At 70 I've used tablesaws a long time. Still have all my parts. This is one of the most informative videos I've seen on you tube. You done a great job. All new users should watch and do what you have shown. Great video.
Your feedback means a lot, especially coming from someone who's been using table saws for as long as you have. I'm glad I could contribute something valuable. Thank you for watching!
Rich, love what you have to say. I just bought a new table saw with in the last few days and am in the process of setting it up. I just found your video and am very pleased. Some of the things you mentioned I already have or know. I attending to do everything you mentioned in the future. You explained everything very clearly and look to be an old easer like me with a lot more experience than me. When and if I retire, I hope to stay busy with woodworking. I have now subscribed, and will keep looking for your advice. Great stuff, keep it up.
Just found your channel. I retired last fall and I’m working on setting up a do a little bit of a shop including wood work. Really have Injoyed your Chanel. I have a lot of the tools I need because I’ve done a lot of carpentry work. Been buying tools and planing this for years. Learnt a lot from you already. Thank you
Tip #17 for newer woodworkers just building out their tool set. Try to pick one brand for your cordless tools and avoid needing multiple different batteries and chargers.
This was a lot of helpful tips. Great information. I'm still very much an amateur and have seen many of these tips in various videos, but I like that your video has them bundled together. I even learned a couple new tips.
Another fantastic saw here in the U.S. is the Skil 10". Rack and pinion fence, built in legs that are very stable, and some calibration features not found on saws over $800. I got mine for $270 on sale and it's fantastic.
This video is GOLD. Most all woodworking creators here on YT are shills for sponsors and that filthy YT lucre--whether the products are good or not. There's a reason why the following maxim exists: "A poor carpenter blames his tools." Rock on!
Thanks Rich, you taught me a lot about the table saw that I can definitely use. Do you happen to have a video on a radial arm saw? I have just been given one. What I need are the good, safe practices on how to use it. Thanks again for the table saw info.
Thank you for your teaching video. Your voice is calming and soothing. I do have a couple questions about the making for table sleds. Why wouldn't you want friction on the table? What is the possibility of sagging? And does it matter if it sags?
I just like to avoid excess friction, when I can, to make the saw cut easier. Considering that the sled doesn’t sit on the table saw all the time, I doubt that it will sag from its own weight. However, as another viewer noted, I pushed down on the right side of the sled with my hand, causing it to sag. That’s something that I never do, and when I did it, I mentally asked myself why I did it that time. Having it sag like that is a problem, as it would show up in the cut, causing the blade to cut the board at an angle, on the return stroke.
You have a wealth of shop knowledge, you are one of those presenters who can pull off a 50+ minute video, that I watch to the end. I've learned a lot from this, thank you!
Thanks for this. Made adjustments to my einhell table saw. Haven't gotten around to making jigs yet. Love that you say you too cheap to buy the clamps. I can't afford to buy many of these things and as they are too expensive for my pocket.
Hi Dr Rich, thank you for the great video. Just on the sled, you should have protection of the blade protruding pass the sled. I nilly got caught myself.
I bought the same saw just over a year ago. I use the panel saw slide regularly instead of a sled. Works for what I do. I can't use a dado stack as I'm on the other side of the pond. I confess to buying the zero clearance plate now offered by the manufacturer, as I did feel confident in building 1. I use the shipped blade at the start of a project as my lumber is all recycled. Pallets, fence pickets, bed stats whatever I can scrounge. I do use an 80 tooth for finish cuts. Thanks for doing what you do here. Take care & stay safe.
You folks on that side of the pond seem to be in luck. This looks like it gets you legal for dado blades. ruclips.net/video/jsA0wY_FmJ0/видео.htmlsi=Nzu-PP08qIis5P-e
Very well done, Sir! While I have varying levels of experience on each of your 16 topics, I learned many points on all of them. Notes aplenty! Thank you for sharing your expertise with so many. We are safer and better for this video!
Thankyou Dr Rich, what a gift you have given us in this video! Especially the safety aspects. I wondered while you talked about making jigs whether changing an old blade for a new one would cause damage to the jigs which were a perfect fit for the old one. Does the act of changing a blade knock the alignment and direction out a bit, and if so can you use something (say, your zero-clearance throat plate) to realign it?
