Ford F-150 10R80 Transmission Service and PPE Pan Upgrade
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- Don't neglect your transmission! In this video we walk you through the maintenance process for your 10R80 transmission. We also change the fluid in the transfer case and add a custom aluminum transmission pan from PPE - Pacific Performance Engineering. These steps are very similar for 10R60 and 10R140 transmissions.
Links: -
PPE Transmission pan - ppepower.com/
Multi Use Transfer Pump - Hand Siphon Pump - amzn.to/3Zr7i5e
Ford 7T4Z-7Z302-A - SEAL - amzn.to/4dcCYhQ
Ford Motorcraft - Transmission Filter (FT202) amzn.to/3XKFRlH
MERCON ULV Transmission Fluid - parts.ford.com...
MERCON UV "Transfer Case Fluid" (do not use in transmission!) - parts.ford.com...
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*Do not attempt anything you see in my videos. Do not try any of this at home. Do not try any of this when not at home. Don't do drugs. No animals were harmed making this content. Jesus Saves!
I own a 2019 raptor bought a deep pan from PPE but before installing it on my 10r80 I happened to read online about a clearance problem with the pan and the pink plastic frt. pump. And I am so glad I read that because I measured my pump to pan clearance, and it would have damaged my pump. The person who was unlucky enough to have got it installed ruined his frt. pump and pumped pink plastic threw out the transmission. I called PPE there familiar with the problem and offered to give me my money back or exchange with their new part number pan, they seem to sell both new and old deep pans I don't understand that. I could not find the receipt and was just glad I didn't ruin my trans. I threw that beautiful new pan in the scrap pile looks funny laying in that pile. Bought a Mishimoto deep pan plenty of clearance. Be careful those early PPE pans are out there.
Good info
Great info 18 f150 xl here and looking to upgrade pan
So PPE would not exchange your pan because you lost the receipt? I'll be checking back on this to see if they've answered your comment and if not I won't be buying anymore PPE products
@@derekflanary6811$300 dollar pan $5000 dollar trans fix I am so happy I didn't use the PPE pan I wont be buying any PPE products and yes they asked for a receipt not worth my time to pursue. Just a warning about that pan that's it
I bought this pan last week and still hadnt bought the filter and seal etc. Thank you for this video! Liked and subscribed
The hottest ive ever seen my trans is 195 degrees without a trailer behind it. 2017 3.5 ecoboost. Powertrain is completely stock im on a 6 inch lift and 35's. Im in central Florida, it gets pretty hot during the summer. Great info I will be subscribing.
I’ve gotten mine up to 230 offroad. Had to pull over and let it sit for a while. 23’ Tremor 5.0 w/ 35s
"im on a 6 inch lift and 35's. Im in central Florida" Well of course you are. Bless your heart!
just did this about 3 weeks ago on a 2021 expedition, went through he same process as you. wish I saw your video before hand!
2018 with a reman transmission 30,000 mi ago. Will be doing this real soon. Cashed in Ford points for the supplies...
before you drain. while cold verify cold level. makes tings a ton easier.
Great tip!
Would you get it to that same cold level before running through the gears or after?
@@simd510 Ill be finding out shortly, wifes explorer is about to get a trans after new year 160k and starting to act up
Just did this service on my 22 f150 today. Not a fun job without a lift!
Everything is harder when you're on your back LOL!
Because of yours video I just got rebuild transmission by Richardson performance
Good choice! Scott is the man!
@@BackroadDriver nice guy! And I have a similar oil pan, just different brand
@@George-AshHow many miles on rebuild? Smoother shifting?
@ericmcglothlin9779 I got about 10K on it since the rebuild. I wouldn't say there's a difference in feel with a built transmission at all. I switched from livernois to Oz tuning when the transmission was rebuilt so in that aspect the shifts are much stiffer. There's no more slippage between shifts. I can chirp the gears all the way through 80 to 90 mph now.
