The hardest part of finding these was figuring out what they are called! I guess disk thermostats was the best name. I did call Life Smart and was proudly told the model I have is discontinued, good thing I got it free. thanks
When you test that it's an open or closed thermostat disk with the continuity setting on the meter. When you wiggle it with the probes and the resistance changes did indicate a possible problem,so you got lucky.
As long as my probe contact points are a good solid connection, there should be no change to continuity while shaking the thermostat. Very aggressive shaking, like banging the thermostat on an object could cause continuity to change. Lightly shaking the thermostat should see no change in continuity.
I've got a comfort zone that shuts down after just a few minutes. I checked the part shown in the video on my CZ2011 and it is rated 16 amps 125v, so I found some on Ebay that match. It took some searching. " 150 °C KSD301 NC Manual Reset Bimetal disc thermostat 16A 125VAC " The heater worked fine for about a month of use, and then began to shut down. I hope this part will be the fix. I read somewhere on amazon that the switch that is installed is a 120C and it should be a 150C. That makes sense, because heaters of this kind should be heating around 300 F on high. By the way, this heater is a monster to work on. I also found a long bulb up front just under the vent that appears to not be working? It doesn't get red.
Hi Extrapilator, I would think all the infrared heating rods would glow when the heater is set on high and the temperature setting is also set high. If that is the case, you may have one that is not working.
I agree, but I wonder if this element being so much longer than the others, doesn't get any more power than the smaller ones, consequently, it doesn't have enough power to "glow". This heater is a replica of the Eden pure, and the design on the inside is just like the one in your video, which was very helpful. I had it working again for a week just fine, but today, it has started shutting off again. I think the switch is shorting...
Hi Extrapilator, I would agree that there will be a little more resistance on the longer heating element but I suspect the resistance would be pretty small and you would need a special resistance meter to measure that small difference. An electric stove has heating elements of different lengths and they all glow. Unless the manufacturer is using a different material for the longer heating element, than it may glow differently from the other heating elements.
Howwedidit500, My part arrived from China, and it is marked "CQC", not "URC US" like the original part unfortunately. On one terminal of the original part, it had turned black from overheating or arching I guess... The part must have been faulty, or rated too low at 120C, which is engraved on one of it's terminals. (I missed this originally, since I didn't pull the leads when I examined it) I installed the new part "KSD301 16A 125 V 150C that I linked to above. The heater runs great, and heats nice and hot without kicking off. I'll update again if I have anymore issues. I still can't tell if the long element is red, but if you feel the outside of the heater in front of it's location, it is warm. I have an infrared laser thermometer on the way, and I am going to test this Comfortzone infrared against a Lifesmart 6 Element large room Infrared heater, and I'll update when I find which one actually heats at the highest temp. It is sad though that a $3 part can make a $200 heater worthless in 2 months.
Hi Extrapilator, I believe the CQC marking on the KSD301 part stands for "China Quality Certification Center " . Since this is a safety thermal switch, the CQC marking may not meet the same safety requirements as the original part. The KSD301 part that I used also had the CQC markings. I did heat the part up with a heat gun and verified that it worked before I put the KSD301, with the CQC marking, in the heater. I agree how a $3.00 part puts a lot of these heaters in the land fill:(
I have a life smart that is running for a little bit it beeps and shuts off and you can start it right back up it will run for 3 to 5 min. and will beep and shut down again figured it was something like this figured it would be some kind of circuit in a circuit board and not just a simple thermostat will have to tear mine apart and get the numbers off it and look on ebay for one thanks for the video.
Michael Morris Thanks for watching and hopefully you can find a better KSD301 part match than I did. I am not comfortable with the thermostat KSD301 part (safety switch) I found and only use the heater during the day when I am present.
got my thermostat out but cant seem to find one anyplace I have tried calling life smart that is a real pain sent an email to them waiting to hear from them to see if I can buy the part from them or not,mine was located in the very front of the heater I have it is a different model then you have will see what I find out from life smart I just wonder if this sensor doubles as temp and the bump trigger also thats why it rattles.
Michael Morris yeah it's a pain calling them took me 2 days to actually get someone lol but they do have the parts as long as the model is not discontinued. persistance is key call them everyday till you get lucky like i did lol
I have a cheaper model (no wood) that is way easier to take apart. I had the same problem as you. The thermostat read 60 deg C. I was able to buy an assortment of these from Electronic Salon on Ebay for $9.99 free shipping. They are not quite the same, I had to put a little epoxy on the mounting part to hold the middle sensor steady.
