Look again. The fuse you pulled is actually F49 which is for the left power sliding door module. F48 is not populated just like the lid says. F27 is for the right power sliding door module. Good work finding the problem nonetheless. 🙂
Thanks for this. Had 3 major issues with this model before getting this now. The comfort for road trips is great, but the reliability has been horrible. The transmission shutoff on the freeway at night was downright scary. Glad to get these tips from RUclips community.
This is absolutely the fix and cause of this issue. Just found my van doing the same thing. Removed the fuse and it stopped. Keep in mind that the corrosion can be anywhere in the wiring harness that runs all the way into the engine bay. I feel like fixing the exact cause is going to be a real pain. Thank you for sharing your information on this though, saved my battery.
Update, apparently my car does have that issue! I went out there after watching this video and tried it and sure enough, it was happening. Also, it seems that I may have a star connector problem, which may be the reason why all my other issues are happening.
Exact same issue, didn't realize it till this video. Battery kept dying overnight randomly. Sat in the car after turning it off, and ya the dash keeps lighting on and off. We ended up pulling 4 fuses before it stopped doing the light show, all combinations less than all 4 didn't work: F27 RR SLIDE DOOR MOD RT F49 RR SLIDE DOOR MOD LT F34 RR DOOR MOD LT F50 RR DOOR MOD RT As expected, power slide and windows don't work now, but power lock still works. Will report back if no drain in a week. The dash lights def aren't coming back on after turning car off at least.
We've had the 4 fuses out for a month and it def fixed the battery drain problem. Taking the car in today with this info, hoping they won't just replace the battery again hahaa!
So what was your bottom line on that? Hopefully you're not driving around with four missing fuses. Were you able to at least find the one and put the three fuses back in ?
Ooooh gosh it was an adventure. They ended up replacing a component in the door, I think it was the whole locking mechanism, they finally saw an error code on it. Then 6 months later the door locked shut and wouldn't open, neither manually or any other way, pulling fuses didn't help, so they ended up replacing the lock AGAIN. So far so good, been a few months since that no issues, and the new lock did solve the door opening on its own thing too. What an obnoxious journey tho.
didn't fix the issue but my van is doing the same exact thing as you explained and as every other blog thread on the internet that everybody has explained about this specific issue in the Pacifica van. this is ridiculous and should be fixe and Chryslers main priority to fix and everybody should be boycotting this van till its fixed. but it is a great van besides this problem that has persisted for over 5 years of the Pacifica model.
@@SparksNWreckreationya I do understand that and did take that into consideration. question the power wires that go to the positive terminal on the battery could any of those possibly be the culprit to causing the van to wake up you think? there are also a few searches results I came across, well one that the owner updated the dealership replaced the security gateway module and that it fixed her intermittent cluster power problem. but I don't know how to work on all the computer type issues on these new vehicles let alone own an expensive scan tool nor have authorization like dealerships have to be able to do some of the things that need that sort of clearance I guess you could refer to it as.
I have the battery drainage issue, but sat in the van for 10mins but no solenoids moved or lights. But we have had an issue where the van would alarm when opening the passenger slider door, even with the keyfob in hand. I'm still going to check those wiring harnesses on the sliding doors for any type of damage. Thanks for sharing this video.
I’m trying this today. We have been going round and round with this issue. Replaced the aux battery in fall. And now I’m still having a dead battery intermittently. Fingers crossed!! I have been stressing about it since my kids drive it now too.
I'm having this same problem as we speak and have the van on a trickle charger to get it to start. om going to try this right now and see if that is what is going on with mine. i did start to install an aftermarket amp in my van when this started but i only just started meaning I added my cable from the battery to the inline fuse and that was it because finding and securing the fuse somewhere took longer than I thought it would take for how I did it to look as clean as possible without drilling holes in anything to secure the fuse. I'm going to check this fuse and wire thing out. I live in Las Vegas which we have weather that can do interesting things to cars. thank you for the video hopefully you just helped me out with my van issue.
