Or you can use copper tubing... Mechanical gauges work all the time, so if you're trying to troubleshoot it, you can see what it does during cranking or after shutdown. Both have there place, it's a matter of personal preference.
You can use copper line instead of the plastic, I was sprayed once by hot oil and stopped at a hardware store in BFE to fix it and found the copper line. One tip, leave at least a good foot or two of the line free to move between the engine and wherever you secure it to the firewall to keep from creating a stress point in the line when the engine moves differently than the chasis
That's awesome. I work at Ideal and when you took out the tool, I said, "That looks like a Stripmaster". Made in the US since the 1960s. Almost everything on it is made in Sycamore IL. Yours appears to be missing the handle sleeves.I used to work for Auto Meter back in college. They are just a few miles away. Thanks for the free plug Freiberger. Love the show!
engine masters need to to a flywheel test with a race flywheel and a stock and maybe something in between so we can see if it is like the fans, hit like so they can se :)
ståle starheim A heavier flywheel is like putting the motor in a heavier car, it will make the engine rev slower but carry more kinetic energy at a given rpm, making the engine less sensitive, but it will not alter performance per se
Martin Fisker: not so sure about that, as a light flywheel will be less mass for the engine to pull around, sure the engine itself will not lose hp but the heavier flywheel will most likely steal some hp compared to a light one, much like radiator fans as the engine need to deal with more resistance hp should be lost, like how a heavy driveline will make a engine have less whp than if the same engine had a lighter driveline, would be interesting, as for me i got a 29 pound flywheel but consider to put on a 14,5 pound one during next clutch change.
I'm a fan of electrical gauges too. I bought a 69 malibu from a guy and the plastic oil tube broke right at the gauge and squirted a nice amount of oil all over the transmission hump carpet. I replaced it with an electrical one. Also, as many are, made by Autometer. I think my biggest like is the fact that you can crimp your own wires to the desired length to keep everything nice and tidy. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to stuff like that.
I once needed a new ferrule for my oil pressure gauge. The first auto parts store I went to wanted $1.39 for that little dinky ring. I thought 'screw that', and went down the road to the next parts place. The second place wanted 8 cents for it. Eight cents! That second store got more of my business from then on! No matter what the part is, it's good to shop around!
Those plastic lines are cheap, but if that's installed... better keep a spare kit in the glovebox. The ferrules always crush, and if that line breaks, all new fittings are needed to get back up and running.
I worked construction for 30 years so I had excess to heavy equipment gauge clusters I always ran stewart and warner gauges they are super accurate and super heavy duty and come in any and all configurations you could want and they are american made and still in business they however are mecanical but the equipment gauges come with copper oil lines so no melting on a manifold the water gauge has heavy duty sending unit with a spring wrap so no kinking god I love those gauges.
I personally prefer mechanical oil gauges. A charging or ground issue can really screw with your readings and that's not a risk I like taking with something as important as oil pressure. Just take care in routing and securing the hose and you'll be fine.
I first used the wire stripper you have back in 1970 when I had my first job after the USAF. I was working for a large German company and we sold and I installed medical X-ray equipment to hospitals. At the time all point to point wiring was done with multiconductor cables and had to be soldered. This required a lot of stripping and we used the very tool that you are holding in your hand. It is not new but works super good and is fast and reproduces the same cut time after time. This saves a lot of wear and tear on you hand.
DAVID, RE : Alternate Gauge Mounting. Have you ever heard of the Richard Petty gauge skew ? Richard would have his mechanics rotate all his gauges so the needles would point UP when normal. Makes sense. He didn't have to READ the gauges, just look at the needles. Pretty sharp !
That's a pretty common racing thing to do. I've never done it with ancillary gauges like water temp, oil pressure ect. But I always mount my tach so the shift point is straight up.
OURv Yea , I always set up my tach so the needle is somewhere I like it at redline, I usually make it the 3:00 position. that way you see a level needle and you shift.
This is common in racing, it's also relatively common in general. You may notice in most cars, at least older ones before gauges were more about function than style, if everything is in normal operating ranges, the needles should mostly be pointing straight up. The main difference with racing is the orientation of the tach.
Very common it’s like your tach I set it in the middle so you shift in the middle of tach same if you know were your oil pressure runs you set the gauges so the needle points strait up it’s nothing new been doing for years
I have the same wire stripper, given to me by my dad back in the 80's. they work awesome. he got them while in the Navy in the 60's, so they have been around for a while. good ones to have
great job on the plastic oil line. i had one split and kicked out a oil mist that felt cool. and reg copper will fatigue. i find steel or nickel / copper brake line work very good.
DF, Not a collet. The brass compression ring is called a ferrule.They do make soft copper tubing in the same size, 1/8". Had a plastic one break-you're right, quite a mess!
S&W gauges and that collet as you called it is a ferrule part of the compression fitting. Oil pressure gauges go out side of the windshield. You have the best job on the planet. 1. A cone-shaped sleeve used for holding circular or rodlike pieces in a lathe or other machine. 2. A metal collar used in watchmaking to join one end of a balance spring to the balance staff. 3. A circular flange or rim, as in a ring, into which a gem is set.
Although more expensive, they also make gauge isolators for things like gasoline and so on, so the nasty stuff stays under the hood, and you're relatively safe in the cab.
You didn't mention the one major advantage to mechanical gauges ; the full sweep design allows you to see the system being sampled in smaller increments. Longer sweep let you see say 51, 52, 53, 54 etc... Versus 50, 55, 60, 65... Tends to be more precise (not necessarily more accurate).
you can do that with electric, just not over as large a range, just over a small operating range, with too low or too high on either side.. ultimately do you need that precision or accuracy, for everyday cruising I say no(seriously, how much time do you spend looking at gauges and how much time looking at the road??) Best setup would be to have your gauges, (what ever flavour you want) and have fast acting switches(high temp, low oil, low alternator output... all the critical ones) wired to a buzzer.. buzzer sounds, check gauges and shutdown.. buzzer can even be hidden to keep the oil classic looking stock and original..
