I have a 2010 F150 5.4L Triton. Just flipped 440,000 miles. Changed the water pump at 395,000. Just changed the alternator at 436,000 miles. Still on original starter. I change oil every 7,500 miles. I've been using the synthetic blend since about 75,000. I'm shooting for 500,000. I think I finally bought the last set of tires I'll ever put on this truck.
152,000 and counting on my 2015 2.7 Lariat FX4 super cab. Zero issues. I ordered the truck new, built a carport over my driveway to protect it, and it still looks and acts pretty much like it did when I drove it off the lot. I do my own oil changes at 5000 miles, using Mobil 1 EP. I let the dealer do the other fluid swaps, all by the book for severe service. That’s the key. Also, in North Texas we don’t see road salt. Frame rust won’t be an issue. I’m planning to see 300,000!
I use Mobil 1 EP too. 2015 XLT HDTP 3.5. I'm between Montana and WV though so I see road salt every odd year or so. Eastwood Rust Reformer Plus or Fluid Film takes care of it. I do have to clean the MAF/MAP sensors every so often as the 3.5 is a dirtier engine but I tow often. 139k, nothing other than regular maintenance.
You wont see rust on an aluminum truck regardless. In severe cases, like near salt water you MAY get some corrosion or oxidation. But not rust. At least on the aluminum body and frame
I Drive a 1995 Chevy Suburban, 350, 4x4, I drive with care and awareness, passion for the vehicle and keep it clean and in tip top shape, the slightest issue pops up. I fix it asap. I change my oil every 3k miles and plan on coolant flushes every 75k, differential fluids every 75k, Spark plugs every 25k (about a 14 months for my driving), I got Wiper blades for summer and early fall and some for late fall through spring (in Montana here), etc It's got 212k on it and runs like new, I intend to have it till the day I can't drive anymore whether it's kept ice or has to be converted one day, I'm not letting go till I can't use it
I learned that quick upon moving to Montana. Wiper blades don't last long through those winters. That and I get a new windshield every year because rocks and mud tires aren't a good highway mix. Everybody runs them, and about everyones windows are cracked.
Video suggestions: if you plan on following FordTechMakuloco's maintenance intervals you could do videos on - 1.) a trans fluid-only change at 30K miles and, 2.) a fuel filter change at 30K miles.
Check. The trans will be a challenge as it's a very tricky procedure to check fluid alone, yet replace/fill. But I like your suggestion and it might push me over the edge to grab that $200 service manual online. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I plan on ordering the factory-manuals for my 2022 PB soon. I see where the price has gone from $99 to $129. It looks like you no longer can order just the service manual separate from the wiring manual - they've combined them into one, thus the $129 price. Which service manual are you referring to that runs $200?
@@davidc8122 Probably just an off-handed comment about the price of the manuals since I haven't ordered them yet. But I likely will as I'm not thrilled with the level of service that I've gotten lately. cheers
Maintenance is one thing another big thing that people overlook is cleanliness of your vehicle. My car was 8 years old and it looked better then the first day I drove it home. Always keep your car looking clean and keep ahead of the maintenance and your car will always look and run like a new car.
Good suggestion. I am a stickler for maintaining appearance and cleanliness on my vehicles in addition to maintenance. You can eat off my engines, the undercarriages are clean and the body/paint is in very, very good shape as I detail them myself once a year and keep them washed and cleaned year around, and we get pretty snowy winters around here in Colorado. It's a darn shame to see vehicles, perhaps even mechanically well maintained or maybe not, get ratty with the interiors of banged, dented or neglected exteriors as well. If your going to make and investment, which is only second in cost compared to the house you live in, why not maintaining it and keep it nice? I just sold a 98 limited tacoma, with about 140K miles on it and 1st gen TRD blower and it was as nice as when I ordered it from Toyota at ~ 25 years old. It was so nice the shop that I trust to do work on my toyota vehicles, the owner bought it from me 1st thing the minutes I said I was going to sell it as he loved the level of care and pristine condition. I have a 31 year old vehicle with 270k miles that is still running on the original motor and tranny, never rebuild and it's a clean sedan for a run=about here in town. Kudos for the great suggestion!
I couldn't agree with you more about the Powerboost. Mine hasn't seen the shop for a single warranty item yet. And one of the beauties of the vehicle is that you cut down on actual engine mileage by 25 to 30% by virtue of driving in electric mode. I'm getting 18 to 23 miles per gallon in suburban driving, double what I got on my Raptor. That should pay for a lot of oil changes.
Anyone's truck can last 300;000 miles. Just do maintenance and change whatever breaks. Everything can be repaired. It helps if you buy a truck that has parts availability. It helps if you get a body that won't rust though.
You don't need to buy Expensive oils !! I had a 1992 Ford Aerostar Work Van and used Walmart Supertech 10w30 reg oil not synthetic and Supertech oil filter changed every 3500mi and the Van had 473,000 miles on it when i sold it and still was Running Great .
Thanks for posting this. Lots of very good information here that you have provided us. I've gone ahead and placed an order for a catch can for my 2022 Powerboost. And, I plan on following the more frequent maintenance schedule. I'll be ordering a manual, as well. Also, I'll be doing all the same for my wife's 2022 Edge. Thanks, again!
Hello great video thank you. Thank you for sharing. I just bought a 2020 Ford escape with 40,000 miles on it. I called the Ford dealer to get the rear differential changed and the PTU changed. They would not do it. They said we do not service it lifetime so you don’t need to, change it. I took it to Midas and they were happy to do it so I’m so happy right now that they did. It could not believe that Ford would not do this for me after I just purchased this car from them and an extended warranty, the nerve they wouldn’t change it, but they said they would put a new one in for me cause they wanted like 1500 or $2000 unbelievable.
Yeah we'll see what my local dealer says when I say that I want my transmission fluid changed at 30K when they suggest 150k. They are not incentivized to make your vehicle last longer.
pap use to say the way a vehicle is treated & maintenenced in the first 50k miles, determines when it will fail in its last 50k miles.we cant stop normal wear, but we can slow it down substancially.theres quite a few of the old ford rangers in the 300 to 400k mile range still going.but most were taken well care of from the begining.maintenence is cheaper than neglect.
I've gotten 383k miles on a 1999 Dodge RAM, 327k miles from a 1983 Dodge RAM. Now have a 2011 RAM and it'll make it easily to 300k miles. Never a issue with transmission or engine issues, all original. Maintenance and not abusing the vehicle is the key. My wife has a 2007 Subaru Forester that has just turned over 200k.
Step 6 - My wife's Mini was the first to get turned into rodent salad - they were having babies in the floor void in the trunk... I now do the peppermint spray in about an 8-12 inch barrier around the perimeter of her car on the garage floor, and have not had an issue since, AND it doesn't burn off as fast as if you spray the car directly. They have an incredible sense of smell, so a spray every 6-9 weeks is sufficient. A gallon of the stuff lasts about a year.
Michigan = Rust. No one uses more salt. I’ve successfully purchased used Toyota trucks 90-100k and pushed them to 250-300k miles. T100 and 1st gen Tundra. But it’s always the rust and rust related issues that got to them. Never an engine or drive train issue. Full synthetic. Varied brands. A 1/2 quart of Lucas and 5k oil changes. Just traded a 2006 Tundra 257K for a 2020 2.7 F150 with 17K. Plan on maxing this truck out. Have a similar mindset of yours but I love how well thought out and informative your videos are.
Thanks for the comment and appreciate the kind words, Steve! Am very happy to be living in an area that rarely snows and never uses salt. Literally watched my cars rust away in front of me in the 70's and 80's when I lived in the salt belt.
Oil catch cans are simply the best way to protect your intake valves and intake tract. I had a 98 Chevy Silverado and a 2003 Ford Explorer with over 300,000 and both had catch cans. I know they work because I had to replace the valve cover gasket on the Explorer and it requires a lot of dissembly including the upper intake plenum. Inside that plenum was a spotless oil less piece of plastic that still looked brand new. No coked valves and the entire top end looked like it did when it left the factory. So I believe in these catch cans and because they are so cheap, it’s a cheaper alternative to a top end cleaning or burnt valves. I have a dual set up in my 17 STX with the 2.7 EB, and I dump out about a tablespoon every oil change.
I always run my 2016 F150 v8 in sport mode. It takes stress off of the engine and the transmission. It's got 336,000 miles (rebuilt trans at 307,000) engine sounds and feels new!
