Rusty trunk repair begins! Will muriatic acid remove the rust? Model A coupe Hot Rod build!
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- Making progress!!! In this video on the Hemi powered Model A Special Coupe Traditional Hot Rod build, I finally get started on repairing the rusty trunk!
There's still plenty to do! Subscribe and click the notification bell so you don't miss a thing! Please leave a comment, and thanks for watching!!
Coming up soon on the 1928 Model A HEMI powered traditional Hot Rod project... Chassis fabrication, finishing the rear subrails, fitting oversize door pins, rebuilding door latches, rust repair on the doors and quarter panels, and much more!
Thanks for watching me bring this old 1928 Ford Model A Special Coupe back to life!
Need my address? E-mail me, and I will send it to you so, that I don't have to make it public, Thanks!
E-mail: phillipshotrodgarage@gmail.com
Visit me on Facebook: / phillips-hot-rod-garag...
#traditionalhotrod #builtnotbought #modela #coupe #hemipowered #rusty #fabrication
Somos Brasileiros e estamos te seguindo 👍
Thank you for watching from Brazil! Glad to have you!
i had some large parts to do. I used second hand grow trays. 4'x8'.
Grow trays? I’ll have to look into those.
@@phillipshotrodgarage bought mine used for $25
Looking forward to seeing what's next
Bill Qld Australia 🇦🇺
Awesome! We gonna get into some cool stuff this summer!
Sir, Thank you so much for the time you gave to give me the information I needed to accomplished my Special coupe. I will take your idea on the 1929 sedan sides , because I have all that i need, thanks to you my friend!
Just to be clear, you will only use the rear window section from a sedan, not the side pieces. I’ll probably make a video on it so the knowledge is out there.
Worth waitin' around for, Phillip ! Thanks,
Thanks for hanging around!
Good stuff!😊
Thanks!
Hot coffee and a video from my favorite RUclipsr makes my Sunday morning !iron trap just did a video of a rebuilt flathead and it leaked water from center exhaust port. Bad block
I watched that one. That was a real bummer that it was cracked. You never know with a flathead.
@@phillipshotrodgarage that's what I've heard about them. When I got into old cars in late 80's you couldn't give a flathead away, multi carb intakes sold for $10-20 at swap meets.
@@briansaier4929 I wasn’t into them when I was younger. Now I think they are cool and everything for them is expensive. Not as expensive as the hemis though.
@@phillipshotrodgarageI know, I coul have gotten a 57 392 a long time ago
Those are pretty high now.
I was still watching, I saw there was footage left.
Couldn’t fool you, huh? Thanks for watching, appreciate it!
I am glad the engine is ok. looking to hear it run, you have a very good channel thanks Phillip.
Hopefully it will run ok. I haven't decided how far I want to pull it down. I'll at least pull the pan and clean it out and inspect the bottom end. I'm on the hunt for parts right now. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing, Phillip! Good luck with the flathead! Finding a good block is becoming harder, and harder...I'm told!
Bro Harry
They definitely are getting harder to find in my area. I hope it turns out to be a good one.
Looking forward to the run stand build! Keep up the great work, Phillip!
It's going to be a fun build! Thanks!
You might get a hold of iron trap garage, they may have the parts you need for the flat head.
I hope to find the pieces I need locally before having to have them shipped in. I have a few friends that have some flathead stuff. If not, I'll reach out to ITG.
Finally a reward for watching your entire video!! About time Phillip! Needs me some acid!
@@BoxcarsGarage I did it just for you Larry.
I use muriatic acid all the time. I like to get an appropriate plastic tub and submerge it and walk away. check it and rinse off when done. diluting with water increases the volume and the time but still works well. I store the solution in 5 gallon buckets in the "back 40" When the parts flash rust from rinse, I treat with OSPHO as a preservative.
I looked around for something wide enough to soak this piece in, and didn’t come across anything quickly. I have soaked small parts. You are right about storing it on the back 40 somewhere, that stuff will rust everything in your shop if you leave it open or try to use it indoors. I use phosphoric acid also, but it’s not recommended for use under epoxy primer. A Epoxy manufacturer told me it’s better to prime over a little flash rust than it is to prime over phosphoric acid / ospho. It peels off of phosphorus coatings pretty easy, So I try to limit the use of it to parts I’m storing unprimed for long periods of time.
Nice work on removing the replacement patch and removing the rust... Muratic Acid is some nasty stuff,, I usually have a fan blowing to keep the fumes at bay if there’s no wind... Also wear glasses as well as gloves...
Love the idea for the end of the videos,, can’t wait to hear the engine run my friend...
A fan, gloves, and glasses are all good ideas. This stuff is nasty for sure!
That muratic acid worked pretty good! I know that stuff smells pretty nasty and that job is sure something to do at the outside of garage. That hidden flathead stuff was cool too!
It is nasty for sure, and you are right, you don't want to use it in the garage. It will make everything in there rust over fast!
Your doing a great job! I have a question on this build your doing. With the car being a Special coupe design , If your not going to put the rear special design , My question is could you just put in place a 1928-29 rear section sheet metal with the window on the side and back ? Are they inter-changeable that will work? Hope you can understand my question ! Your doing a good Job, Thanks.
There are a couple of different ways you could go about it. The best way would be to use the rear window section, and the left and right quarte window sections from a standard coupe. They would bolt right on, but they are difficult to find. Another way is to use the back window section from a sedan, and modify it to fit. That method requires a good bit of fab work, and requires fab work to be done to the special coupe quarte window sections also. you would also have to fabricate the body line that goes between the quarter panels and the roof section. I hope that answers your question. On this car, I will be putting the top back as a special coupe. I like they way they look when done correctly. Thanks!
The Flat Head sounds like a good engine ----------- BUT -- as Brian below said ---- Iron Trap Garage thought they had a Good one too ---- Matt recommends --- start and run for twenty minutes or so --- to see if there are any water leaks ---- like CRACKS ------ his block ---- which was actually Mike's ---- ended up with a crack up inside the exhaust port ----- so it's only good for use in a boat --- Would like to see --- How you make your engine run stand --- I have a Flat Head that ---- LOOKS GOOD TOO ---- but -- darn --- to put it in and start it up only to find -- it leaks ---- a lot of work for nothing ---- Will see if you show us your --- run in stand ---- Thank You for the video ----- Have a Good Memorial Weekend ----- Rodney
I watched that video of Mike’s cracked block. That was a bummer. That’s the main reason I want a run stand so I can start them up and check them before installing them in a vehicle. I’m hoping for the best for this one. Hope you have a great memorial day as well.