This issue was pissing me off. I was determined to make it stop. To make it stop, make sure your dimmer wheels are shut all the way down while your park or headlights are ON.(not in auto mode). Make sure your parking brake is on. Then shut the headlights off. I get one dashlight return a couple minutes later(I should time it...5 mins??) and then they stay off the rest of the night. I can probably cut that return light in settings . I haven't tried yet But, I know it works. I sleep in it. Thanks for the door fuse. Since it becomes manual, I'm guessing it's cool to leave the slider open without draining the battery???? I would enjoy that while camping. Please let me know how to do that ✌️❤️ ~ 🦋
Having the same issue and am going to try your test to confirm if it's one of the sliding doors. I'll respond back to confirm so others can have multiple points of proof. Thanks for the video!
13 days later... Was it at least the cause of your parasitic draw? The fact that it's related to a "presence" issue is going to make this a PITA to diagnose. I hope I get lucky and it's the door.
I did not have this same issue, as it turns out. It seems my issue is a parasitic draw related to a broken air flow actuator behind the glove box that was continually attempting to open and close. I’ve replaced that actuator and am crossing my fingers that nothing else is sucking power while the vehicle is off. Time will tell, I suppose.
@@markpate9797did this fix your issue? I replaced my battery today, but also have been putting off replacing faulty air flow actuator. I didn’t think about it draining the battery by cycling.
Wow, if true, you have saved a lot of us dealing with this issue for years now! Do you have a follow up video on the damage to the chain link cable? Thank you for this video.
Unfortunately I just repaired and put back together, didn't make a video. One of the wires was broke from the insulation being cracked and green corrosion. I just spliced and put back together. This may not he your exact issue, the phenomenon of the ignition triggering can be from many different power draws. I just was showing the process of how I deduced the issue to set system and figured out the problem.
@@SparksNWreckreation I see.. so the parasitic draw may be created somewhere else by a short in another system.. Still, it's a big start to know where to look.. my sliding doors stopped working after my AUX battery went bad, then my main batter went bad also. I removed both and installed a bigger H7 battery by itself and everything is back to normal again. Not sure if the issue may come back again if the van seats for a few days, will have to check that.
@Mike_44 exactly, it does seem to be very common in the doors as that is a obvious wear and tear placement and where road salt can catch in the rust belt. Try pulling the door fuse and sew if it's the problem, if not unfortunately you will have to use a meter or do what I did in a pinch and just yank fuses till it stops cycling the interior ignition to prep for a start procedure.
@@SparksNWreckreation Good process of elimination. Yank the fuses till the flickering/weird noises/solenoids that are left activated stop, to pin point the system/components that are triggering the issue.. 👍🏻
The actual fuse slot for the drivers side sliding door is F49. F48 is an unpopulated slot which means it only has one conductive pin which means inserting a fuse will not complete any circuit because the F 48 slot is for an accessory or feature the car doesn’t have.
For the record I am done with Chrysler, Cadillac, and Dodge. They all had issues that were electrical and caused me to night have a running vehicle. Growing up they talked about Ford/Lincoln bad but we were never stranded until it was over 10 years old.
I have fixed two battery drain issues with my 2018 pacifica. First one was a celenoid under passenger dashboard. An AC vent would try to reset to a default position but would not make it. You could hear this clicking noise after the car was turned off. The dealership replaced the celenoid and fixed that issue. The second issue was the aux battery for stop and start was going bad and draining the main battery. I disconnected the red teriminal from the aux battery and that problem went away. I do have a dash indicator I ignore and the car drives better not turning off when I stop.
On the second issue how is it holding up? I believe the soul purpose of the aux battery is to do the stop start. So main battery does its thing with no other loss of functions?
I have the 18 also in the clicking noise is right behind the glove box passenger side door flap actuator I actually have to replace mine now. It continues to run with the car off sometimes. It's no fun looking at check engine lights hook your aux battery bac kup and for $99 go online and get the auto stop Eliminator you only have to press the button once an auto stop start is completely disabled I've had it in 4 years I've never touched the button once
My 2018 Pacifica had a dead battery after sitting overnight. I charged the battery up and the van started right up. I sat with the van watching this whole video and mine never made a peep. I know my start/stop system has been disabled due to the aux battery being bad, just haven't replaced it yet. I'm thining that's what strained/ drained the main battery.
