Jon Boat Transom Rebuild & Reinforce #1 - Planning
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- This is a 1436 Alumacraft riveted aluminum jon boat that needs the transom stripped, rebuilt, and reinforced. This is the first video on this subject for the JTgatoring RUclips channel. We'll go through start to finish on this project about what was needed and what was done.
Stats - 1436 LT Alumacraft jon boat, 13hp longtail mud motor with a total floating weight of 600 pounds on most days
Goal: strip the old wood out of the transom, try not to make any new holes in the hull; put thicker, stronger wood in the transom; use epoxy to seal the wood; use paint to protect the epoxy from the sunlight; secure the new wood to the transom with stainless hardware and use 5200 to help seal; use two different types of rivets to seal holes in the floor from removing old transom support and see which one holds up better over time.
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Who all misses this guy's videos! I know I do
Haha I appreciate that C Price. I miss making them. Soon enough I'll be back at it
@@JTgatoringit’s been too long bud, come on back.
@@dasaster7993 yes it has. I appreciate the support. I am working towards being able to make videos again
@@JTgatoring I was just thinking about longtail / mud motors again and wondered what ever happened to you? I was surprised to see it has been three years since you posted a video. I realize making RUclips videos is a lot of work and that people's interests change. I hope you are doing well and enjoying yourself. Good Luck and Best Wishes in whatever you do !!!
@@noyopacific Thank you. I appreciate that. I'd like to get back to it and hopefully sooner rather than later. I've had a couple things come up that took priority over making videos. I hope to get those things managed and get back to playing with my longtail. I thank you for your kind words and I wish you the best. I will make videos again, it just a question of when.
Just discovered your channel recently, and after binge watching just about every video I was sad to discover that you aren't posting anymore. Hope you get back to it soon man, your content is awesome.
I really appreciate it @StreetbeatDesigns67. I will be getting back to it. There were some things that took precedence and required my full attention. I haven't been out in the boat in a very long time. I've got some footage saved up and would like to get some of that posted and hopefully get things situated so I can start getting content back out again. Thanks again! Hopefully it won't be too much longer
@@JTgatoring Just got a Swamp Runner medium kit, putting it together today and I had to stop by to see if there was a new video yet lol
@@StreetbeatDesigns67 Haha only if. That would make for a great day. The next video that comes out, I'll reply back this for ya and let you know of it! Best of luck with your kit and I hope you enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed mine.
When u comin back? Love your hunting videos. You should make a video about the ballista pistol crossbow and go Bowfishing with it. I love being outdoors 100% of my time
Hey @todd3461 I really appreciate that. Never thought about using a crossbow for bowfishing! No set date on when I'll be able to post videos again. It will happen, it's just a matter of when. The sooner, the better. I really enjoy doing it
I just did my 1436 (very used) transom reinforcement like you were talking about using the 2x4's on the back of the rear seat to the transom....I could see the transom moving when I swing the mud motor around from the back of the boat for transport. This procedure definitely stopped that movement. Thank you for the suggestion and I'll keep you posted for when I try it out when warmer......bones hurt to much from the cold weather (old age)...lol
Bill
Awesome! I just ordered some material and supplies, but the epoxy is back-ordered right now. It should be an interesting project. I know it will be overbuilt the way I have it planned right now. But I guess that's just the fun of it and I get to show the options that are available for others. Being in Florida we are still in the 70's and just had a "cold" day with a high of 60 ish haha not complaining
Use the fiberglass epoxy resin from Lowe’s Home Depot. I see a ton of guys use that for wood dealer . Easy to get and no to bad of a price . Then they paint it once it’s all bolted it to keep the sun uv’s from breaking it down.
I’m actually going to start my build . I have the same exact setup from a 85 lowe 1436 with a 459cc and swamp runner 100” kit
I don't think either solution is bad. Looking forward to your process.
Thank you for your input SluSharkND. Still giving it some thought
I have an Alumacraft 1232 with the same transom design issues you are dealing with:
1) Too steep of an angle, which can cause trim angle issues and other problems with certain motors.
