This video is 4 years old AND STILL helping people like me save thousands annually! Thank you good sir! I’m in Mesa, AZ and always wondering whereabouts you are. Quick question regarding chlorine tablets made with cynauric acid that causes increasing levels…I have a million questions but I’ll keep it to one…I purchased Dohenys chlorine tablets, which according to Leslie Pools Store, is bonded with cynauric acid. My level was 150. They said they’ve seen 3,000 before. But, they still recommended me switch my pool water after only being filled for 3 months. What would you recommend? Switch to another tablet? Keep the same but drain in a year or so? What number or level of CYA would you change your pool water out??? Thank you so much! 🙏🏻
My CYA level is also high, not sure if he mentioned but you can do a partial drain, this step might have to be repeated . I live in the Cayman Islands so every day including winter it gets to high eighties , imagine if we had a rare temperature drop and we all emptied at the same time, we might flood the island lol. I am highly curious though how your level got to be that high in such a short time??? However mine is gradually dropping, with partial drains and refills and regular water tests switch to cal Hypo tablets that do not have the CYA in them , that way you control the CYA , hope that helps , a lesson learned my friend
I have been trying to find someone to explain how to take care of my pool in a simple straight forward way. I gave up and have been paying pinch a penny $125 a month to take care of my pool. After watching several of your videos I know now that I no longer need to spend $1500 a year on our pool. I liked and subscribed to your channel after the first video. I Hope you have one on salt pools. Thanks for putting out this information.
I'm really glad these videos have helped. Mission accomplished. And I do have a few videos on salt systems. Here's links to them: Salt Systems Part 1: ruclips.net/video/o_NRYkFHuBg/видео.html Cleaning your Salt Cell: ruclips.net/video/DZuMcj7UydM/видео.html Testing Salt Levels in Your Pool: ruclips.net/video/30xvXoSAS4c/видео.html Hope these help. And thanks for watching.
You can burn off CYA without draining your pool. Mine was at 106 and I switched to liquid chlorine and 2 weeks later it was 85; It seems like you burn off 2ppm per day and if you don't add more CYA with Tabs you can lower your levels. Id guess you can lower it 45-50 ppm in a month, adding 3-4 gallons of liquiid chlorine a week. It's actually cheaper than tabs.
Keep in mind if u have a sand filter and backwash your filter, you slowly get rid of water and there is no need to drain and fill. I still use tablets on my pools but i decrease use if cya creeps up and stick to liquid chlorine until levels are manageable again.
Adam V I used to think that as well, but at least in Arizona, I have found and the guys that I used to work for also found that the water still needed to be changed every 5 to 7 years because the backwashing really didn’t replace freshwater fast enough. Although it definitely helps to prolon I used to think that as well, but at least in Arizona, I have found and the guys that I used to work for also found that the water still needed to be changed every 5 to 7 years because the backwashing really didn’t replace fresh water fast enough. Although it definitely helps to extend the time between changing water. I’ve also heard of what they call a “poor man’s“ water change which they basically change half the water which buys a person more time so they don’t have to use all that water.
I work for a Pool Supply store, I'd say telling people to change their water due to high CYA levels gets some of the most negative feedback out of all my recommendations lol
All they can see is the water bill it will cost them while being oblivious to the increased chlorine cost they're incurring. Site Note. I live in the country with some acreage. When my CYA level got high last year I started using pool water to water my lawn in an area that was struggling and where my sprinkler system doesn't reach. (I have hose bibs on the piping from my pumps.) I got the CYA level down to 30 and that area is now coming in really well. I was puzzled as to why my electric bills were so high during the summer. I know that I can't get as low of a rate as I once got. Then it hit me that it was the electricity used to pump water from my well that likely caused the increase. Money well spent. Fixed the pool and fixed the yard at the same time.
Typically to lower the CYA enough to help you should drain AT LEAST 1/2 of the water. Best would be to drain and refill the pool completely but not until your CYA levels reach 300ppm or if they're over 150ppm and its not holding chlorine well.
