I saw this video about a year ago and tucked it away for future reference. As it turns out, I just used this method to size plywood panels to make cabinets in my garage. It is genius, and it worked like a dream! Thanks for all of your no-nonsense woodworking tutorials. They are greatly appreciated!
Great tip, I am a cabinetmaker and I enjoy figuring out clever ways of solving the puzzles that woodworking presents. One suggestion for increased accuracy: when measuring from the saw blade to the edge of the table to check if they are parallel, take a magic marker and mark a tooth on the blade then measure from the marked tooth to the edge then rotate the blade so that you can measure from the same tooth for your second measurement. The saw blade may be warped just slightly and measuring from the same tooth both times eliminates that issue. Keep the great tips coming!
We usually just cut from the drop side against the fence. If you stand with the sheet braced against your hip and keep your hands outside the blade, even if it does kickback, it will throw the sheet in such a way that it will rotate off your hip and your hands will be thrown away from the blade. The saw sounds like it is on the verge of kickback the entire time you are cutting ( because it is), but your cuts will be within a 32nd straight and that is fine if you hide that edge where the shoe molding or crown will cover it.
Blade warpage will make one tooth, or teeth, on that blade a shorter distance from the table edge than all the rest, so arbitrarily picking a tooth, or teeth, other than that one(s) just mentioned, will give you an incorrect cutting distance. One way to check for warpage, and if it exists, to identify the shortest distanced tooth, or teeth, is to use an indicator mounted on a stand and check the blade by rotating it by hand to check for the high point which will allow you to identify the shortest distince tooth, or teeth from your table edge.
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time I am not convinced that is necessary, especially if you can adjust for that slight change in dimension when you set the fence distance. Otherwise you can make a couple cuts and bring your fence distance marker to the measured dimension cut.
I have been making things out of wood for 60 years. I have never seen this before. What I like best about it is that it appears to be very safe as well as accurate. Well done.
I like the way you explain everything you're doing. Your method of attaching a problem shows fresh, out of the box, thinking. Also, thanks for the vocabulary lesson.
Hi Jodee, I used this method this morning to cut the sides of a set of cabinets to their final size. I have an old 119 series Craftsman table saw that has a limited fence width, however, this method worked GREAT! I receive a lot of value from your videos. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to produce these awesome resources!
Now that I have seen this video I remember doing the same thing at some time in the past. I think I may have used it to cut a diagonal edge. Excellent tip. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Yup, genius. Used it to trim off 1/8" off a 36" piece of plywood for a drawer bottom on my teeny tiny Makita jobsite saw instead of using a circular saw. Easy, safe and square. THANKS!!!
Thanks Jody, I have watched this video several times in the past and I now find myself in need of putting it into action. I actually lost sleep last night trying figure out how I was going to make this happen. This morning as I was in the shop still being frustrated , this video popped into my head, thus I had to come in to give it another view. Keep up the good work, we appreciate it!
Great tip and I'll keep it in mind that next time I'm faced with that issue. Another tip if one wanted to increase the accuaracy when measuring from the table edge to the saw blade, simply place a long straight edge (12" to 15") against two of the saw teeth to widen the area of the measurement when checking for parallelism.
Nice tip! Thanks for that. I retired my table saw for any full/half sheet cuts. I got that Kreg rip cut and with my Skil magnesium worm drive and a sheet of rigid foam insulation under it, it’s so much easier.
In shop class back in 69 the table saw fence were junk so the teacher showed us how to do exactly the way you just showed. I still use the method on long boards Thanks for sharing.
Normally I would use my circular saw guide for a cut like this but I tried this instead. It worked out great. I was able to support the offcut with full control. Thanks!
I was actually wondering if you couldn't use one of those clamp-on circular saw edge guides like Harbor Freight and Bora have to ride the edge of the table saw instead of the clamped board.
Honestly I love the way your brain works. Whenever I want to do something in a diff way than normal but still very efficient I always come to your channel first. This is Brilliant ! going to be using it today. thanks Jodie
And this video is a good example of why this is my favourite channel. I run into this problem all the time and I always turn to my wobbly circ saw. Thank you so much for posting this.
Make a simple brace for the rear of your wobbly saw, so that the baseplate is supported in two places, rather than just at the height adjustment hinge. So, looking from the rear of the saw.... Instead of 1 support like this on your base: ._.||.___. You have it supported in 2 places, like this: ._.||.___\. By triangulating it, the wobble and flex will instantly be removed.
Thank you for bringing up the often forgotten parallel edge guide in a table saw. I have a craftsman table saw with tabs on top of miter gauge slots, making it difficult to construct runners for the sled. Thanks to an utuber, I built the sled with runners guided by the outside ends of the table, just like the one u have shown. No fancy trial and error to build the perfect runners to run on table slot.
@@wendytorkelson9305 don’t remember. The fix is easy. With an angle grinder you can cut off the tabs, if you want to use the table slots for sled rails. Or, you can build a bigger sled with table edges as guides with runners attached to the sled
I love this. I submit that this can also be used for making cabinet panels, (typically 34-1/2 in. long), where some home saws only have a 24 in. wide table, And yes there are other ways to accomplish that, (as you stated), but for 2-6 panels, this is a great idea. Not everyone can afford/have the room for a cabinet saw.
