Electrical/automation engineer here. Solder is a far superior electrical connection when compared to butt splices. It ensures full electron flow as apposed to crimps that can become loose over time due to normal heat cycles of the seasons. That being said, you def want to use proper heatshrink etc. BTW...LOVE your videos!!!! Can hardly wait for the STI 2.0!!!
I've always been under the assumption that for Motorsports wiring solder will crack from vibration and break over time leading to a weak connection? 🤔 and thank you! That should be a fun one to do here soon. Already miss that car 🔥
@@Smeedia This is the first time you've ever responded to me. Haha, but my opinion was only that solder is much like welding, in that the two structure elements become one. But later in your video the butt crimp ends were absolutely the way it should have been done. I was thinking splice instead of termination point. My bad. Although you may be referring to unleaded solder. leaded solder is still available and it won't crack etc. Cool thing to know...NASA only allows a splice if done with solder and in a certain way. Interesting stuff. Go live again soon so I can DOE NO!
@@philipmclamore fundamentally, you're right, but most every OEM recommends crimp over solder . Soldering IS better, but a bad solder job doesn't last nearly as well as an average crimp job.
Solder is not for motorsport use. You will very rarely find solder on a motorsport harness. A proper crimp is much stronger. Soldering a pcb and electronics is different than soldering wires that are under a lot of heat and stress. 2 different applications. I would also recommend if possible depinning the connectors and rerunning one single wire instead of a bunch of crimps. I recommend taking some HP Academy classes on motorsport wiring.
@@philipmclamore like mentioned above, in your description most solder joints don't see vibration and temp swings like an engine bay. I've been a 12v tech for decades and I never solder. They almost always fail when I did it.
Triple apillar gauges has been a goal of mine for my big turbo truck and civic. As my wrx its been a thing on the back of my mind as well. This install is action packed with great info, I'd say you nailed it Tanner. Thanks for what you do👍🏼!
Small point to note but the add-a-fuses are technically directional. These descriptions are when you are looking at the add-a-fuse with the pigtail on the RIGHT side. In the "correct" orientation 12V runs up the left pin, splits between the 2 fuses, and then down the pigtail. In the other orientation 12V runs up the right, through the spot where the existing fuse goes, then goes through the new fuse and down the pigtail. Not saying you can't run the fuses in series but the intent of an add-a-fuse is to run the circuits in parallel so you can bump up the fuse size of the new circuit if you wish. I added heated side mirrors to a car that already had a circuit for them, but trying to find the wiring wasn't worth it. So I only ran a fuse for my new circuit and left the existing open. I learned this about add-a-fuses the hard way.
Good to know! I've always just used them as a way to add in another power source without having to tap the ignition wire or another source. Good info to have though! 😁
Just a few days ago I had my exhaust manifold melt my oil temperature sensor wire... wish I had seen this video first! Going to redo my wiring after watching this, ty for all the educational content
BRO!!! I just installed the double gauge speedometer cluster for my Subbie. Oil pressure/oil temperature gauge and ethanol gauge. It was a PITA to run all those wires through my firewall. Ty for the informative video as usual Also I am excited to see the power to $$$ ratio on the EVO. Our Subbies take about 15K to get them just over 300whp 😆😭😭😭😭
I hate wiring but I do it daily for work. I've used those same strippers for the last 7 years and they are my favorite. The right tools always makes things easier.
So, kind of some constructive criticism lol. The only reason I would use an add a fuse would be to power a relay. Relays dont take much power at all. Less risk there. So use the add a fuse to power a relay for the 12v switch source then have an additional fuseblock for all your 12v switch sources. You can power all your gauges from the fuse block and have additional sources for other things later. Saying add a fuse and proper hook up just doesn't quite go together lol. Love your videos keep up the good work.
You can hardwire into your radio adapter harness, atleast that’s what I did. You get all of your 12v constant, ignition, illumination and you can do ground but I did a seperate ground
Man all that gauge wiring makes having a single CAN Gauge feel like a lifesaver. One gauge that can display anything the ECU sees. Im using mine for CANLambda, boost, oil pressure, IAT, Coolant temp, battery Voltage. Obviously you need a CAN Capable ECU. Also, if you wanted to minimalize those power and ground wiring, you could run the Add-a-fuse to a small bussbar behind the gauges and power them all there. Same thing for the ground. Good work though my dude!