Thanks for the awesome video. Question about the scenario of having wild animals defecate in your pool? I live in the east coast, and unfortunately, in the spring time, before I open the Pool, we have raccoons coming at night to defecate in the pool. I read that they carry viruses and bacteria in their urine and waste that chlorine does not kill. Would you recommend draining the water because of this issue?
Unfortunately, I’m not a biologist or an epidemiologist or virologist or knowledgeable in any field, dealing with viruses. And diseases that wild animals may carry. I know in Arizona there is a season that for a period of time some of my clients Pools will have ducks who defecate in the pool as well I’m not sure what kind of diseases they carry chlorine is a sanitizer and typically can kill most bacteria. I’m not sure about viruses. But I do know that creates a lot of phosphates so what we do in Arizona is keep the filter, media clean, make sure our chlorine/sanitizer levels are up in the higher end of ideal, and then use a phosphate remover like PR 10,000 to keep the phosphate levels low. Unfortunately I’m not sure I can comment accurately or authoritatively about your situation with the raccoons. My best suggestion would be for peace of mind if it makes you feel safe to drain and refill the pool. It’s probably a good idea. Better safe than sorry. But you might want to contact some local experts about That situation and see what they have to say.
Great video Sir, question: in regard to your information about the chlorine tablets and having CYA, do you feel is best to use liquid chlorine instead and add conditioner as needed or should you use tablets regardless.
It really depends on balancing out the pros and cons of each. If you don't mind testing and adding chlorine daily then BY FAR the best option is Liquid Chlorine (it's the best option for chlorine) HOWEVER if you aren't able to commit to that (as most people aren't due to their lifestyle and business) the tablets are FAR more convenient as you usually test and add once a week (rather than daily like liquid chlorine). ALSO the only way to lower the CYA of a pool is through dilution (adding fresh water to your pool). In hot climates where there is a high evaporation rate of pool water, (meaning fresh water is added daily and quite a bit) like in AZ then the amount of CYA being added to a pool via tablets is slowed down by that fact, (usually it'll take around 5 years to reach a high CYA level meriting changing the water in a place like AZ with tablets PROVIDING YOU START AT THE LOW END OF IDEAL FOR CYA - 30ppm). I've got a video coming out on August 15 on types of chlorine and how to choose the right one for your pool needs. Subscribe to my channel and turn on notifications so you don't miss it.
@@AM2PMReviews It may or may not. I've serviced pools with 300+ ppm of cya and some have done great with the chlorine and others have burned through more.
Is it possible to buy chlorine tablets without cya/stabiliser. I look after an indoor pool. My understanding is that cya helps prevent the sun from neutralising the chlorine, sort of like a sun screen, I guess. Does an indoor pool require cya?
Gillian Ellison I’m not really sure. I’d suggest looking online for such a product. But if it’s indoor you may want to try liquid chlorine. You’ll just have to check it more often. Maybe every other day.
I maintain pools in Florida, and an indoor pool does not need cya. Also, I use accu tabs. It had no stabilizer in them, but does have calcium in them. Sustained tablets has no stabilizer in them either.
@@brettthacker448Can you be more specific about which clorinator is needed for pucks with no CYA? I'm assuming you're referring to the tablet floaty when you say clorinator.
So it could be the plaster or other surface chemistry and just surround air that its doing it. ALSO people (and pets) in the pool can alter both as well.
@@PoolSchooler I’ve been trying to bring up the alkalinity all day. I’ve added 4 lbs. of baking soda, one pound at a time, and nothing. Then I added 5# of Clorox Alkalinity Increaser, and still nothing. My alkalinity is 40 and the PH is 9.0. So, now we are having a dust storm!
first and foremost test your water chemistry. Mainly, CYA, Chlorine (Free and total), Ph and Alkalinity. Then add as necessary. To bring chlorine levels up quickly add liquid chlorine (amount depends on the current level and gallonage of your pool). To raise ph add soda ash (usually 1 lb at a time and re-test to see the level). To lower Ph, add liquid muriatic acid (usually 1qt at at time and re test to see level. To Raise Alkalinity use bicarbonate of soda (usually 1 lb at a time and re test to see level). To lower alkalinity use dry acid (2 or 3 cups at a time and re test to see level). CYA see my video on CYA: ruclips.net/video/_z55SBsjadw/видео.html BTW - I'm going to do a video on start up chems for a refilled pool soon.