@@InspireWoodcraft Just an observation: You don't need to worry about the tape hook at the start of the tape messing your measurement, that hook moves a distance precisely calculated to take into account the hook thickness.
What a great trick! I wish I had found this a few weeks ago! Working on building my first cabinet out of plywood using my jobsite table saw and had a few cuts I had to make with a circular saw + guide that inevitably came out less-than-square which just compounded after I kept cutting from it. I've got a lot of cleanup to do. Thanks for the tip!
Nice tip! As a cabinet maker of 30 years (I now have saws that will cut this, but before...), I would have used a router, straight edge and clamps to do the same cut. For guys interested in woodworking, it's AMAZING, how many times you will use a GOOD track saw if you spend the money for one! Free hand cuts (odd shapes and angles) and live edge cuts are pretty much made SAFE, and it's EASY to make track jigs for a router or other equipment!
Insanely useful tip! Would’ve never thought of this one. I’m always amazed at the tips you come up with and share. Definitely keeping this one in my back pocket
I have fought with trying to make cuts that tests the limits of my fence, and this is an interesting solution to that. I guess you could extend the table edge out, like this, as far as you needed to make this work with pretty wide cuts. Thanks!
@@slimdout if you are worried about it pulling up off of the blade you can clamp a piece of scrap to the fence a little over the height of the material, and bring it in tight enough to the blade to hold the sheet down.
Have a DW744 older jobsite Table Saw. Rough piece cut with Circular Saw. Used your method to true up... Worked GREAT!! Thanks much... I will remember this method!!
I'm so glad people are getting use out of this! I just used the same trick yesterday to cut the end off of piece a butcher block countertop. Worked perfect.
You can avoid some hassle by setting the table saw fence next to the blade, then lower the blade and just clamp the guide board to your sheet using your fence as a reference. And, Check for square! Great videos!
Great tip. I have seen a few other jigs using the very straight and sturdy edge of the table - it is an overlooked feature. For me I use the track saw, then perhaps a router and trim bit. I just hate wrestling with a large heavy sheet…. But this is an excellent option without those.
Nice one! This is a great method and a safe one for the large sheet goods. I used to work in a shop with a 52” fence and there still comes a time when you need to make that thin rip off the side of a long sheet. It’s no fun having over 4 ft of waste and a thin rip between the fence and the blade.
Awesome! Love it! Will definitely be using it but also that was a crosscut and I saw no to minimal tear-out which makes me ask what kind of blade you’re using. Dude that was flawless!
I tried this today and it works! I used the Milescraft circular guide tracks as a straight edge and the T Track hold down clamps that it came with and got excellent results.
I think my favorite method of cleaning up an edge on a large piece is to use a trim router and set up a straight edge, and use a flush trim router bit.
100% agree with this remark. I'm a Retired General Contractor. A router is so much easier and can be used in the field without a table saw. A couple of saw horses, a couple of clamps, a straight edge (I use an aluminum 10' 2 x 4 screed) and a router with the proper bit. Not only is it faster, safer and easier, you get a jointer quality edge every time. If a jointer edge is not needed try a Skil worm drive contractor's saw with the proper blade. Wobble has never been an issue with that kind of saw with me. Also with the proper set up on saw horses you can cut right across the top of the saw horses to easily cut plywood of any length, in any direction with proper support, 8' 12' any foot, no problem with perfect straight cuts.
@@Ron-no4tp Thank you Ron. I have also used this method to make fine adjustments to make doors fit, or shave off a bit from the top and bottom. I have some closet doors that I built that I need to reduce their length to make the guides fit a bit better. And so, when I have time, thats one more on my list to do. When I am doing 1 1/2 thick material, I will use the router and take off a bit more than half way through and then come back with a flush trim bit and get the other side.
@@Ron-no4tp I've been a contractor for 40 years, getting ready for retirement myself. I don't even own a big heavy shop table saw, it just takes up too much real estate in my shop.. I do have a 10" job site table saw that I use If I have many rips to do, I'll bring that to the job. But, honestly, I prefer cutting sheets of plywood with a good straight edge with some clamps and a good corded circular saw, good blade is all you need and good saw horses with 2x4s on top, will get that job done easily, and alone with no help. Struggling with a full 3/4" sheet of finished plywood solo on a table saw is a hassle. As a contractor, I try to travel light. But for guys that are working on a budget, or have limited space, you can get table saw quality cuts on a very small budget and put it all away in a small space. I see so many shop wood workers that don't have a good $120 circular saw but they have a $2000 table saw. I've made lots of Built ins in homes with nothing more than a circular saw, a miter saw, a portable table saw, Most of the time, I don't even need a router.
I've used both the table saw edge method as well as the router/flush trim bit/straightedge method for many years. They both work well but the router is much less awkward when the panel hangs over the table saw edge by a large amount - for example, when you're cross-cutting something close to a full sheet.
I like the style of the videos, going through what you're doing and why in detail. I think these are helpful for the more inexperienced, but you also hear comments saying "I've been doing this for 20 years and never though about that". Liked and subscribed.
