My Hyundai IONIQ 5 Died In My Driveway & Others Seem To Be As Well! What's Going On Here?
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Dave woke up to a dead 2022 Hyundai IONIQ 5 EV in his driveway. After just 3 weeks of ownership it appears that the 12V systems have drained and required a jumpstart. While this happened to Dave, it seems according to the forums, it's happening to others as well. What do you think is going on?
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Thanks for sharing your situation, Dad! A lot of people are thinking it’s the OBD dongle, however your car was sitting just for a few hours overnight. Even if that Dongle was running full power there’s no way it could drain the 12V. Also, it’s seemingly happening to other cars without the dongle. My prediction is that it’s unrelated. Either way, let’s hope for a software update or a fix for this soon!
ODB killed the battery on my ICE so I've unplugged it and the problem went away. Mine was hot to the touch all the time.
I agree but your Dad should try keeping everything unplugged to see if it helps. It's possible the 12V battery isn't being charged enough and slowly losing charging instead of gaining it over time.
I'd agree on at least suspecting the OBD. I have a mid-level Autel wired OBD and it is pulling amperage the minute you plug in (whether the vehicle is on or off). Hard to say that's the full cause as this has happened to people without OBDs.
Either a parasitic draw or perhaps an issue with the drive battery not automatically charging the 12V. I know I see the amber charge indicator on my I5 working fairly often and I've had no issues (I5 Limited owned since Feb 9).
100% the dongle. That is consistently pinging on a port that is powered. I did testing and was seeing it’s trickling power from the 12v battery pack. Never leave it plugged in.
Even if the ODB is drawing power, why isn't the car monitoring the 12v battery voltage and applying a charge from the high voltage battery??
Next time it happens, you should check the battery voltage with a multimeter before hooking the booster battery to it. That would tell you if the battery has discharged or if this is an issue with the car’s software.
That was exactly what I was about to suggest. My theory is that this is a battery voltage monitoring glitch. For some reason, the car thinks the battery voltage has dropped below a certain threshold (lets say 11.9V), or it happens momentarily for some reason, which kicks on some power saving circuit for the 12V battery. When the jump starter is then connected, and the car sees the battery voltage above another threshold (lets say 13.1V) it thinks the battery has recovered or is back online, and wakes up the car.
The fact that this happens instantly implies that the battery was never actually low, somehow the voltage monitoring circuit has the wrong values or thinks something is happening while in reality nothing is going on.
Also, using a clamp meter to determine the “idle current” from a fully charged battery into the vehicle electronics would be additional useful data.
If there’s only a few mA of current and the problem persists, it may be worth swapping out the battery for a new one, to either confirm or eliminate that part. (Sometimes perfectly new batteries do strange things, and rather than time consuming and potentially damaging “fault finding” activity possibly resulting in damaged or corrupted ECU’s or the like, swapping out easily accessible items involved in the fault, is a safer bet, avoiding costly and potentially warranty cancelling damage.)
….in the event that current in excess of 100mA is detected above it would be worth also checking any interior lights are staying on. If that’s difficult to check you could remove them temporarily and then measure again.
Multimeter voltage check and current clamp meter check on battery should be done when car is in (home) charge mode, to confirm 12V charger is operating (>13v) and current direction is reversed. Depending on batter SOC (State Of Charge) you should see between maybe a few mA or less than 1amp, and maybe upto 5A (~60W of charge energy is safe heat and current wise) if battery has been in an episode of going dead flat.
These figures are rough guides but should prove helpful.
Of interest to know Battery Brand/Model and “CCA” rating…. Perhaps a pinned comment with those details for those of us who are “techies” and can then interpret and advise.
Although, it's not stated in any way form or shape, I am assuming that the 12 VDC battery is a standard "Lead/Acid" battery type. If this is true then, you could have a good voltage reading on a practically dead battery. A common cause for such a problem is known and documented as "Sulfated Battery".
Cheers
Just about to say the same thing. A cheap $20 multimeter will do to check voltage. Expect about 12.5V.
DC current clamp meter..a fair bit more expensive.
Bottom line is the car is faulty in some way It's not the owners fault.
Just a little thought that might mean nothing: my 2009 Prius had a proximity key that was never supposed to be left in or near the car, for the key would leave the car in a readiness mode that potentially could drain the battery by keeping a computer awake. This was according to my Toyota owner’s manual.
Unplug the Circuit City you have going on in your car and see if it drains again. You can’t determine anything with that many devices left plugged in. It could be the app but you need to eliminate all of the other variables to determine that.
Everything plugged in looked like handheld devices. It certainly didn’t look like enough 0.025kWh devices to drain a 72kWh vehicle battery overnight!
@@Malpriorvids i think its not draining the main battery, just the 12v battery that starts up the car? I agree that maybe he should unplug all devices for a few nights to try out if it works. I used to have Blackvue dashcam that it supposed to cut off power supply to the camera when my car battery reached 12volt. But somehow it still draws power from the car battery and rendered it dead the next day. All I'm saying is... Give it a try, unplug all external accessories.
@@Malpriorvids EVs have smaller 12V batteries. Hilarious hes wondering why it drains yet has like a million devices plugged into his car. Lmao.
@@webguy943 my 10y old R58 Mini only provides 12V power when the engine is running.
Can be annoying, but I never had the problem that I couldn’t start the car, no matter how low the battery got. It simply stops using any battery without engine running when it is low enough.
Seems that Hyundai needs to redo some of their basic homework.
OTH: having an OBD connected is sketchy af!
@@webguy943 in car chargers tend to switch off when the engine is off however he tested those and that wasn't the issue. I have a similar 12v parasitic drain on my 12 plate civic. There is a device called an mcu that fails to detect a relay and thinks it needs to provide power to what I think is the door circuit. If it's a similar common issue here then it is unlikely to be the stuff he has plugged in
Easy way to figure out what circuit is drawing power. Just get an infrared camera or laser thermometer. After the car has been off for a while check the temperature of the fuses. Whichever one is still warm is the circuit drawing power. Then check the box and see what that circuit powers and fix that issue.
Wouldn’t you need to keep the hud open for this? This alone will activate parts of the car.
@@raylab77 No. The car is powered off. The goal is just to see what is drawing power when it's off.
cool idea 👍
It’s the blue link. I pulled the fuse and the draw stopped.
I took my Ioniq 5 2022 to the Hyundai today and learned that there was a system recall software update that they agreed to install. I am writing this from waiting room of the dealership while I wait for the update to finish!
I suggest all owners check with their dealers to update!
They agreed to install? The car doesn't have OTA updates..?
Just last week bought a little jump box for my ICE car, and it’s been a total lifesaver. I agree with you Dave. It’s great to have. Keep us posted on what you find out.
They are awesome things to have except when you get a flat battery in the other car lol
Probably a similar issue to the Kona - in some (unknown) circumstances, the car doesn't fully go to sleep when switched off. Leaving the boot (trunk)not quite latched is one cause
Here in Germany some I5-owners had the same problem, a drained 12v battery. The issue is the chargeport. Like you mentioned with the door, it tryes to open and close all the time and drains the battery. But thats just what i watched on youtube, maby your case is different.
