Brian, I changed oils from 5W-20 to 10W-30 per your recommendation on my 2005 F150. It just hit 300,000 at the time I switched. It has been running great, and seems to be stronger in power for some reason. Now at 315,000 it runs like it has only 100,000 miles, and so much power and pickup when I hit the pedal. But enough bragging on my 5.4. Now we also have a 2016 F150. Do you recommend going to a stronger weighted oil than the recommended 5W-30?
Say hey, FordTechMakuloco, recently found your channel and sure do enjoy it. For some reason my wife now believes me when I say, its time to service...our 2014 damn Ecowear F-150 has 82,000 plus on it. Already had to replace cracked plugs and an ignition pack. She just had to trade in out 2010 King Ranch for this newer Lariat. Man, do I miss that bad ass stereo it had along with the V-8. But the 2014 was newer...blah, blah,blah. I am sure to be picking your brain soon. Thank you for passing along all your knowledge sir. Regards, Doug, N.Tx.
Brian I rebuilt my 5.4L3v and used the 360hv oil pump you suggested I will be switching to 5w30 synthetic mobile 1 oil as well… what oil filter? 2006 F150 4wd! Thanks man!
Thank you for posting this. I have a 2018 2.7 F150 4x4 and I need it to last. I watched this shortly after I bought the truck and this video heavily influenced my fluid change intervals. Here is the maintenance intervals I maintain: Oil: full synthetic when the oil indicator says ~50% oil life remaining Air filter: every other oil change Rear diff, T-Case, transmission: Every 30,000 Miles Front Diff: Every 60,000 Miles Spark Plugs: Every 45,000 Miles Drive Belt: Every 60,000 Miles My truck still runs like new 6 years later and still gets the same phenomenal fuel economy, 24-26 MPG on 87. Never had an engine light. never broke down once. I did change out a bad Audio Control Module, but the nice thing about these F150's is there are so many parted out, I got a used one cheap. Plug and play. That was about a 2 beer job. I really enjoy your content.
I have always followed the "SEVERE SERVICE" intervals no matter what car I have owned. The extra money spent on maintenance is more than made up for in increased longevity.
Yes whatever there “severe” service recommendations are follow that. It’s their “cover our ass” service recommendations when you can in and say I followed the regular service interval they will tell you “you drove severely sorry on you”
I also follow the heavy use schedule. I even go beyond that. Oil is every 3 months of 5,000km. Transmission is every 2 years. Differential is every 2 years. Brake fluid is flushed every brake job. Rad fluid every 2 years. Seems to work, since my old car is at 400,000 miles. On a new vehicle, every fluid is changed at 1,500 miles, then again at 3,000.
Ok. I have to give you props. I have a 2011 F-150 Ecoboost. I follow your recommendations about fluid changes/gear oil changes/ transmission… I have had no problems with my truck other that the timing chain stretch deal. I just pulled a 8K lb camper from Michigan through the smoky mountains of Tennessee without any major issues. I give you credit for helping me maintain my truck properly! Thank you!
Damn right!!!! We flush coolant and change our transmission fluid annually, with filter, and we WITNESS THE PAN WIPE OF THE MAGNET, and our Transmission went 460,000 miles. We've changed our oil (switched to full synthetic and buy whatever is on closeout or on sale), with standard filters every 5,000 miles, and we're at 530,000+ miles. Our differential fluid, is changed every two years. BTW, our truck is a 99, F150, 5.4, 4x4. Yeah, the Ford motor mechanics tell you have oil port clogs..... Not ours. It's all about maintenance. I'm an old guy and was raised by Buick (GM) people. I was raised to hate Ford. But after so many issues with out fleet of Chevy trucks, top end and electrical issues, we took a gamble on that Ford truck and it's STILL in our fleet. Just an amazing truck that is driven hard, carrying a load, and running in bad weather. When that engine finally starts blowing oil and can't get through emissions, we'll have a funeral, with all the guys who drove her over the last 16 years. Seriously, it's the lowest cost per mile rig we've ever had.
When it goes I'd recommend buying a new motor and transmission and keeping it running till the frame disintegrates, it'll still be cheaper than buying a new truck that'll break more often
I got a 1993 ford ranger with 503.000 miles and the engine died. Loss compression and valves noise. Just due to very high miles. Transmission is still in good condition. Time to put another engine in it and keep on going. Better than automobile payments and higher insurance. Had bought the truck new. And will restore it and make it new again.
You're luck you haven't blown a spark plug out of the head... that's a common problem with the 5.4l... also, in later years, the cam phasers caused a buttload of problems... I had an 01 with the 5.4l... 374,000 miles and it wasn't the motor that killed that truck... I was lucky... know lots of people that have had to helicoil the heads.
You are so right. That’s why with the really high end cars, when you buy the separate maintenance contract, they empty the car of all fluids. Everything.
Get a local mechanic someone with good reviews or talk to your neighbors n friends . My guy is Chinese in N.Y. if he buys the part I get a 6 month replacement minus labor . Always go for oem or custom parts , never skimp out . My brother's suspension gave out buying the cheap stuff and other bad stories . You get what you Pay for . Just research your car join a forum yull be knowledgeable in no time. I'm also there in the shop looking at the work . I'm not going to hawk him the whole time but I can keep an eye on it and know he's changing something, not like those places that don't even change the oil and charge you. f it's a busy shop you should be good . My guy is always busy
I agree 100%, all the manufacturers have moved towards longer intervals & although oils have improved I feel like they are purposely setting them longer to prevent cars from achieving such high miles. As I’m sure you’ve seen plenty of older Fords can run 2 or 3 times the mileage covered under warranty, that is seen as lost profits to “bean counters”...
car reviews started adding cost of ownership with maintenance costs added into the calculation, so car companies lengthened service intervals on cars or included first year of oil changes and such to make year of ownership cost lower.
I'm convinced that everything is DESIGNED to start falling apart after the warranty is over. Greedy motors is the worst! They want everyone to buy a new car or truck ev as Ryan 5 years !
the skotty Kilmer fans here know that , my 16 Colorado changed the transmission fluid at 40k miles . the manufactures want you to break your car so you buy another one
I always recommend changing Coolant, Transmission, Brake, Power Steering, Front Diff., Rear Diff., and Transfer Case fluids every 30k miles. For oil I recommend 5k miles for full synthetic (oil filter too).
@@rrphelps “cook a caliper”? Why would you pull it off the car and put it in any of your food preparation appliances? You clearly don’t mean hard stops because I have driven in real retard lands my whole life since turning 15 and I have heated my share of rotors and still pop the cap on the reservoir and compress the pistons and if needed swap the rotors and pads then put it back on. If the caliper piston won’t compress I swap it and bleed that line after the fact. No I have never replaced my brake fluid and so far I’ve driven at least a million city miles and nothing. I had a soft line burst once but that was deterioration from age. Dry rot as it were and replaced it and everything is still good after all that. That was an interesting situation that taught me WHY we DON’T TAILGATE even if we think we’re too good to be accountable for our actions. You step in the brake and it lets go you have to be present enough to downshift into neutral and apply the parking brake also called emergency brake. I didn’t hit anyone but that event didnimpart the wisdom behind US Army defensive driving course requirement for 1 foot for EVERY MPH of travel in addition to your Mom’s “2 car lengths” so 40 feet plus 1 foot for every mile per hour of travel. I miss when police would stop you and ticket you for tailgating.
@@308dad8 Most don't, but some do. Usually guys who are into high performance driving and racing, or the handful who are really anal about maintenance. I bleed enough through to basically swap the vast majority of it every several years if I think it needs it. No real interval though. It's hygroscopic, and I don't want water sitting in there on vehicles I don't drive nearly as much as others.
If you read what is classed as 'severe condition' it's pretty much any driving that is not steady 80 kmh freeway driving on a 25 deg day. Everyday driving is 'severe conditions'
There was an study article probably 20 years or more ago in motorage I think that covered changing fluids after the first 1000 miles from new. It had nothing to do with types of fluids. It focused on the microscopic polishing compounds that are imbedded in the gears from manufacturing. The compound comes out in the first 1000 miles of break-in and is suspended in the fluid causing wear that is within the 100,000 mile target range for warranty. If the fluid was changed, it doubled the life of components. This applied to all polished metal parts. I've given this advice to anyone buying a new car that plans on keeping it until it dies. It may be an expensive initial invest with the price of synthetic fluids now but the payoff is more. Then all you have to do is fix the body rust later.
Not expensive at all, makers also factory fill with light weight oils to achieve the bogus fuel mileage claims. The oils I removed from my Hyundai at the first 5,000 km service I did were not the same grade as the Hyundai recommended service oils, go figure.
This is why we change engine oil right after a 30 minute break-in, and then again in 1000 miles, before resuming a normal schedule. The vast majority of particle shedding in a transmission is in the first 5K miles, so mine get changed there and then every 30K, or every equivalent in hours on a truck. I find hours a more accurate assessment of wear than miles for a vehicle that spends a lot of time idling, or in town in stop and go traffic, or towing at constant medium to high engine speeds, as well as my race car, in which passes down the strip matter a ton too. Generally speaking 300,000 miles = 9,000 or so hours, which works out to 33.3 miles per hour, which may be a little high for some vehicles or equipment. Marine engines are more like 2,000 hours per 100,000 mile equivalent, but it really depends on operating RPM. A jet boat isn't gonna be the same as a marine diesel for wear.
Thanks for sharing! I always cringe at these "maintenance free" or "extended service intervals." Customers defend it, but what do i know? I'm just a mechanic!
yeah i never follow that .... reason why all my cars last forever.... i change my oil every 4k synthetic on my 05 f150 and every 3k on my 07 accord ... both run awesome and no issues ! changed the trans oil and have to do the diff in another month
"The manufacturer knows best" how many times does that one come up.... Like they really care about your long term reliability. Imagine the hassle so many buyers are going to have when all these hard worked turbo engines start getting more popular in the used market... Dragging out and neglecting maintenance on a turbo vvt engine (especially trying to save money with non syn oil) will get very expensive fast. (I'm really thinking of the new 1.6 and similar little engines from honda, gm, hyundai that are being put in crossovers)
So what's your recommendation for the transmission considering most fluid is in the torque converter? Just do a drain and fill of whatever comes out of the pan & replace the filter? Multiple drain pan drop and fills?
IKR?! _"Oh, this vinyl siding is maintenance free!"_ ... 2 years later, the dark (non south/west) facing sides are mildewey. ... 5 years later, your neighbors house catches on fire and the siding on your house melts away like butter ...
I always change my F150's trans, front and rear diff etc at 40K. Have owned 7 over the years. On my 2022 F150 ONLY use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and change every 5K. They are going to bury me in this truck. 100% paid for, and in GREAT shape. Peace of mind is worth it.
I've been an auto mechanic for over 20 years. Many of the problems I see daily could have easily been avoided by simply following the vehicles maintenance schedule. I use a program on my computer called Automotive Wolf car care software to keep track of all the maintenance for my 3 cars, a truck and even a generator. It automatically can send you text message reminders when any type of service is due. Two of my vehicles have over 200,000 miles and have never needed any repairs. Want to save money? Follow your maintenance schedule!
You are a GODSEND. Man, I just bought a brand new 2023 and I am taking serious NOTES in an organized manner to really help me stick to a better maintenance schedule.
We need more good honest techs like you in this world. The manufacturers could not care if there trucks last 1 mile after the warranty period. Remember- they only stay in business if you keep buying new trucks. It’s not in there best interest to make your vehicles last longer by maintaining them properly.
I took my ‘17 F-150 in at 92k for the trans and diff services. The oil was just starting to get dark, which avoided carrying a heavy amount of contaminants. Thanks for the info! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great video! It's too bad that I followed the Ford dealership service recommendations and schedule for my 2003 Expedition Eddie Bauer. At 153,000 kilometres I had to have both front and rear differentials completely rebuilt replacing all bearings as well as new ring and pinion gears. Also, my transfer case was so damaged with all of the bearings completely burned and the chain had ground almost through the transfer case housing that it was not rebuildable. I had to have the transfer case replaced. The dealership also did not service the brakes properly by ever power flushing and bleeding the brake system. That destroyed 3 callipers and the master cylinder. At the same time I had to have all new ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, and front and rear sway bar bushings replaced. Plus, all strut shock absorbers had to be replaced. I bought my 2003 Expedition used in January 2004 with 19,000 kilometres on it and was having it dealership serviced. I stopped going to the dealership after they did a brake job on it. They forgot to lubricate the calliper sliders and did not even tighten the wheel lug nuts. I found out on the freeway when the truck was swaying all over the lane and pulled over to find that I could turn the tire iron with one finger 180 degrees on all 24 wheel nuts. When I complained to them they over torqued the wheel nuts to the point that I broke 2 deep socket and my 24 inch flex bar trying to change to my summer wheels and tires. I do not trust dealerships any more and do all work that I can myself.