OK. well, I fixed my unit by jumping the thermostat wires while waiting for a part from EBAY. Unfortunatly I shorted the entire unit out AT THE JUMP as it accidently touched the metal casing. QUESTION: by shorting the entire unit out at the jump where the thermostat is - now the unit will not power on past the main power switch (no beep) (no display) - what part of the unit will be affected by this. is the mother board destroyed or should i just replace something else as well. thanks.
Thanks again for the video and for starting me in the right direction. After Shorting out the entire unit while trying to jump the faulty thermostat. I seem to have destroyed the heater switch/tilt switch relay (black switch with ball on top)that is connected to the main power and the thermostat. While I am waiting for the parts from ebay i have simply bypassed the thermostat plus the switch/tilt switch relay (black switch with ball on top) and it is working fine. so with that said it is quite possible to bypass it all and plug the main power directly into the motherboard bypassing the safety switch and thermostat. Super unsafe. but possible. I am waiting for the parts from ebay and will replace.
I have a similar infrared unit made by Westpointe. The problem I am having is that I have not been able to locate the switch part to properly get it to work. The part number is KSD301A-A 120V 16A 110 degrees C. Can you advise me as to where to purchase the part?
I am having the same problem with the exact same heater that you have in the video. Is it anything in particular I should be looking for besides the part number when I order this on eBay, I have KSD301 16/125- 120...do I need a model# ...etc when searching for this part?
Miss Dana Thanks for watching, I was not able to find a good "KSD301" part match. Since this is a safety switch thermostat, it should meet some level of safety certifications. That is probably why the heater manufacture does not recommend repairing these heaters. The fix that I did demonstrated the KSD301 thermostat was the faulty component but there is a safety risk since the EBay KSD301 part I used may not meet the same safety requirements as the original part. I only use the repaired heater when I am present.
Hello you can get replacement limit switches through lifesmart 18664842066 as long as that model is not on the discontinued list they can sell you replacement parts no need to look for a match elsewhere
These parts come in several configurations. The replacement part should be one that is normally closed, and the correct temperature to open once it reaches a certain temperature, which is stamped on the part. Mine is stamped 60 which is temp in celsius.which is 140F. Make sure you get NC, not NO, and correct temp.
I found the part on Ebay, but am unsure if the 60 stamped on the part is the operating temp to order, My unit is identical to yours. What temp thermostat did you order?
Hi Ken, Just be aware there is risk using EBay parts for safety thermostat switches. They may not meet the same safety requirements as the original part. Morgan Ali commented "Hello you can get replacement limit switches through lifesmart 18664842066 as long as that model is not on the discontinued list they can sell you replacement parts no need to look for a match elsewhere" This is probably the best option with the lowest safety risk. Note: Wood (dry) has a combustion temperature around 450 F or 232 C. If you understand the risk and still like to try an EBay thermostat switch, search "10pcs KSD301 Bimetal disc thermostat 120°C NC Temperature Switch Solid Collar" $10.99 US and free ePacket from China. The picture shows the parts stamped with 65 which is incorrect for the EBay description. Solid collar, NC for normally closed and 120 for 120 C is important in the label. The EBay KSD301 part that I found had a floating collar that required me to do an additional mechanical modification to the heater before I could use it. The EBay KSD301 thermostat I used is described in the description update above.
HowWeDidIt500 The part I ordered is coming from Hong Kong. I would bet you a dime to a dollar the original came from a China factory. I will test before installing. I got 5 shipped for 3.99 It is a shame to let a $1.00 part stop a good heater from doing its job.
Found out the hard way, the temp on my part is 120C, not the 60 number stamped on the bottom of the part. So, I have the correct part coming. Again, the manufacturer let a $2 part stop a new unit, 1 month old, from doing its job.
Hi Ken, I was thinking 60 C would be on the lower temperature side but I suspect the manufacture has a range of temperatures they can use for the thermostat.
