Here's the full video on the repair panels being made, they also used a beautiful 760 to make the correct shape, well worth a watch! ruclips.net/video/g-3mOcIiGn0/видео.html
I do use MIG welding these days but when I got my first car in 1982 it had crusty rear arches and I stuck new arches on with fibreglass! That was when they were old bangers rather than classic cars.
Have to do this on the passenger side of my 740. I actually had to have a section of the passenger frame rail replaced before winter so it would pass state safety inspection. I really should start making videos about it and the journey with it.
WOW! Whiteland certainly KNOWS what they're doing! You've got real backup there, send them something of great value for Christmas, something VOLVO of course!
Dow corning silicone is another good choice also..has a 25 year lifespan although in freezing temperatures silicine can sometimes be an issue..But if it does the job then excellent...I myself cannot weld so an alternative is always welcome...another great video from you and thank you.
Nice job Sledge - especially considering the circumstances (no electricity, no space, sh*te weather) and it should be okay for the TÜV - pedants 😂. I'm not a huge Volvo fan but I really like what you're doing. Keep it coming!!!
I think your repair was spot-on. Rotted floors are foreign to me living here in Alabama. If it does ever snow or ice they just spread sand, not salt. Also, I keep my 240 in the garage when there are bad conditions outside. Really enjoyed the Whiteland Restoration video on making the panels too!
It sounds like heaven 😅 I try to keep mine off the roads in bad conditions, but even today I took the 240 for a rip in the wet and rain because I missed driving her, can't help it! And thanks I'll let them know 👍
Sledge I did this with my Opel Kadett/Holden Gemini floor. I used panel bond by 3M 6 months ago, many people will say NO! but there are a lot of people backing bonding Adhesives with testimonies that the join will tear first, rather than to pull away from where it was bonded. Good job! And great idea to have the port holes to keep check on the rails beneath!!!!!
Whatever the sealant glue that Mercedes used in the seventies for the mudguards, would do today. Took me two days of heat and perseverance to detach one front damaged mudguard from a W123. I had a replacement from a parts car. I ended up angle grinding that one off about an inch inside the skirt. Then another couple days separating from the metal strip still attached. . Worst job I have ever encountered. Lol
I had rust on my 240 in the same spots and repaired it in nearly the same way. Mine holes were smaller and on an area where i could just bend the panels up myself with a simple harbor freight break. Guled the panels in with some liquid nails, sealed them and added a bed liner spray paint on both sides. It was only a month ago so i can't say for long term, only time will tell. Good luck with the project!
Would have done the same thing in your situation. While not ideal, it'll certaily be strong enough as a floor. Whiteland continuing to put out some awesome stuff too.
I think you did a great job considering what you had to work with! Plus the folks that made those panels sure saved some fab time. I have a similar headache to tackle once winter has left us. Cheers m8!
They so did, I thought "oh I'll just buy some thin sheet steel and cut something to fit..." Not that easy, I would have really struggled without them. Thanks, good luck with yours, waiting until warmer weather, sensible 😄
Great work, and video, many thanks. I just took the carpets off my 1996/293k miles UK registered 940 for the first time since I bought it 16 years ago, and I was lucky in that there were only a couple of small holes in the rear foot wells which I covered with fiberglass patches
I did a similar job on my old Corolla a year ago... I used body seal instead of panel adhesive + panel screws and rivets. It holds fine... I used 18 gauge metal. Now a day, I am hooked on welding; I might go back to it and weld a patch this spring... We will see. As old Mark Twain was saying: «If the pump works, don't fix it»... Take care.
Hey, your right. It's not the best fix. But It's better to have a floor in your Volvo, than no floor at all. Glue can be realy strong, but glue dosent harden if it's to cold. I realy Hope your glue is strong and will hold. Best of luck.
Great potato metaphor :-) Beautifully made repair panels. Great bit of lateral thinking to heat the adhesive. Fingers crossed it is acceptable to the inspection people. Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year to you and Miss Involvo'd.
I think this is alternative thinking and if it works then why is it a stupid idea? If Airbus are happy to glue planes together then I'm sure the floor pan of a car is a walk in the park. It's current technology and worth a shot and it is very interesting to see how it works! Good on you fella!!
@@Involvod the chassis of many Lotus cars, Opel/Vauxhall Speedster and Tesla Roadster are glued together as well. Also, millions of cars use adhesive for windscreens, rear window glass. A floormanager is not part of the load bearing structure. It'll work just fine provided you use the proper (probably expensive) adhesive.