@@rdsii64 In sport mode, the engine runs at higher rpms, it just sounds like it's not "lugging down." It's like going uphill on a bicycle, the lower the gear, the easier it is to move ahead.
I'm just going to put a fresh engine, trans and rear end on the shelf for when they pop. My 23 lariat high 5.0 has a roush supercharged stage 2 from factory. haha
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I'll save that for race week 🤣 a couple extra driveshafts as well haha. I sure do love the performance game, but anything can happen!
I enjoyed this video. I am trying to learn as much as I can about my 2012 F-159 Lariat 5.0 4x4. As of 02/2024 it has 145, 372 miles. I am striving to take care of it all the way around, especially the engine. Since 2021 until 02/11/24, I have completed 90% of the things you spoke about in this video. The surface rust I really don’t know what to do about it. My truck is celebrating its 12 birthday this month (Feb) and it’s running and looking good. Just still trying to learn more about maintaining it. Send me more knowledge.
Howdy! All kinds of opinions about surface rust. Few things that you can do about this on body parts without the cancer creeping in again. If you're trying to arrest this on frame and suspension parts, you have a better shot. Start with wire brush/wire wheel in drill and get as much of the crusty stuff broken off. Blow it off and get as much of the loose grit and dust off. At this point I've used products like POR (paint over rust) paint. It's expensive but works well to extend life. I've just done this in the past on my vehicles when I lived in the salt belt. Look for professional opinions and most people will point to prevention as the best thing to do. (if you can prevent something from getting rust cancer in the first place that's your best bet) Good luck with your truck! cheers
i got 584,000 on my 97 ford E 150 with the 4.6 liter engine the body let me down living on long island it rusted out so in 2018 i got rid of it and got a chevy colorado it has 156,000 miles on it
Remember the manufacturer sets suggestions on maintenance to ensure their warranty coverage is good enough to hold off a big fix while your still in warranty coverage. They weigh this against the maintenance cost to the customer. They’re not gonna say to bring your truck in every three months because no one would buy
I bought a 22' PB certified pre-owned 20K mi a couple weeks ago, so I've been watching your vids. Good advice here. I have to do a little polishing of the turd. The first owner/leaser changed oil at 7500 then at 18,000 (yikes). The dealer changed it again at 19,500 to prep for sale. This is the first vehicle I bought a extended warranty for, considering I got a bit burned on another high-tech vehicle in repair costs. So I'm gonna try and go for the other side of long-term ownership, time. The extended is good for 10y / 120K. I'm gonna do my best not to drive the miles off this one so quick and use my POS 15' Jeep Cherokee for commuting. I have that J&L catch can but haven't put it on yet. I'm trying to find out if the dealership will claim it's a warranty voiding item or not.
Once you install the catch can, you'll see how easy it is to swap out that PCV hose should you want to "de-separate" prior to going back to the dealer. I think that most service advisors are smart, there's a huge difference between adding an oil separator vs. running a Livernois tune on your truck.
I've not owned anything but Fords, and every vehicle (bought new) has gone over 200,000 miles and even then only junked because of rust, never any mechanical issues. The last couple I finally splurged for getting regular underbody washes (Michigan, salt belt) and they're holding up well. I'm getting Surface Shield undercoating on my new F150 to help with that as well. I have opted to do it myself, the sprayer was $100 and a gallon of product is < $100. I can easily touch it up myself every year. Surface Shield is pretty much the same thing as Fluid Film but is said to go on easier and drip less and is a little sticky to resist power washing. On the "salt belt" - it's not just in the winter. Many states use salt (brine) spray on gravel roads in the summer as well. Cars in those states can easily be rusted to non-drivable status in 10 years from new. Agree 100% on everything.
After growing up in Cleveland and watching everything rot to swiss cheese within 10 years or less, it’s been amazing for me to live in the south and see 30 year old cars with zero rust. Like your plan. Cheers John
Your videos are very informative. Would you recommend buying a used powerboost? I am looking at a used 2021 with 60K miles. I am worried about the hybrid battery life.
I would not worry about the hybrid battery life at all. First, Ford does a good job of managing the charge so it's never too high nor too low. This reduces any "wear" or heat cycles. Second, it's a small battery and they are inexpensive. Not like a full hybrid battery nightmare that you've likely heard of where the cost to replace is worth more than the car itself. They're maybe $500 and are warranted for ten years, IIRC. I would check the oil change history on your potential truck, that's 20k/year (which is fine) but how often did they change it?
@@sammyboy892 Wow that brings back memories. Hope you're well. I'm still banging around the options space with readyset.trade and 12minutetrading.com. I just do this Ford stuff for fun, letting my nerd flag fly. cheers
Curious as to waht oil you decided to use.. I am currently using Motorcraft Full Synthetic.. it supposed to he good oil and I change it every 5k miles. Currently have 35k on my 21 PB.
Hi Patrick - check out the Project Farm channel where he did an unbiased oil review of several major brands. Amsoil was the clear winner. Even though I can't find it in stores, I decided to sign up for their club so I get free shipping. Otherwise I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for a couple of cycles and that was the #2 in the comparison. Found that on walmart.com. I ran Mobil One in all my vehicles for the past 30 years and accumulated over 1MM miles collectively without any major failures, no leaks, no burning, no consumption. 5k miles is a good interval. I'm sure that Motorcraft Full Synth is just fine, but if I can afford the best I'll use it. cheers
Good info. I’m seeing eco boost vids of 250,000 - 300,000 miles and counting. Got a ‘23 Tremor in March (your videos on the order wait helped a lot!) and I’m following your plan. Just ordered the J&L. Question: What’s your thoughts on using adaptive cruise for around town driving and wear and tear on the engine?
Hey Dr. K...I think cruise is fine for around town if the terrain is fairly flat. I personally think that the human brain does a better job of anticipating traffic and loads, especially if hills are involved. You can see an oncoming hill far before your adaptive cruise can, so you can "preload" the momentum (i.e. hit the gas) to better handle a hill...just like a cyclist would. Adaptive cruise, OTOH, goes "oh CRAP!" and has to pour on the boost to maintain the cruise speed as you hit the beginning of a hill. I don't think that adaptive cruise will contribute to unnecessary wear & tear, but more likely poor mileage around town if you have a lot of elevation changes.
Is it just me but ive gotten 300k out of they last 4 vehicles. 1991 mazda 626 550k, sold it for 500. 07 Chrysler 300c 300k sold for 2500, 07 ford expedition 300k still own and tow my rv. I currently have a 2019 ford edge ST only 55k but those engines are well regarded. Just change your oil and other maintenance items and you 2 can have a vehicle that last
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Honda never recommends a transmission fluid flush for two reasons (1 the flush material is very acidic and can cause damage to moving parts to the automatic transmission (2 transmission flush machines use a high pressure system and the pound per square inch of pressure that they use can damage moving parts. Unlike the old school drop pan way of changing automatic transmission fluid that has a torque converter screw, there is no torque converter screw in the new school automatic transmission fluid (ATF) drain plug system so, a TDF is the closest thing to doing ATF fluid change it removes 90% of the fluid and that is what Honda considers a ATF fluid change change the clean the screen and change the filter; however, Honda vehicles in the late 1990s didn’t have a screen or a filter all you did on those models is remove the ATF drain plug and after all the ATF fluid drained out put the drain plug back in place tighten it down and put more ATF fluid back into the system. 🙂
Yep, smack dab in the front of the hood. I got a touch-up kit to cover it but I suspect the better answer is to get one of those clear hood bras on the leading edge. I don't know what their technical name is but probably will soon if I get another ding.
How long will a powerboost last me is my question. I’m actually considering trading in my 18 ram 2500 on a new powerboost. Im ready to be done with diesel I think. Powerboost with max tow seems like the best half ton choice for me
I think we're all wondering that question and the answer won't be known in totality for some time. I would say that the VAST majority of owners that I hear from are head over heels on how well it works, the blend of power and economy in a very polished package. We know a lot about the 3.5L ecoboost and how to maintain it, we know a lot about the 10 speed and the drivetrain. What we DON'T know long term is the battery life nor the durability of the connectors. Like I said, so far it's been exceptional which I why I think it's an excellent candidate for trying to get it to 300k. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 We know a lot about the Hybrid system, the patent was purchased on lease from Toyota, it's a Ford rendition of the exact same hybrid in the toyota Iforce tundra, my guess (commented elsewhere) is the 10 speed won't make 300k and the other major issue is the front diff, i've own 3 f150's and 2 needed the front diff rebuilt before 80k.. They say it's lifetime fluid, maybe they expect short lifetimes. I'd strongly suggest some redline differential fluid in front and rear at the 30-40k mile mark..