We just bought an Ioniq5 and immediately replaced the 12 volt battery with a lithium battery. And installed a battery monitor. So far all is good.
Can you share a link to the lithium battery you bought please
This actually happened at the dealership when I went to test drive an Ioniq 5. Got there and despite being plugged into the charger, the car was a complete doorstop.
🤣
I’ve had this problem with my Kona EV. The culprit is usually an interior light left on, sometimes from a door or rear hatch not being closed all the way. Since learning about it, no more problems. But I am careful to check the car before walking away. If the 12V is too dead, jump starter may not work. It is easily and quickly recharged by most battery chargers.
@@Anandan1504 I've had similar issues with my 2010 hybrid Mercury Milan, due to my forgetting to disconnect "always on" 12 volt accessories in the car (like dashcam, phone chargers, etc).
As long as the car "sees" 12volts, the main system will come on and recharge the battery/run the 12v systems, etc. The 12v battery can be completely dead and the jump starter will still work perfectly to "wake up" the car.
I've been saying for years that these manufacturers should engineer a "fail-safe" circuit into the system that would allow the owner to manually turn on the 12v charge system on the main hybrid (or in this case, fully electric) battery pack so that carrying a 12v jump starter would be unnecessary. It's extremely short-sighted to have all that energy readily available and have no way to access it enough to get the car's systems to "wake up." All Toyota hybrids (I have a hybrid Highlander, too) suffer from the same design flaw. Even though the vehicle would run perfectly without the 12v battery present (once the car was "running"), the system needs to "see" that 12v when you turn the key/press start in order to "wake up" and be ready to drive.
@@steverossvoiceover We also have a Kia Niro Hybrid (2017) where the engineers were aware of the problem with the Prius, and provided what is in effect a “jump start” button for the 12V system if you’ve accidentally run it down. This is a separate reserve so it is always available. I’ve never had to to use it, but at least they thought about it. Like many others, I find it incredible that Hyundai (and obviously most other manufacturers) have acted like this is a non-problem and have not devised a simple solution like Kia (which is sister company to Hyundai) or a software fix that senses when the battery is draining away and disconnects it before the car reaches the point of non-response. It doubly blows my mind that Hyundai, who was keenly aware of the problem in the Kona EV, did nothing different in the Ioniq5. . .maybe they just think you’re stupid if you leave a light on or fail to completely close a door. But cars do lots of other things to prevent your stupidity from harming you, like, for instance, stopping you before you run over a pedestrian or slam into the rear end of a car in front of you. The discharge of the 12V system is a problem that seems much simpler to solve than, say, crash prevention.
Dave, thank you for sharing your experience. I have the Ioniq PHEV, and read about this issue on the forums too. Fortunately, I have not encountered this issue, but I purchased a small jump start battery like yours just in case. Hyundai definitely needs to figure out what’s going on here. At the very least, let customers know it’s a possible problem, and give them a jump starter so they’re not stranded somewhere.
By the way, those Type-S portable batteries are the best (and other brands I suppose). They're so convenient and hold their charge for a long time. I got one at Costco and have helped my self and others who needed a charge. They great for people who have a dead battery but aren't in a position to get a car next to them to jump the old fashioned way. Highly recommend.
thanks man for let people know that we can use those . in case of battery emergencies. im goin to buy one my self . just incase . :)
They are available at any Costco and are well worth it. The model I have jumps your car, has USB -A and C outputs and wireless charging. A flashlight as well. Sits in the trunk of my Outback.
ya my sister has one. its practically magic that something so small can boost a car.
I’ve never heard of Type S but I have something similar called Halo…bought it from QVC several years ago and it still works just fine…had to use it a couple times and worked like a charm! 😉👍🏼✌🏼
There are so many to choose from, how do you pick one?
(Former) automotive diagnostic technician here. (Just recently went back to school to study electrical engineering). This seems like a software issue. Hyundai/Kia (as well as many other EV manufacturers) will normally use the HV battery as backup for the 12V battery. If the 12V battery SOC drops too much, it will kick on the HV system to recharge the 12V battery. Of course, if the vehicle is experiencing a software glitch, all bets are off. The older Hyundai/Kia models turn on a light somewhere on the car when it is turning on the HV system to replenish the 12V battery. On my old Kona, it was a yellow light in the middle of the front badge. Also, regarding the Ioniq that drained the 12V battery while charging, that definitely should not happen because the vehicle will keep the 12V charging system active while charging due to the vehicle electronics staying on to monitor the HV battery while charging.
Fairly certain this is a software issue of something staying on when it shouldn’t, and also not charging the 12V battery off the HV battery when it should. There is an outside chance that it could be related to the OBD dongle if it is somehow keeping the CAN bus active and causing module(s) to stay online, but the dongle itself doesn’t draw enough electricity to kill a battery that size overnight. Maybe over the course of a week, but not overnight. I’ve never had an OBD dongle like that cause an issue, and I have an OBDLink dongle that I’ve left plugged into my Bolt for months without a drain issue. The only thing that sometimes happens is it will interrupt the vehicles ability to transmit diagnostic info back to OnStar, so I’ll get an angry email from OnStar saying that they can’t spy on my car. I’d suggest contacting your local service department directly and bring this up to them. There may be a tech service bulletin from Hyundai regarding this issue, or their engineering team may be looking for cars that have had this issue so they can retrieve data from them to determine the problem. If there is a software update for the issue (or any other common fault that they’ve found), the dealer service departments can learn about the repair from a technical service bulletin issued by the manufacturer.
Our Ioniq 5 SEL AWD had an incident where some sort of fan was running with the car parked- I locked and unlocked the car and the fan stopped. Also our car periodically charges the 12V battery from the HV battery- this is indicated by the amber light on the dash. So definitely a software glitch that is causing the normal recharging not to happen. Hyundai can learn from their own forum where this subject is discussed at length.
The 12 V automatic maintenance has strict limits on how much recharging it can do. At least on my Ioniq PHEV, it only charges it for up to 20 minutes once every 3 days, as per the manual. It isn't enough to compensate for drain from external devices. My battery still drains to dead if I leave my dash cam on in parking mode for a few days without driving, even though I confirmed the battery recharging activates just fine. I suspect it is designed only to compensate for the onboard computer's power usage, and external device drain was not considered when they determined the limitations on how much charging the automatic battery maintenance routine could do, and it's probably the same issue on Ioniq 5. More of a software design flaw than a bug/defect, if that's the case.
Electric vehicles at this time sucks.
@@GlenwingThink For the sake of sanity keep buying gas vehicles.
@@nadalhector2148 Thanks for your input, I found your comment very persuasive and my position and views have completely shifted.
My guess on this issue is a software issue. Leaving some part of the computer more active than intended causing the drain. Like you said an additional draw then intended. The jump pack worked immediately as once the computer booted up, it was able to turn on the DC-DC converter for the 12v system.
Everyone should keep one of these 12v jumper packs no matter what car they own. I have purchased and maintained one in every vehicle I've owned. Have to remember to check on them every month or so too, as some drain faster than others.
