my church had a auto opening and closing door but for handicap. if you used the handicaps and the door didn't close all the way, opening it would feel like almost the exact same force you put in making it unbelievably hard to open
This is cool. I’ve always found fire doors really interesting especially with electromagnetic holders. The door as you said isn’t fire rated but it definitely will make a big difference and will act as a good smoke barrier. Maybe in the future you could install a fire rated jam and door since everything you do is next level.
Great video! As a door hardware installer wanted to share some things. Using the template is great. An automatic center punch is super handy to pop the holes on the template without having to cut holes in the template. The screws would probably be too long for a 1 3/8 door so that’s probably why you had to add washers. The thru bolts were the absolute right call tho cause the door is hollow on the bottom screws but looks like top screws were into the rail of door. You did a really good install and appreciate u sharing it with us. Careful letting out the valves too much. U can let out the magic juice 😂
Nice. I knew there were door closers with the cylinder on the end and I knew there were rectangular ones but I had never made the connection that the difference was just a cover. One thing I will mention, if your HVAC is single-zone then leaving the door open vs closed could affect the temperature balance. Since your system continually circulates air and I believe you have returns on each floor then this probably won't make a difference in your case.
There is one return on the first floor and one supply so it doesn't do much on the first floor that's why it's mostly electric baseboard and fan forced
This is pretty cool! Never seen a fire door with a door closer like that in a house before. Just a question, why didn't you just install a weighted door hinge? Wouldn't that do the same?
I've had many problems before with them failing to latch the door and they are a pain to uninstall and you have to have more than one for it to be be proper
@@nics-systems-electric I have an idea about your fire alarm tones Switch it to chime so that it won’t be so loud in your house So that way all of your parents won’t have hearing aids in the future
@@KevinLyons-gn7eu the point of a fire alarm is to be loud it needs to be 75 dB. As well as they are low frequency sounders for a reason to wake you up fire alarms are not supposed to be as soothing sound.
Cool! I've never seen one of those get installed before. Btw, what exit signs with emergency lights would you recommend? Looking to install some and I want to make sure the lights are bright.
good install considering the circumstances. sucks you had to work with such a sad excuse for a door. the explanation of the adjustments was neet. I've seen some doors at work that litterly slam closed.. didn't know that could be adjusted.
Gonna do automatic dampers for the ducts too? I know they are installed for the same purposes (to prevent the spread of smoke) and are mainly found in crawl spaces, some ducts, and in mechanical rooms. Would also be a good time to play with the ability for duct detectors to control things.
@@nics-systems-electric I meant automatic dampers my bad lol. I’ll edit the comment. I think I’ve heard frequently of dampers being installed in ventilation ducts as well. They’re pretty commonly installed and wired to duct detectors or some sort of control/relay module.
@@achannelwithnopurpose1977 yes they are common in short duct runs from what I've seen larger runs usually use the natural length of the duct to stop smoke and they don't seem to need the dampers from what I've seen
@@nics-systems-electric I was thinking the furnace would be a great place to put it considering that home duct runs are way smaller than ducts in public buildings/businesses and you could smell/see smoke when you did that fog machine test that one time (yes I’m aware the blower was on during that test and you were testing something else but better to go above and beyond to have something work rather than have something still not be enough), it probably would not be a bad thing to consider. One above the blower/furnace/evaporator coil near the duct sensor on the discharge air OR one on the return inlet should do the trick as long as it’s placed where all ducts meet and is not too hard to do.
@@achannelwithnopurpose1977 would add another at least $500 to $600 cost possibly more not interested in doing that the smoke spread is minimal once shut down
It's like a cushion when you are opening the door to prevent it from slamming into the wall. After 70-85° or so it will kick in to slow the door. Its "stiffness" can be controlled via the backcheck knob.
I would like to know do you have a website I could go to, so I could try to price out a system for my house? I live in the US. I tried to PM you, BUT your Instagram account wouldn't let me. So I'm asking here.
my church had a auto opening and closing door but for handicap. if you used the handicaps and the door didn't close all the way, opening it would feel like almost the exact same force you put in making it unbelievably hard to open
It just keeps getting better!
It dose
Makes total sense if theirs a fire on a specific floor the fire door can help prevent it from spreading it to another floor
This is cool. I’ve always found fire doors really interesting especially with electromagnetic holders. The door as you said isn’t fire rated but it definitely will make a big difference and will act as a good smoke barrier. Maybe in the future you could install a fire rated jam and door since everything you do is next level.
This is awesome Nic I’m excited to see how the electric magnetic thing install goes
Great video! As a door hardware installer wanted to share some things. Using the template is great. An automatic center punch is super handy to pop the holes on the template without having to cut holes in the template. The screws would probably be too long for a 1 3/8 door so that’s probably why you had to add washers. The thru bolts were the absolute right call tho cause the door is hollow on the bottom screws but looks like top screws were into the rail of door. You did a really good install and appreciate u sharing it with us.
