As a Spanner juggler from the 70/80s been there done that got the T-shirt, I don't think I could get back up if I tried that these days,, it really bugs me to have to pay someone to do something, I know how to do, especially when you see them making harder than it needs be, the wife keeps telling me to sort my tools to sell them, as I no longer use them, but some of my spanners are older than my daughters and in top notch condition, better than most of today's offerings Britool, KingDick, Bedford Vanadium, Stanley, Craftsman, Kasama, I never went silly and brought Snap-On, but didn't go bargain bin, either they're like old friends comfortable in your hands. Even the Arthritis knuckled remains of once skilled hands really enjoy these kinds of videos, modern cars are just plug in a new module or sensor, keep up the good work.
love these videos! Brings back fond memories of my late husband, watching him maintain our rigs, proud of his interest in repairs and maintenance vs. just buying new or hiring someone else to do things.. especially since a lot of so-called "experts" aren't that interested in doing a good job, or even actually know what they're doing! :D I know he got a lot of satisfaction from his DIY projects, as well as saving some $, and certainly had a better understanding and appreciation of the vehicles he owned and drove! :D Still remember the time he had to talk me through pulling the starter from an old pickup when it "died" in our small garage, and there wasn't any way to lift the truck to provide enough room for his thick chest to fit underneath! :D I ended up removing and re-installing it a couple of times, then installed the NEW one, when the new parts for the old starter weren't sufficient to cure the problem! :D Sure got faster and easier with CLEAN nuts/bolts etc. and practice! :D Whether dealing with clothing, household, building or vehicle, I always have great respect and admiration for those that at least TRY to learn/figure out and do as much of the maintenance and repair themselves as possible! :D Cheers!
Well Dave, you gotta have a pretty darn good video appeal when you get an old lady like me to watch a guy video!!!! Very cool how much you know in many areas! Great video, tell Brook hi for me! God bless!
We are restoring an old English layland Daf Convoy (ldv400), stripped the breaks and bearings today, this video was very informative thank you so much, sending love, peace and good energy from Wales 🏴❤️🙏🏻
I feel like I can really relate to you and Brook both. I am a single father with 4 kids so I do all I can to get by. Your channel has helped me tremendously. Thank you Dave! All my kids love you and Brook too! Wish you lived around WV.
You really helped us who are doing exactly what you did in the video...the part about not using the torque wrench helps...i don't have a socket big enough to use with a torque wrench...thanks again
Good video Dave, I like the way you explain what you are doing as you do it.I hope you and your wife are both doing good, But we need more video's from both of you guys. Thank you Frank from montana...
Took one look at those old discolored bearings and thought, "Those are gonna make some noise if he reuses them". Turns out I was right unfortunately. At least you know you've got another video coming, "How to replace front wheel bearings". Thanks for the new video, it's been a while. Oh, look! Brooke has a new one too.
Cleaning and repacking wheel bearings is a lost art... So many mechanics figure, they already have them out so instead they just replace them. The only wheel bearings I recall cleaning and repacking in the last decades were on my 5th wheel trailer... Fun video, thank you for sharing...👍
Worst comment from your doctor, "Going to use one last rubber glove!" 🤪 All new vehicles now have sealed bearings so I just replaced the whole rear bolt on hub on my car. Another good video, look forward to the replacement bearing video. 👍 I get my replacement parts from RockAuto which ships to Canada and sells the exact same parts for less than half of what I can get them for here. Arrives in 2 days with FedEx from any of their 4 warehouses across the USA.
Agreed on RockAuto from another Canadian. For smaller parts they're cheaper than any local outlets even with shipping factored in. Bigger parts, even headlights, the shipping gets expensive quick. Inner and outer SKF bearings without races are a bit over $6.00 US from RockAuto so it isn't going to break the bank when he redoes it. Worst comment from a doctor, "These gloves were free with my toilet brush!" 🤪
This is one of the only videos that does the preload on the bearings correctly. By having a slight preload more rollers are sharing the load. ANY end play concentrates the load on fewer rollers. GOOD VIDEO HERE !!!!!!