And,
2) The single transom brace that is offset way too far to one side, which causes excessive transom flex and premature failure over time due to fatigue - especially with mud motors, which are heavier, sit higher on the transom, and exert very different and potentially more harmful forces on a transom than do outboards of similar horsepower.
The transom angle is what it is, so I plan to follow your advice and carefully choose a mud motor that will work well in spite of it. As far as the excessive flex, an ounce of prevention is supposed to be worth a pound of cure. Though there are currently no signs of a problem, I am making plans to fabricate another brace just like the original, and rivet it in place equally offset on the other side. The hope is that two braces will stabilize things and head off disaster in the future. This should also be easy enough to do and very cost effective.
Wish me luck. 🤞
And thanks again for the great videos. {I sure wish you would make some more.)
Thank you! I wish you the best in your endeavor. Most people that reach out were able to put the aluminum plate on the back and never had an issue after that. It's unfortunate that I didn't know all of this when I bought the boat new, but it ended up creating this situation where people are now aware of the issue before making the same mistake I did. And now there's even more info on the subject thanks to your input. I will be making videos again, it's just a matter of when.
Love your videos man, couldn't restore my Jon boat into a mud Jon without your videos. Maybe one day you could cone catch muskie in the French broad with us 🤙
Love it. I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment like this. Thank you. In a few years, I may be up for it. I'm not that active on JTgatoring right now, but in a couple years I'll be in the position too
@@JTgatoring Sweet. I hope everything works out, can't wait to see the next vid
Hay just question when are you going to be posting again I love your content and I am going to get a mud motor because of your videos
I've got some things going on right now that have taken up the majority of my time. Content is continually being planned. I have a long list going. I will be back creating content, the question is just when. If the chaos is able to be wrangled and the pieces fall into place perfectly, then I'm hoping for the beginning of Fall. Realistically is more like Winter. Some day though. I still make time to reply to comments and help others out on forums and FB groups when I get some downtime and my phone is nearby. Thank you for your kind words Cayden. I really appreciate it. I hope you enjoy your mud motor as much as I have enjoyed mine.
Still waiting for your come back
It will happen... I'm itching to get back to it. Just a little more time
Hope all is well. Haven't seen any new videos uploaded.
Thank you Black_Window_Overland. With the current times, there have been some other priorities that have taken precedence over JTgatoring when it comes to my personal time. Once they get settled, the videos will start rolling out again
Ive run a 15 horse merc outboard on mine for bout 4 years. It does have a bit of flex at times but seems to be holding together okay
Yeah. I haven't been too pleased with this transom. It may do good with an outboard but with a mud motor, it did not last. I'm in the middle of the project now so we'll see how the new transom holds up
I got a 15 hp yamaha enduro outboard and mine creaks a ton. I hacked some stuff together. Welded some stiffener plates but I really need a new transom but I’m scared of drilling out rivets when I don’t know what I’m doing. Also to make a Jack plate since I unknowingly got a long shaft
@@DanielRodriguez-vk9of Yeah I see where you are with that. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my transom now. Not the best feeling cutting it up and drilling holes, but after the first few go, it no longer hurts hahaha
You could use L brackets, or buy 90 degree angled pieces of aluminum and make long brackets (lengthwise). Then you can get some thin aluminum plates, or buy them, two of them, squared or rectangular, then cut the necessary angle on one end and bolt them into the brackets. Should take $30-$50 in materials. Brackets go riveted onto the seat and onto the transom.
Good idea! Doing the angle and then putting plate inside of it would really do the trick!
Stupid question what size drain plug does your alumacraft have?
I think its a standard 1" plug. I do not know for sure. If I remember to look I'll update you on this post
After reading the comments, it seems that you have some things going on in your life that are more important. I hope all is well with you and your family. Your videos are very informative. I like how you went into such detail. Im about to attempt your build, today. I'm sure your hella busy, so i get it if it takes time to reply or if you don't at all. I was just wondering what ever came of your two test builds? Did you go with the angled or straight from the seat to the transom? And if there are any other tips or things you learned while doing this, that i could avoid. I appreciate your time. Hopefully you get out on the water soon! Its essential to a mans mental health.