I would leave the ODB dongle unplugged when you turn off the car. Those are notorious for draining the 12 volt battery in EVs and ICE cars. Even though it looks like it’s off the car senses it’s plugged in and that keeps the port up and running.
100% try this first
I agree Stephen. We used to have our car insurance with a company that had one of those ODB drive monitoring devices. If we went on vacation and left our Honda Odyssey or CRV parked for more than 5 days, we'd be getting a jump when we got back. Since switching to a different insurance company without the devices, we haven't had a problem.
Also I never had a problem with my 2019 Kona EV and the 12v battery. It seems to always charge the 12v from the traction battery as evidence by the yellow dot on the front of the grill.
Hope you are able to track it down. Keep on making the videos, they are super helpful.
@@daveo.9172 You got to tell us which insurance company that you had that required the OBD.
@@Investor9872 Allstate insurance.
Stephen is 100% right.
I will commend Hyundai for being proactive. I reached out to them on Twitter and in a survey they sent about my experience with the car, mentioning safety concerns about their NVH material underneath the vehicle as well as the significant snow and ice accumulation inside the engine bay. About a week later, today, I received a phone call from my local Hyundai dealership who said two engineers from Hyundai Korea were flying in this week and asked permission for them to look at it to see if the issues could be addressed and areas in question improved upon.
Can you update us here if you get an answer back.
Ask them to be "proactive" with the fires :) They were even destroying evidences.
What a joke you trolls
@@SLeeSG LG batteries
@@SLeeSG wat?
@@myuzu_ Ioniq 5 uses SK on Battery not LG. Please note.
Had to go back and freeze frame this to see what the battery percentage was (21%), it now seems that the low limit for the car to not charge the 12V battery was set at 30 or 35%, so the problems people were having seem to make more sense. The update is supposed to set the percentage down to 10%.
The newer Kona’s (2020 and later here in Norway) have been having these issues as well. I’ve heard that the 12V batteries that come from the factory are notoriously bad. From what I’ve read most people have had the issue solved after switching the 12V battery. However it could be that the energy consumption is badly administered considering the connected features when the vehicle is off.
I've had the issue in the last two newer cars that I've owned the first being a Kia where I exactly 3 years with little warning the battery died and then on my Volkswagen GTI where the only sign was too slow starts and during the day and then died on the third attempt at around the 3-year mark. A lot of systems that are communicating with the car using the battery including solenoids cooling fans auto unlock features any interior light options that are tied to door unlocked status or any door latches that are not registering as closed.
I had the same problem with my Hyundai Sonata hybrid, replaced the battery 3 time in one year, can’t handle a non reliable vehicle! I think any Hyundai’s with ev or hybrid are having these problems with batteries. I went a chat room about this problem, it’s a widely known issue! I sold my car to a dealer who wanted it real bad!
@@diydrivenGA After 3 years , points to a worn out battery, not other problems.
This is all quite interesting! I own a Renault Megane and it appears that every three years I need a new battery as well. This is a standard 1.6 lt gasoline engine however it is equipped with an immobilizer system. I know for fact that this is a parasitic draw on the battery, it is always "listening" for the correct code from the smart card that controls the unlock and immobilizer system. All battery failures have occurred during the hot summer months. Heat is also detrimental to the battery under a hot hood of a car that sits outside all year long. I have considered installing a small solar panel on the rear deck and connecting it directly through the battery. For safety the panel should be fused on both terminals right at the battery. There should be no issue of overcharging the battery if one uses a panel that provides 500 milliamperes current ( 1/2 amp). This should offset the parasitic load caused by the immobilizer or any wireless access control of the vehical. The final issue is quality control at the battery manufacturing site. Most come from china believe it or not! Quality = Zero. I have also had one incident where I installed an Optima Spiracell battery into one of my older cars many years ago. These are very expensive high quality batteries. Well mine failed after three months. Replaced for free. Never had an issue with the replacement. It went for 6.5 years without a glitch.
I had this issue with two Subarus. The issue I found was because of the key FOB. My keys were hung about 10-15 feet from the cars and caused the BT or whatever proximity comms it uses to continuously cause the car to communicate with each other. Haven't had issues since moving keys farther away.
Subaru has had various battery problems and there have been lawsuits filed. We had issues on three of our last five Subarus, a 2015 Legacy, 2016 Outback, and 2019 Ascent. The 2018 Impreza was okay and so far the 2021 Legacy has not had battery problems.
@@kamX-rz4uy Dude stop buying Subarus. I hate the way corporate responds to known problems and often puts the blame on their customers. The Subaru dealers are Awesome in spite of corporate! Dealers often find solutions too problems and communicate with each other. After my valve spring broke on my 2013 BRZ at 48k miles and Subaru would not cover it. I sold the car. Then Subaru recalled the 13 for................ a valve spring problem 4 years after the cars were first sold. The Wagon fire problems in the 1990s. The head gasket problems that Subaru never acknowledged, Agin the dealers stepped up. Subaru is dead to me. I loved the way the cars drove ( when they worked).
@@kamX-rz4uy and you still buy Subaru?
@@ronsejour They have their issues but I buy them because they offer the best combination of features and price and overall are good cars. I'm not a Subaru fanatic and do look at other brands but end up getting another one.
@@fatboy19831 Subaru is quick to address safety issues but agreed that corporate has earned a bad reputation otherwise. Unfortunately other companies are guilty of the same or worse so pick your lesser evil and hope you don't get burned.
It's amazing to me that an EV, with a huge battery pack, will ever let the tiny 12V battery run down.
Crap software design. The Mach E had the same issue at first.
There is a DC to DC converter that charges the 12V battery but not when it's off (and probably not when it's charging in the "off" state.)
The Nissan Leaf was known for doing this, too. I keep mine on a battery tender jr. when at home. The dc-to-dc converter doesn’t output enough voltage to keep the 12v battery charged. Interesting fact: The 12v output increases significantly if you turn on the windshield wipers, so the problem is reduced in rainy weather.
I think it's unfortunate that there's still hundreds of 12v parts in cars these days to begin with. Elons spoken before about moving to 48 v parts before, and just powering them direct off the main battery. All these legacy systems gotta go
@@-Jethro- If the 12v output is "increase significantly," then wouldn't that drain the 12v battery even faster?
No sure where this ended up over 1 year later.. but I have been having 12V drain on my 2023 Canadian Market Ultimate (same as Limited in US) since taking delivery in January. first time was after about 3 weeks... then would die overnight if we didn't drive it each day.. I would measure the battery voltage before boosting it and it was always at 4-5V which is horrible for the Pb-acid... We were charging it off the OE Level 1 and left it plugged in so that we could pre-warm without loosing too much range. EVENTUALLY we found that the 12V would only die when the Level 1 EVSE was plugged in but not actively charging. As soon as we unplug the Level 1 EVSE the orange 12 monitor light would come on on the dash and the car was fine. There has to be a software bug where leaving it plugged in beyond the charging completion causes the 12V charging circuit to go to sleep then fail completely once discharged. Reported this to the dealer and they said there was not way they could report it to Hyundai.. WTF?