I went from a 2020 RAM 3500 SRW Cummins to a 2023 F150 PowerBoost. I've had it for a few weeks now and regret nothing. It runs great, it towed my box trailer no issues (at about 4k lbs unloaded) and overall with All-Terrians, it's such a softer ride... omg. My wife apparently hated riding around in my truck and now she has no issues. It may ride more like a "car" but it still does truck stuff. The sport mode... is amazing. Also all the folks talking about "hunting for gears"... Put it in tow/haul mode when towing. The engine/hybrid/transmission know what to do in that mode and it will also put the parking brake on when you put it in park. I love it, no more fuel filter changes, no more soot issues, oil change can be 10k miles (full synthetic) but going to stick to 5k for now and the generator mode is the best. I have the XLT version and I'm perfectly comfortable. I would also say, the uConnect system has nothing on Ford's Sync system. Night and day. Ford really did a good job with it!
@@wreckitmech306 Wow. Thanks for the comment. Im getting closer to buying a powerboost. Found one with max tow that has just enough features to make the price we are wanting
@@wreckitmech306 great feedback! I just saw a video from a guy that put 475k on a 2011 ecoboost and it still runs like a watch. I think these trucks can last a long time if they are maintained and not thrashed. cheers
With the power boost, it spins down the motor to go on battery while driving under low load. Do you worry about oil coking on the turbo shafts if the turbos are spun down from running while tooling down the road or a power spin down at traffic lights?
No to both. First off, this powertrain's been out for three years now with no reports of systemic early turbo failures. Second, I change oil well before it needs it and have been testing every few changes via blackstone to look for any evidence of oil dilution or metal particles. Probably overkill, this is a strong powertrain.
You should have got the regular 3.5 ecoboost the powerboost is an electrical nightmare,a starter is 7000.00 and they fail often under warranty. Your going to spend 10-20k more in repairs over the 3.5 to save 2000 in fuel over the life of the vehicle. Best way to get to 300,000 miles do it in 5-7 years not 20 years,that’s too long.
What do you think about doing oil changes when the truck itself tells you to? Of course my dealer told me to do that and my powerboost doesn't tell me my oil life is zero till about 14k miles
Mark, I would say "don't listen to me" and instead, check out the content from the guys that work on these engines every single day. There are two channels in particular that are good. @FordTechMakuloco and @FordBossMe. Both of them advise 5k oil changes and can show you engine after engine that was run to 10K and beyond and are full of sludge and clogged turbo screens, etc. You could probably run 10K changes with a really heavy additive package like Amsoil but oil is cheap, engines are expensive. cheers
Here are some interval suggestions I got from another RUclipsr: Front differential 60,000 Transmission fluid 30,000 with pan drop and filter FORD FLUID ONLY Transfer Case 30,000 Rear differential 60,000, if towing a lot go 30,000 Brake fluid every 60,000 or every brake job Spark plugs 50,000 for ecoboost engines engine oil 5000 Power steering fluid 60,000 miles coolant 100,000 for gold, 80,000 for yellow
@@scolson18 That's a good way to NOT have your vehicle last 300,000 miles. The manual recommendations are steered as much by marketing trying to sell the truck as "low maintenance" as by engineering saying what is best for the truck. Every person I've talked to, dealer mechanics, independents, and many sources online, say that the manual recommendations are FAR too long for mileage. As an extreme example, Ford's all wheel drive vehicles like the Flex, they claim that the power transfer unit (equivalent to transfer case for AWD) is "lubricated for life" but at 80,000 miles there will be nothing inside but gritty tar instead of gear lube and they fail A LOT. They actually should be changed at 30 to 50K not "never" as the manual says.
If people would stop buying new trucks at these insane prices this crap would get better. But people are so spoiled they don’t want to wait. Just stop buying!!
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Similarly sir, I would never live under the embarrassment of the barking orange carnival clown, Trump. You may have a good guy in office now (thank God) but the chances are real good Trump may get voted back in next year. Once again the world is on edge with this prospect. If only there was one law for everyone in the US, the rich and the poor.......
John I would say that it's exactly the opposite. If you drove any of that crap that was produced in the 1980's, you'll know that today's vehicles are infinitely better engineered and built for longer service lives. My first car was a 1974 Vega with aluminum block which burned oil at 40,000 miles and rusted itself to death. 100,000 miles on a car back then was a miracle. Granted, there's more tech to break today but let's not romanticize the awful excuse for transport that Detroit built back then.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 OK, things I have personal experience with: a 318 MOPAR, a 350 Chevy, a 302 Ford all only requiring a timing chain at over 250k miles. My 1995 F150 with its 4.9 six has almost 400k on it and is doing fine. The modern shit is shit.
Most people don't understand this. Month-month inflation rate has come down since the supply chain shocks of 2021-2022, but base inflation has remained high. So that inflation "kicker" from 2022 has never gone away. The graph I showed did not imply otherwise, but the RATE of inflation has dropped. I probably should have explained this better in the video, but people are bored by this topic.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 yep,that would have been helpful. But just to chalk it all up to "supply chain issues" ignores a major cause ,the printing of hundreds of billions of dollars injected into the money supply. This can be thought of as dilution .
23 Powerboost getting 32mpg city and 25.5 highway.. but if i wanted 300k i would have bought a tundra. That 10 speed will never get 300k miles. Might be the worst automatic transmission since the fwd taurus's of the early 90's. Edit: NJ and lower NY doesn't use salt, they use sand, and because of there strict emission laws, these places are great places to buy used low mileage vehicles. Especially from dealerships, because the dealers have to warranty the emissions for no less than 90 days.. generally means the vehicles must be actually looked at by mechanics. Also, having lived in NJ/NY my first half of my life and the salt belt the second, don't buy RAM, or tacoma's.. those two trucks don't survive the salt. Generally see a lot of old chevy and ford trucks where the bodies are shot, but the frames are still solid.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 That first to 3rd shift causes a clunk and at low speed it sits on the torque converter confused and won't use 2nd.. starting to think it should have 9 speeds and 2nd was a mistake
@@rustbeltrobclassic2512 The first/third shift PLUS bringing in the ICE used to bother me. It was manageable but clumsy. And then Ford did an OTA update on the software and all of a sudden I start to notice that the issue is basically gone. Quite possibly the learning tables on the tranny updated as well. If you very gently stay in EV mode you can see 2nd gear briefly. Very happy with how smooth the tranny is at 17k.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I think i am missing that update, the mpg is extremely nice and i love the truck, i don't want to sound like i'm complaining, there are really only two or three complaints i have.. which are that transmission missing 2nd shift, i would sacrifice some mpg for the 2nd gear, the turbo charged engine falls on it's face with that skip, which creates a jerk feeling where you can feel the loss, it doesn't do it in sport mode, so i know it's software. 2 is rattles, with a hybrid, it's extremely quiet, but the build quality isn't as good as my 2017, and at 65k+ these trucks need better screwing together.. at 15k i wouldn't care.. and lastly is sync 4. The system works well enough, but they removed the built in navigation system that existed in sync 3. No more free navigation, no more offline gps, which has me now running with maps in the glovebox again, since i go places with no cell service, but not all the time, so i deal with maps again, which sucks, but i guess that's progress..
@@rustbeltrobclassic2512 I'm not a GPS expert but I thought that all smartphones run with some type of GPS so that you can navigate without cell service. Mine certainly does when I'm in the boonies, although I can't use trip routing during offline sessions. The first-third shift is complicated by the introduction of the ICE transitioning from EV off of a start. There's a lot going on in that two seconds that it takes to go from 1st to 3rd off of a line. Sport mode eliminates this because the engine does not shut off. (IIRC) A year ago mine was very clumsy during this transition and now I barely notice it, and it's still going 1st to 3rd. I don't think that adding 2nd will help, what helped mine was the OTA update. Make sure that you tie your connections into your home wifi and make the right settings in your sync4 to allow online updates to happen. They have fixed a lot of things without my (or the dealer's) involvement.
