How To Perform A Coolant Flush On Your Ford Vehicle
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- Опубликовано: 24 ноя 2014
- Here is the Gold Coolant I used from Motorcraft-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
This is the only coolant flush chemical I use-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
In this video I go over my method for flushing the cooling system on Ford vehicles. This is a very through way of flushing the system out of debris and scale. Ford Taurus vehicles with a very rusty coolant condition please follow this alternative method-
• NO HEAT: Ford Taurus R...
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Thanks to you, my wife and kids think I'm a car genius. Much appreciated for all your videos, even the old ones :)
Might not be a genius but you can call yourself a mechanic now
Especially the old ones! I own own a 05 f-150.
Sometimes even geniuses must still learn in order to be able to translate their abilities into something that can be understood. So you might have some hidden powers
Your not supposed to use tap water. You supposed to use distill water. Tap water has minerals in,it which can c a use eros
@@KrishnaSingh-ow1ie Only distilled water is required for use in aluminum radiators. This is a copper radiator, so distilled water is not required. Tap water is acceptable here.
God bless the man who TELLS YOU WHAT SIZE WRENCH to use! Thank you.
Just wanted to say thank you, personally. Your vids have helped me so much, being a first time F150 owner. Bought one in bad shape and your vids have been my guide. I appreciate the time you've taken. God bless ya
How's the bad shape 150 treatin ya 4 years later?
I'm new to ford with a completely destroyed explorer and your videos have really helped me out. Thanks so much for your time and dedication and even service.
Brian thanks so much for all you videos I been a Ford owner for 40 years Its nice to click your videos to see how you do it nice slow well explained. You been my go to guy for all my Ford and Mercury cars and Trucks thanks
Love your channel. It’s been extremely helpful while servicing my 10-12 Fusion with no automotive skills.
I really appreciate every video you do on ford, legit man you saved me so much time and money.
Great video. I've always been leery to flush my own radiator, but I can do this after watching you do it. Thanks!
We have some pretty hard water in my area, so I didn't use tap water. On my '03, I merely drained the radiator and refilled with distilled water, drove around for 10 minutes with the heater on to insure the heater core got flushed too. Repeated that procedure 6 times, I think it was, until finally it looked like clear water draining into the bucket. Then I added 2 gallons of Ford Gold coolant to top it off. Checked with a specific gravity meter, it shows 59%. At only 88,470 miles, the original coolant still looked clean but it was 17 years old at the time. I didn't use any kind of coolant flush chemical. That was 3 years ago almost to the day. I don't drive it that much. Maybe 1500 miles between annual oil changes. Been subscribed to your channel a couple years now.
"2 gallons" 50/50 or concentrated? Like how many gallons of distilled u used?
hose water in my area will set-up like concrete...distilled water is best...agree 100%
@@MrEdgardotcom 2 Gallons of concentrated Ford Gold coolant. The system holds 17 quarts, so 8 quarts of concentrate is close to a 50/50 mixture.
I use distilled water too. Can’t really do a complete drain without opening the plugs on the engine block.
Excellent video. Exactly what we did at Ford dealership also. I would usually explain this same process to people, now I can just refer them to you. 👍
Ford Taurus vehicles with a very rusty coolant condition please follow this alternative method-
ruclips.net/video/KfjE0RGVFJ0/видео.html
Hey man I watched your video on RUclips referring the 5.4 3v engine timing chain installation. I'm kind of stuck because my passanger side camshaft sprocket said L when it should have an R like ok in your video can you help please?
Gilberto Moran The new phasers have both an L and R just line up the timing for the appropriate side and letter.
Thanks for you help man .
Let me ask you something, tech to tech, can you tell me you ACTUALLY do this for every- flush cooling system of contaminants you get on your RO's?? your more than likely just a drain and fill.... I feel bad when i get this on a ticket and i do a drain and fill and the coolant still looks like shit... flat rate baby! FTW! haha
Gatorsrok that's called fraud saying one thing and charging for something that didn't get done. Got ford in a pickle cause my dash cam recorded the entire process after they said they can and will do a complete flush. Even went as far as our "expensive machines do it, flushes and fills" haha. After catching them in a lie per dash cam their reply was, we can't flush the entire system so that's why we add preservative/conditioners in to help with the other 2.5 gallons we can't get out. 😂😂 talk about a crock of 💩. If your wondering this was on a 2011 f150 5.0. Not attacking ya just saying theirs obviously a trust issue with that statement 🤙🏼
Really appreciate you teaching and sharing this knowledge with us. Thanks
Great video! As a pro just curious how much time do you bill for and how long does the job usually take. Keep your videos coming. So good.
