hi dave done loads of these. i just unbolt the splined bolts on the back about 1/3 of the way out and use a air hammer on the head of the bolts moving from side to side. Drices the hub out and works every time and as you get new bolts it doesnt matter if you bruise the the heads. Sorted
Thank you - this is a really informative video filled with detailed explanation at every stage. Based on your instructions I successfully changed the bearing on my 2009 Audi A4 - total time about 4 hours (don't laugh, I'm a software developer not a mechanic :-) ). I thought I'd share my experiences: - I removed the whole steering knuckle by detaching the upper control arms, the lower control arms and the steering tie rod end. I could then work with the whole assembly off the car. You need a balljoint splitter tool for this. - Reason - I couldn't get on board with the idea of using an air chisel on the hub mating surfaces (sorry!!) - looked like a recipe for damage. As you mentioned the possibility of the holes going oval, I guess as a result of this approach, I didn't fancy it. - With the assembly off the car it was fairly easy to drift out the hub and bearing from the knuckle using a large socket as a drift and by supporting the knuckle on two logs, and whacking the socket with a club hammer. No press required. - The outer race did indeed get stuck in the hub. I chose to use a Dremel tool fitted with a standard cut-off disc which cut through the outer race with suprising ease leaving the hub undamaged. - I froze the hub in the freezer, and cooked the new bearing at 100C in the oven and pressing it home was very easy in a normal bench vice again using a large socket as the drift. I didn't need a press at all. Thank you again
For anyone wanting to do this without a hydraulic press: I managed to drive the hub out by using the mounting bolts on the "burn". Put some thick plate between the burn and hub flanges, then drove 2 of the mounting bolts (the triple square ones) into it, being careful to turn them equal amounts to keep it square. Came out easy! For me, only one of the 2 hubs I did held onto the inner race. I cut a slot in it with a dremel then smacked it with a chisel and it broke, much easier than I was expecting. Fitting the new one between the jaws of a vice with some plate over the face of the bearing was easy. Overall, far less force required than I was expecting. All went very smoothly. No issues with the ABS sensor. Thanks for the video, Dave. Some useful tips.
Excellent tutorial. I like the use of the bake disc on the hydraulic press. I did however decide to remove the bearing housing and used a press to remove the bearing with hub attached.
2:13 was possibly the most satisfying thing I've seen. As someone who has a battery-powered impact wrench, this was epic! Made light work of the thing!
Thanks very much for this video. I have been looking for the hub and bearing assembly for my A7 but have only found the bearing. Your tips are great in guiding me to do it myself. Thanks again, well made video with real and actual tips and methods. Perfect.
Very helpful, Dave! Thank you for taking the time to create. The stretch bolts explanation was insightful. I've seen another vid where all the bolts were reused. Not a good idea I now understand.
What a bloody great video. Doing this same job tomorrow for a friend. Luckily I have a press, just got to find the right socket to press the new bearing in.
So weird hearing your own accent! Give it a Blatter 👍 Top video fella. Have one of these to do at the weekend and as they say "forewarned is forearmed".
Have done a few of these in the last 12 months , first one got the bearing from main agents , came with flange on , second one from main agents , no flange , stepped bearings different sizes inner and outer , bolts made of cheese holding bearing on , don't mind doing them but you sure feel like your gonna snap the centre hub boot when final tightening , scarey, great video Dave as usual , cheers
@@davesterl that's the one , when the second one came I said I had one last month from them , TPS , and it had flange on, box was open , dirty paw prints on it , what we love in our job they said there was stock in Manchester branch 12 miles away , I drove there and exactly the same , no flange now , was a 2017 Q7 , but the guy didn't want to take it in for warranty repair , rather pay he said even paid me to go for the one from Manchester branch 🇬🇧🇬🇧👍
When it comes with the flange does that mean the same as when people mention “pre-assembled”? So you don’t have to use a press for the bearings? I need to do the job on my a7 and noticed on eurocarparts they have one that comes with the flange
Great video Dave, crazy they use triple square like that, here they’d be rusted in permanent I’m suprised not there. You’re a better man than me 5lb Hammer I use to slug that huh out of the socket lol. Thanks for sharing it was interesting to see.
Those torque values in the comments would help! Regardless, I'm totally happy so thanks for the video! Couldn't get my press to work, so I had to take it into a shop. I'm seriously considering a hydraulic puller since this isn't the first time I could've used it against the upright or bearing support arm.