Hi Pool School. I'm in AZ, too. Today's afternoon high is 100 degrees. Still too hot to drain a pebble tech pool? It was suggested we drain overnight, refill in the morning. Or is it best to just wait another week?
Matt Leshinskie pebble Tec Pools are not as prone to cracking in the heat, I know several pool service guys who have no problem draining and refilling a pebble Tec pool in the summer, but I think as a good rule of thumb to avoid the possibility of drying the pebble Tec out too quickly waiting till it cools down a bit more so that the daytime highs are below around 84° that way there’s really no risk of hurting your pebble Tec. So if you can wait I would highly recommend waiting till the daytime temperatures don’t get above 84°. Better to not take the risk. That’s my opinion and experience.
I’ve lived in my house for 12 years never drained it! My house is old built in the 70s who knows if they previous owner ever drained it! If I shock and dump liquid chlorine in it’s good for about a week! Then it starts looking like shit! I live in Fresno ca! I think from you video I need to drain!
Sounds like old water. BUT you can check your cyanic acid levels and if they're higher than 180-200ppm you should probably change your water. BUT make sure you don't do it when the outside air temperature gets over 86˚ f. or you may risk damage to your pool surface (plaster or pebble tech).
Found a dead bird after a windy night, less than 24hr, should I change out my water on 22k gallon pool? Now would be a perfect temp to do it. 80-90 degree F.
I wouldn't. Your if your chlorine should be able to sanitize your water just fine. If you're concerned add a pound of trichlor shock and run your system for 24 hours.
I have found dead bats, rabbits, birds etc in my pools and there's no need to change the water. That's part of what the sanitizer (chlorine, salt generator) is for.
I was told by Leslie pool store my calcium hardness is 600. Range should be 200-400. I have 15k pool. How many inches should I drain then refill and test hardness? CYA is good around 40
BEFORE you do any of that test your pool's water source. In Arizona our water is so hard (already has a lot of calcium) in it but because it's our water's natural condition you can't do anything about. If you have hard water coming out of your hose bib (where you're auto leveler feeds from) then the water is hard period and no amount of replacing water will help. Hope that makes sense. I think I mention that in this video. If not watch my video on Calcium. Here;'s a link: ruclips.net/video/QC5ZYG27Z48/видео.html. Please watch it as it will explain what I just said only better.
Hi tank you for your videos. I have a question, I change my water las year , I change because my cya was really high. A change myself. The problem now after a year my water taste really salty. I use liquid chlorine . I live in California. But my weather in summer is really hi 100 Degrees to 110 , so I use like 1 gallon of Chlorine every week, you think that’s the reason why my water has that salty taste
Thank you for your question. I live in Arizona and our summer temperatures can get as high as 120° so that should not affect your CYA levels. The only thing I can think of is if you have a water softener which uses salt, and if you’re Water source for your pool water is coming from that softened water. That might be the reason.
need your help if you can give it - love the channel by the way. having my pool with a new finish of "pebble" and have a salt pool. I heard i should not add salt for the first 28 days and also people have said dont add CYA for awhile. Also, heard with pebble brushing is not that important, so lost on pool start up. anything you can do to help would be great.
Thanks for your comment. So I would agree that you should wait awhile (but not too long) to add salt and CYA in a Pebble Tec pool. I'm. not sure why but I trust my source. Also, I believe brushing any type of pool is important on a weekly basis. In fact on a pebble tec pool it's, in my opinion, more important as there are so many areas where dirt and algae spores can attach to. Whereas plaster is smoother (at least when it's new). So I'd say brushing it weekly is important. But I really prefer the pebble tec to other surfaces. Hope that helps.
