I stumbled upon this & love the idea of making a circuit board for my layout & a trolley museum's display layout. I have tried it yet but not so intimidating as I thought. Thanks!!
I believe you said your book and board are available from you as well as Amazon. The link only takes me to Amazon. Thanks for the article and my question. Rick
With a bit of programming know how you could have used an arduino computer which could also be used to control other things. Using a high wattage resistor to dim the lights is a bit inefficient, as you are dumping the energy to dim them on the resistor. You could do it with power MOSFETS also.
Using a computer (even an Arduino) seemed like overkill to me to light a few LEDs. And PWM flickering can be annoying to some people. Using an Arduino or Power MOSFETS would also increase the cost and the current circuit is simple only consumes around 4 watts (total) for all 10 channels. The data is is in my book. The resistors are 1 watt because I wanted to have plenty of margin.
Hi just want to say how much we enjoy your channel, I was wondering if you have a view of the back of this verra strip board you used ? 8:53 in your video 👍
It's indeed a very easy solution but there are more elegant ways to do it nowadays. LED's are current driven devices and it's quite easy to use ICs to build constant current circuits that can have the current value adjusted to control brightness and work almost independently of the supply voltage.
Thats true.. But I always pick simple over elegant if it serves the purpose. And may model rairoaders are not expeirienced with electrnnics. Someone suggested to use a Arduino which seems like overkill to me. thanks for the comment.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutionsMany thanks for your kind reply. Indeed, I was not considering that you are addressing model railroaders that in most cases are not so proficient in electronics and would have a hard time trying to build complex circuits. And fully agree with you: using an Arduino for this purpose is like using an elephant gun to kill mosquitos
Great clip. As a complete novice, this is exactly what I needed. I checked out the link for your book and it is shown as 'Unavailable'. Is there somewhere else I can get my hands on the book?
Hi - I discontinued the black and whit version of the book because it was too difficult to manage two versions and most people bought the color version anyway. Here is the link: a.co/d/eDt9b2X
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions Thanks. But the original link (like this one) is to the colour version and is showing on Amazon as: Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
Update: I didn't realize that the colour version and the B&W version both had a colour cover, hence my confusion. The good news is, I have finally gotten a link that works. It may have been something to do with being in Australia. Cheers
I'm curious as to why are you using such high wattage resistors on the PCB to drive LEDs...LEDs typically draw 20mA for full brightness. I also doubt that the trim pots are rated at the same wattage as the fixed resistor in the voltage divider. The other thing I noticed was that whilst you have used what I'm guessing is 1 or 3 watt resistors, the thickness of the track that all the resistors are connected to is very thin. You could have lowered the trace from the power socket and have the resistors connect directly to that rather than have a thinner trace under it. Also R11 can be a 1/4 watt resistor to drive the red LED, what is there is overkill.
Good questions. Let me try to explain 1. The resistors are 1 watt metal film. Why? Because some folks will use 12vdc and other 20v (which I use myself). If 20v is used ,the wattage = 20v minus the 2v drop across the LED = 18v across the resistor/ Watts = E^2/r or 0.47 watts. Good conservative engineering practice says to use twice dissipated power .. therefore 1Watt 2. Trim pots are not rated the same, nor do they need to be. They are 1K 0.5 watts. and they already have the 680 ohm in series with them. They are like a voltage divider and only have a portion of the voltage across them. worst case about E* 1000/1680 or about .6 *20v or about 12v. or about 0.11 watts 3. I may thicken up the traces in the next rev of the board just to be more conservative. 4, R11 could be a 1/4 watt but with a 2k resistor dissipating 0,16 watts i doubled it to be sure. Overkill is my middle name. All these calculations are in my book if yo care to get a copy. Thanks for the comments. Jack
@@jedijfo Given that most LEDs draw around 20mA for full brightness, the total current draw would be around 200mA for running 10 LEDs. If you used a 1A 7805 regulator (plenty of head room) then you would only need to drop 3v rather than 18v, which means a 150 ohm resistor. Power being Current squared x resistance = 0.06w so using a 1/4w resistor provides ample head room, and would allow you to condense the size of the PCBs dramatically. The caveat is that if someone runs the supply at 20v then 15v drop needs to be handled by the 7805, but modern switch mode pin for pin replacements are more efficient and will run cool.