3:00 I got as far as the m12 bolts but I just couldn't get any of them to budge! I'm worried I'll shear the bolt heads at this stage. I'm going to try again with a blow torch next time! Love the a4 videos. Nice to hear a local accent 😉 I f you want to make a video on removing stubborn bolts on an audi a4 then hit me up and I'll drive to your garage lol
Great work Dave, my GTI front axels are the same, I struggled with the 180 degrees as well, ended up using the jack handle on a half inch breaker, had about 8 foot of leverage and still couldn't get the 180 done...lol
Great video Dave, and spot on with all the details. The only part in question is with regards to torque value/method on the final 19mm hex center bolt. I know it’s stated in the manual to torque to 200Nm plus 180 deg, however it still doesn’t make sense. I suspect it was an error in translation from German to English, as I’ve read elsewhere where you toque it to 200Nm, back it off 180 deg, then retorque to 50Nm plus 60 deg. This to me seems much more logical. If you over torque it, you could overload the bearing making it difficult to rotate and ultimately leading to early failure.
50nm plus 60 degree is not for this type of bearing, not even close for the bearing in the video. The centres are touching together so you are not overloading the races therefore it makes perfect sense
My 2015 Audi A7 with 111k miles is in need of this replacement because my mechanic advised..I drive the car at highway about after 60mph I notice the feeling in the way the car grinding.. I expect to just change both-fronts..hopefully it’s $500-$600 for the job.
Thanks bro. Finally a thorough review unlike the other morons that cut the important part or show you the older cars. I am using new hubs and bearings though.
Did the bearing on the other halves a3 (8v7) and i got to about the same degree of turn as you did so im glad im not the only one, have thought about using my impact gun next time to get the full 180 but don't see anyone doing that so assuming its not recommended?
funny you put this vid up ive been looking for a new toque wench over the past few days . still cant decide wot one to get . teng are looking good at the min
Right Dave where are you based because my Audi A6 needs 2 front wheel bearings and all of the control arms replaced and after watching your professionalism I would be willing to travel to you for you to do this work for me .
@@davesterl sorry if I came across rude . It’s hard to find a mechanic these days who does the job properly and after watching your attention to detail I’m really impressed with the way you do things . If you would be willing to work on my car I would be willing to travel to have you complete the repairs that need to be done. And obviously pay you for the pleasure and I would also be willing to get my hands dirty alongside you. I would try to tackle it myself if I had the tools but I’m to scared of that pinch bolt and i can’t justify buying a press for the sake of 2 wheel bearings.
@@rainbowlightwarrior8395 you want to help as well? No decent, self-respecting garage will entertain that. Definitely not and you're still being rude btw. You need to work on your phrasing
Was your Bering carrier arm chewed up mine was and they said I need a new one but it don’t look that bad the cv axel just rubbed it a little because of the wheel Bering
What size 'hub splitter' is required. Most I can find online say either 30-50mm or 50-75mm (I'm assuming that is the max outer bearing race diameter) Would you know if 75 mm is large enough? Thanks for the video. I did mine a while ago and cut/chiseled the race off but next time I would prefer using your method
Yep Dave's right, 12 months ago Audi sold them with flange complete , no more , just a bearing , you have to swap your old flange over or buy a new flange and press it in to the new bearing
I've ordered the pre assembled bearing/hub for my 2015 A6 Quattro. Same one fits all 4 corners. Very hard to find. It's all bearing only, amazon.de and Febest.eu have some for the A6, Ridex have an unassembled kit. I don't have a press, so complete hub will do the job quicker. I can play with the old, if I manage to split it and crack the inner bearing casing off without a press as described in earlier post, I'll have a spare hub for possible future use.
Find the items that are used on the Dave Sterl channel in the Amazon shop.
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/davesterl
Hi,what number allen key? 18,?? Thnks
hi dave done loads of these. i just unbolt the splined bolts on the back about 1/3 of the way out and use a air hammer on the head of the bolts moving from side to side. Drices the hub out and works every time and as you get new bolts it doesnt matter if you bruise the the heads. Sorted
great tip, maybe give that a go next time
Thank you for this comment! This method solved it for me with just a small simple hammer. And of course a big thank you to Dave sterl for this video!