Careful letting out the valves too much. U can let out the magic juice 😂
Nice. I knew there were door closers with the cylinder on the end and I knew there were rectangular ones but I had never made the connection that the difference was just a cover. One thing I will mention, if your HVAC is single-zone then leaving the door open vs closed could affect the temperature balance. Since your system continually circulates air and I believe you have returns on each floor then this probably won't make a difference in your case.
There is one return on the first floor and one supply so it doesn't do much on the first floor that's why it's mostly electric baseboard and fan forced
Wow fire door in your house! Never thiught you would do that for your house, just the garage but this is nice!
Your house is slowly but surely becoming a commercial building lol
Great work, your fire alarm system also looks top notch!
Thank you
This is pretty cool! Never seen a fire door with a door closer like that in a house before. Just a question, why didn't you just install a weighted door hinge? Wouldn't that do the same?
I've had many problems before with them failing to latch the door and they are a pain to uninstall and you have to have more than one for it to be be proper
@@nics-systems-electric Ohhh okay makes sense.
@@nics-systems-electric I have an idea about your fire alarm tones Switch it to chime so that it won’t be so loud in your house So that way all of your parents won’t have hearing aids in the future
@@KevinLyons-gn7eu the point of a fire alarm is to be loud it needs to be 75 dB. As well as they are low frequency sounders for a reason to wake you up fire alarms are not supposed to be as soothing sound.
Cool! I've never seen one of those get installed before. Btw, what exit signs with emergency lights would you recommend? Looking to install some and I want to make sure the lights are bright.
Wow! Looks really good actually!
LCN is the goat
When is part 2 coming? And are you gonna do somthing for new years eve?
Great video, really interesting can’t wait to see what’s next
Thanks for the awesome content
what happens at my school is our general fire alarm system activation it kills power to the system and close the door
I'd grind down the edge of the strike plate hole so it latches
I'd like to just replace the door
good install considering the circumstances. sucks you had to work with such a sad excuse for a door. the explanation of the adjustments was neet. I've seen some doors at work that litterly slam closed.. didn't know that could be adjusted.
wow!
Nice one u did better then me bc i fell into the door breaking da hinges while install it
Lol happens to the best of us
This is a good video
Go Go Nic Go!!!!!
Closer works well which model lcn is that never seen an lcn like that
Appeared to be a 4011
Cool.
bru, imagine a fire, you run to the door before the alarm then it trips and you face plant into the door. LOL ouch
5:16 Jackson
When are you going to have the video for your fire door 🚪.
Gonna do automatic dampers for the ducts too? I know they are installed for the same purposes (to prevent the spread of smoke) and are mainly found in crawl spaces, some ducts, and in mechanical rooms. Would also be a good time to play with the ability for duct detectors to control things.
I'm assuming you were referring to automatic dampers which are usually installed in a separation I don't have any other separations though
@@nics-systems-electric I meant automatic dampers my bad lol. I’ll edit the comment. I think I’ve heard frequently of dampers being installed in ventilation ducts as well. They’re pretty commonly installed and wired to duct detectors or some sort of control/relay module.
@@achannelwithnopurpose1977 yes they are common in short duct runs from what I've seen larger runs usually use the natural length of the duct to stop smoke and they don't seem to need the dampers from what I've seen
@@nics-systems-electric I was thinking the furnace would be a great place to put it considering that home duct runs are way smaller than ducts in public buildings/businesses and you could smell/see smoke when you did that fog machine test that one time (yes I’m aware the blower was on during that test and you were testing something else but better to go above and beyond to have something work rather than have something still not be enough), it probably would not be a bad thing to consider. One above the blower/furnace/evaporator coil near the duct sensor on the discharge air OR one on the return inlet should do the trick as long as it’s placed where all ducts meet and is not too hard to do.
@@achannelwithnopurpose1977 would add another at least $500 to $600 cost possibly more not interested in doing that the smoke spread is minimal once shut down
if the door is replaced would it be replaced with a solid core door or fire rated door?
Probably solid door not necessarily fire rated
Now its ofishel he terms his home into a comrsle grade bilding
Panic bar next?
No not here
What is backcheck?
A slowing force that is hit once the door is opened past a certain point towards the end of the opening swing
It's like a cushion when you are opening the door to prevent it from slamming into the wall. After 70-85° or so it will kick in to slow the door. Its "stiffness" can be controlled via the backcheck knob.
First
I would like to know do you have a website I could go to, so I could try to price out a system for my house? I live in the US. I tried to PM you, BUT your Instagram account wouldn't let me. So I'm asking here.
I don't have a website you just have to find all the parts you need and add up cost
@@nics-systems-electric ok, thank you. Any recommendations?
@@kland15 eBay or a wholesaler