Thanks for the great video, just one small thing I noticed. I own a set of these and I'm pretty sure the brake shaft is M10, not M8. Simjack's shop sells replacement elastomers with an internal diameter of 10.5 mm to fit the Pro brake. The M8 one's they sell are for their other products, like their handbrake.
Right, M10 for the Pros, M8 for the Minis. Unfortunate that Hawkeng only has 1 hardness for M10 (ie. 85A) in Amazon. One also suggested we can also replace the long spring with the shorter/white spring from the T-LCM (for those that have it).
The same way you can increase the resistance on the clutch, you can decrease the resistance on the throttle. Just move the bolt where the rod bearing is attached to the lowest position in the slot. You can do that and put the shock back in.
I have a set and adjusted the brake travel with the orange bump stop by moving it slightly forward. Then you increased the feel by turning in the adjustment screw on the rod. No elastomers required
Hawkeng is the brand name you want to look for when sourcing the elastomers. They come in a huge variety of Shore A values (stiffness) and from what I've heard can turn these pedals onto ones way out of their price range for all of $15 CAD. I'm on the verge of ordering a set of these to upgrade my T3PA's and I feel like they should last me a good long time. Nothing else in this price range at all, even remotely close, for the quality.
I've been considering these for about three years now. Finally seeing them get reviews from both reputable people such as yourself, but also obscure reviewers that go into the more tech side of things has made me much more keen on hitting that purchase button. Could you recommend them without the hydraulic rods? Is there any way you can share which hydraulic rods are included? I've seen a qr code and that they're rated at 100n/10kg or something. The price for four rods for furniture at the same spec seems to be about 20 eur, whereas the seller wants upwards of 80 eur for 3.
Please note you do not need DIView at all. Just calibrate using the Windows controller calibration and set the dead-zones in the sim. You only need to do this once.
Great video as always looking at buying these now 👍🏻 BTW use silicone spray rather than dw40 for stuff as dw40 leaves marks and dries leaving it squeaky again .
I don't believe those 3DRap elastomers will fit since they state they're for the SimJack Mini pedals, and those apparently have an M8 brake shaft. The SimJack Pros actually have an M10 brake shaft (see pinned comment).
I just received mine yesterday and they came as requested. In the comment section of my order I requested a pair of progressive with M10 ID and printed in black and had them in 5 days to Canada.@@c4ptainscarl3t
Great video! I’ve been anticipating this follow up. One question before I pull the trigger to upgrade from my Fanatec Clubsport v3’s. Where would you place these (after upgrades and tuning) in the hierarchy of pedal sets as far as feel. Are they at/above the Sprints (minus build quality differences) and the VRS’s or still closer to Moza and Fanatec? Can’t wait for the full review
I would still have them below the Sprints. The Sprints are still the best set of pedals I own. They’ve been bulletproof and consistent as the sunrise for me for years. And the tuning software is a big plus. But I would say these are as good or perhaps slightly better than all other pedals I own. The Elite V2s and the v3 inverted pedals are right there on feel and you’d be fine with any of them. And the VRS pedals are somewhat unknown to me. I only spent a few hours on them at the Rennsport Summit last year. So I don’t feel comfortable rating them
@@SIMRIG412 ypu clearly haven't been following these pedals.. the simjack UT and their competitors that make the almost identical simmson pedals are generally considered the best value pedals on the market. the price is due to how cheap it is to manufacture in china directly
Girro Sim sells a set of pedals that are like these. They cost double the price of these but has much better build quality, and they offer elastomers to tune its beake pedal. Plus I think the loadcell Girro Sim uses is rated at 200kg. Both sets need to use DIview or DXTweak for calibration. Between the SJ Pro pedals and Girro Sim's XR Pro pedals, I'm going with the XR's instead. These are too cost cut for my liking.
If your going to bearing mod, If you use two 6 i.d 8 o.d bearing sleeves you can use 8x14 flanged bearings without a need for any 1mm shim or having any slop between the bearing and hardware. Just use a bolt and nut and an extra bearing when pressing the sleeves into the bearings until the sleeve is even in the bearing and it should be 1 mm sticking out both sides. No need to fumble around with washers.
Thanks a lot for these! I really wanted to hear your opinion about the Sim Jack Pedals. It might be the budget option I can take if Heusinkveld is too expensive for me.