Thank you that was very simple and easy to follow and truly appreciated
Great videos sir. You do a great job and have taught us all many tips , tricks and techniques. I had a question. I'm planing on doing a water pump and t stat and replacing Ford's o rings in hoses this weekend. Would you flush before or after the install? My water at home is really hard and i thought by doing it before, i would get a lot more of my hard water out of block but not sure. It hasn't been flushed ever, with 100k. Thanks for any advice
Just did this on a 2011 expedition. I used Motorcraft VC-3B coolant. It took me about 3 hours. The hose I attached to the radiator was a 3/8" and was about 6 feet in length. The petcock is on the passenger side by the bottom right hand corner of the radiator fan. You can get to it without removing anything else, but it's a tight squeeze for bigger dudes. I used a flathead screwdriver to loosen it as the petcock on my vehicle was round and grooved so a wrench wouldn't work. If you use a stubby flathead you can unscrew it like a normal screw as there is a large groove cut out in the center.
I want to thanks you for this video. I had to replace the radiator in my F150 due to a small leak. So I watched your flush process and did it yesterday. All went ok and I have a new motor craft RAD22 and filled it up with the Zerex G05 coolant. I learned a lot that I never knew regarding engine coolant in the process. I also learned that the 5.4 holds approx 2 gal and the rad is approx 1 gal. I have a 2010 Taurus to do next as it's at the 6 yr recommended interval. Thanks again.
For Northern climates I would check the final water/antifreeze mixture to make sure it can withstand -40 below.
@Richard Thomas wear warm clothes
@Richard Thomas some of us work 8 hours a day in -40 to -50
I just have to say thank you very much...
Your videos are very helpful.
I have been subscribed to your channel ever since I purchased my '05 4.6 l V8 rear wheel drive F-150.
You're the first place I go to find information on what I need to do for my vehicle and I cannot thank you enough.
I filed your procedure exactly!
The only thing I did different was after I ran the vehicle flushing it with water to get the cleaning solution out and let the system drain once clear of the cleaning solution.
With the cap off the reservoir tank and the drain plug from the radiator completely removed. I started the vehicle and ran it 10 to 15 seconds then shut it off. Then another half gallon to 3/4 gallon of clear water drained out.
Then I filled it with cooling solution.
Hopefully I didn't mess anything up.
I've used your channel to do a complete rotor, caliper, brakes and brake system flush.
Complete coolant system flush.
New front Monroe coil spring and strut assemblies replacement.
Oil change, throttle body cleaning,
Starter replacement.
Rear pinion seal replacement and differential fluid.
Power steering system fluid replacement.
New spark plug replacement.
Front wheel hub assemblies replacement.
Got the truck body mint condition for only $1250.00.
201,000 miles.
Runs like a top!
Thank you again so very much, so informative and professionally done.
God bless you
I have the exact same truck and I am having trouble with the heater.
@@rexdelosangeles8074 what is your heater doing?
Covered all bases, crystal clear, a good presentation.
Good job! Very thorough. We can't ask for more...
Love your vids! I admire people with passion when doing their work the proper way. I have always done all my maintenance and repairs on all my vehicles so I know that it gets done right every time. My 19' F-250 6.7 diesel has 48k miles and want do do a complete coolant change of the primary and secondary cooling systems. Is it possible for you to do a video on that procedure? Keep up the good work👍
That’s what I’ve been looking for as well. Would be really helpful to have a video of that
Just THANK YOU. That says it all.
If you ever come to Oaxaca México let me know, it will be my pleasure to share a meal.
The best videos, by far.
Hello, thanks for all of your helpful videos. Recently, I replaced the Coolant bypass solenoid c in my 2013 Escape 1.6 for a p26b7 code. I initially lost some coolant and made sure I topped it off after the repair. After about 1000 miles I just received a low coolant warning and noticed that the coolant level was low in the reservoir. Have you come across this issue before? My initial thought is that I introduced air into the system and it has worked itself out by now, but I am afraid it could be worse.. EEEK
If you can access the coolant drain plugs in your block it's a good idea to open those up when you are flushing the system with your garden hose.
