Yes, I was able to light that whole scene using these components and no soldering or messing with electrical components. And for many who lack any knowledge or understanding of electrical circuits and methodology this is a perfect solution. Plus I could never build lighting fixtures that look as good or as convincing as these.
Hi Larry the street lamp wires are 4 ft just put 6 in my layout I did use extension cables to reach my hub then wrapped the excess cable with tape and plugged it in perfect cheers mate
Another great video, love how you explain and show how to in depth, I don't have a model RR but when I do start one I will know how to do it thanks to your vids, I'm subscribed and I always hit the like button.
I guess you had better luck with the linker plugs than I did. Sometimes they worked sometimes not. I ended up soldering the wires to a larger gauge wire to get a proper connection. Striping the wires is next to impossible. I ended up burning off the insulation with a butane lighter( I know, not a recommended practice) While I was happy with the results, the frustration of working with situations were you couldn’t “just plug “ made me look for other solutions and so I went with Dwarvin fiber optic lighting. It was simple and lent itself to a lot of creative solutions to retro fitting my buildings. I’ve also used Evan’s Designs for lighting using leds .
I like those lights mounted on the wooden poles! I'm guessing the lights can be used by themselves (with resistors, of course) and powered from my converted computer power supply? I think 3.3V DC would power them nicely.
Let me know if that works for you. I keep 1.5V batteries around in 1 and 2 battery holders so I can test things like that quickly and safely. They should be your basic white LED. I just find it easier to use the Just Plug Light Hubs and my old MRC power pack.
thanks I bought your book and several of the just plug supplies, 4 units, expansion, wiring, pole lights, spot lights and 20 various light units, got 16 working so far...this helps explain to link units for my pole lights..are you doing more videos to support your book chapters...it would be great..you help me create a way to light my self designed ho scale lighthouse...thanks for being here! via Maine, dlg
That is a good idea. One problem is that they are all completed so about all I can do is a show and tell kind of video unless I tear one apart and rebuild it-not likely to happen. I’ll figure out a way to do something.
I am a big fan of the just plug system, especially the flag pole. Are you familiar with the NCE Light It Illuminator? It has the same plugs on them as the Just Plug System and allows you to control the lights via DCC.
Just the video I have been looking for. Thanks for the information. If an expansion hub's purpose is converting 16v AC to 12v DC, why can't I provide my own 12v DC power to the light hubs and skip the expansion hubs altogether? Harold
I have no knowledge of the internal circuitry. Your DC power supply may work or it may not. Would you risk damaging the Light Hub over the cost of a 16VAC power supply? Also the various electrical components for converting AC to DC are in the Light Hub not the expansion hub. As far as I can see the Expansion Hub just serves as a junction box to route the AC out to multiple Light Hubs where the AC is converted to DC. BTW I also found out why the trim pots break, the little knobs have a VERY small plastic pin that connects them to the actual trim pot and that little pin is what breaks. I need to test whether the trim pot will still work using a small screw driver to turn it-more once I have time to experiment.
In addition .to changing to DC power the hub also has everything needed to step down the power such as the resistors, and I think I read it also provide some anything needed for anti flicker too if that is an issue.
The Light Hubs, have a number of resistors, rectifier bridge, capacitor, and the trim pots. I have not opened an Expansion Hub since it is stuck to the underside of the layout now, but I bet it is just wired to distribute the AC power to the Light Hubs.
WOW this sure is good to know I am running the old school way ... Wire to wire . I am just now getting back into this and I sure do have a lot to learn :"). It is all new compared to win I was doing this back in the early 80's !!! I do like the Police car to !!! So what are you saying ... Is that you can brake the Hub ?. If you turn it to tightly right?. Great video and thank you and take care:).
Yes, you can break the little trim pot by turning it too zealously. Hopefully they have gone to a better design as this was from the first version of these about 3-4 years ago.
Great overview Larry! Question for you on these, how does one extend the length of the wiring to reach distances without having to buy multiple controllers/hubs/etc. I'm assuming can cut/solder additional length of wire as needed or? Thanks.