I am sharing many of your videos with my husband. We bought our house almost 2 yrs ago. Last summer we had high cyanuric acid and we were told to drain our pool. We waited until spring and then opened our pool and we were told our chlorine levels were wayyyy too high and needed to drain our pool….. currently our chlorine level is leveling out. Our water has always been clear and beautiful. The only thing we had this year is a bit of yellow ish stuff on the underside of the ladder steps on the deep end. We are lost. I found your channel because we were looking for a vacuum and we’re getting the barracuda g3.
I think that's a great choice of vacuums. Regarding the "yellowish stuff" that's most likely mustard algae and if you get your phosphates under control that should take care of it. Here's a link to what I believe is one of the most vital videos I've ever done on Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them: ruclips.net/video/MzGoK4Cd7tc/видео.html Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you'll subscribe and please do check out my website poolschooler.com
@@PoolSchooler I’m sorry I did not mention that I definitely did subscribe!!! Your channel is so helpful!!! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us. You have a gift of teaching for sure. I will be recommending to everyone I know who has a pool!!!
if the issue of old water is discovered late in season when temps are above 80 but not yet 90 can empty and fill process be done over night and not risk pool damage? or what is best to do if its too hot to drain and fill but the water is confirmed "old". is there any to prolong life of water till colder months?
I'm a firm believer that once the outside air temp surpasses 84 degrees (f) then you should wait til the overall temp goes down a bit. I think you're still taking a risk in trying to drain and refill your pool over night even with a really powerful pump and unless you have a fire hose you won't come close to filling the pool that quickly especially since you'd be draining it and filling it in the same night. So you may have to just wait til the end of the season. FYI I've serviced pools (before I started my own business) that the CYA levels were over 300ppm and I managed to keep the chlorine levels ok til the end of the season.
If your source water is hard then there's really nothing you can do about it. This video will help you understand about water hardness (typically due to calcium): ruclips.net/video/QC5ZYG27Z48/видео.html
I’m actually filling my pool now because the water was cloudy and the TDS was 4600. You reminded me about when I had a cyanuric acid problem. The levels were high. Like three times what they should be high. And the TDS was well over 4000. I drained and filled the pool. They told me to put in stabilizer. I hesitated and had the water tested a 2nd. They was so much residual cyanuric acid in my pool that was already at the mid range without me doing anything.
Yup. That's why I say ALWAYS test your water first when you refill it BEFORE you add any chemicals to see what you have to deal with. There is always some sort of chemical residual if you do a drain and refill. Even if you do an acid wash, you can have at the very least residual acid in the pool which will affect ph and alkalinity. Glad you tested the water before adding anything. Well done and thanks for the comment. Hope you subscribed.
How much water do you need to change? I have a float that adds water when the pool level gets low. New Water enters the pool about every 4-5 days so do I need to worry about changing my water?
Victoria Hesenflow yes you still do. The autofiller doesn’t add enough fresh water to offset the saturation on the whole of the pool. And when you do change your water out if change it all.
I just had my water tested and, because the TDS was 3700, the man told me to change my water. But my cyanuric acid is only 100. I've lived here for 7.5 years and haven't changed my water. I don't know when the previous resident changed it. Can I wait until the cyanuric acid gets higher? I've fought with algae for 2 months and put 30 pounds of chlorine in and it still isn't high in chlorine.
Consider this: Salt (salt pools) becomes part of the total dissolved solids TDS of pool water AND the recommended level of salt for a salt generator is between 2700 and 3400ppm. Then add the other Dissolved Solids and you can easily get to 3700 ppm in a pool and still not have to change the water. If you did at 3700ppm with a salt pool you'd be changing the water all the time. CYA is the main indicator of needing to change the water and 100 is in the ideal range so, in my opinion, you're fine there. I don't even recommend changing water out til it gets near 300ppm. So I'd disagree with whomever is recommending you change your water. Not sure why you can't get your chlorine level up tho. Are you using algaecides to fight the algae? If so I'll bet ya a quarter that's the reason you can't get your chlorine levels up. Most algaecides eat up chlorine as they fight algae. (One of a few reasons I don't like algaecides). With regards to algae I'd really recommend my video on Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them. I think it'll help with your lifelong batter with the stuff. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/MzGoK4Cd7tc/видео.html Please watch that video and let me know if it helps.
