Excellent Ron! The DPM structure series is absolutely classic, and make for perfect buildings by following the instructions or kitbashing. I like your suggestion of canopy glue for the windows! I bought some years ago but never found it useful. This window installantion scenario makes for a perfect situation for its application. And yes, I have had mistakes in weathering that have actually turned out for the better. Fantastic work along with the tutorial.
Ron. Try using a piece of frosted scotch tape over the back side of some of the windows to diffuse the light on some of the windows. See if you like the effect!
Just a great informative video, Ron. Having moved from HO to N scale, painting windows on DPM models has been daunting. The brush will definitely help...thanks for that tip. I agree, while the Plug system is very attractive, the cost is prohibitive...well for me. Again...thank you for this video.
Ron, I have never watch one of your videos that I have gained skills and lots of knowledge about building model railroading. Thank You ! Oh do do any HO 1/87 scale ?
That was fantastic, I have used DPM kits as a matter of fact my city seen are all DPM. I like the room's. This looked really fun to build. Thanks Ron it was a great session. Learned a lot. And the shirt is still great too
Watching you paint the windows you should consider thinning the paint with water. It may require a second layer or two of paint, but brush control and accuracy is sooooooo much easier!
I had to double take when I saw the thumbnail - that hotel looked very familiar! Those LED lighting accessories are though incredibly expensive for what they are, and you're very right to bring up Arduinos as an alternative. I mean kudos to WS for packaging up very cheap circuits... but with an Arduino and a cheap LED driver board (e.g. PCA9685) you can do everything WS can do, and more, for a lot less. They're not difficult, as I'm sure you could show with a video.
Great video. I love the just plug stuff, it may be expensive but not having to deal with lighting things myself has been really nice. I even use their system for some of my own custom lighting by using their linker plugs.
On my last layout I had about 10-12 structures lit. Store fronts, outside lights front and back, and individual rooms up stairs. If you are doing a DPM kit check the back wall, If it is going to be seen add a door and maybe 2 doors, one for each floor. Add stairs also. Some store fronts have 2 entrances. I wall off the 2nd one from the rest of the store and add a stair case inside and then of course a light and maybe a figure. Ok back to lighting. All this was done back in grain of wheat days also. I use 1.5v bulbs. Added extra wire to the leads or in some cases soldered them to a bus wire inside the building and ran the wires down thru the benchwork. I used terminal strips to connect all the wires and ran a variable power supply wall wart from Radio Shack, to the terminal strip. You can get them from Walmart these days. The key is to make sure one of the voltage choices is 1 volt. The more lights you have hooked to a power supply the dimmer the light is going to be. Keep in mind that before LEDs came along indoor lighting was a lot dimmer then it is now. Same with street lights. And these can be hooked up the same way. Thanks Ron for another great video.
Maybe you've already done it and I'm just missing the video, but if you don't have one I'd love to see some how to videos on the DIY lighting system you suggested as an alternative to the WS Just Plug system. Obviously only if you yourself have interest an in making something like that, but i'll make sure to give you 1 view if no one else is interested (or more than 1 since I find myself coming back to rewatch your videos over and over as refreshers and to respark ideas you've provided) haha
I will be doing a lot of lighting of structures and animated lighting effects (welders, camp fires, etc.) in the near future using Arduinos and I will be making videos on all of them when I do.
Hi, Ron. I tried something the other day with the metal model assembly tray from Micro-Mart. I got tired of having my work stick to the metal tray so I took and sprayed it with cheap vegetable spray and wiped it down and my parts don't stick anymore and if I get a big old glob of glue on the tray it just wipes right off. Wish I did this when I first bought the tray. I have some areas that I have the globs and have scraped it off but left scratch marks behind.
i reverse engineered the just plug system and can do a board for 30 lights for the same price as one just plug module for 4 i also made my own roomettes in ms publisher so much cheaper ! as for sequencing system i have ws2812 neo pixels and an arduino a brilliant way of sequencing via a bit of code so much cheaper too! good build though RON
I agree with washing the structure pieces prior to painting, but I personally would be wearing gloves when doing that because I feel that if you want to remove fingerprints and oils that you should be wearing gloves while washing the parts
Nice job, but this is one example of a hobby for old guys with pensions or other means - -not really for a child unless it is XMAS. I fear that this hoppy has melded into a hobby for the older modeler and is very difficult in general for a father to lay out todays prices to get his child into the hobby. I go to shows and there is a ton of gray hair if you know what I mean.