Hey @mikalray6210, I very much appreciate that. I still check in regularly and I'm more than happy to let you know what happened. So I ended up rebuilding the transom. I replaced the wood in the transom by just cutting plywood to size, epoxying it, and painting it. I then used aluminum angle on the transom; I used aluminum square tube on the bottom of the hull running side to side, and then put angle perpendicular to that which was in-line with the angle on the transom; and then I used angle from the transom to the floor making a triangle. I bolted it all together and secured it with bolts through the hull and transom. I also added another aluminum plate on the inside of the transom. I did everything that way to show all the possibilities someone could do (I took video through out the process and will post it when I get time). Doing all of them is completely overkill. If you have any questions, just let me know. I did not attach anything to the seat. The transom does sit slightly lower in the water compared to before. Best of luck to you and thank you for taking the time to leave your kind comment.
Just my 2 cents;why not take the 2 rows of bolt hole on your current rear plate and continue those to the seat via 2 fabbed aluminum plates. The plates would go between current transom and seat .Make template out of cardboard and take to local fab shop.Bolt through transom to existing holes and bolt other end to seat.
To clarify to make sure I'm on the same page, you are thinking of using a plate that is standing up and going from the transom to the seat where it can be bolted to the inside of the transom using the existing bolt holes and then on the other end bolting it to the seat? If so, that would definitely work and I do like that idea and would probably be what I do if I wasn't making a youtube video on it and I would probably bolt it to the floor also, but with putting it on youtube, I'd like to try something that is easy enough for others to replicate with simple tools and materials. That is a solid option, and I'll make sure to mention it in an upcoming video so that if someone does like that idea they'll know about thanks to you. Thank you James!
I have done this several times,,the way that works best for me,,is a piece of 2inch wide hot roll ,3/16 inch thick,,very easy to bend,,7 foot long,,bend it accordingly,,start with like 6inches 2bolts through rub rail,angle it towards where your motor mounts at an angle,,should b about 2foot,,then,, flatten it out because your motor will clamp to this as well and angle it back towards the other side the same as the first,,hot roll bends easy,,no welding of heating,,after you get the bends rite,,take it off and paint it,,this has worked for me to keep from totally replacing the whole transom,,it will strengthen it up beyond your expectations
And putting it in the middle of the seat like that does not work,,it’s kinda like a leverage thing,,not a strong point,,the seat is attached to the sides,,it’s designed just to sit on,,rub rail mount like I am talking about,,the brace is pulling more longways,,,the only way I know to explain this,,,take a 1x4,,8foot long,,,stand it on end,,hang a 50 pound weight on the end facing the sky,,it’s pulling against the length of the board,,now take the same board and place it horizontally,,hang the same weight in the middle,,see how it bows,,,,that would b my best explanation ,, the have tried what you are doing,,just with a piece of all thread from transom to seat,,the seat will give with the bounce or it will actually tear the bolts out befor long,,running the bracing from the rub rail to the motor from both sides and bolting the motor to the bracing as well will make it super rigid,,,,2 bolts and a piece of flat iron,,simple,
And ,,one more thing,,,sorry just trying to save you a lot of work,,,but with the motor and transom bolted to this bar no more worries,,and I bet it would b quite a bit lighter,,and you don’t have to tear out all of the bracing that is already there,,and it looks clean,,and will outlast several motors
I really like that idea. So you are saying to use a 2" wide, 3/16 thick flat stock/bar. Start on the Port side with 12" flat, then say a 45-degree bend toward the transom run it flat against the transom, and then 45-degree bend to the starboard side with another 12" long flat piece there. I think it would look pretty cool too. Easy to bolt to the boat, I could also run it flat against the angled corner pieces which would give it more surface area to contact with which may help increase the strength. No matter what, I still need to replace the wood in the transom. It's all spongy. I really appreciate you taking the time to give your input. I will have re-think the support to the seat and see if it's needed or not.