Modern maintenance schedules are designed to replace parts right after warranty runs out. Cut all suggested maintenance intervals in half to hit the 300,000 mile mark.
I will agree with the additive packages wearing out, and in the case of the transmission, heat just ruins the trans fluid. The differentials are a little less of a problem. Unless you regularly over tow, or go into mud and deep water, they don't really give trouble. The f150 front differential seems to always have that yellow colored gear oil. Most claim it is from the gear marking compound from first assembly. The vent hose goes up into the engine bay, so unless it was just submarined somewhere, I'm leaning towards it not being water contaminated. A good test is to dip a paper towel in the drained out oil, and watch if a clear wet ring appears above the oil stain. Water will wick out and be visible. The inside of the rear diff gets stained by the friction modifier with clutch pack particulate. It also has a vent tube high up on the bed underside, so deep water may let moisture in.
I finally traded in my 97 Ford F-150 in May 2018 and it had 387K miles on it. The original engine and transmission still. I tried to stay up on changing the fluids and it worked.
Sadly maintenance intervals have become more a marketing gimmick and what will get the majority of vehicles out of the warranty period, rather than what will actually allow the vehicle to be reliably used for 300,000+ miles like most fleet vehicles we see everyday in our shop for ongoing routine maintenance (using our own custom service intervals for ALL fluids). A few dollars spent now on preventive maintenance has proven to reduce total overall repair costs on most of these fleet vehicles we service at our shop. I look forward to your future videos with what service intervals you recommend and see how close we are in the intervals for each of the fluids.
KCautodoctor I hear you most likely big company like where i worked before on fleet trucks are getting better on PM's ..especially on hightech vehicles.... mostly they wanted the job done. Work till it breaks attitude. ... but now safety is priority ..with the law suits now day we are human and we operate these machines
@KCautodoctor I recently traded a '01 cavalier that had 201K miles on it. The automatic trans still had the ORIGINAL fluid in it. The transmission did exhibit a slight shift delay 1st to 2nd at about 175k miles. I added 16 oz of Lucas Stop Slip and the tranny shifted almost like new. BTW, the reason I got rid of the car was that cancer was turning the rocker panels back to their natural state (too expensive to repair). After i added the Lucas I began to follow Scotty Kilmer's advice: avoid the 0-60 full throttle runs, ease up on the throttle during shifts. I honestly believe the car would have made it to the 300K mark with proper driving on the ORIGINAL TRANNY FLUID.
What kimd of vehicles are we talking about? 300k miles is half a million KMs. Nobodys car lasts that long aroumd here. Its a very rare occurence. Unless we are sleaking about diesel trucks that are highway driven 1000s of miles a week non stop.
I have a 2016 ford transit 250. The manual says it tells you when to change the oil depending on driving conditions and habits. It has oil minder or some shit. I changed the oil at 4500 miles. The light never came on. Then I ended up seeing the light come on one day. It had 21,000 miles on it!!! I already at the time was ready for my 5th oil change. That's crazy. This video is 100 percent accurate. Change fluids as much a possible.
So at my dealership I recommend changing diff and t case services and drain and fill the trans every 30k and I got scolded by management. They said I was "trying to rip customers off". I told them changing the fluids 3 times in 100k is very cheap compared to a trans or diff. Still got scolded
I mean, in fairness I can understand calling 30K excessive (especially since modern fluids hold up a lot better than the fluids of old) but I wouldn't call it a rip off for the peace of mind, only thing you'll lose doing it too much is just a few bucks from your wallet, because too little will be several thousand from the wallet
I'm late to the party, but glad these videos are still up. I'm an American living in Dubai. Just bought a 2016 Expedition with 72k miles on it here. Runs great, but I plan to do the Trans fluid myself. Getting New Ford trans filter but going with an upgraded pan that holds 4 more quarts than stock and has a drain plug. I took the filler bolt out of the Trans and dumped 2 tubes of LubeGuard in there to help re-vitalise the Trans fluid until I can get around to changing it properly. Surprisingly, the fluid is still pretty pink. Thought it would be more burnt with the heat here and those miles.
When I got my 2017 expedition and read through the manual, I got to the fluid service intervals and thought "Uhhh, yeah...I don't think so." They recommended changing the transmission fluid at 150k miles. They must just assume you'll need a new one before you even get there.
Great video - My local FordTechMakuloco mom & pop shop changes the fluids in my Crown Vic's transmission & rear end every 30K. End result: The drive train runs quiet & smooth.
Hi Brian, that transmission fluid looks like black ink. How many miles are on this vehicle? Do you recommend changing ATF in this manner on a high mileage vehicle?
Absolutely great information, common sense should tell you the manufacturer is giving bad advise because when something does blow up, they're hoping you'll go to the dealership for repairs. I've owned several new vehicles and I never go to any damned dealership for maintenance or repairs, because they'll make sure you leave with empty pockets. Listen to this man, he's trying to educate you.
Great Advise there about fluids, My dad owns a 2014 F150 , Going on 156909K Miles, he is always on the road, He has religiously changed oil at 3000k mobil 1 and has Done fluid changes at rear dif 60k and front 60K, also had transmissions fluid changes done once, ZERO issues so far! except he had to change a coil at 130K due to miss fire! Fluid change is the key
Remember that vehicles running a lot of short trips, frequent stop-and-go city driving, or towing trailers are all considered SEVERE SERVICE, and the shorter maintenance and inspection intervals recommended by manufacturers for severe service driving should be used as a starting point. This is even with the new "wonder fluids/lubricants", sealed systems or no-lube parts, etc.
Excellent video! I've always been of the mindset that changing fluids early is cheap insurance. This can apply to just about every vehicle out there. Thanks for making this!
A really good mechanic told me to change the transmission fluid every 2 years or at 20,000 miles no matter what they recommend on your vehicle, also if that model is known to have transmission problems, you might want to change it at 15,000 miles And never do the transmission flush oil change, drop the pan n change the filter also, dropping the pan you will only be changing some fluid n not all, but since you are doing it so early it will be enough, Doing transmission flushes can cause many vehicles problems at times- while sometimes it dont By doing this your transmission will last way longer unless some part in it goes bad or breaks, or if you drive it real ruff If you buy a used vehicle it depends how you change the transmission fluid, dont do a flush though, you might want to only change 1 quart at a time, all depends on the owners before you when they changed it n at what miles, sometimes dirty transmission oil with the stuff in it keeps the transmission going better And people change your brake fluid n power steering fluid when your suppose to or a little bit early, also the radiator fluid When buying a used car after checking it out n make sure it is good n worth putting money into, change all the fluids unless they are good, but with transmission fluid decide what to do under the circumstances of it past maintenance Also do oil changes at right mileage n amount of time, now if you dont drive much n oil is good you can go probably 4 or 5 months instead of 3 N people study stuff on fluid changes so you know more, n after someone changes your fluids check to see if it was done unless you cant with some like the transmission fluid .
I bought a car years ago with 200k miles on it. I changed the trans fluid using the cooler line disconnect method and emptied the fluid into like 5 gallon hugs that sat for a year before I emptied them. This trans fluid was black like diesel oil, and when I finally emptied the jugs a thick film of gunk was left on the bottoms of the first few! I don't think the fluid was ever changed. It was the only vehicle I've owned where I've changed the trans fluid and felt it shift dramatically better.
My question when they say "lifetime fluid" is always what exactly constitutes "lifetime?" The length of the warranty? 100K miles? No manufacturer ever defines that when they claim something is lifetime. I like to ask my customers if they're the type that buys a new vehicle every 3-5 years or if they want to keep it 10-20 years and get 200-300K miles or more out of it. Makes a big difference in terms of how they'll want to maintain the vehicle. Great video sir!
Lifetime transmission fluid is supposed to last the service life of the transmission. Dexron IV is stable for 200,000 kilometers based on the documentation I've seen. The newer fluid can last even longer.
@@brarautorepairs The problem with that is no manufacturer will come out and say what they expect the lifetime of their transmission to be. So you're left trusting that their definition matches yours. Additionally, vehicles are operated under a wide variety of conditions, climates, use cases, etc. That makes a one size fits all service interval far less realistic. Some manufacturers have different schedules published and some don't. I can't see leaving the fluid in any transmission for 200,000 Kilometers without at least taking periodic samples and sending them to a lab for analysis. Even then, I'd be willing to bet it doesn't hold up as well as they claim under real world testing. I'd prefer to service my vehicles at reasonable intervals, and have the peace of mind that I'm making an effort to maximize the life of their components. That's just me.
MOTHER OF GOD. That valve body it's the size of the Sun(7 Solenoids ? WTF ?) and yes, that ATF it's pretty nasty. I say it now and will keep on saying it: OEMs are in the business of SELLING YOU cars and trucks, not helping you keep it around for 10 years or more, there's no money making for them if you keep your vehicle for that long. My personal case: Nissan recommends CHECKING . . . NOT CHANGING . . . JUST CHECKING the quality of the CVT fluid AT 60K. Are you F&^%$ing kidding me, Nissan ? I'm flushing that thing at 20K or less, fuck the OEMs and their vile maintenance intervals. Especially Nissan and their "Silly Putty" CVTs. Thanks, Mr Brian . . . you're a life saver ! Even tho I don't own a FORD but I love learning new stuff. Keep up the good work !
FordTech, I'm now even more skeptical of buying a used vehicle in this day and time. The only real guarantee that you're not going to buy a used up piece of junk is to buy a new vehicle or one with extremely low mileage and then that one may be for sale because it's a lemon. It's a rare thing to have the documentation of the service history on something used. I can imagine what I would have to go through to insure that a used vehicle of interest is not going to be a POS. As you know most used car and truck sales outlets have had the fluids already changed out so you won't know if it's been neglected or not until you've had it for a while. Then even if the fluids have been changed you don't know if they put the correct fluids back in. I'd like to say thanks for producing some really informative videos. I've been retired from the profession for quite a while and I'm a Ford man to boot. You're about the only outlet that I have to help me keep up with the newer Ford vehicles and I really appreciate it.
I got pretty lucky when we bought my car, was elderly owned and came with full service history. Now unfortunately the fuel pump went out from having been sitting a while, but got that replaced and it's been great driving ever since (2006 Saturn Ion, 157K miles, 2.2L 5 speed manual)
I've never believed ANY manufacturer that boasts of "lifetime" fluids. Especially when the transmission is concerned. Use synthetic fluids whenever possible, not because of the extended change intervals, but because they are a better product in extreme conditions (hot or cold). Or....do whatever you want, it's your vehicle not mine. :D
Thanks for reinforcing what I’ve been saying lol. I’ve changed my trans fluid and diff fluids at 60,000 miles. People thought I was crazy. I said it’s about advertising low maintenance intervals and not necessarily the best for longevity of the vehicle.
I just scheduled my first transmission service, at the local Ford dealership, for my 2016 Fusion SE with the 1.5 Ecoboost. The car has 120,000 miles on it. The guy in the service department said he wants to change the fluid, but not the filter. The reason he gave is that when the filter is changed, not all the fluid is replaced, but if it's just fluid, all of it gets replaced. He said he recommends a filter change at 150,000 miles. I can't say I have a good feeling about it.
I live in South Texas. Where it floods very easy. People drive there vechicles through deep waters. Once you put that axle under water. The axle vent acts like. Sticking a empty bottle under water, it fills up. Thats what you just did to your axle gear oil as shown here on the front axle. Jeeps come factory but off road yuys. Get a piece of hose and move that vent into the bed of the truck also the engine compartment. Once that vent goes under water, you are gonna take on water in the axle and contaminant your axle oil.