Good question. A lot depends on the old and new blades, specifically their thickness and the resulting saw kerf. Older blades were pretty much always 1/8” thick, with thin kerf blades being a specialty item. Now, most blades are thin kerf, with 1/8” thick blades being harder to come by. Given that, changing from one blade width to the other will affect how the saw cuts in these various jigs. For most, the difference is insignificant; other than the wider blade cutting a wider kerf. But switching from a wider kerf to a narrow kerf could allow some splintering along the edge of the cut. The one jig where it’s really going to make a difference is with the tapering jig. That jig requires the edge of the jig being right up against the saw kerf, as that edge is the cut line. So, if you switch blades, you might find that you’re not cutting on your line.
Thanks for this video. Got myself a contractor saw and tried to use a thin kerf blade (2.6mm) from CMT, but ran into the issue that the riving knife is too wide. (2.8mm intended for a 3mm blade). They don't sell replacement riving knives so unfortunately my thin kerf blade is useless (won't use the saw without the riving knife)
Could you get some 2.5 mm aluminium sheet and copy the riving knife holes and outline onto it and cut it out? Or some stiff fibreboard you can plane to the right thickness you can cut out a riving knife replacement from?
Riving knives are the current rage but in 50 yrs of using table-saws I’ve used them but never owned one and have never had a problem. The only way you can use one is when you’re ripping stock- if you use a dado or a sled you have to take it out anyway.
What purpose does the adjustable side piece on the push block serve? Is it for stability when pushing narrower pieces? Every time I see one of these, no one talks about what the side piece is for, lol.
Screws for the plexiglass should be flat underneath like Kreg screws and not a tapered head which will crack the plexiglass if too much torque is used. Better safe than sorry.
If you'll feel more safe with a SawStop--by all means get one. It won't prevent a kickback. I feel it's an unnecessary gimmick that might make me trust the saw more than maintaining my own awareness of and respect for careless or dangerous practices. The best safety device is complete attention and proper judgment.
One comment - put a blade box on the back of your sled. You might think your hands will never be there, but my uncle, who also had 50 yrs as a professional builder and woodworker, amputated his thumb using a table saw sled. Get rid of the l plexiglass shield, it’s useless, and your hands never will be near the blade on that side, but they’re ALWAYS in harm’s way on the rear fence of the sled.
I have been woodworking on and off for 50 years. I have to say, if I could teach, your style is one I would emulate. Even though I know most of these things, a review of skills and knowledge is never a bad thing. A very good job sir. Thank you for your time and trouble.
Theoretically yes. However, I’ve never had or worked with a table saw where the blade was not parallel to the miter slots. The idea of using a dial indicator to check blade runout on a table saw didn’t even exist until just recently and nobody was making a jig for it. While I do mention the possibility of needing to adjust the motor and blade carriage, table saws really aren’t designed for this to be adjustable.
The purpose of a thin kerf blade is less power. A must on low powered saws. Blade stabilizers aren’t a “might” they’re a must. The very first thing you do is check the alignment. Good effort but you left out a couple important things.
I use a blade stabilizer but only 1 outboard of the arbor. If I add one inboard then I offset my measurements with my ruler on the fence guide. But I have a 3 hp cabinet saw and use a very flat Forrest blade. For the sled, I don't fix the location until I make test cuts. Which means I don't glue it down. I screw in the fence in 2 points, make my cut, then verify it is square. Then adjust or call it good and add more screws for the final setting. Also the back fence on my sled is not a solid wood that might warp. There was an article in Fine Woodworking that suggested cut strips of MDF and 2 strips of plywood to sandwich these together, plywood on top and bottom, and glue that up. This fence is not going to warp unless you get it soaking wet. Then rip/trim/joint the fence to straight and flat. Want to add fixtures? That is why you have plywood on the top. FYI, I find it handy to make a 90° sled for small or medium parts. The larger sled can be unwieldy.