@@ericmcglothlin9779 other shop kill my transmission by simple oil change, at 90k miles
Just had this exact upgrade done to my 21’, however I went with Amsoil. Never have I heard switching to Amsoil caused my tranny to fail. The fault is in the CDF drum as you guys explained in a previous video
Amsoil is good stuff. Everyone knows that. I wanted to stick with Motorcraft since these transmissions are so finicky. With custom tuning I wanted to be apples to apples with the fluid if there were any differences.
Smart move buddy
The problem with Amsoil is up until very recently they were telling people their LV was fine for ULV when it is much thicker and not to the Motorcraft spec. Valvoline's ULV was much closer. Just make sure to get the Green and not Blue cap Amsoil.
Nice work
Glad we got a vide from you guys.
Happy riding
About to do the same to my truck. I just have the standard transfer case without the auto 4wd so I will be using Redline MTL to refill it with. It is a little higher viscosity and provides more protection since I use my 4wd hard in the winter time pulling a trailer. For the transmission I am going to use Phillips 66 versatrans ULV which is a full synthetic. From my research the Motorcraft ULV is not a full synthetic but I could be wrong. Plan on changing the fluid and filter every 20K to keep the clutch material to a minimum. I believe all that clutch material in the fluid acts like a lapping compound on the valves and valve body bores. 10-speeds are constantly shifting and with that clutch and steel material in the fluid it wears out the valve body. Going to also drop the valve body and put a few extra goodies in. Some sonnax valves and o-ringed plugs along with a RatioTek valve body kit.
I just put Valvoline Extended Protection in my 10R80 so far so good took out 8qts and put the same in. a little hard shift till all the air was cleared after that so smooth up and down. still yeah feel like I could be doing a risk but I have lifetime drive train by the dealer and PremiumCARE.
Thank you for this value priceless info about this job
I changed my fluid on my 2021 F150, at 38,000 klm, it’s shifted much smoother afterwards.
Found quite a bit of small metal fragments in the pan & filter.
I recently bought a new 2024, I’ll be changing the fluid at 15-20,000
As mine is new all the fluids need to be changed way early cause there is some breaking in going on.
Just got a 2024 f-150 changed the motor oil at 750mi and again at 2500mi it’s my first new truck and I want to keep it for a long time
I’m wanting to change the transmission fluids at 10,000 miles like you said there’s some breaking in that needs to be cleaned out
@@ethansides8089That’s a great idea!
@@mcmuskie2563Hey I just bought a 2024 F-150 with the V8 back in October 2024. I plan on keeping it for a while and I have already done 3 oil changes at 10000km. They were done at 1600, 5600, and at 10000km. Reason being is so the engine metals while breaking in wouldn’t be suspended in the factory fill. I do use 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra. From now on I’m going to be doing 5k changes. I’m going to be doing my transmission service at 20000km because I also want to get rid of any metals from break in. What type of fluid did you use when you did your previous F-150? I’m stuck between Amsoil and OEM Ford. I do plan on doing it every 40000km after the first one but I thought I’d ask which fluid is best. I do live in Canada in colder climate so I know the fluids out here do tend to go thru more abuse and the right fluid is important.
@benzamg336 I used Ford Mercon ULV because my transmission is built and tuned. I wanted to keep things the same. When you do a pan drop, and filter change you only remove about 55 to 60% of the fluid and when adding a deeper pan and extra fluid maybe 75%. I didn't want to mix fluids and possibly run into tuning issues. Valvoline makes a ULV fluid but at the time I made the video Amsoil did not. A few months after this video Amsoil released a new ULV specific transmission fluid. All three of these products have a different additive package. Nobody runs two different motor oils at the same time and thinks it's a good idea. The base oils and additives don't work correctly together in different concentrations. The same thing goes for trans fluids. Since you are changing early with low miles you might do a filter and pan if you want, but also a flush with different fluid completely. Amsoil makes good products and Valvoline does as well. I just don't like mixing fluids. Plenty of people have given me a hard time about my choice but feel like it was the right decision to stick with what I had in the system. If I do a complete flush in the short term I wouldn't hesitate to consider Amsoil or Valvoline as an option. I'd need to pay someone with the proper equipment to do that though.
