Light Up Your Model Railroad (359)
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- Опубликовано: 13 июл 2024
- Providing adequate lighting for a model railroad can be a difficult process. In the past I have used incandescent bulbs, fluorescent tubes, LED "bulbs", and LED light strips. Some of these work well but require special wiring or are power hungry options. So when I saw these LED light fixtures sold by Barrina I was instantly intrigued and bought a set of six. In this video I'll give you a complete overview of everything I have learned about them, how they work, and how much power they require and hopefully give you a cost effective solution to your lighting needs. Remember you can find more about these on Amazon with a search for Barrina or at their website www.barrina-led.com .
Chapters
0:00 Intro
1:38 Sizes and colors
8:00 Making the connection
9:08 Daisy chain
10:05 Hardwiring
10:35 Hanger clips
11:20 Install demo
12:00 In go the clips
12:28 Installing a fixture
13:05 Lighting Tye River
14:00 Wrapup 
Хобби
Larry is now the DCC Jedi!
Thank you Larry and Ron for always finding products for model railroaders and explaining the pros and cons of each.
A few years ago, I tore out all of the fluorescent fixtures in my layout room, and installed sixteen of these Barrina LED T5 fixtures. What a difference! No regrets to this day. I even later purchased a spare box of eight fixtures, in the event that a fixture ever goes bad. To date, no failures. I have the 6,500K fixtures. Might be too bright or white for some, but it’s what came recommended back then. I like it. Being red-green colorblind, it’s fine! 😂
Glad to hear these have lasted you without and problems. This is something I always am concerned with when doing a video like this. Thanks for the feedback👍
This is a very slick system, it seems very well thought out. Very fine video! Thanks Larry!!! Thanks to Ron too!!!
Another excellent video with a nice variety of options. Thanks for taking the time to explain in detail. 👍🏽👍🏽
hello Larry & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Larry & Friends Randy
Larry, similar to several comments mentioning caution before buying these lights. The lights fixtures probably are not labelled as UL approved for US use, they definitely will not pass the European/British standard (BS EN 60598). Obvious points of failure are: 1) The mains connector does not have a leading earth pin - this ensures that the live and neutral connections disconnect before the earth, 2) the daisy chain connector is a male type - so the live and neutral contacts are exposed at the end of the run or if an interconnecting cable is removed, 3) when connected using only live and neutral the fixture, as you demonstrated, must be double insulated, I could not see the double square symbol on the rating plate. Not so obvious points of failure could be: 4) (As mentioned below) is the metalwork connected adequately to the earth pin? 5) Is the earth connected directly to the metalwork - if it is via the driver (electronics) then that is a no no, and finally 6) The through wiring for daisy chaining these fixtures must be at least 1.5mm2 cross sectional area ( 2.5mm2 for some countries). If I purchased some electrical equipment that arrived with the issues mentioned above it would be returned straight away for a complete refund. I'm not sure what the insurance situation if an incident occurred with these in my house. P.S. I spent 7 years as a senior test engineer at a world wide lighting manufacturer. Please be cautious with cheaply priced products.
Thanks Larry, that's a great solution and relevant for me as I grapple with the need / benefit for overhead lighting on my shelf layout.
I just installed the exact same fixtures a couple of weeks ago on my rail yard that I added. They work great and just as Larry describes. I give these a thumbs up as well. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the info!
It's amazing how far LED lights have come. It used to be LED under cabinet lighting was super expensive because it was the "new trendy thing" now these lights are everywhere and much more affordable. Don't get me wrong, SMD rolls are fine, but sometimes you just want a plug and play approach
I have been using these 5K Barrina lights too. I installed a black lighted rocker panel on the end of the layout upper fascia as I enter the room. I just reach up to flip the switches for the lights I want on. The extension cord works great if you have an L shaped shelf that you want to light up. You can make that bend.
Awsome! Love the light sabers! 👍
That's some nice lights. I'll check into these.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Thanks Larry for another informative video! Appreciate it!
Thanks Larry. I have been using some of these for a couple years now and they are a great gift to model railroaders! Easy to install, flexible in arrangement, and efficient. My wife even likes them, except she says I should remount a couple to make he ceiling symmetrical.
THANK YOU FOR DETAIL VIDEO
Been using these for years
Larry nice product I used the older style LEDs on my levels and I use Alexa to turn them on and off.
Very interesting.
When buying electric parts from Amazon Ebay and other similar sources, Check the Grounds are actually connected to each plug and to the metal case with an ohm meter. Many of these import fixtures of all types the ground is not connected and can cause Fatal problems when other parts fail and contact the case. Big Clive and other Electrical Engineers have many videos of examples but seen way more then those.
I checked and the ground wire is connected to the extruded aluminum outer casing.