@@MalcolmCrabbe Its not quite that simple. You need more than 5v to run the Just Plug lights.. In fact some of them are quite dim at 12volts. If I use 5v they would not even light up. The idea is to have a board that is "universal" and can light single LEDs, multiple LEDs, and the just Plug buildings.
You don't have to guess, just listen closley to Jack's Video briefing more than once and also take notes, Jack cits for each channel requiring the following resistor components: 1 ea, a resistor 600 of ohms at 1 watt 1 ea, a Pot of 1K ohmage at the minium of 1/2 watt above are the Resistors for each channel
be cool if we could collaborate on an entire computer controlled system for lighting and locomotives. I have been playing with PIC micros decoding DCC track signals to have an addressable decoder that can drive LEDs, motors (garage doors), servos and other animitronics. All of my work is DIY playing around. I'm a software and electrical guy working in embedded systems. My dream is to finally see realized a new communication bus such as CAN adopted for model railroads so I can have both computer controlled or some highly automated aspects working along side smart throttles. My CAN bus decoders can report back locomotive speed and their track#. I use it as a kind of inventory system. Once a loco is programmed, I can drop it on the track and my PC app can auto detect the loco and add it to a database (if not already) and from there I can control with throttle. If anyone is interested in any of this, perhaps I should produce some videos like yours. I always wondered if others would be interested in this kind of setup. Another personal goal is to have one train controlled by computer and simulate random problems on the layout forcing my throttle control engines to have to take alternate routes and such.... anyway, food for thought for anyone interested....
Wow! Take the fun out of trains.... (Just KIDDING!) What you're doing seems incredible! And I thought a DCC Throttle was high tech. I don't know if I'd ever do something like what you describe, but I'd sure love to see how it's done and watch it in action!
I went this way bc I think a lot if people wanted a simple, inexpensive way to dim a few lights without having to learn coding an Arduino or Rasp Pi. I thought of my situation and thought it would be overkill.
Jack, I keep watching, hoping I can eventually understand enough to light some buildings and then some. I like your channel and that you express alternatives to the “norm!” Thanks for sharing. Does the book come in audio or video options?
No, sorry. Its only paperback (color or black and white). I recently expanded it to include lighting up almost anything you would want to put on your layout. Thanks for your feedback.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions dyslexia (& other issues) makes reading something difficult without really comprehending it. But audiobooks and videos make it easier. Thanks just the same.
Might I give a better, more modern solution that saves on cable, electronics and allows for the absolute most fine grained control? You are already using LED's and the amount of lighting per building is very limited, so basically any led will do. There are addressable LED's available and the one I would like to talk about is the SK6812. This is a RGBW led which, as the name implies, contains a white channel next to the RGB. This way you cannot only simulate normal lighting fixtures, but also can simulate TV lighting. The LED's themselves are daisy chained and are supplied in rolls of 1 to 5 meters, containing up to 144 leds per meter, costing about 15 euro/meter. You don't need to run each LED to your control box, just a single 4 lead wire for each run and extend between each cluster (ie house/building) with a simple 4 wire cable. The electronics couldn't be simpler either, just a simple ESP32 (€4) for sending the electronic signals to the runs. You might need some multiplexers for your switches and potentiometers if you want to go old fashion, or so fully modern with smartphone or tablet control. There are many examples out there, you don't need to program anything, it's all been done for you. You just need to assemble the software components like building blocks,
Thank you for your suggestions. I will explore the concept. My goal was to develop a cheap, simple method for controlling led lighting in buildings. While I considered more sophisticated methods for my own layout including using an Arduino and Raspberry Pi, I thought this would be too overwhelming for the average model railroader to build and operate. Even with the simple methods in my book, I got a couple of comments that the ideas were useless and not simple because they had no idea how to read a wiring diagram. Those folks like to focus on scenery building. Asking them to understand and operate using a code based system would be a lot for most folks. I have had a fair number of people contact me for additional info for this system. And I think it is simple. Again thanks for the suggestions and I will look at it.