"90 degree sweep like this one", points to a 180 degree sweep. Love ya Friberger! This is actually very helpful. I have several aging Chevy trucks with wonky dash gauges.
I learned the hard way not to use the garbage plastic tubing to install oil pressure gauges. I went copper from gauge to firewall, then a braided stainless line to the engine. Solved the breaking problem.
When you set up your gauges, make sure that, when operational at nominal readings, they all point UP. That way, you don't have to actually READ the gauges: you can glance at them and see that everything is alright, and know at a glance if something is wrong.
I use Autometer Pro Comp liquid filled mechanical gauges in my car. The oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges are adapted to -4AN braided teflon hose. They're 23 years old and still work great.
I almost ended up getting a job at Auto Meter a year ago. Their HQ is about 15 min away from my house. Toured the "factory" and everything is hand assembled. Pretty awesome stuff. found another job making twice as much a week later though.
Never going with plastic tubing again it just always break!! and when it happens a 800km from your house you just feel SOOOOO Roadkill trying to fix it ^^ Just Love the show and even if i already watched this episode on mtod i watched it again just because Freiburger just explains things so clearly that even if i'm French I can understand it and work on my own car So thank you David !!
Invaluable for any young hot rodder. For the rest of us... where was this video, RUclips, and the internet 30 years ago?! Would have saved a lot of pain.
Seems like a full sweep would be even more important with the volt meter. Even with an expanded scale, the voltage you want is between 13.8 and 14.2 with the engine running. I have a partial sweep unit and the calibration is not too good.
Hey ShawnD1027, if you put the word ironic inside quotation marks you mean something not quite ironic or other and he did say exactly that word. My humble opinion is that you did a lingo boo-boo yourself. You better smack yourself as well as Mr F 😁
I used to want red interior in my 56. Once the gauge side of the oil line leaked a steady stream on my carpet. Glad I stayed with brown carpets or I would have been fuming mad. Besides that, the mechanical setup has been pretty reliable for 8 years.
built a 73 3/4 chevy out of misc junk I had laying around. the best parts I had on hand. best carpet, best captains chairs. electric door panels and dash trim from late 80s suburban. sound system ect. Cadillac of square bodies. middle of the night snow storm drift busting the copper line I used got a hole rubbed in it after coming in contact with a briaded steel grounding wire. ran it till the engine coolant temp started to get warm. no of course right about the time the dome light came on I noticed the 3 quarts of oil all over the floor, my feet, ect. didn't have to wonder why the engine was getting warm at that point.
Love that tee shirt I too find electrical gauges to be much easier to work with and install. I like full digital ones but the cost needs to come down but they are sweet as they can be programmed to your preferences
+1 for electrical. My last car had all mechanical gauges. I used the soft copper (or brass?) metal line instead of the plastic stuff but what killed it for me was the capillary tube for the engine and trans temp. I couldn't mount the engine temp where I wanted because it was too short and the trans temp I bent the tube too much (apparently) when I was changing the pan once and it quit working. It is ridiculous how much more and electric full sweep is over the short sweep through autometer so I am trying speedhut gauges on the truck I'm building now.
He is so right my mechanic oil line broke and spited oil all over. Then again goong to electric wasnt easy as space tight sender couldn’t be fited on a block so had to run separate oil pressure line frm block to sender then to gauge, again mr fedburger is helpful as always love this guy
My electric Autometer oil pressure sensor failed 3 times in 2 years before I stopped buying new ones. Oddly enough it would work at WOT every now and then
Electric is the only way to go. The mechanical water temp is not a big deal to connect, but the mechanical oil pressure setup can quickly cost you a whole engine if it leaks, and that little plastic line is prone to breaking/melting/leaking, and besides electric oil pressure gauges aren't that expensive anymore.
Toledo Tools do/did have a combination wire stripper and terminal crimper, works great. Autometer does a fuel pressure isolator kit, which iirc can also be used for oil pressure, for mechanical gauges. Only problem is it's only rated to 100psi, when I was looking at it I needed a minimum 120 psi for the mechanical injection I was going to run, Lucas PI for a Triumph TR6.
I always use mechanical gauges for oil pressure and boost because it's too important to trust to a gauge that if looses connection or something stupid wouldn't work at all but for everything thing else electrical is easier or good enough
I have the capillary tube temp gauge and the copper tube oil gauge on my Edsel. They weren't such a PITA but I also had tons of room to work with. Still afraid that I'm going to have oil shooting at me when day when cruising down the road.
Exactly why I went with electrical partial sweep VDO electric gauges in a Defender I am working on, no oil pressure line running to the dashboard what will inevitably fall off when offroading and spray oil everywhere!
Good swap-meet find! I use the Ideal Stripmaster wire strippers in the 10awg - 22awg size a lot in marine electrical work. I love them because they always get the job done and the blades are replaceable... I believe you can use blades of different size ranges as well especially if you find yourself stripping more of the small 22awg - 30awg control wire sizes, or 8awg - 12awg power cable applications.
We were cutting firewood in an old dump truck (was years ago - don't remember what kind) and when we loaded the chainsaw back into the cab the blade caught on the oil line and sprayed oil EVERYWHERE. I know your pain.
Happened to me in my cessna, the gauge sits right above your left thigh, passenger and I both wore it that day since the airport was still Twenty minutes out...
I think unless you have a very good reason (a car with no electrical system for example) then electric is the way to go, nobody wants to have engine temp/pressure oil or coolant spraying around inside their vehicle.
The only thing that could leak is if the nylon line breaks there will never be coolant because the sending unit goes into the engine with no coolant going to the meter
i replaced the plastic tubing on my auto meter oil pressure gauge with copper tubing....i've had it for years in a street/strip car and never had an issue....i don't know about now...but mechanical gauges used to be considered more accurate than electrical....
