Will A Transmission Flush Fix This Shuddering Ford F150??
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- We hear it all the time… Flushing the transmission fluid is a waste of money. Or they say it will just make it worse. That hasn’t been our experience, but we decided to test it with this F150. It came in with a shuttering issue, and we are going to show the issue and then do a before and after. Let’s see what happens! Enjoy!
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Some of our viewers said our video was too bright and suggested changing some settings. We recently took it off of HD. Can you leave some feedback below on if you see a difference or not? We want to make it the best quality possible for those watching on both phones and the TV. Thanks for all the support and feedback!
Sherwood, I see a drop in quality (to be expected) in your move to HD from UHD (4K). Your videos are markedly better in 4K, and I don't see what that has to do with brightness. I have however noticed some bright scenes, but that's just the nature of your filming conditions. You guys are putting up top-tier automotive content and are not Hollywood producers... who cares if the visual is not 'perfect'. Keep up the awesome content you are much appreciated!
Double check your HDR settings either when recording or exporting.
Seems fine to me
I expect most people watch on their phones. It’s easy to change the brightness…. Nothing to complain about.
Doesn’t seem overly bright to me, I like it bright when reading a scan tool. I wouldn’t change what you are doing. Thanks!
Back in the 1990s when I was the trans tec at a Chrysler dealer we had a TSB that told us to change the transmission fluid twice. To cure converter shudder. That along with a reprogram for the TCM took care of almost all of them.
Confirm shudder, drop pan, and inspect magnet. Usually, they look ok. If clean, go back with a new filter, pan gasket, friction modifier and fresh fluid (usually about six quarts). Fixes it every time, never had one come back. My shop does a ton of these.
So what is exactly the problem.
The clutches in the torque converter causing it to shudder. Or valve body sticking.
Thanks.
@Jerzeyguy The converter itself. Ford intentionally slips the converter between 1-5 RPM, sometimes in the 20s, while cruising down the highway depending on the current load situation. Over time, this wears down the torque converter clutch. Prim and proper way to repair it would be to replace the converter. Most people just opt for the method I mentioned above because it's much more cost friendly vs. paying the labor for transmission removal and installation.
@ great explanation much appreciated. Your channel is very informative.
Mine was shuddering when I got it around 70 mph and when I dropped the pan the filter fell out and the ring seal was broken I cleaned everything put new filter and fluid then flushed the lines and cooler no more issues
LUBEGARD INSTANT SHUDDER FIXX
There. I fixed it.
Had this similar process done on my 2018 Camaro, 8 speed auto with 12k miles. Solved the issue ! GM knew about the issue but wouldn't recall it. Cost me $500! Runs smooth now. Great video
They are finding out it is the Dexron 6 also causing it and replacing it with the Mobil 1 blue label LVHP ATF. This started in the 2015 and up years
@Toolaholic7 exactly what they used in mine. Friend of mine who us a shop foreman at a Chevy dealer did mine at the dealership.
The transmission on this F-150 has a little over 100,000 mi. The flush will probably help, but for how long? In the Camaro, the transmission had 12,000 mi. I don't think any harm would be done due to the low mileage.
@@edbaczewski2959 I did my 2000 BMW's GM 5 speed auto with LiquiMoly @ 111k miles. Smooth as butter.
My jeeps transmission was surging until I changed the fluid. On a side note, it's incredible to see the underside and bottom of that old truck like it just rolled out of the factory.
Cheers from the Rust Belt
This video was really informative-I learned something valuable here! If you're tackling this job yourself, it's best to replace the drain pan with one that includes a drain plug, along with a new filter. Since you can’t fully drain all the old oil just by replacing the pan, you’ll need to do a few flushes. For high-mileage vehicles, I’d recommend doing this every 5,000 miles to gradually cycle out the remaining old oil. Before watching this, I would have simply replaced the drain pan and filter, topped off the lost oil, and assumed the job was done-without considering the residual oil still left in the system. Thanks for the helpful insight! You can still DIY this even without the fancy equipment these guys have if you do what I just said.
I suggest ATF/CVT fluid all day. I do my fair share, but many people say nope. They have been lead to believe that it's a scam by the giant YT stars. Thanks for showing this with real world results!
I'm really impressed with how Clean and organized your shop is, , , you (Royalty Auto Service) and the Car Care Nut channel Has the Cleanest Shops on RUclips, ,
I must include The Car Wizard Channel as a Close Third Place.
