Can't wait for news on the Armorsmith alternative you are working on! Could you do an in-depth video on how to use supports and get the results you are getting? Supports have always been a struggle for me while printing helmets, especially when printing textured helmets like Deadpool for example. Thanks a lot!
It's always encouraging to see a 3D printing oriented channel talk about PPE/respirators! Instant subscribe 😂 I've been cosplaying and working as a costume and props designer for years, and over the last year or two have been getting into 3D modelling/printing and I'm getting my first filament printer soon! Def gonna check out that filler primer you recommended.
@ For sure! I’m very excited. I have a resin printer already but having my own PLA printer will let me print larger props and armour myself instead of relying on friends’ printers so I can be more ambitious and experimental with my projects.
On the PLA heat thing - putting paint (even just primer) seems to help a good bit with heat resistance. I had a pair of PLA helmets sitting on a counter in my garage directly in the sunlight on a +100F day, neither warped. There was a smaller PLA print that wasn't painted nearby and that got softish in the heat.
Got to take a boba fett variant using your armor to Glactic Civil War airsoft in November, one of the coolest events I have ever been to and learned most of it from this channel!
A great alternative to ABS is ASA. It produces less VOCs during printing. Still good to have some ventilation and needs to be in an enclosed printer. Bambu ASA is not great. Would recommend other brands like Overture or Polymaker. But it's super strong and very heat resistant.
Hey, I have been messing around with PLA-CF recently and it seems like normal layer lines are either removed for very well masked using the material so it might work with small parts using a PVA support
Nice thing about doing cuts in the slicer, is many of them automate the process of making registration pegs for alignment, if you want to use them. You can easily do the same in meshmixer, it just takes a few more steps.
Thank you for your video. I've purchased your files and appreciate your time in the craft. I don't want to sound like a Bambu Labs fanboy, but my P1S is leaps and bounds better at printing cleaner prints than my CR 10 SE. I'm not hating on Creality because it was a great printer, but out of the box, with my P1S, my prints are so much smoother and cut down my production time. I am also looking forward to your Amorsmith alternative program.
could you do a tutorial on how to do the lock key that you put on the pre-cut helmets? That has been amazing for making sure the two halves fit together perfectly
Comment on the test ring - you still want to sanity check any scaling you consider. I used the scaling ring included with the Shaxx helmet and found I had to scale the helmet about 1.15x; end result was a helmet that fits nicely and scales properly for my build. On the other hand, I tried out the test ring on the NCR Ranger helmet, and it seems a little snug, so I scaled it about 1.2-3x, and it seemed ok. I printed the 'face shield' part of the helmet and it was ridiculously oversized (looked more like a big power armor helmet). I rewatched one of Galactic Armory's videos and realized their helmets were similarly 'snug' to get on / off, I've reprinted the entire NCR Ranger helmet at the original provided scale, and it looks like it's scaled properly. Still have to put it together and test it, but it definitely wouldn't have worked scaled up at all, would've looked like a bobblehead practically.
Hey Galactic armory, me and my brother are huge fans of your channel and are about to start 3D printing ourselves, which printer would you recommend for us just starting out?
Thank you for this awesome video. I am curious about the sizing of armor. When it comes to arm gauntlets, I am curious about the difference between the wrist and the forearm. I have some Predator gauntlets where I can get the wrist to a good size. However, the forearm towards the elbow is super huge. Can I adjust these separately in a program like Armor Smith? Thank you
I love the video but I do have a tiny quarrel with the TPU section. I got a roll of overture high speed TPU and it print just fine on my mostly stock Ender 3 pro (still a Bowden setup). Some flexible filaments are still too soft and elastic for them, but I just wanted to share that small bit of info I have
@@Brandon-hd9wm unless he's done a recent one, the one I watched wasn't very helpful, at least to me. I need a 'ArmorSmith for dummies' type tutorial that doesn't skip a lot of the basic steps and make assumptions about your level of knowledge ...
