How to Use False Colors | Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera
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- Опубликовано: 19 сен 2024
- As much as I love light meters, sometimes false colors is just easier. For example, when you're outside and an analog light meter's high card readings are just difficult to decipher.
The Blackmagic Pocket Cinema cameras have an excellent false colors implementation. In this lesson I go over what false colors are for, and how you can use them with a middle gray card to dial in your exposure.
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Thank you for making so many useful Videos on the different aspects of filmmaking. You helped me learn a lot and handle my BMPCC better :)
That's the coolest thing I could hear! So glad this helped in some way. Thank you.
Dang I was hoping for more examples of false colors being used. Good info but it ended up being a commercial for a light meter lol
Hahaha. I hadn’t thought of it that way, but it’s probably true because that’s how I think. I’m a light meter freak. Just remember at least on some cameras you can go above the green on middle grays. Blackmagic design cameras specifically allow you to “expose to the right” and bring that down in post without any information loss.
Can you please make detailed video on light meter, and how to correctly use it on set!! Thanks
ruclips.net/video/uYK6Lyh34vI/видео.htmlsi=DQKpVeq26YfTzV5J
Good video but how do you use a light meter and which one is a good one. I’ve seen some that are very expensive
Check out my video on using one of the Seminic analog light meters. I def use a light meter more than false colors.
Nice tips, I am thinking about getting a light meter but how does it work with cameras with dual ISO:s, like BMPCC…?
That's a great question, as normally when I'm using the second ISO bank I'm using false colors to dial it in for whatever reason. Will test this tomorrow if possible. I'm 99.9% sure it will work fine as you tell a light meter what your ISO is, and everything is built on that (see this lesson for details on that: ruclips.net/video/4hMc2nNz054/видео.html). So as long as Blackmagic cameras aren't straying from exposure with the second ISO, all should work fine. But again, I just want to see it happen to be sure. Will report back!
@@writedirect Thanks a lot, I am looking forward to hear about your findings, that might be what triggers me to get a light meter…
@@micken6887 okay, the test was accurate. I started at ISO 400, set my F-STOP based on the light meter and then checked false colors. Gray card was green. Changed ISO to 3200. Set this on the light meter, adjusted F-STOP (went from 4 to just over 11). Gray card was green. Now...it wasn't "as green" but it was green. I had to close down a touch more to make it exactly like the ISO 400 setup. But it was really close.
What would be your go to way if you are working on a fast paced gig? Do you reply on histogram or similar? Coming from large format photography I like and use light meter but will be good to know a faster-ball-park way to get all the info. eg. On my digital MF camera I normally settle of ETTR
@@Prashant.Khapane I'd use false colors. They're really good on the Pocket cameras. And you can always expose to the right a touch and dial that back in in post without clipping - if you're shooting BRAW. But experiment with a gray card and get used to what is your "middle gray" in nature, with skin tones, etc.
Not sure if you mentioned it anywhere? But what is that brand light meter you are using? Thank you !
It's a Sekonic Studio Deluxe III L-398A.
ettr only really works in raw, in log you're compressing the highlights, it won't improve noise
Thanks! I don’t ever see a reason to not shoot in BRAW. Removing ProRes from the new Cinema 6K is such a good thing!
Thank you. I really appreciate it. What camera did you use to record this video, if I might ask?
Thx! I recorded on the pocket 4K. I had two of them when I did this. Now shooting on the BMD cinema camera 6K but still a huge fan of the pocket 4K.
@writedirect That's awesome, I have the pocket 4k and can't get this sharp clean video.
@@zakmukhtar8672 maybe it’s your lens? I never have problems with sharp and clean on the pocket 4K. Unless of course there’s exposure issues or issues. Set your focus assist to as low as possible, but still seeing red. If you have it high with a lot of red, you might think it’s in focus when it’s not.
@writedirect I am using a sigma 18-35 mm with an mft adapter.
@@zakmukhtar8672 that might be part of it. I don’t know for sure. I don’t use Sigma, zoom or adapters. Use primes from Meike and Sirui. Sirui for narrative (anamorphic).
Hi. I have a job as gaffer in a couple days. I have a light meter. Is there a good tutorial out there on how to USE a light meter. Right now, I don't get it.
Hey man! Cool on the gig. I did one using a Sekonic analog. That might help: ruclips.net/video/uYK6Lyh34vI/видео.htmlsi=zH3hb5G9SlWvjvAy
Thanks. I have a Minolta digital. You said point to the lens. Should I not point to the light?
@@haroldmorganTulsa I place the light meter where my subject will be and point towards camera and then take the reading. You don't want to point to the light, that will be off. You can verify your results when in doubt with a middle gray card. Now...I say that for getting camera exposure dialed in only. I'm not a gaffer...they may do other things with light meters that I do not.
Okay. So how would the spot meter be different in that scenario? The incident meter measures light falling on the subject while the spot meter measures refection bouncing off the subject. Or am I getting that wrong?
@@haroldmorganTulsa you've got it!