I would consider calling what you did is an ATF Fluid Change, , , not an ATF fluid Flush , , , and I truely believe in ATF fluid Changes or Drain and Fill every 30k-40k, , thx for the Video and Glad it Worked for your Customer!
My only issue with a procedure like this is the filter is not getting changed and could be full of debris from clutch wear over the years. And whatever "stuff" is on the pan bottom can be wiped out and the magnet checked when you do the filter. I prefer to drop the pan, change the filter and refill and then do like you guys are doing. On my last work van I was able to buy a pan that had a drain plug on it. That made the job even easier to do.
That’s what I did had to put in 7 quarts with new filter. Ran it for a month or two drop the pen just train the fluid clean the pan out and put 7 quarts back in filter look good.
So glad I watched this till the end and the reason is a quick change shop does not test drive the vehicle after servicing it because another car is behind you waiting to have their car quick serviced!!
I have a transmission flush machine also. Numerous customers said that they were told they needed a transmission. After cleaning and flushing saved them thousands
Is that the customers truck being washed in the background? I've always done my own work, but once I had to take my car to a shop to do some work that I wasn't capable of doing. When I got my car back they washed it and vacuumed the inside. I can't tell you how appreciated that made me feel. This was 25 years ago and I still recommend that shop to this day. It was a very nice touch.
My local Toyota dealer used to do that. As a regular working guy, I really felt the same way. It was such a great touch.
I hadn’t been to them in some years until last spring and was really looking forward to it. Got my car back and they hadn’t done it. I looked around the service parking lot and it looked as though none of the rigs had been washed. I guess they just quit doing that at some point.
I absolutely forbid shops to wash my vehicle. Too much risk they'll scratch the paint or damage something. Let's face it, it's probably the lowest rated/youngest employee who will be doing this and you have no way of knowing if he got any training. Probably not.
@@ed909agreed. While I think it is a nice touch and the majority of customers would appreciate it, they should certainly get approval prior to washing a vehicle. If my near pristine paint came back with swirl marks from a complimentary wash, I would not be happy. I realize this may read as “no good deed goes unpunished”, simply securing approval would alleviate most issues arising from this.
lol the chance of some kid scratching your car while washing it is relatively low
My trans flush Trick.
Pulled a cooling line on the output of the trans cooler and used a hose going into a bucket.
Start the motor and when the flow slows down, shut it down and add fluid.
Repeat the process until new fluid starts to come out.
This process cleans out ALL the old fluid, even from the radiator-cooler, and the torque converter.
It does Not mix old fluid into the new fluid.
What came out was Brown, until it was coming out Bright Red.
Using the old fluid for the chainsaw bar and chain lube.
This process worked for me
That's how we do it. No mixing of fluids
Yes. Sounds good!! But how did you fill the fluid back in?
@@pzm958 through the hole they showed in the video. Get a small drill pump.
I have a Silverado 1500 with 130,000 on it. Started with the shudder. After watching this video definitely going to have the transmission flushed. Thank you
I believe GM recommends a new type of trans fluid for that as well. I have never had good success with the GM shudder by doing a trans flush. But $300 - $400 it is worth a try. Good luck.
If its a 6 speed it's a waste of money. By time you feel the shudder on those the torque converter clutch is gone.
130k might be too much. All that clutch material circulating in the fluid might be holding the transmission together at that point.
My 2019 Silverado has 150,000 miles, developed the shutter 5,000 miles ago. Dropped the pan, put in a new filter and 6 quarts of Mobil1 Synthetic LV ATF HP Black Label and 1 tube of LubeGuard. Shutter no longer there.
Honda Master Tech here. At the dealer on the 6 Speed v6 cars they all develop a torque converter shutter eventually from lack of service every 30k and driving habits. If we get code p0740 it’s a wrap we’re putting in a converter and all new fluid. But before you get that code and experience shutter that you can feel and see on graph, we like to do a triple transmission service. Drain and fill 3 times, drive in between on rack is our method. Usually sorts it before it’s too far gone.
Had three Honda’s all were a 200k. Drain and fill every 30k mi. Zero issues
Been using Castrol TQ95 on our Hondas. V6 Odyssey with 250 miles and a five cylinder Rafaga with about 120 miles, but mainly around town.
I think the Castrol TQ95 is mainly Australia and New Zealand?
Trans fluid service every 30k is insanity
@@Rockardo_ if your just a regular customer who doesn’t do your own service you can get away with 50k miles every drain and fill. But it’s not expensive and takes 10 minutes to service. Hondas are very sensitive to fluid contamination I’ve only had trannys out hundreds of times over this issue.