I think there is a place and products for the father-son experience, but yes, much of what you see in hobby news is heard toward the adult, serious modeler.
See how I build a beautiful wood craftsman structure kit in this video: ruclips.net/video/aaaAjPUa154/видео.html
Excellent Ron! The DPM structure series is absolutely classic, and make for perfect buildings by following the instructions or kitbashing. I like your suggestion of canopy glue for the windows! I bought some years ago but never found it useful. This window installantion scenario makes for a perfect situation for its application. And yes, I have had mistakes in weathering that have actually turned out for the better. Fantastic work along with the tutorial.
Nice shirt Ron!! Looking really classes.
Ron, you just make it look easy. Thanks for sharing, David
thank you other detail video as good watching every time
Looks great nice build Ron 😀👍
Great job Ron!
Very cool demonstration. Thank you!
HELLO RON ITS IS RANDY AND I LIKE U VIDEO IS COOL THANKS RON FRIENDS RANDY AND BUILD A MODEL STRUCURE WITH INTERIOR AND LIGHT IS COOL RON THANKS RANDY
Yes, I plan to add blinds and some figures to this structure to give it some more life.
Thats really cool, i like the randomization of the lighting.
Ron. Try using a piece of frosted scotch tape over the back side of some of the windows to diffuse the light on some of the windows. See if you like the effect!
Hello Ron. Nicely done.
I use the blue painters tape to hold things in place like dock and roll up doors. Glad to see other use it for modeling too
Very good tips Ron. As someone who is just starting out these tips help alot
Just a great informative video, Ron. Having moved from HO to N scale, painting windows on DPM models has been daunting. The brush will definitely help...thanks for that tip. I agree, while the Plug system is very attractive, the cost is prohibitive...well for me. Again...thank you for this video.
Yep, sometimes you have to find a cheaper way.
Great video! Thanks!
Ron, I have never watch one of your videos that I have gained skills and lots of knowledge about building model railroading. Thank You ! Oh do do any HO 1/87 scale ?
Hi Jerry. I have a small switching layout in Hi that I have just started. Watch for more HO videos to come.
Nice Video Ron and really good suggestions.
Mike
Superb system ! Well done . This video is very instructive !
That was fantastic, I have used DPM kits as a matter of fact my city seen are all DPM. I like the room's. This looked really fun to build. Thanks Ron it was a great session. Learned a lot. And the shirt is still great too
Great video!
Great build & detailing video, Ron! I think Woodland Scenics has come up with a really good product here by bundling these components together.
Yes, they make a good kit with all included.
Nice video and lighting - I use them too. Ooo next time you should add some blinds or shades in the windows too... keep up the great work.
Watching you paint the windows you should consider thinning the paint with water. It may require a second layer or two of paint, but brush control and accuracy is sooooooo much easier!
Eres increíble maestro! Un saludo desde España!
Gracias
I had to double take when I saw the thumbnail - that hotel looked very familiar! Those LED lighting accessories are though incredibly expensive for what they are, and you're very right to bring up Arduinos as an alternative. I mean kudos to WS for packaging up very cheap circuits... but with an Arduino and a cheap LED driver board (e.g. PCA9685) you can do everything WS can do, and more, for a lot less. They're not difficult, as I'm sure you could show with a video.
I intend to model and video lighting effects in structures as well as animates welder, camp fire, and more all using arduino in the near future.
Great video. I love the just plug stuff, it may be expensive but not having to deal with lighting things myself has been really nice. I even use their system for some of my own custom lighting by using their linker plugs.