This seems to be a common issue with every new EV model. I have a Polestar and 12v battery issues were common in our groups for a while. They tend to get patch via software updates. I think it’s just a bug in the software where either 1) it fails to properly check the 12v battery level or 2) fails to re-charge the 12v from the main pack.
My ID4 has not had this problem. Have had it since Aug’21. Hopefully Hyundai addresses the issue and provide a fix soon.
my chevy bolt has never had this problem, ive had it for 1 year. some times it will sit for a week with no use and i have no problems.
I have A Ioniq Classic hybrid that "doesn't" have a 12v battery. If the 12v system goes dead all I have to do is hit a button inside the car and the system recharges it's self with the onboard battery. I don't understand why Hyundai has the tech and chooses not to use it on a pure BEV.
They do use it on BEVs.
I have a Kona electric and it regularly recharges the 12v battery using the main battery
I have the same button with my sonata 21 hybrid. I think because the battery packs on electric car is bigger than hybrid
@@Johnsmith69448 VW also does recharge from the traction battery.
Interesting Comment on getting a charge from the main Battery. My Wife has 2018 KIA Nero and we leave it in Florida for 6 months and in order to get it started, I have to do something similar. There is a switch we turn off when we leave Florida. We are in Sebring and have done some parade laps at the 12 Hours Track on Chin Track Days.
As i understand most (all?) EV's disconnect the big battery when car is off for security reasons, so if there is a drain when car is turned off it might not help since the relay need the 12 volt battery to flip it.
You kind of hit on what the problem is not. It doesn't appear to be a dead 12v due to the fact everything woke up and continued to work after the connected the mini pack. Something is disconnecting the 12v from the system causing it to go to sleep.
I have the same suspicion, the battery didn't die, the software crashed. Jumping the car caused a reboot.
Would love to know the voltage of the battery when the car thinks it’s dead. Reason being is the way the car responded to the jump pack. It was instant. Also watching the voltage adjust after the jump pack is removed would show how the car is responding to the battery state.
Not sure if it helps, but my battery was at 6 Volts before putting on the jump pack. For all intents, the car was dead.
@@spazzman90 thanks for sharing.
Dave, The OBDII dongle maybe the culprit. Also, I suggest you test the voltage on the battery BEFORE you plug it to the jumper box. Just to make sure that, indeed, the battery is out of juice; because it maybe a contact issue that gets resolved after you give it a jolt with the jumper. P.S. have been trying to find I5 exactly like yours with no luck here in Florida.
Holler Hyundai in Orlando, Florida is about to get another batch in May. You can put a refundable deposit on one. They had over 100 and sold all of them in a month.
@@DeepSouthMS3 Thank you Heath, the problem is availability of the “Limited” model in the State. We have the SE & SEL, however.
@@tonys9413 I have a Limited Shooting Star with gray 2 tone in order as well. Delivery is May. Can’t wait!!
Hyundai Brandon in Tampa have 3: SE/SEL sitting in their lot
The current draw from a obd-II dongle is too low to run it flat within 10h, which is the frequency the car automatically recharges the 12v
I use the Veep dongle also... it is on but the drain is practically nothing... if left on for several months of not starting car then you might have an issue... but a week? nope.... a day? nope
I have had my Ioniq 5 2022 for the last 2 months never had this issue but it makes me nervous knowing such a problem may happen. It doesn't make sense to have an electric car and have a full battery but come to a dead 12V battery! I wonder why those engineers didn't think of it I am sure it is a very easy fix for them but to know it may happen to any of us is not right! Hyundai if you see these comments and video please fix it! I love my car but knowing such flaws in your system is makes all us nervous 😓
Tesla has this problem early-on as well. They fixed it somehow and I haven't heard about any problems since. Also, Tesla is now starting to use Lithium-Ion 12V batteries which should fix this issue once and for all.
If it were an easy fix it would have been taken care of already.
In Korea there is an engineer in a white lab coat looking out over the Soul skyline from his corporate office with his head hung in shame.
Well, the engineers didn't think of putting in a rear wiper either!
@@johnnyViDeO huge aerodynamic drain. Hiding one is expensive and hurts styling. Say goodbye to the rear wiper on electric cars.
@@fatboy19831 The aerodynamic is not very effective at all. I live in Vancouver BC Canada and we have lots of rain and I really miss a wiper on this car.
I've had this happen once on my 2021 Kona. There is a lot of talk about what is plugged in to the ports etc. However, I had a long chat with the rescue company that jumped the car and they have been running tests on a selection of EV's as the issue is wide spread and not just one manufacture. The issue appears to be software related. In a similar way to a computer when you turn the car off the software sometimes hangs and doesn't fully quit. This firstly causes the battery to drain down and secondly as the software has technically hung it does not then run the periodic battery top-ups while the software is caught in a loop. It is only once the battery is flat that the issue is resolved - in a similar way to pulling the battery/hard reset on a laptop.
Since my issue, I make sure that before exiting the vehicle I shut down anything running, media, HVAC etc. and then make sure I hear the shutdown jingle before locking up. Since then I have had no such issue.
Hi Dave, enjoying your reviews. I think the problem is a combination of your short trips, usage of various devices and lights etc. that draw on the 12V battery and the 12V battery charger being undersized. You may be able to fix this by going into the Utility Mode (see the manual for how to do this) and telling the car to use the main battery rather than the 12V battery for many devices. I presume this comes at a cost of the main battery having to be managed even when the car is off and something draws on it, and hence draining a little even when the car is off. Looking forward to your update.
I'm agree with you on this
Great advice.
It would also help to see if there are any tell-tale things that are draining the 12v, as it would show overnight drain with them plugged in as opposed to nothing left plugged in. It might be a good test?
It's not. I drive mine all day, almost every day. And then one day, I come out and the car is dead. Like 6 Volts left in the battery dead. That is after sitting for about 9 hours from the day before. It's got to be a fairly heavy draw.
I hope you still read new messages here. I live in Scandinavia and I own the first named Hyundai Ioniq EV 28 kW model from 2019. I know that quite a few owners of this model have had issues with dead 12 volt batteries, and a number of Kona owners has experienced the same. Just to your information, the Ioniq EV and the Kona (I believe) has a menu in the dash, in which you can activate "12 volt management system". It is a simple feature, that keeps track of the voltage of the 12 volt battery in the car. If the voltage gets too low, the system will charge the 12 volt battery up from the main drive-battery. I don't know why the owners of the cars have access to such a feature. It should be activated from factory by default. However in some vehicles the feature is not activated from the factory and the result is a dead 12 volt battery in the morning.
I suggest that you try to look up the feature in the manual of the car or ask your local Hyundai dealer to find out, weather this feature it hidden somewhere - perhaps only the mechanics personel at the dealer have access to the data. I don't know.
I hope you find this information useful.
The VW ID3 when 1st released in Europe had the same dead 12v battery in the morning issue and required a software patch to fix. That could be another avenue of research. Good luck.
One of your 30 devices that you have plugged in and scattered over your dash, is probably slowly draining your battery out!