This is genius about to do a bearing on a 2013 a4
For those wondering the bolt size you want for the draw bolt is M16x1.5x80mm
Thank you - this is a really informative video filled with detailed explanation at every stage. Based on your instructions I successfully changed the bearing on my 2009 Audi A4 - total time about 4 hours (don't laugh, I'm a software developer not a mechanic :-) ).
I thought I'd share my experiences:
- I removed the whole steering knuckle by detaching the upper control arms, the lower control arms and the steering tie rod end. I could then work with the whole assembly off the car. You need a balljoint splitter tool for this.
- Reason - I couldn't get on board with the idea of using an air chisel on the hub mating surfaces (sorry!!) - looked like a recipe for damage. As you mentioned the possibility of the holes going oval, I guess as a result of this approach, I didn't fancy it.
- With the assembly off the car it was fairly easy to drift out the hub and bearing from the knuckle using a large socket as a drift and by supporting the knuckle on two logs, and whacking the socket with a club hammer. No press required.
- The outer race did indeed get stuck in the hub. I chose to use a Dremel tool fitted with a standard cut-off disc which cut through the outer race with suprising ease leaving the hub undamaged.
- I froze the hub in the freezer, and cooked the new bearing at 100C in the oven and pressing it home was very easy in a normal bench vice again using a large socket as the drift. I didn't need a press at all.
Thank you again
For anyone wanting to do this without a hydraulic press:
I managed to drive the hub out by using the mounting bolts on the "burn". Put some thick plate between the burn and hub flanges, then drove 2 of the mounting bolts (the triple square ones) into it, being careful to turn them equal amounts to keep it square. Came out easy!
For me, only one of the 2 hubs I did held onto the inner race. I cut a slot in it with a dremel then smacked it with a chisel and it broke, much easier than I was expecting.
Fitting the new one between the jaws of a vice with some plate over the face of the bearing was easy.
Overall, far less force required than I was expecting. All went very smoothly. No issues with the ABS sensor.
Thanks for the video, Dave. Some useful tips.
What is 'on the burn'
@@davesterl lol, because of your accent Bearing sounds like Burn
Excellent tutorial. I like the use of the bake disc on the hydraulic press. I did however decide to remove the bearing housing and used a press to remove the bearing with hub attached.
2:13 was possibly the most satisfying thing I've seen. As someone who has a battery-powered impact wrench, this was epic! Made light work of the thing!
He pre loosened it 😂
Very imformative Dave. No short cuts and good workmanship. I feel more confident now to tackle this job. Cheers
Great video just done the bearing in my 09 A6 hard graft had it done in my head before starting the job.
Probably one of the best vids out there.
Thanks very much for this video. I have been looking for the hub and bearing assembly for my A7 but have only found the bearing. Your tips are great in guiding me to do it myself. Thanks again, well made video with real and actual tips and methods. Perfect.
No problem 👍
Hey, any luck finding the assembly? Need to do the same for my a7 😅
Very helpful, Dave! Thank you for taking the time to create. The stretch bolts explanation was insightful. I've seen another vid where all the bolts were reused. Not a good idea I now understand.
Crazy all your tips you put in this video I did almost instinctively on this job. Thanks for the confirmation good content !
Having the front left replaced this week on my A5 . Fascinating how much work is involved. Mines only done 87000.
please keep these great demos coming many thanks
What a bloody great video. Doing this same job tomorrow for a friend. Luckily I have a press, just got to find the right socket to press the new bearing in.
Cheers Aaron
As always mate very informative vid specially the explanation about torquing up keeps the two bearing parts together ... many thanks 👍
cheers igor
Thanks for this. It gave me some good ideas to tackle the job with what I have on hand.
You are highly skilled. Thank you for sharing the knowledge.
I appreciate that!
So weird hearing your own accent! Give it a Blatter 👍 Top video fella. Have one of these to do at the weekend and as they say "forewarned is forearmed".