I get that and more out of all my trucks by becoming my own mechanic. ANYONE can learn how (my mother worked assembling PBY Catalina flying boats during WWII and my wife was a skilled helicopter mechanic) so I encourage anyone with an interest to learn a bit and keep at it. Learning to wrench changes your life, saves absurd amounts of money over time, and can make you a DIY beast. Money saved buys any tools you care to own. It only takes determination and profit is a fine motivator. No one will care for your machine like you do because you pay for it. My strategy developed since the late 1970s: Frequent oil and lube changes! Those remove dirt and wear metals. Oil is cheap compared to parts. I change my motorcycle oil every 3K miles (they're mostly air-cooled engines) and truck oil somewhere under 5K. I don't bother being precise since I do it so often. I have never managed to wear out a car or truck top or bottom end (though had one 4.2 Ford hydrolock at ~240K, that problem was never decisively fixed so keep an eye on your oil, I replaced the engine) and I'm not kind to my vehicles. I buy them all used and own none under 23 years old. Own and study factory (preferably) service manuals and other tech data. Learn your machine. RUclips is a great asset but detailed content benefits from forums. Ford Truck Enthusiasts is outstanding. Never buy the first year of any valuable, complex system, not just vehicles. Let rich folk be the beta testers. Never buy "aspirational" vehicles and if you want to know what's reliable ask line mechanics etc online. If you have friends who sell used cars they have a very good idea of what sucks or doesn't. Learn to inspect vehicles and if you buy used try to buy private party from someone who cared for theirs. People who flog their rides don't take care of cosmetic issues and detailing to cover that up is always obvious. CarFax is only useful to CONFIRM BAD NEWS. Absence of bad news is not proof of good news! Many crashed vehicles are fixed privately and not reported for the very logical reason it's cheaper. Many unscrupulous sellers will build a vehicle based on one with clean paper. It's one thing to drive 'em forever having owned from new, but if you choose models wisely (I pick what succeeds in fleet and other commercial use when it comes to drivetrains) you can assemble a truck from organ donors and still drive it for life. My '76 F100 with 350 running gear and my 2000 K1500 with 2WD 6-banger sheet metal and 5.3 4WD chassis from a rollover are examples. You can have big fun treating trucks like Legos. If you like a popular model remember they dry up after a certain point. I remember when '67-'72 Chevys were cheap, etc. If you really like a truck it's a very good idea to own spares and parts if you have the space. Buy 'em cheap and stack 'em deep. I buy trucks with KNOWN defects to cut the price since I'm not in a hurry. A busted engine or transmission craters the price AND you know why the truck is for sale. Used good takeout engines are normally cheaper than an overhaul, but I prefer to get transmissions rebuilt by a volume remanufacturer since they're under no pressure to re-use marginal parts.
You most likey wont with that engine and configuration. At least, not without significant repair costs. Fords higher mileage (200k+) durability on their new "turbo-based" engines has not been good.
Biggest issue has been the phasers which appears to have been corrected. Haven't heard of any issues since 2021 model out and that's now been over 3.5 years.
Hi David...I understand what you are saying but I say "let the numbers tell you what to do." I did oil analysis on my last batch that I ran just short of 5k and there was more fuel in the oil than I'd care to see, plus the oil had thinned to a 5W-20. The total base number was still good but I didn't like the fuel/dilution so I'll check again after the next batch. Something else to consider on the PB is that there is a LOT of on/off on the ICE going on so no one really knows whether that is violating the cardinal sin of stopping oil flow to turbos. Changing early is cheap insurance IMHO but I respect your view. cheers.
The Powerboost is a mild hybrid and you might be surprised the percentage of gas to electric. The real kicker is though, unless you're a real cautious driver, you will be driving under boost some times. This boosted power dirties the motor oil. I now own two Powerboosts and love them; one my personal vehicle '22 PB Lariat 502A0 and a stripped down '23 XLT PB that spends it's day in a quarry and pit mine being pound on. From personal experience and IMO, I feel very good at getting the used oil out of the crankcase at 8000 kms/ 5000 miles. Amsoil SS 5W30.....
@@rdsii64 Rodents love the new soy-based wiring. Fortunately I have owls and hawks in my neighborhood so the little rodents don't stand a chance. Good luck with your truck and I hope you get to your target.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Just saw your battery maintenance video. Later I'm off to replace my battery. My truck isn't doing anything strange yet but the dealership tested it when I had it there for another reason. They told me it tested way to low. Instead of spending 300.00 for a week motorcraft battery, I'll spend that money on a much better one and reset the BMS myself. Its pretty simple. First cycle your bright lights 5 times, then hit the brake 3 times. The battery icon will blink and bob's your uncle. Love your content.
You know, I actually TRIED to buy a Tundra first for this very reason? And they chased me off with their snotty attitude and their "market adjustments." It will take an act of Congress to get me in a Toyota showroom again. cheers
Go ahead and buy a 2022 Tundra, hope you never have an issue with the turbos. Tundra cabs must be separated from the chassis in order to access the turbos, which is a major operation. Or, the entire front clip needs to be removed, according to Pickup Truck Talk. That’s the hood, front fenders, grille, bumper, inner fenders, and associated components.
Hello great video thank you. Thank you for sharing. I just bought a 2020 Ford escape with 40,000 miles on it. I called the Ford dealer to get the rear differential changed and the PTU changed. They would not do it. They said we do not service it lifetime so you don’t need to, change it. I took it to Midas and they were happy to do it so I’m so happy right now that they did. It could not believe that Ford would not do this for me after I just purchased this car from them and an extended warranty, the nerve they wouldn’t change it, but they said they would put a new one in for me cause they wanted like 1500 or $2000 unbelievable.
Michigan = Rust. No one uses more salt. I’ve successfully purchased used Toyota trucks 90-100k and pushed them to 250-300k miles. T100 and 1st gen Tundra. But it’s always the rust and rust related issues that got to them. Never an engine or drive train issue. Full synthetic. Varied brands. A 1/2 quart of Lucas and 5k oil changes. Just traded a 2006 Tundra 257K for a 2020 2.7 F150 with 17K. Plan on maxing this truck out. Have a similar mindset of yours but I love how well thought out and informative your videos are.
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I have a 2010 F150 5.4L Triton. Just flipped 440,000 miles. Changed the water pump at 395,000. Just changed the alternator at 436,000 miles. Still on original starter. I change oil every 7,500 miles. I've been using the synthetic blend since about 75,000. I'm shooting for 500,000. I think I finally bought the last set of tires I'll ever put on this truck.
Sir, you are my hero. Nice work.
I have exact engine, what brand oil and weight do you use
@@lyleswavel320 watch this video: ruclips.net/video/QW2Ieco4xys/видео.html Just about anything synthetic is good, Pennzoil UP and Amsoil are the best.
@@lyleswavel320 I use Valvoline 5W20 MaxLife
@@rss426nc thank you
152,000 and counting on my 2015 2.7 Lariat FX4 super cab. Zero issues. I ordered the truck new, built a carport over my driveway to protect it, and it still looks and acts pretty much like it did when I drove it off the lot. I do my own oil changes at 5000 miles, using Mobil 1 EP. I let the dealer do the other fluid swaps, all by the book for severe service. That’s the key. Also, in North Texas we don’t see road salt. Frame rust won’t be an issue. I’m planning to see 300,000!
I use Mobil 1 EP too. 2015 XLT HDTP 3.5. I'm between Montana and WV though so I see road salt every odd year or so. Eastwood Rust Reformer Plus or Fluid Film takes care of it. I do have to clean the MAF/MAP sensors every so often as the 3.5 is a dirtier engine but I tow often. 139k, nothing other than regular maintenance.
You wont see rust on an aluminum truck regardless. In severe cases, like near salt water you MAY get some corrosion or oxidation. But not rust. At least on the aluminum body and frame
I agree with you! My ‘22 Powerboost Lariat 502A is my dream truck and has been flawless for 37,000 kms.
thanks CW! 73 de W8CS
I Drive a 1995 Chevy Suburban, 350, 4x4, I drive with care and awareness, passion for the vehicle and keep it clean and in tip top shape, the slightest issue pops up. I fix it asap. I change my oil every 3k miles and plan on coolant flushes every 75k, differential fluids every 75k, Spark plugs every 25k (about a 14 months for my driving), I got Wiper blades for summer and early fall and some for late fall through spring (in Montana here), etc
It's got 212k on it and runs like new, I intend to have it till the day I can't drive anymore whether it's kept ice or has to be converted one day, I'm not letting go till I can't use it
I learned that quick upon moving to Montana. Wiper blades don't last long through those winters. That and I get a new windshield every year because rocks and mud tires aren't a good highway mix. Everybody runs them, and about everyones windows are cracked.
Video suggestions: if you plan on following FordTechMakuloco's maintenance intervals you could do videos on - 1.) a trans fluid-only change at 30K miles and, 2.) a fuel filter change at 30K miles.