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions Oh trust me, you can never please everyone and I can understand you reasoning for building simple and cheap. And your idea is really simple, that much is true. Useless? Ignore those comments, I was thought analog electronics in school and I can fully understand your reasoning. I also went to study advanced computer programming later on, so I have both skills to rely on. But consider your audience. Understanding schematics and soldering PCB's isn't the average skillset and just soldering wires to switches and potentiometers is in essence a lot simpler. Even more so if you consider SMD components. That is why I suggested my method, because that mostly elimates the PCB work and reduces it to mere wires. You can buy all components preassembled for a dime and would become a lot cheaper per LED. These days there are so many options available you need the occasional hint and help from strangers to nudge your thinking. So what about the required programming skillset? Yes, programming itself is hard, but the Arduino platform made things a lot more accessible for mere mortals. If you can solder, you can also plug in a USB programmer, change a few numbers and hit upload. I can make a very simple arduino program with a configuration section to connect leds to switches and programmed behavior and have the actual programming code seperated to be looked at and decide you never want to touch it . That way you can help the ones that just want a switch to light configuration. If you have looked into it and you want to explore it further I can surely help you with the outline of the programming portion. Now those with real programming skills or the wish to learn can go completely bananas with smartphones, AI, replicating the day/light cycle of their local town. That is not within the scope of your (or my) idea of simple.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions Oh and for your personal more advanced arduino raspberry pi idea, I might also have a suggestion for that. I'll just list the components and I'll leave it to you to combine the idea and figure it out. - Raspberry pi with Node Red installed. A really advanced drag and drop GUI for connecting arduino devices and more. Also allows easy integration with tablets and such. - Home Assistent Optionally if you so please as it integrates with Node Red like a glove. Both options almost completely eliminate the need for programming. - ESP32 with ESPhome installed. A preprogrammed arduino like device with much higher clockspeed, more IO and WiFi connected. And it costs the same as an arduino too. - cd74hc4067 for analog multiplexing potentiometer inputs - PCF8575 i2c I/O multiplexer for switches. - SK6812 RGBWW ledstrips - Lr7843 mosfet module for high power requirements. All these things can be had from a certain chinese webshop that starts with AL for a dime. And you can control anything and everything without any real programming, just clicking around in a webbased GUI. You can go completely crazy and make a model scale tesla coil and control that using this system. Oh yes please I'd love to see a small scale tesla coil.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions Oh and if you really want crazy ideas. I just spotted a current sensor on my bench and my brain went full creative mode. If you take a INA219 module, you can sense the voltage of a rail section and currents down to 1mA. These modules are again pennies, communicate using i2c so few wires, but you will gain a highly precise block detection. The ideas are endless like a digitally controlled switch and signal control panel. Imagine the ease of wiring, no more chasing analog gremlins. You can detect weak voltages in your track requiring cable maintenance, you can detect a change in power consumption signaling a loc needs maintenance. Or a deviations in power between blocks signalling track maintenance.
I'm afraid you lost my attention when you mentioned a half watt potentiometer and a 24v supply. Milliwatt LEDs can be driven with as little as 3 volts!
Thats true, however. As I mentioned in my book, this circuit is designed to power single Leds (with external resistors), LEDs chips with built in on board resistors, LED strips (from Amazon) and pre-built Just Plug buildings. You cannot do all that with 3 volts. I have recommened that a Laptop power brick fo 15-19v. is ideal... You can try 12volts, but not all Just Plug building wiil work., And I have a lot of those. Hope I got you attention back.
I stumbled upon this & love the idea of making a circuit board for my layout & a trolley museum's display layout.
I have tried it yet but not so intimidating as I thought.
Thanks!!
Very well done. Thank you Jack. I just ordered your book.
thanks
I believe you said your book and board are available from you as well as Amazon. The link only takes me to Amazon. Thanks for the article and my question. Rick
Yes, send me an email at tomswift9748@gmail.com. I have boards and parts available.
send me an email at tomswift9748@gmail.com
Excellent information.
Just received your book.
Thanks again.
Thank you for your video. Ordered your book today.
thanks ! Please leave me a review if you like it.
Brilliant and beautiful engineering.
thank you
With a bit of programming know how you could have used an arduino computer which could also be used to control other things. Using a high wattage resistor to dim the lights is a bit inefficient, as you are dumping the energy to dim them on the resistor. You could do it with power MOSFETS also.