Good job mate! These panels are so nicely made. Thanks for showing the other way of doing it! It's a job that I will have to face on springtime😂. It will be great oportunity to learn welding and fabrication😃. Anyway let's keep those bricks on the road! Have a great christmas time at Involvod team!😃
Thanks mate! There seems to be a few people here facing the same work next year, much more sensible than doing it mid winter 😄 Good luck with it, I'm hoping to learn to weld too as soon as I get a better workspace. Thanks from us both and same to you!
Also don't feel bad about this "bodge" its tiying what it needs to into the floor and giving it back its structure arguably as well as some pigeon welding and it keeps it on the road, a slightly rusty car on the road is better then one in a scrap pile by any means!
It's dangerous there's a reason why it's welded it all forms part of the strength of the car. It's not panels built on a ladder chassis like a land rover. Even a land rover has a steel bulk head that has to be welded if it rots out
I was going to suggest before putting in the floorplans, rustproof the lower bottom to prevent the rust from attacking the car,and on the newly built floorplans, also rustproof it to add more protection,since you have experience from a 245 wagon that was rusted,good luck.
Hey there i think you are being too hard on yourself , at the end of the day its a solid repair that will keep the car useable thats what matters, hat of to you i think you did a good solid repair and enjoyed watching , btw what type panel bond did you use and what sort of price ?
Thank you, really appreciate that! I wanted to use Sikaflax 552 I think it was, but I couldn't get it in time so I used a similar product that was in the store, similar price point. To be honest 3m probably would have been the best but there doesn't seem to be much choice here
I use glue a lot on doors, fenders, yet not large parts of the floor. It did pass TUV with this repair? I would expect that it had to be welded in to pass the TUV test...
With difficulty 😅 There's a bolt holding it in on the side of the centre console, and another (one or two) you've probably seen in view, then a lot of twisting and turning, only remove it if you really have to as I struggled to refit it too!
@@Involvod Thanks man, that's helpful. I'm doing a similar repair (floor well rust) so sadly it's necessary. Just pulled the fusebox out and have it ziptied to the HVAC controls. Wish me luck with the rest haha
An MOT fail by UK standards, as they specifically state no panel adhesive unless it was originally fitted with adhesive - If they can see it... One of those jobs where the "bodge" is 90% of the effort of actually welding it, but without power/a welder you're out of options. I've been known to resort to... "Alternative repair methods" and thick underseal on my Triumphs to scrape an MOT pass before now. I still rely on being able to borrow indoor space to carry out welding repairs, never good... Using adhesive on something like the Volvo's floorpan is kind of a moral grey area. Technically it's part of the monocoque, so structural, but in the case of the Volvo almost all the strength is in the chassis rail/outriggers/sills. So it's not exactly going to fall apart driving down the road, but it may fold oddly in a crash, so erm... Don't crash it? I don't envy your working in minus temps without power, I was re-fitting my 740's interior the other night at about 3C and it was GRIM.
I wish road salt was banned and another option was used for ice. We supposedly have a "climate crisis", yet those who say we have such an issue do not care about all the resources to make a car only to replace it every 5 years.... We should be trying to make car last an average of 50 years!
the floor have a structural role to play in the life of the car, better to keep it welded, to use automotive structural glues, the surfaces must be well prepared and perfectly clean metal, I doupt that you can obtain these conditions on a pitted sheet metal surface.
Well done Involv'd - good work - and have a safe Christmas. But could you please clarify the legality of this regarding MOT - in Germany or UK? I thought that floors had to have seam welds - end of story. What are the parameters - eg - proximity to seat belt mounts or jacking points or what?
Hey Just went back to this video to see which converter you're using. (some need to be neutralised afterwards which seems like a pain) Any recommendations (zinc spray etc)? It's for just your general surface rust on non visible parts of the car type of job. Greetings from the Netherlands!
Hey, I used Jenolite, but to be honest I use Fluid Film wherever possible, it works a treat. The problem with rust converters is the rust can come back through as it doesn't always get totally converted especially if the rust is deep. Bare metal I use any half decent zinc spray and then undercoat and fluid film over the top of that. Hope this helps!
This is more than helpful. Just starting out myself. Got my first car this summer after having had a license for three years, a 245. They’re so great to work on! Your stuffs really helpful. (mostly entertaining though, in a good way ;)
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Here's the full video on the repair panels being made, they also used a beautiful 760 to make the correct shape, well worth a watch! ruclips.net/video/g-3mOcIiGn0/видео.html
That repair ain't bad.
