I just got my oil pressure gauge and looked up install videos and yours was the first to pop up and it was not just the same engine its basically the same vehicle I have an 87 chevy g20 van awsome video I really appreciate the simplicity you made it easy enough for even me to understand
Great video! Simple and to the point. You made it simple and to the point! I'm hoping to install one tomorrow on my 1997 Dodge Dakota 3.9L pickup. Thanks for sharing!
Haha! I am subbed to your masonry channel, Mike. I found this through a search, started watching, and thought "damn, this dude sounds like Mike Haduck". And fancy that, it's you!
Used mechanical gauges on my performance cars of the seventies. One important note, I hop you installed a plastic or rubber bushing in the wall to the engine compartment. If not the vibration will cut the nylon line you used that came with the gauge. I also switched to a copper line with the grommet, no worries of it melting or cutting in half.
Problem with these are that the plastic line can break and give you an oil leak from hell. Recommend just replacing the original unit. Safe yourself the time and hassle.
I need to do the same thing to my old truck, Dam I have a truck that just made things that much harder. I'm no spring chicken anymore, i'm an oil man now.
SO how's it held up? I know you can run pretty much any line you want (brake line, copper line, stainless line) But hey if the plastic one it came with is still working in 2019, might as well just leave it. As insurance I plan on keeping my old oil pressure switch in the cab with a wrench so if it springs a leak I can swap it back out on the spot.
i added a pressure 3wire switch to my 53 dodge truck gave me a lead for idiot light also awire to my oil pressure gauge to me this so simple instead all that tubing
I love your fix here, I am doing a repair on the 4.3 (this engine's little sister) and I am having a hell of a time figuring out how i am going to unscrew that oil pressure guage sender unit. the bolt is in a wicked spot like where you would need a distributor wrench, only it requires an open end, like maybe a crow foot or something lol. man it is rough. any suggestions before I dig in?
Hey man, what was the part that you took out? was it the vacuum? Correct me if I am wrong. I am trying to install an oil gauge on a 67-250cid on my Nova engine. It seems this is the only choice. Thank you
nice video - did the same and installed an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge. I have seen air bubbles in the nylon line in your video - same with my line. The gauge also shows a significantly higher pressure compared with the original electrical gauge. Warm engine at idle 800 rpm: Electrical - ab. 16 psi, mechanical - ab 33 psi. At 2000 rpm: Electrical - ab. 40 psi, mechanical - ab. 60 psi. Do I have an issue because of the air bubbles, is air pressure same as fluid pressure within the gauge psi range or something else ? Thanks !
@@JoeVizethum Only way you can get rid of the air bubbles is if you bleed the hose line like you would brake lines; that means you would have to push oil all the way through the line before you connected it to the gauge. But your pressure seems correct anyway. It should be about 30 at idle on that engine from my research.
@@JoeVizethum Well there are lots of opinions about this. I would say that your reading is on the high end of a normal range. Some people say 12-15 psi per 1000 rpm. I have also read that 20-30 is normal at idle. With that in mind, you need to make sure your oil filter is new. That's the biggest cause of high oil pressure. Also make sure the viscosity of the oil is correct for where you live. If it's too high that can increase oil pressure as well. Also, a first class oil pressure gauge can cost $75-$100. So keep in mind your gauge probably cost twenty bucks. If you stay on top of your oil viscosity and filter, high pressure should not be an issue. You want to make sure it's not too low. I think in this video, when he starts the engine the gauge goes right up to 30 psi at idle. If you go significantly over 60 psi you might need to run some oil with a lot of detergent in it. But generally speaking 25-60 psi is optimum. Sounds like you are in that range.