Hi Donald, Thanks for watching. I was able to get a KSD301 part on EBay (China) and the heater is now working great. Such a simple part almost caused a ~$150 heater to go in a recycled/landfill. I had problems finding an exact KSD301 part on EBay. The KSD301 part that I was trying to replace had a symbol that looked like a UL (Underwriters Laboratory) approval symbol on it. Most of the EBay KSD301 parts had a CQC symbol which I believe stands for China Quality Certification. I was not able to find a symbol or identification who is the actual Chinese manufacture on the part. Also the KSD301 part that I purchased on EBay was 250 V, 10A, 120 C. I found some Chinese specifications for a KSD301 which were specified to work at 250V, 10A and also 125V, 16A. BTW, I also needed a NC (Normally Closed) KSD301 part. Another issue with the EBay KSD301 part was the circular thermostat sensor floated up and down in the mechanical attachment ring (the 2 screw hole ring). The EBay KSD301 required me to attach the thermostat flush against the metal surface. I put a thin metal plate over the thermostat hole on the heater box and then mounted the KSD301 EBay sensor to this plate. I drilled 2 holes in this metal plate which aligned with the existing thermostat screw holes. I did verify the EBay KSD301 part with an Ohm meter, a hair dryer and an oven thermometer. Since this is a safety switch, it is nice to know that the EBay Chinese part actually works. I was not totally comfortable with the KSD301 part I found on EBay but maybe someone can comment on a better KSD301 part to use.
Hey Donald, I have this problem with a unit identical to yours. Did you get the KSD301 normally closed, or normallly open, I believe I need normally closed. Can you help?
Hi Howwedidit500 I just bought the same model at a garage sale for $10.00 yesterday but never got a remote with it. I can power it up from the front and set all parameters with no problem. I shut it down and the fan still was running for about a minute or so. I left it off overnight and when I checked this morning it still had all power off according to the front panel but it was still generating a small amount of heat. Any ideas why this would be happening? Thanks elvisap@sympatico.ca
Darrell Smith Hi Darrell, You are correct in that you do not need a remote to run the heater. I do not know why it is generating heat if the front panel says it should be off.
The hardest part of finding these was figuring out what they are called! I guess disk thermostats was the best name. I did call Life Smart and was proudly told the model I have is discontinued, good thing I got it free. thanks
Hi Grant,
I am glad you are able to repair your heater.
Thanks to this my heater is working properly again! Well so far so good, just did the repair today.
Hi robx46,
I am glad it worked for you:)
When you test that it's an open or closed thermostat disk with the continuity setting on the meter. When you wiggle it with the probes and the resistance changes did indicate a possible problem,so you got lucky.
As long as my probe contact points are a good solid connection, there should be no change to continuity while shaking the thermostat. Very aggressive shaking, like banging the thermostat on an object could cause continuity to change. Lightly shaking the thermostat should see no change in continuity.
I've got a comfort zone that shuts down after just a few minutes. I checked the part shown in the video on my CZ2011 and it is rated 16 amps 125v, so I found some on Ebay that match. It took some searching. " 150 °C KSD301 NC Manual Reset Bimetal disc thermostat 16A 125VAC "
The heater worked fine for about a month of use, and then began to shut down. I hope this part will be the fix. I read somewhere on amazon that the switch that is installed is a 120C and it should be a 150C. That makes sense, because heaters of this kind should be heating around 300 F on high. By the way, this heater is a monster to work on. I also found a long bulb up front just under the vent that appears to not be working? It doesn't get red.
Hi Extrapilator,
I would think all the infrared heating rods would glow when the heater is set on high and the temperature setting is also set high. If that is the case, you may have one that is not working.
I agree, but I wonder if this element being so much longer than the others, doesn't get any more power than the smaller ones, consequently, it doesn't have enough power to "glow". This heater is a replica of the Eden pure, and the design on the inside is just like the one in your video, which was very helpful. I had it working again for a week just fine, but today, it has started shutting off again. I think the switch is shorting...
Hi Extrapilator,
I would agree that there will be a little more resistance on the longer heating element but I suspect the resistance would be pretty small and you would need a special resistance meter to measure that small difference. An electric stove has heating elements of different lengths and they all glow. Unless the manufacturer is using a different material for the longer heating element, than it may glow differently from the other heating elements.
Howwedidit500,
My part arrived from China, and it is marked "CQC", not "URC US" like the original part unfortunately. On one terminal of the original part, it had turned black from overheating or arching I guess... The part must have been faulty, or rated too low at 120C, which is engraved on one of it's terminals. (I missed this originally, since I didn't pull the leads when I examined it) I installed the new part "KSD301 16A 125 V 150C that I linked to above. The heater runs great, and heats nice and hot without kicking off. I'll update again if I have anymore issues. I still can't tell if the long element is red, but if you feel the outside of the heater in front of it's location, it is warm. I have an infrared laser thermometer on the way, and I am going to test this Comfortzone infrared against a Lifesmart 6 Element large room Infrared heater, and I'll update when I find which one actually heats at the highest temp. It is sad though that a $3 part can make a $200 heater worthless in 2 months.