The next time this happens before you do anything put a digital volt meter on the 12 volt battery to check state of charge, from your description the battery seems to be ok after you energize the circuit so to me the problem may be related to one of the controllers that supply the 12 volts from the battery to the operating 12 volt systems. If it has now been working fine for days and days it’s probably not a 12 volt battery issue.
I have had this problem three times now in only 6 weeks of ownership. The 12v battery drops down to about 6v, at which point almost nothing works, but a quick jolt from a booster reboots the car, and the high voltage battery resumes its usual maintenance charging role on the 12v battery. My concern is that the 12v battery loses charge so quickly in the first place. There seems to be a significant current draw which is causing the high voltage battery to recharge the 12v every hour or so. Every couple of hundred such cycles the recharging isn't triggered for some reason, and this is when the car becomes temporarily unusable. It should be fairly simple for Hyundai to trace the cause of this discharge/recharge cyclical overactivity.
Hi my name is jim i would like to know were to get a iONIQ 5 AT LIST PRICE
Will try to make this short. I have own a Ford Fusion Hybrid for 10 years. They also had this issues in many of their hybrids. In a odd circumstances I ran into a tech for Ford. The battery isn’t dead just falls below what is needed for computer. It’s about 3/10 of a volt if I remember correct. That is why it needs very little “bum” to work. A new OME battery was the fix, and Ford payed for it. Good luck!
Toyota Hybrid really freaked out when 12v was low also
I’ve had the identical problem with my 2019 Hyundai Kona EV. Twice I found it completely dead in my driveway with over 50% charge on the main battery. Road service knew exactly how to get the car operational. The dealer’s answer was to replace the 12v auxiliary battery.
Thanks for sharing your experience, Mr. C. I immediately ran to Costco and found the same Type S jump battery you have for $59-even if I never use it, the peace of mind is well worth it. (I really like my Ioniq 5 SEL RWD.)
So you have to get in all this problems with a new Hunday Ionic 5??Electric cars at this time suck.
@@nadalhector2148 these kind of problems can easily occur with gasoline-run cars too)
The dead car symptom seems similar to my 2011 Nissan Leaf that will go dead if its 12volt accessory battery lacks a charge. Once I trickle charged the accessory battery back up the car runs normally. I'm on my second accessory battery since my Leaf is over 10 years old.
First of all, all new cars with heavy computer use have voltage or power safety systems for consumption. It works like triage of the 12 volt systems in vehicles, ICE or EV. Anytime the battery voltage drops below a programmed point the vehicle will start shutting down systems to save itself and the programming and memory in the vehicle. I was stranded in my brand new work vehicle out on a job. We run an Ipad all day long for work orders and data entry. We also have strobe lights for safety when we are in highly populated areas to warn people of our vehicles being parked in an area and that we are entering and exiting the vehicle.
My Ipad can draw up to almost 2 amps while charging by itself. I also have a GPS unit running all of the time in my vehicle. That day I was outside of my truck working for 5 hours and the ipad was running.
It was just enough power draw that my vehicle would not allow the start system to operate but other things still worked like my door unlock from my key fob.
All it took was for the vehicle to see 12.7v and everything let the truck try and start. I am a service tech so the first thing I did was got out my multimeter and checked the voltage of my battery . It was 12.4 v DC
before I took a power cord out of my truck and made a makeshift jumper cable out of it.
I did not need the power draw to start my vehicle but only the voltage level for the vehicle to see to allow it to unlock or power up the start system.
I am going to guess that you have a smart charger that can schedule when your vehicle can charge and you can set the time on it. That system and all related apps run off of the 12 volt battery.
Even when your car is off it is still on talking to your charger, your dongle, your ipad and any other bluetooth or wifi device in your vehicle.
Our modern tech and the internet of things ( IOT ) , means that this stuff is always on and always talking between themselves.
You need to eliminate or unplug everything when your vehicle is not being used or install a trickle charger on your 12 volt battery or get a solar charge pad to throw in the dash and plug into a power outlet to send power back into the card while it is parked.
www.amazon.com/TP-solar-Maintainer-Cigarette-Alligator-Motorcycle/dp/B07RXKN9MF/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B07RXKN9MF&psc=1
This happened to my brand new Tucson. I know it's not EV or hybrid, but had the battery replaced 3 times and it kept dying after 3-4 days, then finally dealership kept it for further investigation. After a month, they said the whole radio unit is withdrawing power slowly when the car is off. They replaced the whole unit and it worked.
An interesting video. I don't own an EV and I probably won't own one in the near future, but I find them interesting. If it isn't too much of an inconvenience, I suggest that you unplug all of your accessory items and use your vehicle that way for a few weeks to see if the problem reoccurs. If all is well, just plug in one item, the one that you need the most, and use your vehicle that way for a week or two. Then you can continue adding additional items in a similar fashion until the problem reoccurs. Hope this helps.
First thing, unplug all the extras, run it a few days to see if car is fine. Then add in extras one at a time and individually evaluate for a few days. Then the next one and so on.
The culprit causing the drain will make itself known.
Seems a handy little device but needing it so soon is not cool whatsoever.
I keep all unplugged now. Problem hasn’t come back… yet. I fear I am not out of the woods though. I have read of others who keep no extras in the car and the same thing happens to them. I will keep my handy dandy charger in the frunk for peace of mind for sure
@@dconner9 That's pretty sad really for such a new design especially because they have the tech to charge the lead battery from the pack although not in this vehicle.
Seems the software could with an update. A new owner shouldn't have to worry about this shit.
The Hyundai Group has big plans for EV vehicles. They've already delivered less than steller user software and issues with the lead battery losing charge isn't going to sit well with potential buyers.
Hope the dealer treats you properly during the time it takes to resolve this issue fully.
XC40 Recharge forums have some threads about similar issues on that model (unexplained 12v drainage), and some folks saying they saw the same on Mach-E forums - but not at a widespread level on either car it seems. Wonder if there could be some similar root causes though.
Mach-E was a software issue on early build cars that was fixed, but then more recently a junction box that is supposed to charge the 12V has failed on some cars and has had to be replaced. Unlike this Ioniq 5, when the Mach-E 12V completely goes, jump starting it doesn't bring the car back and it needs to be flat-bedded to the dealer.
Polestar 2 had recall for 12 volt failures in 2020. Charge going out but charge wasn’t coming back to 12 volt battery. 2200 cars were recalled.
Thanks for the great video! I had no idea this was an issue. When I come out of my house in the morning, I’m usually already running 5-10 minutes late for work. I have no time to plan on for a dead battery every few weeks. Between the suboptimal kWh/mile consumption, the $5-7k dealer surcharge and the 12v battery issue, I’m rethinking the purchase of an Ioniq 5.
Ya I was thinking of getting it as well but I agree with what they say. I guess I'll just wait for Model Y in June.
Just ask for a $3,000 discount because of these problems.
@@tedmoss local dealers want $11k over sticker and they sell out almost immediately.
If you pay over sticker price for one of these things then you are a special kind of stupid.