Check. The trans will be a challenge as it's a very tricky procedure to check fluid alone, yet replace/fill. But I like your suggestion and it might push me over the edge to grab that $200 service manual online. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I plan on ordering the factory-manuals for my 2022 PB soon. I see where the price has gone from $99 to $129. It looks like you no longer can order just the service manual separate from the wiring manual - they've combined them into one, thus the $129 price. Which service manual are you referring to that runs $200?
@@davidc8122 Probably just an off-handed comment about the price of the manuals since I haven't ordered them yet. But I likely will as I'm not thrilled with the level of service that I've gotten lately. cheers
Maintenance is one thing another big thing that people overlook is cleanliness of your vehicle. My car was 8 years old and it looked better then the first day I drove it home. Always keep your car looking clean and keep ahead of the maintenance and your car will always look and run like a new car.
Good suggestion. I am a stickler for maintaining appearance and cleanliness on my vehicles in addition to maintenance. You can eat off my engines, the undercarriages are clean and the body/paint is in very, very good shape as I detail them myself once a year and keep them washed and cleaned year around, and we get pretty snowy winters around here in Colorado. It's a darn shame to see vehicles, perhaps even mechanically well maintained or maybe not, get ratty with the interiors of banged, dented or neglected exteriors as well. If your going to make and investment, which is only second in cost compared to the house you live in, why not maintaining it and keep it nice? I just sold a 98 limited tacoma, with about 140K miles on it and 1st gen TRD blower and it was as nice as when I ordered it from Toyota at ~ 25 years old. It was so nice the shop that I trust to do work on my toyota vehicles, the owner bought it from me 1st thing the minutes I said I was going to sell it as he loved the level of care and pristine condition. I have a 31 year old vehicle with 270k miles that is still running on the original motor and tranny, never rebuild and it's a clean sedan for a run=about here in town. Kudos for the great suggestion!
I agree with you. Thank you for putting chapters on your video.
I couldn't agree with you more about the Powerboost. Mine hasn't seen the shop for a single warranty item yet. And one of the beauties of the vehicle is that you cut down on actual engine mileage by 25 to 30% by virtue of driving in electric mode. I'm getting 18 to 23 miles per gallon in suburban driving, double what I got on my Raptor. That should pay for a lot of oil changes.
Yes, it's surprising how few engine hours that I have considering I'm at 17K now. cheers
Anyone's truck can last 300;000 miles. Just do maintenance and change whatever breaks. Everything can be repaired. It helps if you buy a truck that has parts availability. It helps if you get a body that won't rust though.
You don't need to buy Expensive oils !! I had a 1992 Ford Aerostar Work Van and used Walmart Supertech 10w30 reg oil not synthetic and Supertech oil filter changed every 3500mi and the Van had 473,000 miles on it when i sold it and still was Running Great .
Thanks for posting this. Lots of very good information here that you have provided us. I've gone ahead and placed an order for a catch can for my 2022 Powerboost. And, I plan on following the more frequent maintenance schedule. I'll be ordering a manual, as well. Also, I'll be doing all the same for my wife's 2022 Edge. Thanks, again!
Thanks David! cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 The only thing I would add would be the suggestion to always use Top Tier gas: ruclips.net/video/lED5uX2oTK4/видео.html
Rockin clean, rollin sassy. That's the name of the game baby. That's the name of the game.
I have no idea what this means but it sounds right!
Hello great video thank you. Thank you for sharing. I just bought a 2020 Ford escape with 40,000 miles on it. I called the Ford dealer to get the rear differential changed and the PTU changed. They would not do it. They said we do not service it lifetime so you don’t need to, change it. I took it to Midas and they were happy to do it so I’m so happy right now that they did. It could not believe that Ford would not do this for me after I just purchased this car from them and an extended warranty, the nerve they wouldn’t change it, but they said they would put a new one in for me cause they wanted like 1500 or $2000 unbelievable.
Yeah we'll see what my local dealer says when I say that I want my transmission fluid changed at 30K when they suggest 150k. They are not incentivized to make your vehicle last longer.
pap use to say the way a vehicle is treated & maintenenced in the first 50k miles, determines when it will fail in its last 50k miles.we cant stop normal wear, but we can slow it down substancially.theres quite a few of the old ford rangers in the 300 to 400k mile range still going.but most were taken well care of from the begining.maintenence is cheaper than neglect.
I've gotten 383k miles on a 1999 Dodge RAM, 327k miles from a 1983 Dodge RAM. Now have a 2011 RAM and it'll make it easily to 300k miles. Never a issue with transmission or engine issues, all original. Maintenance and not abusing the vehicle is the key. My wife has a 2007 Subaru Forester that has just turned over 200k.
Thanks Michael, nice work! cheers
Step 6 - My wife's Mini was the first to get turned into rodent salad - they were having babies in the floor void in the trunk... I now do the peppermint spray in about an 8-12 inch barrier around the perimeter of her car on the garage floor, and have not had an issue since, AND it doesn't burn off as fast as if you spray the car directly. They have an incredible sense of smell, so a spray every 6-9 weeks is sufficient. A gallon of the stuff lasts about a year.
Michigan = Rust. No one uses more salt. I’ve successfully purchased used Toyota trucks 90-100k and pushed them to 250-300k miles. T100 and 1st gen Tundra. But it’s always the rust and rust related issues that got to them. Never an engine or drive train issue. Full synthetic. Varied brands. A 1/2 quart of Lucas and 5k oil changes. Just traded a 2006 Tundra 257K for a 2020 2.7 F150 with 17K. Plan on maxing this truck out. Have a similar mindset of yours but I love how well thought out and informative your videos are.
Thanks for the comment and appreciate the kind words, Steve! Am very happy to be living in an area that rarely snows and never uses salt. Literally watched my cars rust away in front of me in the 70's and 80's when I lived in the salt belt.
Oil catch cans are simply the best way to protect your intake valves and intake tract. I had a 98 Chevy Silverado and a 2003 Ford Explorer with over 300,000 and both had catch cans. I know they work because I had to replace the valve cover gasket on the Explorer and it requires a lot of dissembly including the upper intake plenum. Inside that plenum was a spotless oil less piece of plastic that still looked brand new. No coked valves and the entire top end looked like it did when it left the factory. So I believe in these catch cans and because they are so cheap, it’s a cheaper alternative to a top end cleaning or burnt valves. I have a dual set up in my 17 STX with the 2.7 EB, and I dump out about a tablespoon every oil change.
Thanks Steve!
I always run my 2016 F150 v8 in sport mode. It takes stress off of the engine and the transmission. It's got 336,000 miles (rebuilt trans at 307,000) engine sounds and feels new!
Damn. You are my hero.
How does sport mode take stress off the engine and trans?
@@rdsii64 In sport mode, the engine runs at higher rpms, it just sounds like it's not "lugging down." It's like going uphill on a bicycle, the lower the gear, the easier it is to move ahead.
I'm just going to put a fresh engine, trans and rear end on the shelf for when they pop. My 23 lariat high 5.0 has a roush supercharged stage 2 from factory. haha
Just tow the spare parts in a trailer...lol
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I'll save that for race week 🤣 a couple extra driveshafts as well haha. I sure do love the performance game, but anything can happen!
How? Change the oil often and keep it clean and run it with a premium top tier fuel.
3000 mile oil changes, all other regular fluid changes front to rear as well as well as filters and fluid film your chassis and frame!
I enjoyed this video. I am trying to learn as much as I can about my 2012 F-159 Lariat 5.0 4x4. As of 02/2024 it has 145, 372 miles. I am striving to take care of it all the way around, especially the engine. Since 2021 until 02/11/24, I have completed 90% of the things you spoke about in this video. The surface rust I really don’t know what to do about it. My truck is celebrating its 12 birthday this month (Feb) and it’s running and looking good. Just still trying to learn more about maintaining it. Send me more knowledge.