@@BackroadDriver Thank you for this info and your reply. I will most likely be going with Ford LV. Is there any difference between LV and ULV? Which one is needed for the transmission fluid change? I’ll also do my transfer case while I’m at it as I do use my 4A quit a lot. How many miles you got on the 5.0 now? I’m coming from a 3.5 EB and had some concerns about the belt driven oil pump in the 4th gen 5.0 but I feel it should last the life of the motor or is there a time it would need to be replaced since it’s a belt? That’s one of my concerns and the cylinder deactivation but I’ve run into no problems currently at 11000km. I do plan on getting a tune to remove cylinder deactivation after warranty is up.
Sir What was the torque please? the transmission pan bolts? 96 inch lbs. and 106 inc lbs?
About Time u made a video big dawg I no your brother all tied up
Yeah, it's been hectic lately but we're trying to catch up on some projects we've been working on. Life has to come first for sure.
i love it
Ok...when can I bring my truck in for service for you to change everything out?
Install the fill / check locking tube
Is cold weather or extreme cold causes bad performance to transmission if using an aluminum transmission pan?
awesome great camera work behind the scenes do you have one question though?
Will you be changing your transmission oil cooler
I'm not changing the cooler. If this were a racing application only I might. The reason is it doesn't get up to temperature like it should without the existing heater/cooler that comes on the truck. I don't know of an application that still uses the heater portion to get the transmission up to temp properly. Therefore the transmission runs in the low 100s a lot of the time with a cooler. I've seen guys running around 118ish. My transmission is built and it doesn't run well until it gets above 150ish for what ever reason. I'm not in a super cold climate but in the winter it would be a problem for daily driving. Not so much in the summer but that alone is the reason I'm not going to put a cooler on it. With the transmission pan upgrade a haven't been over the 220's while towing a camper in its worst conditions. I just haven't seen a way to add a cooler without getting rid of the heater and that's not good either. I know a lot of trans coolers have the option to add a thermostat to come on at 180 but if it takes a super long time to come on you could be running the truck very cold most of the time as a daily driver. It would still heat up pretty well in the summer and be okay but in the winter it might not ever get up to temp.
So the bronco is dead ?
Is this the standard or deep pan?
Deep pan.
Those fins on the bottom inside are for cooling
How do you clean your hand pumps? Or do you consider them disposable?
I hang it up high with the tubes down over a trash can. I work the fluid out of the pump itself while it's still warm so it can drain well. Once it has drained you can pump water through it to clean it out better and it will evaporate. At that point I feel good using it on my next project. If I were planning on using it in the next few days I would probably use another pump. If your first step on another project is to pump something out you're probably good anyways.
Probably can use compressed air to blow inside dry?
after you let them drain, pump a bottle of rubbing alcohol thru them
If you have air, wouldn't it be beneficial to blow out the trans cooler lines also?
Yes, you could definitely get a little more fluid out that way. A lot of guys are going to have the front mounted trans cooler and it's going to have to be unplugged anyway. A lot of it will drain out but you could force some air through there as well.
I check the Transmission fluid and it said it’s not right for my vehicle
I took mine to the dealership to have the transmission fluid changed, seeing the space you have to work with just to be able to check the fluid level I didn't feel like burning my arms. All the manufacturers are playing us dirty with these transmissions you can't check fluid level. I have seen an aftermarket dip tube that can be added from the engine compartment and screw into the trans. Has anyone any information about these? Thanks for the information in your videos, really appreciate it.
What did your dealer charge for fluid and filter change ?