I'll definitely give whiteland restorations a watch. Also, a glued floor is better than no floor. If it works it woks!
Thanks, I appreciate that 👍
Everything is better than no floor, even a rotted one.
At the end of the day, it looks great! The underside looks like my Austin healey!
Well done, you always find a way 😊👏👏👏 parcel delivery made me chuckle 😆 xxx
Haha thanks :) Whiteland Restoration's idea!
That fluid film is a very good product. I was about to recomend it,but you got me before i did.😄👍
I do use MIG welding these days but when I got my first car in 1982 it had crusty rear arches and I stuck new arches on with fibreglass! That was when they were old bangers rather than classic cars.
Haha, well at least arches are structural 😄
Creativity and craftsmanship embodied in all the work done (by both parties). A very rare commodity these days. Thanks so much!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Fair play on that one dude you smashed that. And it’s going to live to fight another day.
Thanks for the support buddy 🙏 Anything to keep her chugging along!
@@Involvod that’s all we can do isn’t it. 👍
Have to do this on the passenger side of my 740. I actually had to have a section of the passenger frame rail replaced before winter so it would pass state safety inspection. I really should start making videos about it and the journey with it.
Definitely, I will watch! I've subbed 👍
No longer a Fred Flintstone car. Great idea Sledge and it looks solid.
Thanks, hopefully it stays that way 😄
WOW! Whiteland certainly KNOWS what they're doing! You've got real backup there, send them something of great value for Christmas, something VOLVO of course!
Dow corning silicone is another good choice also..has a 25 year lifespan although in freezing temperatures silicine can sometimes be an issue..But if it does the job then excellent...I myself cannot weld so an alternative is always welcome...another great video from you and thank you.
Congrats on the 2k!
Nice job Sledge - especially considering the circumstances (no electricity, no space, sh*te weather) and it should be okay for the TÜV - pedants 😂. I'm not a huge Volvo fan but I really like what you're doing. Keep it coming!!!
Thanks, I hope so 😅 I'm glad you're enjoying the content, thanks for watching!
Also, I learnt a great word for them the other day "korinthenkacker"
I think your repair was spot-on. Rotted floors are foreign to me living here in Alabama. If it does ever snow or ice they just spread sand, not salt. Also, I keep my 240 in the garage when there are bad conditions outside. Really enjoyed the Whiteland Restoration video on making the panels too!
It sounds like heaven 😅 I try to keep mine off the roads in bad conditions, but even today I took the 240 for a rip in the wet and rain because I missed driving her, can't help it! And thanks I'll let them know 👍
Sledge I did this with my Opel Kadett/Holden Gemini floor. I used panel bond by 3M 6 months ago, many people will say NO! but there are a lot of people backing bonding Adhesives with testimonies that the join will tear first, rather than to pull away from where it was bonded. Good job! And great idea to have the port holes to keep check on the rails beneath!!!!!
Whatever the sealant glue that Mercedes used in the seventies for the mudguards, would do today. Took me two days of heat and perseverance to detach one front damaged mudguard from a W123. I had a replacement from a parts car. I ended up angle grinding that one off about an inch inside the skirt. Then another couple days separating from the metal strip still attached. . Worst job I have ever encountered. Lol
Alternative yes, thorough...defo
I had rust on my 240 in the same spots and repaired it in nearly the same way. Mine holes were smaller and on an area where i could just bend the panels up myself with a simple harbor freight break. Guled the panels in with some liquid nails, sealed them and added a bed liner spray paint on both sides. It was only a month ago so i can't say for long term, only time will tell. Good luck with the project!
Loving the innovation of you guys, keep us updated.
Thanks for sharing, I definitely would have felt better about this if like yours it was just a small hole, but exactly, time will tell!
2 years later, how’s it holding up? 🫠
Would have done the same thing in your situation. While not ideal, it'll certaily be strong enough as a floor.
Whiteland continuing to put out some awesome stuff too.
Thanks man, always appreciate the support! Whiteland are awesome aren't they
@@Involvod I'd let them paint my stuff any day. It's tough to find a good body shop mostly because people won't appreciate craftsmanship.
The Fluid Film is made from Lanolin. Good choice. Ever see a sheep rust?
-- Panel adhesive should be just fine. good job!