In 2016 in Australia a new Consumer Law was passed covering warranties. We already saw factory warranties go out to five years in response to Asian manufacturuers like Toyota, Lexus and Nissan all offering 5 year factory warranties and free scheduled servicing. Nissan went one better and pushed their warranties out to seven years. Then Hyundai too. At the end of 2017 Ford Australia made a decision to not sell passenger cars here and only SUVs and trucks. I understand thats also happening in Europe too where EU warranties have also pushed out to 7 years. When the exiting CEO of Ford Australia said that the only profitable part of selling cars was servicing, everyone was shocked. Now warranties and free servicing have taken that profit away too.
I'm pretty sure since the early 2000's here in the United States of America that Ford moved all their car manufacturing to Mexico. I sometimes use this at parties or at the bar; I asked a giving person how many privately held American automakers are still making cars in this country. Of course, the answer is 0. Toyota, Honda, and Nissan, they make cars here in America but they are Japanese companies. Government Motors is still bought out by Obama. I haven't known whose owned Chrysler Corporation for over a decade but I know isn't an American company. And Ford makes their cars in Mexico. The answer is 0.
Its crazy how people dont and werent taught how to take care of your fluids and do it often. Runs smoother, happier, cooler, all of it. Keeping my fluids clean and of the highest quality is one of my favorite hobbies. Amsoil.
I have a Ford Taurus with heat issues and after I have seen the design on the heater hoses and a two piece lower radiator hose I'm convinced Ford should have their engineers drug tested. Its crazy how they build these things.
Most car companies have a single engineer who's job is to look at an easy to make and fix engine layout and ask the question of "how can we fuck this shit up so its hard to repair?". Well as much as I like Ford (serious fanboy) they happen to have 3 per team lol.
good advise! My short story: 2009 Ram 1500 4x4 HEMI, never towed anything, no off-roading. always do R. Diff, T. Case, AT & F. Diff at 40k miles, just recently at 140,000 miles started getting noise [like a bearing whirl]. Luckily I have the Lifetime to 1st buyer engine & power-train warranty $0 deductible as well as a Lifetime MaxCare extended warranty w/Mopar $100 deductable. In the end dealership did $3800 complete rear diff/axle rebuild in three days for $0. I needed to show I changed the fluid in it at least twice [receipt]. Dont know what happened to cause the failure, BUT as much as I won this time I bet a lot of folks get burned b/c the neglected maintenance.
For the 2020 model year lineup, Ford will be introducing the long awaited “Lifetime Fuel”- the full tank of gas it initially comes with will last you a lifetime. Ford is so confident that they deleted any way to fuel the car yourself.
This reminds me of those automatic transmissions that don't have a dip stick and a way to add fluid. Whose idea was that? Absolutely not a vehicle for me!
Good advice. I installed a 4wd trans pan on my 4R100 Lightning that gave it an extra quart and drain plug. I drain the pan every year and top it off with 6 qts of Mercon. I also syringe the brake fluid out of the master cylinder and replace with every oil change. Diff every 5 years.
I've been looking for a lower milage gen 5 f350 for a few years and was contemplating giving in a purchasing a new 7.3 godzilla. You helped me make up my mind. I'll stick with the gen 5 I can maintain at home, and get another 20 years use out of it.
just bought my first ford im actually excited to be doing all the maintenance been watching all your videos for about a week now thanks for all the help ! God bless
He speaks the truth. My 2004 5.4 3v 4x4 was originally owned by oil field guy who fully serviced diffs, transfer case, transmission every 40k miles (per carfax and previous owner). I got it in 2010 with 130k it now has more than 260k miles on original drivetrain and even timing set. Really makes the difference if you are planning to keep one around for the long haul
I always thought Ford was crazy saying 150k. I do 30k switch outs for trans, transfer case, and diffs. I also swap out brake fluid around that time as well. 40-50k coolant switch as well. I change oil every 5k. Thanks for proving my point even further 😁
Dot3 Brake fluid will absorb water. Each year it absorbs about 20% water so after about 5 years your brake fluid is mostly water. The air in the water will compress which gives you a spongy brake pedal and if your brake fluid is old and get heated up it can boil which causes brake fade.
Another Great Video Brian . 100% agree with you to do ALL car fluids much much sooner than most car manufacturers recommend . If anyone sees the latest car manufacturer's " lifetime fluid " ... disregard that false statement and service it . My regime on 2012 Ford Focus with dps6 auto transmission is ... ALL fluids are Full Synthetic , Engine Oil 5,000 km or 6 months whichever comes first . Dual Clutch Transmission ( DPS6 ) with internal trans axle 50,000 km or 5 years whichever comes first . Power Steering Fluid ( Full Drain and refill ) at 50,000km or 5 years whichever comes first . Radiator Coolant ( Drain and Refill ) with extended life coolant at 50,000km or 5 years whichever comes first . Brake Fluid ( Drain and Refill ) at 40,000km or 4 years whichever comes first . P.S . Here in Australia our measurements are in KM not Miles . Brian Thanks again for your wisdom and insight and i'm glad your actually showing the excessive wear and damage that lies ahead on vehicle's and customer's who choose to follow dubious car manufacturer's service intervals which are designed to kill your car slowly so you can keep buying parts and new cars from car makers .
Great video. I have a truck of a different brand,Lol. Just turned over 400 k . Finally had to do the transmission rebuild due to the bearing for the torque converter going out and contaminated a pump seal. The 700 r4 case looked like new,all the parts looked near new. Pump lost pressure . New pump and a complete rebuild kit. Like new again. I always change my transmission fluid every 2 years. It pays off in the long run. Engine oil every 3 k Dif every 2 years. 1990 1500 4x4 Not complaining about 400 thousand miles of use. Take care of your investment!!!!!!!
I had quite a tough time convincing our Ford dealership to do a drain & fill on the 6F35 in our C-Max. Ford claims it is lifetime filled... I asked them to do a drain & fill at 35.000km (22k miles) because I wanted the first change done early after the break-in period. After this one it will be done every 50.000km (31k miles) from now.
I own a 2003 Ford Taurus with just over 575,000 miles on original Vulcan 3.0L V-6 and A4XS automatic transmission. Bought the car used with 51000 miles. (No rebuilds to date). It's been a daily driver with freeway, mountain and city driving during a normal commuter work week. Still runs well and a pleasure to drive on city streets, mountain roads and freeways. Oil and filter change interval is 4000 miles (every 4-6 weeks on the average) or every 3 months (3000 miles) during this pandemic season. Oil is always Motorcraft semi-syn 5W-20/5W-30 and a Motorcraft oil filter. No sign of coking and only minor discoloration in the filler neck. Transmission fluid and filter change interval is annual with 36000-40000 per year for nearly all years. Vehicle survived a few rock strikes on mountain roads (trans pan, gasket and fluid replaced), debris strikes on freeways (power steering cooler replaced), and a few low-speed bumper thumpers on both ends (bumps and scrapes). Other casualties are 2 radiators and upper/lower hoses, 1 coolant reservoir and return hose, 1 a/c compressor, 1 water pump, 3 starters, 6 rebuilt alternators, 1 power steering pump & reservoir, 2 cat-convertors, 2 MAF sensors, 3 sets of HV wires, 5 sets of spark plugs, and 4-5 sets of brakes (including 1 master cylinder and 2 sets of disk calipers), 2 sets of inner/outer tie rods and 2 sets of struts. Power steering rack and front axle shafts are also the originals. Note, I don't thrash or baby my vehicles and do much of the fluid, engine tune-up/repair, and brake parts replacement in my garage at home. Track record with 2 Taurus models (1999 SE and 2003 SE) is 837,000+ miles with 2003 model still running strong and reliable. True story and I'm sticking with it.
Thumbs up for being honest .car manufacturers are hoping for these failures to bring in shop money .oil is cheap hard parts will melt your credit cards. I have been recommending 15,000 mile service for trucks towing heavy trailers and how fast the oil dirties up.👍
I can't even remove my transmission pan. Two bolts are blocked by a crossmember bracket. The filter needs to be changed but the only thing I've been able to do is pump some old fluid out and put new fluid in
I am a Chevy Guy, used to work as a Tech at Chevy, and Drive a Silverado (2007.5 Silverado Extended Cab LTZ 4x4 with the 5.3). I always change out my --Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid, Engine Coolant every 60,000 miles --Transmission Fluid/Filter, Front/Rear Diff Fluid, and Transfer Case Fluid every 30,000 miles. --Engine Oil (Using Mobil 1 Annual Performance 5W-30 and Matching Filter) every 5-8,000 miles, depending on how to the truck is used, such as Towing, Hauling, Stop-N-Go Traffic, Highway. This is how I do it, and would recommended to Customers with a Silverado, and it works. I am currently a Mechanic for the Company I work for, and they have a 50/50 Mix of F-150's and Silveraods, and they all get serviced the same.
Speaking about fluids and such, why not post a video on hybrid brake fluid? Im sure there is a very careful technique to do this. Some shop did my brakes now I have no brakes. They cant figure out why my brakes are gone and now I am 7 months without my truck. (08 ford escape). I spoke with my friend that lives in another state that has a shop and told me they had to use a brake bleeder pressure tool that can put 30 psi in order to properly bleed my brakes and he thinks that is my problem. That they replaced the pads without disconnecting the battery or using a scanner and allowed the brake system to energize and cause air to get in my ABS unit. I want to just pick up my truck and do it myself, its frustrating not having my truck!
Thx for the info. I just bought a 2010 Ling Ranch with 145000 one owner miles big reason I bought this one is cause owner did an excellent job of maintaining it wit reg oil and all fluid replacements
You are so correct sir I was taught by the best my father he was a truck master in the US Army for 20 plus years...And I always do PM (preventive maintenance) on all my vehicles in my household ,all are over 12-16 plus years old with above average milage and all run and look great,while most of my neighbors buy or lease new cars every 3-4 years with high payments..in my opinion it's so much more cost effective to buy a car u love, pay it off and take care of it with PM and love..lol...oh my love is my 72 El Comino which is not a trailer queen and will drive anywhere in this great country of ours to where I point it to...but that's a different story lol....thxx for sharing ur video....
It's not just Ford. I have a supposed "maintenance free" transmission in my car. I'm going to change out the fluid and filter and add a super duty transmission cooler at 60,000 miles (probably next year). I'm just a do-it-yourselfer, but in my experience, automatic transmissions are the weak point on virtually every car made after about 1990. After a ton of research, I found that anywhere from 1/3 to 2/3 of automatic transmission failures are due to inadequate cooling. A $20 cooling kit from Oreilly's or Auto Zone remedies that, and regular fluid and filter changes takes care of most of the other problems. And power flushing transmissions will destroy them. I used to have a '99 Chrysler 300M with the 3.5L V6. I put in a super duty cooling kit and stayed on top of maintenance (including water pump and timing belt at 200,000 miles). When the engine developed a rod knock at 213,000 miles, the transmission was still running like clockwork. Same thing with the Torqueflite in my '79 Dodge pickup. No power flush; just fluid and filter changes periodically. When I bought that truck in the 90's, the engine was so worn out that I was putting in a quart of oil every week. I did an engine rebuild on it. Just kept doing fluid and filter changes on the transmission, and it's still going strong. Original transmission, bought the truck from the original owner.
My uncle had a '98 Ram that he beefed up the cooling on since he lived in the south, lasted 350K miles before it even started having an issue (I don't believe he did many fluid/filter changes)
I just purchased a 2014 F150 4x4 super crew cab with 135,000 miles on it. It was originally owned by the PA Transportation dept. for the first 80,000 miles. After that is was owned by a person. I’m doing all fluid changes as I’m not sure who did what. Hoping for the best. Thanks for the video
I agree. I once needed an in warranty leak on my transmission repaired. I told the dealership to change the filter at the same time. They tried to tell me there was no need but I insisted and paid for the filter myself. If the transmission is open why not change the filter at the same time?
You are so right about regular maintenance. Not only do I try to perform all maintenance on my cars and trucks, but all of my farm equipment as well which has earned me the nick name " Over Kill Will" but I guess that is why I always have a line of people wanting to buy any of my vehicles or equipment whenever I am ready to get rid of them.