I use a 60 cc syringe that I pack with grease for packing the bearing. On smaller bearing you might need to squeeze the nipple on the syringe . It works great it will also push out any old greas you might have missed. Great video!
I think the next item on my Harbor Freight shopping list will one of those low profile jacks. It sure makes the job look easier. Thanks Dave, I'm always trying to keep my junk on the road, and you're a big help.
After removing the outer bearing put the nut back on the spindle and pull the rotor over the nut, with a tug the inner bearing and will catch the nut and bearing and seal will come off at the same time. I have never damaged a seal or bearing using this method. It’s always best to replace the seal, but sometimes you don’t have one on hand. Give it a try. Great videos
I guess before you go through the trouble of doing this just keep a temperature sensor in your truck and measure the temperature of your wheels after a drive. But it is awesome that you showed how to do it. May need to do this someday.
I have found that to remove the rear seal, put the washer and nut back on. Pull the hub off by hitting against the the washer and nut. It should drive out the seal and rear bearing. That way it will keep the seal in reusable condition.
Great video! I definitely would have replaced that bearing though. If I already had it all apart and cleaned, using a new bearing will keep me from having to do it all over again in 6 months. A bearing isn’t THAT expensive.
I'll know just what to do, what equipment to have and how to use them should I ever do this process to my Club Wagon :) Thanks, Dave! See you down the road ... God Bless
A lot of mechanics say that too much grease is the cause of premature failure as heat is not dispersing as it should - especially packing it to the cap would prevent it from working as an efficient radiator, but I'm not so sure if they're right, and when You've been applying the grease it's worth of keep rolling so the grease from the outside can enter and lube it inside all trough before working under load. One way to make sure it's all lubricated is applying it from the narrower side until it comes off from the thicker - during fast driving radial forces push it out that way - that's why the seal is there. The seal is always on the thicker side.
Great video Dave, thank you for sharing this. I am in the same space as you in so much as I don't really want to replace my wheel bearings but I do need to fit a new rear grease seal on my Triumph Vitesse Restomod, so for now I will clean and repack all of my wheel bearings and get the car finished. It is not a big deal to fit new bearings if any of them are past their best. Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes 🇬🇧
Thanks for the video... is that last bit on using something like a parts cleaner (after mineral spirits) something like carburetor cleaner? I use laquer thinner when I overhaul the 67 Schwinn Cycletruck's hubs to remove the oils left behind after the spirits. Now I have Catholic guilt having not rebuilt it in 20 years. It's just to hot to go outdoors here in Miami. Bless
Looks like he used brake cleaner which removes contaminants, grease, and water, and dries very quickly. Some people use the brake cleaner before silicone sealing pans or covers to insure a clean surface for bonding. Lacquer thinner may affect some brake pad material as well as being flammable if not given proper time to evaporate but sometimes you just have to use what you got.
@@kevola5739 Thanks for the response. Dad was a luthier, and there was always lacquer, and thinner out in the shed. And, in college a friend who was a VW guy told me to do final cleaning with either lacquer thinner, or acetone. Of course, this is 30 years ago..... Any hows.... knowing what tool to use, or product is the real deal. Bless
Great Video. I always inspect every thing I can see when doing that, like brake pads. Also HAYNES MANUALS on youtube has allot of helpful videos, but they want to sell things. Bill, Big Bay.
Yup. Thats not "totally" bad. I changed the front wheels bearings in my ford escort a few years ago and they went bad around 270k. Thats not bad for an original part
As a Spanner juggler from the 70/80s been there done that got the T-shirt, I don't think I could get back up if I tried that these days,, it really bugs me to have to pay someone to do something, I know how to do, especially when you see them making harder than it needs be, the wife keeps telling me to sort my tools to sell them, as I no longer use them, but some of my spanners are older than my daughters and in top notch condition, better than most of today's offerings Britool, KingDick, Bedford Vanadium, Stanley, Craftsman, Kasama, I never went silly and brought Snap-On, but didn't go bargain bin, either they're like old friends comfortable in your hands. Even the Arthritis knuckled remains of once skilled hands really enjoy these kinds of videos, modern cars are just plug in a new module or sensor, keep up the good work.