@@JTgatoring pretty much,,it will look like half of an octagon shape,,but as far as running it with the corner transom braces,,never run them angles so short,,usually between 2 and 3 foot,,usually hit the rubrail somewhere about where the seat is attached and ,,where it hits the transom,,it will have a slight twist to keep it agains the transom,,,,but it is super easy to bend ,,just sort of moch it up as you go,,and I usually don’t put but about 6inches on the sides,,2bolts about 3inches from each other on each side,,rite through the rub rail,,,,if you take your time with it, it will look real good,,there would b a slight twist going towards the transom as well,,but it’s not rocket science,,,you can do it,,
And I can remember one that I did,,I took the flat and go about middle ways,,and gave myself about 8inches or whatever the Mount posts for a outboard is,,give yourself about an inch outside that just for forgiveness,,but I bent it and sort of judged where the sides were going to b bent at and cut,then that sort of let me know he to put in vise or what ever you got to bend and put the small twist,,I think I actually clamped it down with the motor one time ,,and put the twist and angle in it that way,,
Where have you’ve been?!
Unfortunately, attending to problems that have priority over the videos. I will be posting again, it's just a matter of when. It has been quite some time since I've been out on the water so I hope that it is sooner rather than later haha thank you for taking the time to leave a comment @billymoon1775
I'm thinking about the harbor freight 23 horse power
Is your transom having issues due to the long tail adding stress, or just shoddy boat work? Have you thought of trying out any "budget surface drives?"
Could be a combination of both. The wood is spongy in the transom and I bought this boat new and I always keep it covered. I think it's more of a poor hull design and I'm sure the longtail helped accentuate the issue. I have thought about testing surface drives, but not budget surface drives. I believe that the only use for a surface drive is when the boat gets too wide for a longtail or you need reverse. On boats 1542 and smaller, I think a longtail is best. Once you get bigger, then that's when I would start to think about a surface drive. Once you're in that size realm, I would not cheap out on a surface drive and I would go with a quality mud motor. I would like to test the big name brands against one another. The only "budget" surface drive is mud skipper and from the stories I hear from people commenting on these videos, to all the different facebook group chats, I want nothing to do with mud skipper. So no "budget" surface drive for me. Either get a quality longtail for your 1542 or smaller, or get a reliable surface drive for your big boat cause you most likely can't push or swim it back to the ramp.
Hey there, do have a follow up video. I just bought a 1436 2018 and transom completely rotted. What do you run for a motor?
I did just end up finishing it. I run a swamp runner longtail mud motor.
Wow its been a year since you posted
I always figured you for a more of a SPS guy but i noticed in this video you are still running the Backwater system?
Hey Jeff. It's been a while. I was having issues with the backwater kit so I was keeping it on the boat. Then I had to replace the transom and other priorities came up with life. I was not able to solve the vibration issue with the backwater kit. A couple of days ago I got a little excited for bowfishing season so I actually just put the swamp runner back on and ran the boat for the first time in 18 months. Emptied the fuel tank, put new gas in, and it ran great. Went out on the water with the swamp runner kit and had no issues so I now know that the vibration issue was not the engine, but something to do with the backwater kit.
@@JTgatoring Wonder if it was a unbalanced shaft or was this the one that you requested the 100 inch to see if it was the shaft?
I know the feeling i hear the river calling me but its just not warm enough to do overnight here
All my gear is washed and ready to go the sec it does warm up
I am still seriously thinking about opening a bait and tackle shop and boat rental here but just haven't pulled the trigger yet
Haven't decided yet between the SPS or Beaver Dam systems i like both for different reasons
Beaver Dam i dont need a different kit for 420 and 670cc that kit works for both and i will need to keep the same system on all my boats so i dont have to keep so many different parts in my shop to work on them
4 - 212 on 1236 single man or anyone under age 20
4- 420 on 1436 2 man or lots of gear
2-670 on 1648 big guys lots of gear
@@jeffccr3620 With the backwater kit, I tried different props to rule out an unbalanced prop. I then used the swamp runner kit on the same engine to rule out something bad with the engine. So I think the backwater kit I have has something unbalanced with the shaft.
The 100" shaft I was wanting to test was for the swamp runner because after 20mph I would outrun my wake with the 85" shaft and wanted to see if the added 15" would help.