@@Smeedia absolutely understand. I don't really have anything all that great around here. I usually order from Amazon like yourself. relays and higher quality wire I order online. Excited to see the Evo up and running. I dig the gauge setup too. Easy and in sight
That oil port you're looking at on the head is a regulated port. You won't see true pressure there. You can go to the oil filter housing, there are 2 ports or swap out the stock sensor on the back of the block for the dummy light and put the relocation sensor there.
I was looking into gauges but this is what stopped me. I heard some pretty mixed reviews about the aem units and I was under the assumption they were supposed to be the best out of all the brands
That part you don't know what it is and its 3d printed is basically just what you get with a set of wrenches. I suggest a dual alligator clip soldering setup. That way nothing will move as much and they usually come with a magnifying glass for small jobs. And your butt joint crimp connectors. I love the ones with solder in them, weatherproof and it solders the wires when you heat gun them for a much better connection
Are you sure it wasn’t a grounding issue? I didn’t see where the grounds went, but if you dint scuff the grounding area for that stack of ground wires…….. I know you already know this but you usually figure it out pretty fast. I just find it odd that 2 AEM gauges that were brand new didn’t receive ground. I am glad they are replacing them but I also wonder if there could have been a simple grounding issue. Just up up the amazing content cause I wanna ride with you in these builds, I know you will finish what you start…. And it’s gonna be amazing 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Verified grounds, all the gauges share 1 central ground on the chassis, if none of them worked I would think that. But the fact that 2 work kinda eliminates that, plus verified with the multimeter 🙏
i wish there were some cool gauge pods like evos have for my wrx. all i can find is the 2 pod setup that go around your main gauges or the triple pod that replaces the little screen above the radio. just not many cool options. ive been looking into doing vent pods but dont wanna lose my vents lol
Do you plan to make a video on cleaning the interior? Am curious on what you use to restore the leather on the seats & steering wheel. Plus cleaning the pedals
🤔 No soldering in the car, eh? So much for my feeling high and mighty for.having done it so carefully for my side markers and stereo. Good stuff, Tanner! Thanks!
You can do it. Just know that if they ever stop working check where you soldered. There's a good chance the solder cracked and the connection came apart.
Unfortunately I'm doing my 6 speed swap for my 14 wrx next weekend, I was hoping you'd do yours first so I could use it as a cheat sheet. Super stoked anyways
@@Smeedia you got it man! I don't know if you're new gauges came yet but if they did and they work then the gauges were definitely at fault. If you Ohm the ground wire at the gauges connectors side with ground and there's high OHMs then there's a break in the ground or something similar and it was likely just the harness.
Have your old AFR install video saved. Have the AEM guage coming in soon. Should I just go ahead and get that aftermarket sensor you suggested in the old troubleshooting video to avoid issues with the stock sensor that comes with the guage?
At 14:15 into the video that silver box (resistor pack stock inj) mounted on the firewall will need a bypass delete kit. I just saved you an rough idle troubleshooting video 😂
Have you ever used a powerbus? They work amazing if your doing a bunch of gauges or other stuff being wired in. Some even come with a positive and negative bracket.
Can a man ask for a CANBUS feature on what to know and how to set it up? I’d like to get a screen, maybe some sensors, etc, and honestly not sure where to start. For example, I’d like to add a wideband to my tune, but I don’t think you can now? I’d like to understand how to get various CAN devices communicating and logging. Haltech has been extremely understanding with my amateur-hour questions, and I know HP University could take me through it. Just curious if you could teach/show th topic in the way you do it.
@@Smeedia well, see - I don’t know. I don’t have any problem with Cobb’s GreenSpeed for modding my daily, but the idea of a Haltech ECU with the Haltech IC7 is really appealing, but, again… trying to make sure I fully understand how best to take advantage of CANBUS and how to budget for maximizing options/sensors/features. The AEM dash and feature set is really appealing, but I don’t believe there’s a Subaru-compatible ECU(?). Lots to learn and want to make sure I’m not just following instructions, but understanding the underlying technology and how to properly deploy it for maximum utility.