Ats Us Nai
Earned a sub for that brilliant accent alone bud, top video as well 👍🇬🇧
great demo best ive seen
Thanks Dave!!! Very informative indeed. :)
Have done a few of these in the last 12 months , first one got the bearing from main agents , came with flange on , second one from main agents , no flange , stepped bearings different sizes inner and outer , bolts made of cheese holding bearing on , don't mind doing them but you sure feel like your gonna snap the centre hub boot when final tightening , scarey, great video Dave as usual , cheers
yeah mike TPS no flange
@@davesterl that's the one , when the second one came I said I had one last month from them , TPS , and it had flange on, box was open , dirty paw prints on it , what we love in our job they said there was stock in Manchester branch 12 miles away , I drove there and exactly the same , no flange now , was a 2017 Q7 , but the guy didn't want to take it in for warranty repair , rather pay he said even paid me to go for the one from Manchester branch 🇬🇧🇬🇧👍
When it comes with the flange does that mean the same as when people mention “pre-assembled”? So you don’t have to use a press for the bearings?
I need to do the job on my a7 and noticed on eurocarparts they have one that comes with the flange
Great job Dave, nice bit of slow motion action there.
cheers mate
By far the best tutorial i have a 13 a6 i have to change bearrings🙄 thank you! New sub!
Awesome! Thank you!
"Just like that"...Tommy Cooper style. Nice work Dave, lots of great details tucked in making it well worth watching! Cheers Pal
Looks easy on the vid ian, oh the power of editing
Awesome detail thanks
Great video Dave, crazy they use triple square like that, here they’d be rusted in permanent I’m suprised not there. You’re a better man than me 5lb Hammer I use to slug that huh out of the socket lol. Thanks for sharing it was interesting to see.
Glad u liked it jay. Yes you need to be sure your on those triple square heads good. Cheers dave
Those torque values in the comments would help! Regardless, I'm totally happy so thanks for the video! Couldn't get my press to work, so I had to take it into a shop. I'm seriously considering a hydraulic puller since this isn't the first time I could've used it against the upright or bearing support arm.
Good Job 👍.
3:00 I got as far as the m12 bolts but I just couldn't get any of them to budge! I'm worried I'll shear the bolt heads at this stage. I'm going to try again with a blow torch next time! Love the a4 videos. Nice to hear a local accent 😉 I
f you want to make a video on removing stubborn bolts on an audi a4 then hit me up and I'll drive to your garage lol
Great work Dave, my GTI front axels are the same, I struggled with the 180 degrees as well, ended up using the jack handle on a half inch breaker, had about 8 foot of leverage and still couldn't get the 180 done...lol
yeah Johnny, you never achieve the full 180
Great video Dave, and spot on with all the details. The only part in question is with regards to torque value/method on the final 19mm hex center bolt. I know it’s stated in the manual to torque to 200Nm plus 180 deg, however it still doesn’t make sense. I suspect it was an error in translation from German to English, as I’ve read elsewhere where you toque it to 200Nm, back it off 180 deg, then retorque to 50Nm plus 60 deg. This to me seems much more logical. If you over torque it, you could overload the bearing making it difficult to rotate and ultimately leading to early failure.
50nm plus 60 degree is not for this type of bearing, not even close for the bearing in the video. The centres are touching together so you are not overloading the races therefore it makes perfect sense
You had your porridge that mourning Dave lol. some squeeze on them well done
cheers ian
Thank you Dave well done
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
My 2015 Audi A7 with 111k miles is in need of this replacement because my mechanic advised..I drive the car at highway about after 60mph I notice the feeling in the way the car grinding.. I expect to just change both-fronts..hopefully it’s $500-$600 for the job.
I hope you replaced all of the wheel bearings. Not a good idea to replace one axle only, uneven wear will cause you more headache in the long run
Is it OK to damage on nuckle arm surface? While you removing hub bearing from nuckle arm, it looks like heavily damaged by impact machine..
I wouldn't let him touch my car
Had a go at this, but couldn't get the drive shaft out far enough to be able to get the M12 splines in so gave up. Really frustrating
Thanks bro. Finally a thorough review unlike the other morons that cut the important part or show you the older cars. I am using new hubs and bearings though.
No bother, mate
On the 4 bolts did you say 80nm +80 degres?
Cheers mate 👍🏻 helped me out a lot 👌🏻
Regards from Glasgow 👍🏻
I see that I’ll be buying the hub to go with the bearing…
Did the bearing on the other halves a3 (8v7) and i got to about the same degree of turn as you did so im glad im not the only one, have thought about using my impact gun next time to get the full 180 but don't see anyone doing that so assuming its not recommended?