SPS vs CLP. No doubt SPS. There's a reason for having a medium kit and a large kit when it comes to the 13hp engine and 22hp engine. The SPS large kit comes with a B-Shaft that is 100" long whereas the CLP comes with an A-shaft that is 100" long. An A100 shaft is 29lbs-ish and a B100 shaft is 34lbs-ish. The CLP kit will not have enough tail weight. There's a reason the CLP kit comes standard with the trim tab. It will most likely require it to handle correctly when used on a V-twin. The SPS large kit also has bigger bearings, coupler shaft, and other parts that are meant to handle the additional weight and power of the v-twin. I wondered the same thing and went into their shop and they showed me the difference between the medium and large kit. There's a big difference.
@@JTgatoring Thanks because these are good things i need to know and wouldn't unless i knew someone that has run both kits and could compare them side by side.
It does make sense to have a heavier shaft to balance out the weight and torque of the 670
Hey JT. Been 2 years since you posted. Are you coming back to RUclips?
Hey there. I enjoy making videos and would like to get back to it, but some things popped up and took priority for the time being. Once I get those things handled, I'll be back to making videos. It's not a question of if, but rather when. I would hope sooner than later.
@@JTgatoring alright man. Sounds good. Miss your content. Best of luck with whatever is happening in your life right now. 🤙🏼👍🏼
@@user-rq6in8tx4s I appreciate it. Thank you 👊
Which would be better for a Jon boat a sps long tail or a mudskipper twister?
I would never recommend a twister. It is cable-driven and unreliable. If someone is interested in a longtail or an inexpensive but reliable way to motorize the propulsion of their boat, I would recommend a swamp runner longtail.
I don’t know if anyone on here would know but my boats a 75 model sears. We’re would the HIN be. I can’t find it and it’s supposed to have one right ? It has one on the title and everything. Is it a issue if it’s missing ?
Could you post a video of how you launch and retrieve the long tail mud boat? Without the reverse function I always have trouble launching
I made a video about here - ruclips.net/video/wSQ2xE6G7go/видео.html but let me know what issues you're running into if what I do would work for you
Are you coming back?
Yes. I am still active in groups, forums, and with those who contact directly. When it comes to the videos, yes there will be more videos, it is just a question of when.
Are you using any aftermarket throttle cables I have the swamp runner medium kit and have been thru 3 cables. Curious to know if there are any better after market throttle cables.
No, I still have the same one from when I bought it. How is the cable breaking? Could it be an issue with you pulling too much tension on it having the throttle adjusted improperly?
JTgatoring you recommend a Tracker Topper 1436 over an AlumaCraft 1436 because of the complications you’ve had with your boats 🚣♀️ transom. In California Jon boats are hard to come by. Bass Pro Shops up in San Jose won’t have any Tracker Toppers for a while. The local retail marina in Salinas is a G3 dealer. I’ve been in contact with their staff, they gave me a catalog to study and potentially place an order. They are a reputable company owned by Yamaha and have many options in their inventory. Do you recommend G3? I would be interested in getting your opinion on G3 Jon boats. We don’t have many swamps in California, but we have plenty of rivers, lakes and a delta. Keep posting videos, I look forward to your reply.
Hey Artemio. Thank you for the support. I just had someone contact me about G3 boats. They have an all-metal transom, no wood. That sounds great to me right now as I'm rebuilding the current wood transom in my boat and it's taking a lot of time hence the delay in uploading a video. So it would be worth giving G3 a shot. They do have a more expensive boat, but as long as they aren't too heavy, I would definitely give them a try. I've only heard good things so far about them
JTgatoring thanks for reply. I’m inclined to continue talking to the local G3 dealer and at some point place an order through them. The options are 1436, 1442, 1448, 1544 and 1548. I consider a 1648, 1652, etc. to be to much boat 🚣♀️ for me and my purposes. Keep posting, “Jon boats are a good thing.”