Another great video! I HATE the wiring in my car. I have a remote starter in it and it's fucking the car up, and the radio is all jacked up. I gotta get it all fixed
@@Smeedia I don't even wanna fuck with I, I'm having someone that specializes in electrical handle it. It'll cost me like 200 dollars to fix everything and take out the subs and amps.
My boost gauge needle occasionally creeps up when I am not in boost. When I move the silicone tube connected to gauge the needle goes back down to zero. I assume the tube is clogged or has a leak correct? Should I just replace the tube ?
I just sold my STI and now looking at 09 Spec Bs, what's a good baseline price? Most I see are between 130k-150k miles. Worth $12k for 135k miles totally stock?
Hey, I know you made a video on the DCCD already but, I'm about to STI trans swap my WRX and I neglected to buy a DCCD controller. Will I be okay to drive home (~80miles) from where I do the swap? Silly question but you seem really knowledgable on the subject
May I ask, as I am struggling to pass everything through my firewall grommet, which grommet are you passing everything through for your evo?? I hear the one under the glovebox is best.. but i dont know 😅
Bro I rebuilt my ej20 and I pulled it in December been waiting for the machine shop I almost have it together but I really need help with the evap vacuum lines and coolant lines and I can't find any how to vids or literature please help me
I have that gauge in my 93 honda integra and it works fine so it might just be the gauge itself honestly because I changed the sensor on my temp gauge and it still reads wrong so I'm sure if I get a new gauge it will work fine gauges come junk all the time once I bought a brand new tbi holley 670cfm for my 92z71 and out the box had a bad injector and they ate 137 for one😢😂 so yea products that ate bad get placed on the shelves and Noone knows it but the people who get screwed when they end up with that bad part that seems new
That brass oil pressure sensor will crap out on you due to vibrations etc.(ask me how I know) when it does it’ll scare the crap out of you cause the oil pressure will be at 0 on start up and gradually increase, when it happens replace it with a stainless steel sensor
@@Smeedia lowdoller-motorsports…..yes just like that, a buddy of mine put me onto them and so far no issues, the best part: a fraction of the price of a haltech or AEM one
I hateee wires, mannn i cant find the Defis 52mm red racers, it seems theyre descontinued, im considering AEM for my AFR, What other alternate gauge brand to Defi?
@@Smeedia same here man, Prosport JDM looks good but theyre garbage as far of accuracy. I was checking this brand Revel VLS, They dont look bad, but dont know how good their performance is, got to dp some research.
@@Smeedia i did try the Autometer one but i think the one you have is from JDcustoms the ortiz custom pod. It looks alot similar to it. Very clean set up going to be doing my gauges today following your video my man. I apprecitae the content you put out it helps alot
It seems like AEM gauges are shit. Correct me if I’m wrong but spending $200 plus on gauges should come with acknowledgment that they work. Yet I’ve seen multiple videos of them not working. Do they not test them before the hit the product line?
I did a cobb redline air intake and grimmspeed tmic and a cobb accessport also a lot more bolt on..but now sometimes at idle I get a p0068 code MAP/MAF- Throttle position correlation any advice on how to fix this??
I used to love telling customers to destroy the defective parts. They were like "really?" Yeah man have at it, hit it with a sledge Idgaf, just show me it broken & fucked up so no one can use it. We don't wanna calltag it and it ain't worth getting back here to then send back to mfgr. Just break it dude.
Electrical/automation engineer here. Solder is a far superior electrical connection when compared to butt splices. It ensures full electron flow as apposed to crimps that can become loose over time due to normal heat cycles of the seasons. That being said, you def want to use proper heatshrink etc. BTW...LOVE your videos!!!! Can hardly wait for the STI 2.0!!!
I've always been under the assumption that for Motorsports wiring solder will crack from vibration and break over time leading to a weak connection? 🤔 and thank you! That should be a fun one to do here soon. Already miss that car 🔥
@@Smeedia This is the first time you've ever responded to me. Haha, but my opinion was only that solder is much like welding, in that the two structure elements become one. But later in your video the butt crimp ends were absolutely the way it should have been done. I was thinking splice instead of termination point. My bad. Although you may be referring to unleaded solder. leaded solder is still available and it won't crack etc. Cool thing to know...NASA only allows a splice if done with solder and in a certain way. Interesting stuff. Go live again soon so I can DOE
NO!