Not a waste at all, it works. My 2016 f150 w/ 5.0 and 6 speed had shudder ss bad as the one in this video. A fluid and filter change and quality anti-shudder additive COMPLETELY eliminated it. A quality shop, parts and fluid will get you going smoothly down the road. It was definitely worth the money spent. Coming up on a year now and it's perfect.
As a ford tech, at the dealer most customers don't want to do converter right off. So we do shudder fix in it with a fluid and filter change. Most times that takes care of it in the f150 as long as you use mercon. However we make sure the customer knows it's likely to be a temporary fix. We see it come back after around 30-40k miles if its actually the converter. 😊
Getting another 30 to 40k miles for less than $500 seems like a very square deal
Gee. I commented earlier that's what's worked for me and some corn hole on here told me I'm wrong pretty much.
He was saying that you can't try things just because you saw something online. Well I know for a fact that although rare both South Main Auto AND Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics have both taken shots at issues based on what's online.
Definitely do the fluid exchange! If not, it’s the cheapest option for a good result… I have changed them for years… my machine hooks directly into the trans line… 100 per new fluid ( good to go! )
Sherwood, I know you know what you are doing, and I trust you completely. Thank you for sharing this and teaching us how to save us and our customers money. No point in just throwing away money. I agree do this first and if the problem is deeper then we deal with it. Again, thank you.
They do work! I had a older ford car one time that would barely pull itself into the bay. Did a trans flush with new fluid. The old was really discolored. Went and test drove it, and it drove and shifted perfectly. The customer drove it over two years after that, before he traded in on a new car.
I would’ve wanted to pull the pan and see if the filter was plugged with debris that was going to reoccur and cause the same problem with r a worse one. But now that I know flushes have long history of fixing the problem permanently, I think you did the right thing. How’s that for 20-20 hindsight? I was a Ford Dealership mechanic in the 1970’s and 80’s and saw the benefits of a converter drain. I’m sure the manufacturers are saving $10-$15 per car by not providing converter drains and dipsticks but it’s a big disservice to their customers - in my humble opinion.
Lots of shudder problems are fixed with fluid flushes. Even newer cars without much mileage we have seen an improvement especially when the fluid has been improved. Many manufacturers update fluid and software for a problem like this as well.
Good call.
Go to bed jimmy you got work in the morning and video to do 😁
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 Yeah, hopefully Jimmy got new shop keys. They changed the locks on him.
@ oh oh
I did this at home to my 2015 F150 5.0. Used a fluid extractor and gallon jugs of ATF with a hand pump. Was a lot more annoying than this, but after doing it over and over 4 times (16 quarts total) my ATF looks new. Truck shifts better and I know I’m protected.
Dude drop the pan. The pan is coated in a film of crap you want out. The magnet is probably all nasty too and needs a clean. Its so easy just drop the pan and replace the filter too its cheap and simple.
@ I don’t think that’s necessary when you keep up on ATF changes. For the first change sure, but apart from that there isn’t a whole lot of wear going on to cause metals
@@brandon9715 My thought is you cant assume anything you might get in there and find something unexpected. Also pumping the fluid out and in is 85% of the job, thanks to the worst trans fill port in the history of automobiles lol.
Pulling off the bolts and swaping the filter is the easier and more satisfying part for me. Just beware the reusable gaskets they are not always so reusable and can leak upon reinstallation. Just my opinion to each his own, glad you are doing it at all!
I have a 1995 Ford f150 also with. 5.0. It used to shudder real bad. I did a full transmission flush and it helped some but not much. I then took transmission down and changed the torque converter. It’s been 6 years since and no more shuddering.
Sherwood, I thought I would leave a comment on this topic as well. As a DIYer doing this in my garage, I did a transaxle pan drop and filter change recently. I drained out about 5.5 quarts. The complete capacity of the 62TE is 9 quarts. When I put it back together I replaced the OE pan with a Dorman pan with a drain plug like vehicles used to have to make servicing easy. My thought in the future is to drain the fluid without taking the pan off when I do an oil change on my Pentastar engine. In time that should keep most of the ATF+4 fluid fresh. My vehicle is a 2012 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible with 78,000 miles currently.
Every transmission shop I've ever talked to have said not to flush transmissions, rather drain the fluid, change the filter, and fill up. If filter is not serviceable, then do a double drain-and-fill. Many OE manufacturers having issued TSB's explicitly stating not to flush the transmissions.
