Thank you George, yesterday I finished the install on all of the new electrical equipment, I really like this battery monitor, it is so easy to use, and connects to my phone without any fiddling around.
Well this is a real change up. I did not know you were a electronic nerd too! You truly are a master at multi discipline trades. John Kopp, a brother Tbird restorer and frquenter of your video is a advid restorer of electronic devices too!
It does work in landscape on my pixel 6, the only thing is that you need to scroll a little to see the lower section of the display...it may show differently on your android dash display, but it does go into landscape mode.
Hi Alvin , I am planning a similar setup with a relay but no external battery, I have understood the 3 wires from the module to the realy and also the power lines from the realy to power the module and connected to battery positive pole, what is the forth line coming from the relay (white colour's) and going where ?? Thanks brother appreciate your support
Ps I intend to locate both the sampler and the module under the bonnet, do you think both can handle the ambient temperature?? Could not locate any info in the manual about range of ambient temperature
In my setup here, I used the white wire for the ground from the heating pad to the battery, passing through the shunt. Depending on what you are connecting to the relay, your circuit could be different, a relay is only a switch, so in my setup, I need the heat pad to go to ground for resistance. The stunt is only placed on the negative side of the circuit, if this were a motor setup, the negative would still go through the shunt, but the relay would be placed inline on the positive lead only...so basically, the relay would be before the motor, not after, like I did in my video. In retrospect, I should have wired the heating pad with the relay on the positive side of the circuit, it would have been easier to understand.
I think I may do that, I have contacted the manufacturer but no reply yet, other options is to install both shunt and module inside the car and run 2 Guage 2 cables through the fire wall to the battery Negative and other one to chasis as ground/load @J_R_Shop
Hello! Thank you for creating this video! I have a question regarding its usage. Can this be used with cars or car starter batteries? If yes, do I need a larger shunt due to the spike in current caused by the car starting? I want to monitor parasitic drain current, which is under 1A I also have an mppt solar trickle system attached to the battery. However, I'm unsure if I need a larger shunt as my car battery has 500-600 cold crank amps (Honda Element 4.2L, 4 cylinder). I've seen many people using this product in RVs, but I'm not sure if they're using it on their starter battery or on their secondary/leisure battery only. I would appreciate any thoughts you may have on this. Unfortunately, I'm unable to reach the manufacturer.
Typically these are used on the auxiliary battery, and knowing the status of the battery is important for daily use. I have never installed one on the main starting battery, however I don't see why it would be an issue, the unit is installed on the negative side, and the positive side is where the load is connected. If you are just looking at a parasitic draw on your Honda, and because it will be constant with the vehicle shut off, you can do that with a multimeter, by using the amp measure setting, and with the positive cable disconnected...use the multimeter leads to bridge between the battery positive post and the positive battery cable. Just note that most inexpensive multimeters will only handle up to 5 amps, but if you're looking for a parasitic draw, then the multimeter is the simplest way.
Thanks for the info..❤❤❤
@@ഇത്കേരളമാണ്ഇവിടെഇങ്ങനാണ് you're welcome. I am presently boondocking in Arizona, and using this exact device, it works flawlessly.
Thanks for the info... how's it working 6 months later?
It has been working flawlessly ever since I installed it, I'm very pleased with it.
Hello Alvin. I enjoyed watching you demo this setup. Looks like a perfect thing for your off grid camper.
George B
Thank you George, yesterday I finished the install on all of the new electrical equipment, I really like this battery monitor, it is so easy to use, and connects to my phone without any fiddling around.
Well this is a real change up. I did not know you were a electronic nerd too! You truly are a master at multi discipline trades. John Kopp, a brother Tbird restorer and frquenter of your video is a advid restorer of electronic devices too!
Yes, my original plan for this channel was more electronic focused, then I caught the classic car bug. 😆
Just a heads-up, the app I used in this video is not the most current...for the correct application for this monitor, use the KHF app.
dose the app work in landscape mode as well? wondering how itll appear on my android headunit
It does work in landscape on my pixel 6, the only thing is that you need to scroll a little to see the lower section of the display...it may show differently on your android dash display, but it does go into landscape mode.
@@J_R_Shop thanks mate, sounds perfect!
Hi Alvin , I am planning a similar setup with a relay but no external battery, I have understood the 3 wires from the module to the realy and also the power lines from the realy to power the module and connected to battery positive pole, what is the forth line coming from the relay (white colour's) and going where ?? Thanks brother appreciate your support
Ps
I intend to locate both the sampler and the module under the bonnet, do you think both can handle the ambient temperature?? Could not locate any info in the manual about range of ambient temperature
In my setup here, I used the white wire for the ground from the heating pad to the battery, passing through the shunt.
Depending on what you are connecting to the relay, your circuit could be different, a relay is only a switch, so in my setup, I need the heat pad to go to ground for resistance.
The stunt is only placed on the negative side of the circuit, if this were a motor setup, the negative would still go through the shunt, but the relay would be placed inline on the positive lead only...so basically, the relay would be before the motor, not after, like I did in my video. In retrospect, I should have wired the heating pad with the relay on the positive side of the circuit, it would have been easier to understand.
@@talat6006I think moisture could be an issue for the module, but maybe if you had it inside a project box for protection?
I think I may do that, I have contacted the manufacturer but no reply yet, other options is to install both shunt and module inside the car and run 2 Guage 2 cables through the fire wall to the battery Negative and other one to chasis as ground/load @J_R_Shop
Hello! Thank you for creating this video! I have a question regarding its usage. Can this be used with cars or car starter batteries? If yes, do I need a larger shunt due to the spike in current caused by the car starting? I want to monitor parasitic drain current, which is under 1A I also have an mppt solar trickle system attached to the battery. However, I'm unsure if I need a larger shunt as my car battery has 500-600 cold crank amps (Honda Element 4.2L, 4 cylinder). I've seen many people using this product in RVs, but I'm not sure if they're using it on their starter battery or on their secondary/leisure battery only. I would appreciate any thoughts you may have on this. Unfortunately, I'm unable to reach the manufacturer.
Typically these are used on the auxiliary battery, and knowing the status of the battery is important for daily use.
I have never installed one on the main starting battery, however I don't see why it would be an issue, the unit is installed on the negative side, and the positive side is where the load is connected.
If you are just looking at a parasitic draw on your Honda, and because it will be constant with the vehicle shut off, you can do that with a multimeter, by using the amp measure setting, and with the positive cable disconnected...use the multimeter leads to bridge between the battery positive post and the positive battery cable.
Just note that most inexpensive multimeters will only handle up to 5 amps, but if you're looking for a parasitic draw, then the multimeter is the simplest way.