Hey Dave just wondering what direction in N.I you are in. I need a new mechanic and I like the care you put into your work.
soory mate, im no longer open to the public
@@davesterl no worries cheers
funny you put this vid up ive been looking for a new toque wench over the past few days . still cant decide wot one to get . teng are looking good at the min
I like Teng stuff Simon, thats a Sealey im using there
@@davesterl I like the angle gauge on the teng on.
Right Dave where are you based because my Audi A6 needs 2 front wheel bearings and all of the control arms replaced and after watching your professionalism I would be willing to travel to you for you to do this work for me .
The question should be, would i be willing to work for you.
@@davesterl sorry if I came across rude . It’s hard to find a mechanic these days who does the job properly and after watching your attention to detail I’m really impressed with the way you do things . If you would be willing to work on my car I would be willing to travel to have you complete the repairs that need to be done. And obviously pay you for the pleasure and I would also be willing to get my hands dirty alongside you. I would try to tackle it myself if I had the tools but I’m to scared of that pinch bolt and i can’t justify buying a press for the sake of 2 wheel bearings.
@@rainbowlightwarrior8395 you want to help as well? No decent, self-respecting garage will entertain that. Definitely not and you're still being rude btw. You need to work on your phrasing
What size is the lug nut holding the front Axel
my one of the 4 bolt damaged cant be open with m12 or any other thing, is there anything else i can try to open it?
Was your Bering carrier arm chewed up mine was and they said I need a new one but it don’t look that bad the cv axel just rubbed it a little because of the wheel Bering
Are the fronts a 19mm or 15mm opening on the bearing
What size 'hub splitter' is required.
Most I can find online say either 30-50mm or 50-75mm (I'm assuming that is the max outer bearing race diameter)
Would you know if 75 mm is large enough?
Thanks for the video.
I did mine a while ago and cut/chiseled the race off but next time I would prefer using your method
Could have put the bolts back in, but not fully and give them a wack with the hammer. Would have popped the bearing housing out
Are you speaking from experience? Have you tried that? Because i have and it's a waste of time with an aluminium housing
@@davesterl Yes, I've tried it. Worked for me but maybe my bearing was not as badly corroded. Tried it on 2010 Audi A3
Could you put the 180° on with an impact? (Having torqued to the 200 first)
Can you give us the tool list plz
Absolutely not, if you need a tool list you should not tackle this job
Anyone else hearing burn instead of bearing?
Aye me, it's an accent
If he said bearing the video would have been 5 minutes longer. It was great
Big Like!!!
Big thanks
Is that 80 nm and 280 nm just the accent is very strong cheers
Where do you buy the full hub built up bud
I thought you could buy a new bearing complete with the drive flange save pressing it off Dave?
seem to be coming with no flange now, martin
Yep Dave's right, 12 months ago Audi sold them with flange complete , no more , just a bearing , you have to swap your old flange over or buy a new flange and press it in to the new bearing
Your Hub condition was ok? just changing bearing is enough?
In this case the hub was fine, normally are ok
Hi Dave what was the n/m of the 4 stretch bolts please, was it 80n/m ?
80nm plus 90 degrees
its not a 18mm its a 19. Do not use a 18mm
Whatever fits. Whatever i used fitted on this one.
its 200 Nmw and 90 dregres and 135 degres its too ...its dansgerous
that's the manufacturers spec
@@davesterl no sorry its Not correct
whatever you say bud. I can confirm ElsaWin and Autodata both show 200NM + 180 degrees. You do whatever suits you
@@davesterl 180 😂😂crazy men, on your vidéo you Block at 135 degrés and no 180 Just for your information
@@audia4addict950 yes i know what is in my own video. I explain in the commentary the spec is 180 but is unachievable
Man do u need to shout
Don't like it, don't watch it. Dead simple
Good video. However, this could have been a 15 minutes video and be as helpful. Very wordy to say the least.
Are you entitled to what you want?
@@davesterl Yes.
I've ordered the pre assembled bearing/hub for my 2015 A6 Quattro. Same one fits all 4 corners. Very hard to find. It's all bearing only, amazon.de and Febest.eu have some for the A6, Ridex have an unassembled kit. I don't have a press, so complete hub will do the job quicker. I can play with the old, if I manage to split it and crack the inner bearing casing off without a press as described in earlier post, I'll have a spare hub for possible future use.