You really can't trust these kind of gauges, to really know you got to use a professional engine gauge,, bur 35 is not bad and idle 15 or above is acceptable, I drove a truck from Florida with 10 running and none at idle, and it ran for years after that
I got some yesterday at O'Reilly's save ur self the time am headache if u buy one of these gauges get a copper line not plastic because the plastic will break after 1 yr also buy urself some compression fittings(farrow) that are flanged on both sides evenly the cone shaped ones in the video above are a pain in the ass to get to seal throw those fuckers in the trash
Can someone help? 1980 C10. Original diesel but has been swapped with an Oldsmobile cutlass 307. Getting no reading on battery voltage (sits at 9:00) fuel level stays the same 1/4 of a tank, on each gas tank. Speedometer and temp work and the dashlights work. After I brought it home and shut it off, I went to crank it again (I had had work done to it to replace the distributor, the old one someone had JB welded into place so we couldn’t set the timing. It was too advanced so it caused hard starting, they also welded my intake manifold as I had a crack in it) and I just got a clicking noise, no heat or lights coming on. followed by nothing on the next attempt at starting. I got out, checked under the hood that the battery was connected. Slammed the hood. Got back in and I had power. I replaced my battery cable clamps and cleaned the cables, the terminals, and the block ground. (The connector clamps were pretty bad and needed the replacement anyway) I’m cranking and turning over and running fine. Everything else seems to be working. All of the gauges had previously been working (Except the clock) before I took it there. They didn’t pull the cluster or mess around on the inside or near the fuel tanks. A family member had his college class do the work for me so I know it was nothing intentionally done. My theory is they unhooked something while removing the intake or the distributor and forgot to hook it back up. I’m just running out of things to check, is there another ground point or anything anyone suggests? Or a wire color or location to check out? Anything is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Hi Chevy, with all my cars as soon as I get them I run a “extra” ground wire from the battery to the block and to the frame, it eliminates half the problems with electrical stuff, thanks mike
@@mikehaduck-travel-mechanic884 the only really safe tubing to use is braided hose. I even had the copper tubing split and had oil all,over my driveway! Well worth the small amount extra compared to cheap plastic tubing
Cheesiest dash installation I have ever seen, I mean, C'mon, that looks crappy. My 84 Chevy van had the same problem. Seems old school gm sensors break often. If you go to a scrapyard, you can use the newer type oil senders with the three terminal plug, two are a switch and 1 is the sensor, ( I forgot which) . Just remember to get the plug when you get the sensor.
“I got some of.... idk what the hell you call it” lmao!!! I love it
Thanks Steve, mike
Loctite?
You made this video 5 years ago and now I'm using it, thank you sir
Mike, you have a style of teaching that I really enjoy watching. Doesn't matter if you're buttering toast, I'd still watch.
thanks Mark, I appreciate it. mike
I just got my oil pressure gauge and looked up install videos and yours was the first to pop up and it was not just the same engine its basically the same vehicle I have an 87 chevy g20 van awsome video I really appreciate the simplicity you made it easy enough for even me to understand
Thanks,
Nice G20! That's what I'm working on as well.. Exactly what I needed. Great video, thorough and straight forward.
Thanks, mike
Great video! Simple and to the point. You made it simple and to the point! I'm hoping to install one tomorrow on my 1997
Dodge Dakota 3.9L pickup. Thanks for sharing!
thanks Roddy I appreciate it. mike
mike haduck Everything worked out just as you said! finished and No problems! works great!!
Great, thanks , I appreciate it. mike
Great video! Short and straight to the point. Great video
Thanks Mondo, I appreciate it, mike
Haha! I am subbed to your masonry channel, Mike. I found this through a search, started watching, and thought "damn, this dude sounds like Mike Haduck". And fancy that, it's you!
Thanks Gyppor, yep , I am into a bit of everything I guess, I appreciate it, thanks, mike
This is so damn helpful, mostly I needed to know where the hose goes on the back of the block.
Thanks Brent, mike
This video was very helpful! Thank you!
Thanks Bryce, mike
Used mechanical gauges on my performance cars of the seventies. One important note, I hop you installed a plastic or rubber bushing in the wall to the engine compartment. If not the vibration will cut the nylon line you used that came with the gauge. I also switched to a copper line with the grommet, no worries of it melting or cutting in half.
Thanks Subgunman, It has happened to me before, I was thinking of putting the copper wire in myself , thanks mike
what if you put the plastic tubing inside a rubber hose/sheath ?
Omg thanks for your video it helped me a lot👍🏼👍🏼!!
Thanks Chuy, mike
You still need help with car?
Easier than I thought. Added a tach and temp gauge and this is the final step. Bare bones 1992 Isuzu pickup.
Thanks
at 2:22 the technical name is schmoo. But another great video. Thanks.
Thanks Mike, Now I know what to call it. lol, mike
AvE fan
thanks Thomas, I appreciate it. mike
Problem with these are that the plastic line can break and give you an oil leak from hell. Recommend just replacing the original unit. Safe yourself the time and hassle.
Thanks Kenneth, mike
Is the the sending unit you took off?
I need to do the same thing to my old truck, Dam I have a truck that just made things that much harder. I'm no spring chicken anymore, i'm an oil man now.
Hi BIg Al, I agree, the old stuff it better, thanks mike
Why does mine keep leaking at the back of the fitting
Had this same issue, I returned 3 separate brands for this same reason. Even stripped one trying to tighten it to get it to stop leaking.
Great video, but I had a mechanical sensor tube fail on me out in the middle of nowhere one time. Wasn’t pretty.
