4 Pre Ride Bike Checks | How To Check Your MTB Is Safe For Racing & Riding
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- Опубликовано: 19 сен 2024
- Our retired downhill world cup race mechanic Henry lets you know the 4 vital checks you should perform on your bike before an epic ride or race. He advises you check for play, make sure all bolts are torqued correctly and explains in detail how to keep your suspension and tyre pressures consistent. Follow these steps and you can focus on the ride 🤘
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Can't think of anyone more qualified to talk pre ride checks.
When I was racing XC many years ago in muddy conditions, on tip I found useful was adding a thin layer of car wax to the frame and rims, (carefully avoiding the brakes). This helped the mud slide off the bike instead of building/caking up during the race.
Silicone spray is good for this as long as like you said, avoid the brakes
Step 1: Drop
Step 2: “yeah she’ll send”
Hmmmmmm who would be mad enough to not listen to Henry's tips on pre ride checks
Super tips Henry ,great video GMBNTech
You're doing great m8, keep it going.
Always really informative Henry!
I think i clicked on an ASMR video by accident 😂
can't do without this show
i've got a bad gmbn tech habit
I’ve got an addiction
Thank you. Very usefull information.
I learned that the hard way I was riding and my pedal fell off
The line check is a cool idea
Definitely something that should be done more often
I probably should do this I’m racing tomorrow 😂
Will Bennett Good luck!
6:08 I had to adjust tthe pressure evry time I went out, yest it was same altitude, the pressures can vary a lot from day to day, and even ruing the ride.
so I had to adjust it during the ride few times too, I remember once I rode to the highest area in the city, it was no where near a mountain or high altitude, but close to the top I noticed my suspension was really soft, but the temps changed too I guess. so I had to pump it up.
also heating up the suspension will make a difference too, this of course only plays a role in spring,autumn or very mild winter, when temps go up and down but never stay super low, so if its in one digit sub zero, to plus, then you might experience this, but if it's 10-c suspension will be harsher, so be aware of this, so you don't crash out of the sudden cus the suspension feels slow and harsh and then after bombing down some stairs or doing many bunny hops it suddenly turns in to plush smooth suspension.
butt now I have coil front and back, and don't need a shock pump.
but I haven't tried in super cold temps yet, winter was quite mild this time, which is great.
🗣️yyyaaa guy Henry a finali the checkout of yuor bike. yu sey 🗣️ yyyaaa sig in yuor session's guy. Saluds from the Santig of Chile 🇨🇱#GMBNT #GMBNtechtips #GMBN
0:44 you also need to check for friction/lack of movement in hubs, if you notice that the cranks move with the wheel completely or in some gears or all off them it can mean two things the freehub mechanism has failed or the hub just need full bearing replacement.
if you loosen the axle so it's not properly tightened, and then test it and it works, it clearly is the bearings that are the problem.
I have Hope pro 4 hubs so the freehub mechanism won't fail, springs might wear after years of use, but that's it, if properly maintained of course.
1:57 just to add some more, on the tyre thing: it might be seated skewed, or be damaged, with one of mine I seem to seated it skewed, and it got worse after a ride, so I had to fully unseat it and seat it again, it was much better afterwards. no up and down feeling bumpy in the rear.
another tip, inspect tthe bead of the tyre at each tyre swap or each time you fill sealant, cus the bead at least on Maxxis tyres is the weakest link.
but once the knobs start to round off significantly and you see some cracks in the knobs, it might be the time of bead failure soon. at least for me, but some ride tyres for over a year, yes same tyre all year long, so knobs are all worn out down almost off, and bead still did not fail.
but I swap tyres for studded tyres, mud tyres, fast rolling tyres, I refill sealant, I ride hard, corner hard, ride technical terrain, bomb down steep downhills, do side hops fakies, I am sure all of this will result in significantly more wear on the bead than if not doing this.
Is there a video on how to remove / install internally routed hydraulic brakes? Need to upgrade the ones on my Scott Genius
great advice.
if you have mudguards check the zip ties, they might fail under a race, if they are too worn. also the mudguard might be damaged too.
on my last ride my but hit the rear Mudhugger, and the mudguard flexed into the studded tyre and but one zip tie failed, love having mudguard in the rear not only for mud but to protect my bum from the studded tyre.
Great Tips :)
Those purple stamps!
Nice video with good tips!
D. Kater You commented 1 minute into the video bro, not cool
@@camperhonsa8633 he knew it was gonna be damn good even before it was uploaded, thats why
Are you running Trickstuff pads?
get proper components, Is nessesary, see what works, use the components that are tested by you and others that work well, then you have less maintenance, having to check bolts unnecessarily is not something we all want. use Loctitte 243, if tthe components like stem are proper it will work but might not work at all if it's race face stem, that's my experience, but my experience with pedals & cranks show that it can loosen if I don't use Loctite 243, but it stays on secure months after months, I don't even remember how many months so many. same experience with Renthhal Apex stem, holds on and on, but not Race Face Atlas, Turbine, so have to check before, during and after just to be sure, bars spinning is not fun.
But of course if you hit a bar hard enough in a crash stem might spin and stem bolts loosen, but that's normal, but other wise it stays secure as long as Loctite 243 is used.
So of course I went with Renthal Apex stem on my new bike, just in 33 mm not 50.
also not all components from same brand are problematic, apart from the horrible preload ring that has a wood screw which I replaced to cane creek, it's been problem free, pedals don't loosen as long as tightened properly and use Loctite, but with cheap cranks I would destroy the threads, bend spider, and if square taper destroy the square taper hole in a short time, I did that on a spare bike, which I no longer ride.
1:07 I have Chris King headset so I haven't needed to do this, even months of use, no wear, play, very smooth, I love it.
but with original FSA headset on my old bike fuel ex 2014 it failed, crushed, in few weeks, i had two of same bike, other got rough after about a year or so. of course I tighten it correctly.
I put in Enduro & Cane Creek they too wore fast, but there might be something wrong with the headtube too, but I am not gonna deal with mass produced problematic bikes anymore.
on my old hardtail, I installed Chris King pressfit headset, the difference in tolerances of the old cheap cane creek headset which his manufactured by VP was huge, almost like they made it to be undersized to allow it to inaccurate headtube, but Chris King was properly sized, and is made for perfect fit, on one hardtail it worked smoothly, but on my other it required some extra work, butt I made it work, then it was all the way in and flush, but there was a gap, but that was cus the headtube was not flush at the bottom, but I never had a headset that worked so smoothly so long, no slop after long term use.
So of course I had to get Chris King for new bike, my Geometron G1 has one in black, with BB to match.
the install on Geometron/Nikolai frame with smoothly, both have great tolerances, it went straight it, that's how it should be.
what if the rev test finally makes it loose? just saying..
then it means that under a race it would happen.
Always make sure you've got clean pants on in case you need a trip in an ambulance.
imo these are things you should do after you wash your bike after a ride and store it for next time, no one is going to do all of this just before they head out
4th
What? Like you mean checking you tightened the front axle after unloading the bike from the car? Ahem. 😳
Spins wheels......damn I need a new wheelset.
Hours of my life would be saved each year if bike shops would simply test ride the bike before telling me it is ready to collect. Spinning the drivetrain on a work stand is not the same as putting load on it.
3rd sorry I’m late
13th
Hi second
You need more enthusiasm