Smart my man. I've got a DeWalt tablesaw with a 36" rip capacity. And I've never used my fence that far out to make a cut. However, if my shop wasn't 80sq ft. I'm sure I would do bigger projects lol.. Anyhow all that to say, that's smart. Great idea. And I'll definitely keep that in my book of tricks for sure. So thank you.
Brilliant. I love my table saw but have found all too often, the table isn't long enough for so many cuts. I have used the trick with a circular saw and it works too, but love this 'hack' to extend the 'fence' on a table saw. Cheers.
Just getting used to ways to improve use on table saw, this is by far the simplest idea that I probably would not of thought of on my own, super cool dude, thanks.
Congrats on your channel. Just watched three of your videos on corner joint splines. They are, unarguably, the best three instructional table saw videos I have seen on YT. Simple, no bs, quick, informative. I hope more sponsors “pay” attention to you and more viewers find your channel. What you are teaching is indispensable. New follower. Cheers.
That is a great tip to share for those that did not know of it. Luckily for me, my father taught me that trick some 50 years ago and I have used it several times on my small capacity table saw. Since I bought a decent hand held circular saw I prefer to clamp a straight board on top of the stock piece to guide it if I can. My circular saw has no wobble like yours.
Good work, only suggestions would be to have support along the left edge if the amount hanging off the left exceeds the amount on the table and off the back edge. Second. Use a larger square. It will allow for greater accuracy and squarer cut
I would like to have seen him double check with the square from the other side once he got over there, but maybe he was just trying to use the factory edge. I would like to see a full size framing square for this.
Measuring from blade to table edge using a tape is far from ideal. Much better to use a metal rule, cost little more than tapes & you can' beat that accuracy.
@@wesman7837 All well and good so long as the reference edges are parallel.... and if the 'square' is actually square. Many are 'square if they could be'. 3 x 4 x 5 triangle geometry is better... don't you think?
I tried this last week and it works great. It takes a little extra math, but I was able to make a good straight cut beyond the rip capacity of my jobsite table saw. In fact, it worked so well, that I thought the opposite end was straight, but ended up reversing the board and cutting the opposite end to get a nice square piece.
Good trick, i will definitely be using it. However, in this case, I would have just clamped a straight edge and used the router though, eliminates having to manhandle a large sheet and a potential wobble when cutting it.
Yeah it was more to show the technique. I think a lot of people tried watching without listening though, as per the norm. I will add though that for me it would take longer to setup the router than just to do this. But that's because my router is in the lift, so I would have to get it out, change the bit, and so on.
Good idea, but by the time you did all that I would have just clamped a straight edge to the board and trimmed it off with my router or trimmer, especially if you where wanting to do the long edge. I don't a big slide table saw so I do this to my sheet before I start cutting anything.
If your miter gauge is parallel to your blade u could’ve measured from that and not limited to 8-9” measuring from your blade ,overcoming challenges is so much fun ,awesome job 😎
This is how I've made cuts that were too wide for my table saw for years. When your fence only goes to the right 36", you have to improvise, adapt, and overcome.
Good trick. You could use double sided tape on the backside with a runner in the miter slot for the same cut. It probably wouldn't help much for cutting plywood perfectly in half length wise, but it would work for a 36 inch cut like this.
I think the increased distance of the edge of the table vs the miter slot gives more precision. And double-sided tape will have just enough torsion play that it would be easy to wiggle the hanging end of the plywood back and forth as you travel. The clamps seem to provide reliable stability to not have any torsional wiggle, as long as you maintain pressure towards the table edge
I made a simple jig for my circular saw like you showed. I use a corded saw and it works fine for cuts like this. Been using it for years for cutting door bottoms and plywood.
I use a similar method on my radial arm saw to joint an edge or preserve a natural edge. I built the front table so that the front edge is perfectly parallel to the fence and clamp a straight edge in the same way that is shown in the video. This works best on wide boards using a narrow straight edge I position the carriage with as much of the board on the table as possible.
Good tip, short and sweet! If you have a lot of overhang, it helps to place a roller stand under that so you're not fighting that tendency to tip while you're pushing the sheet through the cut.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Good one and perfect timing. I cut a large cedar slab at a 45 yesterday to make a waterfall table. I used a clamped straight edge as a guide and a battery saw, but something didn't work and my 2 45's didn't match up. I need to re-cut the 45's on the table saw. With this trick, I think I can do it. If not, ill go to my buddy at the local sawmill and let him cut them on his radial saw. Thanks for the great tip.
For those without a large table saw. I use a BORA NGX 50” clamp edge, $49 and a 4.5” Porter Cable circular saw. The clamp can be set to any length and the over center cam lock secures the straight edge. A 4.5” saw is much easier to do this kind of cabinetry work. Wish my shop were as clean as yours.
To be honest, I'm getting a little tired of bait that announces something is mind-blowing, crazy, genius, or whatever high drama will get clicks. This is a handy tip. But that's all. No wonder we've stopped trusting the world around us.
Yes, What a useless waste of time. Some tricks are so obvious it's an insult to anyone's intelligence to actually take the time to make a video out of it. And here we are discussing it too. Click bait, and we fell for it.