I own fanatec v3 pedal do you think sim jack pro is better? I'm having all the damper kit and performance kit install, if I move to sim Jack Pro is I'm going to see improvement or should I just stick to what I have
Quick question: I notice that you are using the HE Sprint baseplate. The Sim Jack Pros are too long, so you would have to screw in only the front two screws. Does that make any wobble/play on the pedals? Also, does the HE baseplate hold the pedals enough to eliminate any flex once mounted?
You have a great eye! You are correct. My Simjack baseplate arrives next week. Thankfully I haven’t noticed any play in the pedals front to back when I only use two bolts per pedal
Just got mine. They now come with green (they say on the website its 80HA) elastomers if you want a harder feeling pedal. I replaced the preload spring with 4 of those green elastomers and life is great.
Adjust the tension on the throttle using the slot just like the clutch. That way you can put the damper back on. 13:20 you didn't redo the mid for your throttle after you were tweaking the values.
Right on sir, this is very informative. Looking for a new set of pedals for sure. And for the price I can't beat these, for the squeaking noise have you ever tried a dry molybdenum disulfide lubricant. Just not fond of spray lubes around electric components.
Yes, unless you're certain about the electrical situation with lubricants, best to be safe. I always have electrical grade lithium grease for that purpose.
Whats up brother, very informative video. My question is which set of pedals to get, the sim jack pros(post mod) or the simforge mark 1's you reviewed?
Great video Mike. Would be cool if these would work with the Fanatec DD Pro on consoles. I'm going to pull the string on a DD wheel base and 2 wheels to run with my PS5 and Xbox Series X this fall and trying to figure out what pedals to pair with this set up. God bless and race on 🏁
Do you feel you have been able to get these to be as good or better than the Heusinkveld Sprints? I am curious cause I have the Sprints myself and been thinking about getting another set of pedals as back up. Would love some feedback if you don't mind.
@@ag7891 thank you! All told, I would stick with the v3 pedals. There are some mechanical and tuning advantages of these pedals, but the v3s are great and it wouldn’t be a huge step up for you.
Thanks for the great video, do you think that the hydraulic dampers make sense? With the dampers kit, do they also include regular rods? because I'm sure undecided between having those dampers or not
I think I’ll pick the bundle with 2 gas dampers, or 1 (not 3 because as I suspected it isn’t very useful on the gas pedal, since the real ones never have any damping feel on it). Is it useful on the clutch, does it actually improve the feeling?
dampers are regarded by many as best on the throttle, providing a smoother, more analogue feeling , (sim racing garage review of VNM pedals touches on this)
Hey Mike, great video, have been considering these for a while now. Wondering if the simjack pedals would possibly connect with the Heusinkveld controller?
Thanks so much. I don’t think it would connect to the Heusinkveld pedal software. There is a read/write system within the Heusinkveld software that I believe would be incompatible with Simjack. I’m not too tech-savvy when it comes to software, but I believe there would need to be a digital handshake between the software and hardware for the level of integration that the Heusinkveld software offers
@@andrewduff9822 i bought the Heusinkveld Ultimate Upgrade Kit and changed to its elastomers as well as connecting the SimJack pedals to the HV controller box. Now i can fine tune response curves, profiles etc. with the HV software and every game thinks HVs are connected.
Hey Mike! Guess what? I found out how to drive around on the historic town streets on 1971 nord layout. I posted a video showing how to get out of bounds on it, and i finally had a chance to do some exploring and and I found the city streets. I have a video showing me driving around. No glitching ro modding. Just clipping through a ambulance. I almost think it's an intentional easter egg. Pretty sure it is. I can show you how to get there. I am uploading another video. I was recording while exploring.
Is it worth buying this aliexpress pedals? Simjack, simsonn and the other two brands that i don't remember? I want to go better then csl pedals and I think is my next step but are they good in the long run?
Great review. Im coming from tlcm with elastomer mods. Seriously considering these given the price to performence. Ive read some calibration dificulties in iracing. Any validity to those claims? My main sim is iracing and if it works well there im sold.
I have a set and drive iracing I have had no issues in calibration in iracing. On a sidenote you can also make tweaks in the joycalib file in iracing as well
@@MicroGBY I think this would vary depending on the user. The T-LCMs are very “safe” and neutral feeling out of the box, whereas I’d probably categorize the Simjack pedals as harsh. The Simjack throttle is heavy, the brake is spongey and the clutch is arguably too light. So I think the T-LCM pedals are more likely to make more people happy than the Simjacks, but out of the box I’d imagine the Simjacks are going to feel excellent to a smaller group of users
@@SimRacing604I just ordered a set of these with the dampeners, currently have the pedals from the moza r5 combo, out of the box do you think im going to be happy with them or need to do a bunch of modding to get them feeling better as well? I had to stiffen up the brake on the moza pedals as it was far to light. Thanks.