So, after I took my van to the dealership that installed the batteries. Turns out my aux battery was bad. They replaced it for free under warranty and said my main battery was good. I'm thinking that the aux battery being bad drains the main battery. It happed once before when the van was 2yrs old. Hope this post helps folks out as well
Interesting video. We have a 2018 Chrysler Pacifica (purchased new). Within the first 30 days we had to have the van towed from our home to the dealership. Van would not start, no lights, accessories, key fob didn’t even work. They claimed it was battery related and did a ton of system reprogramming. Van ran fine until last year and we started having the aux battery problem related to the start stop feature. Replaced the aux and main battery. Nearly a year to the date.., BAM.., aux battery failure again. On the 4th of July our van completely shut down at an intersection. Lights on the shifter wouldn’t come on. When we finally got it to start, shifter lights were still off. Drove fine and after we got to our destination I let it sit for 30 minutes. Started the van, shifter lights finally back on, but exact same yellow warning light and message for start stop malfunction we got last summer. We did some research, and there are people reporting to have replaced their aux batteries three years in a row. That aux battery problem also draws and drains the main battery when the van is parked. We’re done with Dodge/Chrysler. Had a town and Country and Caravan before the Pacifica, and they had issues too. We’re trading it for a Honda Odyssey.
@@seatime674 I think it’s a combination of bad grounding issues and engine software management. I found that well over 90% of Pacifica’s taken in for our issue was misidentified as a problem with the electronic shift knob. Chrysler was just basically blanket diagnosing them all with shifter failure, which it isn’t. Guy at the dealership was blowing the same smoke saying it’s the shifter. Most people just end up trading them in now once the warranty is out. We’re just going to wait until a major issue arrises (not worth fixing) and then just dump the van on a trade in.
@@squeakD There's also the negative battery cable that goes to the ground underneath the engine that tends to get loose and corroded that should be tightened and cleaned on every unit..
@@squeakD Pacifica is a much thicker quality, better looking and more comfortable van than odyssey, you'll run from Chrysler right into another problem with Honda nothings perfect
FYI, the fuse is a quick fix, but locating the corrosion and fixing it is the solution. Mine was caused by a corroded bulb socket in my front passenger side marker light. Replaced the socket and several of the van's electrical issues just went away.
Thanks exclamation, markours will drain the battery at random. Usually when it's colderwhich makes sense. Because I have walked past it and see the display lit up like someone has a key fob nearby. We also found that the sliding doors and we're hatched. Stop working along with the remote start, Until you manually start the vehicle turn it off and everything is restored, Lately , the fault has been going as far as the adaptive cruise regular crews and collisionsensingall go wonky until you restartthen you're fine.
Im curious to see if im dealing with the same issue, rh door pops when opening, its the pivot at the end of the cable tray, started about the same time as the random drain started... Thinking it being bound up stressed and broke something in that area 😬 pulled F27 RH slide door module 🤞
First time I have ever in my life bought a brand new vehicle 2020 Pacifica and here we are… 🤦♀️ replaced the battery and two days later dead again. Will report back when I get a chance to check it.
Good stuff. You mind going over your maintenance intervals since yours has over 100K miles. I ask because I just bought a 2023 with 6K miles on it and then went to the Pacifica forum and several have had leaky head gaskets, cracked blocks, and have had engine replaced. I assume the Pentastar V6 was a well proven design.
@SparksNWreckreation I have a 2020 Pacifica when testing for a draw I attach the multimeter with the negative cable disconnected it shows 5.43 after a few seconds it goes down to 2.03. I can't tell if I have a draw or not.
Do you leave your keys in the car overnight? I'm wondering if this issue would go away if the Key FOB was not inside, because then it might trigger an open door scenario, but would not initiate the ready/start sequence. Could the parasitic draw issue be avoided by not leaving the keys inside the vehicle?
This is what happens when you make something powered when it never should be, ontop of keyless igntions where there is no physical switch off of power like keyed ignition switches do.
Wait so i have to remove the fuse permanently? I have to choose between a functioning electronic door and a functioning battery that keeps its charge? Is that right (if this indeed is the problem I'm dealing with)?
Unfortunately you will probably have to do what I did and over the course of an hour or two unplug every fuse 1 at a time until you isolate the problem
@alejorxdan In this specific video I am showing a problem where once the key is out of the vehicle and you have walked away. About 30 seconds later the dash lights pop on and stay on for a min or two and then eventually shuts off. This cycle occurs for hours every few minutes until the battery is dead. You pull a fuse one at a time checking to see if it stops that from happening. If your van is killing the battery but it is not from the dash staying lit on and off you likely have a completely different issue.