Howdy! All kinds of opinions about surface rust. Few things that you can do about this on body parts without the cancer creeping in again. If you're trying to arrest this on frame and suspension parts, you have a better shot. Start with wire brush/wire wheel in drill and get as much of the crusty stuff broken off. Blow it off and get as much of the loose grit and dust off. At this point I've used products like POR (paint over rust) paint. It's expensive but works well to extend life. I've just done this in the past on my vehicles when I lived in the salt belt. Look for professional opinions and most people will point to prevention as the best thing to do. (if you can prevent something from getting rust cancer in the first place that's your best bet) Good luck with your truck! cheers
i got 584,000 on my 97 ford E 150 with the 4.6 liter engine the body let me down living on long island it rusted out so in 2018 i got rid of it and got a chevy colorado it has 156,000 miles on it
Michael that's amazing! Nice work. cheers
Remember the manufacturer sets suggestions on maintenance to ensure their warranty coverage is good enough to hold off a big fix while your still in warranty coverage. They weigh this against the maintenance cost to the customer. They’re not gonna say to bring your truck in every three months because no one would buy
I bought a 22' PB certified pre-owned 20K mi a couple weeks ago, so I've been watching your vids. Good advice here. I have to do a little polishing of the turd. The first owner/leaser changed oil at 7500 then at 18,000 (yikes). The dealer changed it again at 19,500 to prep for sale. This is the first vehicle I bought a extended warranty for, considering I got a bit burned on another high-tech vehicle in repair costs. So I'm gonna try and go for the other side of long-term ownership, time. The extended is good for 10y / 120K. I'm gonna do my best not to drive the miles off this one so quick and use my POS 15' Jeep Cherokee for commuting. I have that J&L catch can but haven't put it on yet. I'm trying to find out if the dealership will claim it's a warranty voiding item or not.
Once you install the catch can, you'll see how easy it is to swap out that PCV hose should you want to "de-separate" prior to going back to the dealer. I think that most service advisors are smart, there's a huge difference between adding an oil separator vs. running a Livernois tune on your truck.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I thought about doing just that. I'm interested if it will catch anything
@@ByteMyWire Yeah, it'll catch a few ounces of water & oil every few thousand miles. Can't hurt as long as the system stays sealed.
I've not owned anything but Fords, and every vehicle (bought new) has gone over 200,000 miles and even then only junked because of rust, never any mechanical issues. The last couple I finally splurged for getting regular underbody washes (Michigan, salt belt) and they're holding up well. I'm getting Surface Shield undercoating on my new F150 to help with that as well. I have opted to do it myself, the sprayer was $100 and a gallon of product is < $100. I can easily touch it up myself every year. Surface Shield is pretty much the same thing as Fluid Film but is said to go on easier and drip less and is a little sticky to resist power washing.
On the "salt belt" - it's not just in the winter. Many states use salt (brine) spray on gravel roads in the summer as well. Cars in those states can easily be rusted to non-drivable status in 10 years from new.
Agree 100% on everything.
After growing up in Cleveland and watching everything rot to swiss cheese within 10 years or less, it’s been amazing for me to live in the south and see 30 year old cars with zero rust. Like your plan. Cheers John
Your videos are very informative. Would you recommend buying a used powerboost? I am looking at a used 2021 with 60K miles. I am worried about the hybrid battery life.
I would not worry about the hybrid battery life at all. First, Ford does a good job of managing the charge so it's never too high nor too low. This reduces any "wear" or heat cycles. Second, it's a small battery and they are inexpensive. Not like a full hybrid battery nightmare that you've likely heard of where the cost to replace is worth more than the car itself. They're maybe $500 and are warranted for ten years, IIRC. I would check the oil change history on your potential truck, that's 20k/year (which is fine) but how often did they change it?
Agreed on all points
5k oil changes are my threshold for 2.7 ecoboost
Great to see you Doc! I would recommend some Hindenburg Puts as downside protection!
Lol I've been hiding over here in the Witness Protection Program...someone found me! Thanks for the shout Sammy. cheers
😂 I did the Inner Circle program with you. I always enjoyed your take on things along with your wit and sense of humor. Hope all is well!
@@sammyboy892 Wow that brings back memories. Hope you're well. I'm still banging around the options space with readyset.trade and 12minutetrading.com. I just do this Ford stuff for fun, letting my nerd flag fly. cheers
I will most certainly look you up over there. Thanks for the heads up!
Curious as to waht oil you decided to use.. I am currently using Motorcraft Full Synthetic.. it supposed to he good oil and I change it every 5k miles. Currently have 35k on my 21 PB.
Hi Patrick - check out the Project Farm channel where he did an unbiased oil review of several major brands. Amsoil was the clear winner. Even though I can't find it in stores, I decided to sign up for their club so I get free shipping. Otherwise I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for a couple of cycles and that was the #2 in the comparison. Found that on walmart.com. I ran Mobil One in all my vehicles for the past 30 years and accumulated over 1MM miles collectively without any major failures, no leaks, no burning, no consumption. 5k miles is a good interval. I'm sure that Motorcraft Full Synth is just fine, but if I can afford the best I'll use it. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 thanks for the quick reply! Keep up the videos on your PB!
I have a 2017 expedition 3.5 EcoBoost original timing water pump transmission over 210,000 mi still going strong
Nice work!
Good info. I’m seeing eco boost vids of 250,000 - 300,000 miles and counting. Got a ‘23 Tremor in March (your videos on the order wait helped a lot!) and I’m following your plan. Just ordered the J&L. Question: What’s your thoughts on using adaptive cruise for around town driving and wear and tear on the engine?
Hey Dr. K...I think cruise is fine for around town if the terrain is fairly flat. I personally think that the human brain does a better job of anticipating traffic and loads, especially if hills are involved. You can see an oncoming hill far before your adaptive cruise can, so you can "preload" the momentum (i.e. hit the gas) to better handle a hill...just like a cyclist would. Adaptive cruise, OTOH, goes "oh CRAP!" and has to pour on the boost to maintain the cruise speed as you hit the beginning of a hill. I don't think that adaptive cruise will contribute to unnecessary wear & tear, but more likely poor mileage around town if you have a lot of elevation changes.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Makes sense! Recommendation on gas and using premium octane?
Very impormative. A million thanks to you. I will buy 2024 LAriat.
Is it just me but ive gotten 300k out of they last 4 vehicles. 1991 mazda 626 550k, sold it for 500. 07 Chrysler 300c 300k sold for 2500, 07 ford expedition 300k still own and tow my rv. I currently have a 2019 ford edge ST only 55k but those engines are well regarded. Just change your oil and other maintenance items and you 2 can have a vehicle that last
Honda recommends transmission fill and drain (TDF) every 3-years or 30,000 miles. 🙂
I've been around autos most of my life and I have no idea what TDF stands for. Tour De France? 😁
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 it means transmission fill and drain (TDF). 🙂
@@frederickwoodard9551 thanks!
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Honda never recommends a transmission fluid flush for two reasons (1 the flush material is very acidic and can cause damage to moving parts to the automatic transmission (2 transmission flush machines use a high pressure system and the pound per square inch of pressure that they use can damage moving parts. Unlike the old school drop pan way of changing automatic transmission fluid that has a torque converter screw, there is no torque converter screw in the new school automatic transmission fluid (ATF) drain plug system so, a TDF is the closest thing to doing ATF fluid change it removes 90% of the fluid and that is what Honda considers a ATF fluid change change the clean the screen and change the filter; however, Honda vehicles in the late 1990s didn’t have a screen or a filter all you did on those models is remove the ATF drain plug and after all the ATF fluid drained out put the drain plug back in place tighten it down and put more ATF fluid back into the system. 🙂
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I am sorry I didn’t explain what the acronym means I thought you knew what it meant. 🙂
have you ever gotten rock chips on your trucks? if so what did you do?
Yep, smack dab in the front of the hood. I got a touch-up kit to cover it but I suspect the better answer is to get one of those clear hood bras on the leading edge. I don't know what their technical name is but probably will soon if I get another ding.
That is why my iPhone is my OBDII scan tool because my T-Mobile SyncUP app tells you what is causing a CEL fault code. 🙂
How long will a powerboost last me is my question. I’m actually considering trading in my 18 ram 2500 on a new powerboost. Im ready to be done with diesel I think. Powerboost with max tow seems like the best half ton choice for me
I think we're all wondering that question and the answer won't be known in totality for some time. I would say that the VAST majority of owners that I hear from are head over heels on how well it works, the blend of power and economy in a very polished package. We know a lot about the 3.5L ecoboost and how to maintain it, we know a lot about the 10 speed and the drivetrain. What we DON'T know long term is the battery life nor the durability of the connectors. Like I said, so far it's been exceptional which I why I think it's an excellent candidate for trying to get it to 300k. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 We know a lot about the Hybrid system, the patent was purchased on lease from Toyota, it's a Ford rendition of the exact same hybrid in the toyota Iforce tundra, my guess (commented elsewhere) is the 10 speed won't make 300k and the other major issue is the front diff, i've own 3 f150's and 2 needed the front diff rebuilt before 80k.. They say it's lifetime fluid, maybe they expect short lifetimes. I'd strongly suggest some redline differential fluid in front and rear at the 30-40k mile mark..