Hi Extrapilator,
I believe the CQC marking on the KSD301 part stands for "China Quality Certification Center " . Since this is a safety thermal switch, the CQC marking may not meet the same safety requirements as the original part. The KSD301 part that I used also had the CQC markings. I did heat the part up with a heat gun and verified that it worked before I put the KSD301, with the CQC marking, in the heater. I agree how a $3.00 part puts a lot of these heaters in the land fill:(
I have a life smart that is running for a little bit it beeps and shuts off and you can start it right back up it will run for 3 to 5 min. and will beep and shut down again figured it was something like this figured it would be some kind of circuit in a circuit board and not just a simple thermostat will have to tear mine apart and get the numbers off it and look on ebay for one thanks for the video.
Michael Morris Thanks for watching and hopefully you can find a better KSD301 part match than I did. I am not comfortable with the thermostat KSD301 part (safety switch) I found and only use the heater during the day when I am present.
got my thermostat out but cant seem to find one anyplace I have tried calling life smart that is a real pain sent an email to them waiting to hear from them to see if I can buy the part from them or not,mine was located in the very front of the heater I have it is a different model then you have will see what I find out from life smart I just wonder if this sensor doubles as temp and the bump trigger also thats why it rattles.
Michael Morris yeah it's a pain calling them took me 2 days to actually get someone lol but they do have the parts as long as the model is not discontinued. persistance is key call them everyday till you get lucky like i did lol
Morgan ali That sounds great. Thanks Morgan for letting me know:)
I have a cheaper model (no wood) that is way easier to take apart. I had the same problem as you. The thermostat read 60 deg C. I was able to buy an assortment of these from Electronic Salon on Ebay for $9.99 free shipping. They are not quite the same, I had to put a little epoxy on the mounting part to hold the middle sensor steady.
thank you for this information!
Thanks a lot, very much appreciated!
OK. well, I fixed my unit by jumping the thermostat wires while waiting for a part from EBAY.
Unfortunatly I shorted the entire unit out AT THE JUMP as it accidently touched the metal casing.
QUESTION: by shorting the entire unit out at the jump where the thermostat is - now the unit will not power on past the main power switch (no beep) (no display) - what part of the unit will be affected by this. is the mother board destroyed or should i just replace something else as well. thanks.
Thanks again for the video and for starting me in the right direction. After Shorting out the entire unit while trying to jump the faulty thermostat. I seem to have destroyed the heater switch/tilt switch relay (black switch with ball on top)that is connected to the main power and the thermostat. While I am waiting for the parts from ebay i have simply bypassed the thermostat plus the switch/tilt switch relay (black switch with ball on top) and it is working fine. so with that said it is quite possible to bypass it all and plug the main power directly into the motherboard bypassing the safety switch and thermostat. Super unsafe. but possible. I am waiting for the parts from ebay and will replace.
I have a similar infrared unit made by Westpointe. The problem I am having is that I have not been able to locate the switch part to properly get it to work. The part number is KSD301A-A 120V 16A 110 degrees C. Can you advise me as to where to purchase the part?
I am having the same problem with the exact same heater that you have in the video. Is it anything in particular I should be looking for besides the part number when I order this on eBay, I have KSD301 16/125- 120...do I need a model# ...etc when searching for this part?
Miss Dana Thanks for watching, I was not able to find a good "KSD301" part match. Since this is a safety switch thermostat, it should meet some level of safety certifications. That is probably why the heater manufacture does not recommend repairing these heaters.
The fix that I did demonstrated the KSD301 thermostat was the faulty component but there is a safety risk since the EBay KSD301 part I used may not meet the same safety requirements as the original part. I only use the repaired heater when I am present.
Hello you can get replacement limit switches through lifesmart 18664842066 as long as that model is not on the discontinued list they can sell you replacement parts no need to look for a match elsewhere
These parts come in several configurations. The replacement part should be one that is normally closed, and the correct temperature to open once it reaches a certain temperature, which is stamped on the part. Mine is stamped 60 which is temp in celsius.which is 140F. Make sure you get NC, not NO, and correct temp.
I found the part on Ebay, but am unsure if the 60 stamped on the part is the operating temp to order, My unit is identical to yours. What temp thermostat did you order?
Hi Ken, Just be aware there is risk using EBay parts for safety thermostat switches. They may not meet the same safety requirements as the original part. Morgan Ali commented "Hello you can get replacement limit switches through lifesmart 18664842066 as long as that model is not on the discontinued list they can sell you replacement parts no need to look for a match elsewhere" This is probably the best option with the lowest safety risk.