@@philipmclamore fundamentally, you're right, but most every OEM recommends crimp over solder . Soldering IS better, but a bad solder job doesn't last nearly as well as an average crimp job.
Solder is not for motorsport use. You will very rarely find solder on a motorsport harness. A proper crimp is much stronger. Soldering a pcb and electronics is different than soldering wires that are under a lot of heat and stress. 2 different applications. I would also recommend if possible depinning the connectors and rerunning one single wire instead of a bunch of crimps. I recommend taking some HP Academy classes on motorsport wiring.
@@philipmclamore like mentioned above, in your description most solder joints don't see vibration and temp swings like an engine bay.
I've been a 12v tech for decades and I never solder. They almost always fail when I did it.
As much as its an anticlimactic ending it shows that nothing truely goes as planned. And it was super helpful and educational
Still glad I could show it and so the walk through, sucks those two were dead ones 😮💨
Triple apillar gauges has been a goal of mine for my big turbo truck and civic. As my wrx its been a thing on the back of my mind as well. This install is action packed with great info, I'd say you nailed it Tanner. Thanks for what you do👍🏼!
Eyyyy thank you Omi! Hopefully helps some peeps out!
Thanks bro for your help! Thanks to you I was able to install gauges on a 1984 truck I enjoy working on.
Small point to note but the add-a-fuses are technically directional. These descriptions are when you are looking at the add-a-fuse with the pigtail on the RIGHT side. In the "correct" orientation 12V runs up the left pin, splits between the 2 fuses, and then down the pigtail. In the other orientation 12V runs up the right, through the spot where the existing fuse goes, then goes through the new fuse and down the pigtail. Not saying you can't run the fuses in series but the intent of an add-a-fuse is to run the circuits in parallel so you can bump up the fuse size of the new circuit if you wish. I added heated side mirrors to a car that already had a circuit for them, but trying to find the wiring wasn't worth it. So I only ran a fuse for my new circuit and left the existing open. I learned this about add-a-fuses the hard way.
Good to know! I've always just used them as a way to add in another power source without having to tap the ignition wire or another source. Good info to have though! 😁
Just a few days ago I had my exhaust manifold melt my oil temperature sensor wire... wish I had seen this video first! Going to redo my wiring after watching this, ty for all the educational content
Anytime 🙏🙏🙏 trying to help where I can!
BRO!!! I just installed the double gauge speedometer cluster for my Subbie. Oil pressure/oil temperature gauge and ethanol gauge. It was a PITA to run all those wires through my firewall. Ty for the informative video as usual
Also I am excited to see the power to $$$ ratio on the EVO. Our Subbies take about 15K to get them just over 300whp 😆😭😭😭😭
Those wires are always a PIA to run 😅 glad to hear you got it though! Very curious to see what the evo puts down 🔥
ALWAYS ALWAYS SOILDER!! soilder bonds really deep into wires, the soilder connections will never break as long as they have heat shrink
B and C are 1 in the same. And saw your smart flasher install last night. You have come a long way my friend. Much better content
perfect timing! about to install prosport gauges for my triple gauge pod dash
Phhhhh very nice! The pro sport gauges are 🔥
PERFECT TIMING, I’m doing this on my evo x this weekend, thanks for the great tutorial
I found the best way to wire in gauges is to tie into your stereo. Give it a try sometime. Especially if you run a gauge that uses illumination.
I hate wiring but I do it daily for work. I've used those same strippers for the last 7 years and they are my favorite. The right tools always makes things easier.
Thise strippers have become my favorite set I've had to use 🔥
I was just thinking about doing a wiring and guages on my car and boom you make a video about it let's go bro
😁🥳😁🥳😁
So, kind of some constructive criticism lol. The only reason I would use an add a fuse would be to power a relay. Relays dont take much power at all. Less risk there. So use the add a fuse to power a relay for the 12v switch source then have an additional fuseblock for all your 12v switch sources. You can power all your gauges from the fuse block and have additional sources for other things later. Saying add a fuse and proper hook up just doesn't quite go together lol. Love your videos keep up the good work.