@ agentbob100... I had a mechanical oil pressure gauge ( I thought it would be more accurate & quicker to react ).. the tubing olive failed & you would be amazed how much hot high pressure oil can spray from that tiny tube.. next weekend electrical gauges & 20 years later won't even consider Mech
Just a little heads up to anybody trying to installing these eqqus gauges! These are geared towards older american vehicles. It's possible, for oil I had to buy an adapter, for coolant I had to drill a hole in my radiator because the thermometer didn't fit in the existing water temperature sensor hole. Volt meter was straight forward. They work great once I got them on! Good luck to anyone who's installing them!
If anybody wants to know, those wire strippers are $25 at lowes in the electrical department. There is a kobalt version in the tool section if anyone wants the lifetime warranty.
Damn good timing Freiburger. 🤘 I was going to explore gauges for my LJ stretch build tomorrow. You just made my job a whole lot easier. Thanks champ! 🤙
Which style of gauge is more accurate? I would think mechanical since it is a more direct link to the gauge and not another electrical device to alter the accuracy.
I never liked electric gauges myself, I've tried them in my car and when I put the turn signal on the gauges start going nuts. The voltage dip isn't something I could see when I checked with a meter but the gauges sure detected it. Never found the cause of the issue so mechanical is all I use anymore. They're cheaper anyway
My dad had a pair of very similar wire strippers (same basic design/function, don't remember the brand) back in the 60's. They look like Rock'em Sock'em robots.
Oil guages can come with a 1/8 ID or 1/16. The 1/8 is by far the best as they react very quickly. And never fail. Electric guages never react quite a quick though are simpler generally to fit and mount. Ditto with temp guages. And are effected by poor earths and voltage drop. Many OEM guages have that problem.
My sister's ex installed one of those oil pressure lines in his car. It melted and the engine compartment caught fire. Luckily we were already stopped and a 2L of mountain dew was able to douse the flame. He crimped the line and we continued on our way.
Along with the gages it's a good idea to get high quality ratchet crimpers rather then juat the cheap plier type as they give you a better connection both electrically and physically.
The manual gauges I ran on my truck had a copper line for the oil and the water line was wrapped in like a spring material so they were pretty good. Unfortunately the truck sat for like 6 months and the needle got stuck on the temp gauge so I had to replace it. Not fun.
That oil pressure line can be copper as well. Had the plastic break on me once it got older and brittle. Luckily , it broke in the engine compartment and hit the exhaust and smoked so i could see it quickly. I replaced it with copper and never had a problem again.
But HELLO! That wire stripper is good for stripping a wire in the middle of it as well. Without cutting it (so that you can hook up to signal currents or whatever). Didn't you know? Now you know. ;) This is if you want to solder the connection in case you REALLY take your wireing seriously ;P Thanks for awesome videos!
irwin i think is how its spelled but just got a set on amazon auto wire stripers they are really nice u dont even have to line up any holes just insert and strip! one of the top sellers on amazon get a pair worth every cent
20 years ago if you said electric gauge, you got laughed out of the show. Some downfalls to electrical gauges. The biggest being the sender unit. If you hook up a Hundred dollar full sweep electrical oil pressure to a AutoZone sender you really have no interest in monitoring oil pressure. Then there is the actual wire connections. Horrible Freight crimp connectors are just about as good as twisting it up and sticking bubble gum on it. There is a difference in quality of wires that you can use. Its not just the gauge face that makes the difference, it the entire job. I did find it funny that Dave did not want to route a tube through the firewall, but will have to do the exact same thing with wires. I know that anyone who has worked on a Hot Rod has seen the singular color wire job...That maybe the best reason to use mechanical units. Like anything else you get what you pay for and the effort you put in it.
I don't really have a problem with mechanical guages other then oil pressure and of course the obvious fuel pressure. As someone who flies for a living, "wet" guages are a bad idea inside with you. I do electrics and get high quality ones. If you suspect your oil psi is going bad, you could easily plumb it in with the sender use a T and put a little PSI guage under the hood. Depends on the brand and quality as to what you get. Cost of course is a consideration. Another thing I don't do and remove when I find them are ammeters where ALL the power goes through them. Lots of things have burned to the ground due to those.
Everyone's different. I still prefer mechanical gauges - for the oil pressure for sure... just run a copper line instead. Autozone keeps it in stock and it's cheap. As for the choice full sweep or not... It doesn't really bother me (even if I mix the two types) because all of the gauge needles read at different angles during engine operation anyway. I prefer the full sweep style - I think they're easier to read at a glance.
Copper line should never be used for petroleum products as copper is a hydrocarbon oxidation catalyst. This includes all your common automotive fluids with the exception of coolant and brake fluid.
I flat-out guarantee you that there's plenty of copper, and copper-containing "yellow metals" in your engine, right now, just swimming in oil. And likely some more in your tranny, as well.
bcubed72 -- Your confidence in this is entirely understandable, there's plenty of places in engine where copper lines and a brass bushings would seem to make perfect sense. Indeed in early engines (before World War II) there were lots of copper and brass parts. As a mechanic for the past 30 years or so I can say from a first-hand perspective that there is very, very little copper in a modern engine. The only exceptions that come to mind are the brass inserts added to plastic intake manifolds so that they can take machine screws and of course carburetor jets which no longer exist on current vehicles. Occasionally you'll see an oilite bushing in the top of the distributor but it's there because it doesn't see engine oil and needs to get by on a dab of silicone grease. Distributors of course also do not exist on current vehicles. I can't really speak to automatic transmissions as that's a specialty that I'm not involved in. In manual transmissions synchronizers are typically made from brass. A fact that I hadn't really pondered in relation to hydrocarbon oxidation before your comment, thanks for that. Since synchronizers are a wear part they are constantly dosing the gear oil with very fine brass particles with a fresh bare metal surface. Which seems to explain why the interior of manual transmissions are always heavily varnished. Don't mean to argue, just keeping the conversation balanced.
While that may be true, the oil in the copper tubing is pretty much static... it might move a quarter inch from 0-xxx PSI, but it's not like it's circulating. Failing that, the fitting holding the tubing, be it nylon or the copper, is brass.
