@ScrufsGarage Thats what I did. Amazon $34 for the pan with a drain. I did it on a F350 and it made the job so much tolerable.
If you’re truck is not level when refilling you can’t really get a true dip stick reading.assuming you only lifted the front half.
your video is absolutely satisfactory. keep up the good work.
Thank you. I did not even no where the dip stick was. I will try changing oil.
Glad to hear the video was helpful!
I have the 2012 Lincoln Navigator with the same transmission. A mechanic friend at the my local Ford/Lincoln dealer recommends that transmission be drained and filled at the first 30K miles and then every 60K miles there after. The design of this transmission means it is under constant negative vacuum pressure. That's the reason Ford didn't provide a dip stick.
The only after market dip stick kit available in Canada is just under $500 and it just friction fits at the transmission with double O-rings and it's susceptible to air leaks and failure, so I wouldn't recommend it.
Thanks for making this video. It helped me a lot!
Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Not sure what came out, but I know it was low, because the torque converter was acting up due to the infamous leak around the electrical connector at the rear. I put about 7.5qts in and I still think it needs another half quart maybe. Extremely important to check it with the engine running. I was lying there on my back just staring at it dumbfounded, wondering why the entire dipstick was soaked in fluid. Truck started acting up again. Added another quart or so with the engine running and things smoothed out. It's not bad doing it at operating temp next to the cat with some good Mechanix gloves and care. I have Forscan on my laptop so I when I crawl back under to give it a little topoff I think I'm hook up the laptop and verify transmission temp. I think 190 is normal?
Thank you! This a good video very explanatory, I enjoyed watching it!!
Happy to hear it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
I did mine today. 2009 4.6L.. 193K, never been changed before. I got about a little over 5 quarts out. I put about 6ish back in, plus I changed the bulk head connector. I've had a very slow leak coming from that. Everything was pretty straight forward. I made a total rookie mistake tho, on the very last bolt after everything had been put back together I snapped off one of the corner bolts. I was rushing and I didn't break out a torque wrench like I knew I should've, I was using my impact and over did it. It's not leaking but I can't sleep at night knowing it's like that. I'll be fixing that after work tomorrow.
Yeah you should NVR use a impact to tighten bolts back up on Aluminum!! If you didnt snap the bolt head you could've stripped out the hole..these only take 8lbs of torque.
@@planetofthederps4490 I take the bolts out with an air impact wrench, but install the bolts with an electric screwdriver and then torque down with a torque wrench.
How did you get the rear bolts out so easily? My exhaust pipe on my 2016 XLT V8 from the left side crosses over right over the bottom of the trans pan, I'll need some kind of offset wrench but in your video you just breezed through so I wonder if your 5.4 had more clearance than I do.
What did you do
Excelente video, muy bien explicado, gracias, un saludo desde Chile
Glad it was helpful!
Did your shuttering go away? Just did mine had a slip on 3rd gear, fluid was low before I began. But it’s great now, awesome video thanks man.
Yes, it definitely helped my shuddering. Glad to hear the video was useful! Thanks for watching.
@@ScrufsGarage Changing the rear diff fluid with the friction modifier will fix the shudder after about 500 miles. Its the limited slip making that shudder. Mine did the same and went away after the change
@@tlalexander3friction modifier only?
And extremely well thought out and well instructed video. You should make more videos on anything to do with vehicles... you talk very clearly, precisely, and you are easy to follow and understand...kudos to you my friend..
Thanks for the encouragement, much appreciated. And glad the video was helpful too. thanks for watching!
Great video. Thank you.
Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching 👍
And, yes! I did that oil and pan change successfully and with no issues at all. Thank you, once again.
"it's a lifetime fill. The laws of entropy don't apply here. See you in 6-8 years"- Ford
Great video. When you were at the 7 quarts and you checked it, were you at the lower hash mark area? The Mercon LV expands quite a bit from my understanding. So, I would think at the lower hash mark area would be good until driven and really got them it might go into the upper hash mark area. Thoughts? Thank you.
Just ran into this problem myself, put 5 quarts and thinking it’s already full and didn’t know that to put 7.5 quarts in you need the truck running
i know this video is old… but…I just did mine yesterday.. I was in the same boat as you.. mine tab has two hash marks and A and B I filled mine to the middle of first hash mark. Other videos I watched said go to first hash mark and it will expand🤷🏼♂️ idk so damn confusing….
Great video, thanks. Did the transmission oil change fix your shifting issues?
Yes, it was significantly improved.
Couldn't you have syphoned some of the fluid out before removing the pan with a small pump or syphon?
Any long-term feedback on adding the 7-7.5 qts? Has it been the right level or too much? Very helpful thoughts in this video on the amount of fluid. I was confused because I got about 6qts out, then refilled with about 5.5qts and it overflowed. Then I started it and ran it through P > N > R > D and checked it while running, and the dipstick was dry, almost completely empty. I'm going to go back and add some more with it running and "fine tune it" per the service procedure. I'm a little nervous on overfilling it since I already nearly replaced what I took out.