Two observations: 1) you could set up the same fence but closer to the cut line and use it for a fence for a router with a straight bit - of course this wouldn't work for breaking down sheet goods but it works great for cleaning up edges. 2) using a larger square for setting up the fence will provide even greater accuracy.
Also noticed the plywood sheet was not down hard on the table (7:02 time stamp), so he did not achieve the "squareness" he spoke about early in the video. The circular saw and clamped-on fence would've done just as well.
@@kennnva551 Either a circ-saw or a router. I'd go with router. Both ways have the advantage of not needing to catch the out-feed. If the plywood reaches its balance/tipping point, it's really difficult to keep aligned. And a router has no skid-plate to wobble.
Big fan of your channel. I am bit confused still why all the trouble or why it's less trouble I should say than the other methods but maybe I wasn't doing a good job listening. In this case looks like you just want to clean up that edge and have it square. Couldn't you clamp a straightedge to it square and then just run a flush trim router bit down it if you didn't want to circ saw it?
Yeah my thoughts exactly. But you can use this method to do more than just cleaning up an edge. If you wanted to cut a thin strip off to then use, let's say.
And here I thought I had covered all the "you should have" comments. Haha! This is an old school method for panel break down. It works quite well for breaking down full sheets into cabinet-ready panels. The example I showed was because that is a common problem people run into and the table saw is right there to use. Plus it gives people another trick to use when they need it for something else, like panel break down.
@@InspireWoodcraft ha thanks for replying. I was asking to make sure I didn't miss anything, not from a place of "I know better" - definitely the opposite which was why I had to ask bc what did I miss? This definitely makes sense now on panel break up esp by passing the fence.
The thing I would change, because I'm not strong enough to hold the plywood steady (and I'm really short) is to put a couple of rolling supports under the other end of the material. This is really cool.
Been a cabinetmaker/woodworker for 30 years and I wish I had seen this a long time ago. This a great new "tool to have in my toolbox"
I saw this video about a year ago and tucked it away for future reference. As it turns out, I just used this method to size plywood panels to make cabinets in my garage. It is genius, and it worked like a dream! Thanks for all of your no-nonsense woodworking tutorials. They are greatly appreciated!
Great tip, I am a cabinetmaker and I enjoy figuring out clever ways of solving the puzzles that woodworking presents. One suggestion for increased accuracy: when measuring from the saw blade to the edge of the table to check if they are parallel, take a magic marker and mark a tooth on the blade then measure from the marked tooth to the edge then rotate the blade so that you can measure from the same tooth for your second measurement. The saw blade may be warped just slightly and measuring from the same tooth both times eliminates that issue. Keep the great tips coming!
We usually just cut from the drop side against the fence.
If you stand with the sheet braced against your hip and keep your hands outside the blade, even if it does kickback, it will throw the sheet in such a way that it will rotate off your hip and your hands will be thrown away from the blade.
The saw sounds like it is on the verge of kickback the entire time you are cutting ( because it is), but your cuts will be within a 32nd straight and that is fine if you hide that edge where the shoe molding or crown will cover it.
yes
Blade warpage will make one tooth, or teeth, on that blade a shorter distance from the table edge than all the rest, so arbitrarily picking a tooth, or teeth, other than that one(s) just mentioned, will give you an incorrect cutting distance. One way to check for warpage, and if it exists, to identify the shortest distanced tooth, or teeth, is to use an indicator mounted on a stand and check the blade by rotating it by hand to check for the high point which will allow you to identify the shortest distince tooth, or teeth from your table edge.
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time I am not convinced that is necessary, especially if you can adjust for that slight change in dimension when you set the fence distance.
Otherwise you can make a couple cuts and bring your fence distance marker to the measured dimension cut.
🎉
I have been making things out of wood for 60 years. I have never seen this before. What I like best about it is that it appears to be very safe as well as accurate. Well done.
Hardly accurate when the squaring is done with such a small square.
@@peterowens290 explain your point of being "inaccurate"
@@peterowens290., Exactly, hardly square, is the word.
@@peterowens290
Remember it’s not the size of the square that matters, it’s how you use it.
No I’m just fucking kidding, ....you’re right
@@charliedelta9501 that would be an unfortunate family name name of the company making the square. Hardly square. Lol
Bro, that was a great and simple trick! Well done!
I like the way you explain everything you're doing. Your method of attaching a problem shows fresh, out of the box, thinking. Also, thanks for the vocabulary lesson.
Thanks!
Hi Jodee, I used this method this morning to cut the sides of a set of cabinets to their final size. I have an old 119 series Craftsman table saw that has a limited fence width, however, this method worked GREAT!
I receive a lot of value from your videos. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to produce these awesome resources!
😊😊
Excellent tip. I admire guys who come up with great solutions in such a simple and elegant way.
Now that I have seen this video I remember doing the same thing at some time in the past. I think I may have used it to cut a diagonal edge. Excellent tip. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Yup, genius. Used it to trim off 1/8" off a 36" piece of plywood for a drawer bottom on my teeny tiny Makita jobsite saw instead of using a circular saw. Easy, safe and square. THANKS!!!
Thanks Jody, I have watched this video several times in the past and I now find myself in need of putting it into action. I actually lost sleep last night trying figure out how I was going to make this happen. This morning as I was in the shop still being frustrated , this video popped into my head, thus I had to come in to give it another view. Keep up the good work, we appreciate it!