It takes about 1.5 seconds to strip a wire with a wire cutters. And usually that is the tool you have in hand when working with wires. Why would you need a separate tool for that?
Because it's easy to accidentally cut the wire. I mean, that's what they're supposed to do. And if you have two wires, you then have two wires of unequal length going to the same place, which means you have to either cut the other one to match or deal with some considerable packaging issues. Having done a whole shitload of wire stripping and soldering to build this PC, I can attest that it's easier to strip wires with a knife than wire cutters. Wire _strippers_, on the other hand, I use the manual ones from Harbor Freight and do it by feel. The automatic ones tend not to work all the time and the sized plier-type tend to take part of the wire off with it. The really good automatic ones like he's got there are REALLY expensive, and for good reason.
You dont accidentally cut a wire if you get used to using cutters. Maybe at first yes, but after some time it becomes natural. And for the time that takes to put down cutters ant take the stripper you can strip 3 or more wires with cutters.
The stripper is better at cutting than the cutter is at stripping. I dunno what god of wire stripping you've been watching, but it sounds like you're quite mistaken about how it's done. I've had better success with scissors than wire cutters.
i have been working with car alarms, when i started working there they handed me some tools and one of them was wire strippers similar to these in the video. I used those quite a lot. After some time I changed my job to work with car audio and project cars. The first day in new place I asked for the strippers, guys at the shop laughed, and said dude use the cutters. They had a few types of wire strippers but they were never used. I got used to use cutters, never came back to strippers.
Ohh. With the bigger wires those kinds of things use, I guess cutters would work fine. Much more margin for error. I'm used to tiny 1-amp wires you could snap with your teeth. That makes sense. I guess everyone prefers something different.
volksworld and streetmachine magazines did tests on electric gauges and autometer and vdo where in the bottom 3 for accuracy (out of 10). digital dakota and apexi where the top 2 . some of the autometer gauges where way way out
On the latest Roadkill Extra on MotorTrend on Demand David asked us to comment on what kind of tech we want to see more of; I would like to learn more in depth about carb circuits, mechanical versus vacuum secondaries and how to rebuild it myself. I loved watching Dulsich show us how to bench set a carb before installing it, I love seeing David and Mike opening up or tapping on the carbs. Having seen so many of your videos, I feel more confident about tearing into one myself, but I know there is more I could learn from you guys. Thanks for all you do!
I used to like autometer gauges... Then I bought some. In the grand scheme they're not very expensive, hence they're not very good. In fact, I think they're trash. I prefer a proper electronic gauge. Big fan of the AEM line personally.
Nothing on how huge electrical sending units are compared to a mechanical one, and how sometimes they don't fit, or that a mechanical gauge is (typically) more accurate, but that's okay.
I've heard this before, but my follow-up question has always been, "How inaccurate is electricity?" lol. A cheap gauge, electrical or mechanical, will be less accurate than a high-quality gauge.
Engine Masters should do a electric Vs mechanic gauge speed and precision test, because when dealing with oil, fuel, and boost it's important for them to be both fast and precise.
Generally i like mechanical oil pressure gauges. Unless i have the money to buy quality electric guages. Which has only happened like twice. And yes, i count the one that came with the car.
one bad thing with cheap electric gates is the sensor ground, sensor usually work with much lower voltage the the 12v in the car, something like 3 to 5 voltage. the sensor use groun of the engine block so if there is a bad ground between the engine and the frame, example if you have battery ground wire on the engine and the engine and no ground wire from engine to frame. there might be a cople of volts drop between the engine and frame just turning on your headlights. this means your reading can be highly inaccurate. had a frend replacing the oil pump on a vw and after the reading didn't get eny better he used a mechanical meter to check the pressure from the engine base and it was OK. all I'm saying is that don't rebuild your engine during oil pressure before you doublecheck
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Or you can use copper tubing...
Mechanical gauges work all the time, so if you're trying to troubleshoot it, you can see what it does during cranking or after shutdown.
Both have there place, it's a matter of personal preference.
You can use copper line instead of the plastic, I was sprayed once by hot oil and stopped at a hardware store in BFE to fix it and found the copper line. One tip, leave at least a good foot or two of the line free to move between the engine and wherever you secure it to the firewall to keep from creating a stress point in the line when the engine moves differently than the chasis
That's awesome. I work at Ideal and when you took out the tool, I said, "That looks like a Stripmaster". Made in the US since the 1960s. Almost everything on it is made in Sycamore IL. Yours appears to be missing the handle sleeves.I used to work for Auto Meter back in college. They are just a few miles away. Thanks for the free plug Freiberger. Love the show!
engine masters need to to a flywheel test with a race flywheel and a stock and maybe something in between so we can see if it is like the fans, hit like so they can se :)
ståle starheim great idea! flywheel must make a difference
hmm faster reving = more hp? or vice versa? heavy flywheel may cost more hp but has more momentum so perhaps more tq? :O yes we need to know :p
ståle starheim A heavier flywheel is like putting the motor in a heavier car, it will make the engine rev slower but carry more kinetic energy at a given rpm, making the engine less sensitive, but it will not alter performance per se
I would love to see engine masters try to get Diesel torque from a pump gas engine. That would be awesome.
Martin Fisker: not so sure about that, as a light flywheel will be less mass for the engine to pull around, sure the engine itself will not lose hp but the heavier flywheel will most likely steal some hp compared to a light one, much like radiator fans as the engine need to deal with more resistance hp should be lost, like how a heavy driveline will make a engine have less whp than if the same engine had a lighter driveline, would be interesting, as for me i got a 29 pound flywheel but consider to put on a 14,5 pound one during next clutch change.
I'm a fan of electrical gauges too. I bought a 69 malibu from a guy and the plastic oil tube broke right at the gauge and squirted a nice amount of oil all over the transmission hump carpet. I replaced it with an electrical one. Also, as many are, made by Autometer.