Hi, I have the same saw table and stated you use dado blade. I have looked for a suitable dodo and unable to find one as the bore is 1 inch/ 25.4mm. Most bores are 25/32" (20 mm), 0.984" (25 mm) or 1 3/16 (30 mm). Can you provide where you brought yours for the evolution rage 5. I'm in Australia. It would be of assistance if you supply in the video details a list of the commercially available items you use with the locations you brought them. Thanks
The dado stack I make reference to is an old set I have, old enough that it isn’t even carbide tipped (that tells you how often I use it). The important part is that it has a 5.8” arbor hole. On the Evolution saw, the washer that goes on the arbor before the blade is reversible. It comes factory installed with the side for 1” arbor blades facing out. But the other side allows for 5/8 arbor blades, making the saw more versatile. Please note that the arbor isn’t long enough for a full dado stack. I’ve only used it for about 1/4” dadoes. It could probably accommodate 3/8”, but that’s about it.
Great video! I’d like to you actually using the jigs in videos, making cuts and showing off what they achieve and showing the practical uses and the results of finished work. Now I want to make some of these jigs and sleds to do better, more precise cuts.
I started with a ridgid job site table saw and still have and use it, but my wife really wanted me to get a sawstop. Is it expensive? Of course. What does losing a finger cost you?
Thin kerf blades also require less horsepower. I use a Dewalt DW735 jobsite saw, carefully aligned, and with a sled can work to great precision with jigs such as yours. Thanks for a practical video.
I bought a table saw jig book when I started woodworking 30 years ago. This video is basically that book in a one-hour video. Everything jig you need to know. Awesome! I just subscribed to your channel and am looking forward to seeing more of your content.
Hi from France ! I've got the same Rage 5S table saw and I'm very happy with it. Another great improvement I made is adding a soft start module, it's cheap, easy to wire and very efficient. The new aluminium plate from Evolution is also a nice upgrade to replace the orange plastic one, except for angled cuts of course. Thanks for your video.
If you don't have a zero clearance throat plate and need to cut small strips that can fall into the blade slot, start by lowering the blade all the way down. Lay a strip of wide painter's tape over the blade slot. Switch the saw on and slowly raise the blade through the tape. Done. Easy peasy.
Absolutely loved this video. I've just purchased the Rage5-s and am currently putting it together; it's my first table saw and I can't wait to start my first project which will be the sled that you designed/recommended. Thank you. PS: Can I use a Dado Stack on this saw?
The arbor on the table saw is too short for a full dado stack. I’ve put a partial stack on mine, allowing me to cut a 3/8” dado; but haven’t tried going beyond that. Technically, as long as the nut fully engages with the threads on the arbor, it should work.
I like that saw you have and I see Amazon has them right now for $379.00 :) Only thing I'm not a fan of is its tubular base. If I get one I think I'd try to retrofit it to my Rockwell model 9's cabinet style base. I love my old Rockwell but it does have its shortcomings not the least of which is finding blades I like with it taking 9 inch blades.
In a humid climate the saw top will rust requiring cleaning. I found that a light coat of clear epoxy with a small amount of acetone, alcohol, or s slow drying glycol will provide a gravity leveling to eliminate brush strokes. When cured s light sanding and 000 steel wool buff will provide a smooth surface. I also treat the miter tracks.
Having just purchased my first table saw, I thank you for sharing these tips and taking the time to make this video. The alternate camera angles were a bonus! Also, though I can't quite identify it - nice watch!
I'm too cheap to buy the dovetail clamp too. I have a 12 inch wide board and I routed a few dados and inserted t tracks perpendicular to edge. My cheap clamps will hold a board in place to make a cut. I mainly use it to joint 1 side of the board. It can also make tapers.
I think the router is close second behind the table saw in terms of versatility and usefulness. Maybe another one of these videos for routers and router tables would be nice!
Wisdom is earned ❤ I made a crosscut sled yesterday before watching this video and it is my first one so please note my comment is coming from a kook. I noticed your sled pivot to your right at 38m41sec in your video when you applied pressure to the side overhanging the guide. It seems that if you were running it on the table surface you would never have that happen and considering the sled is about precision would it not be better to run it flush on the table surface ? Especially with all that beeswax, it should just float.
Sharp eyes! Yeah, I did that wrong. Probably the only time I’ve ever pressed down on a crosscut sled that way. Your opinion is valid. I’d say it’s more a matter of personal opinion.
its good to see a evolution rage5 table saw in use in the usa, i have one and its outstanding,, i have also made most of the jigs you suggest, but its not just about the equipment its about the user, useing it safely, that applies to any machine,. there is a wealth of help and how to use/do out there , and above all do it safetly thats always number 1. thanks for the video/help.