We talk about it more in this video, but you can print Helldiver Armor on just about any printer, so long as you slice and gap fill. ruclips.net/video/kcOuQuQFnQ8/видео.html
Hi there, I'll buy some STL files from you in the next weeks when my first 3D printer arrives. What I need is help for the padding of a helmet. How do I do that? And another point: I were glasses, is there an easy solution to integreting that for a helmet without ordering some new glasses? 😅
upholstery foam and sometimes padding for bike helmets is what a lot of us use. Just use some glue and tack it in. As for glasses, there's no one trick to get them to work. The few people I know that wear glasses but also want to cosplay get contacts.
When it comes to sanding the filler instead of the print, I agree unless there are notable surface imperfections (there shouldn't be, but you can occasionally get some notable blobbing when swapping filament mid-print or the like), but this is usually just spot touchup to fix one or two problem areas. Even at 0.2mm layer height a properly tuned printer should produce very smooth results. If you print coarser than this (say .4) then it might be worth sanding the print, or if you have particularly notable seams or corner blobbing (tune your printer and print settings is the actual answer) but again, that's spot-fixing.
@@GalacticArmoryDepends on the defect but for some types of defects I'll just use a dremel to take them out really quickly. I'll also use flush cutters (e.g for a single blob or the like)
Hi guys ! I’ve been looking at your videos for quite a while and it made me want to print an armor for myself since I’m too tall to buy an already made costume. I just have a quick question (i didn’t find the answer through your videos.) : How many spools do you generally use for an armor/helmet and for a blaster ? (For example I ordered the Death trooper armor with his E-11D but I don’t know how much spools I’m going to need…) Thanks for your answer and keep it up !
I'd recommend sizing your armor first, then loading it into your slicer. You can then see how many grams of filament you'll need per print. It's going to depend on your slicer settings at the end of the day to determine how much filament you need. Settings + orientation of the print can lead to a difference of hundreds of grams in filament used.
Downside to resin printing, especially for props / cosplay - it can be very fragile. Punished Props has a great vid where they had a resin printed a Apex Legends kunai that they made a casting of. They then dropped both the casting and the original print from about chest height. The casting bounced. The resin print shattered.
Don't make the same mistake as me. If you can't get bondo in your country and try using wood filler. DON'T WETSAND! It reactivates the filler and you lose it all.
This is definitely gonna be useful since I’ve been procrastinating for so long.
It’s not procrastination. Its delayed productivity
Love the idea of a mac friendly armor sizing program!!!
It's making good progress!
Can't wait for news on the Armorsmith alternative you are working on! Could you do an in-depth video on how to use supports and get the results you are getting? Supports have always been a struggle for me while printing helmets, especially when printing textured helmets like Deadpool for example. Thanks a lot!
Thank you for sharing your skills. Love all the hard work you put into your stl files. I have purchased a few and they are all excellent.
I will buy the moment your program drops! I've loved armor smith but it needs support and attention.
It's always encouraging to see a 3D printing oriented channel talk about PPE/respirators! Instant subscribe 😂 I've been cosplaying and working as a costume and props designer for years, and over the last year or two have been getting into 3D modelling/printing and I'm getting my first filament printer soon! Def gonna check out that filler primer you recommended.
@@EvilCleverDog your life is going to change when you see what these printers can do!
@ For sure! I’m very excited. I have a resin printer already but having my own PLA printer will let me print larger props and armour myself instead of relying on friends’ printers so I can be more ambitious and experimental with my projects.
Really excited I found your channel. I just picked up 2 Bambu Labs P1S printers. Looking forward to my first Cosplay Project
On the PLA heat thing - putting paint (even just primer) seems to help a good bit with heat resistance. I had a pair of PLA helmets sitting on a counter in my garage directly in the sunlight on a +100F day, neither warped. There was a smaller PLA print that wasn't painted nearby and that got softish in the heat.
Got to take a boba fett variant using your armor to Glactic Civil War airsoft in November, one of the coolest events I have ever been to and learned most of it from this channel!
Great timing I’ve bought your helldivers files and I’m printing them ready for fantasy forest UK in July!
