Custom Catch Can DIY Install | Audi S4 B7 B6| JHM Intake Spacers
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- I break down the 4.2L V8 PCV system before walking through how to install the @RadiumEngineering Competition catch can, 10AN fittings and petcock drain kit. Then, I compare JHM's port matched vs straight through intake manifold spacers.
My Radium Engineering kit comprises of:
(1) 20-0072 Competition Catch Can Short Version without Extension with Petcock drain kit
(1) 20-1000-1012 10AN ORB Banjo Swivel to 12AN Male
(1) 20-1000-1010 10AN ORB Swivel Banjo to 10AN Male
(1) 14-0261 PushLok Hose End, 12AN, Straight
(1) 14-0211 PushLok Hose End, 10AN, Straight
(4') 5/8" PCV/Fuel Hose, 10AN
(4') 3/4" PCV/Fuel Hose, 12AN
Featured products, shop equipment and project materials:
Liquid Electrical Tape - geni.us/liquid-tape
Chapters
00:00 - PCV talk
09:36 - Radium parts overview
15:56 - Catch can installation
19:22 - JHM intake spacers
21:53 - Final catch can install review
24:22 - Bonus 
Авто/Мото
Yea those banjo bolts are sweet! Looking good.
One thing I didn't mention that I noticed during install is that the Radium FKM/Viton o-rings are a super specific size. They look like 3/4" but they're just slightly smaller. I know because I swapped o-rings to another Viton set I had while I was testing something, and the banjos could not properly seat into the catch can ports. All this to say, I should have ordered a pack of replacement o-rings for the can and fittings for future use.
Advised check crankcase pressure before and ensure catchcan not increasing pressure as happens with these similar cylinder catch cans, or valve seals will get brunt of back pressure.
I have been waiting for this update. You teased about it when I asked you about draining solution.
I like it. I like the look and I like the fact that I can drain it without tools. The dipstick is a good feature too.
Although, I think I can live with hose clamps. The engine bay is already full of them. That's not to say I don't like the clean look.
great video!
I need this doing carbon cleaning now
Can you tell, you are an Engineer by trade? lol Very thorough, Sir.. Quite a joyful video...
I wish I had education in something like mechanical engineering, but I am but a corporate grunt that likes to learn about car stuff for fun.
more parts...pun intended!
Great video! Where did you find the plastic hardware to secure the air filter housing to the engine bay? Mine has the same issue.
That would be part # 8E0129557A and I happened to get it from @ecstuning with a batch of other harder to find items. I'd like to think the dealer has ready access to one of these as well since they came on so many cars. The key to not destroying these rivets is to use the two holes on the inside of the clip when installed (engine bay side) to put 2 skinny objects in to depress the rivet tabs while pulling it out. Otherwise, they just keep breaking when pulled out.
@@FigureItAudi rad! Thanks man! Yes exactly, I broke mine while removing it :(
How much u charge to fix the timing chain?? I have number 43
Hey I really like those 10an banjo swivel fittings but I’m concerned they are restrictive and don’t flow as well if compared to a regular 90 degree an elbow ?
Like did you look thru the banjo to see if it’s a straight thru hole or is it just like a traditional banjo bolt with the usual to small holes surrounded the bolt ?
You're half right, I think. No, the entire ID is consistent to whatever -AN size the fitting is meant to be but the interior angle *might* be sharper than a larger, "normal" 90 degree fitting. Maybe in another scenario with higher pressure and certain fluids involved might I second guess the efficiency of the these banjos - but definitely not in this application.
@@FigureItAudi awesome !! Ya I have a better idea of what type of connection is being used. It’s like my air compressor guns swivel fittings.
Great build out! I'm slowly going through rebuilding my 2005 S4 and wish I could get mine as clean as you have yours!
Question: Are intake manifold spacers legal for street use in Canada? I took a look at the site and they have a big check off before you can buy:
"Race Use Only Disclaimer
I understand that this product is sold for racing or off road use only. I further understand it is illegal to use this product on emissions controlled vehicles or any vehicle registered for public street or highway use."
Hey Russ, that's more or less a standard disclaimer for all would-be purchasers that live somewhere where emissions testing is a requirement and if a product *might* affect those results. Realistically, I doubt the spacers would change anything at all. In terms of legality, I'd be surprised if any governing body had the wherewithal to know what intake spacers are and could do the math on how they may change the way a car runs, enough to call it out in legislation. I wouldn't let it hold it you back, if that's what you're thinking.
Thanks for expanding on the logic of that! I also can't imagine it makes a difference.
I am guessing you installed the Intake spacers before you bought the tune kit for your car? How did it run? I am thinking of purchasing the spacers and installing them as I will be taking the intake off of the car to fix the Oil leak on the fill port. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
That was the order of events, yes. It ran fine; the spacers won't provide a noticeable change in literally anything except for intake manifold temperature, which is the whole point of that product. That said, our cars don't have an IAT sensor for the manifold so unless you carefully test the before and after with an IR gun, it's hard to say how large the benefit really is. The added runner length is good for like 1-2HP, according to JHM. I'm anti-heat everything, so I like it.
@@FigureItAudi Ok I appreciate the response and the insight!
Oooh man
I just realised I messed up
I out a can in my 3.2 , but I didn't know about that sneaky 3rd pipe in the valley .. so I've got the two tip pipes heading to my can and back to that top (former T peice)
No wonder I'm not getting oil in my can..what dramas have I created here?? I can barely get my brain around it.. am I damaging the motor? Or is it immaterial?
I can't totally picture what you're describing but I can say yes, it is important to make sure both the heads and the crankcase have a way to vent. If you have blocked the crankcase/valley hose (or is it just open right now?), then it's building pressure that will force air and oil out of seals and provide resistance back on the pistons. I'd take it apart, get all hoses merged and heading into the can, and the can venting back to the intake manifold or to atmosphere as soon as you can.
When you remove the Intake Manifold are you depressurizing the fuel rail before hand? if so how
Yeah I typically run the lines dry before a number of tasks and especially if I'll be working on the fuel. There's a 20A fuel pump fuse in the interior drivers fuse panel that you can just pop out. Start the car, let it die, done.
Looks great!
Want to sell the set of spacers your not using?
were did you get your set from?
Yeah, I prob would sell them, despite my urge to put them in the stash. Hit me up on IG. I got them by chance when I was buying a bunch of stuff from a local S4 owner who was unloading his part collection.
And actually, I also have another set of the tapered available through another owner nearby. Anyone reading this looking for either style of spacers, message me on IG.
@@FigureItAudi I don't use IG, you can see my wanted add on audizine though!