I went from a 2020 RAM 3500 SRW Cummins to a 2023 F150 PowerBoost. I've had it for a few weeks now and regret nothing. It runs great, it towed my box trailer no issues (at about 4k lbs unloaded) and overall with All-Terrians, it's such a softer ride... omg.
My wife apparently hated riding around in my truck and now she has no issues. It may ride more like a "car" but it still does truck stuff.
The sport mode... is amazing. Also all the folks talking about "hunting for gears"... Put it in tow/haul mode when towing. The engine/hybrid/transmission know what to do in that mode and it will also put the parking brake on when you put it in park.
I love it, no more fuel filter changes, no more soot issues, oil change can be 10k miles (full synthetic) but going to stick to 5k for now and the generator mode is the best. I have the XLT version and I'm perfectly comfortable.
I would also say, the uConnect system has nothing on Ford's Sync system. Night and day. Ford really did a good job with it!
@@wreckitmech306 Wow. Thanks for the comment. Im getting closer to buying a powerboost. Found one with max tow that has just enough features to make the price we are wanting
@@wreckitmech306 great feedback! I just saw a video from a guy that put 475k on a 2011 ecoboost and it still runs like a watch. I think these trucks can last a long time if they are maintained and not thrashed. cheers
THANK YOU
Excellent presentation.
Does the hybrid engine not have an electric oil pump? Toyota definitely does so the engine doesn't keep turning on with no oil pressure.
Yes, the Ford f150 hybrid engine has an electric oil pump, when electric mode shows low oil PSI gauge.
With the power boost, it spins down the motor to go on battery while driving under low load. Do you worry about oil coking on the turbo shafts if the turbos are spun down from running while tooling down the road or a power spin down at traffic lights?
No to both. First off, this powertrain's been out for three years now with no reports of systemic early turbo failures. Second, I change oil well before it needs it and have been testing every few changes via blackstone to look for any evidence of oil dilution or metal particles. Probably overkill, this is a strong powertrain.
What do you think of additives like slick 50?
Haven't used it for 30 years. Off my radar now.
Your video is fantastic! I think like you. Thanks for share your words.
I just bought a 2024 ford ranger 2.3 ecoboost. My goal is to get to 200K which is the max for this engine
Your gas engine is used less then a straight gas option I believe it can do that and more no problem
I think the most likely limiting factor to that goal will be other drivers crashing into me. Drivers are careless, distracted, and unskilled now.
You should have got the regular 3.5 ecoboost the powerboost is an electrical nightmare,a starter is 7000.00 and they fail often under warranty. Your going to spend 10-20k more in repairs over the 3.5 to save 2000 in fuel over the life of the vehicle. Best way to get to 300,000 miles do it in 5-7 years not 20 years,that’s too long.
Thanks John
What do you think about doing oil changes when the truck itself tells you to? Of course my dealer told me to do that and my powerboost doesn't tell me my oil life is zero till about 14k miles
Mark, I would say "don't listen to me" and instead, check out the content from the guys that work on these engines every single day. There are two channels in particular that are good. @FordTechMakuloco and @FordBossMe. Both of them advise 5k oil changes and can show you engine after engine that was run to 10K and beyond and are full of sludge and clogged turbo screens, etc. You could probably run 10K changes with a really heavy additive package like Amsoil but oil is cheap, engines are expensive. cheers
Great video
I'm cutting everything in half or less...
Oil 5k
Plugs 30k
Trans & Diffs 30k
Good video, thanks!
Here are some interval suggestions I got from another RUclipsr:
Front differential 60,000
Transmission fluid 30,000 with pan drop and filter FORD FLUID ONLY
Transfer Case 30,000
Rear differential 60,000, if towing a lot go 30,000
Brake fluid every 60,000 or every brake job
Spark plugs 50,000 for ecoboost engines
engine oil 5000
Power steering fluid 60,000 miles
coolant 100,000 for gold, 80,000 for yellow
I just follow the manual recommendations
@@scolson18 That's a good way to NOT have your vehicle last 300,000 miles. The manual recommendations are steered as much by marketing trying to sell the truck as "low maintenance" as by engineering saying what is best for the truck. Every person I've talked to, dealer mechanics, independents, and many sources online, say that the manual recommendations are FAR too long for mileage. As an extreme example, Ford's all wheel drive vehicles like the Flex, they claim that the power transfer unit (equivalent to transfer case for AWD) is "lubricated for life" but at 80,000 miles there will be nothing inside but gritty tar instead of gear lube and they fail A LOT. They actually should be changed at 30 to 50K not "never" as the manual says.
Thanks for the insight. Never know who or what to trust anymore.
@@scolson18 When in doubt remember oil is cheaper than engines.
@@John_Ridley I always change the oil - fully synthetic blend
Warren Buffet has a Powerboost?
No, he has a 9 year-old Cadillac. He only wishes he had a PowerBoost.
If people would stop buying new trucks at these insane prices this crap would get better. But people are so spoiled they don’t want to wait. Just stop buying!!
You should live in Canada where prices are over 30% higher in $C😢
Canada is a beautiful place filled with wonderfully nice people and I've loved every visit. But I would never live under Trudeau's thumb. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Similarly sir, I would never live under the embarrassment of the barking orange carnival clown, Trump. You may have a good guy in office now (thank God) but the chances are real good Trump may get voted back in next year. Once again the world is on edge with this prospect. If only there was one law for everyone in the US, the rich and the poor.......
Good luck with the PowerBoost.
26k in and no issues. Fingers crossed.
It is pretty sad that with our advancements we can't or won't build a truck that will outlast a truck built 40 years ago.
John I would say that it's exactly the opposite. If you drove any of that crap that was produced in the 1980's, you'll know that today's vehicles are infinitely better engineered and built for longer service lives. My first car was a 1974 Vega with aluminum block which burned oil at 40,000 miles and rusted itself to death. 100,000 miles on a car back then was a miracle. Granted, there's more tech to break today but let's not romanticize the awful excuse for transport that Detroit built back then.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 OK, things I have personal experience with: a 318 MOPAR, a 350 Chevy, a 302 Ford all only requiring a timing chain at over 250k miles. My 1995 F150 with its 4.9 six has almost 400k on it and is doing fine.
The modern shit is shit.
Transmission fluid.
After no later thank 50k miles, ignore the "closed system" marketing gimmick.
If you actually think inflation has come down, you have already reached room temperature.
Most people don't understand this. Month-month inflation rate has come down since the supply chain shocks of 2021-2022, but base inflation has remained high. So that inflation "kicker" from 2022 has never gone away. The graph I showed did not imply otherwise, but the RATE of inflation has dropped. I probably should have explained this better in the video, but people are bored by this topic.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 yep,that would have been helpful. But just to chalk it all up to "supply chain issues" ignores a major cause ,the printing of hundreds of billions of dollars injected into the money supply. This can be thought of as dilution .
23 Powerboost getting 32mpg city and 25.5 highway.. but if i wanted 300k i would have bought a tundra. That 10 speed will never get 300k miles. Might be the worst automatic transmission since the fwd taurus's of the early 90's.
Edit: NJ and lower NY doesn't use salt, they use sand, and because of there strict emission laws, these places are great places to buy used low mileage vehicles. Especially from dealerships, because the dealers have to warranty the emissions for no less than 90 days.. generally means the vehicles must be actually looked at by mechanics. Also, having lived in NJ/NY my first half of my life and the salt belt the second, don't buy RAM, or tacoma's.. those two trucks don't survive the salt. Generally see a lot of old chevy and ford trucks where the bodies are shot, but the frames are still solid.
My 10 speed has been great. I guess time will tell. Thanks Rob
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 That first to 3rd shift causes a clunk and at low speed it sits on the torque converter confused and won't use 2nd.. starting to think it should have 9 speeds and 2nd was a mistake
@@rustbeltrobclassic2512 The first/third shift PLUS bringing in the ICE used to bother me. It was manageable but clumsy. And then Ford did an OTA update on the software and all of a sudden I start to notice that the issue is basically gone. Quite possibly the learning tables on the tranny updated as well. If you very gently stay in EV mode you can see 2nd gear briefly. Very happy with how smooth the tranny is at 17k.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I think i am missing that update, the mpg is extremely nice and i love the truck, i don't want to sound like i'm complaining, there are really only two or three complaints i have.. which are that transmission missing 2nd shift, i would sacrifice some mpg for the 2nd gear, the turbo charged engine falls on it's face with that skip, which creates a jerk feeling where you can feel the loss, it doesn't do it in sport mode, so i know it's software. 2 is rattles, with a hybrid, it's extremely quiet, but the build quality isn't as good as my 2017, and at 65k+ these trucks need better screwing together.. at 15k i wouldn't care.. and lastly is sync 4. The system works well enough, but they removed the built in navigation system that existed in sync 3. No more free navigation, no more offline gps, which has me now running with maps in the glovebox again, since i go places with no cell service, but not all the time, so i deal with maps again, which sucks, but i guess that's progress..