A great alternative to ABS is ASA. It produces less VOCs during printing. Still good to have some ventilation and needs to be in an enclosed printer. Bambu ASA is not great. Would recommend other brands like Overture or Polymaker. But it's super strong and very heat resistant.
I rarely dry my PETG unless it has been sitting out for a while. No issues and I live in North TX.
I always dry my petg because I'll have issues if I don't. I live in southern CA.
Hey, I have been messing around with PLA-CF recently and it seems like normal layer lines are either removed for very well masked using the material so it might work with small parts using a PVA support
Nice thing about doing cuts in the slicer, is many of them automate the process of making registration pegs for alignment, if you want to use them. You can easily do the same in meshmixer, it just takes a few more steps.
Thanks for this video, really appriciate this type of content
I bought a bunch of the Crealty Cosplay specific PLA during their black Friday special. Looking forward to printing my project.
Thank you for your video. I've purchased your files and appreciate your time in the craft. I don't want to sound like a Bambu Labs fanboy, but my P1S is leaps and bounds better at printing cleaner prints than my CR 10 SE. I'm not hating on Creality because it was a great printer, but out of the box, with my P1S, my prints are so much smoother and cut down my production time. I am also looking forward to your Amorsmith alternative program.
Tip #4.1 - hire someone to sand for you - I hate sanding so much lol
"I don't like sand"
@krisgamer008 “it’s coarse and rough and irritating and it gets everywhere.”
could you do a tutorial on how to do the lock key that you put on the pre-cut helmets? That has been amazing for making sure the two halves fit together perfectly
Comment on the test ring - you still want to sanity check any scaling you consider.
I used the scaling ring included with the Shaxx helmet and found I had to scale the helmet about 1.15x; end result was a helmet that fits nicely and scales properly for my build.
On the other hand, I tried out the test ring on the NCR Ranger helmet, and it seems a little snug, so I scaled it about 1.2-3x, and it seemed ok. I printed the 'face shield' part of the helmet and it was ridiculously oversized (looked more like a big power armor helmet). I rewatched one of Galactic Armory's videos and realized their helmets were similarly 'snug' to get on / off, I've reprinted the entire NCR Ranger helmet at the original provided scale, and it looks like it's scaled properly. Still have to put it together and test it, but it definitely wouldn't have worked scaled up at all, would've looked like a bobblehead practically.
Hey Galactic armory, me and my brother are huge fans of your channel and are about to start 3D printing ourselves, which printer would you recommend for us just starting out?
Love this video! I'd to know if you all have a cheap way to get into vacuum forming those awesome visors you all make. Would be great help!
Thank you for this awesome video. I am curious about the sizing of armor. When it comes to arm gauntlets, I am curious about the difference between the wrist and the forearm. I have some Predator gauntlets where I can get the wrist to a good size. However, the forearm towards the elbow is super huge. Can I adjust these separately in a program like Armor Smith? Thank you
I love the video but I do have a tiny quarrel with the TPU section. I got a roll of overture high speed TPU and it print just fine on my mostly stock Ender 3 pro (still a Bowden setup). Some flexible filaments are still too soft and elastic for them, but I just wanted to share that small bit of info I have
I've never found even one good tutorial on how to use the s/w which isn't very intuitive.. it would great to have something much more user friendly!
Sorry, use the what?
@@GalacticArmoryI think they mean software. Which I’m guessing armorsmith.
Frankly built has a good tutorial on armor smith
@@Brandon-hd9wm unless he's done a recent one, the one I watched wasn't very helpful, at least to me. I need a 'ArmorSmith for dummies' type tutorial that doesn't skip a lot of the basic steps and make assumptions about your level of knowledge ...
What do you use to seal the finish and prevent paint chipping?
@@claytonstmartin8659 matte clear coat typically
Oooh five EXCLUSIVE tips on the patreon?!