@@TheDCCGuy Good. One that's wired ok. Many imports product are not and nearly no-one checks until too late. When possible, use the three wire splice end for permanent instillation.
I also found that they are ETL listed instead of UL. From what I read the ETL is another testing service that uses the UL standards.
@@TheDCCGuy ETL mark/listing is an US OSHA creation now called Intertek & could think as a "competitor" of UL for electric parts. If possible check whatever Marks are Valid. Sadly Many import things have Counterfeit safety marks like "hoverboards" not tested by UL yet have that mark on packages etc. This is Why current UL marks also have Code so can look up a Valid Mark & what tested but few of the public know that.
Cool.
Larry those fittings are a serious electrical danger, the connector on the end of the fitting to extend to the next fitting has live exposed pins.
The electrical supply cable with the plug has no ground so the fittings are not grounded when the supplied cord is used.
It is also possible to plug a supply cable into both ends of the lights and have full mains voltage on the plug pins.
I would love to tear one of these apart to see how they are wired but they are sealed so it would likely destroy it if I did. I agree that a certain amount of common sense is required with these. I forgot to show the blanking plug they provide to seal off the exposed socket at the terminal end of a run. Using that will prevent small fingers and tools from a shock. I think they can get away with the 2 prong plug for the mains connection since they basically are no different from any other free standing lamp in your house with a 2 prong plug. I definitely intend to hardwire mine so will have the fully grounded connection, but I have been doing stuff like that since I helped my dad renovate our house back in the early 1960s so am comfortable doing it. I hope anyone attempting this has similar experience or a friendly electrician.
@@TheDCCGuy I had the same concerns as @bigsparks75, people do make mistakes so I would like to have seen a protected socket/plug at the other end of the light, so they would only fit together one way. Another thing about the number of lights you can fit together, I don't know about the USA, but here in France, you can only have 8 lights on a circuit. Still thank you for the videos you produce for us.
LEDs are more energy efficient than anything else, and a fir bit brighter. If I use them, they'll almost all be dimmable so I can adjust it for what I need.
The AC receptacle has 3 prongs, presumably one a ground - maybe - but the power cord and AC plug seem to be 2-wire. So, if the housings are metal, they aren't grounded if using the AC plug. That alone does not necessarily disqualify them from this or that safety certification, but something to think about.
I just read the Amazon reviews on these and, although mostly favorable, a number of recent reviewers complained about a short (one year plus minus) service life for some of these fixtures, despite a 3-year warranty. I sent an email directly to Barrina with this concern, I will report back if/when I get a reply. After 30 days I suspect going through Amazon for a claim would be problematic.
Yes, I noted those too, but there have been several comments on this video where users say they have had these for several years with no issues so I chalked those up to sour apples.
Color choice also depends on height from track. 3000 is good for lower level if you like the yellowish/ radish color but if you only have one level and a full 7-8ft. ceiling you may want to use a brighter color 5009, 6000, 6500. The price I understand is reasonable.
Nicely done. Personally I like 5000-6500k as it looks most like natural daylight to my eye. I am tempted to try an RGBW strip with controls that simulate sunrise / sunset and even lightning if you want.
I would love to see that in a video if done.
I did a video recently on this with my dream solution. The concept is elegant cheap expandable and looks the business great stuff I hope it’s a winner for you. Mine is 11/10
👍
I'm going to order some of those lights. Please keep us posted on their reliability.
A couple of folks have commented that they have had these for some time with no problems. I ordered a second set today myself.
Did you mention if they are dimable? Some LEDs aren't...
These lights look great. Can they be used in Australia as we run on 240V?
Larry. Love your Train and DCC info. However, your lighting info is lacking. I would suggest lighting one’s model railroad with high quality light. There is a difference between a quality fixture and quality light. These fixtures have a CRI of 58? That would be terrible. I suspect it’s a typo and should be 85. In the lighting world a CRI of 85 is generic garage light. To light my model railroad, I will opt for a light with a color rendering index of 90+ at 5000k because it is supposed to be an outdoor daylight scene.
Nick
Remember those 5050 LED's that you showed is 1 amp per meter or 39 inches that equates to 5 amp or 16.5 feet and on the 110 volt is 60 watts equivalent to 60 watt traditional light bulb. There are 1875 watts in a 15 amp circuit so either way you go would take several feet to blow a circuit.
Yes, and there is not a direct correlation between the 1 amp per meter draw and what you see at the 120VAC socket. The LED strips are powered by a 12VDC power supply and with my 10 amp one it only requires 3 amps due to the step down in voltage. With my LED “bulbs” they only draw 0.08 amps each and the 10 I have installed only eat up 0.8 amps over the 30’ they cover at Monroe Yard.