I am sharing many of your videos with my husband. We bought our house almost 2 yrs ago. Last summer we had high cyanuric acid and we were told to drain our pool. We waited until spring and then opened our pool and we were told our chlorine levels were wayyyy too high and needed to drain our pool….. currently our chlorine level is leveling out. Our water has always been clear and beautiful. The only thing we had this year is a bit of yellow ish stuff on the underside of the ladder steps on the deep end. We are lost. I found your channel because we were looking for a vacuum and we’re getting the barracuda g3.
Well if you have a plaster pool and you've drained it to change the water that would be the time to do an acid wash if the plaster is looking dingle. ALSO the hot summer months are not the time to drain and refill your pool. The intense heat can crack and damage your plaster. So if you have a plaster pool wait til it gets cooler to drain and refill the pool. I'm doing a video on start up chemicals in new water in the next week so stay tuned.
HVAC Mike under normal circumstances you shouldn’t have to. But there are times when you might have a lot of people in the pool like a pool party or you might need to supplement a little bit with a tablet or two. Or if you have low salt sometimes it won’t produce enough purifier. It’s really important to keep up on your salt levels and keep the self clean. It’s also important that your system runs long enough so the seller can do its job and convert the salt water to enough purifier.
It is more accurate than most test strips and is the official testing system for USA Swimming but is more time consuming so I could see why pool pros would just use strips.
...I use the Fas-dpd one, and if you like feeling like a mad scientist for 20 minutes, it can be 20 to 30 percent more accurate. I'm not a pool pro, just a pool geek...
I use the Taylor K2006 test kit. It is more accurate. I prefer the 2006 over the 2005 because the dpd powder to test the chlorine with is more accurate than the liquid reagents to test the chlorine with.
I have an 18k gallon fiberglass pool. The pool store told me I can do a gradual drain and refill... meaning I put a pump in the pool for a couple hours and then put the hose in to put in fresh. Does this seem adequate? (I’ve heard horror stories of fiberglass pools popping out of the ground if the water level gets too low... I don’t know if this is true or not. Is it true?). I live in Seattle and have limited access for help. Also it has cartridges for cleaning. My cya was 129 which they said was fine but my tds was 2000. Thanks so much for your help!
I honestly don’t think you need to do a drain or refill of your pool. Total dissolved solids is not an indicator of needing to drain and refill your pool. Consider this, people who have salt pools need to keep their salt levels between 2700 and 3400 ppm. The salt in the pool is considered a total dissolved solid. So in order to even have your salt system functioning you have to have at least 2700 ppm of total dissolved solids in your pool. Add that to the typical total dissolved solids of regular minerals that are in your source water and all chlorine etc. that dissolves in the pool and your total dissolved solids can actually be pretty high. So my opinion is I would not listen to the pool supply company I am not a big fan of them for reasons like this. The only real reason that you should drain and refill your pool is if your CYA gets really high like between 250 and 300 ppm. Total dissolved solids is not a reason to drain and refill your pool
Usually if your total chlorine is high your free chlorine will be too. If that’s the case stop adding chlorine to your pool until the levels go back down to the proper range.
@@PoolSchooler thank you for you reply! I am struggling. I live in Chandler and I just bought a house with a pool and I am trying to figure it out. I got the water tested and they said the free and total chlorine is high total alkalinity it 30 ppm higher than it should be and the calcium hardness, phosphate and TDS are high. They told us to drain it. I've watched all your videos and I'm still not 100% sure that is what is needed. What's your opinion?