My cousin vehicle did have that fuse installed at all,his radio and dash lights stay on. I removed his fuse for the uconnect for three minutes and reinstalled the fuse and everything is normal for now but I told him to leave it for one night and don't use the radio f or now
If it's cycling the dash lights, there is a circuit pulling power and triggering the car to cycle as if you just got in to start it. You will need to use a meter to check for draw on each fuse, or if you don't have the proper tools. You can do what I did and pull each fuse 1 at a time until it stops cycling. Then look up which systems that fuse controls, then look for breaks, corrosion, etc.
This needs as follow up video on how to replace that door cable!
Look again. The fuse you pulled is actually F49 which is for the left power sliding door module. F48 is not populated just like the lid says. F27 is for the right power sliding door module. Good work finding the problem nonetheless. 🙂
Thanks for this. Had 3 major issues with this model before getting this now. The comfort for road trips is great, but the reliability has been horrible. The transmission shutoff on the freeway at night was downright scary. Glad to get these tips from RUclips community.
This is absolutely the fix and cause of this issue. Just found my van doing the same thing. Removed the fuse and it stopped. Keep in mind that the corrosion can be anywhere in the wiring harness that runs all the way into the engine bay. I feel like fixing the exact cause is going to be a real pain. Thank you for sharing your information on this though, saved my battery.
I came here for a different issue, but I'm REALLY glad I stayed to watch the whole video! Thank you!!
Update, apparently my car does have that issue! I went out there after watching this video and tried it and sure enough, it was happening. Also, it seems that I may have a star connector problem, which may be the reason why all my other issues are happening.
My battery just started dying overnight. I'll start troubleshooting soon. Thanks to the OP and video and to all the responses.
NICE find. Having this exact issue with my 2023. Gonna check it tomorrow.
Read Ukulele Butterfly comment.
It works.
Exact same issue, didn't realize it till this video. Battery kept dying overnight randomly. Sat in the car after turning it off, and ya the dash keeps lighting on and off.
We ended up pulling 4 fuses before it stopped doing the light show, all combinations less than all 4 didn't work:
F27 RR SLIDE DOOR MOD RT
F49 RR SLIDE DOOR MOD LT
F34 RR DOOR MOD LT
F50 RR DOOR MOD RT
As expected, power slide and windows don't work now, but power lock still works. Will report back if no drain in a week. The dash lights def aren't coming back on after turning car off at least.
Hopefully my video helped a little! Likely a broken/bad wire somewhere in those systems.
Fingers crossed no dead battery
We've had the 4 fuses out for a month and it def fixed the battery drain problem. Taking the car in today with this info, hoping they won't just replace the battery again hahaa!
So what was your bottom line on that? Hopefully you're not driving around with four missing fuses. Were you able to at least find the one and put the three fuses back in ?
Ooooh gosh it was an adventure. They ended up replacing a component in the door, I think it was the whole locking mechanism, they finally saw an error code on it. Then 6 months later the door locked shut and wouldn't open, neither manually or any other way, pulling fuses didn't help, so they ended up replacing the lock AGAIN. So far so good, been a few months since that no issues, and the new lock did solve the door opening on its own thing too. What an obnoxious journey tho.
@@parakyl1771 Yeah the doors on these things seem to take on a mind of their own and some might even say they are possessed.
didn't fix the issue but my van is doing the same exact thing as you explained and as every other blog thread on the internet that everybody has explained about this specific issue in the Pacifica van. this is ridiculous and should be fixe and Chryslers main priority to fix and everybody should be boycotting this van till its fixed. but it is a great van besides this problem that has persisted for over 5 years of the Pacifica model.
If the interior dash is coming on and cycling like this you still have a fault somewhere. It may just be a different circuit.
@@SparksNWreckreationya I do understand that and did take that into consideration. question the power wires that go to the positive terminal on the battery could any of those possibly be the culprit to causing the van to wake up you think? there are also a few searches results I came across, well one that the owner updated the dealership replaced the security gateway module and that it fixed her intermittent cluster power problem. but I don't know how to work on all the computer type issues on these new vehicles let alone own an expensive scan tool nor have authorization like dealerships have to be able to do some of the things that need that sort of clearance I guess you could refer to it as.
I have the battery drainage issue, but sat in the van for 10mins but no solenoids moved or lights. But we have had an issue where the van would alarm when opening the passenger slider door, even with the keyfob in hand. I'm still going to check those wiring harnesses on the sliding doors for any type of damage. Thanks for sharing this video.