@@artemioramirez4440 Yes sir. Best of luck to you. I love my 1436. I'm normally solo so the 36" bottom doesn't bother me and having a skinnier bottom helps increase the chances of a thai longtail handling easier so I liked to stay as skinny as possible when it comes to bottom width. I'd like to get an 1836 someday. But that's later on. A 1448 seems like a barge, so I'd go 1436 or 1442 and if you're going to run a TLT a 13hp would work fine on those but once you get to 15 feet long, the 22hp predator with a large kit would be required for it unless speed wasn't an issue for you. 85" shaft would be good for 36" bottom, and 100" shaft would be needed for 42" and wider
What is the range you get out of that motor? Looks to have a small fuel tank. I've a 1436 myself, going to longtail it. Great content you have on this channel. Thumbs up
Thank you Hangtown Outdoors! This engine will run full open throttle for about an hour and a half. Depending on load and prop size, most people get 18mph average (normally with an 8.5" prop) with this setup, so that would mean about 25-ish river miles on a full tank. I went up in size to a 9" prop and get 20mph at a little over half throttle so that would really increase ride time and distance. Normal max RPM is 3900, at 2200 I get around 20 mph with the 9" prop so you could get 60+ river miles doing that theoretically. I'm normally on a small body of water so I don't worry too much about fuel consumption
@@JTgatoring Great analysis. I appreciate the reply. Yeah, those 4 strokes sip gas compared to 2 stroke. Keep up the great content.
@@hangtownoutdoors19 Thank you! That 1.2-ish gallon tank normally lasts me four outings. I love it. Thanks for taking the time to reply, I appreciate it
Where you been JT?
Making a living while I can. Living in Florida, season is late fall to the end of spring and then summertime is the slow season. I haven't been on the boat in close to a year now. I'm hoping this summer won't be too brutal and I'll get some videos out
@@JTgatoring Well I hope you’re doing good man I hope to see more content coming from you. We need as much mud water content on the Internet as possible I’m trying to contribute but we need you back. Good to hear from you
@@MudMotorsMax Thank you Mud Motor Max, I appreciate it. The videos will never stop, they'll only slow down or speed up, but never stop
@@JTgatoring Excellent sounds good! I just do my channel for fun. my goal is to get as many people into mud motoring as possible that’s it I’m not competing or even trying to get monetized I just want to have a good time. Anyways have a good one JT looking forward to your next video
Hey JT I see you're running predator motors from harbor freight I live in Florida where can I get parts for that do I have to send to China or is there some place locally that I can get them I appreciate you all your information that you can give me anxiously awaiting your response thank you God bless
Hey Steve! Thank you for the kind words! Most of the parts are available online. OMB warehouse and ARC racing are the two big names out there. You can also find parts on amazon. As for local places, I would check a lawnmower shop or something similar that may have parts like that.
Have you been having any problems with the predator engines I was told by someone that after 200 hours you need to replace the valves is there anything to that and how did it predator engines hold up thank you appreciate your information and your hope thanklessly awaiting your reply
Hey Steve! One thing I always tell someone is that if they break in their predator engine and they run it for 10 hours without any hiccups, then that engine should be a solid one. If it gives you issues within the first 10 hours, exchange it for a new one. Now for the life of the engine and how long it would last, I do not know. There are people who have put 100 hours on an engine, while some have put a couple hundred hours on an engine. I do not know of anyone in the mud motor world who has put more than 1,000 hours on their single-cylinder predator longtail. I manage a 6500+ member longtail Facebook group that I could ask the question in or if you use facebook yourself, you could join and ask. I know my thai longtails, but have yet to really break down and understand engines. It is something I would like to do, but have not got around too.
I'm on Facebook what is your Facebook address
@@sef53591 facebook.com/groups/longtailmudmotors
Thank you so much for sending me the address to your Facebook channel I pressed the button join
@@sef53591 Awesome! I went ahead and accepted you into the group. There's a lot of helpful people in there
Hey man my 420 predator is cutting out on me while running. I’ve tried taking the cap off to vent and still having problems.
I like to keep things simple. Make sure you have enough oil in the engine so that it's not triggering your low oil sensor. Also, check the kill switch and make sure you have solid connections all the way around and isn't vibrating loose causing the engine to shut off. You could then check the bowl and see if theirs any debris in there that could clog up the jet or mess with fuel delivery. Wouldn't hurt to check the spark plug to make sure it's firing and burning properly. You would be able to tell if it's starving for fuel if the plugs shows it's running lean and hot.