@@rockiie09 Based on what you said here I would highly recommend changing your pool water basically that means draining and refilling your pool with fresh water. Then you can get a fresh start but you want to do it before things start warming up now is actually a really good time. Then watch my video on start up chemicals and how to add them so that way you don’t overdose your pool right off the bat. And once you have that done I would seriously recommend not always listening to a pool supply store, they’re going to try to sell you a ton of stuff you don’t need. I’m not sure if you really watched all of my videos there’s over 170 of them. But there are some that would be very helpful for you. Like testing your pool water, adding chlorine tablets to your pool, chlorine tablets how many does your pool need, how to adjust the pH of your pool, how to adjust the alkalinity of your pool water. I also have a video on total dissolved solids and calcium and I also have one on cyanuric acid and changing your pool water. I would suggest watching those once you drain and refill your pool with fresh water make sure it’s not coming from a source that has a water softener on it. Just a hose bib/spigot from your backyard since those are usually not tied to a soft water loop. And then watch my video on start up chemicals and how to add them and that will get you started off on the right foot
@@PoolSchooler right. Sorry I haven't watched all of them but the ones you mentioned as well as the ones pertaining to draining, refilling, testing the water... thanks for your help!!
David Newhouse out here in AZ it runs between $75 and $125 per month. The higher ones usually include chemicals and vacuum service and the lower range only charge you for chems used and usually don’t vac the pool. When it comes to chemicals, in Arizona, the pool companies that include chemicals have to charge enough so that they don’t lose money with the extreme amount of chemicals they get used in the summer out here because of heat evaporation and use. Personally, I prefer the companies that only charge for chemicals used because even though the cost might be higher in the summer, I think with some of my clients their most expensive bill in the summer is maybe $95 but in the winter months you hardly use any chemicals so that way my clients save a bit of money during those months. It’s really important to keep in mind that if you’re going to get a pool service person or company make sure they are good and reliable. Too many pool service companies hire kids who skip pools or do really sloppy work. Or they’re so busy servicing pools each week that when there is a repair needed it takes them forever to get to it.
Pool School wow that sounds pretty good. I'm in Hawaii and a quality pool service average I'd say now is $160 chems included. Everything is more expensive here tho so I guess that sounds about right. Thanks man!
David Newhouse yeah. In Hawaii that’d sound pretty good. I’m going to be doing a video on “how I Service a pool each week” to show what I do each time I Service a pool each week. Hopefully that will help you to know if you’re getting your moneys worth with the company you hired. Aloha.
This is something most anyone can do for him/herself. The most important thing is to know when NOT to empty your pool - and that is after a heavy rainfall or if heavy rainfall is predicted during the period in which you intend to drain and refill your pool. If you live in an area with a high water table and have heavy rain while the pool is empty (or nearly so), it can literally pop out of the ground - a catastrophic event to say the least) - so plan carefully. To to anyplace that rents tools like Home Depot and rent an industrial submersible pump - generally a 2" output pump will work just fine. Make sure to get as much hose from them as you'll need to run to wherever you intend to drain the water. Shut down your pump. Then, hook up the hose, run it to the drain, drop the pump into the deepest part of your pool and run it until your pool is as empty as you want it to be. Once your pool is at the level you wish, shut off the submersible pump. Now, you'll just fill your pool using an outdoor spigot and a garden hose. It will fill more quickly if you have two spigots and hoses. While the pool is filling, return the pump to the rental center. Once it fills, shut off the hoses and begin establishing your chemical balance. Then all you will need to do is wait for the bill from the water company.
@@chuckschillingvideos ...and a phone call or email from your water utility about unusually high water usage (they are trying to alert you to a major leak, which is cool!)
I only use the pucks during the summer and minimally along with liquid chlorine. During the winter I only use liquid. I don't usually have an issue with CYA levels getting too high with this approach. I'm more likely to change my water due to TDS or hardness. I don't understand why so many people try to use the pucks exclusively, it just ends up causing issues. It's also surprising how many pool owners don't even understand what CYA is and why it needs to be managed correctly.