My 05 Ford ranger 2.3 L oil change 3000 to 3500 miles is at 424000 miles. At 250,000 bottom end motor knock. Changed to heavy oil 15 40 and Lucas oil treatment. Knock sound low . Never smoked or loss power. Sadly second auto trans died. Truck nice , very little rust. All my original Ford components made it to 200,000 to 300,000 miles. Recently oil in spark plug wells and engine miss fire. Great product.
BTW: Put Synthetics in everything including the diff's, you wont be disappointed! My truck drives the same at -30° as it does on a 75° sunny spring day!
I do fluids and filters twice as often as recommended. Old fluids just become polishing compounds as they break down and accrue contaminants. Bushings, vales and bearing surfaces and gear surfaces don't need a steady diet of polishing compound. That doesn't end well! Thanks for making this clear here! This word needs spread.
By around 2000, vehicles had become so reliable that sales of new vehicles had dropped relative to expectations of auto makers. What I have noticed are two things. An increase in unreliable expensive electronics and longer maintenance intervals. Both of which will severely limit the number of reliable miles a car can go. If you changed the oil and trans fluid in a 2000 Honda Civic enough, it was not uncommon for one of those to go a quarter million miles. Of course, that meant changing trans fluid at 24K miles and oil at 3.5K miles. Now, they have you wait several times as long between fluid changes and in some cases say not to even change the so called 'life time' fluid. And guess what. Reliability, especially high mileage reliability has plummeted. Basically, if you follow most auto manufacturer's regular service intervals on a post 2012 made car, it will get you just out of the warranty period and then stuff will begin happening. People who are really finding this out are people who are buying late model used cars with much over 50K miles on them.
Some people buy new vehicles n drive them a few years or after a certain mileage is on them n then trade it in for a brand new vehicle before major stuff can go wrong with them after it hits a certain mileage N if they get one that starts having major problems early they trade it in right away for a new one So people understand that many used vehicles out there have problems with them n it isnt worth fixing or it cant be fixed
So how often should we be changing differential oil? Transfer case fluid? My Saturn has 318,800 miles and I changed the transmission fluid at 120,000 miles. Still red and doesn’t smell burned. Still rockin that same clutch too. But engine oil is every 3000 miles or when the oil gets dark whichever is first
@@robertcampbell5485 I have a1990 Mustang with a manual transmission and I was told it uses type F ATF. It only has 10K miles on it so I have yet to change that fluid but due to age I want to this year and I guess I will find out what is in there when I pump it out. My 2014 Infiniti Q60S and my 2004 Nissan 350Z both use more normal manual transmission gear oil in both the transmission and differential. I just use the fluid type the manufacturer calls for in both the transmission and differential.
Very well-done review and video production in general. You were well prepared with notes in hand, quick and on-point, but not too quick... thanks for sharing. - Just a thought about the fog lamps not coming on with the high beams. That can be remedied by your Ford tech with a click of a button on his computer the next time you're in for service. Those of us living in rural and/or mountainous country, we need to be able to throw all the light we can down the road to help avoid deer, elk, moose and the occasional cow or horse on the road. - Regarding the 3.5L EB vs 5.0L V8... For those on a limited or fixed income (a lot of us older folks, like me) might need to consider the added cost of maintenance required on the 3.5L EB compared to the 5.0L over its lifetime which can be considerable. I tow an 8,500 pound, 36-foot RV camper but usually over flat land or rolling hills in Oklahoma and Missouri where the 5.0L will perform just fine, even admirably.
This is probably the best advice you could ever receive- The manufacturers concept of "lifetime fluids" is self interested to the warranty expiration (50,000 miles). Modern lubricants are hydroscopic and as the seals age, have a tendency to allow for even more water intrusion, as time goes by.
Agreed. If you read the details driving your vehicle anywhere on the North American continent is "Severe Duty". That's how Dodge got out of paying for 10s (100s?) of thousands of failed 2.7 V6 engines that failed by people following the "normal duty" schedule.
@@danthurston5264 Same in Australia, our hot climate automatically makes it severe use. Manufacturers still sell cars promising 10 - 12 K miles service intervals, sigh.
Ty..for this my dad had a service station.for 40 yrs..i still go his advice..i have a 2016 ford fusion..my trans went out last mo at 055.mi. Just befor warr expired s...they rebuilt it ..covard..warr.. It would of been 6 grand to rebuild..i use full syn oil..5w20 motercraft..oil ..i change it every 4 thou mi..since new..myself..plugs i changed at 50 thou mi as well .not at a 100 thou.mi. never..fuild chang out is alot cheaper..then rebuilding a moter..or a trans .great advice on your videos..i do love my ford....i miss the service station...busness..by gone days..we had 5 bays and a car wash...my dad made millions..by his retirement..had alot of the same customer s for 40 yrs..he opened in 1957..with money he saved from being in the navy..we owend the property..i say those were the good old days of servicing cars ..
Long time ago had a Chevy truck owners manual said tranny flush every 30000, transfer case every 30000-40000 miles and rear diff every 75000 to 100000. Depends on if you use for work or daily drive. I can say that I followed all of there recommendations and the vehicle still drives today with over 300000k! I have done this for all my trucks and sports cars ford only and I have never had an issue. The only thing I disagree with is the brake recommendations 50000k don’t think I’ve ever seen brakes last that long up here in new England
This is why in my 2014 f150 I change the engine oil every 3,000 miles and trans fluid and filter every 30,000 miles and the diffs and transfer case fluid every 30,000 miles
Yep. I don’t buy that 7,000 or 25,000 synthetic motor oil change claims ether. When I bought my sister’s 2003 Land Rover, I immediately changed ALL fluids. Changed all filters. Sealed up all the leaks. And now it’s got 160,000+ miles and going. Despite their reputation as being unreliable. A lot of the maintenance issues on cars, are simply derived from neglect or forgoing basic maintenance, such as fluids. That includes brakes, power steering fluid and engine coolant. Thanks for the video.
Excellent advice. It’s nice that u support Ford when they’re right, and u call them out when they r wrong. They make very nice vehicles. But they r slow to correct some big problems. Which I have learned on this channel. Btw, hows your Dodge eco diesel running?
We just bought a 2014 escape with 112,000 miles, surprisingly it came with a 1000 mile 30 day warranty which gave me peace of mind. About 2 weeks in I noticed it developed a rough shift. Called up the dealer and scheduled an appointment. Now they're telling me that it needs a transmission. I had asked if they checked the fluid level they said no because it was sealed transmission and there was no leaks. So without any further investigation after their own 10 mile test drive they assumed it needs a another transmission. To my surprise they're only giving me a used one. Makes me very nervous.
A GM engineer coined the phrase" intended OBSOLESENCE". They don't want your vehicle to last more than a few years, they want you back in the dealership real soon, Don't run the 75w-85 diff lube in the rear axle of the newer F-150. That's for CAFE standards ONLY .and gas mileage. Axle failure is known to happen. Use 75w-140
look up planned obsolescence on Wikipedia. Also when Henry Ford first started mass producing vehicles he told his engineers to go to the junkyards and pull engines to see what parts were still good and change them so as to not last so long, only as long as the parts that would fail first.
Agree on the rear differential oil. Never knew how hot that was getting until I towed and had a flat. I crawled under the truck to put the jack under the rear differential (was rotating some tires around) and touched the damned thing. I still have the scar on my hand.
Just changed trans fluid on a 2013, truck had 155000 miles and never changed, it had intermittent solenoid codes, I changed black fluid with vavoline super max lv with new filter, cleared codes and truck shifts and rides better. Hopefully I caught it in time before I had to change the lead frame.
Yeah like the “lifetime” PTU fluid on my 2011 Ford Edge.... NOT TRUE! I change it every year... looks like molasses every year! 125k mi... no issues 👍🏻
Tavis Kaczanowski Depending on the year there may be a drain plug, ‘15+ I think. On mine there is only a fill plug... use a fluid evacuator to suck out all the fluid you can, then refill. I had to do it 3 times the first time to get all the crap fluid out.
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Fluid Service Intervals I Recommend:
ruclips.net/video/WaPJJ3hUHN0/видео.html
Brian, I changed oils from 5W-20 to 10W-30 per your recommendation on my 2005 F150. It just hit 300,000 at the time I switched. It has been running great, and seems to be stronger in power for some reason. Now at 315,000 it runs like it has only 100,000 miles, and so much power and pickup when I hit the pedal. But enough bragging on my 5.4. Now we also have a 2016 F150. Do you recommend going to a stronger weighted oil than the recommended 5W-30?
Say hey, FordTechMakuloco, recently found your channel and sure do enjoy it. For some reason my wife now
believes me when I say, its time to service...our 2014 damn Ecowear F-150 has 82,000 plus on it. Already had
to replace cracked plugs and an ignition pack. She just had to trade in out 2010 King Ranch for this newer Lariat.
Man, do I miss that bad ass stereo it had along with the V-8. But the 2014 was newer...blah, blah,blah. I am sure
to be picking your brain soon. Thank you for passing along all your knowledge sir.
Regards, Doug, N.Tx.
Hello Brian, do you also recommend the 5W-30 for the ford 3.5 ti vct NA? Thanks in advance
B bbb BH
Brian I rebuilt my 5.4L3v and used the 360hv oil pump you suggested I will be switching to 5w30 synthetic mobile 1 oil as well… what oil filter? 2006 F150 4wd!
Thanks man!
Thank you for posting this. I have a 2018 2.7 F150 4x4 and I need it to last. I watched this shortly after I bought the truck and this video heavily influenced my fluid change intervals. Here is the maintenance intervals I maintain:
Oil: full synthetic when the oil indicator says ~50% oil life remaining
Air filter: every other oil change
Rear diff, T-Case, transmission: Every 30,000 Miles
Front Diff: Every 60,000 Miles
Spark Plugs: Every 45,000 Miles
Drive Belt: Every 60,000 Miles
My truck still runs like new 6 years later and still gets the same phenomenal fuel economy, 24-26 MPG on 87. Never had an engine light. never broke down once. I did change out a bad Audio Control Module, but the nice thing about these F150's is there are so many parted out, I got a used one cheap. Plug and play. That was about a 2 beer job. I really enjoy your content.
I have always followed the "SEVERE SERVICE" intervals no matter what car I have owned.
The extra money spent on maintenance is more than made up for in increased longevity.
tbh even if it didnt an engine blowing up can be unsafe and pretty inconvenient lmao
Yes whatever there “severe” service recommendations are follow that. It’s their “cover our ass” service recommendations when you can in and say I followed the regular service interval they will tell you “you drove severely sorry on you”
I also follow the heavy use schedule. I even go beyond that. Oil is every 3 months of 5,000km. Transmission is every 2 years. Differential is every 2 years. Brake fluid is flushed every brake job. Rad fluid every 2 years. Seems to work, since my old car is at 400,000 miles. On a new vehicle, every fluid is changed at 1,500 miles, then again at 3,000.
Especially if you live in a dusty and dirty environment. That's what a lot of people never factor in.
As my pop says. Oil is cheaper then iron.
Amen.
100% agree, based on personal experience.
Yep !
Wyr
God bless
Not really true.
@Fire Vic1979 He said Iron, not an engine
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)╭∩╮
Ok. I have to give you props. I have a 2011 F-150 Ecoboost. I follow your recommendations about fluid changes/gear oil changes/ transmission…
I have had no problems with my truck other that the timing chain stretch deal.
I just pulled a 8K lb camper from Michigan through the smoky mountains of Tennessee without any major issues.
I give you credit for helping me maintain my truck properly! Thank you!
Damn right!!!! We flush coolant and change our transmission fluid annually, with filter, and we WITNESS THE PAN WIPE OF THE MAGNET, and our Transmission went 460,000 miles. We've changed our oil (switched to full synthetic and buy whatever is on closeout or on sale), with standard filters every 5,000 miles, and we're at 530,000+ miles. Our differential fluid, is changed every two years. BTW, our truck is a 99, F150, 5.4, 4x4. Yeah, the Ford motor mechanics tell you have oil port clogs..... Not ours. It's all about maintenance. I'm an old guy and was raised by Buick (GM) people. I was raised to hate Ford. But after so many issues with out fleet of Chevy trucks, top end and electrical issues, we took a gamble on that Ford truck and it's STILL in our fleet. Just an amazing truck that is driven hard, carrying a load, and running in bad weather. When that engine finally starts blowing oil and can't get through emissions, we'll have a funeral, with all the guys who drove her over the last 16 years. Seriously, it's the lowest cost per mile rig we've ever had.