SO how's it held up? I know you can run pretty much any line you want (brake line, copper line, stainless line) But hey if the plastic one it came with is still working in 2019, might as well just leave it. As insurance I plan on keeping my old oil pressure switch in the cab with a wrench so if it springs a leak I can swap it back out on the spot.
Hi bitty, I am the same, keeping the old one, but never had a problem with the plastic line, thanks, mike
If only mine was that easy to get to.
Nice work...gotta a little leak on my car...think just needs lil compression ring tune up. Cheers, and thanks.
Thanks, mike
All that work because you didn’t want to mess with something that old but would’ve spent less time just installing a new pressure switch
Hi Jeremy, I didn’t trust the old one anyway, so killed 2 birds with one stone, I appreciate it, mike
I agree. It's a 10-40 part. Easy to replace.
you're a pretty handy guy :-)
Hi Sue, too cheap to have someone else do it. mike
Beautiful ! Thanks bro
Thanks, Mike
what size was the ratchet? mine seems to be somewhere in between 9/16 and 5/8s
How do I get the line to stick in the adapter it keeps coming out when trying to thread it in the other adapter that goes on the block?
And dont leave 20 ft of extra hose
Hi Chase, enough to fix it on the run, thanks, mike
Wouldn't have been getting a new sensor been a better option?
Hi James, something that old I am not wasting my time, thanks mike
I wish mine was that easy to do on my 95 Lt1 z28
Hi Toby, they make things harder and harder, mike
i added a pressure 3wire switch to my 53 dodge truck gave me a lead for idiot light also awire to my oil pressure gauge to me this so simple instead all that tubing
Thanks,
I have the same gauge but with copper tubing not the nylon and the gauge makes a ton of noise.
I haven’t had any problems, thanks mike
oiyouslag927 how’d you remove it because my 74 350 small block is beyond pissing me off
piece of cake!
thanks Big, I appreciate it. mike
I love your fix here, I am doing a repair on the 4.3 (this engine's little sister) and I am having a hell of a time figuring out how i am going to unscrew that oil pressure guage sender unit. the bolt is in a wicked spot like where you would need a distributor wrench, only it requires an open end, like maybe a crow foot or something lol. man it is rough. any suggestions before I dig in?
Hi Mushy, I think I had a fitting and split it, cant remember
Hey man, what was the part that you took out? was it the vacuum? Correct me if I am wrong. I am trying to install an oil gauge on a 67-250cid on my Nova engine. It seems this is the only choice. Thank you
Hi, I think the old one was electric,
He took out the original sending unit for the gauge
Good video, where did you get that aftermarket gauge?
I think it was autozone
Where did you buy yours I wanna buy one just like it???
I either bought it at auto zone or the internet, I can't remember, thanks mike
Who the hl drills a hole theu the dash with a hole saw? U do....love it. Tha k u. Take care.
Thanks mike
what is the bottle liquid you put it on mike hope you reply my comment have a good day mike
Hi, I can't remember
nice video - did the same and installed an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge. I have seen air bubbles in the nylon line in your video - same with my line. The gauge also shows a significantly higher pressure compared with the original electrical gauge. Warm engine at idle 800 rpm: Electrical - ab. 16 psi, mechanical - ab 33 psi. At 2000 rpm: Electrical - ab. 40 psi, mechanical - ab. 60 psi. Do I have an issue because of the air bubbles, is air pressure same as fluid pressure within the gauge psi range or something else ? Thanks !
Hi, I can't say it seems steady, Mike
@@mikehaduck-travel-mechanic884 thanks - so your gauge shows the right pressure with air bubbles in the line ?
@@JoeVizethum Only way you can get rid of the air bubbles is if you bleed the hose line like you would brake lines; that means you would have to push oil all the way through the line before you connected it to the gauge. But your pressure seems correct anyway. It should be about 30 at idle on that engine from my research.
@@JustVinnyMusic many thanks, dude - happy to see that my oil pressure is good
@@JoeVizethum Well there are lots of opinions about this. I would say that your reading is on the high end of a normal range. Some people say 12-15 psi per 1000 rpm. I have also read that 20-30 is normal at idle. With that in mind, you need to make sure your oil filter is new. That's the biggest cause of high oil pressure. Also make sure the viscosity of the oil is correct for where you live. If it's too high that can increase oil pressure as well. Also, a first class oil pressure gauge can cost $75-$100. So keep in mind your gauge probably cost twenty bucks. If you stay on top of your oil viscosity and filter, high pressure should not be an issue. You want to make sure it's not too low. I think in this video, when he starts the engine the gauge goes right up to 30 psi at idle. If you go significantly over 60 psi you might need to run some oil with a lot of detergent in it. But generally speaking 25-60 psi is optimum. Sounds like you are in that range.
