Folks, if you haven’t already please read the description for this video. I have added information on sources for the materials used in this video and also a few comments on selecting resistors and trim potentiometers. Enjoy the video-Larry
Ok Larry, very good presentation. I am convinced how good a structure with an interior and lighting looks. I am looking forward to working on that as I rebuild my layout.
Thank you so much for all of your videos. You provide so much helpful information, as well as the specifics needed, not only am I finding solutions but I am learning far more that I had hoped. You make this so enjoyable. Many thanks!
Great video, Larry! To power the accessories on my layout (switch machines, lights, etc.) I converted a computer power supply for the task. I have 12V for the Tortoises (Torti?), and either 5V or 3.3V for lights and LED's. 24, 50, and 32 amps respectively. For a relatively inexpensive but powerful power supply, it's something to check out.
Excellent move. Those multi-outlet computer supplies are a great option. I use a 12VDC 10A switching power supply for my main accessory bus then have voltage dropping circuits for sub-buses to power lower voltage accessories such as lights, essentially doing the same thing as you.
Hi. Where can I buy LED lights of different physical sizes and colors to convert some of my O gauge engines and cars' lighting? The LEDs would be connecting to a 6 volt pin on a MTH Proto 2, 3 volt circuit board in the tender. What voltage LED should I use and do I need resistors. Thank you. Great info on you channel.
Thanks for trying, but I sitll don't know how to wire. You showed that neat lighting strip, which was nice. But does it connect to my bus? A 2nd set of black and red wires? So there is another set of wires parallel to my track bus? - My frustration is due to the fact that I dont understand this stuff like you guys, and frankly, I feel stupid as hell.
Larry, can you show us how, and what you used to power your lights on your layout? Did you use a wall wart, or tie it into a accesory bus? Did you wire in some type of switch, or a decoder? Thanks!
I ha e mentioned before that i used a 12VDC 10 amp switching power supply connected to a 12VDC bus running under the entire layout. I used buck boards to create sub-buses of lower voltages off the main bus if I have a bunch of LEDs to light. However I might go ahead and do a video just on that so thanks for the nudge.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks so much for the quick reply. I must have missed that part. I've been binging on your great videos, and my head is a little scrambled from all the wonderful information. Thanks again, as you're a wonderful help to us all!!😃
Hi there. This video was a lot of help to me. I am now to doing this, but I sure do like the dimer for the light. So can you tell me the name of it again. And can you tell me the one that I shood get on Ebay. My set up is not that big so I don't need a big set:"). Thank you for your help and I do look forward to more great videos:"}!!!!
Using a NCE DCC wireless system and their SB5 smart booster, how many volts (voltage source) are running along the bus wires? How do I use OHM's law to wire a simple LED light off the bus wires for a building? Thanks!
Stocks numbers differ everywhere.So look for a trim pot in the 1K or 10 K range depending on how much resistance you will need. Depending on the LEDs you will likely need something in the 600-1000 ohm range for each, as brightness varies. I discussed all this in the video and also in the description to the video and added a pinned comment asking that you read the description.
Jameco is my second favorite supplier after All Electronics. I get most of my large power supplies from them, and electronic parts that AE does not have.
The wires from the bus to the structures are 20-22 ga and under a foot long in most cases. The 12VDC bus is some old 12ga wire I had on hand but 14 should do for most runs if not exceedingly long, plan for some voltage drops but they will be minor and not really an issue for most LEDs a d accessory decoders. After all you will be dropping the LEDs to about 3V and most accessory decoders work on as little as 9V.
Other than the obvious, the 5K can vary resistance from 0-5000 ohms and the 10K can go from 0-10000 ohms. However because the 5K has a narrower range it is easier to fine tune it. We are basically using them as variable resistors.