When it goes I'd recommend buying a new motor and transmission and keeping it running till the frame disintegrates, it'll still be cheaper than buying a new truck that'll break more often
I got a 1993 ford ranger with 503.000 miles and the engine died. Loss compression and valves noise. Just due to very high miles. Transmission is still in good condition. Time to put another engine in it and keep on going. Better than automobile payments and higher insurance. Had bought the truck new. And will restore it and make it new again.
if every one is like you the car companies will go out of business
awesome!
You're luck you haven't blown a spark plug out of the head... that's a common problem with the 5.4l... also, in later years, the cam phasers caused a buttload of problems... I had an 01 with the 5.4l... 374,000 miles and it wasn't the motor that killed that truck... I was lucky... know lots of people that have had to helicoil the heads.
Changing fluids is #1 best preventive maintenance.
You are so right. That’s why with the really high end cars, when you buy the separate maintenance contract, they empty the car of all fluids. Everything.
Truth
Or just adding a higher grade of viscosity of gear oil.. all facts
@@BeastmodeBeats I wouldn't say this is an or statement
@@freakyfrank1549 I’m just telling you what I know works from other people’s experience and my own personally.
Problem is finding an honest mechanic so you don’t have to take it to the stealer-ship for service.🦄👍👍
The only way to know you're not getting screwed and that the work is getting done right is to do your own maintenance
Such a stupid attitude. Just because you don't know how to do something doesn't make your mechanic a thief.
Get a local mechanic someone with good reviews or talk to your neighbors n friends . My guy is Chinese in N.Y. if he buys the part I get a 6 month replacement minus labor . Always go for oem or custom parts , never skimp out . My brother's suspension gave out buying the cheap stuff and other bad stories . You get what you Pay for . Just research your car join a forum yull be knowledgeable in no time. I'm also there in the shop looking at the work . I'm not going to hawk him the whole time but I can keep an eye on it and know he's changing something, not like those places that don't even change the oil and charge you. f it's a busy shop you should be good . My guy is always busy
"Honest mechanic..." LOL!!!! There's no such thing!!!
@@couchwarrior2449 your username really says a lot
I agree 100%, all the manufacturers have moved towards longer intervals & although oils have improved I feel like they are purposely setting them longer to prevent cars from achieving such high miles. As I’m sure you’ve seen plenty of older Fords can run 2 or 3 times the mileage covered under warranty, that is seen as lost profits to “bean counters”...
car reviews started adding cost of ownership with maintenance costs added into the calculation, so car companies lengthened service intervals on cars or included first year of oil changes and such to make year of ownership cost lower.
I'm convinced that everything is DESIGNED to start falling apart after the warranty is over. Greedy motors is the worst! They want everyone to buy a new car or truck ev as Ryan 5 years !
@@user-pv8cf6pq1m Then they shun at vehicle owner's for doing preventative maintenance because they do not want the car to last you 10+ years.
the skotty Kilmer fans here know that , my 16 Colorado changed the transmission fluid at 40k miles . the manufactures want you to break your car so you buy another one
Nope, the EPA doesn't want those nasty fluids, but building whole new cars is fine I guess.
Yeah,, That's about right.
@@DragNetJoe got em
Scotty is trash haha
@@Chris-gw4zp He’s crazy, but his mechanical advice is among the best you can get anywhere. I’m a mechanic, I should know. You, on the other hand...
I always recommend changing Coolant, Transmission, Brake, Power Steering, Front Diff., Rear Diff., and Transfer Case fluids every 30k miles. For oil I recommend 5k miles for full synthetic (oil filter too).
Nobody changes brake fluid. You bleed and top off when needed and that’s that
@@308dad8 unless you cook a caliper and you have a situation where it has boiled. Then you replace it.
@@rrphelps “cook a caliper”? Why would you pull it off the car and put it in any of your food preparation appliances? You clearly don’t mean hard stops because I have driven in real retard lands my whole life since turning 15 and I have heated my share of rotors and still pop the cap on the reservoir and compress the pistons and if needed swap the rotors and pads then put it back on. If the caliper piston won’t compress I swap it and bleed that line after the fact. No I have never replaced my brake fluid and so far I’ve driven at least a million city miles and nothing. I had a soft line burst once but that was deterioration from age. Dry rot as it were and replaced it and everything is still good after all that. That was an interesting situation that taught me WHY we DON’T TAILGATE even if we think we’re too good to be accountable for our actions. You step in the brake and it lets go you have to be present enough to downshift into neutral and apply the parking brake also called emergency brake. I didn’t hit anyone but that event didnimpart the wisdom behind US Army defensive driving course requirement for 1 foot for EVERY MPH of travel in addition to your Mom’s “2 car lengths” so 40 feet plus 1 foot for every mile per hour of travel. I miss when police would stop you and ticket you for tailgating.
@@308dad8 Most don't, but some do. Usually guys who are into high performance driving and racing, or the handful who are really anal about maintenance. I bleed enough through to basically swap the vast majority of it every several years if I think it needs it. No real interval though. It's hygroscopic, and I don't want water sitting in there on vehicles I don't drive nearly as much as others.
That’s a bit overkill
In Canada, following the “severe conditions” as per owner’s manual is not frequent enough.
If you read what is classed as 'severe condition' it's pretty much any driving that is not steady 80 kmh freeway driving on a 25 deg day. Everyday driving is 'severe conditions'
There was an study article probably 20 years or more ago in motorage I think that covered changing fluids after the first 1000 miles from new. It had nothing to do with types of fluids. It focused on the microscopic polishing compounds that are imbedded in the gears from manufacturing. The compound comes out in the first 1000 miles of break-in and is suspended in the fluid causing wear that is within the 100,000 mile target range for warranty. If the fluid was changed, it doubled the life of components. This applied to all polished metal parts. I've given this advice to anyone buying a new car that plans on keeping it until it dies. It may be an expensive initial invest with the price of synthetic fluids now but the payoff is more. Then all you have to do is fix the body rust later.
Not expensive at all, makers also factory fill with light weight oils to achieve the bogus fuel mileage claims. The oils I removed from my Hyundai at the first 5,000 km service I did were not the same grade as the Hyundai recommended service oils, go figure.
This is why we change engine oil right after a 30 minute break-in, and then again in 1000 miles, before resuming a normal schedule. The vast majority of particle shedding in a transmission is in the first 5K miles, so mine get changed there and then every 30K, or every equivalent in hours on a truck. I find hours a more accurate assessment of wear than miles for a vehicle that spends a lot of time idling, or in town in stop and go traffic, or towing at constant medium to high engine speeds, as well as my race car, in which passes down the strip matter a ton too. Generally speaking 300,000 miles = 9,000 or so hours, which works out to 33.3 miles per hour, which may be a little high for some vehicles or equipment. Marine engines are more like 2,000 hours per 100,000 mile equivalent, but it really depends on operating RPM. A jet boat isn't gonna be the same as a marine diesel for wear.
I wish I known this. Thanks for sharing.
A few cans of cavity wax or fluid film and you won't have to fix that either
Thanks for sharing! I always cringe at these "maintenance free" or "extended service intervals." Customers defend it, but what do i know? I'm just a mechanic!
I know right! The guy that makes a living fixing cars or the guy that doesnt know a wrench from a rachet
yeah i never follow that .... reason why all my cars last forever.... i change my oil every 4k synthetic on my 05 f150 and every 3k on my 07 accord ... both run awesome and no issues ! changed the trans oil and have to do the diff in another month
"The manufacturer knows best" how many times does that one come up.... Like they really care about your long term reliability. Imagine the hassle so many buyers are going to have when all these hard worked turbo engines start getting more popular in the used market... Dragging out and neglecting maintenance on a turbo vvt engine (especially trying to save money with non syn oil) will get very expensive fast. (I'm really thinking of the new 1.6 and similar little engines from honda, gm, hyundai that are being put in crossovers)
So what's your recommendation for the transmission considering most fluid is in the torque converter? Just do a drain and fill of whatever comes out of the pan & replace the filter? Multiple drain pan drop and fills?
IKR?!
_"Oh, this vinyl siding is maintenance free!"_
... 2 years later, the dark (non south/west) facing sides are mildewey.
... 5 years later, your neighbors house catches on fire and the siding on your house melts away like butter ...
I always change my F150's trans, front and rear diff etc at 40K. Have owned 7 over the years. On my 2022 F150 ONLY use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and change every 5K. They are going to bury me in this truck. 100% paid for, and in GREAT shape. Peace of mind is worth it.
I've been an auto mechanic for over 20 years. Many of the problems I see daily could have easily been avoided by simply following the vehicles maintenance schedule. I use a program on my computer called Automotive Wolf car care software to keep track of all the maintenance for my 3 cars, a truck and even a generator. It automatically can send you text message reminders when any type of service is due. Two of my vehicles have over 200,000 miles and have never needed any repairs. Want to save money? Follow your maintenance schedule!
So the maintenance schedule is different than what the Ford dealership will tell you?
You are a GODSEND. Man, I just bought a brand new 2023 and I am taking serious NOTES in an organized manner to really help me stick to a better maintenance schedule.
We need more good honest techs like you in this world. The manufacturers could not care if there trucks last 1 mile after the warranty period. Remember- they only stay in business if you keep buying new trucks. It’s not in there best interest to make your vehicles last longer by maintaining them properly.
I took my ‘17 F-150 in at 92k for the trans and diff services. The oil was just starting to get dark, which avoided carrying a heavy amount of contaminants. Thanks for the info! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great video! It's too bad that I followed the Ford dealership service recommendations and schedule for my 2003 Expedition Eddie Bauer. At 153,000 kilometres I had to have both front and rear differentials completely rebuilt replacing all bearings as well as new ring and pinion gears. Also, my transfer case was so damaged with all of the bearings completely burned and the chain had ground almost through the transfer case housing that it was not rebuildable. I had to have the transfer case replaced. The dealership also did not service the brakes properly by ever power flushing and bleeding the brake system. That destroyed 3 callipers and the master cylinder. At the same time I had to have all new ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, and front and rear sway bar bushings replaced. Plus, all strut shock absorbers had to be replaced. I bought my 2003 Expedition used in January 2004 with 19,000 kilometres on it and was having it dealership serviced. I stopped going to the dealership after they did a brake job on it. They forgot to lubricate the calliper sliders and did not even tighten the wheel lug nuts. I found out on the freeway when the truck was swaying all over the lane and pulled over to find that I could turn the tire iron with one finger 180 degrees on all 24 wheel nuts. When I complained to them they over torqued the wheel nuts to the point that I broke 2 deep socket and my 24 inch flex bar trying to change to my summer wheels and tires. I do not trust dealerships any more and do all work that I can myself.
Modern maintenance schedules are designed to replace parts right after warranty runs out. Cut all suggested maintenance intervals in half to hit the 300,000 mile mark.
I will agree with the additive packages wearing out, and in the case of the transmission, heat just ruins the trans fluid. The differentials are a little less of a problem. Unless you regularly over tow, or go into mud and deep water, they don't really give trouble. The f150 front differential seems to always have that yellow colored gear oil. Most claim it is from the gear marking compound from first assembly. The vent hose goes up into the engine bay, so unless it was just submarined somewhere, I'm leaning towards it not being water contaminated. A good test is to dip a paper towel in the drained out oil, and watch if a clear wet ring appears above the oil stain. Water will wick out and be visible. The inside of the rear diff gets stained by the friction modifier with clutch pack particulate. It also has a vent tube high up on the bed underside, so deep water may let moisture in.
I finally traded in my 97 Ford F-150 in May 2018 and it had 387K miles on it. The original engine and transmission still. I tried to stay up on changing the fluids and it worked.
Those years were more reliable with less maintenance requirements. No turbos, direct fuel injection, or variable valve timing issues to deal with
409,000 on my 97....my beater that I use....