Great tip and I'll keep it in mind that next time I'm faced with that issue. Another tip if one wanted to increase the accuaracy when measuring from the table edge to the saw blade, simply place a long straight edge (12" to 15") against two of the saw teeth to widen the area of the measurement when checking for parallelism.
Nice tip! Thanks for that.
I retired my table saw for any full/half sheet cuts. I got that Kreg rip cut and with my Skil magnesium worm drive and a sheet of rigid foam insulation under it, it’s so much easier.
In shop class back in 69 the table saw fence were junk so the teacher showed us how to do exactly the way you just showed. I still use the method on long boards Thanks for sharing.
Normally I would use my circular saw guide for a cut like this but I tried this instead. It worked out great. I was able to support the offcut with full control. Thanks!
I was actually wondering if you couldn't use one of those clamp-on circular saw edge guides like Harbor Freight and Bora have to ride the edge of the table saw instead of the clamped board.
Honestly I love the way your brain works. Whenever I want to do something in a diff way than normal but still very efficient I always come to your channel first. This is Brilliant ! going to be using it today. thanks Jodie
Me too, I feel a complete idiot that I didn't spot this trick myself...
That's a great one. Thanks for sharing this one, it'll save a ton of time and effort in the future.
You Sir, have the best woodworking tips on youtube by far. Thank you!!!!!
A brilliant demonstration of using the “Scientific Method!” Impeccable logic … flawlessly executed! Bravo!
And this video is a good example of why this is my favourite channel. I run into this problem all the time and I always turn to my wobbly circ saw.
Thank you so much for posting this.
Make a simple brace for the rear of your wobbly saw, so that the baseplate is supported in two places, rather than just at the height adjustment hinge.
So, looking from the rear of the saw....
Instead of 1 support like this on your base: ._.||.___.
You have it supported in 2 places, like this: ._.||.___\.
By triangulating it, the wobble and flex will instantly be removed.
Thank you for bringing up the often forgotten parallel edge guide in a table saw. I have a craftsman table saw with tabs on top of miter gauge slots, making it difficult to construct runners for the sled. Thanks to an utuber, I built the sled with runners guided by the outside ends of the table, just like the one u have shown. No fancy trial and error to build the perfect runners to run on table slot.
I would love to know where you found that. My TS is a really old craftsman with the tabbed miter slots, too.
@@wendytorkelson9305 don’t remember. The fix is easy. With an angle grinder you can cut off the tabs, if you want to use the table slots for sled rails. Or, you can build a bigger sled with table edges as guides with runners attached to the sled
Thanks for the tutorial you shared. We wish you all the best and look forward to your next videos.
I love this. I submit that this can also be used for making cabinet panels, (typically 34-1/2 in. long), where some home saws only have a 24 in. wide table, And yes there are other ways to accomplish that, (as you stated), but for 2-6 panels, this is a great idea. Not everyone can afford/have the room for a cabinet saw.
Or can afford a track saw that's actually decent. Thanks for leaving a rational comment and actually paying attention. Ha!
@@InspireWoodcraft Just an observation: You don't need to worry about the tape hook at the start of the tape messing your measurement, that hook moves a distance precisely calculated to take into account the hook thickness.
@@skwalka6372 its just hard to place the hook ontop of the board..
@@InspireWoodcraft super sketchy you have a $4,000+ sawstop table saw and woodpeckers tools but don't own a decent circular saw or a track saw... 😂😂😂
@Dave Ortwine or he is showing those that dont have those tools a way they can get stuff done on the saw they have, such as a jobsite saw.
WOW! This is one of those pearls of knowledge that are an instant GO-TO solution. You have made the world a better place. Thanks.
What a great trick! I wish I had found this a few weeks ago! Working on building my first cabinet out of plywood using my jobsite table saw and had a few cuts I had to make with a circular saw + guide that inevitably came out less-than-square which just compounded after I kept cutting from it. I've got a lot of cleanup to do. Thanks for the tip!
Another great, simple way to solve complex cutting issues. Thank you. Great tip.
This is a great Tip!…Thanks, I just hope I can remember it when I need it.
Very clever solution. Thanks for this demonstration.
Great tip for newbies, I learned how to that about 20 years ago. Love seeing it done so flawlessly.
Thanks so much for this tip. As a woodworker for over 50 years now, I have not seen this simple but effective tip!
Dude, that actually is a great method! I never would have thought of that. This is the first time I have come across your channel. Good job!
Another brilliant and simple solution. Thanx for sharing.
I’m pretty sure you just changed my life. Lol! I have a small “homeowner” size table saw, and now I’ll finally be able to rip larger stock! Thanks!!!
That's an awesome concept that I'm sure can be applied across a few different use cases. Thanks a bunch!
Nice tip! As a cabinet maker of 30 years (I now have saws that will cut this, but before...), I would have used a router, straight edge and clamps to do the same cut. For guys interested in woodworking, it's AMAZING, how many times you will use a GOOD track saw if you spend the money for one! Free hand cuts (odd shapes and angles) and live edge cuts are pretty much made SAFE, and it's EASY to make track jigs for a router or other equipment!