I assume that could be done. However I have never had that problem and instead find the provided wires are excessive and I usually end up cutting them.
Maybe. I suspect the Just Plug lights are simple surface mount LEDs and the electronics for controlling voltage and current are in the little black boxes. If I get time I’ll try to remember to test a straight LED. Some Gaugemaster lights are incandescent bulbs so you would need to know their operating voltage too. If my assumptions are correct then you likely would only get about 3 volts from the Just Plug controllers and I bet the Gaugemasters are 12 volt bulbs. If they offer LED lights then it is more likely to work.
No, thats’s a fast clock with a special driver circuit. I showed how that goes together in my wiring projects book. Would be nice to have one that could be wired up like that!
I just got the street lights and one of the signs and although they look great the connectors that came with mine look nothing like the one in this video and require the eyesight of a hawk or a twelve-year-old to hook up. Frustrating for an old codger like myself. I changed my mind about buying any additional lights after being unable to wire up the first ones. Engineered for young folks only.
Are you modeling a specific area of the Southern Railroad? I think you model the Piedmont division but not sure about that. I wondered do you do specific places in that division and what they are? Nice video about the Just Plug system. It's a great product for people that are not great with electric systems. My favorite specific product from this system are the wood light poles. So far I've stock pilled 15 packs for the future layout. Stay well. 👍
I model the Charlottesville to Lynchburg mainline of the Southern Railway in summer 1957. That lets me use Southern green diesels as well as N&W 4-8-4 streamlined steam. I can also pull on some C&O. The area offers a combination of mainline pass and freight as well as locals on the mainline and in the Lynchburg area.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for answering my question. I have another. My favorite railroad is Southern and I'm wanting to model a branchline from Salisbury to Norwood in NC. I know a lot about Southern Railroad but there are still some things I need answered. Were the first diesels all painted green? If so when did they start painting them black?
The first passenger diesels came in the fancy green and imitation aluminum scheme in 1941. Originally the imitation aluminum (light grey) was silver metallic paint but it apparently did not hold up well so they switched to light grey. The freight diesels were black with the silver then light grey lettering and herald. The early FTs and F3s were black and imitation aluminum too. Then in 1949 all were switched to the green and imitation aluminum paint. That lasted until 1959 when the green was replaced with black on all units. However there were some early trial repaints as early as 1957. BTW Accuflex SP Letter Grey is a good match for the imitation aluminum in the MicroScale decals.
@@TheDCCGuy This is perfect information for me. I'm going to model 1945 to 1950 time frame. So now i know i can have both paint variations in all different types of locomotives and not particularly constrained to make the paint match a certain type locomotive precisely. Thanks this is a great help. Stay well. 👍
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The Just Plug system is a game changer for a beginner like me.
Thanks for the information Larry. I'll be looking into Woodland Scenics.
awesome kit for people like myself that are no good at using a soldering iron and resistors ...... thanks for shearing this great info .👍👍
this video made me feel good from the start with those beautiful green Southern locos. thank you.
Perfect timing on this video, Larry. I have ordered the components of this system, and they're about to arrive in the mail. Thanks. ...Roy
This video helped me understand these! Thanks Larry!
Great item, sure makes lighting plug and play... thank you
Yes, I was able to light that whole scene using these components and no soldering or messing with electrical components. And for many who lack any knowledge or understanding of electrical circuits and methodology this is a perfect solution. Plus I could never build lighting fixtures that look as good or as convincing as these.
Good review, the next steps on my layout. I'm looking forward to installing. 🙂
Have fun with them.
Hi Larry the street lamp wires are 4 ft just put 6 in my layout I did use extension cables to reach my hub then wrapped the excess cable with tape and plugged it in perfect cheers mate
Nice review. Getting ready to do some of this myself
Another great video, love how you explain and show how to in depth, I don't have a model RR but when I do start one I will know how to do it thanks to your vids, I'm subscribed and I always hit the like button.
looks good might get some for my layout.
Very helpful, thanks 👍❤
Very informative. Just what I needed.