Nice Ron! I use the roomettes in HO and love em. They can be modified for other kits too with a little work.
On my last layout I had about 10-12 structures lit. Store fronts, outside lights front and back, and individual rooms up stairs. If you are doing a DPM kit check the back wall, If it is going to be seen add a door and maybe 2 doors, one for each floor. Add stairs also. Some store fronts have 2 entrances. I wall off the 2nd one from the rest of the store and add a stair case inside and then of course a light and maybe a figure.
Ok back to lighting. All this was done back in grain of wheat days also. I use 1.5v bulbs. Added extra wire to the leads or in some cases soldered them to a bus wire inside the building and ran the wires down thru the benchwork. I used terminal strips to connect all the wires and ran a variable power supply wall wart from Radio Shack, to the terminal strip. You can get them from Walmart these days. The key is to make sure one of the voltage choices is 1 volt. The more lights you have hooked to a power supply the dimmer the light is going to be.
Keep in mind that before LEDs came along indoor lighting was a lot dimmer then it is now. Same with street lights. And these can be hooked up the same way.
Thanks Ron for another great video.
Great video ron!I'm going to have to pick up one of these kits. BTW I'm pretty sure that I live along the BNSF line you model!
Great video. I like the brown building that you har to the left of the building you did. i assume that is also a kit bashed from other kits?
That is a Lunde Studios resin kit. The only bashing I did there was cut it in half so the front and back are 2 separate structures.
Maybe you've already done it and I'm just missing the video, but if you don't have one I'd love to see some how to videos on the DIY lighting system you suggested as an alternative to the WS Just Plug system. Obviously only if you yourself have interest an in making something like that, but i'll make sure to give you 1 view if no one else is interested (or more than 1 since I find myself coming back to rewatch your videos over and over as refreshers and to respark ideas you've provided) haha
I will be doing a lot of lighting of structures and animated lighting effects (welders, camp fires, etc.) in the near future using Arduinos and I will be making videos on all of them when I do.
Ron, thanks for another fantastic video! Could you please let me know what brand of magnetic clamps you’re using here? I appreciate your help. Thanks!
Bachmann/Proses 39009 - Magnetic Snap and Glue Set
They are available at www.midwestmodelrr.com among other places.
@@RonsTrainsNThings thank you for the information!
Hi, Ron. I tried something the other day with the metal model assembly tray from Micro-Mart. I got tired of having my work stick to the metal tray so I took and sprayed it with cheap vegetable spray and wiped it down and my parts don't stick anymore and if I get a big old glob of glue on the tray it just wipes right off. Wish I did this when I first bought the tray. I have some areas that I have the globs and have scraped it off but left scratch marks behind.
i reverse engineered the just plug system and can do a board for 30 lights for the same price as one just plug module for 4 i also made my own roomettes in ms publisher so much cheaper ! as for sequencing system i have ws2812 neo pixels and an arduino a brilliant way of sequencing via a bit of code so much cheaper too! good build though RON
Those lighting hubs are nice, but they're crazy expensive.
I can't argue there.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Love the video Ron. I'm getting ready to light an HO Scale Christmas village and this was very helpful. Thanks!
Neat
I agree with washing the structure pieces prior to painting, but I personally would be wearing gloves when doing that because I feel that if you want to remove fingerprints and oils that you should be wearing gloves while washing the parts
I'm back, Bob Cooney
Salt Lake City
Utah
Welcome back, Bob.
Wow, an awful lot of work. My layout is like the entire town was hit with a major power outage.
and in "N" scale, my eyes say no
Nice job, but this is one example of a hobby for old guys with pensions or other means - -not really for a child unless it is XMAS. I fear that this hoppy has melded into a hobby for the older modeler and is very difficult in general for a father to lay out todays prices to get his child into the hobby. I go to shows and there is a ton of gray hair if you know what I mean.
I think there is a place and products for the father-son experience, but yes, much of what you see in hobby news is heard toward the adult, serious modeler.