Yeah but for the DIYer you don't need to. You'll just be introducing more air into the system. You have to be careful too because sometimes it's damn near impossible to get air out deep down in the block without having to take into the garage. Just saying. I myself don't recommend the Do it yourselfer to do that but not my vehicle just remember there is that chance of it happening. If it happens your looking at a new flush but garages hook up a suction tool with shut off valve connected to a air compressor to suck all that air out from the block and will use another line that is connected with a different shut off valve for the feeding system to put new coolant in. Most DIY people don't have that.
Thanks for this, exellent vid, helped a lot!
Thank you so much for this video. I need to do this on my Mercury Mountaineer and wanted to ensure I could do a good job. I think I can now. great work and thanks for sharing 😊
I like your videos. Always with good info, and to the point. You have a lot of class.
Will this method work on an E99 F250 7.3 PSD? Thanks.
Can you do this same procedure on a 1990 ford f250 7.3 diesel
Really appreciate your videos. Can you please do a Video on Coolant Flush with Thermostat change on A 2008 Ford Edge? Soon. Thanks
First time watching this video and I like the professionalism. I'll definitely follow this video when I do my coolant flush next week.
During the flush with the engine running, wont the thermostat close because of cooling down and when you cut the engine off to drain, there be some semi rusty water left in the water jacket of the engine?
Really enjoy all your videos thanks buddy have a wonderful week.
What about using an air compressor (~20psi) to remove the TAP water that's still trapped in the system before adding antifreeze? Also, is it okay to top up the system (Motorcraft VC-3B) with DexCool in a 2012 MKZ 3.5L?
great Video!
Question,
I have a 04 F150 4.6L 2V and i want to do a complete Coolant Flush/Refill but I also want to change Hoses and Thermostat.
Should I Flush with the Chemical Flush VC-1 before i swap out the Rad Hoses and Thermo or after the Parts change out?
thank you for any help.
Would you recommend this same procedure for a 2011 F250 6.7L? Thanks!
One question. The water at the end of this, still inside the engine block ,is NOT distilled water. Distilled water is recommended when adding antifreeze when it isn't 50% already diluted. Wouldn't it be better to add distilled water in the reservoir to flush out remaining undistilled water before adding the last step antifreeze? Or is it such a small amount it doesn't matter?
**** Looks like this was covered in another post.
Will this procedure work on my 2007 ford expedition? It's 2wd and has rear heat 5.4L V8
I have an 03 Expy EB and I haven't seen a lot of videos about that particular truck with 5.4 2v. Was wondering if all procedures are the same as 1997-02 and 04-08 Expys.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and I like the music in the background to.
How precise do you have to be when mixing the 100% coolant with the water that you estimate that is in the block??
Mak is the best,wish you were here in my town...Love your work...You should have a TV show...
Hey, great video. Very informative and I will be flushing my coolant within the next few days. One thing that I’m not all that clear on, is after I flush the system with water how can I just fill it with 50/50? Im not very good at figuring percentages of fluids. I drive a 2014 Ford F-150 XL, 3.7 engine, flex fuel.
Thank you so much for this video! I did this procedure along with flushing out the heater core and I now have heat in the cab again!
arnuffdog also good to check the heater core for lint, dust, leaves and such if you don’t have a pre-filter the air intake side.
Great videos, love your channel esp. all the 5.4L 3v advice! On this video, are you worried about introducing cool water to a hot engine and cracking something?
+srpope80 Engine internal cooling passages are hot but nothing to worry about as the cold water mixes before it enter the block even then the mass of the block it can handle it.
You bring up a good point. If your car overheats, when it is cool enough to open add the cold water with the engine running.
The thermostat closes up during the cold water flush. If you are at home and not worried about paying shop hours, then go ahead and close the drain plug during a few drain and fil, wait for temp to go up with the heat on full red, this will circulate the gunk in the heater core and allow it to drain out on the next drain dump.
I've got a 2010 5.4 F-150 that doesn't have a pressurized de-gas bottle. so I can still clean the coolant reservoir, but do the actual flush through the radiator neck?
I need to do a coolant flush and tstat replacement on a 2000 5.4 2v. The temp gauge only stays cold so I'm assuming stuck open? Should I flush with this happening first or is there anything you'd adapt from the procedure in this video? Great channel, cheers!
