4:34 theres a GIANT difference between locking the rear tires and giving it gas vs driving it. a lot of that power thats going into lifting the front end will be used to propel the car forward. by locking the rear wheels all the motors power is going into trying to lift the front tires.
Do slipper pads require break-in for best consistency? I have been told that with new slipper and pads, you should tighten the nut all the way down, and leave it like that for 15 minutes to break in the spring. Then loosen it up enough to where it's slip while holding the tires. And then run the car on bench (while holding the tires for a few minutes to build a good amount of heat in the pads to where there is a near mirror finish on the pads. Is this method legit?
I think a slipper eliminator is good, they have their benefits. But in my opinion, it’s almost as good to run a very tight slipper setup, just because your going to almost always have a little bit of slip, power delivery will be about the same on most conditions, and it’s one less thing to purchase. But if you are debating on trying it, you can always pick one up and compare for yourself.
@@TheRcworld101 i think the main reason for going with a slipper eliminator is to reduce rotating mass. if you wanted more grip in the rear end you would never buy heavier wheels or add weight to them because rotating mass is bad, mmmkay.
My instinct and logic says if your running a mod motor you would want to tighten the slipper. Why do you say loosen? Well i see you dpnt reply to any questions so hopefully someone else can answer this
@@dirtrider88 Modified normally has a strong power band and delivery and we normally run hotter esc profiles with a lot of Boost and turbo. So the bottom end will snap out of corners strong. So to compensate, we generally only set the slipper to just enough torque to now break grip and be able to put down all the power for an efficient throttle feel. Hope this helps 🙂 Thanks for watching!
@@TheRcworld101 thanks for answering my question. my thinking is that the more power will cause the slipper to slip more easily so you would have to tighten it. i see what your saying but to me what i said also makes sense. i guess ill go with the guy who has more experience. i have always either raced 17.5 with a lockout or ran bashers with a slipper which in my experience the manual usually just says something like "back out 1 1/2 turns".
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great information and setup,awesome rc
Just found your channel, good videos. I was wondering the proper way to set this thing, I’m just now starting to get into 2wd
4:34 theres a GIANT difference between locking the rear tires and giving it gas vs driving it. a lot of that power thats going into lifting the front end will be used to propel the car forward. by locking the rear wheels all the motors power is going into trying to lift the front tires.
What happens if your engine starts making noises when you're starting to adjust your slipper clutch
Where can I find those tyres, what size are they
could you do this the same with a 4wd car if you had the front tires hanging off the end of the table?
I try to tightened the nut slightly pass flush but it also turn the slipper pads/hubs while holding the spur..is that already the max?
What brand pit set up board is that your using?
Do slipper pads require break-in for best consistency? I have been told that with new slipper and pads, you should tighten the nut all the way down, and leave it like that for 15 minutes to break in the spring. Then loosen it up enough to where it's slip while holding the tires. And then run the car on bench (while holding the tires for a few minutes to build a good amount of heat in the pads to where there is a near mirror finish on the pads. Is this method legit?
whats your opinion on the slipper eliminator for stock. I run on a med. to high grip track and Im not sure if I should pick one up
I think a slipper eliminator is good, they have their benefits. But in my opinion, it’s almost as good to run a very tight slipper setup, just because your going to almost always have a little bit of slip, power delivery will be about the same on most conditions, and it’s one less thing to purchase. But if you are debating on trying it, you can always pick one up and compare for yourself.
@@TheRcworld101 Awesome information, thanks for the opinion.
@@TheRcworld101 i think the main reason for going with a slipper eliminator is to reduce rotating mass. if you wanted more grip in the rear end you would never buy heavier wheels or add weight to them because rotating mass is bad, mmmkay.
My instinct and logic says if your running a mod motor you would want to tighten the slipper. Why do you say loosen?
Well i see you dpnt reply to any questions so hopefully someone else can answer this
@@dirtrider88 Modified normally has a strong power band and delivery and we normally run hotter esc profiles with a lot of
Boost and turbo. So the bottom end will snap out of corners strong. So to compensate, we generally only set the slipper to just enough torque to now break grip and be able to put down all the power for an efficient throttle feel. Hope this helps 🙂 Thanks for watching!
@@TheRcworld101 thanks for answering my question. my thinking is that the more power will cause the slipper to slip more easily so you would have to tighten it. i see what your saying but to me what i said also makes sense. i guess ill go with the guy who has more experience. i have always either raced 17.5 with a lockout or ran bashers with a slipper which in my experience the manual usually just says something like "back out 1 1/2 turns".