Great job. As a fairly new woodworker (3 years) I've learned a lot from videos like yours. Although I've implemented many of your tips already, I learned a couple new ones from you today. Also, many of your tips acted as reinforcement to some of my jig designs and practices. Thanks for sharing your experience.
This is without a doubt the very best video on the table saw for newbies I have seen on RUclips. It is the only one that has gone through setting up a new saw, it is explained well put across even better, and the knowledge you have gained is freely passed on to us who new to woodwork. Thankyou for this video and I am now subscribed
@sawinery-woodworking hello Rich,thanks for reaching.Sorry to inform about your website which is difficult to navigate .can we get the project software through sawinery.net Please can you do a full video about your website and how to access your courses.Steve Ramsey website is a delight for ease of access. I want to get the project software from sawinery.
@@2logj Thank you for your feedback. We're currently working on improving the site, so it’s undergoing development at the moment. Appreciate your patience and understanding!
Oops, im in the wrong shop i have a 1,700 a 2500 and a 500 dollar saw as well as 2 radial arm saws and 2 band saws. I.bought the 2500 dollar saw when it was 850 bucks less then 20 years ago. Thats how crazy the cost of tools are now. I won the 1700 dollar saw when it was 1500, and bought the 500 dollar saw almost new used once for 100 bucks, The ras store close out was a 700 dollar saw. You just have to look for deals.
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At 70 I've used tablesaws a long time. Still have all my parts. This is one of the most informative videos I've seen on you tube. You done a great job. All new users should watch and do what you have shown. Great video.
Your feedback means a lot, especially coming from someone who's been using table saws for as long as you have. I'm glad I could contribute something valuable. Thank you for watching!
2nd that at 62👍
Thank you sir you made a great video
One of the simplest and best tips on table saw do's and don'ts I have seen on YT.
Thank you! Appreciate it.
this is probably the most useful wood working video i have seen on youtube thank you for this!
Yours 50 yrs of experience came with some very useful tips!
Thank you.
Awesome, thanks for the kind words! 😊
Rich, love what you have to say. I just bought a new table saw with in the last few days and am in the process of setting it up. I just found your video and am very pleased. Some of the things you mentioned I already have or know. I attending to do everything you mentioned in the future. You explained everything very clearly and look to be an old easer like me with a lot more experience than me. When and if I retire, I hope to stay busy with woodworking. I have now subscribed, and will keep looking for your advice. Great stuff, keep it up.
Thank you for subscribing, I really appreciate the support! I'm glad the video was helpful for you. Enjoy your new table saw! 😊
Just found your channel. I retired last fall and I’m working on setting up a do a little bit of a shop including wood work. Really have Injoyed your Chanel. I have a lot of the tools I need because I’ve done a lot of carpentry work. Been buying tools and planing this for years. Learnt a lot from you already. Thank you
Tip #17 for newer woodworkers just building out their tool set. Try to pick one brand for your cordless tools and avoid needing multiple different batteries and chargers.
Picking a brand for cordless tools is like a marriage. Need to pick the right one the first time, or you'll have to pay more the second time around.
This was a lot of helpful tips. Great information. I'm still very much an amateur and have seen many of these tips in various videos, but I like that your video has them bundled together. I even learned a couple new tips.
Awesome, it's great to hear that you found this helpful. Thanks for the support!
Another fantastic saw here in the U.S. is the Skil 10". Rack and pinion fence, built in legs that are very stable, and some calibration features not found on saws over $800. I got mine for $270 on sale and it's fantastic.
This video is GOLD. Most all woodworking creators here on YT are shills for sponsors and that filthy YT lucre--whether the products are good or not. There's a reason why the following maxim exists: "A poor carpenter blames his tools." Rock on!
Really appreciate your support and kind words! I'm glad the video was helpful. 😊
Thanks Rich, you taught me a lot about the table saw that I can definitely use. Do you happen to have a video on a radial arm saw? I have just been given one. What I need are the good, safe practices on how to use it. Thanks again for the table saw info.