Using a computer (even an Arduino) seemed like overkill to me to light a few LEDs. And PWM flickering can be annoying to some people. Using an Arduino or Power MOSFETS would also increase the cost and the current circuit is simple only consumes around 4 watts (total) for all 10 channels. The data is is in my book. The resistors are 1 watt because I wanted to have plenty of margin.
Hi just want to say how much we enjoy your channel, I was wondering if you have a view of the back of this verra strip board you used ? 8:53 in your video 👍
Thank you. I don’t have a view on that strip because I had some circuit boards made up which made it much easier to build the boards.
It's indeed a very easy solution but there are more elegant ways to do it nowadays. LED's are current driven devices and it's quite easy to use ICs to build constant current circuits that can have the current value adjusted to control brightness and work almost independently of the supply voltage.
Thats true.. But I always pick simple over elegant if it serves the purpose. And may model rairoaders are not expeirienced with electrnnics. Someone suggested to use a Arduino which seems like overkill to me. thanks for the comment.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutionsMany thanks for your kind reply. Indeed, I was not considering that you are addressing model railroaders that in most cases are not so proficient in electronics and would have a hard time trying to build complex circuits. And fully agree with you: using an Arduino for this purpose is like using an elephant gun to kill mosquitos
I bought your book from Amazon. Looking forward to reading and building
thank you
Thanks for sharing this video and your book which I used the link to order it from Amazon.
Your use of pref boards is amazing and informative.
thanks
Excellent circuit
thanks
My comment below was requesting a responce from the Practical Engineer about his book
Sorry. What was your question?
Thanks! And that looks like an interesting book, I ordered a copy right away.
Hope you enjoy it!
That is insanely cool. Thanks man!
Glad you like it!
Yes! Thank you sir. Your vary smart. I’m so happy I ran a cross this video! Me and my layout thank you 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Great clip. As a complete novice, this is exactly what I needed.
I checked out the link for your book and it is shown as 'Unavailable'. Is there somewhere else I can get my hands on the book?
Hi - I discontinued the black and whit version of the book because it was too difficult to manage two versions and most people bought the color version anyway. Here is the link:
a.co/d/eDt9b2X
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions
Thanks. But the original link (like this one) is to the colour version and is showing on Amazon as:
Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
Update:
I didn't realize that the colour version and the B&W version both had a colour cover, hence my confusion.
The good news is, I have finally gotten a link that works. It may have been something to do with being in Australia.
Cheers
You are right. It is confusing. That's how Amazon does it though. Another reason for me to eliminate the B&W version.
Maybe there is an Amazon Australia site ? The link above is the US Site.
I'm curious as to why are you using such high wattage resistors on the PCB to drive LEDs...LEDs typically draw 20mA for full brightness. I also doubt that the trim pots are rated at the same wattage as the fixed resistor in the voltage divider. The other thing I noticed was that whilst you have used what I'm guessing is 1 or 3 watt resistors, the thickness of the track that all the resistors are connected to is very thin. You could have lowered the trace from the power socket and have the resistors connect directly to that rather than have a thinner trace under it. Also R11 can be a 1/4 watt resistor to drive the red LED, what is there is overkill.
Good questions. Let me try to explain
1. The resistors are 1 watt metal film. Why? Because some folks will use 12vdc and other 20v (which I use myself). If 20v is used ,the wattage = 20v minus the 2v drop across the LED = 18v across the resistor/ Watts = E^2/r or 0.47 watts. Good conservative engineering practice says to use twice dissipated power .. therefore 1Watt
2. Trim pots are not rated the same, nor do they need to be. They are 1K 0.5 watts. and they already have the 680 ohm in series with them. They are like a voltage divider and only have a portion of the voltage across them. worst case about E* 1000/1680 or about .6 *20v or about 12v. or about 0.11 watts
3. I may thicken up the traces in the next rev of the board just to be more conservative.
4, R11 could be a 1/4 watt but with a 2k resistor dissipating 0,16 watts i doubled it to be sure. Overkill is my middle name. All these calculations are in my book if yo care to get a copy.
Thanks for the comments. Jack
@@jedijfo Given that most LEDs draw around 20mA for full brightness, the total current draw would be around 200mA for running 10 LEDs. If you used a 1A 7805 regulator (plenty of head room) then you would only need to drop 3v rather than 18v, which means a 150 ohm resistor.