Thanks HJ!
I hate arthritis, it really messes with my tinkering...
Knowledge is 3/4, doing is the rest. Maybe find some young people that want to learn, you have the tools
Back when it didn't cost a small fortune to change wheel bearings. And things were serviceable. Good to see your still at it brother!
Thanks
Yep now it’s a new 200.00 hub or you can press out and replace the over price ball brging
love these videos! Brings back fond memories of my late husband, watching him maintain our rigs, proud of his interest in repairs and maintenance vs. just buying new or hiring someone else to do things.. especially since a lot of so-called "experts" aren't that interested in doing a good job, or even actually know what they're doing! :D I know he got a lot of satisfaction from his DIY projects, as well as saving some $, and certainly had a better understanding and appreciation of the vehicles he owned and drove! :D Still remember the time he had to talk me through pulling the starter from an old pickup when it "died" in our small garage, and there wasn't any way to lift the truck to provide enough room for his thick chest to fit underneath! :D I ended up removing and re-installing it a couple of times, then installed the NEW one, when the new parts for the old starter weren't sufficient to cure the problem! :D Sure got faster and easier with CLEAN nuts/bolts etc. and practice! :D Whether dealing with clothing, household, building or vehicle, I always have great respect and admiration for those that at least TRY to learn/figure out and do as much of the maintenance and repair themselves as possible! :D Cheers!
Thanks. I agree
Well Dave, you gotta have a pretty darn good video appeal when you get an old lady like me to watch a guy video!!!! Very cool how much you know in many areas! Great video, tell Brook hi for me! God bless!
Thanks, will do
We are restoring an old English layland Daf Convoy (ldv400), stripped the breaks and bearings today, this video was very informative thank you so much, sending love, peace and good energy from Wales 🏴❤️🙏🏻
Found this channel because you mentioned it on your livestream the other night. Not sure how I missed it but I am really enjoying it! Thanks!
I feel like I can really relate to you and Brook both. I am a single father with 4 kids so I do all I can to get by. Your channel has helped me tremendously. Thank you Dave! All my kids love you and Brook too! Wish you lived around WV.
Thanks Dustin. We appreciate that. Tell the kids we said HI!
Glad you’re teaching the new mechanic how to fix them and how to adjust them and why slack is a must
Good video, Dave. Good to see you again.
Thanks!
You really helped us who are doing exactly what you did in the video...the part about not using the torque wrench helps...i don't have a socket big enough to use with a torque wrench...thanks again
I am Paul Whipple it’s awesome that there’s other handy Whipple’s out there helping the rest of us with little questions we might have thank you Dave
Right on !
Another fine Dave Whipple Production. Full view, comment and shared
Thanks Robert
Good video Dave, I like the way you explain what you are doing as you do it.I hope you and your wife are both doing good, But we need more video's from both of you guys. Thank you Frank from montana...
Thanks Frank
Took one look at those old discolored bearings and thought, "Those are gonna make some noise if he reuses them". Turns out I was right unfortunately. At least you know you've got another video coming, "How to replace front wheel bearings". Thanks for the new video, it's been a while. Oh, look! Brooke has a new one too.
yup...I should have changed them, but thats not where I was headed
Good video on working on old cars and trucks.
Thanks 👍
That brought back memories. I had mechanic friends back in the late 70's show me how to pack wheel bearings and brake jobs. Loved this. Thanks Dave
Thanks
..good one, great info. necessary maintenance is a must...have a good week and keep safe...
Thanks, you too!
Cleaning and repacking wheel bearings is a lost art... So many mechanics figure, they already have them out so instead they just replace them.
The only wheel bearings I recall cleaning and repacking in the last decades were on my 5th wheel trailer...
Fun video, thank you for sharing...👍
thanks
Worst comment from your doctor, "Going to use one last rubber glove!" 🤪 All new vehicles now have sealed bearings so I just replaced the whole rear bolt on hub on my car. Another good video, look forward to the replacement bearing video. 👍 I get my replacement parts from RockAuto which ships to Canada and sells the exact same parts for less than half of what I can get them for here. Arrives in 2 days with FedEx from any of their 4 warehouses across the USA.