Note: Wood (dry) has a combustion temperature around 450 F or 232 C. If you understand the risk and still like to try an EBay thermostat switch, search "10pcs KSD301 Bimetal disc thermostat 120°C NC Temperature Switch Solid Collar" $10.99 US and free ePacket from China. The picture shows the parts stamped with 65 which is incorrect for the EBay description. Solid collar, NC for normally closed and 120 for 120 C is important in the label. The EBay KSD301 part that I found had a floating collar that required me to do an additional mechanical modification to the heater before I could use it.
The EBay KSD301 thermostat I used is described in the description update above.
HowWeDidIt500
The part I ordered is coming from Hong Kong. I would bet you a dime to a dollar the original came from a China factory. I will test before installing. I got 5 shipped for 3.99 It is a shame to let a $1.00 part stop a good heater from doing its job.
Ken N Hi Ken, I agree, if you have a 60 stamped on your original part to stay with a KSD301 part with temperature of 60 C.
Found out the hard way, the temp on my part is 120C, not the 60 number stamped on the bottom of the part.
So, I have the correct part coming. Again, the manufacturer let a $2 part stop a new unit, 1 month old, from doing its job.
Hi Ken, I was thinking 60 C would be on the lower temperature side but I suspect the manufacture has a range of temperatures they can use for the thermostat.
who do I contact for help w/a comfortzone 1500p heater w/ acode of ao4
Well, what was the outcome? Good video btw.
Hi Donald,
Thanks for watching. I was able to get a KSD301 part on EBay (China) and the heater is now working great. Such a simple part almost caused a ~$150 heater to go in a recycled/landfill.
I had problems finding an exact KSD301 part on EBay. The KSD301 part that I was trying to replace had a symbol that looked like a UL (Underwriters Laboratory) approval symbol on it. Most of the EBay KSD301 parts had a CQC symbol which I believe stands for China Quality Certification. I was not able to find a symbol or identification who is the actual Chinese manufacture on the part. Also the KSD301 part that I purchased on EBay was 250 V, 10A, 120 C. I found some Chinese specifications for a KSD301 which were specified to work at 250V, 10A and also 125V, 16A. BTW, I also needed a NC (Normally Closed) KSD301 part. Another issue with the EBay KSD301 part was the circular thermostat sensor floated up and down in the mechanical attachment ring (the 2 screw hole ring). The EBay KSD301 required me to attach the thermostat flush against the metal surface. I put a thin metal plate over the thermostat hole on the heater box and then mounted the KSD301 EBay sensor to this plate. I drilled 2 holes in this metal plate which aligned with the existing thermostat screw holes.
I did verify the EBay KSD301 part with an Ohm meter, a hair dryer and an oven thermometer. Since this is a safety switch, it is nice to know that the EBay Chinese part actually works.
I was not totally comfortable with the KSD301 part I found on EBay but maybe someone can comment on a better KSD301 part to use.
Way to go!! Great video. Was looking at one of these heaters on CL the other day. That's what made me look at your video. Thanks for the info. Don
Hey Donald, I have this problem with a unit identical to yours. Did you get the KSD301 normally closed, or normallly open, I believe I need normally closed. Can you help?
Ken N Hi Ken, I am pretty sure it is likely a normally closed thermostat switch.
I was wondering did that replacement thermostat fix your infrared heater?
My heater wont come on. It displayes for a short minute a code ofao4. need help
can you help me fix err E 1 ,Thanks
+saigon buon
Sorry with that request. The heater unit I had did not have an E1 error so I have no experience with that request.
+saigon buon E1 in my book says one of 4 problems 1) overheated 2) insufficient power to unit 3) air filter clogged 4) insufficient air flow to heater
did part from china work?
Yes, the eBay china worked but read my description above. The china eBay part may not meet the same safety specifications as the original part.
thank you
Here's a link to the data sheet for the switch: www.ebmstore.it/ebay/download/KSD301.pdf
replace battery in remote
I own one,they suck huge and dont heat a 1000 square ft like they say. NOT a grat buy.
Hi Howwedidit500
I just bought the same model at a garage sale for $10.00 yesterday but never got a remote with it. I can power it up from the front and set all parameters with no problem. I shut it down and the fan still was running for about a minute or so. I left it off overnight and when I checked this morning it still had all power off according to the front panel but it was still generating a small amount of heat. Any ideas why this would be happening?
Thanks elvisap@sympatico.ca
Darrell Smith
Hi Darrell, You are correct in that you do not need a remote to run the heater. I do not know why it is generating heat if the front panel says it should be off.