This might help me today
Thank you for this video
I’m trying this today. We have been going round and round with this issue. Replaced the aux battery in fall. And now I’m still having a dead battery intermittently. Fingers crossed!! I have been stressing about it since my kids drive it now too.
Was pulling the fuse your fix?
I'm having this same problem as we speak and have the van on a trickle charger to get it to start. om going to try this right now and see if that is what is going on with mine. i did start to install an aftermarket amp in my van when this started but i only just started meaning I added my cable from the battery to the inline fuse and that was it because finding and securing the fuse somewhere took longer than I thought it would take for how I did it to look as clean as possible without drilling holes in anything to secure the fuse. I'm going to check this fuse and wire thing out. I live in Las Vegas which we have weather that can do interesting things to cars. thank you for the video hopefully you just helped me out with my van issue.
Was this issue your problem ?
This issue was pissing me off. I was determined to make it stop.
To make it stop, make sure your dimmer wheels are shut all the way down while your park or headlights are ON.(not in auto mode). Make sure your parking brake is on. Then shut the headlights off. I get one dashlight return a couple minutes later(I should time it...5 mins??) and then they stay off the rest of the night. I can probably cut that return light in settings . I haven't tried yet But, I know it works. I sleep in it.
Thanks for the door fuse. Since it becomes manual, I'm guessing it's cool to leave the slider open without draining the battery????
I would enjoy that while camping. Please let me know how to do that ✌️❤️
~ 🦋
Having the same issue and am going to try your test to confirm if it's one of the sliding doors. I'll respond back to confirm so others can have multiple points of proof. Thanks for the video!
Hope it works!
13 days later... Was it at least the cause of your parasitic draw?
The fact that it's related to a "presence" issue is going to make this a PITA to diagnose. I hope I get lucky and it's the door.
I did not have this same issue, as it turns out. It seems my issue is a parasitic draw related to a broken air flow actuator behind the glove box that was continually attempting to open and close. I’ve replaced that actuator and am crossing my fingers that nothing else is sucking power while the vehicle is off. Time will tell, I suppose.
@@markpate9797did this fix your issue? I replaced my battery today, but also have been putting off replacing faulty air flow actuator. I didn’t think about it draining the battery by cycling.
@tannergreenwell2223 Yes, it did fix my issue! After replacing the actuator I haven’t had the battery drain problem.
Great explanation and analysis, thank you so much.
Wow, if true, you have saved a lot of us dealing with this issue for years now! Do you have a follow up video on the damage to the chain link cable? Thank you for this video.
Unfortunately I just repaired and put back together, didn't make a video. One of the wires was broke from the insulation being cracked and green corrosion.
I just spliced and put back together.
This may not he your exact issue, the phenomenon of the ignition triggering can be from many different power draws. I just was showing the process of how I deduced the issue to set system and figured out the problem.
@@SparksNWreckreation I see.. so the parasitic draw may be created somewhere else by a short in another system.. Still, it's a big start to know where to look.. my sliding doors stopped working after my AUX battery went bad, then my main batter went bad also. I removed both and installed a bigger H7 battery by itself and everything is back to normal again. Not sure if the issue may come back again if the van seats for a few days, will have to check that.
@Mike_44 exactly, it does seem to be very common in the doors as that is a obvious wear and tear placement and where road salt can catch in the rust belt.
Try pulling the door fuse and sew if it's the problem, if not unfortunately you will have to use a meter or do what I did in a pinch and just yank fuses till it stops cycling the interior ignition to prep for a start procedure.
@@SparksNWreckreation Good process of elimination. Yank the fuses till the flickering/weird noises/solenoids that are left activated stop, to pin point the system/components that are triggering the issue.. 👍🏻
The actual fuse slot for the drivers side sliding door is F49. F48 is an unpopulated slot which means it only has one conductive pin which means inserting a fuse will not complete any circuit because the F 48 slot is for an accessory or feature the car doesn’t have.
It had two pins and stopped the power to it.
Then it wouldn’t have stopped the power to the door, lol it obviously goes to something like the motor to the door
For the record I am done with Chrysler, Cadillac, and Dodge.
They all had issues that were electrical and caused me to night have a running vehicle. Growing up they talked about Ford/Lincoln bad but we were never stranded until it was over 10 years old.