Definitely another way of doing it 🤝 I've just always stuck with the add a fuses to keep from cutting or adding more wires or harnesses then needed 🙏
Installing things yourself is the way.
Thanks for the video.
Super super helpful video. I’ve been looking for hours for a video like this. Now I definitely have an idea for how I want to do it
I feel like I always see everyone having issues with AEM Gauges brand new out the box I’m honestly not surprised
Seems to be happening more and more
Fire 🔥 fire 🔥 fire 🔥 thanks for the in depth instructions makes me want to give it a shot…
You can do it my man!
You can hardwire into your radio adapter harness, atleast that’s what I did. You get all of your 12v constant, ignition, illumination and you can do ground but I did a seperate ground
Man all that gauge wiring makes having a single CAN Gauge feel like a lifesaver. One gauge that can display anything the ECU sees. Im using mine for CANLambda, boost, oil pressure, IAT, Coolant temp, battery Voltage. Obviously you need a CAN Capable ECU. Also, if you wanted to minimalize those power and ground wiring, you could run the Add-a-fuse to a small bussbar behind the gauges and power them all there. Same thing for the ground.
Good work though my dude!
Not a bad idea at all! Mainly was working with what I could snag locally but might do this whenever doing multiple gauges 👀
@@Smeedia absolutely understand. I don't really have anything all that great around here. I usually order from Amazon like yourself. relays and higher quality wire I order online. Excited to see the Evo up and running. I dig the gauge setup too. Easy and in sight
LP
Love the content man! Bring back the 60fps!
Mmmmm I might 🤔
Happy to see best wiring practices. Very excited for the first start up!
At this point just need a few more things to come in, build the fuel line and I think we're ready to go 🥳
Get this guy to 100k already 💯💯
❤️❤️❤️
Always great watching your video's as theres always something to learn.
David
Alqays glad I can share 🙏🙏🙏🙏
That oil port you're looking at on the head is a regulated port. You won't see true pressure there.
You can go to the oil filter housing, there are 2 ports or swap out the stock sensor on the back of the block for the dummy light and put the relocation sensor there.
Thanks for this. Definitely going to see if I can do this.
You can do it 🥳🥳🥳🥳
When he mentioned not running wires through the fender and the door........ I felt personally attacked. LMAO!
RS232 is serial communication not sure what it is used for in this instance but it carries data! :)
Good to know! I would assume it would be used for a standalone or to a stock ecm if needed 👀
Solid content as always Tanner! Always checking my youtube notifications for your vids haha
Eyyyy always appreciate the support my man 🙏🙏🙏
I was looking into gauges but this is what stopped me. I heard some pretty mixed reviews about the aem units and I was under the assumption they were supposed to be the best out of all the brands
Thanks for sharing video and wiring install for future work. Lol on breaking the gauges.
Lol gauge destruction is always fun
Tanner always shootin fire 🤣
FIREEEEE!!!!
That part you don't know what it is and its 3d printed is basically just what you get with a set of wrenches. I suggest a dual alligator clip soldering setup. That way nothing will move as much and they usually come with a magnifying glass for small jobs. And your butt joint crimp connectors. I love the ones with solder in them, weatherproof and it solders the wires when you heat gun them for a much better connection
Are you sure it wasn’t a grounding issue? I didn’t see where the grounds went, but if you dint scuff the grounding area for that stack of ground wires…….. I know you already know this but you usually figure it out pretty fast. I just find it odd that 2 AEM gauges that were brand new didn’t receive ground. I am glad they are replacing them but I also wonder if there could have been a simple grounding issue. Just up up the amazing content cause I wanna ride with you in these builds, I know you will finish what you start…. And it’s gonna be amazing 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Verified grounds, all the gauges share 1 central ground on the chassis, if none of them worked I would think that. But the fact that 2 work kinda eliminates that, plus verified with the multimeter 🙏
"proper" is maybe an auxiliary fuse block. Maybe not an add-a-fuse. Just my 2 pennies
i wish there were some cool gauge pods like evos have for my wrx. all i can find is the 2 pod setup that go around your main gauges or the triple pod that replaces the little screen above the radio. just not many cool options. ive been looking into doing vent pods but dont wanna lose my vents lol
For the GRs the A pillar gauge pod is okay, I just don't like slapping gauges there 😅
WOOO WIRING!
