Made my first cross cut sled based on what I saw on your video, mine not as smart looking as yours but it works like a charm. For what I need at the moment the one runner was all I needed. Created the runners with my 3d printer as I couldn't find anything in the local hardware shops here in South Africa. Thanks for sharing your video with us amateur wood workers it saved me a lot of time and effort.
Thanks bud, I was weighing out one vs two rail, and trying to figure out how long I should make the runners. This video helped with both. Much appreciated.
You're a true craftsmen Willie, thanks for sharing your knowledge and passion so wonderfully. I was about to make my first cross cut sled and discovered a huge problem with my saw. My blade is perfectly aligned with my fence, however I have .012" of misalignment with the blade and the miter track. The .012" is from the front to the back of the blade so the total misalignment is much higher over the full length of my saw's table (front to back). This is easily resolved on "most" well made saws by adjusting the trunnion bolts. Sadly my generic table saw has no adjustment due to undersized trunnion holes for the bolts. To fix this I would have to disassemble most of the saw and attempt to enlarge the holes, which are cast iron. That's a project I won't be tackling for good while. Question... Can you think of a "work-around" that might still allow me to have a one or two rail cross cut sled that will work with my misaligned blade/miter tracks? Doubtful, but I'm hopeful you might have a rabbit you can pull out of your hat or shop apron. :))
Thanks for the kind words Richard - truly appreciated. You're on the right track with enlarging the trunion holes to make a slight adjustment. Once that's set, the fence should be easy to adjust. I've had projects like this that I stalled and delayed doing, like setting jointer tables coplaner. But once I took a day to do it, I realized it was well worth the time. Best to you.
I don't understand the metal support; I can't believe that it is more rigid than a wooden rail, and it is only connected at opposite ends of the fence. I would imagine that a 15cm x 15cm block glued and screwed over the kerf line would be more stable, lighter and cheaper. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this. I use a two rail sled and mitre bar - they cover pretty much all my requirements.
Good stuff! Have you considered making a fall-off section (semi fixed, with one runner), like the Incra kit as an add-on to the single runner sled? It would eliminate any possible tear out of the waste piece drop.
Yes, you could make the front fence 4-5" tall, and that would clear the blade. However, I've found it's awkward to hold more common 3/4" stock down with a tall fence like that (standard fence height is 2-1/4"). I guess I prefer to cut 8/4 with my single rail sled. Very smart and thoughtful comment! Best to you.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworkerMy front fence is 3-1/2" tall and goes over the blade. A 10" blade only comes out 2-1/4" above the sled . Hands can still hold the workpieces!
Made my first cross cut sled based on what I saw on your video, mine not as smart looking as yours but it works like a charm. For what I need at the moment the one runner was all I needed. Created the runners with my 3d printer as I couldn't find anything in the local hardware shops here in South Africa. Thanks for sharing your video with us amateur wood workers it saved me a lot of time and effort.
Excellent Mike! Sounds like things worked out well for you. Best to you.
Thanks bud, I was weighing out one vs two rail, and trying to figure out how long I should make the runners. This video helped with both. Much appreciated.
You're a true craftsmen Willie, thanks for sharing your knowledge and passion so wonderfully. I was about to make my first cross cut sled and discovered a huge problem with my saw. My blade is perfectly aligned with my fence, however I have .012" of misalignment with the blade and the miter track. The .012" is from the front to the back of the blade so the total misalignment is much higher over the full length of my saw's table (front to back). This is easily resolved on "most" well made saws by adjusting the trunnion bolts. Sadly my generic table saw has no adjustment due to undersized trunnion holes for the bolts. To fix this I would have to disassemble most of the saw and attempt to enlarge the holes, which are cast iron. That's a project I won't be tackling for good while. Question... Can you think of a "work-around" that might still allow me to have a one or two rail cross cut sled that will work with my misaligned blade/miter tracks? Doubtful, but I'm hopeful you might have a rabbit you can pull out of your hat or shop apron. :))
Thanks for the kind words Richard - truly appreciated. You're on the right track with enlarging the trunion holes to make a slight adjustment. Once that's set, the fence should be easy to adjust. I've had projects like this that I stalled and delayed doing, like setting jointer tables coplaner. But once I took a day to do it, I realized it was well worth the time. Best to you.
Great video!
Thanks David
I don't understand the metal support; I can't believe that it is more rigid than a wooden rail, and it is only connected at opposite ends of the fence. I would imagine that a 15cm x 15cm block glued and screwed over the kerf line would be more stable, lighter and cheaper.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on this.
I use a two rail sled and mitre bar - they cover pretty much all my requirements.
It's just a different approach. It's been working well for me. Just make those two rail sleds deep enough for cabinet sides! Best to you.
A tough decision, but one may be better for the work you do
I was debating on getting one but the more I watch, the more I realize they are out of my budget for small projects around the house.
Good stuff! Have you considered making a fall-off section (semi fixed, with one runner), like the Incra kit as an add-on to the single runner sled? It would eliminate any possible tear out of the waste piece drop.
I thought about it, but that's as far as I got. Let me know if you prototype something. Good idea.
on the 2 runner version, do you have 48" top rail for the stopper ?
Yes, it's a continuous 48" length of Top Trak for the 2 rail sled. Best to you.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thank you for the prompt reply, best to you as well!
If the front fence of the 2-track sled is tall enough, that “top track” would be well above the blade when it is raised to its maximum height.
Yes, you could make the front fence 4-5" tall, and that would clear the blade. However, I've found it's awkward to hold more common 3/4" stock down with a tall fence like that (standard fence height is 2-1/4"). I guess I prefer to cut 8/4 with my single rail sled. Very smart and thoughtful comment! Best to you.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworkerMy front fence is 3-1/2" tall and goes over the blade.
A 10" blade only comes out 2-1/4" above the sled .
Hands can still hold the workpieces!
@@deek3048 Huh? Not sure I grasp your point, but I'd like to.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker You don't need a fence that's 4-5" tall since the blade doesn't come out that high with a sled!