Yep. Router.
Thank you. That is great. Never think about the en side of the table saw and your idea is wonderful.
As usual, your videos are precise and well explained. Well done.
Thank you. These out of the box ideas help me to find alternative solutions for all sorts of situations.
Insanely useful tip! Would’ve never thought of this one. I’m always amazed at the tips you come up with and share. Definitely keeping this one in my back pocket
Definitely handy for using a smaller saw!
Did this with a tiny portable table saw and it worked! Thanks!
I have fought with trying to make cuts that tests the limits of my fence, and this is an interesting solution to that. I guess you could extend the table edge out, like this, as far as you needed to make this work with pretty wide cuts. Thanks!
Why would you extend the table out? Wouldn't you just move the wood piece on the bottom of the plywood?
Supporting more than a couple feet off the table pulls the panel up off of the blade. A roller stand or two works great for extending the table width
@@slimdout if you are worried about it pulling up off of the blade you can clamp a piece of scrap to the fence a little over the height of the material, and bring it in tight enough to the blade to hold the sheet down.
@@wesman7837 that carries its own risk of pinching the cut piece between fence and blade 🤷♂️
@@slimdout it could, but I have never seen it happen.
Have a DW744 older jobsite Table Saw. Rough piece cut with Circular Saw. Used your method to true up... Worked GREAT!!
Thanks much... I will remember this method!!
I'm so glad people are getting use out of this! I just used the same trick yesterday to cut the end off of piece a butcher block countertop. Worked perfect.
You can avoid some hassle by setting the table saw fence next to the blade, then lower the blade and just clamp the guide board to your sheet using your fence as a reference. And, Check for square! Great videos!
Yes so long as the edge of the plywood is already square and flat, whereas I believe he was saying his edge was wobbly.
I am not a lateral thinker .Would You have a diagram please ? ThankYou either way !
That cuts the task down dramatically! Thanks.
I think this video addresses the situation where the edge to be cut off is not straight enough to use as a reference.
You have more plywood hangover weight to deal with not practical work smarter not harder
Thanks! As usual, excellent advice.
The same scheme works for making rip cuts on a radial arm saw.
awesome idea. I will implement it tomorrow. Wish I new it earlier today but tomorrow will work. Thanks
Great tip. I have seen a few other jigs using the very straight and sturdy edge of the table - it is an overlooked feature. For me I use the track saw, then perhaps a router and trim bit. I just hate wrestling with a large heavy sheet…. But this is an excellent option without those.
Cool trick. Not one I have seen before and I thought that I had seen them all. My go to for this "issue" is straight edge, router and flush cut bit.
Nice one! This is a great method and a safe one for the large sheet goods. I used to work in a shop with a 52” fence and there still comes a time when you need to make that thin rip off the side of a long sheet. It’s no fun having over 4 ft of waste and a thin rip between the fence and the blade.
Awesome! Love it! Will definitely be using it but also that was a crosscut and I saw no to minimal tear-out which makes me ask what kind of blade you’re using. Dude that was flawless!
@@BusyDee WOW you have very pretty eyes!
Love the simplicity of the idea
Great demo, I've done this for the very same reasons you explained and it works awesome. Thanks for the demo.
I tried this today and it works! I used the Milescraft circular guide tracks as a straight edge and the T Track hold down clamps that it came with and got excellent results.
I think my favorite method of cleaning up an edge on a large piece is to use a trim router and set up a straight edge, and use a flush trim router bit.
That was my go to until I extended my fence rails out to allow for 60" cuts.
100% agree with this remark. I'm a Retired General Contractor. A router is so much easier and can be used in the field without a table saw. A couple of saw horses, a couple of clamps, a straight edge (I use an aluminum 10' 2 x 4 screed) and a router with the proper bit. Not only is it faster, safer and easier, you get a jointer quality edge every time. If a jointer edge is not needed try a Skil worm drive contractor's saw with the proper blade. Wobble has never been an issue with that kind of saw with me. Also with the proper set up on saw horses you can cut right across the top of the saw horses to easily cut plywood of any length, in any direction with proper support, 8' 12' any foot, no problem with perfect straight cuts.
@@Ron-no4tp Thank you Ron. I have also used this method to make fine adjustments to make doors fit, or shave off a bit from the top and bottom. I have some closet doors that I built that I need to reduce their length to make the guides fit a bit better. And so, when I have time, thats one more on my list to do. When I am doing 1 1/2 thick material, I will use the router and take off a bit more than half way through and then come back with a flush trim bit and get the other side.
@@Ron-no4tp I've been a contractor for 40 years, getting ready for retirement myself. I don't even own a big heavy shop table saw, it just takes up too much real estate in my shop.. I do have a 10" job site table saw that I use If I have many rips to do, I'll bring that to the job. But, honestly, I prefer cutting sheets of plywood with a good straight edge with some clamps and a good corded circular saw, good blade is all you need and good saw horses with 2x4s on top, will get that job done easily, and alone with no help. Struggling with a full 3/4" sheet of finished plywood solo on a table saw is a hassle. As a contractor, I try to travel light. But for guys that are working on a budget, or have limited space, you can get table saw quality cuts on a very small budget and put it all away in a small space. I see so many shop wood workers that don't have a good $120 circular saw but they have a $2000 table saw. I've made lots of Built ins in homes with nothing more than a circular saw, a miter saw, a portable table saw, Most of the time, I don't even need a router.