@@TheDCCGuy So the 5050 string on that same 30 feet would only draw less than an amp on the 110 Volt side side of the transformer. Just because your Transformers rated at 3 amps on a 110 Volt side doesn't necessarily draw that, it depending on the load. Those lights you're using probably have 5050 LED's in them or something very close to equivalent. If you go with the 5050s there's a lot more customizable options including RGBW's and you can put it in all kinds of channels to diffuse it. Of course it's probably more work than just putting those up but I wouldn't rule ot the 5050 which can be dimmed.
You are correct that the current draw is dependent on the total load however, you need to plan for the maximum. Folks tend to lose track of just how much of a load they are using as they install a bunch of devices and wall warts around the layout. It is very difficult to know just how much of the potential load things like strings of LEDs are actually pulling.
Hi Larry, You might want to buy a "Kill -a-Watt" meter (less than 30 bucks) which you plug into an electrical outlet, then plug your string of lights into it. The meter will tell you how many amps the light or string of lights draw and how many watts they use.
Cool, a new toy, gotta get one, thanks for the tip!
It just arrived and I tested the Barrinas-0.16 amps per 4’ fixture, just as they said. This will definitely be in my next video along with some other electronic gadgets. Thanks again fir the tip.
I would like to see your track plan. What is the title or number of the vlog?
I have been away from the hobby for over 30 years.
I’m going to try to do a Kato N Scale Unitrack Layout and use DCC.
Thanks for the exceptional work you do.
I must say I am a little overwhelmed at all the videos and thinking of what I want to accomplish.
I live near Altoona PA about 2 miles away from the Blair County Convention Center and was just at a train show 3-24-2024. Mostly old trains and no operating Layouts except for a small N Scale Kato.
There will be an NScale Train show September 14 & 15 at the convention center. I hope to get there.
As to DCC I’m leaning towards Digitrax, but would like sound. One Vendor was recommending ESU.
I saw your video on what you use. Any other suggestions or advice?
Thank you
Hi Larry... love your teaching method. Question: what is the distance from the top of the foam on your lower level to the underside of the framing of the upper level in this video?
The foam is 1/2” over 1/2” plywood. I install a 1x2 along the front edge to stiffen it and to hold the fascia. The upper level is supported on steel wall brackets sourced at Lowes.
They look great! BUT: Are they dimmable? I like to run night operations on my layout. The lights I now have are supposed to be dimmable but they only go down to like late afternoon. Turning them off is like midnight in a tunnel.
I don’t remember seeing anything about them being dimmable so likely not, but you could send them a question and see, they were very responsive to my questions.
The top of my layout is 6" from the ceiling. If I mount the lights on the ceiling would that give me enough ligt ? thanks
I would think so but have no way of actually knowing. After all these are designed for residential and even garage lighting. You might read through some of the comments since a few did say they had used these and they might have indicated how high they were mounted.
Larry, how does the light output, brightness, compare to your 60W equivalent light bulbs placed 36” apart? I also use LED light bulbs but I use 100W equivalent placed at 30” apart. I want to make sure the light brightness matches if I go with these LED tubes in your video.
I misspoke in the video since I actually use 40W equivalent LED bulbs at 3’ intervals not 60W equivalents. Still the Barrina 20W LEDs spread evenly over 46” are brighter than my 40W bulbs over 36”. Maybe they use a brighter LED or possibly it is due to them being evenly distributed. I did a test using the 60W equivalent bulbs but they were too bright in my opinion. Part of this apparent difference may be due to the fact that the area under the bulbs is scenicked and much of it is yard tracks which have black cinder ballast which sucks up a lot of light. The new section has just the light green foam insulation board which is much more reflective so I suspect it will dim some once I get busy with the ballast and ground cover.
OK, and adding them under a top deck vs the ceiling above the top deck will also make a difference. So far, I use the bulbs on the ceiling behind a valence. I would love to use these easy to install tubes instead if possible.
Yes, those are installed under the upper deck at the same 15” height. For lighting the upper deck I have recessed cans in the suspended ceiling with 60W equivalent bulbs in them at about 26” over the upper deck. There are 17 of them scatted around the layout. They draw about 1.5 amps combined, gotta love LEDs!
Has anyone had trouble with these affecting their tv reception or wifitrax system?
He got lightsabers
Sorry I meant 6 ft.
One of the things I have found is that a lot of the Chinese lights are not Underwriting Laboratory approved… thus used at risk. Are these UL approved? Nothing mentioned on Amazon that I could find.
It just says they conform to UL std 153.
I have eight of the 8 footers in my garage, 4000k color temperature. I'm going to need 4 more!
I will use these on my MRR.
Funny how they have three wires, hot neutral, and ground, yet the plug only has hot and neutral, no ground. Typical Chinese shenanigans.