Uncle had one at 530k kms only died because the brakes were seized and un serviceable
Sadly maintenance intervals have become more a marketing gimmick and what will get the majority of vehicles out of the warranty period, rather than what will actually allow the vehicle to be reliably used for 300,000+ miles like most fleet vehicles we see everyday in our shop for ongoing routine maintenance (using our own custom service intervals for ALL fluids). A few dollars spent now on preventive maintenance has proven to reduce total overall repair costs on most of these fleet vehicles we service at our shop. I look forward to your future videos with what service intervals you recommend and see how close we are in the intervals for each of the fluids.
KCautodoctor
I hear you most likely big company like where i worked before on fleet trucks are getting better on PM's ..especially on hightech vehicles.... mostly they wanted the job done. Work till it breaks attitude. ... but now safety is priority ..with the law suits now day we are human and we operate these machines
Real Person
Chill out take your meds ......sorry for breaking your heart ..lol
The goal Is to sell new ones!
@KCautodoctor I recently traded a '01 cavalier that had 201K miles on it. The automatic trans still had the ORIGINAL fluid in it. The transmission did exhibit a slight shift delay 1st to 2nd at about 175k miles. I added 16 oz of Lucas Stop Slip and the tranny shifted almost like new. BTW, the reason I got rid of the car was that cancer was turning the rocker panels back to their natural state (too expensive to repair). After i added the Lucas I began to follow Scotty Kilmer's advice: avoid the 0-60 full throttle runs, ease up on the throttle during shifts. I honestly believe the car would have made it to the 300K mark with proper driving on the ORIGINAL TRANNY FLUID.
What kimd of vehicles are we talking about? 300k miles is half a million KMs. Nobodys car lasts that long aroumd here. Its a very rare occurence. Unless we are sleaking about diesel trucks that are highway driven 1000s of miles a week non stop.
I have a 2016 ford transit 250. The manual says it tells you when to change the oil depending on driving conditions and habits. It has oil minder or some shit. I changed the oil at 4500 miles. The light never came on. Then I ended up seeing the light come on one day. It had 21,000 miles on it!!! I already at the time was ready for my 5th oil change. That's crazy. This video is 100 percent accurate. Change fluids as much a possible.
Yep can agree there, we do a 5K interval with full synthetic and we usually do 2-3 changes before we get the oil life warning
So at my dealership I recommend changing diff and t case services and drain and fill the trans every 30k and I got scolded by management. They said I was "trying to rip customers off". I told them changing the fluids 3 times in 100k is very cheap compared to a trans or diff. Still got scolded
Trexxx67 : Sounds to me like your dealership managers are idiots. I'm not surprised. The auto industry is full of them.
Yeah because your advice is stupid I have never changed anything other than engine oil and
filters and have 256k miles on my vehicle.
I mean, in fairness I can understand calling 30K excessive (especially since modern fluids hold up a lot better than the fluids of old) but I wouldn't call it a rip off for the peace of mind, only thing you'll lose doing it too much is just a few bucks from your wallet, because too little will be several thousand from the wallet
@@gravemind6536 what kind of vehicle?
@@cpufreak101 A 2003 VW Golf
I'm late to the party, but glad these videos are still up. I'm an American living in Dubai. Just bought a 2016 Expedition with 72k miles on it here. Runs great, but I plan to do the Trans fluid myself. Getting New Ford trans filter but going with an upgraded pan that holds 4 more quarts than stock and has a drain plug. I took the filler bolt out of the Trans and dumped 2 tubes of LubeGuard in there to help re-vitalise the Trans fluid until I can get around to changing it properly. Surprisingly, the fluid is still pretty pink. Thought it would be more burnt with the heat here and those miles.
When I got my 2017 expedition and read through the manual, I got to the fluid service intervals and thought "Uhhh, yeah...I don't think so." They recommended changing the transmission fluid at 150k miles. They must just assume you'll need a new one before you even get there.
2018 Nissan Rogue: Check the fluid quality at 60K. I guess they expect every owner to own a Chemical Laboratory or something.
my girlfriends 2012 ford escape recommends a 30k transmission fluid change
Wow. 30,000 miles on tranny fluid is plenty, 150,000 miles it is juck by then.
They can't sell you a new one if the old one keeps working reliably.
@@alexb.1320 They can play there games all they want i do not buy into them.
Great video - My local FordTechMakuloco mom & pop shop changes the fluids in my Crown Vic's transmission & rear end every 30K. End result: The drive train runs quiet & smooth.
In a future video I will give you My Recommended Fluid Service Intervals as they vary based on the powertrain installed.
Do you have a transmission fluid change video for the 6 speed in the 11-14 f150?
false alarm, found it!
Do I really need to change my trans filter? Or just the oil? Ive found so much debate on this.
@@elliottbran can you provide a link to that video?
Hi Brian, that transmission fluid looks like black ink. How many miles are on this vehicle? Do you recommend changing ATF in this manner on a high mileage vehicle?
My Explorer rear diff has both a fill and drain plug, makes changing fluid very easy, I just do it annually.
Absolutely great information, common sense should tell you the manufacturer is giving bad advise because when something does blow up, they're hoping you'll go to the dealership for repairs. I've owned several new vehicles and I never go to any damned dealership for maintenance or repairs, because they'll make sure you leave with empty pockets. Listen to this man, he's trying to educate you.
Great Advise there about fluids, My dad owns a 2014 F150 , Going on 156909K Miles, he is always on the road, He has religiously changed oil at 3000k mobil 1 and has Done fluid changes at rear dif 60k and front 60K, also had transmissions fluid changes done once, ZERO issues so far! except he had to change a coil at 130K due to miss fire! Fluid change is the key
Remember that vehicles running a lot of short trips, frequent stop-and-go city driving, or towing trailers are all considered SEVERE SERVICE, and the shorter maintenance and inspection intervals recommended by manufacturers for severe service driving should be used as a starting point. This is even with the new "wonder fluids/lubricants", sealed systems or no-lube parts, etc.
I usually go by factory recommendations for “severe duty”. This worked great for many Toyotas.
Excellent video! I've always been of the mindset that changing fluids early is cheap insurance. This can apply to just about every vehicle out there. Thanks for making this!
A really good mechanic told me to change the transmission fluid every 2 years or at 20,000 miles no matter what they recommend on your vehicle, also if that model is known to have transmission problems, you might want to change it at 15,000 miles
And never do the transmission flush oil change, drop the pan n change the filter also, dropping the pan you will only be changing some fluid n not all, but since you are doing it so early it will be enough,
Doing transmission flushes can cause many vehicles problems at times- while sometimes it dont
By doing this your transmission will last way longer unless some part in it goes bad or breaks, or if you drive it real ruff
If you buy a used vehicle it depends how you change the transmission fluid, dont do a flush though, you might want to only change 1 quart at a time, all depends on the owners before you when they changed it n at what miles, sometimes dirty transmission oil with the stuff in it keeps the transmission going better
And people change your brake fluid n power steering fluid when your suppose to or a little bit early, also the radiator fluid
When buying a used car after checking it out n make sure it is good n worth putting money into, change all the fluids unless they are good, but with transmission fluid decide what to do under the circumstances of it past maintenance
Also do oil changes at right mileage n amount of time, now if you dont drive much n oil is good you can go probably 4 or 5 months instead of 3
N people study stuff on fluid changes so you know more, n after someone changes your fluids check to see if it was done unless you cant with some like the transmission fluid .
I have a 2012 3.5. To date, you have saved me over $1,000 in repairs by showing me how to do it myself. Thank you for everything.
Good advice. I've never seen trans fluid that looked like used engine oil. Crazy!
I bought a car years ago with 200k miles on it. I changed the trans fluid using the cooler line disconnect method and emptied the fluid into like 5 gallon hugs that sat for a year before I emptied them. This trans fluid was black like diesel oil, and when I finally emptied the jugs a thick film of gunk was left on the bottoms of the first few! I don't think the fluid was ever changed. It was the only vehicle I've owned where I've changed the trans fluid and felt it shift dramatically better.
Ozzstar, thats where the storys of i got my transmission fluid changed an now my transmission slips .. all that junk in the fluid was helping hahah
Is that true?
My father 2002 Yukon engine oil looked cleaner than that. And we usually change it well over 10k kilometers.
@Eduardo León Morales keep up the good work!
My question when they say "lifetime fluid" is always what exactly constitutes "lifetime?" The length of the warranty? 100K miles? No manufacturer ever defines that when they claim something is lifetime. I like to ask my customers if they're the type that buys a new vehicle every 3-5 years or if they want to keep it 10-20 years and get 200-300K miles or more out of it. Makes a big difference in terms of how they'll want to maintain the vehicle. Great video sir!
Lifetime transmission fluid is supposed to last the service life of the transmission. Dexron IV is stable for 200,000 kilometers based on the documentation I've seen. The newer fluid can last even longer.
@@brarautorepairs The problem with that is no manufacturer will come out and say what they expect the lifetime of their transmission to be. So you're left trusting that their definition matches yours. Additionally, vehicles are operated under a wide variety of conditions, climates, use cases, etc. That makes a one size fits all service interval far less realistic. Some manufacturers have different schedules published and some don't. I can't see leaving the fluid in any transmission for 200,000 Kilometers without at least taking periodic samples and sending them to a lab for analysis. Even then, I'd be willing to bet it doesn't hold up as well as they claim under real world testing. I'd prefer to service my vehicles at reasonable intervals, and have the peace of mind that I'm making an effort to maximize the life of their components. That's just me.
MOTHER OF GOD. That valve body it's the size of the Sun(7 Solenoids ? WTF ?) and yes, that ATF it's pretty nasty.
I say it now and will keep on saying it: OEMs are in the business of SELLING YOU cars and trucks, not helping you keep it around for 10 years or more, there's no money making for them if you keep your vehicle for that long.
My personal case: Nissan recommends CHECKING . . . NOT CHANGING . . . JUST CHECKING the quality of the CVT fluid AT 60K.
Are you F&^%$ing kidding me, Nissan ? I'm flushing that thing at 20K or less, fuck the OEMs and their vile maintenance intervals.
Especially Nissan and their "Silly Putty" CVTs.
Thanks, Mr Brian . . . you're a life saver ! Even tho I don't own a FORD but I love learning new stuff. Keep up the good work !
JIGA BACHI That’s just on that 6 speed haha. Wait until you see how tight a 10 speed is. Especially since the case is the same size as the 6 speeds.
@@stevenp3176 😳
JIGA BACHI Absolutely right OEM's do not want our vehicles to last long? They're in business to make dirty money!
Go with Tundra and never have to worry again if you can just look pass the 17 miles per gallon.
Now they also have sealed transmissions so you can't add or change the fluid
FordTech,
I'm now even more skeptical of buying a used vehicle in this day and time. The only real guarantee that you're not going to buy a used up piece of junk is to buy a new vehicle or one with extremely low mileage and then that one may be for sale because it's a lemon. It's a rare thing to have the documentation of the service history on something used. I can imagine what I would have to go through to insure that a used vehicle of interest is not going to be a POS. As you know most used car and truck sales outlets have had the fluids already changed out so you won't know if it's been neglected or not until you've had it for a while. Then even if the fluids have been changed you don't know if they put the correct fluids back in.
I'd like to say thanks for producing some really informative videos. I've been retired from the profession for quite a while and I'm a Ford man to boot. You're about the only outlet that I have to help me keep up with the newer Ford vehicles and I really appreciate it.
I got pretty lucky when we bought my car, was elderly owned and came with full service history. Now unfortunately the fuel pump went out from having been sitting a while, but got that replaced and it's been great driving ever since (2006 Saturn Ion, 157K miles, 2.2L 5 speed manual)
I've never believed ANY manufacturer that boasts of "lifetime" fluids. Especially when the transmission is concerned.
Use synthetic fluids whenever possible, not because of the extended change intervals, but because they are a better product in extreme conditions (hot or cold).
Or....do whatever you want, it's your vehicle not mine. :D
I changed all fluids religiously. I have a 2000 Ford F150 4x4, bought since new. Engine works amazing. The rest has rusted out or failed.
lol
Thanks for reinforcing what I’ve been saying lol. I’ve changed my trans fluid and diff fluids at 60,000 miles. People thought I was crazy. I said it’s about advertising low maintenance intervals and not necessarily the best for longevity of the vehicle.