No shop I know of flushes fluid anymore. It's a fluid exchange. Disconnect the output trans cooler line and plumb in the machine that exchanges the fluid. I personally reset the adaptive shifts for the trans post new fluid so the trans relearned the new fluid.
@ you’re absolutely right, the old style of “flushing” used much higher pressures than todays “exchanging”; however, exchanges still neglect the filter, and it still uses some pressure which can cause debris to dislodge and, if enough debris is present, could cause the filter to clog. I’d still prefer to do a drain and fill with a filter change. But that’s just my 2¢
if you have a Ford trans shuddering even after changing fluid put in a tube of Lubeguard instant shudder fix . i never belived in "snake oil" fixes, but this was told to me be a transmission shop that specialized in Ford transmissions and it does work.
That’s the friction modifier. It does work! However, the purpose of it is mostly to diagnose burnt fluid that has lost viscosity. Using it will thicken the fluid. But you should still replace all the fluid. for my qx80 i did a tiny bit of friction modifier with the new fluid to compensate for any old fluid still lingering in the transmission. Worked great, totally fixed the shuddering torque converter
On my 1998, Ford T-Bird did a fluid drain and new filter. I drained the torque converter and dropped the pan and replaced the filter. I filled it 10 quarts of fluid. That fixed the problem 😅
Nice video. I have a 2014 Mustang GT with the six-speed automatic in it. At 30,000 miles, I put in an aftermarket dipstick that comes up into the engine compartment and changed the fluid and filter. I had also bought another factory Ford transmission pan and had a drain plug welded in at the lowest point of the pan so for future fluid changes, I can easily remove the fluid.
During my fluid and filter change, I got 5 1/2 quarts out. I plan on draining and re-filling the fluid about every 30,000 miles or so with filter changes about every 60,000 miles.
My fiancé has a 2017 F150 with the same six-speed and I plan on changing the fluid and filter on it pretty soon. It has 53,000 miles and so far, has no shudder. I will probably put an aftermarket dipstick in it as well.
Fully replace the fluid and filter. Add a fluid modifier! Exactly what I had done for my truck. It’s not fully permanent but lasts a while. Only had to flush or replace fluid and filter when the transmission is absolutely screwed anyway, from what I’ve researched.
The old Lucas Stop Slip is like magic in a bottle, flushed my very slipping transmission multiple times then added the Lucas, it was miraculous. Got another 5 years out of a shot box.
I didn’t know there was a difference, from a service recommendation standpoint, between a shudder versus shifting situation. I learned something. Thank you.
I wished I lived near this auto mechanic cause I would definitely let him service my vehicles. Excellent video of why transmission flushes are necessary for the modern vehicle. Primary reason is that you have to remove all the old transmission fluid especially from the torque converter. I just did my transmission flush for my 2021 Nissan Armada at a Nissan dealership at around 40,000 miles (the cost was $240.00). I tow a boat, so transmission maintenance is critical. After the flush, I noticed buttery smooth shifting (not that is was bad before). If you wait past 100000 miles than a flush is not recommended according to my Nissan dealership. But, don't wait, just flush it at 40 to 50000 miles and your transmission will last as long as the engine.
We use the BG flush machine and go through the transmission cooler lines. The main problem with newer transmissions is the thermostat internal of the transmission. Most can be easily flush by Teeing into the cooler lines for your supply to the flush machine and return to the dipstick tube.
Most of the newer fords use Mercon LV or ULV which is $$.
There is also a reflash for most of the ford 6 speed transmission to prevent the transmission from downshifting to 1st gear on the highway when the output sensor fails.
The ford 10 speed transmission have an issue with the bushing migrating in one of the clutch drums and no fluid change will resolve that.
The GM 8 Speed transmissions have the shudder that feels like your driving on the rumble strip. Mobil 1 LV ATF HP will resolve the shudder and now jasper is recommending this fluid on many older GM transmissions.
I’m all for the ATF Flush. As long as the fluid is good and the vehicle does good keep doing it. Not to be advertising brands but I’m into the Amsoil Signature Series ATF 60k maximum interval. But as long as the fluid meets specs
Very intersting as i just did a Flush with the BG machine at the dealer, Regular serice every 60k. Runs fine.
Transmission fluid exchange is definitely the best thing you can do for any transmission. Ford recommends EVERY 25,000 -30,000 miles, especially for ALL 10 speeds. GM recommends every 30,000 on their 8 speeds + using approved fluid to cure TC shuddering. I have done exchanges for 30+ years & many of my customers got 300,000 miles plus on their transmissions before needing a rebuild. ALSO: Don't neglect changing the filters EVERY 75,000 miles. I have 1 customer w/ a super duty diesel that got 350,000 miles + (all around town) on his original transmission before needing a rebuild & diesels are hard on transmissions. Changing ATF regularly is the best thing you can do for a transmission.