Am I looking at an engine exposed inside the cab??
Hey Peter, I don’t know, I guess anything that will work, thanks Mike
This demo was on a Chevy Van with the doghouse off
@@Hobbit247 , the best van to work on. For me it's the easiest cause I can get to both sides of the engine. !!!!
How does oil not go all the way threw the line and into the gauge? What stops it??
It hollow
Do you need to put a compression sleeve on the motor fitting?
Hi, everything came inside the package, no problems, thanks mike
Was the oil pressure low on that? Whats it supposed to be?
You really can't trust these kind of gauges, to really know you got to use a professional engine gauge,, bur 35 is not bad and idle 15 or above is acceptable, I drove a truck from Florida with 10 running and none at idle, and it ran for years after that
Quick and easy
Thanks James, I wish all the engines were like that, thanks Mike
👍
Thanks,
Wouldn't it have been easier and cheaper to get a new sending unit?
Hi Nate, I would rater watch the pressure more accurately, especially when traveling, thanks
What's that clip thing that has the orange and black wire going to it. It's sitting near the air cleaner
I dont know, I dont see anything, I did mark the plug wires , that's it
@@mikehaduck-travel-mechanic884 asking because mine has the same thing hanging and I have no clue what it's for. It has constant power
@@ThatmainBishop cigarette lighter plug !
What was the black cylinder thing he took off?
Hi probably the old light sender
I put my compression fitting on back wards or whatever those thing are called faros
Hi chase, I know you can get those fittings at the auto stores and sometimes plumbing stores, thanks, mike
I got some yesterday at O'Reilly's save ur self the time am headache if u buy one of these gauges get a copper line not plastic because the plastic will break after 1 yr also buy urself some compression fittings(farrow) that are flanged on both sides evenly the cone shaped ones in the video above are a pain in the ass to get to seal throw those fuckers in the trash
@@kern_yak_angler its spelled 'ferrule' . Pronounced fair-rule .
@@GLF426 dude go fuck yourself you have nothing better to do with your life and its FARO fitting google it fuck tard its the 1st pic that pops up
so easy 👌
Thanks JC, mike
Is it electric sensor?
Thanks, no it is not
I don’t think they put the “Idk what the hell you call it” on mine cause now it’s leaking.
Hi Jay, I don't know they don't make anything easy to get to anymore,
Nah it’s leakin out my gage
Am I the only who doesn't know why the engine is in the cabin? Lol
Thanks Isaiah, Mike
Can someone help?
1980 C10. Original diesel but has been swapped with an Oldsmobile cutlass 307.
Getting no reading on battery voltage (sits at 9:00) fuel level stays the same 1/4 of a tank, on each gas tank. Speedometer and temp work and the dashlights work.
After I brought it home and shut it off, I went to crank it again (I had had work done to it to replace the distributor, the old one someone had JB welded into place so we couldn’t set the timing. It was too advanced so it caused hard starting, they also welded my intake manifold as I had a crack in it) and I just got a clicking noise, no heat or lights coming on. followed by nothing on the next attempt at starting.
I got out, checked under the hood that the battery was connected. Slammed the hood. Got back in and I had power.
I replaced my battery cable clamps and cleaned the cables, the terminals, and the block ground. (The connector clamps were pretty bad and needed the replacement anyway) I’m cranking and turning over and running fine. Everything else seems to be working.
All of the gauges had previously been working (Except the clock) before I took it there. They didn’t pull the cluster or mess around on the inside or near the fuel tanks.
A family member had his college class do the work for me so I know it was nothing intentionally done. My theory is they unhooked something while removing the intake or the distributor and forgot to hook it back up. I’m just running out of things to check, is there another ground point or anything anyone suggests? Or a wire color or location to check out?
Anything is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Hi Chevy, with all my cars as soon as I get them I run a “extra” ground wire from the battery to the block and to the frame, it eliminates half the problems with electrical stuff, thanks mike
Aka I’m not a mechanic and have no clue what I’m doing. Looks like aftermarket junk my friend.
Hi , I haven't had any problems, thanks
Plastic tubing is worse thing to use!
Thanks, Mike
@@mikehaduck-travel-mechanic884 the only really safe tubing to use is braided hose. I even had the copper tubing split and had oil all,over my driveway! Well worth the small amount extra compared to cheap plastic tubing
Cheesiest dash installation I have ever seen, I mean, C'mon, that looks crappy. My 84 Chevy van had the same problem. Seems old school gm sensors break often. If you go to a scrapyard, you can use the newer type oil senders with the three terminal plug, two are a switch and 1 is the sensor, ( I forgot which) . Just remember to get the plug when you get the sensor.
Thanks. Mike