.
.
.
Interesting way of tearing them down. I wonder what's up with gauge QA lately.
Wiring is always so many fun 😅🔥
😅😅😅😅 Unique destruction methods... Great tutorial Tanner... Nice and clean ✅️
Lol they told me to get creative with how I destroyed them 😅😅😅
Do you plan to make a video on cleaning the interior? Am curious on what you use to restore the leather on the seats & steering wheel. Plus cleaning the pedals
Going to make a video of trying to clean up the entire car 🙏 paint. Interior everything 🤝
🤔 No soldering in the car, eh? So much for my feeling high and mighty for.having done it so carefully for my side markers and stereo. Good stuff, Tanner! Thanks!
You can do it. Just know that if they ever stop working check where you soldered. There's a good chance the solder cracked and the connection came apart.
I wouldn't say anti climatic, you got to go ham with a 🔨. Sick progress on the evo, starting to get excited
Lol you right 😅🔥
I recently got oem jdm sti mirrors for my 11 sedan can you please do an in-depth video on the wiring the mirrors
Yes, once the evo is out of the garage the wrx is coming in 🤝
Hell yeah thanks tanner just got mine in
Unfortunately I'm doing my 6 speed swap for my 14 wrx next weekend, I was hoping you'd do yours first so I could use it as a cheat sheet. Super stoked anyways
Gotta wait to do it until I have the evo running so i have a car to drive lol I wish you luck though!
@@Smeedia thanks, if I run any weird quirks I'll give you a heads up
Testing your grounds you want to test Continuity with OHMs not Voltage. Ohms will verify continuity with ground in the battery
Good to know, I'll start doing this from now on 🙏 thank you!
@@Smeedia you got it man! I don't know if you're new gauges came yet but if they did and they work then the gauges were definitely at fault. If you Ohm the ground wire at the gauges connectors side with ground and there's high OHMs then there's a break in the ground or something similar and it was likely just the harness.
Circuit boards are usually made of various layers of copper and FR4 which stands for flame retardant. Now the plastic parts on the other hand….
When the touch came out 🤣☠️🔥🔥
It had to happen 🤣🤣
@@Smeedia fire fire ( Beavis and butthead voice )
Fire! (Bevis voice)
🔥🔥🔥
Everything you said about wiring is me.
I’m right here lol.
It is okay... we can get through it 🙏
when adding the 2 gauges in 1 wire what fuse size did u use ?
Nothing to add but commenting for spreading the Russle view of things.
Have your old AFR install video saved. Have the AEM guage coming in soon. Should I just go ahead and get that aftermarket sensor you suggested in the old troubleshooting video to avoid issues with the stock sensor that comes with the guage?
It's really hit or miss on those sensors. I'd hold off to see if yours is good 🙏
Can you explain the setup with the fuse taps? The size of the new fuse and factory
Fing love this!!!!!
🙏🤝🙏🤝🙏
At 14:15 into the video that silver box (resistor pack stock inj) mounted on the firewall will need a bypass delete kit. I just saved you an rough idle troubleshooting video 😂
Ordered one today 😅🤝
That was still funny as hell kata ya ya hi ya kata quit running away
Tried to escape 🤣
Great video I'm gonna be trying to wire up my own gauges coming up here soon
Everything catches on fire eventually! 😈
When you extend harnesses what size wire do you recommend using?
Is AEM reliable? Seems sometimes good, sometimes bad. User error or poor factory quality? Yer thoughts
Honestly they're super hit or miss on what ya get 😮💨
Have you ever used a powerbus? They work amazing if your doing a bunch of gauges or other stuff being wired in. Some even come with a positive and negative bracket.
I've never herd of them before 🤔👀
@@Smeedia they are super helpful!!
@@Smeedia it keeps removing it. Kofarrtan fuse block
Can a man ask for a CANBUS feature on what to know and how to set it up?