It is not,one local transmission repair shop in my area has made money off of them doing valve body cleanings finding they are full of dirt and crud after the flush is done
@@Toolaholic7 Any dirt/crud was there long before the transmission fluid exchange. That is why you change it @ 25-30,000 miles before the fluid breaks down, especially in 10 speed trans. where the fluid is almost black @ 40,000 miles due to the constant shifting of around town stop & go driving...... Bad fluid = bad transmission! Even major transmission builders know this fact! The crud comes from the torque converter & goes into the transmission/ valve body due to the worn out ATF.
@ That dirt and crud stays in the lines not moving around
@@Toolaholic7just did a valve body rebuild on my 05 f150. Pretty dirty in there!
Recently had your shop service my Lexus transmission as routine maintenance and it still runs great! Fluids are key!
My comment is that I enjoy your videos and I enjoy this channel. Thanks for posting and sharing.
I love u wash car after repair, that says a lot about You. Respect from Poland !
I wish we could have seen what fluid was used. So much debate on if you MUST use MerconLV, or if Valvoline (or others) may be the better choice because it’s full synthetic.
My previous 95 Mark VIII Lincoln with the 4R70W transmission had a TC shudder that was cured with a trans drain and fill. Like you said you could drain the TC too back then.
You should do a detailed video explaining that are trans " flush" is actually a transfusion. Too many people think that the machine circulates fluid backwards thru the trans and dislodges crud from the inside of the trans. If the understood the fluid is swapped with the old fluid without damaging any part of the trans it would help the understanding. It's not a flush ... it's a transfusion. Same as dropping the pan and refilling.
Had a 2015 Escape, performed a trans fluid exchange every 30k. When I traded the vehicle in for my retirement car, had 328,000 on the odo and never a transmission problem. Come to think about it, a reliable vehicle, 1 BCM and a purge control valve, plus routine maintenance. Hope my Edge ST is just a reliable.
Transmission fluid flush is a great thing to do in every vehicle. Trick is to do it from new or rebuilt at a regular service interval BEFORE you have issues. Great video gents. 👍👍👍👍
DIY'er here. Even with free labor (well, time is money but I've wasted it on worse), I'll always try the cheapest solution first. So definitely a flush, then move on to more expensive solutions.
I’m with you, just seems logical
Well, I had mine flushed as a precaution as I didn't buy it new and wanted to make sure it was clean with a flush and filter - no issues with that. What I will say is that if this needs a converter or transmission, TBD, what is the problem with doing a flush before since if it actually solves the issues, that is a lot less expensive than a converter or transmission rebuild. It is the least cost alternative of the 3 described.
I take the transmission line off and let it pump in a pan while i dump fresh fluid in. It gets close to 100% out. I also put an inline hydraulic filter on and i change it once a year or every May. Every other year i leave the filter off and i start it up and dump a case of oil in it while its running. My oil looks like new all the time. My wifes ford edge is another story. I just pull the pipe plug out and dump 5 quarts back in exactly. You would have to split the transmission to put a filter in it so i just put 5 fresh quarts of mercon 5 in every year as well.
All my vehicles have transmission drain plugs, I drain and fill once a year and filter every 3 or 4. Maybe do 10-15k per year per vehicle. Not an amsoil fanboy but I use amsoil in all of em. 4r75w, zf8 speed, and nissan rogue sport cvt. The amsoil really did a difference in the cvt.
As a used car dealer, I have had this happen to me in a few different vehicles. Not sure if it was in the converter or not, but my trans mechanic told me to add a 2oz bottle of posi-trac lube in the trans. In all cases it solved my problem within 5 miles of driving. He had told me he thought the clutches were glazed.
Really excellent video and recommendations. I wish I had seen this three months ago.
All's I know is, previously owned a Bronco and was giving me similar symptoms naturally I expected the worse. Mechanic that serviced the fleet vehicles where I used to work mentioned to try the flush first, milage, condition of the vehicle and as you mentioned being a Ford Transmission they're relatively dependable. He also mentioned costs worth the try flush before dropping thousands on stabbing a new or re-conditioned one. Ran perfectly till I eventually sold it years later
My dad's 170kmi 07 bmw 328ix with a gm 6-speed auto was shuddering and slipping. We changed out the fluid w bmw spec and used the laser temp gun to verify range. It slipped even more. 2 little 2oz bottles of Lube Gard Intstant Shudder Fix and all was well for 20k more miles(he sold it). Snake oil in a bottle that worked!