I guess you had better luck with the linker plugs than I did. Sometimes they worked sometimes not. I ended up soldering the wires to a larger gauge wire to get a proper connection. Striping the wires is next to impossible. I ended up burning off the insulation with a butane lighter( I know, not a recommended practice)
While I was happy with the results, the frustration of working with situations were you couldn’t “just plug “ made me look for other solutions and so I went with Dwarvin fiber optic lighting. It was simple and lent itself to a lot of creative solutions to retro fitting my buildings.
I’ve also used Evan’s Designs for lighting using leds .
I know what you mean but I found that by doubling over the ends of the wires and combining multiples it became thick enough to do the job.
Thanks Larry!
I like those lights mounted on the wooden poles! I'm guessing the lights can be used by themselves (with resistors, of course) and powered from my converted computer power supply? I think 3.3V DC would power them nicely.
Let me know if that works for you. I keep 1.5V batteries around in 1 and 2 battery holders so I can test things like that quickly and safely. They should be your basic white LED. I just find it easier to use the Just Plug Light Hubs and my old MRC power pack.
@@TheDCCGuy Once I get to that point, I'll let you know how they worked.
thanks I bought your book and several of the just plug supplies, 4 units, expansion, wiring, pole lights, spot lights and 20 various light units, got 16 working so far...this helps explain to link units for my pole lights..are you doing more videos to support your book chapters...it would be great..you help me create a way to light my self designed ho scale lighthouse...thanks for being here! via Maine, dlg
That is a good idea. One problem is that they are all completed so about all I can do is a show and tell kind of video unless I tear one apart and rebuild it-not likely to happen. I’ll figure out a way to do something.
Demonstrating these with the NCE Lite-It would be nice to see.
I’ll do that in my next structure video!
@@TheDCCGuy Cheers !
I am a big fan of the just plug system, especially the flag pole.
Are you familiar with the NCE Light It Illuminator? It has the same plugs on them as the Just Plug System and allows you to control the lights via DCC.
Wait for it!
@@TheDCCGuy LOL, sorry, I did not mean to jump the gun.
Just the video I have been looking for. Thanks for the information. If an expansion hub's purpose is converting 16v AC to 12v DC, why can't I provide my own 12v DC power to the light hubs and skip the expansion hubs altogether? Harold
I have no knowledge of the internal circuitry. Your DC power supply may work or it may not. Would you risk damaging the Light Hub over the cost of a 16VAC power supply? Also the various electrical components for converting AC to DC are in the Light Hub not the expansion hub. As far as I can see the Expansion Hub just serves as a junction box to route the AC out to multiple Light Hubs where the AC is converted to DC. BTW I also found out why the trim pots break, the little knobs have a VERY small plastic pin that connects them to the actual trim pot and that little pin is what breaks. I need to test whether the trim pot will still work using a small screw driver to turn it-more once I have time to experiment.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for your response. I get your point but I may try it anyway. I'll let you know what happens...Harold
In addition .to changing to DC power the hub also has everything needed to step down the power such as the resistors, and I think I read it also provide some anything needed for anti flicker too if that is an issue.
The Light Hubs, have a number of resistors, rectifier bridge, capacitor, and the trim pots. I have not opened an Expansion Hub since it is stuck to the underside of the layout now, but I bet it is just wired to distribute the AC power to the Light Hubs.
@@TheDCCGuy That helps...thanks for looking...Harold
Larry good presentation could you tell me how long is the wire on the street lamps thanks
I think they are about 3’ but probably differ some. I found them so long I had to cut them back quire a bit, which is both good and bad.
Looks less time consuming than scratch building the lighting components which I like.
WOW this sure is good to know I am running the old school way ... Wire to wire . I am just now getting back into this and I sure do have a lot to learn :"). It is all new compared to win I was doing this back in the early 80's !!! I do like the Police car to !!! So what are you saying ... Is that you can brake the Hub ?. If you turn it to tightly right?. Great video and thank you and take care:).
Yes, you can break the little trim pot by turning it too zealously. Hopefully they have gone to a better design as this was from the first version of these about 3-4 years ago.
Thank you so much for the info:)!!!!
