Thank you, Piet, for your comment. So many of these old school techniques on these vintage pony cars is at risk of being lost to the ages. I am very pleased e have the means by which they can be saved, preserved, and kept active through the technologies we have at hand via various Internet related technologies. The Internet certainly changed everything, and I would argue everything has changed for the better overall.
Very interesting. Just because of how much torque most other bolts/ nuts require you'd think the wheel bearing adjusting nut would require more torque than hand tight. Thanks for this. I need to put on the rotors on my 68 and was looking for info. No school like the old school👍
Thank you for your comment. I am sincerely glad you saw this before dealing with your own wheel bearings. I had a school teacher long ago who taught auto repair. The guy was good. Real good. But he told his students that all Timken tapered bearings, like wheel bearing, require a pre-load and all the engineers were wrong. He told us to always tighten wheel bearings nuts to 40 lb/ft torque. I would do as instructed just to make certain his inspection showed I “did it right.” Bit as soon as he went off to another student I would loosen the retaining nuts as stipulated in the manuals. Not long after my first class with him a fellow student who tightened his retaining kids as directed by thAt teacher had a wheel bearing fail magnificently. Overheated. The teacher said it was due to inadequate lubrication. I know for a fact he had packed hi bearing properly because I was working on his car with him and we were both packing the bearings and looking for all the rollers to be well packed. Could it have been material failure? Side. It happened last year with our 73 Mach 1 where a wheel bearing seized. My fgirst thought was overtightened bearings. But it turns out I know the guy who had installed the rotors and bearings. He knew how to do it correctly. Professional technician. The lubrication had been adequate. It had to be the material. And from there this set of videos became into being.
@@gilberthale7777 well I'll be doing it the way you've shown us. I also noticed that when I took off the nut, it came off very easily, so whoever worked on my Mustang many years ago must have done it your way. I got my 68 back in 99 and haven't had the bearings replaced since I've owned it and it's been sitting for the last 13 years so now that I needed the rotors worked on I might as well change the hardware in there👍
@@CruisinComPTon yeah, 13+ years…. It is time to pack them using high quality wheel bearing grease sand new grease seals. With repacking I would pack them until the new grease began to come out of the various gaps, pushing the old grease out completely.
thank you for posting excellent
The compliment is appreciated.
`Great lesson Gilbert !! now its here for the youngsters to learn !! well doen thanks !!! greets from Holland Piet (pete)
Thank you, Piet, for your comment. So many of these old school techniques on these vintage pony cars is at risk of being lost to the ages. I am very pleased e have the means by which they can be saved, preserved, and kept active through the technologies we have at hand via various Internet related technologies. The Internet certainly changed everything, and I would argue everything has changed for the better overall.
hahah the HeeHee got me! thanks for the Advice !
I hope I "got you" in a good way...
Thank you for the video sir.
I am glad you found it helpful. Truly.
Very interesting. Just because of how much torque most other bolts/ nuts require you'd think the wheel bearing adjusting nut would require more torque than hand tight. Thanks for this. I need to put on the rotors on my 68 and was looking for info. No school like the old school👍
Thank you for your comment. I am sincerely glad you saw this before dealing with your own wheel bearings.
I had a school teacher long ago who taught auto repair. The guy was good. Real good. But he told his students that all Timken tapered bearings, like wheel bearing, require a pre-load and all the engineers were wrong. He told us to always tighten wheel bearings nuts to 40 lb/ft torque. I would do as instructed just to make certain his inspection showed I “did it right.” Bit as soon as he went off to another student I would loosen the retaining nuts as stipulated in the manuals.
Not long after my first class with him a fellow student who tightened his retaining kids as directed by thAt teacher had a wheel bearing fail magnificently. Overheated. The teacher said it was due to inadequate lubrication. I know for a fact he had packed hi bearing properly because I was working on his car with him and we were both packing the bearings and looking for all the rollers to be well packed.
Could it have been material failure? Side. It happened last year with our 73 Mach 1 where a wheel bearing seized. My fgirst thought was overtightened bearings. But it turns out I know the guy who had installed the rotors and bearings. He knew how to do it correctly. Professional technician. The lubrication had been adequate. It had to be the material. And from there this set of videos became into being.
@@gilberthale7777 well I'll be doing it the way you've shown us. I also noticed that when I took off the nut, it came off very easily, so whoever worked on my Mustang many years ago must have done it your way. I got my 68 back in 99 and haven't had the bearings replaced since I've owned it and it's been sitting for the last 13 years so now that I needed the rotors worked on I might as well change the hardware in there👍
@@CruisinComPTon yeah, 13+ years…. It is time to pack them using high quality wheel bearing grease sand new grease seals. With repacking I would pack them until the new grease began to come out of the various gaps, pushing the old grease out completely.