Good info to remember. Suggestion: I would have liked to hear an explanation of what exactly is happening mechanically when it shudders and why old fluid causes it.
Wow this has been a big ticket item for me lately.
In November I picked up a really clean 2017 GMC Sierra Denali with 70,000 miles. 1 owner and clean.
It started to do the shudder after couple thousand miles, and dealer says needs to pull transmission and RR torque converter and valve body, and maybe transmission. Dealer could not provide the turnover time for the job because of parts available and unknown resolution. The price the GM dealer quoted me was obscene. This is a big GM dealer and looked like most of the trucks were getting the same work done.
I noted on the trucks service records that the transmission fluid had been flushed at 50k. It did not have a transmission service and filter change.
Because I had a 30day return condition on the purchase, that’s what I did.
On my 2008 truck I own I have had success in the past, with similar transmission issues by replacing the filter and fluid a couple of times. The first fluid flush did not resolve the problem, but with another couple oil and filter changes it did fix the problem and it’s 6 years and 60k and we still drive that truck.
On the 2008 when the problem first started I did a flush,and then did multiple filter changes (Hail Mary).
My question is if you change the filter and fluid before the debris moves through the system can you stop the trans from eating itself?
More Importantly why can’t Ford or GM build a #/$&/ ! Transmission?
Maybe these two companies run by a bunch of morons get together and see if they can build a transmission with billions of dollars and hundreds of engineers from both companies? ……. Oh they tried that ?
So driving home today my #&#/& 2021 Sierra AT4… just had its first shudder. Here we go.. FFS’S
My local shop doesn’t have a machine as modern as yours, so maybe that’s why I needed to do multiple full fluid and filter changes ,, I dunno.
Hey thanks filter flush make sure you get it out of the torque converter to should be good thanks love it big guy
My 91 Seville had some hard shifts and probably never been changed after I bought it, but after new fluid its shifts nice an smooth. Not sure how new fluid could hurt any vehicle.
A few years back I had a 2012 Buick Enclave with about 90K miles I felt (what I later learned was torque converter shudder). Never had that before in any car I had and was thinking "ok let me just change the fluid". I DIY the fluid, just pop out drain plug and when it stops dripping, put it back and put in the same amount that came out. It got better for a while, but at 130K miles the shudder was back and I was about to get rid of the car soon so I just put a couple of bottles of Lubegard shudder fix in there, and within a few hundred miles the shudder went away. Gave it to my daughter and it now has 190K miles on it; she came over the other day, I took it out for a beer run to see how it was holding up, shifted like butter. 🙂
It depends on the customer and the vehicle, sometimes we’ll offer a flush and typically we’ll throw in a bottle of torque shudder fix when we’re done. But in newer model GM trucks and SUVs with the 8L90 and 10L80 transmissions we usually just recommend a new transmission if they’re anywhere near 100k or above
thanks
I believe some people don't get it, its fluid exchange, not the term flush that got a bad name way back
I did the math, the procedure as performed in this video results in about 74% of the transmission fluid being replaced, and 26% of the old fluid remaining in the system.
I do trans flushes as regular services for trucks we service. I don’t recommend them when the Trk has a few hundred K in the odometer, the fluid is black and it’s still shifting ok. We do let the customer know what they are in for when they eventually do have problems.
I've done similar on Ford Edge. They have a drain plug. Bought four jugs of tranmission fluid. Drain the fluid, and fill it back up to the proper level. Drove around the block, changing gears manually. Came back drained it again, and I kept doing that until I used all the jugs. 218k on it
I've seen F150s where the shuddering appeared like a transmission issue but it was actually bad ignition coils. New coils from Motorcraft ended the shudder.
Every time I feel this I change my plugs. Problem solved. These trucks like plugs every 30k
@jamesg4711 interesting. Those platinum plugs are "supposed" to last 100k miles.
Sitting there on the rack, you can drain & fill forever and won't get the fluid from the torque converter's lock-up clutch mechanism. We also usually drain & fill the trans multiple times in order to get as much of the fluid as possible, but we also drive it in between, ensuring that drive includes a bit of time with the lock-up clutch engaged.