@@Heisenberg55 $388 that included changing the front differential fluid too. I did the rear myself, it was real easy.
I paid 110.00 for the filter alone, then 14.00 per ltr, x 8
So how can they do it correctly for $380.00
My buddy just took his in for Brake Service Check, $400.00 later and they didn’t do the work.
I’ll do my own service thanks!
@@mcmuskie2563 they aren’t dropping the pan and changing the filter. They just flush it.
Pan and Filter taken out. New Pan, Filter and ATF put in. Torque Converter not flushed out. Any reason why most peeps don't flush out Torque Converter ?
It takes special equipment to flush the transmission completely. The dealership or other service centers have a machine that connects where the oil cooler attaches. They can add fluid while taking fluid out and completely flush the system while under pressure. You can't drain the fluid and then turn on the vehicle to empty the torque converter because there's no fluid for the valves to operate which would cause damage. This method removes about 70% of the fluid. Most people call it good enough. I could drain the transmission again and refill and be close to 90% new fluid though. It just costs a lot more for what you get.
@@BackroadDriverI’ve never done it to a 10 speed. But I lot of the times you can just loosen the valve body bolts and it will drain the torque converter completely. On older cars you used to be able to pull the return line from the radiator and just fill it as it pumps the old fluid out. New cars ruined that though.
@@waterloo123100 on my car Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo which has ZF 6 Speed Auto Transmission, the garage I took it to told me if they Flush Out Torque Converter it " May " damage the transmission. They only replace plastic pan which has built in filter with 4 litres of ATF. There is around 7-8 Litres of burned ATF which is in Torque Converter for 9 years.
@@anish-79Well that shop is pulling your leg because the the fluid in the converter runs through the transmission as well
@@waterloo123100 They didn't even put a drain plug in the stock pan and tell you in the manual to change it at 150k miles which is the worst advice possible. This industry is really scummy. No good engineer would ever design a system this way.
hey just wondering if yall ever done will it run videos of cars discovered along the backroads?
How do you clean those hand pumps, or are the essentially disposable?
I like to lick them clean.
How many quarts total did you use for your transmission cause I just had this done on mine at a mechanic shop they put in 11 quarts but according to Ford the 10R80 full capacity is 13 quarts the lubrication is 12.2 quarts I just wanna make sure that it was done correctly before I take it over to Ford dealer to make sure that it was done correctly as far as the bolts torque to spec and the fluid was filled correctly. Just curious.
They did a good job for you. What I did was only a pan drop. I didn't flush what was in the torque converter and cooler lines out. I obviously don't have a machine to put it under pressure and do a complete flush. I changed about 7.5 quarts but ended up adding back in a little over 9 quarts because of the extra capacity in the the new pan. I only had 10,000 mi on the transmission and I can now change my fluid in the future fairly easy. It will only be about 9+/- quarts when I drain it and refill.
I have a 2020 F150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost. Changed filter and installed higher capacity PPE pan. PPE told me it would add ~1.75 quarts. I had to put in 12 quarts to bring 10R80 back to minimum level. Not sure why it took so much.
Does anyone know if Ford can screw out of warranty coverage due to changing to this aftermarket pan? Thoughts?
According to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, they have to prove the damage was caused by the aftermarket part. That doesn't mean your local dealer and tech won't play some games with you, but I think it would be tough to say this isn't an all around upgrade that is better than the stock pan. The real problem with how all this stuff works is you would have to most likely get a lawyer and sue them for damages, and they have endless amounts of money to fight you the entire way. Aftermarket upgrades like this are very niche and you would have a hard time getting an attorney general or even private lawyer to take up your cause. Buyer beware is always the rule.
What brakes are you running on the truck
APB brakes. The video is here. ruclips.net/video/__QW9cOxPFQ/видео.htmlsi=WtMgfpXEAFGmvNVJ
Thanks
Bs factory 21017 exhaust, PPE xtra cap not fitting in and still not enough room liftin whole truck by tranny to fit PPE pan, cross beam bolts still showin fimnger width through xbeam afraid to jack it up more, stuck my hand above tranxcase seems like its maxed.