I think my biggest like is the fact that you can crimp your own wires to the desired length to keep everything nice and tidy. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to stuff like that.
I once needed a new ferrule for my oil pressure gauge. The first auto parts store I went to wanted $1.39 for that little dinky ring.
I thought 'screw that', and went down the road to the next parts place. The second place wanted 8 cents for it. Eight cents! That second store got more of my business from then on!
No matter what the part is, it's good to shop around!
Those plastic lines are cheap, but if that's installed... better keep a spare kit in the glovebox. The ferrules always crush, and if that line breaks, all new fittings are needed to get back up and running.
great info on the oil gauge line. i went to brake line tubing. a little harder to run , BUT you only have to do it once.
I worked construction for 30 years so I had excess to heavy equipment gauge clusters I always ran stewart and warner gauges they are super accurate and super heavy duty and come in any and all configurations you could want and they are american made and still in business they however are mecanical but the equipment gauges come with copper oil lines so no melting on a manifold the water gauge has heavy duty sending unit with a spring wrap so no kinking god I love those gauges.
I personally prefer mechanical oil gauges. A charging or ground issue can really screw with your readings and that's not a risk I like taking with something as important as oil pressure. Just take care in routing and securing the hose and you'll be fine.
I first used the wire stripper you have back in 1970 when I had my first job after the USAF. I was working for a large German company and we sold and I installed medical X-ray equipment to hospitals. At the time all point to point wiring was done with multiconductor cables and had to be soldered. This required a lot of stripping and we used the very tool that you are holding in your hand. It is not new but works super good and is fast and reproduces the same cut time after time. This saves a lot of wear and tear on you hand.
DAVID,
RE : Alternate Gauge Mounting.
Have you ever heard of the Richard Petty gauge skew ?
Richard would have his mechanics rotate all his gauges so the needles
would point UP when normal.
Makes sense. He didn't have to READ the gauges, just look at the needles.
Pretty sharp
!
That's a pretty common racing thing to do. I've never done it with ancillary gauges like water temp, oil pressure ect. But I always mount my tach so the shift point is straight up.
OURv
Yea , I always set up my tach so the needle is somewhere I like it at redline, I usually make it the 3:00 position. that way you see a level needle and you shift.
This is common in racing, it's also relatively common in general.
You may notice in most cars, at least older ones before gauges were more about function than style, if everything is in normal operating ranges, the needles should mostly be pointing straight up. The main difference with racing is the orientation of the tach.
Very common it’s like your tach I set it in the middle so you shift in the middle of tach same if you know were your oil pressure runs you set the gauges so the needle points strait up it’s nothing new been doing for years
I have the same wire stripper, given to me by my dad back in the 80's. they work awesome. he got them while in the Navy in the 60's, so they have been around for a while. good ones to have
great job on the plastic oil line. i had one split and kicked out a oil mist that felt cool. and reg copper will fatigue. i find steel or nickel / copper brake line work very good.
DF, Not a collet. The brass compression ring is called a ferrule.They do make soft copper tubing in the same size, 1/8". Had a plastic one break-you're right, quite a mess!
S&W gauges and that collet as you called it is a ferrule part of the compression fitting. Oil pressure gauges go out side of the windshield. You have the best job on the planet.
1. A cone-shaped sleeve used for holding circular or rodlike pieces in a lathe or other machine.
2. A metal collar used in watchmaking to join one end of a balance spring to the balance staff.
3. A circular flange or rim, as in a ring, into which a gem is set.
Although more expensive, they also make gauge isolators for things like gasoline and so on, so the nasty stuff stays under the hood, and you're relatively safe in the cab.
You didn't mention the one major advantage to mechanical gauges ; the full sweep design allows you to see the system being sampled in smaller increments. Longer sweep let you see say 51, 52, 53, 54 etc... Versus 50, 55, 60, 65... Tends to be more precise (not necessarily more accurate).
you can do that with electric, just not over as large a range, just over a small operating range, with too low or too high on either side..
ultimately do you need that precision or accuracy, for everyday cruising I say no(seriously, how much time do you spend looking at gauges and how much time looking at the road??)
Best setup would be to have your gauges, (what ever flavour you want) and have fast acting switches(high temp, low oil, low alternator output... all the critical ones) wired to a buzzer.. buzzer sounds, check gauges and shutdown.. buzzer can even be hidden to keep the oil classic looking stock and original..
"90 degree sweep like this one", points to a 180 degree sweep. Love ya Friberger!
This is actually very helpful. I have several aging Chevy trucks with wonky dash gauges.
I learned the hard way not to use the garbage plastic tubing to install oil pressure gauges. I went copper from gauge to firewall, then a braided stainless line to the engine. Solved the breaking problem.
The way Freiburger gets tired just by talking about the work needed to place a mechanical gauge 😂
Installed mech gauges in early '70s. Oil press tubing was copper
When you set up your gauges, make sure that, when operational at nominal readings, they all point UP. That way, you don't have to actually READ the gauges: you can glance at them and see that everything is alright, and know at a glance if something is wrong.
Good tip
I have had one of the plastic lines melt, so if you go to your local autoparts store you can get a copper line to replace it.
I use Autometer Pro Comp liquid filled mechanical gauges in my car. The oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges are adapted to -4AN braided teflon hose. They're 23 years old and still work great.
Mechanical Gauges is my preference and Stewart Warner is my brand
I almost ended up getting a job at Auto Meter a year ago. Their HQ is about 15 min away from my house. Toured the "factory" and everything is hand assembled. Pretty awesome stuff. found another job making twice as much a week later though.
Never going with plastic tubing again it just always break!! and when it happens a 800km from your house you just feel SOOOOO Roadkill trying to fix it ^^ Just Love the show and even if i already watched this episode on mtod i watched it again just because Freiburger just explains things so clearly that even if i'm French I can understand it and work on my own car So thank you David !!
Invaluable for any young hot rodder. For the rest of us... where was this video, RUclips, and the internet 30 years ago?! Would have saved a lot of pain.