I’d like to get a screen, maybe some sensors, etc, and honestly not sure where to start.
For example, I’d like to add a wideband to my tune, but I don’t think you can now? I’d like to understand how to get various CAN devices communicating and logging.
Haltech has been extremely understanding with my amateur-hour questions, and I know HP University could take me through it.
Just curious if you could teach/show th topic in the way you do it.
What software are you planning on using? 👀
@@Smeedia well, see - I don’t know. I don’t have any problem with Cobb’s GreenSpeed for modding my daily, but the idea of a Haltech ECU with the Haltech IC7 is really appealing, but, again… trying to make sure I fully understand how best to take advantage of CANBUS and how to budget for maximizing options/sensors/features.
The AEM dash and feature set is really appealing, but I don’t believe there’s a Subaru-compatible ECU(?).
Lots to learn and want to make sure I’m not just following instructions, but understanding the underlying technology and how to properly deploy it for maximum utility.
Fresh outta prison of course had to watch my boy killing it as usual. Missed ya bro n watching vids
Dave what happened?! 😳
I made some very poor choices on how I can get more income if u know what I'm saying lol 💊💊⚖️
Hopefully all is well man and wishing you the best 🙏🙏
Another great video! I HATE the wiring in my car. I have a remote starter in it and it's fucking the car up, and the radio is all jacked up. I gotta get it all fixed
Jank wiring that goes everything is something that had always bothered the hell out of me 😤
@@Smeedia I don't even wanna fuck with I, I'm having someone that specializes in electrical handle it. It'll cost me like 200 dollars to fix everything and take out the subs and amps.
My boost gauge needle occasionally creeps up when I am not in boost. When I move the silicone tube connected to gauge the needle goes back down to zero. I assume the tube is clogged or has a leak correct? Should I just replace the tube ?
Yessir I would start with replacing it. They get old and brittle over time 🙏
Thanks bro, road straight to 100k and more my friend 🔥🔥📈
What radio tripple gauge pod did use and where did you get it from? Looks OEM
I once bought innovate gauges, oil pressure & temp, AFR & boost and only AFR worked.
They were brand new too. Weird.
I don't quite understand how they pass bad gauges before shipping out 😅
I'm pretty sure you were the one to do your wiring through the fender before i might be wrong
I've never ran wires through the door and into the fender. I've gone through the fender grommet before and stuck with an OE Harness
I felt so called out from my amplifier installs 15 years ago when he said "don't be the type of person that runs your wiring through the door..."
We need a step by step on the 08-14 STi/wrx!
Same same as this! 🥳 like exact same same lol
Not bad at all plus there's already plenty of videos for the 08-14 wrx/sti.
@@Smeedia Where do you prefer to install the oil pressure sensor on the 08-14? Have an Lgt that needs one asap.
Under thr alternator, if you want oil temp I normally do that one under the turbo on that galley 🙏
So, am fully new on working on cars. So I wonder how do I know with fuses I need to use for like the gauges?
A video I needed for my evo ! Also where did you get the triple gauge pod?
It came with the car but I've seen a few others like it on MAP and STM tuned 🙏
@@Smeedia thank you! 🤙
I just sold my STI and now looking at 09 Spec Bs, what's a good baseline price? Most I see are between 130k-150k miles. Worth $12k for 135k miles totally stock?
Honestly 12K ain't too bad for that one with 135K 👀
What gauge size should I use when I extend the wiring? 16 or 18?
Hey, I know you made a video on the DCCD already but, I'm about to STI trans swap my WRX and I neglected to buy a DCCD controller. Will I be okay to drive home (~80miles) from where I do the swap? Silly question but you seem really knowledgable on the subject
!!!!!WOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
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May I ask, as I am struggling to pass everything through my firewall grommet, which grommet are you passing everything through for your evo?? I hear the one under the glovebox is best.. but i dont know 😅
That's thr one I'm using, where thr stock harness passes through the firewall. I just cut a slit into the rubber boot to pass the wires through 🙏
This man, "It is easy."
Me, "Then do mine?"
Bring it over 👀
What wire size u use ? I mean I'm planning to this same job in. Jeep cj7 but I got the wrong size wire so pls any help I do have same gauges u got
Interesting….. 🧐 Why no oil temp gauge ?