Yo good tips tho. I don't do cosplay but I have been doing BJD's. It's almost like cosplay but for dolls XD
PRUSA slicer is very powerful and you can do almost any slicing
What printer works best for making helldivers armor (preferably medium sized if what im assuming would considered medium)
We talk about it more in this video, but you can print Helldiver Armor on just about any printer, so long as you slice and gap fill.
ruclips.net/video/kcOuQuQFnQ8/видео.html
Hi there, I'll buy some STL files from you in the next weeks when my first 3D printer arrives.
What I need is help for the padding of a helmet. How do I do that?
And another point: I were glasses, is there an easy solution to integreting that for a helmet without ordering some new glasses? 😅
upholstery foam and sometimes padding for bike helmets is what a lot of us use. Just use some glue and tack it in. As for glasses, there's no one trick to get them to work. The few people I know that wear glasses but also want to cosplay get contacts.
@Stab_GalacticArmory thanks for the reply! Ah, yes, bike helmet padding was my first idea 👌🏻
Contacts are no Option but I'll figure it out :)
When it comes to sanding the filler instead of the print, I agree unless there are notable surface imperfections (there shouldn't be, but you can occasionally get some notable blobbing when swapping filament mid-print or the like), but this is usually just spot touchup to fix one or two problem areas. Even at 0.2mm layer height a properly tuned printer should produce very smooth results.
If you print coarser than this (say .4) then it might be worth sanding the print, or if you have particularly notable seams or corner blobbing (tune your printer and print settings is the actual answer) but again, that's spot-fixing.
@The-Anathema yeah spot fixing prints is normal but typically I won't fix those things by sanding
@@GalacticArmoryDepends on the defect but for some types of defects I'll just use a dremel to take them out really quickly. I'll also use flush cutters (e.g for a single blob or the like)
Love tip videos
Great vid! How many wall loops do you guys generally use?
@balmighty81 for helmets 2 or 3, if we're trying to make the print extra strong then 5 or 6
Hi guys ! I’ve been looking at your videos for quite a while and it made me want to print an armor for myself since I’m too tall to buy an already made costume. I just have a quick question (i didn’t find the answer through your videos.) : How many spools do you generally use for an armor/helmet and for a blaster ? (For example I ordered the Death trooper armor with his E-11D but I don’t know how much spools I’m going to need…) Thanks for your answer and keep it up !
I'd recommend sizing your armor first, then loading it into your slicer. You can then see how many grams of filament you'll need per print. It's going to depend on your slicer settings at the end of the day to determine how much filament you need. Settings + orientation of the print can lead to a difference of hundreds of grams in filament used.
Do you still recommend putting resin over your 3D print to hide the printer lines?
@joshuaarmstrong9758 yeah we still do that for small detailed areas
Do you have any suggestions for fillers that can be found in europe? It seems more limited here. (Atleast in Sweden)
I've seen some EU folks mention Motip as a replacement for Bondo.
What do you use to glue the components together?
CA Glue with an activator, but we cover all of the adhesive and gap filling techniques in this video: ruclips.net/video/kcOuQuQFnQ8/видео.html
I cant seem to download armorsmith anywhere? Can someone help ?
Link in the description
You don't need to go all the way up to 1600 grit for a metallic finish. Wet sand from 400-600 at most and you're good
Could you guys please do a halo haunted helmet
I'm very good at the cosplay creation part, I just suck on the business and media side. T-T
Business videos are something we're doing too
Is it legal to sell them?
Downside to resin printing, especially for props / cosplay - it can be very fragile. Punished Props has a great vid where they had a resin printed a Apex Legends kunai that they made a casting of. They then dropped both the casting and the original print from about chest height. The casting bounced. The resin print shattered.
That's why we use Durable Resin from Ministry of Resin for all our props and costumes. We've had zero issues.
Discount codes available?
whats the discord link?
It's connected to the Patreon
Would absolutely love a few episodes of Resin printing from your prospective. 🤓🤘🏽😝🤘🏽
I want to join the discord....
Don't make the same mistake as me. If you can't get bondo in your country and try using wood filler. DON'T WETSAND! It reactivates the filler and you lose it all.