You should’ve got the Simsonn racing set better finish , nowhere near the slop of bearings pedals side movement comes with springs and elastomers all for less than the cost of these Impaid $370 aud, for mine that included 10% tax so take 34 off that is $340 aus or $225 usd . The best thing is they come with proper calibration software no joy con or Di, and stuffing around doing maths and experimenting , deadband sliders and normal set-up procedures, graphs, etc so you can do curved gain instead of linear if needed with five datum points on graph to set curve as per name brands . I love your videos, Mike can send you a copy of the calibration software if you want !
Would you choose these or CSL Elite v2? I currently own Clubsport v3 Inverted and was thinking of "sidegrading" to CSL elite v2 but these also caught my eye since I'm looking for something around 300 euros. Started getting pain in my knees from Clubsport due to inability to change the position of the brake, my legs always feel cramped. Also would love to go back to simracing in socks. With Clubsport that was almost impossible, especially longer stints. CSL elite v2 seems perfect for my needs in that sense, however I do like a throttle with a nice resistance so that's why I'm kinda undecided now.
It’s very close. I like the clean, ready-to-go nature of the CSL Elite V2s. Those are great pedals at a great price. But the Simjack pedals have a level of customization and realism that the Elites can’t match. If you don’t mind tuning and customizing, I’d probably lean toward the Simjacks. If plug and play is more your speed, the Elite V2 is definitely my recommendation
The pedal travel should be there on all pedals and be able to tune it out. I get racers wanting on/off switches for pedals to be fast but personally I like realism so to have options when setting them up is good.
Why is everyone looking to have no break travel like race cars and road cars have at least 2 inches of travel on all pedals sim racers are a weird species
![SIMSONN Pro Pedals [REVIEW] My new favourite budget racing pedals!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZPUvVQ_qq0g/mqdefault.jpg)
![SIMSONN Pro Pedals [REVIEW] My new favourite budget racing pedals!](/img/tr.png)
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the great video, just one small thing I noticed.
I own a set of these and I'm pretty sure the brake shaft is M10, not M8.
Simjack's shop sells replacement elastomers with an internal diameter of 10.5 mm to fit the Pro brake.
The M8 one's they sell are for their other products, like their handbrake.
Oh, thank you so much for the note! I’ll pin this comment. Much appreciated!
Can confirm, I ordered M8 elastomers and they definitely don’t fit.
Right, M10 for the Pros, M8 for the Minis. Unfortunate that Hawkeng only has 1 hardness for M10 (ie. 85A) in Amazon. One also suggested we can also replace the long spring with the shorter/white spring from the T-LCM (for those that have it).
@@jgloc25 red spring works also
@@Bbarrow79 red spring from?
The same way you can increase the resistance on the clutch, you can decrease the resistance on the throttle. Just move the bolt where the rod bearing is attached to the lowest position in the slot. You can do that and put the shock back in.
I have a set and adjusted the brake travel with the orange bump stop by moving it slightly forward. Then you increased the feel by turning in the adjustment screw on the rod. No elastomers required
Hawkeng is the brand name you want to look for when sourcing the elastomers. They come in a huge variety of Shore A values (stiffness) and from what I've heard can turn these pedals onto ones way out of their price range for all of $15 CAD.
I'm on the verge of ordering a set of these to upgrade my T3PA's and I feel like they should last me a good long time.
Nothing else in this price range at all, even remotely close, for the quality.
do you have a link for the elastomers?
@@KnowerofThings buy venom HPF skateboard bushings from any skate shop or online. they come in shore ratings from 73 - about 100
I've been considering these for about three years now. Finally seeing them get reviews from both reputable people such as yourself, but also obscure reviewers that go into the more tech side of things has made me much more keen on hitting that purchase button. Could you recommend them without the hydraulic rods? Is there any way you can share which hydraulic rods are included? I've seen a qr code and that they're rated at 100n/10kg or something. The price for four rods for furniture at the same spec seems to be about 20 eur, whereas the seller wants upwards of 80 eur for 3.