Being an electronics tech... I would simply disconnect one lead of that battery and put an ammeter in series with it. I would then monitor it for "parasitic" current and if there is any, which there has to be, experiment by trying to deactivate different devices, removing fuses etc. until I found the culprit. Cheap multimeters are easily bought a Walmart or any auto supply.
Clamp meter would be an easier, non-invasive, way to do it.
If it was cold soaked, or there was a vampire drain on the low voltage without the dcdc being active, the 12v battery got drained or voltage drop.
You can't leave the OBD2 stuff plugged in. I had that problem with my Chevy truck and it ended up being the hptuners plug
The next time it happens, measure the voltage across the terminals to see how low it’s going below 12VDC.
My 2020 Rav4 did this, Toyota said it was a known issue and the issue was the car has telemátics and a connection to Toyota servers or something and modem was always pinging and searching for connections and that was causing a drain on the battery if the car was off long enough. The dealer installed an update and it hasent happed since, I wonder if Hyundai has a similar issue, maybe a connection that’s always looking for connection causing a drain
I’ve had my Ioniq 5 for a week now. I tried looking through your comments and most people were blaming the OBD dongle. But I just stepped into my car and plugged my lightning port and it charged my phone without having to turn the car on. So I’m thinking you charged your iPad overnight and killed your battery. From what I understand turning off the car does not kill power to the 12v adaptor or usb from the front middle console.
As soon as you open the doors it wakes up circuits in the car. Your theory that the Ipad killed the battery is rather far fetched for a simple reason. Most car batteries are around 12V and 50A or so, storing around 600Wh of energy. The Ipad has a 19.3Wh battery. So, even if the Ipad battery was completely empty and the car charged it overnight, it would have used around 3% of the battery capacity to do so. Not nearly enough to drain a 12V battery.
@@redbaron6805 the ipad will consume energy everyminutes! more than 19.3Wh because you has the Wifi on (of the ipad)
@@kumir_ Actually it won't. The iPad Mini battery life is 10 hours of use, around 72 hours of standby time. Since the iPad was on standby and not in use with the screen off, it would have consumed around 0.26Wh every hour it was sitting in the car or around 2 to 3Wh overnight.
That is less than 1% of the 12V battery capacity, so it simply wouldn't have been a factor in this case.
The EV6 does also have this problem. There's meant to be battery protection where the vehicle uses the EV battery to automatically charge up the 12v battery. This is not working properly in my opinion. I have my EV6 connected up to my Home Assistant thing and can see the battery draining away if I leave the vehicle for any length of time.
My vehicle is constantly turning on the Infotainment system which is draining the 12v battery. I know this as my phone's Bluetooth keeps connecting to my vehicle while I work from home.
Tip tip. Put the battery pack in the Frunk or inside the vehicle. If you leave it in the trunk you won't be able to get to it when the 12v battery is dead.
I am guessing that your fob activates the car. On a Subaru that we used to own we had the fob in line of sight to the car and that drained the battery. When we stored the fob in another location, the problem was solved. Could this be the cause?
All ev's have the same issues. They have a space aged battery but to utilise it the car needs to be started by something made in the 1800s. Best to keep a jump starter charged and available. Any dongles you have could have been adding to it. If you're just sitting in the car listening to the Radio it will use the old 12v. You need to put it in utility mode or just turn the car on.
two 12” screens, one ipad, one cell phone, and a radar detector. no officer i wasn’t distracted 😳
Yea.. officer. I'm not sure why they broke into my car..
Another thanks from a new Ioniq 5 owner. Glad I got to see this issue as well as the temporary resolve. While I have had the limited version for a few weeks I have not had this problem but will certainly purchase a power bank for potential future emergency use. I do notice the yellow light on the dashboard comes on almost every night, at least while the temps in my garage are below 50 F and I understand it is indicating that the 12V battery is charging. Look forward to more comments from you about your experiances.
My yellow light came on all the time, then it didn’t and the battery was dead. Now the car does not charge the 12 volt and has a battery drain. Dealer is clueless.
The 12V battery drain issue is why I canceled my Porsche Taycan order and got a Tesla Model S, zero regrets.
First thing I did when I bought my IONIQ 5 Limited was update the firmware and maps... I am at 1550 Miles on the Odometer. I ordered a Bluetooth battery monitor to give me a warning if voltage got too low. Watching this issue very closely. Thanks for your video. It helps.
Did you check to see if the battery was actually dead? My daughter had a similar problem and it turned out to be a loose connector on the battery post. The style connector you have can’t be tightened past a certain point. I had to put an enlarger on the post so it could get tightened enough. I figured it out because the dealer couldn’t.
Dave / Kyle / Hyundai - First Dave -, we always owe you early adopters a thank you for being the first ones to go with a new product. This is why. The community truly thanks you. I know my wife and I do. I want one of these SO bad. But as more time goes by in this crazy auto world the Dealerships are gouging more and more. I'm thinking about going up to Canada because it's illegal for dealerships to charge over MSRP, go figure I'll never pay a penny over MSRP, and I will not spend $3k on options I don't want. Kyle - I completely agree with you, it's not the OBD dongle. I have one in my 2002 Lexus and the battery is from 2014. I have one in my 2016 Leaf, and it is fine as well. It's not the issue. I do trickle charge it monthly for general maintenance, but that's it. Hyundai - Please get this figured out, work with Kyle and Dave on it. I know this battery issue is slowing people down and willing to wait until it's figured out. I cover 3 states as a sales rep, and like most people, when I get in my car, especially a new car it can't have phantom draining on a 12v battery. HOW is the world is there not a sensor in all of this tech to cause a warning, or a battery light to indicate there is an issue. The software should have some parameters that alarms with this type of fluctuation, even in the 12V system. Please update this in the software along with wireless Android Auto and Wireless Apple Car Play. Those 2 omitted features is really poor planning for up to a $60k car. It's unacceptable. I hope this get's figured out for you Dave and all of the other early adopters. We look forward to the updated videos. as usual.
"I'm thinking about going up to Canada because it's illegal for dealerships to charge over MSRP."
Search RUclips for CBC television's undercover experiences with Canadian dealers' deceitful practices. The problems are widespread, and auto dealers there are virtually never prosecuted.
@@kenhoward3512 Thanks for the heads up. Disappointing to say the least. So there the same everywhere.
Jim where are you located? If you live in upstate NY, West Herr in Buffalo was not marking up when I purchased mine from them.
@@Bzzap83 thanks for the feedback. Greatly appreciated.
If you are thinking of getting an I5 in Canada, you better have patience because the wait time for this vehicle is about 6-8 months.
I've has a sticky brake switch leave the brake lights on and kill the battery. Another time it was the interior light. If it happens again, check these before moving the pedal or doors other than the one you got in through and check that a light wasn't bumped or left on. Hope that helps.
I would be interested in seeing what the voltage was on the 12V battery. I wonder if there is a safety switch that trips when the voltage drops too much, and when you hook up the pack it drives the voltage up where it resets the switch.
If it helps, Voltage on mine was about 6 Volts before installing the a jump pack.
@@spazzman90 that is quite low. I'm sure a software patch could fix this.