Seems like a full sweep would be even more important with the volt meter. Even with an expanded scale, the voltage you want is between 13.8 and 14.2 with the engine running. I have a partial sweep unit and the calibration is not too good.
or as a happy medium David you can use copper line to run to the mechanical oil pressure gauge..not very pricey and stronger than the plastic!
It's not "ironic" that the wire stripper is made in the same vicinity as Auto Meter -- it's coincidence. :P
Gotcha. Sometimes I can't hold back my language zealotry. ;)
Hey ShawnD1027, if you put the word ironic inside quotation marks you mean something not quite ironic or other and he did say exactly that word. My humble opinion is that you did a lingo boo-boo yourself. You better smack yourself as well as Mr F 😁
There’s also the first company to make spray paint is in sycamore also.
I used to want red interior in my 56. Once the gauge side of the oil line leaked a steady stream on my carpet. Glad I stayed with brown carpets or I would have been fuming mad. Besides that, the mechanical setup has been pretty reliable for 8 years.
built a 73 3/4 chevy out of misc junk I had laying around. the best parts I had on hand. best carpet, best captains chairs. electric door panels and dash trim from late 80s suburban. sound system ect. Cadillac of square bodies. middle of the night snow storm drift busting the copper line I used got a hole rubbed in it after coming in contact with a briaded steel grounding wire. ran it till the engine coolant temp started to get warm. no of course right about the time the dome light came on I noticed the 3 quarts of oil all over the floor, my feet, ect. didn't have to wonder why the engine was getting warm at that point.
Love that tee shirt
I too find electrical gauges to be much easier to work with and install. I like full digital ones but the cost needs to come down but they are sweet as they can be programmed to your preferences
+1 for electrical. My last car had all mechanical gauges. I used the soft copper (or brass?) metal line instead of the plastic stuff but what killed it for me was the capillary tube for the engine and trans temp. I couldn't mount the engine temp where I wanted because it was too short and the trans temp I bent the tube too much (apparently) when I was changing the pan once and it quit working. It is ridiculous how much more and electric full sweep is over the short sweep through autometer so I am trying speedhut gauges on the truck I'm building now.
He is so right my mechanic oil line broke and spited oil all over. Then again goong to electric wasnt easy as space tight sender couldn’t be fited on a block so had to run separate oil pressure line frm block to sender then to gauge, again mr fedburger is helpful as always love this guy
Those wire strippers have been out for years in one form or another. This 61 year old mechanic prefers the mechanical gauges.
Best video I've watched so far, Thanks for ALL THE INFORMATION. Very Well Explained
in 7 minutes the equivalent of a week of automotive tradeschool
My electric Autometer oil pressure sensor failed 3 times in 2 years before I stopped buying new ones. Oddly enough it would work at WOT every now and then
Electric is the only way to go. The mechanical water temp is not a big deal to connect, but the mechanical oil pressure setup can quickly cost you a whole engine if it leaks, and that little plastic line is prone to breaking/melting/leaking, and besides electric oil pressure gauges aren't that expensive anymore.
Toledo Tools do/did have a combination wire stripper and terminal crimper, works great.
Autometer does a fuel pressure isolator kit, which iirc can also be used for oil pressure, for mechanical gauges. Only problem is it's only rated to 100psi, when I was looking at it I needed a minimum 120 psi for the mechanical injection I was going to run, Lucas PI for a Triumph TR6.
I always use mechanical gauges for oil pressure and boost because it's too important to trust to a gauge that if looses connection or something stupid wouldn't work at all but for everything thing else electrical is easier or good enough
**Mosin1929. DF, Not a collet. The brass compression ring is called a ferrule.**** In the trade, we call that thing an Olive.
hell yeah! IDEAL!! I worked there for years, great company.
Brutal truth from a man who has lived the pain himself
I have the capillary tube temp gauge and the copper tube oil gauge on my Edsel. They weren't such a PITA but I also had tons of room to work with. Still afraid that I'm going to have oil shooting at me when day when cruising down the road.
I like Smites gauges that are fitted to my car. They always give me a thrill when the work. which is not often. It's a real lottery pick each day
Exactly why I went with electrical partial sweep VDO electric gauges in a Defender I am working on, no oil pressure line running to the dashboard what will inevitably fall off when offroading and spray oil everywhere!
We use those in aviation espically for soldering as the lay of the wire when you remove the coating stays intact.
Good swap-meet find!
I use the Ideal Stripmaster wire strippers in the 10awg - 22awg size a lot in marine electrical work. I love them because they always get the job done and the blades are replaceable... I believe you can use blades of different size ranges as well especially if you find yourself stripping more of the small 22awg - 30awg control wire sizes, or 8awg - 12awg power cable applications.
I hit my knee on a mechanical gauge pod in a dentside ford. Sprayed me and the rest of the cab with hot oil.
We were cutting firewood in an old dump truck (was years ago - don't remember what kind) and when we loaded the chainsaw back into the cab the blade caught on the oil line and sprayed oil EVERYWHERE. I know your pain.
i have a 77 dent side ford and had the same thing happen but it filled my boot up with extreme hot oil still got burn scares!!!
Chris Jacobs nah just life experiences and storys about them not behind the computer stories lol
Happened to me in my cessna, the gauge sits right above your left thigh, passenger and I both wore it that day since the airport was still
Twenty minutes out...
Chris Jacobs say's the guy with his mother's car
I think unless you have a very good reason (a car with no electrical system for example) then electric is the way to go, nobody wants to have engine temp/pressure oil or coolant spraying around inside their vehicle.
The only thing that could leak is if the nylon line breaks there will never be coolant because the sending unit goes into the engine with no coolant going to the meter
agentbob100 I agree! signals go inside, not hi temp of high pressure
i replaced the plastic tubing on my auto meter oil pressure gauge with copper tubing....i've had it for years in a street/strip car and never had an issue....i don't know about now...but mechanical gauges used to be considered more accurate than electrical....