@@JTgatoring thanks man it turns out I had to disconnect my oil sensor
@@josephtayor5128 Glad it was something simple and that you figured it out and got things working 👍
Hi there! So I know this is probably the wrong video to ask this on but I have a problem. I have almost the exact same set up as you. A 1436 Jon and a mud skipper long tail kit on a predator 420cc 13hp. I have a ton of weight in my boat including custom decking all over 4 deep cycle batterys 2 trolling motors and sometimes 3 people. I wasn't getting a whole lot of speed so I decided to go up in prop size to a 9.5" prop I went to go test it and as soon as I get my prop under the water I get zero throttle and it idles rough. I also for some reason cannot idle at low temps. The only thing I've done to the engine is replace the carberator so I guess my question is what gives? Any ideas or advice would help and that ks in advance!
The main issue is that you are asking too much out of a 1436 jon boat. The hull is not designed to handle that much weight. After a certain load is placed in the hull, no matter how much power you put behind it, the water can not move out of its own way for the boat to plane so it just plows. This puts additional stress on the engine and with that lower speeds. Also, when weight is increased, prop size is decreased. So if you have a very heavy load, you go down in prop size. I run a 9" prop empty having fun. If I have another person in the boat, the 8.5" prop rides out better. If there's even more weight in the boat, I would drop down to an 8" prop. 9.5" is way too big for 13hp engine especially with any type of load. Decrease you prop size and decrease the weight in the boat. If you can't decrease the weight in your boat, you will have to deal with the speeds you get or get a bigger boat. Put an 8" prop on and ride it out. That is probably the biggest prop your engine will be able to turn without choking out with that kind of hull design and weight you currently have on it
@@JTgatoring luckily I just got an 8 inch prop so thanks so much for this and I'll be sure to try it ASAP
@@blakenelsen2912 Yeah! Let me know how it goes for you. That 8" should be a lot better, best of luck!
@@JTgatoring that 8 inch prop was spot on then again it was only me in the boat but it should do the trick either way. One more question for you though. Ive found that im constantly having to push up to keep the prop in the water and its really straining is there any way to make it easier to keep the prop from constantly pushing up so i dont have to fight it all the time? (still pretty new to mud motors)
@@blakenelsen2912 Awesome! For the prop rising out of the water: it depends on the kit. I know you have a mud skipper but does it have a door hinge engine base or does it have pivots holes where you can adjust which hole it pivots on? Ultimately you need more tail weight. With the door hinge style, you can not adjust the tail weight. With the other style of engine base, you can adjust it. You would move the engine further back to allow more weight to be put on the tail & prop to help hold the prop in the water. Check on swamp runners adjustment video here - ruclips.net/video/FAA7j0dVrLU/видео.html
Well, I'll send you a long lengthy text. But good concept
Thank you! I'll send you a text later on. Don't want to wake you up. I do like the idea of using angle or even just using square tube aluminum. I just don't fully understand how to connect the transom to the seat or floor. After reading a few comments and letting some creative thinking take place, I'm currently thinking of trying to do a 1.5" square aluminum tube skeleton on the transom like you explained doing with angle (I may use angle depending on the price and availability) and then running a 2" flat bar, starting from the port side following on the inside shape of the gunwale, bending at the corner plates, traveling across the upper part of the transom, bending at the corning plate and then finish at the starboard side. I think the 2" plate would help support and reinforce the upper part of the transom from bending in and out. I'm still trying to come up with a solid way of supporting the upper part of the transom whether it be to the floor or to the seat. I know triangles are superior when it comes to strength so I just have to keep thinking I guess
You need to buy you a Copperhead Mud Motor you won't regret it 12 hp
For $3,500 for a 12hp engine without reverse, I would be 99.9% sure I would regret it. I do want to try a surface drive, but the only reason I would go for one is if it had reverse. With a longtail, I can at lease spin around in a circle to turn around. The engine doesn't have to be running and the longtail acts as an oar. A surface drive not so much. You either have to use reverse or pole your way around. For speed, it may put up a fight against the swamp runner I have but being three times the price and having a good change at being slower, it's not tempting enough. The swamp runner I have now handles with ease and goes fast. I'm open to trying other mud motors out and I do hear good things about the copperhead, but thats a lot of money to through down
I live In manatee I was wondering if you do work on other peoples boat I like the work you do if possible can you find me on Facebook Cory freeman so we can talk? I have a mud motor twister 420cc