Agreed on RockAuto from another Canadian. For smaller parts they're cheaper than any local outlets even with shipping factored in. Bigger parts, even headlights, the shipping gets expensive quick.
Inner and outer SKF bearings without races are a bit over $6.00 US from RockAuto so it isn't going to break the bank when he redoes it.
Worst comment from a doctor, "These gloves were free with my toilet brush!" 🤪
LOL, gotta love Rock Auto
This is one of the only videos that does the preload on the bearings correctly. By having a slight preload more rollers are sharing the load. ANY end play concentrates the load on fewer rollers. GOOD VIDEO HERE !!!!!!
Thanks!
Hello Dave. Have a safe blessed night! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
You too
Just did this to the 1948 Travel Trailer I've been working on. Did everything exactly the way you do.
Right on!
Well done job. Those bearings do need to be replaced. 👍🏻
Yes they do
I use a 60 cc syringe that I pack with grease for packing the bearing. On smaller bearing you might need to squeeze the nipple on the syringe . It works great it will also push out any old greas you might have missed. Great video!
Great video. Everybody should know how to pack wheel bearings!
Right
Good tip on packing grease in the dust cap, Dave.
Thanks 👍
I think the next item on my Harbor Freight shopping list will one of those low profile jacks. It sure makes the job look easier. Thanks Dave, I'm always trying to keep my junk on the road, and you're a big help.
Thanks
After removing the outer bearing put the nut back on the spindle and pull the rotor over the nut, with a tug the inner bearing and will catch the nut and bearing and seal will come off at the same time. I have never damaged a seal or bearing using this method. It’s always best to replace the seal, but sometimes you don’t have one on hand. Give it a try.
Great videos
Thats an awesome tip! Thanks
Dave welcome back. Missed your cool videos.
Hey, thanks!
Wished I had this video back when I had to do this to a Oldsmobile, I used a Chilton manual. 😎
Good ol' Chilton's!
Right on!
Just Love this channel ! Keep the videos coming. Pretty soon your vehicles will all be new.
I know...lol
Thanks Dave, good to see you
Thanks
Do what you can when you can, period! Take care.
Thanks
Video seems more rushed than normal for Dave, must have too many things going on.
Nonetheless very glad to see a new video always.
Be Blessed
I thought it was long for the job
Man those bearings were more dried out than a popcorn fart! Great to have a new video from you! Been missing them! Hope all is well!
Thanks Ryan
Excellent details Dave !
thanks
I guess before you go through the trouble of doing this just keep a temperature sensor in your truck and measure the temperature of your wheels after a drive.
But it is awesome that you showed how to do it. May need to do this someday.
These need to be replaced.....but I'll shoot that video at another time this was just to show how to clean and re-pack them.
I have found that to remove the rear seal, put the washer and nut back on. Pull the hub off by hitting against the the washer and nut. It should drive out the seal and rear bearing. That way it will keep the seal in reusable condition.
Great video! I definitely would have replaced that bearing though. If I already had it all apart and cleaned, using a new bearing will keep me from having to do it all over again in 6 months. A bearing isn’t THAT expensive.
So informative, I love your videos...stay rad
Thank you! Will do!
Dave, awesome 😎 video, as always. Thank you for sharing your wealth of information and knowledge with us.
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video 😊
I bet Brooke is gonna be mad when she sees what you did to her toothbrush! Lol
Thanks for another great video.
Take care
LOL
I'll know just what to do, what equipment to have and how to use them should I ever do this process to my Club Wagon :) Thanks, Dave! See you down the road ... God Bless
Thanks Dave
Thanks for all the great tips & advice. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Any time!
A lot of mechanics say that too much grease is the cause of premature failure as heat is not dispersing as it should - especially packing it to the cap would prevent it from working as an efficient radiator, but I'm not so sure if they're right, and when You've been applying the grease it's worth of keep rolling so the grease from the outside can enter and lube it inside all trough before working under load. One way to make sure it's all lubricated is applying it from the narrower side until it comes off from the thicker - during fast driving radial forces push it out that way - that's why the seal is there. The seal is always on the thicker side.