That was great Sledge 👍 really good show of an alternative way to repair your floor possibly cheaper too than having it welded
Thanks Lee, it would have cost serious coin to get someone to weld it for me that's for sure!
Love it. Got to do the same thing in my 240.
Thanks, keeping them on the road is the main thing isn't it!
looks the business mate, can't imagine there would be an issue with that!
Thanks bro!
I think you did a great job considering what you had to work with! Plus the folks that made those panels sure saved some fab time. I have a similar headache to tackle once winter has left us. Cheers m8!
They so did, I thought "oh I'll just buy some thin sheet steel and cut something to fit..." Not that easy, I would have really struggled without them. Thanks, good luck with yours, waiting until warmer weather, sensible 😄
Great work, and video, many thanks. I just took the carpets off my 1996/293k miles UK registered 940 for the first time since I bought it 16 years ago, and I was lucky in that there were only a couple of small holes in the rear foot wells which I covered with fiberglass patches
I did a similar job on my old Corolla a year ago... I used body seal instead of panel adhesive + panel screws and rivets. It holds fine... I used 18 gauge metal. Now a day, I am hooked on welding; I might go back to it and weld a patch this spring... We will see. As old Mark Twain was saying: «If the pump works, don't fix it»... Take care.
👍good work👍bra jobbat 🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪
Thank you! 👍
Awesome work man, seeing Whiteland Restorations vid on the very panels you work on is top notch.
Really nice wasn't it! Need to do more collabs I think! Thanks 👍
Hey, your right. It's not the best fix. But It's better to have a floor in your Volvo, than no floor at all. Glue can be realy strong, but glue dosent harden if it's to cold. I realy Hope your glue is strong and will hold.
Best of luck.
Great potato metaphor :-) Beautifully made repair panels. Great bit of lateral thinking to heat the adhesive. Fingers crossed it is acceptable to the inspection people. Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year to you and Miss Involvo'd.
Reminded me of a mate who used the same metaphor re: a wart, we were all eating at the time :~(
Cheers :) Same to you, and thank you for your support this year 🙏
Much better then body filler or paper mache. Hopefully it keeps the water out.
Thanks! Me too 😅
I think its fantastic... probably will last longer than a welded in panel
Thanks! I didn't know that welding promotes corrosion until I researched this
I think this is alternative thinking and if it works then why is it a stupid idea? If Airbus are happy to glue planes together then I'm sure the floor pan of a car is a walk in the park. It's current technology and worth a shot and it is very interesting to see how it works! Good on you fella!!
That's a very good point I totally forgot about planes! Thanks for the support, let's see how well they hold up over the years!
@@Involvod the chassis of many Lotus cars, Opel/Vauxhall Speedster and Tesla Roadster are glued together as well. Also, millions of cars use adhesive for windscreens, rear window glass.
A floormanager is not part of the load bearing structure. It'll work just fine provided you use the proper (probably expensive) adhesive.
Good job mate! These panels are so nicely made. Thanks for showing the other way of doing it! It's a job that I will have to face on springtime😂. It will be great oportunity to learn welding and fabrication😃. Anyway let's keep those bricks on the road! Have a great christmas time at Involvod team!😃
Thanks mate! There seems to be a few people here facing the same work next year, much more sensible than doing it mid winter 😄 Good luck with it, I'm hoping to learn to weld too as soon as I get a better workspace. Thanks from us both and same to you!
940 roof panels make great sheet metal, currently welding up my 340 with it, recycling and all that.
Good to know 😄 Cheers
You're using panels from a 940 to patch up a 340? Shouldn't it be the other way around? lol
It’s exactly what I would have done, only I wouldn’t have done it as good. Even in the warm season 😂
That's reassuring 😂👍
Also don't feel bad about this "bodge" its tiying what it needs to into the floor and giving it back its structure arguably as well as some pigeon welding and it keeps it on the road, a slightly rusty car on the road is better then one in a scrap pile by any means!
Thanks chief, that's what I thought, if I had've welded it myself for the first time it probably would have been weaker
It's dangerous there's a reason why it's welded it all forms part of the strength of the car.
It's not panels built on a ladder chassis like a land rover. Even a land rover has a steel bulk head that has to be welded if it rots out
I was going to suggest before putting in the floorplans, rustproof the lower bottom to prevent the rust from attacking the car,and on the newly built floorplans, also rustproof it to add more protection,since you have experience from a 245 wagon that was rusted,good luck.