I’ve cut my thumb twice. Apparently I’m a slow learner. No major damage but I still see the kerf design.
Thanks for your emphasis on safety.
Excellent advice. Perhaps Lexan -- less prone to fracture -- instead of Plexiglass for your sled guard.
Thank you for your teaching video. Your voice is calming and soothing. I do have a couple questions about the making for table sleds. Why wouldn't you want friction on the table? What is the possibility of sagging? And does it matter if it sags?
I just like to avoid excess friction, when I can, to make the saw cut easier. Considering that the sled doesn’t sit on the table saw all the time, I doubt that it will sag from its own weight. However, as another viewer noted, I pushed down on the right side of the sled with my hand, causing it to sag. That’s something that I never do, and when I did it, I mentally asked myself why I did it that time. Having it sag like that is a problem, as it would show up in the cut, causing the blade to cut the board at an angle, on the return stroke.
@sawinery-woodworking thank you so much, sir!
I have the same saw Sir, I’ll be upgrading mine at the W/end.
Top video.
🎉thanks for sharing this with me and take time to show your tips..blessings
You're welcome! Glad I could help out.
Holy crap this is excellent!
Thank you!
You have a wealth of shop knowledge, you are one of those presenters who can pull off a 50+ minute video, that I watch to the end. I've learned a lot from this, thank you!
Thanks! I’m thrilled you found the video worth watching to the end.
Thank you for this video.
Great video. Comprehensive.
Thanks for this. Made adjustments to my einhell table saw. Haven't gotten around to making jigs yet. Love that you say you too cheap to buy the clamps. I can't afford to buy many of these things and as they are too expensive for my pocket.
Great video and excellent suggestions sir!
Hi Dr Rich, thank you for the great video. Just on the sled, you should have protection of the blade protruding pass the sled. I nilly got caught myself.
I bought the same saw just over a year ago. I use the panel saw slide regularly instead of a sled. Works for what I do. I can't use a dado stack as I'm on the other side of the pond. I confess to buying the zero clearance plate now offered by the manufacturer, as I did feel confident in building 1. I use the shipped blade at the start of a project as my lumber is all recycled. Pallets, fence pickets, bed stats whatever I can scrounge. I do use an 80 tooth for finish cuts. Thanks for doing what you do here. Take care & stay safe.
You folks on that side of the pond seem to be in luck. This looks like it gets you legal for dado blades. ruclips.net/video/jsA0wY_FmJ0/видео.htmlsi=Nzu-PP08qIis5P-e
As the miter slots are the one element that cannot be adjusted, the blade and then the fence should be adjusted to parallel the slots.
Very well done, Sir! While I have varying levels of experience on each of your 16 topics, I learned many points on all of them. Notes aplenty!
Thank you for sharing your expertise with so many. We are safer and better for this video!
Thanks for your kind words. I'm happy you found this one helpful. Appreciate the support! 😊
Thankyou Dr Rich, what a gift you have given us in this video! Especially the safety aspects. I wondered while you talked about making jigs whether changing an old blade for a new one would cause damage to the jigs which were a perfect fit for the old one. Does the act of changing a blade knock the alignment and direction out a bit, and if so can you use something (say, your zero-clearance throat plate) to realign it?
Good question. A lot depends on the old and new blades, specifically their thickness and the resulting saw kerf. Older blades were pretty much always 1/8” thick, with thin kerf blades being a specialty item. Now, most blades are thin kerf, with 1/8” thick blades being harder to come by. Given that, changing from one blade width to the other will affect how the saw cuts in these various jigs. For most, the difference is insignificant; other than the wider blade cutting a wider kerf. But switching from a wider kerf to a narrow kerf could allow some splintering along the edge of the cut.
The one jig where it’s really going to make a difference is with the tapering jig. That jig requires the edge of the jig being right up against the saw kerf, as that edge is the cut line. So, if you switch blades, you might find that you’re not cutting on your line.
Thanks for this video.
Got myself a contractor saw and tried to use a thin kerf blade (2.6mm) from CMT, but ran into the issue that the riving knife is too wide. (2.8mm intended for a 3mm blade). They don't sell replacement riving knives so unfortunately my thin kerf blade is useless (won't use the saw without the riving knife)
Could you get some 2.5 mm aluminium sheet and copy the riving knife holes and outline onto it and cut it out? Or some stiff fibreboard you can plane to the right thickness you can cut out a riving knife replacement from?