Tbh, I don't know 😅 don't remember why I don't snag one lol
Bro I rebuilt my ej20 and I pulled it in December been waiting for the machine shop I almost have it together but I really need help with the evap vacuum lines and coolant lines and I can't find any how to vids or literature please help me
I have that gauge in my 93 honda integra and it works fine so it might just be the gauge itself honestly because I changed the sensor on my temp gauge and it still reads wrong so I'm sure if I get a new gauge it will work fine gauges come junk all the time once I bought a brand new tbi holley 670cfm for my 92z71 and out the box had a bad injector and they ate 137 for one😢😂 so yea products that ate bad get placed on the shelves and Noone knows it but the people who get screwed when they end up with that bad part that seems new
That brass oil pressure sensor will crap out on you due to vibrations etc.(ask me how I know) when it does it’ll scare the crap out of you cause the oil pressure will be at 0 on start up and gradually increase, when it happens replace it with a stainless steel sensor
I've destroyed a few of them already, I haven't had much luck with the AEM or Haltech sensors. Any suggestions on brands?
@@Smeedia lowdoller-motorsports…..yes just like that, a buddy of mine put me onto them and so far no issues, the best part: a fraction of the price of a haltech or AEM one
I sent you a message on IG, I took a picture of where I put my oil pressure sensor, best spot so far
What guage wire are equipped eith the guages?
how did u do the guage in cluster
Hi bro
Does every1 weld the wideband sensor bung 18 inches (45cm) after turbo?? For subaru
Seems less complicated than the Sti where you literally had every color of the 🌈 wires 😏😎
Lol I'd say so 😅
I hateee wires, mannn i cant find the Defis 52mm red racers, it seems theyre descontinued, im considering AEM for my AFR, What other alternate gauge brand to Defi?
Honestly I've only really used Defi or AEM, outside of those I couldn't tell ya 👀
@@Smeedia same here man, Prosport JDM looks good but theyre garbage as far of accuracy. I was checking this brand Revel VLS, They dont look bad, but dont know how good their performance is, got to dp some research.
RS232 is serial data, at least in the IT world.
I'm buying you 500 circuit fuse taps for Christmas..
Vampire clips?! 😤
Crimped connections will break long before a soldered one does. If soldered correctly it'll last the life of the car.
18! :P Let us Love the SMEEDIAAAAA! Awesome cluster!! ...aaaand LET'S BURN SOME SHIT!!! AhahAHAAAA!
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Today's word of the day: Gauges 😄
just curious where did you get this gauge pod becaise i can not find one that is similar to the one you have that fits the X series directly
It came with the car when I bought it but STM tuned has some that are similar 🙏
@@Smeedia i did try the Autometer one but i think the one you have is from JDcustoms the ortiz custom pod. It looks alot similar to it. Very clean set up going to be doing my gauges today following your video my man. I apprecitae the content you put out it helps alot
I find it hilarious how you own the two rivals lol 😂 Subaru and Mitsubishi.
I can’t judge though cause I to own rivals ford and GM lol 😂
It seems like AEM gauges are shit. Correct me if I’m wrong but spending $200 plus on gauges should come with acknowledgment that they work. Yet I’ve seen multiple videos of them not working. Do they not test them before the hit the product line?
They slap a QC sticker on the gauge but I don't think they actually test them 😮💨
I did a cobb redline air intake and grimmspeed tmic and a cobb accessport also a lot more bolt on..but now sometimes at idle I get a p0068 code MAP/MAF- Throttle position correlation any advice on how to fix this??
Did you tune thr car after installing? 👀
@@Smeedia did not..I only downloaded a map off Cobbs website
I used to love telling customers to destroy the defective parts. They were like "really?" Yeah man have at it, hit it with a sledge Idgaf, just show me it broken & fucked up so no one can use it. We don't wanna calltag it and it ain't worth getting back here to then send back to mfgr. Just break it dude.
Lol makes it a bit more fun on thr consumer side when you get to destroy them too 🤣
awesome video but the blowtorch next to the pb blaster had me holding my breath
*torches a gauge*
*gets surprised when it catches on fire*
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