Hey there i think you are being too hard on yourself , at the end of the day its a solid repair that will keep the car useable thats what matters, hat of to you i think you did a good solid repair and enjoyed watching , btw what type panel bond did you use and what sort of price ?
Thank you, really appreciate that! I wanted to use Sikaflax 552 I think it was, but I couldn't get it in time so I used a similar product that was in the store, similar price point. To be honest 3m probably would have been the best but there doesn't seem to be much choice here
I use glue a lot on doors, fenders, yet not large parts of the floor. It did pass TUV with this repair? I would expect that it had to be welded in to pass the TUV test...
How did you remove the vent thing from the footwell? It's shown at @2:39. Any help appreciated!
With difficulty 😅 There's a bolt holding it in on the side of the centre console, and another (one or two) you've probably seen in view, then a lot of twisting and turning, only remove it if you really have to as I struggled to refit it too!
@@Involvod Thanks man, that's helpful. I'm doing a similar repair (floor well rust) so sadly it's necessary. Just pulled the fusebox out and have it ziptied to the HVAC controls. Wish me luck with the rest haha
@@jackster99999 you can do it!!
11:59 ahahhaah vice grip garage?
🤣 Perfect!
An MOT fail by UK standards, as they specifically state no panel adhesive unless it was originally fitted with adhesive - If they can see it... One of those jobs where the "bodge" is 90% of the effort of actually welding it, but without power/a welder you're out of options. I've been known to resort to... "Alternative repair methods" and thick underseal on my Triumphs to scrape an MOT pass before now. I still rely on being able to borrow indoor space to carry out welding repairs, never good...
Using adhesive on something like the Volvo's floorpan is kind of a moral grey area. Technically it's part of the monocoque, so structural, but in the case of the Volvo almost all the strength is in the chassis rail/outriggers/sills. So it's not exactly going to fall apart driving down the road, but it may fold oddly in a crash, so erm... Don't crash it?
I don't envy your working in minus temps without power, I was re-fitting my 740's interior the other night at about 3C and it was GRIM.
Please explain the opening of the seats for the Volvo 940
Some of those panel adhesives are stronger than the metal the cars made of so it shouldn't be a problem.
What product are you using at 13:28? Nice work by the way!
I wish road salt was banned and another option was used for ice. We supposedly have a "climate crisis", yet those who say we have such an issue do not care about all the resources to make a car only to replace it every 5 years.... We should be trying to make car last an average of 50 years!
I agree! About 10 years ago the city where I live stopped using road salt. Yay! Unfortunately, they have started using it again. Boo!
the floor have a structural role to play in the life of the car, better to keep it welded, to use automotive structural glues, the surfaces must be well prepared and perfectly clean metal, I doupt that you can obtain these conditions on a pitted sheet metal surface.
Well done Involv'd - good work - and have a safe Christmas. But could you please clarify the legality of this regarding MOT - in Germany or UK? I thought that floors had to have seam welds - end of story. What are the parameters - eg - proximity to seat belt mounts or jacking points or what?
Was there a jack point support below the floor you replaced? If so, is it still usable?
Can I glue a Sill as well ? It has got a 3 cm hole in it ?
Hey Just went back to this video to see which converter you're using. (some need to be neutralised afterwards which seems like a pain) Any recommendations (zinc spray etc)? It's for just your general surface rust on non visible parts of the car type of job.
Greetings from the Netherlands!
Hey, I used Jenolite, but to be honest I use Fluid Film wherever possible, it works a treat. The problem with rust converters is the rust can come back through as it doesn't always get totally converted especially if the rust is deep.
Bare metal I use any half decent zinc spray and then undercoat and fluid film over the top of that. Hope this helps!
@@Involvod knew you’d respond you legend. Cheers mate!
This is more than helpful. Just starting out myself. Got my first car this summer after having had a license for three years, a 245. They’re so great to work on! Your stuffs really helpful. (mostly entertaining though, in a good way ;)
@@bodhi_db nice, congrats on the purchase! Glad you enjoy the videos 👍
No controversy from me. Faced with the repairs you have to do, do anything you have to to keep it on the road.
Thanks Johnny!
Hope you and the Mrs have a great Christmas
A more DIY alternative to welding is a great thing, but do you know if an MOT tester would have an opinion?
They ALWAYS have an opinion! Whether it's the right one or not is another question.... 🤨
I think this calls for a more German view, I mean you live in Berlin after all, so: you glue WHAT?
😂
Expensive, I guess...