Riving knives are the current rage but in 50 yrs of using table-saws I’ve used them but never owned one and have never had a problem. The only way you can use one is when you’re ripping stock- if you use a dado or a sled you have to take it out anyway.
Very useful information~
Thanks!
If you buy a thin kerf blade you need to be sure your riving knife will still work I found that out the hard way on a jobsite dewalt tablesaw
What purpose does the adjustable side piece on the push block serve? Is it for stability when pushing narrower pieces? Every time I see one of these, no one talks about what the side piece is for, lol.
You’ve got it, it’s for improving stability when cutting narrow pieces.
@@sawinery-woodworking Thanks!
Screws for the plexiglass should be flat underneath like Kreg screws and not a tapered head which will crack the plexiglass if too much torque is used. Better safe than sorry.
You can use the taper jig to square up an edge if you don't have a jointer, can't you?
Yes you can; works well.
As an FYI... All blades have some runout to prevent binding. That said, better blades usually have minimal runout.
Puedes poner el enlace para comprar el disco de reemplazo ?
If you’re talking about the blade stabilizers, I bought them on Amazon.
No , me refiero al disco de corte
sawstop it buys itself and may save you money when we have the first accident the sawstop saves the trip to the ER visit
If you'll feel more safe with a SawStop--by all means get one. It won't prevent a kickback. I feel it's an unnecessary gimmick that might make me trust the saw more than maintaining my own awareness of and respect for careless or dangerous practices. The best safety device is complete attention and proper judgment.
"Hi I'm Rich" doesn't sound like a very humble way to start a video in my opinion :D.
Stop using 99% sick of hearing it u are assuming people are dumb
Far too many adverts
One comment - put a blade box on the back of your sled. You might think your hands will never be there, but my uncle, who also had 50 yrs as a professional builder and woodworker, amputated his thumb using a table saw sled. Get rid of the l plexiglass shield, it’s useless, and your hands never will be near the blade on that side, but they’re ALWAYS in harm’s way on the rear fence of the sled.
I would think the shield would help protect from kickbacks if nothing else.
I have a shield on my sled and I find it helps reduce sawdust in my face. Not a huge difference but every little bit helps.
What's a blade box? Just a marking or something physical?
@@oh.ok_woodwork just a small box behind the back of the sled to protect you from the blade going through it.
@@a9ball1 ah, like a "don't push the sled from this tiny box because the blade is aligned to go through this bit"
I have been woodworking on and off for 50 years. I have to say, if I could teach, your style is one I would emulate. Even though I know most of these things, a review of skills and knowledge is never a bad thing. A very good job sir. Thank you for your time and trouble.
Thank you so much! Really appreciate it, it motivates me to keep sharing what I know. 😄
Don't you want to make sure the fence and the tracks are parallel first, then make sure the blade is parallel to the fence? Avoids extra work.
Theoretically yes. However, I’ve never had or worked with a table saw where the blade was not parallel to the miter slots. The idea of using a dial indicator to check blade runout on a table saw didn’t even exist until just recently and nobody was making a jig for it. While I do mention the possibility of needing to adjust the motor and blade carriage, table saws really aren’t designed for this to be adjustable.
Such a great presentation, it felt much faster than 56 minutes. Love all the tips and information.
Thanks for the compliment! Happy to know the video kept you interested. ☺
The purpose of a thin kerf blade is less power. A must on low powered saws. Blade stabilizers aren’t a “might” they’re a must. The very first thing you do is check the alignment. Good effort but you left out a couple important things.
I use a blade stabilizer but only 1 outboard of the arbor. If I add one inboard then I offset my measurements with my ruler on the fence guide. But I have a 3 hp cabinet saw and use a very flat Forrest blade.
For the sled, I don't fix the location until I make test cuts. Which means I don't glue it down. I screw in the fence in 2 points, make my cut, then verify it is square. Then adjust or call it good and add more screws for the final setting.