I just scheduled my first transmission service, at the local Ford dealership, for my 2016 Fusion SE with the 1.5 Ecoboost. The car has 120,000 miles on it. The guy in the service department said he wants to change the fluid, but not the filter. The reason he gave is that when the filter is changed, not all the fluid is replaced, but if it's just fluid, all of it gets replaced. He said he recommends a filter change at 150,000 miles. I can't say I have a good feeling about it.
Great video Brian. Thanks to you ive just passed 175k in my 05 5.4 and she just keeps chugging away.
have you had any timing chain issues ? at 155k
@@codyramos3200 sure did. Brian fixed it up. Luckily i found him before more damages happened.
I live in South Texas. Where it floods very easy. People drive there vechicles through deep waters. Once you put that axle under water. The axle vent acts like. Sticking a empty bottle under water, it fills up. Thats what you just did to your axle gear oil as shown here on the front axle. Jeeps come factory but off road yuys. Get a piece of hose and move that vent into the bed of the truck also the engine compartment. Once that vent goes under water, you are gonna take on water in the axle and contaminant your axle oil.
In 2016 in Australia a new Consumer Law was passed covering warranties. We already saw factory warranties go out to five years in response to Asian manufacturuers like Toyota, Lexus and Nissan all offering 5 year factory warranties and free scheduled servicing. Nissan went one better and pushed their warranties out to seven years. Then Hyundai too.
At the end of 2017 Ford Australia made a decision to not sell passenger cars here and only SUVs and trucks. I understand thats also happening in Europe too where EU warranties have also pushed out to 7 years.
When the exiting CEO of Ford Australia said that the only profitable part of selling cars was servicing, everyone was shocked. Now warranties and free servicing have taken that profit away too.
"When the exiting CEO of Ford Australia said that the only profitable part of selling cars was servicing" true words to remember
I'm pretty sure since the early 2000's here in the United States of America that Ford moved all their car manufacturing to Mexico.
I sometimes use this at parties or at the bar; I asked a giving person how many privately held American automakers are still making cars in this country. Of course, the answer is 0.
Toyota, Honda, and Nissan, they make cars here in America but they are Japanese companies. Government Motors is still bought out by Obama. I haven't known whose owned Chrysler Corporation for over a decade but I know isn't an American company. And Ford makes their cars in Mexico. The answer is 0.
Its crazy how people dont and werent taught how to take care of your fluids and do it often. Runs smoother, happier, cooler, all of it. Keeping my fluids clean and of the highest quality is one of my favorite hobbies. Amsoil.
Why would anyone thumbs down this video, it probably was a ford engineer! You called there bluff.
Don't forget the Ford accountants as well. $$$$
I have a Ford Taurus with heat issues and after I have seen the design on the heater hoses and a two piece lower radiator hose I'm convinced Ford should have their engineers drug tested. Its crazy how they build these things.
Most car companies have a single engineer who's job is to look at an easy to make and fix engine layout and ask the question of "how can we fuck this shit up so its hard to repair?". Well as much as I like Ford (serious fanboy) they happen to have 3 per team lol.
It's not just Ford
*their*
good advise!
My short story: 2009 Ram 1500 4x4 HEMI, never towed anything, no off-roading. always do R. Diff, T. Case, AT & F. Diff at 40k miles, just recently at 140,000 miles started getting noise [like a bearing whirl]. Luckily I have the Lifetime to 1st buyer engine & power-train warranty $0 deductible as well as a Lifetime MaxCare extended warranty w/Mopar $100 deductable. In the end dealership did $3800 complete rear diff/axle rebuild in three days for $0. I needed to show I changed the fluid in it at least twice [receipt]. Dont know what happened to cause the failure, BUT as much as I won this time I bet a lot of folks get burned b/c the neglected maintenance.
For the 2020 model year lineup, Ford will be introducing the long awaited “Lifetime Fuel”- the full tank of gas it initially comes with will last you a lifetime. Ford is so confident that they deleted any way to fuel the car yourself.
SOLD! Better than the cap-less gas thing :P
Bs
Lol
This reminds me of those automatic transmissions that don't have a dip stick and a way to add fluid. Whose idea was that? Absolutely not a vehicle for me!
@@williamcharles9480 My goddamn volkswagen jetta 2011 had that shit. The only way to 'check' transmission fluid was to drain it and add more!
Good advice. I installed a 4wd trans pan on my 4R100 Lightning that gave it an extra quart and drain plug. I drain the pan every year and top it off with 6 qts of Mercon. I also syringe the brake fluid out of the master cylinder and replace with every oil change. Diff every 5 years.
Agreed...This is a great reminder for people to maintain their fluids, your vehicle and checkbook will love you for it.
I follow the sever duty service
I've been looking for a lower milage gen 5 f350 for a few years and was contemplating giving in a purchasing a new 7.3 godzilla. You helped me make up my mind. I'll stick with the gen 5 I can maintain at home, and get another 20 years use out of it.
just bought my first ford im actually excited to be doing all the maintenance been watching all your videos for about a week now thanks for all the help ! God bless
He speaks the truth. My 2004 5.4 3v 4x4 was originally owned by oil field guy who fully serviced diffs, transfer case, transmission every 40k miles (per carfax and previous owner). I got it in 2010 with 130k it now has more than 260k miles on original drivetrain and even timing set. Really makes the difference if you are planning to keep one around for the long haul
I always thought Ford was crazy saying 150k. I do 30k switch outs for trans, transfer case, and diffs. I also swap out brake fluid around that time as well. 40-50k coolant switch as well. I change oil every 5k. Thanks for proving my point even further 😁
If a vehicle takes a shit on you rest assured it wasn't your fault. Keep it up.
Never heard of changing brake fluid.
sheldon bertram if you do it when you change your pads it makes it easy
Nicolas Losito I just use a c clamp compress the caliper and put it back together. Never bother the fluid unless I bust a line.
Dot3 Brake fluid will absorb water. Each year it absorbs about 20% water so after about 5 years your brake fluid is mostly water. The air in the water will compress which gives you a spongy brake pedal and if your brake fluid is old and get heated up it can boil which causes brake fade.
Another Great Video Brian . 100% agree with you to do ALL car fluids much much sooner than most car manufacturers recommend . If anyone sees the latest car manufacturer's " lifetime fluid " ... disregard that false statement and service it . My regime on 2012 Ford Focus with dps6 auto transmission is ... ALL fluids are Full Synthetic , Engine Oil 5,000 km or 6 months whichever comes first . Dual Clutch Transmission ( DPS6 ) with internal trans axle 50,000 km or 5 years whichever comes first . Power Steering Fluid ( Full Drain and refill ) at 50,000km or 5 years whichever comes first . Radiator Coolant ( Drain and Refill ) with extended life coolant at 50,000km or 5 years whichever comes first . Brake Fluid ( Drain and Refill ) at 40,000km or 4 years whichever comes first . P.S . Here in Australia our measurements are in KM not Miles . Brian Thanks again for your wisdom and insight and i'm glad your actually showing the excessive wear and damage that lies ahead on vehicle's and customer's who choose to follow dubious car manufacturer's service intervals which are designed to kill your car slowly so you can keep buying parts and new cars from car makers .
Great video. I have a truck of a different brand,Lol. Just turned over 400 k . Finally had to do the transmission rebuild due to the bearing for the torque converter going out and contaminated a pump seal. The 700 r4 case looked like new,all the parts looked near new. Pump lost pressure . New pump and a complete rebuild kit. Like new again. I always change my transmission fluid every 2 years. It pays off in the long run. Engine oil every 3 k Dif every 2 years. 1990 1500 4x4
Not complaining about 400 thousand miles of use. Take care of your investment!!!!!!!
I just hit 96k miles on my 2014 FX4 5.0 v8, taking it in today to have everything checked you mentioned. Thank you.
I had quite a tough time convincing our Ford dealership to do a drain & fill on the 6F35 in our C-Max. Ford claims it is lifetime filled...
I asked them to do a drain & fill at 35.000km (22k miles) because I wanted the first change done early after the break-in period. After this one it will be done every 50.000km (31k miles) from now.
You are not changing oil often enough that engine is not going to last so long.
@@gravemind6536 Hes not talking about the engine. "6F35 drain and fill"- thats the trans.
I own a 2003 Ford Taurus with just over 575,000 miles on original Vulcan 3.0L V-6 and A4XS automatic transmission. Bought the car used with 51000 miles. (No rebuilds to date). It's been a daily driver with freeway, mountain and city driving during a normal commuter work week. Still runs well and a pleasure to drive on city streets, mountain roads and freeways. Oil and filter change interval is 4000 miles (every 4-6 weeks on the average) or every 3 months (3000 miles) during this pandemic season. Oil is always Motorcraft semi-syn 5W-20/5W-30 and a Motorcraft oil filter. No sign of coking and only minor discoloration in the filler neck. Transmission fluid and filter change interval is annual with 36000-40000 per year for nearly all years. Vehicle survived a few rock strikes on mountain roads (trans pan, gasket and fluid replaced), debris strikes on freeways (power steering cooler replaced), and a few low-speed bumper thumpers on both ends (bumps and scrapes). Other casualties are 2 radiators and upper/lower hoses, 1 coolant reservoir and return hose, 1 a/c compressor, 1 water pump, 3 starters, 6 rebuilt alternators, 1 power steering pump & reservoir, 2 cat-convertors, 2 MAF sensors, 3 sets of HV wires, 5 sets of spark plugs, and 4-5 sets of brakes (including 1 master cylinder and 2 sets of disk calipers), 2 sets of inner/outer tie rods and 2 sets of struts. Power steering rack and front axle shafts are also the originals. Note, I don't thrash or baby my vehicles and do much of the fluid, engine tune-up/repair, and brake parts replacement in my garage at home. Track record with 2 Taurus models (1999 SE and 2003 SE) is 837,000+ miles with 2003 model still running strong and reliable. True story and I'm sticking with it.
Thumbs up for being honest .car manufacturers are hoping for these failures to bring in shop money .oil is cheap hard parts will melt your credit cards. I have been recommending 15,000 mile service for trucks towing heavy trailers and how fast the oil dirties up.👍
I can't even remove my transmission pan. Two bolts are blocked by a crossmember bracket. The filter needs to be changed but the only thing I've been able to do is pump some old fluid out and put new fluid in
Hey Brian - - - as always you keep giving all of your subscribers good advice - thank's for sharing this bit of information .
I am a Chevy Guy, used to work as a Tech at Chevy, and Drive a Silverado (2007.5 Silverado Extended Cab LTZ 4x4 with the 5.3).
I always change out my
--Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid, Engine Coolant every 60,000 miles
--Transmission Fluid/Filter, Front/Rear Diff Fluid, and Transfer Case Fluid every 30,000 miles.
--Engine Oil (Using Mobil 1 Annual Performance 5W-30 and Matching Filter) every 5-8,000 miles, depending on how to the truck is used, such as Towing, Hauling, Stop-N-Go Traffic, Highway.
This is how I do it, and would recommended to Customers with a Silverado, and it works.
I am currently a Mechanic for the Company I work for, and they have a 50/50 Mix of F-150's and Silveraods, and they all get serviced the same.
GM too! Brother!
This GM tech a has seen black ATF at 20k. And GM complains we want to do 30-60-90ks
When I was doing this (some years ago now) the general rule was change ALL the fluids every two years. This video attests to that.
Ive been telling family and frinds this type of advice for years. Good video!
Excellent video! I just bought a brand new 2018 F-150 so I will definitely be ahead of the game on maintenance. Thank you for posting this!
Speaking about fluids and such, why not post a video on hybrid brake fluid? Im sure there is a very careful technique to do this. Some shop did my brakes now I have no brakes. They cant figure out why my brakes are gone and now I am 7 months without my truck. (08 ford escape). I spoke with my friend that lives in another state that has a shop and told me they had to use a brake bleeder pressure tool that can put 30 psi in order to properly bleed my brakes and he thinks that is my problem. That they replaced the pads without disconnecting the battery or using a scanner and allowed the brake system to energize and cause air to get in my ABS unit. I want to just pick up my truck and do it myself, its frustrating not having my truck!
Thx for the info. I just bought a 2010 Ling Ranch with 145000 one owner miles big reason I bought this one is cause owner did an excellent job of maintaining it wit reg oil and all fluid replacements
Always always follow the "special operating conditions" section of the maintenance guide! Trust me.