@@TheDCCGuy theres some stuff I've seen on thingaverse that's dcc specific the DBL 168 /pm42 have a bracket designed for them and theres diy signals ( ho and n scales) also so theres ideas for future projects
Larry, Nice job. But I have a question which may have no answer. Do you, or any of your subs., know of a way to wire an LED Strip but limit which diode emit light if not stay off entirely? My problem application is I have a structure with shared walls. I need one diode to illuminate one room. The middle will end up staggering the dividing wall. That diode needs to be off. And the third diode is in the other room and illuminated . Any ideas on how to pull this off? ~Jim
Hi DCC Guy. I saw your video about the lighting houses it's was great one, the things I am interested in it is the demo light control. Where I can order it. Thank you
Do you men the remote on/off button? If so that is a Woodland Scenics product in their Just Plug line. You can see all their products at www.woodlandscenics.com .
Great video on lighting Larry, thanks for all the tips. I am guessing that you use a separate power supply for accessories and lighting? Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
Yes, I have a 12VDC 10A power supply that powers an accessory bus under the layout. From that I have voltage dropping circuits creating sub-buses that power LEDs and other low voltage accessories. Nothing but trains are powered by the DCC power bus.
The whole video could have been greatly simplified for newbies if it had introduced Ohm's Law to start with: V = I*R or I = V/R which is the form useful for wiring LEDs. (V = voltage, I = current, R = resistance). LEDs in general will burn up if more than 0.02 amps = 20 mA (milliamps) flows thru them. There is hardly any noticeable difference in brightness if voltage (or resistance) is selected so that 15 mA passes thru an LED. Ohm's Law would help anyone to choose the right voltage and/or the right resistance.
Yes, but if you show some/many viewers an equation their eyes will roll back and they will move on to another video. So I have to hook them first then dig into the details.
Wiring an LED isnt rocket science, and Ohm's Law is 8th-grade science. Not all your viewers are equation "stunted." In this case if a viewer is overwhelmed by 8th-grade science, he/she should try a different hobby. It is important to know why 12VDC isnt the best choice for LED power for these strip LEDs. It is also important to know that choosing a PROPER resistor as a current limiter will keep the user from LED burnouts and/or increase the lifetime of the LEDs. All that is easily seen thru Ohm's Law.
@@samuelbrucker7189 Thank you. Have fun when you're all grown up. Notice how to spell you're, not your. Do your homework too. A little education might help you.
Good question, with each LED you’re only talking about 20 milliamps so for 3 on a strip that’s only 60 mA so a 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistor should do the job. However, in this case there already are dropping resistors on the strips so we are only dropping it a tiny bit more with an added resistor so 1/4 watt should be more than enough and 1/2 watt will do it for sure. Plus if you are happy with the brightness then you don’t need more resistance.I have added more on this to the description for this video.
Really cool but outdated in terms of availability of micro LEDs and of course Arduino which enables you to light multiple buildings with variable lighting, coming on and off either randomly or to a set schedule. This is nice if you use a large gauge but would not suit N or Z gauge buildings. The light strips are far too big.
Folks, if you haven’t already please read the description for this video. I have added information on sources for the materials used in this video and also a few comments on selecting resistors and trim potentiometers. Enjoy the video-Larry
Thanks for the video and the references. Very useful.
Your videos are a blessing for those of us who are still learning about the world's greatest hobby! Thank you very much.
One of the best explanations out here. Thank you.
Ok Larry, very good presentation. I am convinced how good a structure with an interior and lighting looks. I am looking forward to working on that as I rebuild my layout.
Thank you so much for all of your videos. You provide so much helpful information, as well as the specifics needed, not only am I finding solutions but I am learning far more that I had hoped. You make this so enjoyable. Many thanks!
Really good post, thank you for showing us with little or knowledge, how to introduce lighting to our layout.
I would like thank you for your support to the DCC . I like to be one of your followers.
hello larry it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks friends randy
Great video, Larry! To power the accessories on my layout (switch machines, lights, etc.) I converted a computer power supply for the task. I have 12V for the Tortoises (Torti?), and either 5V or 3.3V for lights and LED's. 24, 50, and 32 amps respectively. For a relatively inexpensive but powerful power supply, it's something to check out.