Power being Current squared x resistance = 0.06w so using a 1/4w resistor provides ample head room, and would allow you to condense the size of the PCBs dramatically.
The caveat is that if someone runs the supply at 20v then 15v drop needs to be handled by the 7805, but modern switch mode pin for pin replacements are more efficient and will run cool.
@@MalcolmCrabbe Its not quite that simple. You need more than 5v to run the Just Plug lights.. In fact some of them are quite dim at 12volts. If I use 5v they would not even light up. The idea is to have a board that is "universal" and can light single LEDs, multiple LEDs, and the just Plug buildings.
You don't have to guess, just listen closley to Jack's Video briefing more than once and also take notes, Jack cits for each channel requiring the following resistor components:
1 ea, a resistor 600 of ohms at 1 watt
1 ea, a Pot of 1K ohmage at the minium of 1/2 watt
above are the Resistors for each channel
I wish I understood electronics more.
be cool if we could collaborate on an entire computer controlled system for lighting and locomotives. I have been playing with PIC micros decoding DCC track signals to have an addressable decoder that can drive LEDs, motors (garage doors), servos and other animitronics. All of my work is DIY playing around. I'm a software and electrical guy working in embedded systems. My dream is to finally see realized a new communication bus such as CAN adopted for model railroads so I can have both computer controlled or some highly automated aspects working along side smart throttles. My CAN bus decoders can report back locomotive speed and their track#. I use it as a kind of inventory system. Once a loco is programmed, I can drop it on the track and my PC app can auto detect the loco and add it to a database (if not already) and from there I can control with throttle. If anyone is interested in any of this, perhaps I should produce some videos like yours. I always wondered if others would be interested in this kind of setup. Another personal goal is to have one train controlled by computer and simulate random problems on the layout forcing my throttle control engines to have to take alternate routes and such.... anyway, food for thought for anyone interested....
Wow! Take the fun out of trains.... (Just KIDDING!) What you're doing seems incredible! And I thought a DCC Throttle was high tech. I don't know if I'd ever do something like what you describe, but I'd sure love to see how it's done and watch it in action!
@@chadportenga7858 ok, thanks for the feedback.
Curiosity Question. Why did you decied to go this route instead of a controler board such as an Arduino?
I went this way bc I think a lot if people wanted a simple, inexpensive way to dim a few lights without having to learn coding an Arduino or Rasp Pi. I thought of my situation and thought it would be overkill.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions thank you still reading your book
Hello, this is a nice/interesting video. Can you give me a link/address where I can buy that printed circuit board? Thank you in advance.
Sure - send me an email at tomswift9748@gmail.com. The current batch is $8 each plus postage thru Paypal.. Jack
Jack, I keep watching, hoping I can eventually understand enough to light some buildings and then some. I like your channel and that you express alternatives to the “norm!” Thanks for sharing. Does the book come in audio or video options?
No, sorry. Its only paperback (color or black and white). I recently expanded it to include lighting up almost anything you would want to put on your layout. Thanks for your feedback.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions dyslexia (& other issues) makes reading something difficult without really comprehending it. But audiobooks and videos make it easier. Thanks just the same.
Might I give a better, more modern solution that saves on cable, electronics and allows for the absolute most fine grained control?
You are already using LED's and the amount of lighting per building is very limited, so basically any led will do. There are addressable LED's available and the one I would like to talk about is the SK6812. This is a RGBW led which, as the name implies, contains a white channel next to the RGB. This way you cannot only simulate normal lighting fixtures, but also can simulate TV lighting.