You are so correct sir I was taught by the best my father he was a truck master in the US Army for 20 plus years...And I always do PM (preventive maintenance) on all my vehicles in my household ,all are over 12-16 plus years old with above average milage and all run and look great,while most of my neighbors buy or lease new cars every 3-4 years with high payments..in my opinion it's so much more cost effective to buy a car u love, pay it off and take care of it with PM and love..lol...oh my love is my 72 El Comino which is not a trailer queen and will drive anywhere in this great country of ours to where I point it to...but that's a different story lol....thxx for sharing ur video....
It's not just Ford. I have a supposed "maintenance free" transmission in my car. I'm going to change out the fluid and filter and add a super duty transmission cooler at 60,000 miles (probably next year). I'm just a do-it-yourselfer, but in my experience, automatic transmissions are the weak point on virtually every car made after about 1990. After a ton of research, I found that anywhere from 1/3 to 2/3 of automatic transmission failures are due to inadequate cooling. A $20 cooling kit from Oreilly's or Auto Zone remedies that, and regular fluid and filter changes takes care of most of the other problems. And power flushing transmissions will destroy them.
I used to have a '99 Chrysler 300M with the 3.5L V6. I put in a super duty cooling kit and stayed on top of maintenance (including water pump and timing belt at 200,000 miles). When the engine developed a rod knock at 213,000 miles, the transmission was still running like clockwork.
Same thing with the Torqueflite in my '79 Dodge pickup. No power flush; just fluid and filter changes periodically. When I bought that truck in the 90's, the engine was so worn out that I was putting in a quart of oil every week. I did an engine rebuild on it. Just kept doing fluid and filter changes on the transmission, and it's still going strong. Original transmission, bought the truck from the original owner.
My uncle had a '98 Ram that he beefed up the cooling on since he lived in the south, lasted 350K miles before it even started having an issue (I don't believe he did many fluid/filter changes)
@@cpufreak101 He must have understood the old saying, "Take care of your equipment, and your equipment will take care of you."
@@MichaelDavis-cy4ok mhm, however he since moved north to salt country so the truck ain't gonna last too long now
@James Marquis Thanks! I'll check them out. It's almost time to get one.
interesting about the auto failures. i'll have to look into it more, thanks for mentioning it (trans coolers) @@MichaelDavis-cy4ok
By far, the best Ford Master Technician on RUclips.
Thank you for telling us the truth about all these things that I have no clue about. Keep them coming.
We appreciate you!
agreed!
Naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!
I just purchased a 2014 F150 4x4 super crew cab with 135,000 miles on it. It was originally owned by the PA Transportation dept. for the first 80,000 miles. After that is was owned by a person. I’m doing all fluid changes as I’m not sure who did what. Hoping for the best. Thanks for the video
I agree. I once needed an in warranty leak on my transmission repaired. I told the dealership to change the filter at the same time. They tried to tell me there was no need but I insisted and paid for the filter myself. If the transmission is open why not change the filter at the same time?
@@jackpoage5419 mine did
You are so right about regular maintenance. Not only do I try to perform all maintenance on my cars and trucks, but all of my farm equipment as well which has earned me the nick name " Over Kill Will" but I guess that is why I always have a line of people wanting to buy any of my vehicles or equipment whenever I am ready to get rid of them.
Great advice. Applies to any vehicle on the road.
My 05 Ford ranger 2.3 L oil change 3000 to 3500 miles is at 424000 miles. At 250,000 bottom end motor knock. Changed to heavy oil 15 40 and Lucas oil treatment. Knock sound low . Never smoked or loss power. Sadly second auto trans died. Truck nice , very little rust. All my original Ford components made it to 200,000 to 300,000 miles. Recently oil in spark plug wells and engine miss fire. Great product.
BTW: Put Synthetics in everything including the diff's, you wont be disappointed! My truck drives the same at -30° as it does on a 75° sunny spring day!
I do fluids and filters twice as often as recommended. Old fluids just become polishing compounds as they break down and accrue contaminants. Bushings, vales and bearing surfaces and gear surfaces don't need a steady diet of polishing compound. That doesn't end well! Thanks for making this clear here! This word needs spread.
By around 2000, vehicles had become so reliable that sales of new vehicles had dropped
relative to expectations of auto makers. What I have noticed are two things. An increase in
unreliable expensive electronics and longer maintenance intervals. Both of which
will severely limit the number of reliable miles a car can go. If you changed the oil and
trans fluid in a 2000 Honda Civic enough, it was not uncommon for one of those to
go a quarter million miles. Of course, that meant changing trans fluid at 24K miles
and oil at 3.5K miles. Now, they have you wait several times as long between fluid changes and in some cases say not to even change the so called 'life time' fluid. And guess what.
Reliability, especially high mileage reliability has plummeted. Basically, if you follow most auto
manufacturer's regular service intervals on a post 2012 made car, it will get you just out
of the warranty period and then stuff will begin happening. People who are really finding this out are people who are buying late model used cars with much over 50K miles on them.
Agreed but synthetic fluids are responsible for allowing for longer intervals.
Some people buy new vehicles n drive them a few years or after a certain mileage is on them n then trade it in for a brand new vehicle before major stuff can go wrong with them after it hits a certain mileage
N if they get one that starts having major problems early they trade it in right away for a new one
So people understand that many used vehicles out there have problems with them n it isnt worth fixing or it cant be fixed
So how often should we be changing differential oil? Transfer case fluid? My Saturn has 318,800 miles and I changed the transmission fluid at 120,000 miles. Still red and doesn’t smell burned. Still rockin that same clutch too. But engine oil is every 3000 miles or when the oil gets dark whichever is first
What? Red transmission fluid in a manual car? It should only have gear oil.
@@robertcampbell5485 I have a1990 Mustang with a manual transmission
and I was told it uses type F ATF. It only has 10K miles on it so I have
yet to change that fluid but due to age I want to this year and
I guess I will find out what is in there when I pump it out.
My 2014 Infiniti Q60S and my 2004 Nissan 350Z both use
more normal manual transmission gear oil in both the
transmission and differential. I just use the fluid type the
manufacturer calls for in both the transmission and
differential.
Very well-done review and video production in general. You were well prepared with notes in hand, quick and on-point, but not too quick... thanks for sharing. - Just a thought about the fog lamps not coming on with the high beams. That can be remedied by your Ford tech with a click of a button on his computer the next time you're in for service. Those of us living in rural and/or mountainous country, we need to be able to throw all the light we can down the road to help avoid deer, elk, moose and the occasional cow or horse on the road. - Regarding the 3.5L EB vs 5.0L V8... For those on a limited or fixed income (a lot of us older folks, like me) might need to consider the added cost of maintenance required on the 3.5L EB compared to the 5.0L over its lifetime which can be considerable. I tow an 8,500 pound, 36-foot RV camper but usually over flat land or rolling hills in Oklahoma and Missouri where the 5.0L will perform just fine, even admirably.
Correct I’ve got a 2014 Raptor , and I’ve change my Oil with full synthetic 5W-20 Pennzoil every 5K Km instead of what the dealer says every 8K
This is probably the best advice you could ever receive-
The manufacturers concept of "lifetime fluids" is self interested to the warranty expiration (50,000 miles). Modern lubricants are hydroscopic and as the seals age, have a tendency to allow for even more water intrusion, as time goes by.
Always follow the "SEVERE" service intervals...
Agreed. If you read the details driving your vehicle anywhere on the North American continent is "Severe Duty". That's how Dodge got out of paying for 10s (100s?) of thousands of failed 2.7 V6 engines that failed by people following the "normal duty" schedule.
And even that's generally not enough
@@danthurston5264 Same in Australia, our hot climate automatically makes it severe use. Manufacturers still sell cars promising 10 - 12 K miles service intervals, sigh.
Ty..for this my dad had a service station.for 40 yrs..i still go his advice..i have a 2016 ford fusion..my trans went out last mo at 055.mi. Just befor warr expired s...they rebuilt it ..covard..warr.. It would of been 6 grand to rebuild..i use full syn oil..5w20 motercraft..oil ..i change it every 4 thou mi..since new..myself..plugs i changed at 50 thou mi as well .not at a 100 thou.mi. never..fuild chang out is alot cheaper..then rebuilding a moter..or a trans .great advice on your videos..i do love my ford....i miss the service station...busness..by gone days..we had 5 bays and a car wash...my dad made millions..by his retirement..had alot of the same customer s for 40 yrs..he opened in 1957..with money he saved from being in the navy..we owend the property..i say those were the good old days of servicing cars ..
Long time ago had a Chevy truck owners manual said tranny flush every 30000, transfer case every 30000-40000 miles and rear diff every 75000 to 100000. Depends on if you use for work or daily drive. I can say that I followed all of there recommendations and the vehicle still drives today with over 300000k! I have done this for all my trucks and sports cars ford only and I have never had an issue. The only thing I disagree with is the brake recommendations 50000k don’t think I’ve ever seen brakes last that long up here in new England
Great Point! My Neighbors 2017 ram with 79K miles the rear went out big $$$ and during swap , the front had zero fluid also
This is why in my 2014 f150 I change the engine oil every 3,000 miles and trans fluid and filter every 30,000 miles and the diffs and transfer case fluid every 30,000 miles
So you pull the pan on the closed transmission every 30,000 miles? Really?
Sorry my ford dealer drained and put in new fluid at 30,000 miles there is a drain and fill on the trans
What's so amazing about that?
If you intend to keep it FOREVER that's good
If you trade it at 60-80k you're just out $$$, helping the next guy.
You must be insane.
Yep. I don’t buy that 7,000 or 25,000 synthetic motor oil change claims ether. When I bought my sister’s 2003 Land Rover, I immediately changed ALL fluids. Changed all filters. Sealed up all the leaks. And now it’s got 160,000+ miles and going. Despite their reputation as being unreliable.
A lot of the maintenance issues on cars, are simply derived from neglect or forgoing basic maintenance, such as fluids. That includes brakes, power steering fluid and engine coolant.
Thanks for the video.
Excellent advice. It’s nice that u support Ford when they’re right, and u call them out when they r wrong. They make very nice vehicles. But they r slow to correct some big problems. Which I have learned on this channel. Btw, hows your Dodge eco diesel running?
We just bought a 2014 escape with 112,000 miles, surprisingly it came with a 1000 mile 30 day warranty which gave me peace of mind. About 2 weeks in I noticed it developed a rough shift. Called up the dealer and scheduled an appointment. Now they're telling me that it needs a transmission. I had asked if they checked the fluid level they said no because it was sealed transmission and there was no leaks. So without any further investigation after their own 10 mile test drive they assumed it needs a another transmission. To my surprise they're only giving me a used one. Makes me very nervous.
A GM engineer coined the phrase" intended OBSOLESENCE". They don't want your vehicle to last more than a few years, they want you back in the dealership real soon, Don't run the 75w-85 diff lube in the rear axle of the newer F-150. That's for CAFE standards ONLY .and gas mileage. Axle failure is known to happen. Use 75w-140
look up planned obsolescence on Wikipedia. Also when Henry Ford first started mass producing vehicles he told his engineers to go to the junkyards and pull engines to see what parts were still good and change them so as to not last so long, only as long as the parts that would fail first.
Agree on the rear differential oil. Never knew how hot that was getting until I towed and had a flat. I crawled under the truck to put the jack under the rear differential (was rotating some tires around) and touched the damned thing. I still have the scar on my hand.
Just changed trans fluid on a 2013, truck had 155000 miles and never changed, it had intermittent solenoid codes, I changed black fluid with vavoline super max lv with new filter, cleared codes and truck shifts and rides better. Hopefully I caught it in time before I had to change the lead frame.
Yeah like the “lifetime” PTU fluid on my 2011 Ford Edge.... NOT TRUE! I change it every year... looks like molasses every year! 125k mi... no issues 👍🏻
Seth Jackson
Part of the problem they believe 3/4 of a quart of gear oil is plenty!!!
How do you do it? I have to start doing that on my wife's Flex
Tavis Kaczanowski
Depending on the year there may be a drain plug, ‘15+ I think. On mine there is only a fill plug... use a fluid evacuator to suck out all the fluid you can, then refill. I had to do it 3 times the first time to get all the crap fluid out.