I’m a ford tech helper to a master tech , mainly do transmission, a lot of the techs say yeah that fluid will last 100,000 miles, uhhh bullshit , I bought a 23 v8 f150 and I change my fluid whenever I want, did it once at 30,000 and il do it every 10,000. Those pans look very cool and helpful cause damn I would love that drain plug. But one thing I notice is if I had to pull that transmission completely out of the truck, the transmission jacks I have won’t be able to pull that unit like I do the others , so I’m wondering when I have to pull my own unit out and rebuild it should I get this pan, if anyone can send me a link to show me the specs for the pan .
Was this on a 5L or 3.5?
5.0L
have 80,000 on my f150 never pull nothing should i change my transmission fluid?
Yes, flat out change it. Most transmission tech will state 30 to 50 K interval.
I just hit 30k so can change it now or wait until when?
Change it whenever you feel comfortable. I changed mine around 10k because it was built and I was putting on a new pan. I changed my wife's Lincoln Aviator at 45k. I would say you've got another 10 to 15k mi before you need to change it but change it when the weather is right and it's easy for you to do. Just make sure you write it down or put it in a spreadsheet and know when it was done. Set a reminder for yourself to do it again in the future. I think 40 to 50K miles each change is a good place for 10r80 or 10r60 transmissions. 150k is too late. I know a lot of people don't care because they're going to get rid of the vehicle before then but if you don't want any problems it's got to be done earlier.
@@BackroadDriver how many miles do you think i need to change it ? And all the stuff u used in the link it fit a 3.5ECO 2022?
@Brianchene8 I'd wait till about 40 - 45k.
Where do you get the torque specs from?
You can buy a Ford service repair workshop manual. They can be found on eBay. To be honest I got the torque specs for the bolts on this transmission cover from a fellow RUclipsr FordTechmMakuloco. That being said don't trust everything you see on the internet. If I were building an engine I would have my own service manual but for something like this I trust a Ford techs opinion from another video.
Hey what torque converter are you running?
Factory.
how’ve the brakes been?
They've been good to me. I just turned the rotors and put on new pads. I also did the rears at the same time. I got about 30,000 mi out of them and I would say that's a miracle considering how many high-speed stops I've made and the amount of towing the truck sees.
I just bought a case of Amsoil of my transmission. 😂
As I mentioned in other comments amsoil is great stuff. I just wanted to stick with the same stuff since I'm custom-tuned and not have any variables I can't control.
@@BackroadDriver thanks for the video.
Good to see someone actually breaking out the inch pounder.
Amsoil is the variable that improves shifting and protection against wear. Having aftermarket pan is another variable that you can’t control but you are using it.
@@repairvehicle I would feel better if AMSOIL made any reference to being in compatible with ULV. It doesn’t and then Ford says don’t use anything other than ULV. Feels like an unnecessary risk, but I’m gonna take it with the understanding that Ford thinks this is OK for 150,000 miles
@@Pb_Slinger it’s says on their website, ULV compatible. Ford says don’t use aftermarket pan either and you use it. Unnecessary risk too. Ford is not telling the truth otherwise they would give 150k warranty on the transmission
Maybe you guys can help me I live in Roanoke, Virginia have a 2024 Ford F150 super crew 5.0 10 speed transmission and that joker makes a bad wine and noise at idle and low speed to echoes off of buildings. It is very annoying. I’ve had people ask me if it was electric truck. I’ve had it back to three times they told me it was normal, not normal. I need suggestions thank you.
Heard anything about it since you posted the comment?