I've used both the table saw edge method as well as the router/flush trim bit/straightedge method for many years. They both work well but the router is much less awkward when the panel hangs over the table saw edge by a large amount - for example, when you're cross-cutting something close to a full sheet.
That just shows that an old dog can learn a new trick. Great video.
I like the style of the videos, going through what you're doing and why in detail. I think these are helpful for the more inexperienced, but you also hear comments saying "I've been doing this for 20 years and never though about that". Liked and subscribed.
This is absolutely brilliant my friend! Well done.
Smart my man. I've got a DeWalt tablesaw with a 36" rip capacity. And I've never used my fence that far out to make a cut. However, if my shop wasn't 80sq ft. I'm sure I would do bigger projects lol.. Anyhow all that to say, that's smart. Great idea. And I'll definitely keep that in my book of tricks for sure. So thank you.
Brilliant. I love my table saw but have found all too often, the table isn't long enough for so many cuts. I have used the trick with a circular saw and it works too, but love this 'hack' to extend the 'fence' on a table saw. Cheers.
Thank You I’d forgotten that trick. From long before the internet, jr. high school shop late 60’s
I miss the days before the internet. Even though it's how I make a living.
@@InspireWoodcraft the schools need to bring back industrial arts aka shop etc
There is a critical man power shortage in the trades
Yep. That works.
Back when we got to really learn. We had a wood shop and a small engine repair bench. I wish schools today still taught that.
Router jig with a flush trim router bit would leave a perfect edge may take 2-3 passes
Just getting used to ways to improve use on table saw, this is by far the simplest idea that I probably would not of thought of on my own, super cool dude, thanks.
Congrats on your channel. Just watched three of your videos on corner joint splines. They are, unarguably, the best three instructional table saw videos I have seen on YT. Simple, no bs, quick, informative. I hope more sponsors “pay” attention to you and more viewers find your channel. What you are teaching is indispensable. New follower. Cheers.
great instructional video very easy to follow and very easy to understand the reasons WHY
That is a great tip to share for those that did not know of it. Luckily for me, my father taught me that trick some 50 years ago and I have used it several times on my small capacity table saw. Since I bought a decent hand held circular saw I prefer to clamp a straight board on top of the stock piece to guide it if I can. My circular saw has no wobble like yours.
Wow! Glad I stayed until the end. I was confused for awhile there, thanks for the great tip!!
What about use a straight egde with 2 clamps and use a router with a template bit.Will come out sraight and square.
I love this idea. Thanks for being creative.
Good work, only suggestions would be to have support along the left edge if the amount hanging off the left exceeds the amount on the table and off the back edge. Second. Use a larger square. It will allow for greater accuracy and squarer cut
I would like to have seen him double check with the square from the other side once he got over there, but maybe he was just trying to use the factory edge. I would like to see a full size framing square for this.
Measuring from blade to table edge using a tape is far from ideal. Much better to use a metal rule, cost little more than tapes & you can' beat that accuracy.
@@wesman7837 All well and good so long as the reference edges are parallel.... and if the 'square' is actually square. Many are 'square if they could be'.
3 x 4 x 5 triangle geometry is better... don't you think?
Very nice trick and your presentation is excellent.
I tried this last week and it works great. It takes a little extra math, but I was able to make a good straight cut beyond the rip capacity of my jobsite table saw. In fact, it worked so well, that I thought the opposite end was straight, but ended up reversing the board and cutting the opposite end to get a nice square piece.
Very simple solution to a common problem, my hats off to you.
Good trick, i will definitely be using it. However, in this case, I would have just clamped a straight edge and used the router though, eliminates having to manhandle a large sheet and a potential wobble when cutting it.
Yeah it was more to show the technique. I think a lot of people tried watching without listening though, as per the norm. I will add though that for me it would take longer to setup the router than just to do this. But that's because my router is in the lift, so I would have to get it out, change the bit, and so on.
MUCH easier just to use a plane. Cleaning up timber is what is what they were specifically designed for.
Very clever. Thanks for sharing this nice trick.
Good idea, but by the time you did all that I would have just clamped a straight edge to the board and trimmed it off with my router or trimmer, especially if you where wanting to do the long edge. I don't a big slide table saw so I do this to my sheet before I start cutting anything.
Holy crumb! I love it! I only have a bosch jobsite saw and I have this problem constantly. Thanks for sharing this
If your miter gauge is parallel to your blade u could’ve measured from that and not limited to 8-9” measuring from your blade ,overcoming challenges is so much fun ,awesome job 😎
I've never forgotten something I heard as a kid... 1/8 out in a foot = 1 ft out in a 100 feet (96)
Stellar work, as usual brother. You’re videos are my go-to. Please keep up the excellent work.
This is how I've made cuts that were too wide for my table saw for years. When your fence only goes to the right 36", you have to improvise, adapt, and overcome.
Yea wow! That is a great idea for cutting a large sheet of plywood.