Royalty Auto and friends, Are you doing this fluid service on the Chevy Silverado too, the Silverado is well known for the shuddering issue, so many newer model trucks out there with rebuilt transmissions in them. I hope to see you make a video about the transmissions in these 14-newer trucks based on your repairs made, which truck had the highest and lowest repair cost. Please consider a lot of your viewers drive trucks and actively look to upgrade. Perhaps a survey on who drives a truck. I hope you have a beautiful day!
I have a 10 year old Nissan Altima with a CVT that runs like a top! But unlike everyone else, I’ve dropped the pan, cleaned the magnet and changed the filter BEFORE it becomes a problem
I do that every 10k on my f150, i just do 5qts every 10k. I have 271k on my 2011 with the 6 speed, This is the way , it takes 20min and cost $40 to keep your trans running forever
Is it the torque converter or do you need to have your injectors flushed?
You need a couple of these and adapaters if you don't have.
Assenmacher Tools (AST) Fluid Hand Pump; 8 Liter | ATFBASIC
Flush or multiple drain and fills. If it still persists then try some Lubegard Instant Shudder Fixx. If it still does it then replace torque convertor.
On the 10r80s if you drop the pan and crack the valve body loose, everything but the fluid in the TC runs out quite quickly. Easy way to get 8-9qts of old fluid out in minutes without having to dilute the new stuff which is ULV, and quite expensive. 2qts at a time best case gives 50-60% of fluid replaced.
My 13 f150 started to shutter and I put the lube guard shutter stuff in it. It fixed it for a while then it came back again and I did a lead frame connector and I never did a flush. I don’t agree in flushes but just replaced the fluid that was in there and my transmission now has 400,000 miles with no problems.
I have been doing complete transmission flushes since 91 BG machines. I installed a flush first go drive it. Install the machine new fluid and conditioner. And they're good to go. As long as the customer tells the truth and saying how long it's been acting up and he hasn't hurt hurt the transmission
My 13 f150 started to shutter and I put the lube guard shutter stuff in it. It fixed it for a while then it came back again and I did a lead frame connector and I never did a flush. I don’t agree in flushes but just replaced the fluid that was in there and my transmission now has 400,000 miles with no problems. That’s with about 200,000 miles with a 20’ trailer behind it.
I had my pan replaced on my 2004 gmc sierra 1500 with a pan with a drain plug . Replaced the filter and just do a drain and fill . 230,000 miles . Its a 6 cylinder . Runs like a top
We have fixed so many vehicles with minor trans shudder issues. We've had our equipment for years and it gets used every day. One thing I did was change the service to a "Transmission Fluid Exchange" because that's really what it is. Takes fluid out, puts fluid in. People think "flush" is going to stir everything up and ruin the trans, that's just a myth. Have had a few vehicles that had to be driven and done again which fixed the problem.
I've been performing simple draining and filling, with WS-ATF every 30K on my 08 Camry LE. It's at 183K, still shifting smoothly.
All AISIN transmissions need my friend! 👍🏻
I’m here just to see Tinker.🐶
I don’t have one of those machines at my house. I just do pan drops. My truck calls for 45,000 mile flushes. Since I’m only doing pan drops and getting about 5 to 6 quarts out of an 11ish quart system, I do the pan drops roughly every 20,000 miles instead of 45,000 miles.
I think it depends on the vehicle. For example the Genesis 8 speed & the Ford 10 speed issues are usually fixed with a new valve body. The old 02-06 Sprinters with the NAG1 transmission had a vibration deemed the “Rumble Strip Noise” that was fixed with a new conductor plate. Some transmissions need other things if there is a TSB from the manufacturer. Unless the entire transmission is blown up, I think a universally safe start would be replacing the filter and/or pan with new OEM fluid. Some transmissions handle flushes just fine but unless it’s absolutely necessary, I think a drain & fill is safer for modern automatic transmissions especially with 8+ gears.
That rumble strip noise was horrible when it struck. I had that happening in my NAG1 equipped Hemi Charger, it'd start shuddering like crazy. First time it happened to me I was on a winding road with no shoulders and I was looking for places to ditch the car because I thought my suspension was coming apart. Tried a flush, it was worse. After years of transmission problems with that car (nasty slipping when cold, hanging gears, lurching shifts) I just got a new car as that was just the tip of the problem iceberg with that thing. Just curious, what's the Genesis 8-speed issue? I've got that transmission now and outside of some unpleasantly rough downshifts when stone cold, it seems pretty solid.