@ no sir
I bought it from Magic city Ford in Roanoke, Virginia. They suck
Ford says 60k on trans fluid, filter should be changed at 150k and t case fluid 30k as well a the diff
Check again. If you flip through the maintenance schedule there's nothing about changing the transmission fluid until 150,000 mi. It says to inspect the fluid level many times on that schedule but never to change it or the filter until 150k. That's what my 2021 maintenance schedule says anyways.
@@BackroadDriver Ford says 60 k on trans fluid; filter at 150 and 30k on the t case and diff fluids
@@CrkdFngrGngrBndt - What year/engine is your truck? I want to look it up. I just checked my manual (2020 5.0) and it lists service intervals of 20k, 30k, 100k, 150k, and 200k.
-Cabin Air Filter is every 20k miles.
-Engine Air Filter every 30k miles.
-Spark Plugs at 100k miles.
-Automatic transmission fluid and filter, front axle fluid, rear axle fluid, transfer case fluid, replace accessory drive belt every 150,000k miles.
-Engine Coolant every 200,000k miles.
I'm a believer in 30K for all fluids minus the anti-freeze. Oil every 5K.
No engine or tranny died from having the fluied changed too early or often. But many engines, transmissions, and valve bodies have died from having the oil changed too late. If you want a trouble free vehicle that runs nice change your fluids more often Yes fluids are expensive but still far cheaper than a tranny or engine.
Where’ve y’all been lately?
I bought my truck used and now I've got 135k on it. So I guess I won't be doing this.... until it gets rebuilt
What plastic pan.
guess have to try disconnecting exhaust. Starter took hours to to get out and put in nes starter fricken ford made everything to tight a fit.
I think I’ll just stick with a 6r80 😂
Cool part is the failure to the 10r80 isn't going to be fluid related. That Ford/GM collab is problematic no matter the pan or fluid
Where’s the bronco
nice pan,the OEM one is dog shit
Yep, it's as basic as possible. I'm very happy with the temp drop.
@@BackroadDriver How much did it drop the temps you think? Been thinking about dropping my whipple f-150 off at Richardson Performance and have him do built trans with this pan at the same time.
The temperatures don't rise as fast or fall as fast. The extra fluid keeps things more consistent. You'll probably only see somewhere around 5° or less difference under normal driving. My last camping trip was to the same place I was previously. It was mid to upper '90s ambient temps out both times. My transmission ran right at 10° cooler on the trip with the new pan. It's hard to put an exact number on it. So many variables but it definitely makes a difference. A haven't driven in cooler weather yet so I don't know what that's like either.
Since you are replacing the pan, why not just drill a hole in the bottom first?
Not a bad idea as long as you get out of the way quick enough. You'd also want to drill in an area where you knew for certain you weren't going to run the bit into something and damage it.
How about for those after market manufactures do a darn exact same pan with a drainage plug? How hard could it be? Stop re-engineering the crap out of it!
Dorman makes one. Google it.
So, no transmission dip stick... WTF👎
Are you serious??? A 1/4" extension and 8mm wobble will get those back 4 bolts
You don't have to run the truck up and down the road. Ford in their stupidity put a internal thermostat that will bypass the cooler till it gets up to temp. Just start it idling it will go up to temp. Your "performance builder" should have installed transgo button to fix the temp issue. If they did, then it will be at correct level after about 30 seconds
Bigger pan is useless. Needs a bigger trans cooler.
This pan isn't just bigger but also aluminum with fins so it isn't totally useless. Sure an oil to air cooler would be more effective but recent generations of F150 no longer have this. They are currently running tranny oil to water heat exchangers, which they are doing the same for engine and turbo oil. I would say upgrade to larger radiator to help all around.
Plastic pan boy they make it crappy.
These guys quit doing vids
🔥🔥Hi Brad! We sent you an email last week for a collaboration. Carista now offers customizations for Ford (also advanced diagnostics, live data, and service tools) If you can check your inbox 🙏🏻🙏🏻
I wish I never bought my ford.
Same here
why???
Spot the idiot at the dealership.... It's the one buying a TRUCK 😂😂