The LED's themselves are daisy chained and are supplied in rolls of 1 to 5 meters, containing up to 144 leds per meter, costing about 15 euro/meter. You don't need to run each LED to your control box, just a single 4 lead wire for each run and extend between each cluster (ie house/building) with a simple 4 wire cable. The electronics couldn't be simpler either, just a simple ESP32 (€4) for sending the electronic signals to the runs. You might need some multiplexers for your switches and potentiometers if you want to go old fashion, or so fully modern with smartphone or tablet control. There are many examples out there, you don't need to program anything, it's all been done for you. You just need to assemble the software components like building blocks,
Thank you for your suggestions. I will explore the concept. My goal was to develop a cheap, simple method for controlling led lighting in buildings. While I considered more sophisticated methods for my own layout including using an Arduino and Raspberry Pi, I thought this would be too overwhelming for the average model railroader to build and operate. Even with the simple methods in my book, I got a couple of comments that the ideas were useless and not simple because they had no idea how to read a wiring diagram. Those folks like to focus on scenery building. Asking them to understand and operate using a code based system would be a lot for most folks. I have had a fair number of people contact me for additional info for this system. And I think it is simple. Again thanks for the suggestions and I will look at it.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions Oh trust me, you can never please everyone and I can understand you reasoning for building simple and cheap. And your idea is really simple, that much is true. Useless? Ignore those comments, I was thought analog electronics in school and I can fully understand your reasoning. I also went to study advanced computer programming later on, so I have both skills to rely on.
But consider your audience. Understanding schematics and soldering PCB's isn't the average skillset and just soldering wires to switches and potentiometers is in essence a lot simpler. Even more so if you consider SMD components. That is why I suggested my method, because that mostly elimates the PCB work and reduces it to mere wires. You can buy all components preassembled for a dime and would become a lot cheaper per LED. These days there are so many options available you need the occasional hint and help from strangers to nudge your thinking.
So what about the required programming skillset? Yes, programming itself is hard, but the Arduino platform made things a lot more accessible for mere mortals. If you can solder, you can also plug in a USB programmer, change a few numbers and hit upload. I can make a very simple arduino program with a configuration section to connect leds to switches and programmed behavior and have the actual programming code seperated to be looked at and decide you never want to touch it . That way you can help the ones that just want a switch to light configuration. If you have looked into it and you want to explore it further I can surely help you with the outline of the programming portion.
Now those with real programming skills or the wish to learn can go completely bananas with smartphones, AI, replicating the day/light cycle of their local town. That is not within the scope of your (or my) idea of simple.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions Oh and for your personal more advanced arduino raspberry pi idea, I might also have a suggestion for that. I'll just list the components and I'll leave it to you to combine the idea and figure it out.
- Raspberry pi with Node Red installed. A really advanced drag and drop GUI for connecting arduino devices and more. Also allows easy integration with tablets and such.
- Home Assistent Optionally if you so please as it integrates with Node Red like a glove. Both options almost completely eliminate the need for programming.
- ESP32 with ESPhome installed. A preprogrammed arduino like device with much higher clockspeed, more IO and WiFi connected. And it costs the same as an arduino too.
- cd74hc4067 for analog multiplexing potentiometer inputs
- PCF8575 i2c I/O multiplexer for switches.
- SK6812 RGBWW ledstrips
- Lr7843 mosfet module for high power requirements.
All these things can be had from a certain chinese webshop that starts with AL for a dime. And you can control anything and everything without any real programming, just clicking around in a webbased GUI. You can go completely crazy and make a model scale tesla coil and control that using this system. Oh yes please I'd love to see a small scale tesla coil.
@@PracticalEngineeringSolutions Oh and if you really want crazy ideas. I just spotted a current sensor on my bench and my brain went full creative mode.
If you take a INA219 module, you can sense the voltage of a rail section and currents down to 1mA. These modules are again pennies, communicate using i2c so few wires, but you will gain a highly precise block detection. The ideas are endless like a digitally controlled switch and signal control panel. Imagine the ease of wiring, no more chasing analog gremlins.
You can detect weak voltages in your track requiring cable maintenance, you can detect a change in power consumption signaling a loc needs maintenance. Or a deviations in power between blocks signalling track maintenance.
@@patrickd9551 Very interesting. Thanks for the ideas
THANK YOU
In reality some street lights have a problem and flicker. So a circuit to randomly flash an LED but at lower brightness
I'm afraid you lost my attention when you mentioned a half watt potentiometer and a 24v supply. Milliwatt LEDs can be driven with as little as 3 volts!
Thats true, however. As I mentioned in my book, this circuit is designed to power single Leds (with external resistors), LEDs chips with built in on board resistors, LED strips (from Amazon) and pre-built Just Plug buildings. You cannot do all that with 3 volts. I have recommened that a Laptop power brick fo 15-19v. is ideal... You can try 12volts, but not all Just Plug building wiil work., And I have a lot of those. Hope I got you attention back.