Great video! Thanks. But is there any risk to using tap water to refill the cooling system with unknown acidity and contaminants instead of using gallon jugs of distilled water purchased from the store to refill?
You could use either but you must know your water source if you are going to be using tap water.
Really appreciate your detailed maintenance videos! I'm hoping you can provide some insight.
How does the fresh/cold water make its way to the water pump and engine? Wouldn't it just go into the degas bottle > radiator > out the open drain petcock?
Can you suggest a coolant flush method for a Fiesta? My research suggests that it doesn't have a drain petcock - so people remove the lower radiator hose.
I have to change the thermostat as well on my f150 4.6. Would it be a good idea the leave the thermostat out while flushing so to really flush the whole system though the entire process?
Thank you! This worked great!
Which is better for my Ford Edge
Green VC-10-A2 vs Orange VC-3-B
Region Southern California
Could I follow the procedure you’ve outlined in this video. Then at the end pull out the drain plugs on the block to get the rest of the clean water out then refill with 50/50?
Same boat…already bought 50/50. I was just gonna maybe go exchange one of my 4 bottles for undiluted and call that about good?
What’d you end up doing?
Awesome vid
Quick question is this process the same if your truck doesn’t have a degas bottle
My 2006 f150 doesn’t have one
thanks again for your help with the actuator
The Process from about 6:30 on... Is it good to be pouring cold water in and through a hot coolant system? That makes me nervous about rapid expansion/contraction issues.
I’d rather have a dirty system then cracked heads. It’s happened to me before.
Thank you! Great video. I just bought a 2004 f150 with 5.4 and 82k miles. I will be doing this procedure...
5/30 synthetic oil.
I use 5w40 rotella synthetic on mine from 2012 to present with no issues. I wanted the oil thicker once hot.
@Sea Life it's actually recommended by this Chanel
Picked up a 09 5.4 I changed the oil and put 5-20 MC synthetic blend. It’s what the book said is 5-30 still better? Live in Phoenix
Would you recommend a system flush when replacing the Temp sensor?
Engine ticking and knocking is giving me flashbacks of my last truck. So glad to have the 5.0L now, so much smoother.
My truck has 308000 miles and has had cam phaser knock since 65k..lmao..still runs good ..drives me nuts tho.
I've watched your previous video and it seems that the tap-water method is not applicable to the new Yellow-coolant spec of Motorcraft coolant. I think I'll just do a fill then drain method using lots of distilled water to be sure. Great video.
same. i am picking up a 12 fusion w/68k original miles. i want the new stuff instead of a mix of old and new.
Please explain the fill/drain method.
@@ninbendoyt3203 open radiator drain, gets about 1 gallon out usually. About 2 gallons still left in the system. Fill reservoir with distilled water and let engine run or drive around so the water mixes with the old coolant and then drain again. Repeat until water comes out clear and fill with appropriate concentration of coolant to get at least a 50/50 mix. No garden hose used since the tap water has chemicals that will cause damage to cooling system, so only distilled water is used.
@@Arturo-im1nh ^ this is the best way of doing it imo
Great video, any possibility for a brake fluid flush video in the future?
yes
It's the same method, just put the water hose into your brake fluid reservoir!
@@stugler6939 🤣🤣🤣
Great tip, can I do this with a Lincoln MKX 2011 3.7 ltr?
Awesome needed a fresh up haven't done in 25 yrs bu now have too good video ty
Do you recommend we take out the plug on the block too or is it something that's optional? Thank you 😊
@@nastysoda9212 why's that?
If anyone is worried about iron in their hard water coming from an untreated outside the house spigot, go and buy some cheap distilled water from the grocery store. But I think you can also get some softened water from inside your house and not worry about sediment or iron.
I'm at the coast where hard water is an issue and the outside hose isn't run through the water softener. I've seen elsewhere about using distilled water. Too, he's running a lot of water through there and can the same be accomplished with gallon jugs of distilled water?
Thanks for posting this. Great info
I suspected I might have to back flush the heater core before doing this. Do you have any videos demonstrating of that back flush?
Thank you for the video I only have one question. My owners manual to my 2010 Mustang says to only used distilled water. I did a coolant flush at about 45000 miles by draining the radiator, filling will clear distilled water, running engine to open thermostat then run engine a few minutes and repeated this process until the water draining out is clear. Then refilled with Motorcraft gold coolant. Is this method ok to use? Using a garden hose the water isn't distilled. Thank you kindly.