That’s correct, they are marked as 100N
Please note you do not need DIView at all. Just calibrate using the Windows controller calibration and set the dead-zones in the sim. You only need to do this once.
Great video as always looking at buying these now 👍🏻 BTW use silicone spray rather than dw40 for stuff as dw40 leaves marks and dries leaving it squeaky again .
Get skateboard truck bushings around 93 shore and swap out the spring
You can always drill the bushing to 10mm for easier fit.
3DRap has replacement elastomers for SimJack Pro pedals with different grades such as progressive, hard etc.
I don't believe those 3DRap elastomers will fit since they state they're for the SimJack Mini pedals, and those apparently have an M8 brake shaft.
The SimJack Pros actually have an M10 brake shaft (see pinned comment).
I just received mine yesterday and they came as requested. In the comment section of my order I requested a pair of progressive with M10 ID and printed in black and had them in 5 days to Canada.@@c4ptainscarl3t
Great video! I’ve been anticipating this follow up. One question before I pull the trigger to upgrade from my Fanatec Clubsport v3’s. Where would you place these (after upgrades and tuning) in the hierarchy of pedal sets as far as feel. Are they at/above the Sprints (minus build quality differences) and the VRS’s or still closer to Moza and Fanatec? Can’t wait for the full review
I would still have them below the Sprints. The Sprints are still the best set of pedals I own. They’ve been bulletproof and consistent as the sunrise for me for years. And the tuning software is a big plus. But I would say these are as good or perhaps slightly better than all other pedals I own. The Elite V2s and the v3 inverted pedals are right there on feel and you’d be fine with any of them. And the VRS pedals are somewhat unknown to me. I only spent a few hours on them at the Rennsport Summit last year. So I don’t feel comfortable rating them
We are always looking for better pedals at a better price. Sim racing can be an expensive hobby.
Exactly right! I think these pedals may be a solid option for many people
Ya but buying low end junk like these doesn’t help just because they’re cheap!
@SIMRIG412 They're not cheap or junk, they're spectacular. Durable, well-built, great performance. Simsonn and Simjack pedals are crazy value.
@@SIMRIG412 ypu clearly haven't been following these pedals.. the simjack UT and their competitors that make the almost identical simmson pedals are generally considered the best value pedals on the market. the price is due to how cheap it is to manufacture in china directly
Girro Sim sells a set of pedals that are like these. They cost double the price of these but has much better build quality, and they offer elastomers to tune its beake pedal. Plus I think the loadcell Girro Sim uses is rated at 200kg. Both sets need to use DIview or DXTweak for calibration. Between the SJ Pro pedals and Girro Sim's XR Pro pedals, I'm going with the XR's instead. These are too cost cut for my liking.
Thanks for doing this, very interesting! Are they loud? Compared to the Heusinkveld Sprint for example?
If your going to bearing mod,
If you use two 6 i.d 8 o.d bearing sleeves you can use 8x14 flanged bearings without a need for any 1mm shim or having any slop between the bearing and hardware. Just use a bolt and nut and an extra bearing when pressing the sleeves into the bearings until the sleeve is even in the bearing and it should be 1 mm sticking out both sides. No need to fumble around with washers.
Thanks a lot for these! I really wanted to hear your opinion about the Sim Jack Pedals. It might be the budget option I can take if Heusinkveld is too expensive for me.
I own fanatec v3 pedal do you think sim jack pro is better? I'm having all the damper kit and performance kit install, if I move to sim Jack Pro is I'm going to see improvement or should I just stick to what I have
Quick question: I notice that you are using the HE Sprint baseplate. The Sim Jack Pros are too long, so you would have to screw in only the front two screws. Does that make any wobble/play on the pedals? Also, does the HE baseplate hold the pedals enough to eliminate any flex once mounted?
You have a great eye! You are correct. My Simjack baseplate arrives next week. Thankfully I haven’t noticed any play in the pedals front to back when I only use two bolts per pedal
@@SimRacing604thank you so much for a prompt response!
Just got mine. They now come with green (they say on the website its 80HA) elastomers if you want a harder feeling pedal. I replaced the preload spring with 4 of those green elastomers and life is great.
Springs will always be more consistent than elastomers
Adjust the tension on the throttle using the slot just like the clutch. That way you can put the damper back on.
13:20 you didn't redo the mid for your throttle after you were tweaking the values.