Good video. You can also use a block of wood to put in seal.
Great video. Will work for boat trailers also. God Bless and stay safe.
Yup! You too
Thanks for the great tutorial!
Thanks
Nice video. Do you put the race in and then the inner bearing?
The Man! Great Video Horse.
Thanks Johnny!
@@cheapwheels9828 Yes sir
The center nut in hub is supposed to be super tight. It’s supposed to be torqued to around 150 foot pounds
Great video Dave, thank you for sharing this. I am in the same space as you in so much as I don't really want to replace my wheel bearings but I do need to fit a new rear grease seal on my Triumph Vitesse Restomod, so for now I will clean and repack all of my wheel bearings and get the car finished. It is not a big deal to fit new bearings if any of them are past their best. Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes 🇬🇧
Best of luck!
Good luck on your channel too!
@@cheapwheels9828 Thank you. You too 👍
Good stuff, Dave
thanks
I like your videos. Thank's 👍
thanks
Did you pack the Hub with grease
yes
Good video bud! 🤙
Dave you had so much grease on the spindle that I was worried that on assembly the grease seal would push grease past the seal.
Put your spindle nut back on, then pull downward. It will remove inner bearing and seal.
Yep works great for 60 years plus
Memories memories memories.
yup
GREAT VIDEO !!
Thanks
Outstanding!
Thank you kindly!
Can you do a video on how to rebuild a caliper?
maybe
Love this!
Thanks
Thanks for the video... is that last bit on using something like a parts cleaner (after mineral spirits) something like carburetor cleaner? I use laquer thinner when I overhaul the 67 Schwinn Cycletruck's hubs to remove the oils left behind after the spirits. Now I have Catholic guilt having not rebuilt it in 20 years. It's just to hot to go outdoors here in Miami. Bless
Looks like he used brake cleaner which removes contaminants, grease, and water, and dries very quickly. Some people use the brake cleaner before silicone sealing pans or covers to insure a clean surface for bonding. Lacquer thinner may affect some brake pad material as well as being flammable if not given proper time to evaporate but sometimes you just have to use what you got.
@@kevola5739 Thanks for the response. Dad was a luthier, and there was always lacquer, and thinner out in the shed. And, in college a friend who was a VW guy told me to do final cleaning with either lacquer thinner, or acetone. Of course, this is 30 years ago..... Any hows.... knowing what tool to use, or product is the real deal. Bless
I like acetone too.....I think parts cleaner is largely presurized acetone
After taking front bearing out put hub back on & nut , pull hard and seal and back bearing come out.
See, I knew the old Fords were needing attention....LOL Shalom
LOL
Informative!
Thanks
Great Video. I always inspect every thing I can see when doing that, like brake pads. Also HAYNES MANUALS on youtube has allot of helpful videos, but they want to sell things. Bill, Big Bay.
Thanks
The days of servicable front hubs are long gone. When you finally get around to replacing the front bearings, you might as well buy the new hubs.
Yup. Thats not "totally" bad. I changed the front wheels bearings in my ford escort a few years ago and they went bad around 270k. Thats not bad for an original part
i AGREE WITH YOUR LAST COMMENT, WHILE YOU'RE IN THERE, MIGHT AS WELL PUT IN A NEW SET, UNLESS YOU KNOW THE RECENT HISTORY. Cheap enough
What year is the truck?
88
Whic grade of grease
Prefer to replace the whole wheel bearings and race safe this way the wheel bearing worn out I see , soon you will hear a humming soon, good luck
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
👍
That's proably why my breaks squeal to!! Not greased proper. Thanks
You bet
Bearing were scrap. Final adjustment was way too tight. Tapered roller bearings must have .001" to .005" end play.
Plastic cages... discoloration..that's a trip to the parts store..or Rock Auto! 😉
yup
It's a split pin!
When you will fix somethig else. I I did not subscribe to all yours channels to wait so long😉.
I work when I work
If only it was this easy these days.... Toyota hates me.
LOL
Must be a ford
It's bushradical!!!