Thanks a lot.
Good trick. You could use double sided tape on the backside with a runner in the miter slot for the same cut. It probably wouldn't help much for cutting plywood perfectly in half length wise, but it would work for a 36 inch cut like this.
I think the increased distance of the edge of the table vs the miter slot gives more precision. And double-sided tape will have just enough torsion play that it would be easy to wiggle the hanging end of the plywood back and forth as you travel. The clamps seem to provide reliable stability to not have any torsional wiggle, as long as you maintain pressure towards the table edge
I made a simple jig for my circular saw like you showed. I use a corded saw and it works fine for cuts like this. Been using it for years for cutting door bottoms and plywood.
I have found that the best edge on plywood is made with a straight router bit.
I use a similar method on my radial arm saw to joint an edge or preserve a natural edge. I built the front table so that the front edge is perfectly parallel to the fence and clamp a straight edge in the same way that is shown in the video. This works best on wide boards using a narrow straight edge I position the carriage with as much of the board on the table as possible.
hinge a support board out from your front edge and hinge a board from that one to the floor . that way you can have full support of a plywood sheet
Good tip, short and sweet! If you have a lot of overhang, it helps to place a roller stand under that so you're not fighting that tendency to tip while you're pushing the sheet through the cut.
Another option is a straight edge and a router! Super clean cut on both edges and a perfect 90 degrees.
For cleaning up an edge, a router would be simpler and easier, especially with something heavier, like an MDF panel
Nice video!! I taught myself this trick several years ago. It comes in very handy from time to time.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Good one and perfect timing. I cut a large cedar slab at a 45 yesterday to make a waterfall table. I used a clamped straight edge as a guide and a battery saw, but something didn't work and my 2 45's didn't match up. I need to re-cut the 45's on the table saw. With this trick, I think I can do it. If not, ill go to my buddy at the local sawmill and let him cut them on his radial saw.
Thanks for the great tip.
For those without a large table saw. I use a BORA NGX 50” clamp edge, $49 and a 4.5” Porter Cable circular saw. The clamp can be set to any length and the over center cam lock secures the straight edge. A 4.5” saw is much easier to do this kind of cabinetry work. Wish my shop were as clean as yours.
Correct I have the BORA and love it, wish my table saw was that large
I've done this many times over the years. Good tip.
To be honest, I'm getting a little tired of bait that announces something is mind-blowing, crazy, genius, or whatever high drama will get clicks. This is a handy tip. But that's all. No wonder we've stopped trusting the world around us.
I've never seen this tip anywhere before and it's quite useful.
This guy makes a great video and now this guy doesn't trust the world. Wow. Just wow
At least he didn’t claim it “tastes better than Meat”.
Fish mad because he took the bait 🎣
Yes, What a useless waste of time. Some tricks are so obvious it's an insult to anyone's intelligence to actually take the time to make a video out of it. And here we are discussing it too. Click bait, and we fell for it.
oh this is super, I got couple hold down clamps make a jig so dont have to mess with hand clamps. love this
Two observations: 1) you could set up the same fence but closer to the cut line and use it for a fence for a router with a straight bit - of course this wouldn't work for breaking down sheet goods but it works great for cleaning up edges. 2) using a larger square for setting up the fence will provide even greater accuracy.
Also noticed the plywood sheet was not down hard on the table (7:02 time stamp), so he did not achieve the "squareness" he spoke about early in the video. The circular saw and clamped-on fence would've done just as well.
@@kennnva551 Either a circ-saw or a router. I'd go with router. Both ways have the advantage of not needing to catch the out-feed. If the plywood reaches its balance/tipping point, it's really difficult to keep aligned. And a router has no skid-plate to wobble.
Wow, that's a great one~!! Thanks for sharing it~!
Big fan of your channel. I am bit confused still why all the trouble or why it's less trouble I should say than the other methods but maybe I wasn't doing a good job listening. In this case looks like you just want to clean up that edge and have it square. Couldn't you clamp a straightedge to it square and then just run a flush trim router bit down it if you didn't want to circ saw it?
Yeah my thoughts exactly.
But you can use this method to do more than just cleaning up an edge. If you wanted to cut a thin strip off to then use, let's say.
And here I thought I had covered all the "you should have" comments. Haha! This is an old school method for panel break down. It works quite well for breaking down full sheets into cabinet-ready panels. The example I showed was because that is a common problem people run into and the table saw is right there to use. Plus it gives people another trick to use when they need it for something else, like panel break down.
@@InspireWoodcraft ha thanks for replying. I was asking to make sure I didn't miss anything, not from a place of "I know better" - definitely the opposite which was why I had to ask bc what did I miss? This definitely makes sense now on panel break up esp by passing the fence.
I just saw this today, and it was just in time. I had to break down a couple sheets on my little (26” wide table) table saw. It worked great!
The thing I would change, because I'm not strong enough to hold the plywood steady (and I'm really short) is to put a couple of rolling supports under the other end of the material. This is really cool.
I love clever diy tricks. This is brilliant! Have never seen this! You are the man!
Great technique which I have logged in my head for use in the future.
Great work. Definitely one for the database of cool things to use
brilliant. outside the box. I like it!