Also the back fence on my sled is not a solid wood that might warp. There was an article in Fine Woodworking that suggested cut strips of MDF and 2 strips of plywood to sandwich these together, plywood on top and bottom, and glue that up. This fence is not going to warp unless you get it soaking wet. Then rip/trim/joint the fence to straight and flat.
Want to add fixtures? That is why you have plywood on the top.
FYI, I find it handy to make a 90° sled for small or medium parts. The larger sled can be unwieldy.
And less friction. Less material removed meaning less dust too
Hi, I have the same saw table and stated you use dado blade. I have looked for a suitable dodo and unable to find one as the bore is 1 inch/ 25.4mm. Most bores are 25/32" (20 mm), 0.984" (25 mm) or 1 3/16 (30 mm). Can you provide where you brought yours for the evolution rage 5. I'm in Australia. It would be of assistance if you supply in the video details a list of the commercially available items you use with the locations you brought them. Thanks
The dado stack I make reference to is an old set I have, old enough that it isn’t even carbide tipped (that tells you how often I use it). The important part is that it has a 5.8” arbor hole. On the Evolution saw, the washer that goes on the arbor before the blade is reversible. It comes factory installed with the side for 1” arbor blades facing out. But the other side allows for 5/8 arbor blades, making the saw more versatile.
Please note that the arbor isn’t long enough for a full dado stack. I’ve only used it for about 1/4” dadoes. It could probably accommodate 3/8”, but that’s about it.
Great video! I’d like to you actually using the jigs in videos, making cuts and showing off what they achieve and showing the practical uses and the results of finished work. Now I want to make some of these jigs and sleds to do better, more precise cuts.
Thanks for sharing your Knowledge and Experience! It has been very helpful.
Awesome! Appreciate the support. 😀
I started with a ridgid job site table saw and still have and use it, but my wife really wanted me to get a sawstop. Is it expensive? Of course. What does losing a finger cost you?
Thin kerf blades also require less horsepower. I use a Dewalt DW735 jobsite saw, carefully aligned, and with a sled can work to great precision with jigs such as yours. Thanks for a practical video.
I bought a table saw jig book when I started woodworking 30 years ago. This video is basically that book in a one-hour video. Everything jig you need to know. Awesome! I just subscribed to your channel and am looking forward to seeing more of your content.
Bladestabalizer only performs well on saw with decent bearings. Only things help that is new bearings.
I enjoy the knowledge that you share in your content, Thank you.
I’m really glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
Hi from France ! I've got the same Rage 5S table saw and I'm very happy with it. Another great improvement I made is adding a soft start module, it's cheap, easy to wire and very efficient. The new aluminium plate from Evolution is also a nice upgrade to replace the orange plastic one, except for angled cuts of course. Thanks for your video.
Every table saw owner should watch this.
Yes, especially before spending $2400 on a table saw and then finding that I need have spent only $379. Ouch!
Use Counter sunk washer keep from cracking plexi
If you don't have a zero clearance throat plate and need to cut small strips that can fall into the blade slot, start by lowering the blade all the way down. Lay a strip of wide painter's tape over the blade slot. Switch the saw on and slowly raise the blade through the tape. Done. Easy peasy.
I've done those sleds but also made smaller versions but think the taper jig needs to be longer.
Exceptional. Thank you.👏🪚
Excellent ! Woodworkers can save a lot of money following your lead. Thanks.
Good info, video is hard to watch.
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Absolutely loved this video. I've just purchased the Rage5-s and am currently putting it together; it's my first table saw and I can't wait to start my first project which will be the sled that you designed/recommended. Thank you. PS: Can I use a Dado Stack on this saw?
The arbor on the table saw is too short for a full dado stack. I’ve put a partial stack on mine, allowing me to cut a 3/8” dado; but haven’t tried going beyond that. Technically, as long as the nut fully engages with the threads on the arbor, it should work.
@@sawinery-woodworking
Thanks Mate for the feed back, it's very much appreciated, as is your channel.
You are the freaking best! Thank you. Keep it up!
Appreciate the support, thanks!
I like that saw you have and I see Amazon has them right now for $379.00 :) Only thing I'm not a fan of is its tubular base. If I get one I think I'd try to retrofit it to my Rockwell model 9's cabinet style base. I love my old Rockwell but it does have its shortcomings not the least of which is finding blades I like with it taking 9 inch blades.