Excellent move. Those multi-outlet computer supplies are a great option. I use a 12VDC 10A switching power supply for my main accessory bus then have voltage dropping circuits for sub-buses to power lower voltage accessories such as lights, essentially doing the same thing as you.
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Larry!
Thank you
Have or can you use a computer power supply that has various power outputs from 3 volts to 12 volts?
Sure, it’s a good option.
Hi. Where can I buy LED lights of different physical sizes and colors to convert some of my O gauge engines and cars' lighting? The LEDs would be connecting to a 6 volt pin on a MTH Proto 2, 3 volt circuit board in the tender. What voltage LED should I use and do I need resistors. Thank you. Great info on you channel.
Look on eBay and assuming your supply is 6 volts and the amperage of the LED is 20 mA you would need a 150 ohm resistor.
Thanks for trying, but I sitll don't know how to wire. You showed that neat lighting strip, which was nice. But does it connect to my bus? A 2nd set of black and red wires? So there is another set of wires parallel to my track bus?
- My frustration is due to the fact that I dont understand this stuff like you guys, and frankly, I feel stupid as hell.
Read, read, read, and learn, that’s what I did. In that case I had a 12 volt DC bus under the layout to which were connected things like lights, etc..
Larry, can you show us how, and what you used to power your lights on your layout? Did you use a wall wart, or tie it into a accesory bus? Did you wire in some type of switch, or a decoder? Thanks!
I ha e mentioned before that i used a 12VDC 10 amp switching power supply connected to a 12VDC bus running under the entire layout. I used buck boards to create sub-buses of lower voltages off the main bus if I have a bunch of LEDs to light. However I might go ahead and do a video just on that so thanks for the nudge.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks so much for the quick reply. I must have missed that part. I've been binging on your great videos, and my head is a little scrambled from all the wonderful information. Thanks again, as you're a wonderful help to us all!!😃
Hi there. This video was a lot of help to me. I am now to doing this, but I sure do like the dimer for the light. So can you tell me the name of it again. And can you tell me the one that I shood get on Ebay. My set up is not that big so I don't need a big set:"). Thank you for your help and I do look forward to more great videos:"}!!!!
Check the description for this video.
Ok thank you :).!!!!
Using a NCE DCC wireless system and their SB5 smart booster, how many volts (voltage source) are running along the bus wires? How do I use OHM's law to wire a simple LED light off the bus wires for a building? Thanks!
You want a DC bus to power your LEDs. Dont draw power from the DCC bus.
Wonderful. Thank you!
What is part number for the dimmer switch and can you use on bus to dim multiple buildings
Stocks numbers differ everywhere.So look for a trim pot in the 1K or 10 K range depending on how much resistance you will need. Depending on the LEDs you will likely need something in the 600-1000 ohm range for each, as brightness varies. I discussed all this in the video and also in the description to the video and added a pinned comment asking that you read the description.
Could one use an old DC transformer as a power supply, and use the rheostat as a fudged potentiometer?
Maybe. It will depend on the voltage, amperage, and the resolution of the rheostat. Give it a try, nothing ventured nothing gained.
Try Jameco electronics. They also have the Ardinos too.
Jameco is my second favorite supplier after All Electronics. I get most of my large power supplies from them, and electronic parts that AE does not have.
Larry, what is the size wire you use on your 12VDC bus and the wire between the LEDs? Kimball
The wires from the bus to the structures are 20-22 ga and under a foot long in most cases. The 12VDC bus is some old 12ga wire I had on hand but 14 should do for most runs if not exceedingly long, plan for some voltage drops but they will be minor and not really an issue for most LEDs a d accessory decoders. After all you will be dropping the LEDs to about 3V and most accessory decoders work on as little as 9V.
Very useful. Thanks.
What is the main difference between a 5k and 10k trim pot?
Other than the obvious, the 5K can vary resistance from 0-5000 ohms and the 10K can go from 0-10000 ohms. However because the 5K has a narrower range it is easier to fine tune it. We are basically using them as variable resistors.