I like these because, like older sedans, they have a split bench seat in the front. It's not a real seat, since it's too small, but the idea is to give leg room, comfort, and easy access to both front doors on either side. I like how this looks. Can't wait to see what other people do with it. It's old, but it's new again.
Great vlog about the car. Regardless what the draw is, in my opinion. The technology at this point should be able to sense while parked, that there is a parasitic draw and throw a code and or at 50% batt, shut off the culprit. That seems like a simple software upgrade by hyundai. The 90s are over Hyundai, a decade which you may wish to forget but please, don't leave people stranded.
You have a parasitic draw on the 12v aux battery. A light is "on" or a relay is stuck? You must hook up a muli-meter/ DVOM to that battery and tape it somewhere you can see it clearly. Close all doors and lock the car. Wait. Watch amp draw. If above ??? So many milli-amps? You have SOMETHING draining that circuit. Pull fuses 1 by 1. Repeat. Once draw goes away completely? THAT is your draw on the aux battery. Wiring diagram is necessary afterwards. The OBDII dongle COULD be keeping the BCM computer active? It is possible? But the power wire on link is on the lighter fuse circuit, try that first? Hope this helps. ASE certified technician, in Cleveland.
There must of been a bad batch of 12v batteries. I had the same issue with my 2018 Volt.
I upgraded to a lithium 12v an no issues since.
The Ioniq 5 should have a 12v battery saver mode similar to my 2017 Ioniq. You have to activate it.
As far as I know you can't really get big size Li-Ion batteries. They are also less durable weather wise. Ie.: If you have freezing cold temperatures for example, I'd stick with regular batteries.
@@CitarNosis317 The 12v battery isn't a starter battery, so it doesn't need good cold cranking capability. In full BEV they should be using deep cycle lead acid, or LFP. They just use these normal SLA batteries because they already have them and it's cheaper for manufacturing.
@@0hypnotoad0 Absolutely - and when the car _does_ charge the 12v battery - those types of batteries hold that charge for longer. After the 2nd or 3rd time of this issue I'd be buying a deep cycle.
@@CitarNosis317 This isn't true. Tesla already moved to LiFePO4 12v batteries. Much lighter, longer lifespan. They like being at 100% charge too, great for the 12v battery.
I’ve drained a non-ev 12v with a OBD dongle. Plugging it in doesn’t just power the dongle, it can keep the ecu running also.
It probably has to do with the “extra” stuff you have plugged in that are drawing 12v power.
If those outlets are switched off when the car is parked, then the only way the "extra" stuff can be causing the issue is that the total draw of all of them simultaneously exceeds the car's 12v battery charging capacity, such that there's a net drawdown while the car is running. Then, theoretically, the battery would be less charged each time the car is driven. And this might be exacerbated by the routine of only charging 1x per week. Perhaps possible, although you'd think an e-car would have sufficient amps on hand to handle the load. But perhaps not. As good a theory as any so far. It does seem like there ought to be a breaker to protect from this sort of overload if this is anywhere close to the truth of what's happening.
I own a kona and I know that if you don't close the trunk properly the head unit never shuts down. Also if you don't lock the car the 12v battery will not be charged. I hope it helps
Was the car sitting several days? Modern cars and EVs are always on, talking to themselves or services like OnStar, listening for your app, etc. I've had to put a battery tender on our cars about every two weeks otherwise the 12v can get pretty low.
Could be but I have a Hyundai Santa Cruz with about the same 4G OTA (BlueLink) stuff and I may go 2 weeks or longer - the battery has to start my car's engine and I've not had any issues with the 12v. I'm thinking there's an issue with the charging system's software - it's simply not allowing the big EV battery to charge the 12v accessory battery.
Your 12V battery runs all of the onboard computers including any remote access and telemetry functionality. Normally it gets recharged by a DC-DC charger from the high voltage battery but if you're leaving it unplugged for long periods of time it might not be running that. The manual states there is a LV battery "saver" mode but it only activates for 20 minutes then disables itself.
I couldn't find this recommendation but my recommendation would be to leave the car plugged in all the time. If it's anything like the Volt, Bolt, or a Tesla it'll turn on the HV charger which should keep the LV battery topped up from time to time.
Like in the Kona EV, the Ioniq 5 has an option to enable Aux. Battery Saver. It is perfect to have enabled for those short use / very short commutes that don't permit to fully charge the aux battery, just like in an ICE. See page 1-55 of the Ioniq 5 User Manual.
Have a Kona EV and I see it activate twice a week.
There is no option to enable or disable that on the Ioniq 5, it’s supposed to be automatic but occasionally fails to activate or defaults out after trying to charge the battery unsuccessfully for some reason. I’ve had the exact same issue as in the video.
I have limited knowledge about this but from what you said I would say it is a communication problem in the main computer. 12 v battery is not getting charged or is disconnecting from the system for some reason.
It screams week connection. That would be why when you hooked up the extra battery the system got the signal.
The Ioniq 5 only charges the 12v battery when the car in plugged in to the AC charger (It does not charge at a DC fast charger), or you are driving or you are in the Utility mode. Your car computer that runs the Bluelink is operated by the 12v battery and the cell modem is also running off the 12V, and they operate all the time monitoring the car and sending out data. That's why you get those your door is unlocked emails or texts. 10 miles a day is not enough to re charge the 12V. You need to drive more or plug in at home.
The I5 does periodically charge the 12 volt battery from the high voltage battery even when turned off and not plugged in. In US models there is a small light below the rear view mirror which lights up when this is occurring. I am not sure what triggers the charging but I sometimes see it on when the car is off and unplugged in the garage. It is described in the owner’s manual.
@@COSolar6419 Thanks, I will consult the manual for additional information
@@COSolar6419 I have been looking for anything in the manual about a blue light, or 12v battery charging, and the only thing that I can find is this. Battery Information
@@evatrics5902 In my owner’s manual the reference is on pages 1-55 and 1-56 concerning the Aux. Battery Saver. The charging light is illustrated on page 1-56.
@@COSolar6419 Thanks, this could be the key to some problems • The Aux. Battery Saver+ activates maximum of 20 minutes. If the Aux. Battery Saver+ function activates more than 10 times consecutively, in the Automatic Mode the function will stop activating, judging that there is
Looks like the alternator is not charging the 12v battery... Also don't pull up on the cube it slides forward to open you will break the tabs the flashing lights on the type S powerbank is actually branded Acura sports model is protection for voltage id say.
Must be frustrating for a new car to have such an issue. Especially when dealers don’t know the root cause. Hyundai need to be on this right away. Unfortunately, until there is a significant number of these reported, probably nothing will be done. You seem to be taking it with a better attitude than I might. Good luck with finding the root cause. I like your videos, so keep filming.
It is pretty oblivious that they are jumping all over this problem, something with the management system most likely.
I’ve been using the Veepeak for about 4 years, and when I installed it on my car the literature told me not to leave it plugged in and yes it would drain the battery the blue light is to show the Bluetooth connectivity. I hope that helps.