Every maker has issues.
I have fixed two battery drain issues with my 2018 pacifica. First one was a celenoid under passenger dashboard. An AC vent would try to reset to a default position but would not make it. You could hear this clicking noise after the car was turned off. The dealership replaced the celenoid and fixed that issue.
The second issue was the aux battery for stop and start was going bad and draining the main battery. I disconnected the red teriminal from the aux battery and that problem went away. I do have a dash indicator I ignore and the car drives better not turning off when I stop.
On the second issue how is it holding up? I believe the soul purpose of the aux battery is to do the stop start. So main battery does its thing with no other loss of functions?
I have the 18 also in the clicking noise is right behind the glove box passenger side door flap actuator I actually have to replace mine now. It continues to run with the car off sometimes. It's no fun looking at check engine lights hook your aux battery bac kup and for $99 go online and get the auto stop Eliminator you only have to press the button once an auto stop start is completely disabled I've had it in 4 years I've never touched the button once
Trying this tonight if it works I owe you my life!
2017 Chrysler Pacifica
@alejorxdan so did it work 4u?
?????
I guess it didn't work.
My 2018 Pacifica had a dead battery after sitting overnight. I charged the battery up and the van started right up. I sat with the van watching this whole video and mine never made a peep. I know my start/stop system has been disabled due to the aux battery being bad, just haven't replaced it yet. I'm thining that's what strained/ drained the main battery.
Love the channel name ! EPIC 👍
So, after I took my van to the dealership that installed the batteries. Turns out my aux battery was bad. They replaced it for free under warranty and said my main battery was good. I'm thinking that the aux battery being bad drains the main battery. It happed once before when the van was 2yrs old. Hope this post helps folks out as well
Good investigation. thanks
Interesting video. We have a 2018 Chrysler Pacifica (purchased new). Within the first 30 days we had to have the van towed from our home to the dealership. Van would not start, no lights, accessories, key fob didn’t even work. They claimed it was battery related and did a ton of system reprogramming. Van ran fine until last year and we started having the aux battery problem related to the start stop feature. Replaced the aux and main battery. Nearly a year to the date.., BAM.., aux battery failure again. On the 4th of July our van completely shut down at an intersection. Lights on the shifter wouldn’t come on. When we finally got it to start, shifter lights were still off. Drove fine and after we got to our destination I let it sit for 30 minutes. Started the van, shifter lights finally back on, but exact same yellow warning light and message for start stop malfunction we got last summer. We did some research, and there are people reporting to have replaced their aux batteries three years in a row. That aux battery problem also draws and drains the main battery when the van is parked. We’re done with Dodge/Chrysler. Had a town and Country and Caravan before the Pacifica, and they had issues too. We’re trading it for a Honda Odyssey.
Did you figure out what your problem was?
@@seatime674 I think it’s a combination of bad grounding issues and engine software management. I found that well over 90% of Pacifica’s taken in for our issue was misidentified as a problem with the electronic shift knob. Chrysler was just basically blanket diagnosing them all with shifter failure, which it isn’t. Guy at the dealership was blowing the same smoke saying it’s the shifter. Most people just end up trading them in now once the warranty is out. We’re just going to wait until a major issue arrises (not worth fixing) and then just dump the van on a trade in.
I have a feeling that issue will show its face soon, and then it’s off to trade for a Honda Odyssey.
@@squeakD There's also the negative battery cable that goes to the ground underneath the engine that tends to get loose and corroded that should be tightened and cleaned on every unit..
@@squeakD Pacifica is a much thicker quality, better looking and more comfortable van than odyssey, you'll run from Chrysler right into another problem with Honda nothings perfect
Sweet! Replaced the battery and no help. Diagnosis is important
Thanks hopefully I can find this on my friends van he has an issue
GOD BLESS YOU SIR.
Hopefully the video helped. Thank you
FYI, the fuse is a quick fix, but locating the corrosion and fixing it is the solution. Mine was caused by a corroded bulb socket in my front passenger side marker light. Replaced the socket and several of the van's electrical issues just went away.
What made you start checking all the bulb sockets? Was one out?
@seatime674 yup, front passenger side marker was burnt out so I replaced the entire assembly. Everything has been working fine since.