That's a Diesel he's flushing
@@Shonuff42080 it's not a diesel, it's a gasser F-150
@@bahopik yeah I see know thanks
If you have residue in the expansion tank, remove it any way possible rather than trying to flush it through the system because mostly all of the residue will end up in the heater core and/or cores. Like Expedition Eddie Bauer rear hvac.
Would you still use tap water if you were flushing on a newer ford to switch from the orange coolant to Yellow? wouldn't it contaminate the system for when its refilled with distilled and yellow?
I went to 3 ford dealer parts here in Oregon, and ask for the coolant flush chemical, they don't carry that one, in fact they use another aftermarket brand: 2 dealers use MOC RADIATOR FLUSH KIT (cooling system fast flush and cooling system treatment). and the 3rd one use JUSTICE BROS JB (radiator cleaner and cooling system protector). Those cannot be found on the aftermarket parts store, (Advance, Autozone, Baxter, O'reilly) only at one dealer (more than $40). I know i can find them online, but how to choose?
thanks brian! make sure to test the coolant afterwards with a boil/freeze tester to make sure it's at least a 50/50 mix. I usually pull the lower hose at the start to really evacuate the sediment. Great videos brother!!
+Mark K If they are that bad yes we do that on the Taurus vehicles with the rust issue.
@@skjoe1115 especially when it is filled with the gold coolant!!
Thanks for the video. I am trying to figure out how much coolant to order for my 2001 F150 SuperCrrew. My owners manual states 25-25.5 quarts capacity (6.25 Gal). So if I mix at a ration of 60% Coolant/40% water...then I would need 3.75 Gal's of coolant??? but there is water trapped in the system.....so I dont know how much to add.
Do you know how much water is trapped in the system after flushing?
Do you know how much coolant I should purchase?
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I know this comment is 3 years late, but maybe this will help someone else. Don't overthink it; you need 3.75 gallons of straight, undiluted coolant (25 quarts x 60% = 15 quarts or 3.75 gallons). It doesn't matter how much water is trapped in the system - just add your 15 quarts and then fill to the line with water and you'll be dead on.
OEMS RECOMMEND 50-50 MIX RESULTING IN A - 34 DEGREE FREEZE POINT. THUS 25.5 /2 = 12.75 QUARTS THEN TOP OUT WITH WATER.
Thanks this process did great for me
so if you know the cooling system holds 5.4 gallons and there is left over water in the block after flushing why do you need to approximate the percentage of antifreeze to water when you refill? why not just fill with 2.7 gallons of anti freeze and then top off until full with water. then you would have the perfect 2:1 mix. am I missing something? thanks. doing mine this weekend so I hope I do it correctly.
If you wan to scrub that recovery tank clean. You can use crushed ice and it will scrub it clean as new. I did mine this summer as it was really bad brown. And it was the hardest one to do as it had 4 dividers in it but 30-40 mins of shaking it was like new.
+Claude “Reviews4U” Rains Nice tip!!!!!!!!!!!
Claude Rains what makes the coolant in the expansion tank look all gunk/sludged like?
Its rust residue from the engine block. Carrier back by the coolant....
kchilz32 motorcraft products
Claude Rains I spray painted mine gloss white looks Great no need for the ice.
When I cleaned out my tank, removed the tank, flushed it out, added a very small rag wrapped around a powerful magnet. With another magnet I used it to control and scrub the tank inside of the tank almost 100 percent clean. It was better than any brush and blower.
MrPrios1 now that is some dedication to maintenance👍🏽
Can you link theose magnets
@@Juh02078 Any good speaker or electric toothbrush magnets. When i destroy broken equipment I keep useful parts.
This video reminds me to my problem with the water pump, this thing is so tricky, it tooks me two days to figured out that it is what causing the heating issue
I believe my thermostat isn’t opening fully since my thermostat just sits above the 1/4 mark on the gauge but I want to flush the system but I’m not going to be able to get the engine up to temperature. What do you suggest change the thermostat first then do the flush afterwards. Thanks I really enjoy watch your videos I have learned a lot from them..
Bro! Where have you been all my life! 😆 🤣 😂
Do you have a shop here in chicago. I like your dedication towards your work is it possible for you to work on my car. It's a 2011 ford taraus 3.5L Limited 103kmiles. Just need a coolant flush and a tune up.