Great overview Larry! Question for you on these, how does one extend the length of the wiring to reach distances without having to buy multiple controllers/hubs/etc. I'm assuming can cut/solder additional length of wire as needed or? Thanks.
I assume that could be done. However I have never had that problem and instead find the provided wires are excessive and I usually end up cutting them.
Nice video Larry, the whole system seems to be very well thought out. How long would you estimate the wire runs to be?
If you mean the wires attached to each light, they are over 3’ but I can’t remember exactly.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks, that is what I meant. I really enjoy your videos.
Is it possible to add none WLS lights such as those from Gaugemaster via a Linker cable ? Great video series ! 🇬🇧🇺🇸🇬🇧
Maybe. I suspect the Just Plug lights are simple surface mount LEDs and the electronics for controlling voltage and current are in the little black boxes. If I get time I’ll try to remember to test a straight LED. Some Gaugemaster lights are incandescent bulbs so you would need to know their operating voltage too. If my assumptions are correct then you likely would only get about 3 volts from the Just Plug controllers and I bet the Gaugemasters are 12 volt bulbs. If they offer LED lights then it is more likely to work.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for a very rapid and detailed reply ! I've returned to the hobby after 50 years so lots to learn. Have a great week.
I just bought some of these. Great vid. Is there a way to make them a warm yellow tone like an older light? Maybe yellow tape or film?
Tamiya makes a transparent yellow or orange paint that I have used to make the blue/white LEDs more of a golden glow tone.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you very much Sir
That's a pretty cool lighting system. Do they make this for N gauge?
I think they do N-scale, but you can see what they offer on their website.
As always, entertaining and informative. Can you use the PNP system to run your Southern clock?
No, thats’s a fast clock with a special driver circuit. I showed how that goes together in my wiring projects book. Would be nice to have one that could be wired up like that!
I just got the street lights and one of the signs and although they look great the connectors that came with mine look nothing like the one in this video and require the eyesight of a hawk or a twelve-year-old to hook up. Frustrating for an old codger like myself. I changed my mind about buying any additional lights after being unable to wire up the first ones. Engineered for young folks only.
I did this video a couple of years ago so they may have changed the connectors.
How many linker plugs come per kit?
When you buy a set of lights there are enough to connect that set.
Are you modeling a specific area of the Southern Railroad? I think you model the Piedmont division but not sure about that. I wondered do you do specific places in that division and what they are? Nice video about the Just Plug system. It's a great product for people that are not great with electric systems. My favorite specific product from this system are the wood light poles. So far I've stock pilled 15 packs for the future layout. Stay well. 👍
I model the Charlottesville to Lynchburg mainline of the Southern Railway in summer 1957. That lets me use Southern green diesels as well as N&W 4-8-4 streamlined steam. I can also pull on some C&O. The area offers a combination of mainline pass and freight as well as locals on the mainline and in the Lynchburg area.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for answering my question. I have another. My favorite railroad is Southern and I'm wanting to model a branchline from Salisbury to Norwood in NC. I know a lot about Southern Railroad but there are still some things I need answered. Were the first diesels all painted green? If so when did they start painting them black?
The first passenger diesels came in the fancy green and imitation aluminum scheme in 1941. Originally the imitation aluminum (light grey) was silver metallic paint but it apparently did not hold up well so they switched to light grey. The freight diesels were black with the silver then light grey lettering and herald. The early FTs and F3s were black and imitation aluminum too. Then in 1949 all were switched to the green and imitation aluminum paint. That lasted until 1959 when the green was replaced with black on all units. However there were some early trial repaints as early as 1957. BTW Accuflex SP Letter Grey is a good match for the imitation aluminum in the MicroScale decals.
@@TheDCCGuy This is perfect information for me. I'm going to model 1945 to 1950 time frame. So now i know i can have both paint variations in all different types of locomotives and not particularly constrained to make the paint match a certain type locomotive precisely. Thanks this is a great help. Stay well. 👍
Top.
Thank yoyu
What building is in your video pic?
That is Walthers Water Street Depot.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you!!
Sorry typeo