Had the exact same happening once last week here in Norway. I've had it for a month now and I got an Ioniq 5 Premium AWD. Nothing in common with you here, besides having a lightning cable connected (without an iPhone). I have this bulky jump starter, but I will be buying a similar smaller jump starter as you to keep in the frunk. I had the same issue with my last car, the VW ID.3 1st Max, but that was a software issue. Once that update came through, no problem (the big battery then charged the 12V battery on a regular basis, even when the car was not running). But I have no idea if this is the same. As you said; this is so basic, it shouldn't be a problem on a new car! Hyundai HAVE to fix this.
why are you surprised? they really don't make a lot of EVs, it's not their area of expertise and it's not their profit center
@@bluetoad2668 Because it's a car that cost the same that I make a year, before tax. But hey, I'm naive.
Dave as far as I know the 12v battery charges from the regeneration paddles. Do you use these much ? If not go to settings and put regeneration on auto. I always have regenerate on auto and it’s just one less stress. The 12v battery will automatically recharge itself when your driving then.
I'm glad that I watched this, because I just realized that I can't keep my jump box in the back with the electric rear hatch.
i work on all makes of EV's and they all have the 12v battery going bad, especially Tesla.
Did anything like this happen with any of your VW ID4s?
Not on mine yet🤞🏼I’ve had mine since Aug last year
I had the car for about a month a half. I have the limited. I noticed a big issue with the vehicle recently and this could actually be the reason why the 120v battery died.
When I parked my vehicle and turned it off, I noticed that the air conditioner did not turn off at all. I waited about a minute and it did not turn off. I opened the door and closed it. After closing, I locked the doors while seated inside. I noticed that the AC was not turning off at all. I had to turn the car on and off before it would realize that it needs to turn the AC off. I believe that once you turn the car off the 120v battery kicks in for everything else. Now I usually check my AC if its on or off before exiting.
Hopefully they fix this issue.
I've hade the car since November and always leave the Airco on the lowest Auto setting. I don't do anything special when I turn off the car. It has never drained anything from the battery, even standing outside in the winter it has not had any vampire drain.
There's someone out of the UK that had the same issue and started using a battery monitor - he switched over to Utility mode for a time and hasn't had the issue come up again. Just out of curiosity which brand and model was your battery jump pack? so many of them are overkill for this use case. I tend to agree with the other commenters that it probably has to do with something with either the charge door or even perhaps the 4G radio and BlueLink - I've had my Hyundai Santa Cruz for almost a year now and when parked in the garage it'll send a push notification (sometimes more than a couple) that my doors are unlocked. The software is probably very different from the IONIQ 5 but it could be some "bad code" where it's not allowing the DC to DC charging to kick in to bring the 12v battery back up to where it needs and even normal use / driving is wearing down that battery. What is throwing most people for a loop (IMO) is that they are applying what they know about cars with a "normal" charging system and not taking in to consideration that there's no alternator and most of what charging activity is governed by software that may not be 100% sorted yet.
I have had my Ioniq 5 SE AWD since December. I too bought the jumper battery based on others' reviews. I have had the ODB2 monitor in the whole time also based on recommendations. So far, I have had no issues. I am coming up on 5K miles. Keeping my fingers crossed.
safety tip, you should always start with attaching the negative wire first, otherwise you become the ground for current to flow from positive terminal through you to the ground.
I suspect the battery was full but the car software was “upset” by the OBD plug. And jolting the battery with voltage probably woke something up again. However, this is all conjecture, seen as we don’t know the voltage of the “dead” battery.
OR
The dongle was still being powered. I can still power readers and equipment in pretty much any car, even when the car is completely shut down and locked. You can even buy OBD adapters to power dash cams which will work in parking mode. The indicator light on the dongle does not necessarily mean that it is powered. Most of the time it means it is connected to the integrated canbus network and able to communicate.
the jump box looks like the same model that I got at Costco -
I am curious if your iPad or other devices are drawing power from the battery while you are not driving.
This is the common Hyundai 12V auxiliary battery issue. Hyundai has NOT addressed the bad software that does NOT look at the 12V battery voltage, it just uses a fixed timer charging function. This leads to the battery dropping too low, and then the safely software kicks in and then does not further charge the 12V battery. I own the 2019 Hyundai Kona EV, same issue.
Is there a link to that jump start unit you have ?
Yeah can you provide that? I didn't see any like yours for $35 only $99
Yes. Don't leave that adaptor in. It does draw power. If you do not use your car regularly, the battery will discharge.
Unhook one side of the battery and put an amp meter to see the draw and start un hooking stuff til you find the culprit
Not a good idea, if you want to monitor draw, install a Bluetooth battery monitor, since it has logging
I have heard that leaving the USB cable plugged in will still draw power even with nothing connected to the open end. Plus you had a radar detector plugged in and perhaps that draws current also.
Thanks for this video. I have owned a Kia e-Niro (Niro EV in the USA) here in France since March 2019. I notice it has the same 12v battery as your Ioniq 5 (Rocket)...I get the impression HMG don’t use the highest quality lead/acid batteries but not sure on that. Many e-Niro owners here in France and in the UK have had problems with their 12v batteries but these seem all to have one thing in common, the use of an OBD device which if the car isn’t used for a while will drag the 12v down. I had no such problems until a few weeks back when my 12v died and I could not start the car. Turns out I had not closed the tailgate properly so the interior light was on for about 15 hours. My 12v was down to 5.7 volts!...Charged the car up again and ignoring Einstein’s advice I did the same thing a few days later expecting a different result it would seem!...My stupidity occurred when cleaning out the car interior, leaving the doors open for an hour when I got distracted with something else...and once again the 12v was drained. Convinced that I needed a new ‘higher quality’ battery I checked first with a friend of mine here who has a 2017 Ioniq, one of the 28 kWh early models. His 12v is the same make as mine and is the original battery. He put me onto the backup 12V as you have here so got myself one of those and am sticking with the 12v in the car for now. In theory a 12v lead/acid should last longer in an EV as there is no sudden loads put on it from cranking a starter...but the advice is to keep a beady eye on your 12v. The old Ioniq and the Kia e-Niro have very similar menu settings. You need to make sure that ‘aux battery saver’ is ticked..this means that when the car is powered down and locked the traction battery will charge the 12v if it detects the 12v has gone low.
Lead acid batteries don’t like discharge below 50%. Not recommended to go below 10.8V. If this happens irreversible damage happens. This means that these dead battery episodes will come more frequently and can be triggered more easily.
I have had the same problem on my 2013 Ford C-Max plug in hybrid. Several trips to the dealer, and they found the problem, only to have it do it again. I bought the same charger you have, and keep it in the car. Dealer can only say there is a draw somewhere.
Until you work out what the root cause is, I suggest using a small solar panel on the dashboard when you park the car, plugged into the 12v port (cig lighter). This will backfeed the 12v battery and trickle charge it, helping to prevent this issue.
This sounds best work around in the comments. does the back feed happen in any car.. even an ICE car?
What if you park inside?
@@tedmoss Then good luck? I'm not sure that this even deserves a response lol.
So what's the update? How was the problem resolved?
Apparently it's a BMS update done at a Hyundai dealer
ruclips.net/video/YmfkvL_O1IA/видео.html
Mine ended up a software update