@@A2Wx8 I can’t speak to the Charger, but for the 02-06 Sprinters that Rumble Strip Noise only lasts a couple seconds and was actually built into the TCM programming to avoid clutch damage when the fluid is cold. Again I’m not sure about the Hemi but it sounds like your Hemi NAG1 was much worse as if it possibly had multiple issues combined (abuse from previous owners like repeatedly taking off from a stop or doing burnouts, torque converter shudder, low on fluid, fluid trickling down onto wiring harness, etc.)
For the 8 speed Genesis, I have the 2013 Sedan with 60k miles. I had the most common complaint for the 8 speed since Hyundai released it in 2012 - Intermittent shift flares/hard shifts/rough down shifting. Replacing the shift solenoids with new SP-IV-RR fluid solved it completely for me but there are several avenues of repairs from TSB’s that can fix it. If you go to the dealership they will say you need a new transmission which is unnecessary 99% of the time. Not enough people have the TSB info for the 8 speed and it’s sad how many times I’ve seen people post on Genesis forums/FB groups saying they paid thousands for a new transmission when it’s rarely necessary. It took me about 2 years but I scoured the internet and saved every single TSB that Hyundai has on the Genesis 8 speed and have been spreading it as much as I can on the forums and FB groups.
What if we could have manuals instead!!!
@@juliorox123 unfortunately the Charger was just kind of a lemon. I bought it new, had transmission problems from the first year I had it and was told by the dealer and Chrysler HQ that it's not going into limp or setting a code therefore it's not broken, stop whining. Drove it like that for over twelve years until the problems got too bad to deal with.
Awesome, thanks, I'll email you. I'm not having any real problems with mine save hard downshifts when cold but it's a 2019 and I know they did a big upgrade to that transmission in IIRC 2016-17 to resolve a lot of those issues you mention. Still, if they do apply they'll be good to hit the dealer with if I do have any issues down the road.
This was good because I see in other videos where they are certain that the torque converter needs to be replaced.
Def trans flushes work i am a 39 yr Ase master tech great job
I've never done a flush. Only dropping the pan and changing the filter. But I can see where doing both the filter change and flush would be beneficial. And performing a flush does aid in removing the old fluid. But you still have a dirty filter.
Quite amazing how many people cannot properly fathom "shuddering" instead of 'shuttering".
I think dropping down the pan will allow you to have a visual of what's going on inside.
Anyway GOOD JOB
Hey Sherwood, first of all great video and I think transmissions fluid changes are great if you do them on time. What do you tell customers with a higher mileage vehicle like 150,000 plus that's never been serviced and coming in with transmission issues and requesting to just change the fluid?
I had same shudder issue 2015 expedition with 100k miles , i changed out fluid after replacing the pan and filter , went through about 12 qts also added a shudder additive. The shudder is gone . What pisses me off is my ford dealer refused to service transmission telling me its lifetime fluid. 100k miles isnt a lifteime for a transmission. These modern transmissions need clean fluid , the modern torque converters leave clutch material in the fluid as miles add up
Sherwood what came to my mind was the sampling rate of the scan tool or scope used?
So I'm going to show my age -- back in the 90's Torque Converter Shudder was a common concern on the Ford 4R70W. Changing fluid from old Mercon Fluid to Mercon V fixed Shudder 95% of the time. We would change fluid and filter as well as drain converter ( Still miss not being able to do that anymore). Torque Converter Replacement on a Crown Vic - Grand Marquis - Town Car - Mark VIII paid 2.5 if I remember correctly.
I was told with newer Toyota transmission that go over 100k without service that flushing it would cause more problems as the fresh fluid would remove tarnish and debris and clog electronic shift solenoids.
Did it on my wife's van with 110k. Shifting improved significantly. I have done 3 drain and fills on it with no issues.
I remember the drain plugs on the torque converters.
4r100 was the end of that.
Excellent info--thanks, Sherwood
I’d like to see you collab with Dave’s Auto you two are great mechanics
I'm a big fan of drain and fill.. but no flush. sometimes can cause an issue.
I drained+filled and changed my Dodge Neon's transmission filter like the manuals said and it STILL went bad. I don't think the trans cooler failing; causing coolant to circulate in the trans helped much.
Why can’t you disconnect the lines from the radiator push new fluid in the transmission as it goes threw the pump and the old comes out
My 2003 ford with the 4R70W transmission has a plug on the converter. I’m still on my original transmission at 340,000 miles. I’ve had the fluid changed 3 times and I dropped the pan and changed the filter for the first time at 270k
Acuras have a "triple flush" procedure where you drain the fluid and put 3.5 quarts in let it run in gear on your lift and do that 3 times and thats the "flush" without using a machine