Just west of Chicago yes, you can submit a service request here- bsgautomotive.com/
Thank you I will definitely make an appointment in a few days
I haven't been able to be at his shop yet I'm saving up some $.
But I will go I promise that
And do I HAVE to use motorcraft coolant, can I use the green Prestone?
Is this recommended on a 2012 F-150 5.0 8cyl? Some say that too much "dirty" water gets left behind. Also making it hard to judge how much concentrated coolant to use.
Just one question, where will it be safe to let water tainted with coolant drain to? Most of us dont have a garage with a drain catch and a seperatoe.
Most part stores and auto shops will take your old fluids and recycle them for you. You never want to dump any fluids onto the ground where it can taint the environment
Just go buy a bin at the dollar store let it drain into that then funnel it into empty coolant bottles take it to auto zone…and return it…jk recycle it
I have a couple of questions;
1. what is your opinion on the use of distilled or ionized water, to flush, as opposed to the potable water that you used here?
2. in the case of a neglected cooling system,( ie.2003 f150 5.4l, VIN L, 273000 kms, never unflushed), what is your opinion on leaving the cleaning additive in the engine for a three day heavy duty cleaning, do you recommend it or not, and why?
So no reply yet? Good ??s I want do this right!
@@CaliAndrew18 use distilled to flush
I do have a question. I have an 2003 Expedition that's losing coolant at a rate of 1/2 or so gallon per 100 miles. Engine idles and runs fine with no misfires, no signs of leak anywhere, cooling system holds normal pressure, no coolant mixing with oil. I'm suspecting that there's a leak from the block straight to the exhaust manifold? What's your take on this? Thanks in advance.
Can this be done on the newer models that use the orange and yellow coolants? As you said in your one video explaining the differences the new coolant doesn't like tap water so can this still be done?
Can you perform this procedure with the new yellow P-OAT coolant? Or, do you need to flush with distilled water since the yellow reacts harshly to tap water?
Yes I would like to see that too.
@Fish03 I'm worried about this as well. While I love this channel I also realize this video is extremely old! I'm going to use distilled water to be safe. It certainly can't hurt!
Ah yes the beautiful sound of the 3v cam phaser knock
I just pretend it came from the factory like that.
Mine is been doing that for 80,000 miles now...
That's how you know it's a 5.4
That's the fuel injectors you hear, the phaser "tick" is different.
I thought it was a diesel at first
Hi excellent video and thank you appreciate it. Have question does it apply also to 2012 Ford Explorer 2.0ltr. 4cyl. engine Limited Eco-Boost...thanks again and more video please.....Happy New Year and be safe be well.
I had to change the coolant to my Ford fusion 2008, I put it to drain the coolant and after I finished draining the 50/50 concentrated refrigerant the full gallon did not have to add more water I think there was old refrigerant in the system. I did it right or do I have to change everything again? I don’t flush the system
So I have an 07 escape and I just passed 100,000 miles. My question is, do I need to flush the system or would a simple drain and refill work? The coolant is still nice and clear so I'm pretty confident that the system is still in pretty good shape and isn't all scaled up or rusty. Do you think that just a drain and refill would replace enough coolant to make it worthwhile?
Bill Thomas A drain and fill would be just fine but the method shown here is absolute best.
FordTechMakuloco hopefully you read this!! i have a 2013 f150 ecoboost with 104,000 on it. a few months ago i noticed my overflow was empty! i took it to deal and they looked high and low and cannot figure out where it went. they topped me off and sent me on my way. i have to add 1/2 gallon every 3 weeks or so to keep the cold level within range. now, sometimes in the morning when i start my truck the exhaust shows as if its cold outside even thoe its 80°f. is it maybe leaking thru the turbo? another issue, when i get to wherever im going i shut the truck off and when i get out and shut the door as soon as the door slams shut i hear a sizzle sound from somewhere up front but cannot find it. hopefully you can help!
ps. i have found small puddles below truck usually midline center of truck and of course exhaust tip. the puddle doesnt smell of coolant but it feels lubricated and clear as water. if i use octane booster or a injector cleaner everytime i get gas it reduces that so im assuming we have crap gas. i cannot afford premium fuel so i use midgrade and stp injector cleaner every time i gas up. i have noticed the truck runs better with less rough ecoboost idle shake.