@ agentbob100... I had a mechanical oil pressure gauge ( I thought it would be more accurate & quicker to react ).. the tubing olive failed & you would be amazed how much hot high pressure oil can spray from that tiny tube.. next weekend electrical gauges & 20 years later won't even consider Mech
John Becay hmm
Just a little heads up to anybody trying to installing these eqqus gauges! These are geared towards older american vehicles. It's possible, for oil I had to buy an adapter, for coolant I had to drill a hole in my radiator because the thermometer didn't fit in the existing water temperature sensor hole. Volt meter was straight forward. They work great once I got them on! Good luck to anyone who's installing them!
If anybody wants to know, those wire strippers are $25 at lowes in the electrical department. There is a kobalt version in the tool section if anyone wants the lifetime warranty.
Those are made in China
love the explination of what happens when a line breaks in your car! lol
Damn good timing Freiburger. 🤘
I was going to explore gauges for my LJ stretch build tomorrow.
You just made my job a whole lot easier.
Thanks champ! 🤙
Which style of gauge is more accurate? I would think mechanical since it is a more direct link to the gauge and not another electrical device to alter the accuracy.
thanks for the explanation about mechanical vs Electrical
i live right near sycamore, they have a sweet dirt track there and its always fun to go watch races
I never liked electric gauges myself, I've tried them in my car and when I put the turn signal on the gauges start going nuts. The voltage dip isn't something I could see when I checked with a meter but the gauges sure detected it. Never found the cause of the issue so mechanical is all I use anymore. They're cheaper anyway
Could be a bad ground
My dad had a pair of very similar wire strippers (same basic design/function, don't remember the brand) back in the 60's. They look like Rock'em Sock'em robots.
Oil guages can come with a 1/8 ID or 1/16. The 1/8 is by far the best as they react very quickly. And never fail.
Electric guages never react quite a quick though are simpler generally to fit and mount. Ditto with temp guages.
And are effected by poor earths and voltage drop. Many OEM guages have that problem.
I installed mechanical auto meter phantom 3/58 water, trans temperature oil pressure 6 years ago on my rig works everyday
My sister's ex installed one of those oil pressure lines in his car. It melted and the engine compartment caught fire. Luckily we were already stopped and a 2L of mountain dew was able to douse the flame. He crimped the line and we continued on our way.
Along with the gages it's a good idea to get high quality ratchet crimpers rather then juat the cheap plier type as they give you a better connection both electrically and physically.
Solder and heat shrink. 👍
The manual gauges I ran on my truck had a copper line for the oil and the water line was wrapped in like a spring material so they were pretty good. Unfortunately the truck sat for like 6 months and the needle got stuck on the temp gauge so I had to replace it. Not fun.
Love that guy he tells you like it is!
That oil pressure line can be copper as well. Had the plastic break on me once it got older and brittle. Luckily , it broke in the engine compartment and hit the exhaust and smoked so i could see it quickly. I replaced it with copper and never had a problem again.
Thank you for a clear explanation. Great video.
replace the plastic tubing for copper no melting or braking and the little fitting you had is a nut and ferril compression fitting
Had some fun with 60 psi and a nylon oil pressure line. Little fire, and huge mess during a nitrous pass.
But HELLO! That wire stripper is good for stripping a wire in the middle of it as well. Without cutting it (so that you can hook up to signal currents or whatever). Didn't you know? Now you know. ;)
This is if you want to solder the connection in case you REALLY take your wireing seriously ;P
Thanks for awesome videos!
That vice is a beast!
Another neat wire stripper is the thermal wire stripper.
It's mechanical for me whenever possible.
I just think that they are more accurate.
irwin i think is how its spelled but just got a set on amazon auto wire stripers they are really nice u dont even have to line up any holes just insert and strip! one of the top sellers on amazon get a pair worth every cent
They do make copper tubing for the oil pressure gauge. It’s a permanent fix from then on.
20 years ago if you said electric gauge, you got laughed out of the show. Some downfalls to electrical gauges. The biggest being the sender unit. If you hook up a Hundred dollar full sweep electrical oil pressure to a AutoZone sender you really have no interest in monitoring oil pressure. Then there is the actual wire connections. Horrible Freight crimp connectors are just about as good as twisting it up and sticking bubble gum on it. There is a difference in quality of wires that you can use. Its not just the gauge face that makes the difference, it the entire job. I did find it funny that Dave did not want to route a tube through the firewall, but will have to do the exact same thing with wires. I know that anyone who has worked on a Hot Rod has seen the singular color wire job...That maybe the best reason to use mechanical units. Like anything else you get what you pay for and the effort you put in it.
Fully agree I converted a set of mechanical oil and water temperature over to electrical, much easier to route etc.
That style of wire stripper is older than I am. The bloody best things ever
I don't really have a problem with mechanical guages other then oil pressure and of course the obvious fuel pressure. As someone who flies for a living, "wet" guages are a bad idea inside with you. I do electrics and get high quality ones. If you suspect your oil psi is going bad, you could easily plumb it in with the sender use a T and put a little PSI guage under the hood. Depends on the brand and quality as to what you get. Cost of course is a consideration. Another thing I don't do and remove when I find them are ammeters where ALL the power goes through them. Lots of things have burned to the ground due to those.
Have the same wire stripper it rocks!
Informative video...thanks! Comments section? Not so much. Had to scroll a long ways down to find any relevant discussion on the video topic.
Had to run a 6" extension to fit the oil pressure sender on my olds 455 running electric gauges .
Everyone's different. I still prefer mechanical gauges - for the oil pressure for sure... just run a copper line instead. Autozone keeps it in stock and it's cheap. As for the choice full sweep or not... It doesn't really bother me (even if I mix the two types) because all of the gauge needles read at different angles during engine operation anyway. I prefer the full sweep style - I think they're easier to read at a glance.