I agree, it's very odd that there's a difference in the amount of fluid that comes out vs what's needed to get it back to full per the service procedure, but it seems to be the same experience with most people based on the comments I've seen. Last year I traded in the F150 on a Gladiator, but I can say that in the roughly 15k miles I put on the truck after changing the transmission fluid, I did not have any issues, and that the shudder issue I was experiencing was greatly improved.
@@ScrufsGarageThank you!! I just "topped off" while running the engine warm, shifting between gears and got another 1.5 qts in it for 7 qts total. It read as it should on the dipstick to the bottom/middle of the bottom set of hash marks.. So strange though
I changed the transmission fluid today in my 2014 Mustang GT with this trans. It went pretty smoothly. I put all four wheels up on ramps and still barely had room to get under the car. Prior to today, I had bought an extra Ford tranny pan and had a drain plug welded in and had also installed the Performance Automatic dipstick kit. I had also bought a huge drain pan that was big enough to cover the entire size of the pan so any messes were kept to a minimum. My car only had a little over 31,000 miles but I wanted to change it early based on FordTechMakuloco's recommendations in his video. I only got out about 5.75 quarts of fluid and that is with dumping the filter out and I ended up putting in 6 and it was right at the full mark on the PA dipstick. PA recommends only filling it up to about half way into the cross hatch area of their dipstick even though they say anywhere in the cross hatch is okay. I've left the fluid alone but may drain some out to get it to the halfway mark. The car shifts fine and seems slightly smoother than before. I let it idle for awhile and then took it for a drive to make sure the internal thermostat would be open when I checked the level. I used the Motorcraft Mercon LV and the correct Motorcraft filter. The dipstick made filling the tranny easier but kind of slow since occasionally the fluid would back up in the funnel and "burp" fluid out so you had to make sure you kept something to put over the funnel handy to avoid making a mess. All in all it went pretty smoothly and the old fluid wasn't that bad looking.
Sounds like you've got a great setup. Especially since you're car is so new, you'll really be able to get your monies worth out of the new pan and dipstick.
Very informative video. Did it solve the shuttering problem? I have a 2010 xlt with 228k, it started shuttering on me
Yes, changing the fluid made an improvement in the shudder I was experiencing. Keep in mind you're only going to get back half the fluid out. So if your truck has 228k miles on the original fluid, it may be worth doing this a couple of times to get more of the old fluid out.
Wow, that fluid looks like old used engine oil. Have you done this again on this truck or?
Hey Scruf. Did changing filter and fluid eliminate the TC shutter issue? Thanks.
Yes, for me it made a noticeable improvement.
Couldn’t you also suck fluid out from the fill hole and replace with the same amount you took out without dropping the pan?
I suppose you could. However it’s probably best to change the filter as well
This was likely covered earlier, but what is the point of including a ‘cold’ measurement level, if everything has to be measured when running/hot?
Did it stop the rumble? Mine just started the rumble strip sound only at around 50 normal driving when I'm on the gas at a steady speed on and off a second or two. Almost exactly if you hit the strip and move off it. If I accelerate through 50 it doesn't do it, only city driving around 50 on and off gas.
Did changing the fluid stop the issue you were having with the transmission not shifting correctly?
Did it fix your take off shudder? My 2014 is starting to shudder when first giving to some gas! Good video. 👍👍🔧
Yes, the fresh fluid definitely helped my shudder. It's worth noting that there's a common issue with a clunk/bump when first taking off that is related to the slip yoke. I don't have the details handy but I believe it's a fairly simple fix.
@@ScrufsGarage Ford sells grease and a new clamp to service the slip joint, will be doing this and trans service with new pan with drain plug $40.00 ebay with gasket too!
How do I get the old fluid out of the torque converter?
2012 Ford F150. Why are my bolts all different sizes?
I was wondering why my 2010 only took 5 qts...no I gotta go warm that sucker up and add more...so pretty much if the trans is hot add fluid up to the 2nd set of hash marks?
Thanks for the information about the measuring gauge - I have not seen this before. Why is the oil not sucked out through this opening? It would be a lot cleaner than be submitted to the Ford contempt for their customers.
You can probably get some of the fluid out of the fill hole, but not all of it. You'll still have to drop the pan to get the rest out, and that still makes a bit of a mess. I was changing the filter also, so the pan had to come down regardless, so I didn't spend too much time trying to suck fluid out of the fill hole. With a bit more effort you might have better success?
Nice video. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful! thanks for watching
New to me truck and your video on the steps was perfect
😊 20:25
Awesome, glad it was helpful. Congrats on the new truck
Thanks for the video , now I know how to do it.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
Excellent. Ty
IM HAVING MY 2013 F150 ECO 4X4 DONE TOMORROW AT MOM & POP SHOP. I HAVE 95K MILES.
How did it go? Did the trans slip afterwards or any negative effects. Gonna be doing this for the first time(that I know of) in my 90k 6r80
Did it fix your shudder issue ? I have a 09 expedition that downshifts very hard from 2nd to 1st