@@jt7559 It's probably aslow leak at the reservoir hose, there is a replaceable o-ring in there below a white plastic ring. There are also o-rings in the T located below the throttle body and in the lower radiator hose. Check out Tuff Rings. For a few bucks you can replace all of these and fix most known leak points. About to do my 2012 F150 as I have the same issue. BTW at night you might be able to see/hear some steam escaping the tank hose connector right after you get home from a drive!
I've got an '08 F150 5.4L with 70K and plan on doing this flush soon. Do you recommend replacing the thermostat now? Why or why not. Also, are you not using distilled water b/c they system has so many contaminants in the system at this point?
Hound3006 If you are doing the flush then yes do it while the system is drained. I did not use distilled water because this was a customer job and the dealer does not pay for distilled water.
Thanks
Does this process no longer apply with the new p-oat coolant as you said it reacts with tap water. So all that tap water left on there would react with the new coolant. How could you flush with distilled water?
Great video! Just replaced coolant with full flush at 2015 Ford Transit 350 XLT. Also, replaced hose assembly with H & Y shaped joints since it was leaking. Found crack on plastic H-joint right on the stitch - manufacturer defect. For some reason only 1gallon of coolant came out from drain plug. Also, another 1.5qt came out after I disconnected hose assembly. But Autozone says it should be total 14-16qt in my system. I'm confused... I put 2qt of concentrated orange coolant and 3.5qt of 50/50 coolant. Do you think it's enough concentration? We don't have lower than -16F temperatures in NYC. @FordTechMakuloco
Hi Brian! I really enjoy your videos. Even though I (thankfully) don't currently have any car repair projects, I feel like I'm a better mechanic for having studied your techniques. I have two F150s, so I'm sure I'll need your advice eventually. If I may comment on your video editing techniques, I'd like to suggest that you sign off personally, on camera, even if that was with a prerecord little snippet. Many of your videos start with you on camera describing the problem and setting the stage for the repair. That connects you to the viewers. I'm sure that signing off by saying something about the repair, thanking the viewers, and personally asking them to subscribe would work better for you than just rolling text at the end. Your most recent videos just sort of ended without flair. Just boom--end of video. You deserve better than that. You could at least prerecord several different endings when you have a free day, then just tack a random one onto each video. I'll pulling for you!
I know I am just trying to streamline my videos to not have so much yacking and get down to the repair and I feel after the repair is done many people just turn off the video and never watch the outros. On videos where they are more complicated like upcoming ones I do have an outro to explain a little more about what we just did, so they will vary.
Keeping to the point and ending after the point is what I prefer. Alot of filler isn't needed at beginning or end. Thanks for the good videos
Won't this method put hard tap water in your cooling system. I was always told to use distilled water to avoid minerals in the coolant that could damage the turbos and water pump seals
You’re correct. Says right on the motor craft coolant bottle to mix with distilled water.
I use RO water.
Have question similiar to one asked before but was not answered. Followed video procedure to change coolant today on 2006 F150 5.4 liter with coolant capacity 20.9 quarts. Removed cap on coolant bottle on cold engine and drained coolant thru hose attached to drain plug to get it all. Removed draincock at end. Only got about 6 quarts measured in 2 gallon milk bottles then stopped draining. Added radiator flush to coolant bottle then added water and as expected it only took the same amount of about 6 qts to fill it. Ran engine and drove with heater on high for about 20 minutes to clean coolant system. Allowed to cool some then drained again and again only got about 6-7 qts. Flushed with hose and drained with stopcock out at idle, as directed for several minutes till water coming out was clear. Refilled with water and drove again with heater on high for about 10 minutes. Allowed to cool some and drained again with draincock out. Only got 6-7 qts out again. Flushed at idle for a few minutes with hose, draincock out and engine running to get foam out of bottle til water coming out of stopcock was very clear. Filled with distilled water. Drove a bit then drained 1 more time with cover off of coolant bottle and only got 6-7 qts out. Added new full strength antifreeze and it only took 6-7 qts. All the time I was driving had lots of heat with heater on high and temp guage reading normal regular temp right in the middle. So if I had plain water in the system then and only could add 6-7 qts of full strength antifreeze, how do I achieve a 50/50 mix when there is 6-7 qts of antifreeze and about 14 qts of water in the coolant system?
Thank you, this video was very helpful, worked out great!