You can get copper line for the oil psi gauge for like $12
Copper line should never be used for petroleum products as copper is a hydrocarbon oxidation catalyst. This includes all your common automotive fluids with the exception of coolant and brake fluid.
I flat-out guarantee you that there's plenty of copper, and copper-containing "yellow metals" in your engine, right now, just swimming in oil. And likely some more in your tranny, as well.
bcubed72 -- Your confidence in this is entirely understandable, there's plenty of places in engine where copper lines and a brass bushings would seem to make perfect sense. Indeed in early engines (before World War II) there were lots of copper and brass parts. As a mechanic for the past 30 years or so I can say from a first-hand perspective that there is very, very little copper in a modern engine.
The only exceptions that come to mind are the brass inserts added to plastic intake manifolds so that they can take machine screws and of course carburetor jets which no longer exist on current vehicles.
Occasionally you'll see an oilite bushing in the top of the distributor but it's there because it doesn't see engine oil and needs to get by on a dab of silicone grease. Distributors of course also do not exist on current vehicles.
I can't really speak to automatic transmissions as that's a specialty that I'm not involved in. In manual transmissions synchronizers are typically made from brass. A fact that I hadn't really pondered in relation to hydrocarbon oxidation before your comment, thanks for that. Since synchronizers are a wear part they are constantly dosing the gear oil with very fine brass particles with a fresh bare metal surface. Which seems to explain why the interior of manual transmissions are always heavily varnished.
Don't mean to argue, just keeping the conversation balanced.
While that may be true, the oil in the copper tubing is pretty much static... it might move a quarter inch from 0-xxx PSI, but it's not like it's circulating.
Failing that, the fitting holding the tubing, be it nylon or the copper, is brass.
i would only use copper when making a/c system custom for like a rat rod or somthing i have done it with connections and stuff
really like the tech roadkill extras
It takes about 1.5 seconds to strip a wire with a wire cutters. And usually that is the tool you have in hand when working with wires. Why would you need a separate tool for that?
Because it's easy to accidentally cut the wire. I mean, that's what they're supposed to do. And if you have two wires, you then have two wires of unequal length going to the same place, which means you have to either cut the other one to match or deal with some considerable packaging issues.
Having done a whole shitload of wire stripping and soldering to build this PC, I can attest that it's easier to strip wires with a knife than wire cutters. Wire _strippers_, on the other hand, I use the manual ones from Harbor Freight and do it by feel. The automatic ones tend not to work all the time and the sized plier-type tend to take part of the wire off with it. The really good automatic ones like he's got there are REALLY expensive, and for good reason.
You dont accidentally cut a wire if you get used to using cutters. Maybe at first yes, but after some time it becomes natural. And for the time that takes to put down cutters ant take the stripper you can strip 3 or more wires with cutters.
The stripper is better at cutting than the cutter is at stripping.
I dunno what god of wire stripping you've been watching, but it sounds like you're quite mistaken about how it's done. I've had better success with scissors than wire cutters.
i have been working with car alarms, when i started working there they handed me some tools and one of them was wire strippers similar to these in the video. I used those quite a lot. After some time I changed my job to work with car audio and project cars. The first day in new place I asked for the strippers, guys at the shop laughed, and said dude use the cutters. They had a few types of wire strippers but they were never used. I got used to use cutters, never came back to strippers.
Ohh. With the bigger wires those kinds of things use, I guess cutters would work fine. Much more margin for error. I'm used to tiny 1-amp wires you could snap with your teeth. That makes sense.
I guess everyone prefers something different.
Great video,I used mechanical oil gauge,,never again,,new carpet big bucks...
volksworld and streetmachine magazines did tests on electric gauges and autometer and vdo where in the bottom 3 for accuracy (out of 10). digital dakota and apexi where the top 2 .
some of the autometer gauges where way way out
If your looking for gauges that are made in the USA check out New Vintage USA. Some of the best designed gauges and they are also made by hand
On the latest Roadkill Extra on MotorTrend on Demand David asked us to comment on what kind of tech we want to see more of; I would like to learn more in depth about carb circuits, mechanical versus vacuum secondaries and how to rebuild it myself. I loved watching Dulsich show us how to bench set a carb before installing it, I love seeing David and Mike opening up or tapping on the carbs. Having seen so many of your videos, I feel more confident about tearing into one myself, but I know there is more I could learn from you guys.
Thanks for all you do!
I used to like autometer gauges... Then I bought some. In the grand scheme they're not very expensive, hence they're not very good. In fact, I think they're trash.
I prefer a proper electronic gauge. Big fan of the AEM line personally.
Nothing on how huge electrical sending units are compared to a mechanical one, and how sometimes they don't fit, or that a mechanical gauge is (typically) more accurate, but that's okay.
I've heard this before, but my follow-up question has always been, "How inaccurate is electricity?" lol. A cheap gauge, electrical or mechanical, will be less accurate than a high-quality gauge.
Engine Masters should do a electric Vs mechanic gauge speed and precision test, because when dealing with oil, fuel, and boost it's important for them to be both fast and precise.
they made the same wire strippers back in the 70s. my dad still has his.
One thing not mentioned about mechanical gauges is they will continue working after your battery dies or even when you engine is shut off.
And most of them are water proof, or rather unaffected by water, prob not the Volts or Amps.
Generally i like mechanical oil pressure gauges. Unless i have the money to buy quality electric guages. Which has only happened like twice. And yes, i count the one that came with the car.
one bad thing with cheap electric gates is the sensor ground, sensor usually work with much lower voltage the the 12v in the car, something like 3 to 5 voltage.
the sensor use groun of the engine block so if there is a bad ground between the engine and the frame, example if you have battery ground wire on the engine and the engine and no ground wire from engine to frame.
there might be a cople of volts drop between the engine and frame just turning on your headlights. this means your reading can be highly inaccurate.
had a frend replacing the oil pump on a vw and after the reading didn't get eny better he used a mechanical meter to check the pressure from the engine base and it was OK.
all I'm saying is that don't rebuild your engine during oil pressure before you doublecheck