@@rustbeltrobclassic2512 I'm not a GPS expert but I thought that all smartphones run with some type of GPS so that you can navigate without cell service. Mine certainly does when I'm in the boonies, although I can't use trip routing during offline sessions. The first-third shift is complicated by the introduction of the ICE transitioning from EV off of a start. There's a lot going on in that two seconds that it takes to go from 1st to 3rd off of a line. Sport mode eliminates this because the engine does not shut off. (IIRC) A year ago mine was very clumsy during this transition and now I barely notice it, and it's still going 1st to 3rd. I don't think that adding 2nd will help, what helped mine was the OTA update. Make sure that you tie your connections into your home wifi and make the right settings in your sync4 to allow online updates to happen. They have fixed a lot of things without my (or the dealer's) involvement.
I get that and more out of all my trucks by becoming my own mechanic. ANYONE can learn how (my mother worked assembling PBY Catalina flying boats during WWII and my wife was a skilled helicopter mechanic) so I encourage anyone with an interest to learn a bit and keep at it. Learning to wrench changes your life, saves absurd amounts of money over time, and can make you a DIY beast. Money saved buys any tools you care to own. It only takes determination and profit is a fine motivator. No one will care for your machine like you do because you pay for it.
My strategy developed since the late 1970s:
Frequent oil and lube changes! Those remove dirt and wear metals. Oil is cheap compared to parts. I change my motorcycle oil every 3K miles (they're mostly air-cooled engines) and truck oil somewhere under 5K. I don't bother being precise since I do it so often. I have never managed to wear out a car or truck top or bottom end (though had one 4.2 Ford hydrolock at ~240K, that problem was never decisively fixed so keep an eye on your oil, I replaced the engine) and I'm not kind to my vehicles. I buy them all used and own none under 23 years old.
Own and study factory (preferably) service manuals and other tech data. Learn your machine. RUclips is a great asset but detailed content benefits from forums. Ford Truck Enthusiasts is outstanding.
Never buy the first year of any valuable, complex system, not just vehicles. Let rich folk be the beta testers. Never buy "aspirational" vehicles and if you want to know what's reliable ask line mechanics etc online. If you have friends who sell used cars they have a very good idea of what sucks or doesn't.
Learn to inspect vehicles and if you buy used try to buy private party from someone who cared for theirs. People who flog their rides don't take care of cosmetic issues and detailing to cover that up is always obvious.
CarFax is only useful to CONFIRM BAD NEWS. Absence of bad news is not proof of good news! Many crashed vehicles are fixed privately and not reported for the very logical reason it's cheaper. Many unscrupulous sellers will build a vehicle based on one with clean paper.
It's one thing to drive 'em forever having owned from new, but if you choose models wisely (I pick what succeeds in fleet and other commercial use when it comes to drivetrains) you can assemble a truck from organ donors and still drive it for life. My '76 F100 with 350 running gear and my 2000 K1500 with 2WD 6-banger sheet metal and 5.3 4WD chassis from a rollover are examples. You can have big fun treating trucks like Legos.
If you like a popular model remember they dry up after a certain point. I remember when '67-'72 Chevys were cheap, etc. If you really like a truck it's a very good idea to own spares and parts if you have the space. Buy 'em cheap and stack 'em deep.
I buy trucks with KNOWN defects to cut the price since I'm not in a hurry. A busted engine or transmission craters the price AND you know why the truck is for sale. Used good takeout engines are normally cheaper than an overhaul, but I prefer to get transmissions rebuilt by a volume remanufacturer since they're under no pressure to re-use marginal parts.
For what a truck costs today you should get a million miles or more.
challenge accepted...:--)
You most likey wont with that engine and configuration. At least, not without significant repair costs. Fords higher mileage (200k+) durability on their new "turbo-based" engines has not been good.
Biggest issue has been the phasers which appears to have been corrected. Haven't heard of any issues since 2021 model out and that's now been over 3.5 years.
5k oil change on a pb is too often imo...a good portion of those miles is electric! 7500minimum....imo
Hi David...I understand what you are saying but I say "let the numbers tell you what to do." I did oil analysis on my last batch that I ran just short of 5k and there was more fuel in the oil than I'd care to see, plus the oil had thinned to a 5W-20. The total base number was still good but I didn't like the fuel/dilution so I'll check again after the next batch. Something else to consider on the PB is that there is a LOT of on/off on the ICE going on so no one really knows whether that is violating the cardinal sin of stopping oil flow to turbos. Changing early is cheap insurance IMHO but I respect your view. cheers.
The Powerboost is a mild hybrid and you might be surprised the percentage of gas to electric. The real kicker is though, unless you're a real cautious driver, you will be driving under boost some times. This boosted power dirties the motor oil. I now own two Powerboosts and love them; one my personal vehicle '22 PB Lariat 502A0 and a stripped down '23 XLT PB that spends it's day in a quarry and pit mine being pound on. From personal experience and IMO, I feel very good at getting the used oil out of the crankcase at 8000 kms/ 5000 miles. Amsoil SS 5W30.....
I had to replace a wiring harness on my 2006 F150 because rodents got up in there and chewed away.
I'll send my Lab after them.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Appreciate it. I have a 2018 STX 4x4 supercab now. I'm trying to make this one last at least 400K.
@@rdsii64 Rodents love the new soy-based wiring. Fortunately I have owls and hawks in my neighborhood so the little rodents don't stand a chance. Good luck with your truck and I hope you get to your target.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Just saw your battery maintenance video. Later I'm off to replace my battery. My truck isn't doing anything strange yet but the dealership tested it when I had it there for another reason. They told me it tested way to low. Instead of spending 300.00 for a week motorcraft battery, I'll spend that money on a much better one and reset the BMS myself. Its pretty simple. First cycle your bright lights 5 times, then hit the brake 3 times. The battery icon will blink and bob's your uncle.
Love your content.
Thanks Biden
Buy a Toyota.
You know, I actually TRIED to buy a Tundra first for this very reason? And they chased me off with their snotty attitude and their "market adjustments." It will take an act of Congress to get me in a Toyota showroom again. cheers
Go ahead and buy a 2022 Tundra, hope you never have an issue with the turbos.
Tundra cabs must be separated from the chassis in order to access the turbos, which is a major operation. Or, the entire front clip needs to be removed, according to Pickup Truck Talk. That’s the hood, front fenders, grille, bumper, inner fenders, and associated components.
Sell your Ford and buy a chevy....that's how you get to 300k!
Good point. That way you can put a 100 K on the Chevy and 200 K on loaners while it's in the shop.
Best joke on the internet.
MURICA!!!!! After driving Hondas for the last 40 years it's nice to be proud of something domestic again, Ford or Chevy. cheers
@@bc4evernow I agree, Chevys are jokes except to the poor people who bought them.
Hello great video thank you. Thank you for sharing. I just bought a 2020 Ford escape with 40,000 miles on it. I called the Ford dealer to get the rear differential changed and the PTU changed. They would not do it. They said we do not service it lifetime so you don’t need to, change it. I took it to Midas and they were happy to do it so I’m so happy right now that they did. It could not believe that Ford would not do this for me after I just purchased this car from them and an extended warranty, the nerve they wouldn’t change it, but they said they would put a new one in for me cause they wanted like 1500 or $2000 unbelievable.
Michigan = Rust. No one uses more salt. I’ve successfully purchased used Toyota trucks 90-100k and pushed them to 250-300k miles. T100 and 1st gen Tundra. But it’s always the rust and rust related issues that got to them. Never an engine or drive train issue. Full synthetic. Varied brands. A 1/2 quart of Lucas and 5k oil changes. Just traded a 2006 Tundra 257K for a 2020 2.7 F150 with 17K. Plan on maxing this truck out. Have a similar mindset of yours but I love how well thought out and informative your videos are.
Great content