@@TheDCCGuy That's the answer I needed! Thanks again!
Micro mart also sells on Amazon
Yes, but I just looked and they only seem to have about 50 items listed.
@@TheDCCGuy theres some stuff I've seen on thingaverse that's dcc specific the DBL 168 /pm42 have a bracket designed for them and theres diy signals ( ho and n scales) also so theres ideas for future projects
Really useful information where can I get them little switches to ton the lights down?. take care and stay safe kind Gary leicestertmd
AllElectronics.com or any electronics supply company.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you so much.
Larry,
Nice job. But I have a question which may have no answer.
Do you, or any of your subs., know of a way to wire an LED Strip but limit which diode emit light if not stay off entirely?
My problem application is I have a structure with shared walls. I need one diode to illuminate one room. The middle will end up staggering the dividing wall. That diode needs to be off. And the third diode is in the other room and illuminated . Any ideas on how to pull this off? ~Jim
You cannot separate them as that will break the circuit. To do what you want will require using individual LEDs.
Cut a 3-LED strip so that only 1 LED lights up. Then run branches off that strip from its inputs.
Where did you get that awesome grocery store?
Unfortunately it is a kit that is no longer made. However you might find something similar at AMB (laserkit.com).
Hi DCC Guy. I saw your video about the lighting houses it's was great one, the things I am interested in it is the demo light control. Where I can order it. Thank you
Do you men the remote on/off button? If so that is a Woodland Scenics product in their Just Plug line. You can see all their products at www.woodlandscenics.com .
Supervisor 👍
Great video on lighting Larry, thanks for all the tips. I am guessing that you use a separate power supply for accessories and lighting? Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
Yes, I have a 12VDC 10A power supply that powers an accessory bus under the layout. From that I have voltage dropping circuits creating sub-buses that power LEDs and other low voltage accessories. Nothing but trains are powered by the DCC power bus.
The whole video could have been greatly simplified for newbies if it had introduced Ohm's Law to start with: V = I*R or I = V/R which is the form useful for wiring LEDs. (V = voltage, I = current, R = resistance). LEDs in general will burn up if more than 0.02 amps = 20 mA (milliamps) flows thru them. There is hardly any noticeable difference in brightness if voltage (or resistance) is selected so that 15 mA passes thru an LED. Ohm's Law would help anyone to choose the right voltage and/or the right resistance.
Yes, but if you show some/many viewers an equation their eyes will roll back and they will move on to another video. So I have to hook them first then dig into the details.
Wiring an LED isnt rocket science, and Ohm's Law is 8th-grade science. Not all your viewers are equation "stunted." In this case if a viewer is overwhelmed by 8th-grade science, he/she should try a different hobby. It is important to know why 12VDC
isnt the best choice for LED power for these strip LEDs. It is also important to know that choosing a PROPER resistor as a current limiter will keep the user from LED burnouts and/or increase the lifetime of the LEDs. All that is easily seen thru Ohm's Law.
Your so smart. I want to be just like you when I grow up. I bet your fun at parties too.
@@samuelbrucker7189 Thank you. Have fun when you're all grown up. Notice how to spell you're, not your. Do your homework too. A little education might help you.
@@walshrd you sure told me. If only I was so smart like you... if only.
When you talk about using a resistor to drop the voltage on a LED strip you say nothing about sizing the resistor wattage ??????
Good question, with each LED you’re only talking about 20 milliamps so for 3 on a strip that’s only 60 mA so a 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistor should do the job. However, in this case there already are dropping resistors on the strips so we are only dropping it a tiny bit more with an added resistor so 1/4 watt should be more than enough and 1/2 watt will do it for sure. Plus if you are happy with the brightness then you don’t need more resistance.I have added more on this to the description for this video.
Really cool but outdated in terms of availability of micro LEDs and of course Arduino which enables you to light multiple buildings with variable lighting, coming on and off either randomly or to a set schedule. This is nice if you use a large gauge but would not suit N or Z gauge buildings. The light strips are far too big.
what about sml...
??