Right on sir, this is very informative. Looking for a new set of pedals for sure. And for the price I can't beat these, for the squeaking noise have you ever tried a dry molybdenum disulfide lubricant. Just not fond of spray lubes around electric components.
Thanks very much! And yeah, I’ll be careful with the lube, thanks for the tip.
Yes, unless you're certain about the electrical situation with lubricants, best to be safe. I always have electrical grade lithium grease for that purpose.
This is quality content. Nice work, Mike.
Thank you, my friend!!
Amazing video! Could you try sim jack's shifter, the version that sim racing corner didn't make a video on
Whats up brother, very informative video.
My question is which set of pedals to get, the sim jack pros(post mod) or the simforge mark 1's you reviewed?
Great video Mike. Would be cool if these would work with the Fanatec DD Pro on consoles. I'm going to pull the string on a DD wheel base and 2 wheels to run with my PS5 and Xbox Series X this fall and trying to figure out what pedals to pair with this set up. God bless and race on 🏁
forget it. only fanatec pedals are supported. there are usb converters though.
Do you feel you have been able to get these to be as good or better than the Heusinkveld Sprints? I am curious cause I have the Sprints myself and been thinking about getting another set of pedals as back up. Would love some feedback if you don't mind.
Great video, as always!
Any thoughts on how these compare to fanatec v3? ( Which is what I'm using now)
@@ag7891 thank you! All told, I would stick with the v3 pedals. There are some mechanical and tuning advantages of these pedals, but the v3s are great and it wouldn’t be a huge step up for you.
Wich dimension is the damper i will to try it
👍
Excellent video. Did you get rid off the side to side play?
Thanks for the great video, do you think that the hydraulic dampers make sense? With the dampers kit, do they also include regular rods? because I'm sure undecided between having those dampers or not
Thank you! The hydraulic damper makes no sense on the accelerator. They could/should definitely ship without that
Do you have a link to DXtweek version 5.02.114 i can only find version 2 beta and it does not want to work correctly.
I think I’ll pick the bundle with 2 gas dampers, or 1 (not 3 because as I suspected it isn’t very useful on the gas pedal, since the real ones never have any damping feel on it). Is it useful on the clutch, does it actually improve the feeling?
dampers are regarded by many as best on the throttle, providing a smoother, more analogue feeling , (sim racing garage review of VNM pedals touches on this)
Hi! Dod you ever do a full review?
Hi. No, not yet. Hopefully in the next month or so I should be able to churn something out
Does calibration reset when you unplug USB cable?
Thanks Mike, been on the fence about these for a while. Did you manage to reduce the side to side play in these?
I have seen somewhere where you can add some preload that helps or update teh bushings
Hey Mike, great video, have been considering these for a while now. Wondering if the simjack pedals would possibly connect with the Heusinkveld controller?
Thanks so much. I don’t think it would connect to the Heusinkveld pedal software. There is a read/write system within the Heusinkveld software that I believe would be incompatible with Simjack. I’m not too tech-savvy when it comes to software, but I believe there would need to be a digital handshake between the software and hardware for the level of integration that the Heusinkveld software offers
Thanks for the reply Mike, Unfortunate, worth a thought.
@@andrewduff9822 i bought the Heusinkveld Ultimate Upgrade Kit and changed to its elastomers as well as connecting the SimJack pedals to the HV controller box. Now i can fine tune response curves, profiles etc. with the HV software and every game thinks HVs are connected.
Also tighten each screw on the pedal as i found mine came finger tight also the pedals were loose
Hey Mike! Guess what? I found out how to drive around on the historic town streets on 1971 nord layout. I posted a video showing how to get out of bounds on it, and i finally had a chance to do some exploring and and I found the city streets. I have a video showing me driving around. No glitching ro modding. Just clipping through a ambulance. I almost think it's an intentional easter egg. Pretty sure it is. I can show you how to get there. I am uploading another video. I was recording while exploring.
Thanks Mike!! How do they compare to the sprints after the mods??
i looked at the simjack minis before but i´m actually think i´ll buy these pro ones . i´m totally NOT satisfied with my moza sr-p
Is it worth buying this aliexpress pedals? Simjack, simsonn and the other two brands that i don't remember? I want to go better then csl pedals and I think is my next step but are they good in the long run?
Hello nice and informative video ! Do you think it is worth to sell my Fanatec CSL LC pedals and buy one of these?
Great review. Im coming from tlcm with elastomer mods. Seriously considering these given the price to performence. Ive read some calibration dificulties in iracing. Any validity to those claims? My main sim is iracing and if it works well there im sold.