❤
In a humid climate the saw top will rust requiring cleaning. I found that a light coat of clear epoxy with a small amount of acetone, alcohol, or s slow drying glycol will provide a gravity leveling to eliminate brush strokes. When cured s light sanding and 000 steel wool buff will provide a smooth surface. I also treat the miter tracks.
Having just purchased my first table saw, I thank you for sharing these tips and taking the time to make this video. The alternate camera angles were a bonus! Also, though I can't quite identify it - nice watch!
I’ve cut my thumb twice. Apparently I’m a slow learner. No major damage but I still see the kerf design.
Thanks for your emphasis on safety.
I'm too cheap to buy the dovetail clamp too. I have a 12 inch wide board and I routed a few dados and inserted t tracks perpendicular to edge. My cheap clamps will hold a board in place to make a cut. I mainly use it to joint 1 side of the board. It can also make tapers.
I think the router is close second behind the table saw in terms of versatility and usefulness. Maybe another one of these videos for routers and router tables would be nice!
Wisdom is earned ❤
I made a crosscut sled yesterday before watching this video and it is my first one so please note my comment is coming from a kook. I noticed your sled pivot to your right at 38m41sec in your video when you applied pressure to the side overhanging the guide. It seems that if you were running it on the table surface you would never have that happen and considering the sled is about precision would it not be better to run it flush on the table surface ? Especially with all that beeswax, it should just float.
Sharp eyes! Yeah, I did that wrong. Probably the only time I’ve ever pressed down on a crosscut sled that way. Your opinion is valid. I’d say it’s more a matter of personal opinion.
its good to see a evolution rage5 table saw in use in the usa, i have one and its outstanding,, i have also made most of the jigs you suggest, but its not just about the equipment its about the user, useing it safely, that applies to any machine,. there is a wealth of help and how to use/do out there , and above all do it safetly thats always number 1. thanks for the video/help.
I would suggest you make sure the blade is parallel to the miter slot first. That ensures the blade and table are square. Then set the fence.
Great video... a wealth of valuable information.
Thanks very much!
Thank you so much sir, I appreciate your experience sharing and advices, it has help me a lot 👍🙏
Great job. As a fairly new woodworker (3 years) I've learned a lot from videos like yours. Although I've implemented many of your tips already, I learned a couple new ones from you today. Also, many of your tips acted as reinforcement to some of my jig designs and practices. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thank you! I'm glad that the video could offer you some new tips and reinforce your existing practices. Appreciate the feedback!
This is without a doubt the very best video on the table saw for newbies I have seen on RUclips. It is the only one that has gone through setting up a new saw, it is explained well put across even better, and the knowledge you have gained is freely passed on to us who new to woodwork. Thankyou for this video and I am now subscribed
Thank you so much, your feedback means a lot! Thanks for subscribing!
Absolutely valuable 👌
Great presentation and a Wealth of knowledge. I’ve learned a good bit from your presentation. Thank you! 🤜🤛🏻
Thank you! Happy to hear you enjoyed it!
Amazing knowledge.This is like a college course on Woodworking.Please continue.
I like all jigs especically the push blocks,sleds
Thank you so much! We just released a masterclass on wood finishing as well, hope you check that out on the channel! 😊
@sawinery-woodworking hello Rich,thanks for reaching.Sorry to inform about your website which is difficult to navigate .can we get the project software through sawinery.net
Please can you do a full video about your website and how to access your courses.Steve Ramsey website is a delight for ease of access.
I want to get the project software from sawinery.
@@2logj Thank you for your feedback. We're currently working on improving the site, so it’s undergoing development at the moment. Appreciate your patience and understanding!
@sawinery-woodworking please do .Your project software for life is a revolutionary idea.Keep us inspired.
Oops, im in the wrong shop
i have a 1,700 a 2500 and a 500 dollar saw as well as 2 radial arm saws and 2 band saws.
I.bought the 2500 dollar saw when it was 850 bucks less then 20 years ago. Thats how crazy the cost of tools are now. I won the 1700 dollar saw when it was 1500, and bought the 500 dollar saw almost new used once for 100 bucks,
The ras store close out was a 700 dollar saw.
You just have to look for deals.