Thanks exclamation, markours will drain the battery at random. Usually when it's colderwhich makes sense. Because I have walked past it and see the display lit up like someone has a key fob nearby. We also found that the sliding doors and we're hatched. Stop working along with the remote start, Until you manually start the vehicle turn it off and everything is restored, Lately , the fault has been going as far as the adaptive cruise regular crews and collisionsensingall go wonky until you restartthen you're fine.
Im curious to see if im dealing with the same issue, rh door pops when opening, its the pivot at the end of the cable tray, started about the same time as the random drain started... Thinking it being bound up stressed and broke something in that area 😬 pulled F27 RH slide door module 🤞
My '18 Pacifica just started draining the battery overnight. Tomorrow I troubleshoot!
LITERALLY SAME
Did this help?
Did it work?
I'm wondering if this could be a door module electronics issue???
First time I have ever in my life bought a brand new vehicle 2020 Pacifica and here we are… 🤦♀️ replaced the battery and two days later dead again. Will report back when I get a chance to check it.
Good stuff. You mind going over your maintenance intervals since yours has over 100K miles. I ask because I just bought a 2023 with 6K miles on it and then went to the Pacifica forum and several have had leaky head gaskets, cracked blocks, and have had engine replaced. I assume the Pentastar V6 was a well proven design.
I'm am now at over 190k I will be making a video in the next month or two about this
Thank you excellent explanation!!
Glad it was helpful!
@SparksNWreckreation I have a 2020 Pacifica when testing for a draw I attach the multimeter with the negative cable disconnected it shows 5.43 after a few seconds it goes down to 2.03. I can't tell if I have a draw or not.
Do you leave your keys in the car overnight? I'm wondering if this issue would go away if the Key FOB was not inside, because then it might trigger an open door scenario, but would not initiate the ready/start sequence. Could the parasitic draw issue be avoided by not leaving the keys inside the vehicle?
No keys in vehicle
This is what happens when you make something powered when it never should be, ontop of keyless igntions where there is no physical switch off of power like keyed ignition switches do.
THAAAAAANK YOU!!!
Np, glad it helped
I did the same as you / pulling the fuses out the only fuse that will stop my car is f55 and it won’t start without that one
Wait so i have to remove the fuse permanently? I have to choose between a functioning electronic door and a functioning battery that keeps its charge? Is that right (if this indeed is the problem I'm dealing with)?
It isolated the issue. You would need to repair the broken wire in the door slide tray. Like i explain at end of video
nice job bro thanks
Fml I checked it and it says F48 is the non populated one but that fuse is already gone
Unfortunately you will probably have to do what I did and over the course of an hour or two unplug every fuse 1 at a time until you isolate the problem
@@SparksNWreckreation how do I know what the problem is or when I’ve found it?
@alejorxdan
In this specific video I am showing a problem where once the key is out of the vehicle and you have walked away. About 30 seconds later the dash lights pop on and stay on for a min or two and then eventually shuts off. This cycle occurs for hours every few minutes until the battery is dead.
You pull a fuse one at a time checking to see if it stops that from happening.
If your van is killing the battery but it is not from the dash staying lit on and off you likely have a completely different issue.
Where the fuse for the auxiliary batt I think that is what killed my batt cause it gave me a start stop issue not this
Okay, but what if you don’t have automatic doors and your battery keeps draining? 😩
Still parasitic draw.
Do same process I did, you need to find out what system is drawing power.
So by pulling a fuse, the auxiliary battery won’t die?
By pulling the fuse, it stopped that specific system from getting power to the wire that is shorted, that was killing both batteries.
@@SparksNWreckreation how did it work out on your van? The only drawback was that door didn’t open automatically?
@@hump717
Yes exactly that
My cousin vehicle did have that fuse installed at all,his radio and dash lights stay on. I removed his fuse for the uconnect for three minutes and reinstalled the fuse and everything is normal for now but I told him to leave it for one night and don't use the radio f or now
My 2017 Pacifica has no fuse in F48 so the search continues
If it's cycling the dash lights, there is a circuit pulling power and triggering the car to cycle as if you just got in to start it.
You will need to use a meter to check for draw on each fuse, or if you don't have the proper tools. You can do what I did and pull each fuse 1 at a time until it stops cycling. Then look up which systems that fuse controls, then look for breaks, corrosion, etc.
I have this sounds too
But my buttery is ok ...its ben years like this..