I have a set and drive iracing I have had no issues in calibration in iracing. On a sidenote you can also make tweaks in the joycalib file in iracing as well
Good information! Makes me want to improve my t-lcm's 😊
It would take a bit of tuning, but it has the potential to be much better than the T-LCMs
I heard a lot of people saying they switched from tlcm and that they were amazing, even when they hadn't tuned it alot from the start
@@MicroGBY I think this would vary depending on the user. The T-LCMs are very “safe” and neutral feeling out of the box, whereas I’d probably categorize the Simjack pedals as harsh. The Simjack throttle is heavy, the brake is spongey and the clutch is arguably too light. So I think the T-LCM pedals are more likely to make more people happy than the Simjacks, but out of the box I’d imagine the Simjacks are going to feel excellent to a smaller group of users
@@SimRacing604I just ordered a set of these with the dampeners, currently have the pedals from the moza r5 combo, out of the box do you think im going to be happy with them or need to do a bunch of modding to get them feeling better as well? I had to stiffen up the brake on the moza pedals as it was far to light. Thanks.
@@buffalobill1540 Just ordered a set coming from the CSL pedals. You end up doing any modding / adjusting after they came?
Did you end up fixing the wobble at all?
You should’ve got the Simsonn racing set better finish , nowhere near the slop of bearings pedals side movement comes with springs and elastomers all for less than the cost of these Impaid $370 aud, for mine that included 10% tax so take 34 off that is $340 aus or $225 usd . The best thing is they come with proper calibration software no joy con or Di, and stuffing around doing maths and experimenting , deadband sliders and normal set-up procedures, graphs, etc so you can do curved gain instead of linear if needed with five datum points on graph to set curve as per name brands . I love your videos, Mike can send you a copy of the calibration software if you want !
can you post a link to the software?
We should rename these Goldilocks - Some find too stiff and some find too soft - I am really enjoying the stock setup!
Me too, I love driving road cars in AC, feels great this way. I might try switching one of the elastomers to a spring
Would you choose these or CSL Elite v2? I currently own Clubsport v3 Inverted and was thinking of "sidegrading" to CSL elite v2 but these also caught my eye since I'm looking for something around 300 euros. Started getting pain in my knees from Clubsport due to inability to change the position of the brake, my legs always feel cramped. Also would love to go back to simracing in socks. With Clubsport that was almost impossible, especially longer stints. CSL elite v2 seems perfect for my needs in that sense, however I do like a throttle with a nice resistance so that's why I'm kinda undecided now.
It’s very close. I like the clean, ready-to-go nature of the CSL Elite V2s. Those are great pedals at a great price. But the Simjack pedals have a level of customization and realism that the Elites can’t match. If you don’t mind tuning and customizing, I’d probably lean toward the Simjacks. If plug and play is more your speed, the Elite V2 is definitely my recommendation
I just got these. So far amazing! Very affordable for the quality 🎉
I still dont understand why you would have a load cell on the throttle
where do you buy the pedals base plate from?
Also AliExpress
I've noticed that you've never hit the brake pedal at 100%. Was it done on purpose?
remove the spring on the break and replace it with 2 skateboard bushings!
Couldn't you just swap the gas and clutch pedal?
Order some few days ago pretty cheap only $330 au 😀
That’s exciting! I think you’ll like them
The pedal travel should be there on all pedals and be able to tune it out. I get racers wanting on/off switches for pedals to be fast but personally I like realism so to have options when setting them up is good.
You’re pressing gas and brake while trail braking, might be limiting your lap times.
These look like a cheap version of the BJ simracing pedals wich i 100% recomend
3D pribt your own elastimers
Why is everyone looking to have no break travel like race cars and road cars have at least 2 inches of travel on all pedals sim racers are a weird species
Dude you gotta work on your heel and toe, trail braking. Never seen anyone pushing throttle on every brake initiation. Its very bad.
Why do you care?
@@SimRacing604 Don't know why he cares, but you should definitely care
@truejayoh Coming from the guy with 12 subs and 1 video using a handbrake when it’s not needed
300€ is my full sim racing setpup c,:
Not $300 is a cheap ass Logitech or thrustmaster!
@@SIMRIG412 Thustmaster T300 is still good for 300€
I heard canadian. Hit subscribe.
Sorry but you say the same thing over and over again, the video could be half as long.