Unscented bleach is great and all...but it has stupid amounts of salt in it...sorry to break it to you....but if your using a chlorine....its either calcium based or salt based...try and use official liquid pool chlorine
stay up wow! That seems too often. If the pool is being maintained regularly it should not have to be done that often. My neighbor does that every year or two but only because he neglects his pool and then has to drain it and start over because it’s so far gone.
Sorry for the long windedness. Much of the time I try to give enough information as to not be misunderstood. I apologize for being to "wordy" at times.
Sorry for my perceived long windedness. I try to find a balance between giving enough information/explanation whilst still avoiding confusion and misunderstanding.
This video is 4 years old AND STILL helping people like me save thousands annually! Thank you good sir! I’m in Mesa, AZ and always wondering whereabouts you are. Quick question regarding chlorine tablets made with cynauric acid that causes increasing levels…I have a million questions but I’ll keep it to one…I purchased Dohenys chlorine tablets, which according to Leslie Pools Store, is bonded with cynauric acid. My level was 150. They said they’ve seen 3,000 before. But, they still recommended me switch my pool water after only being filled for 3 months. What would you recommend? Switch to another tablet? Keep the same but drain in a year or so? What number or level of CYA would you change your pool water out???
Thank you so much! 🙏🏻
My CYA level is also high, not sure if he mentioned but you can do a partial drain, this step might have to be repeated . I live in the Cayman Islands so every day including winter it gets to high eighties , imagine if we had a rare temperature drop and we all emptied at the same time, we might flood the island lol. I am highly curious though how your level got to be that high in such a short time??? However mine is gradually dropping, with partial drains and refills and regular water tests switch to cal Hypo tablets that do not have the CYA in them , that way you control the CYA , hope that helps , a lesson learned my friend
I have been trying to find someone to explain how to take care of my pool in a simple straight forward way. I gave up and have been paying pinch a penny $125 a month to take care of my pool. After watching several of your videos I know now that I no longer need to spend $1500 a year on our pool.
I liked and subscribed to your channel after the first video. I Hope you have one on salt pools.
Thanks for putting out this information.
I'm really glad these videos have helped. Mission accomplished. And I do have a few videos on salt systems. Here's links to them:
Salt Systems Part 1: ruclips.net/video/o_NRYkFHuBg/видео.html
Cleaning your Salt Cell: ruclips.net/video/DZuMcj7UydM/видео.html
Testing Salt Levels in Your Pool: ruclips.net/video/30xvXoSAS4c/видео.html
Hope these help. And thanks for watching.
You can burn off CYA without draining your pool. Mine was at 106 and I switched to liquid chlorine and 2 weeks later it was 85; It seems like you burn off 2ppm per day and if you don't add more CYA with Tabs you can lower your levels. Id guess you can lower it 45-50 ppm in a month, adding 3-4 gallons of liquiid chlorine a week. It's actually cheaper than tabs.
Good to know. Thanks for commenting.
Keep in mind if u have a sand filter and backwash your filter, you slowly get rid of water and there is no need to drain and fill. I still use tablets on my pools but i decrease use if cya creeps up and stick to liquid chlorine until levels are manageable again.
Adam V I used to think that as well, but at least in Arizona, I have found and the guys that I used to work for also found that the water still needed to be changed every 5 to 7 years because the backwashing really didn’t replace freshwater fast enough. Although it definitely helps to prolon I used to think that as well, but at least in Arizona, I have found and the guys that I used to work for also found that the water still needed to be changed every 5 to 7 years because the backwashing really didn’t replace fresh water fast enough. Although it definitely helps to extend the time between changing water. I’ve also heard of what they call a “poor man’s“ water change which they basically change half the water which buys a person more time so they don’t have to use all that water.
I work for a Pool Supply store, I'd say telling people to change their water due to high CYA levels gets some of the most negative feedback out of all my recommendations lol
All they can see is the water bill it will cost them while being oblivious to the increased chlorine cost they're incurring. Site Note. I live in the country with some acreage. When my CYA level got high last year I started using pool water to water my lawn in an area that was struggling and where my sprinkler system doesn't reach. (I have hose bibs on the piping from my pumps.) I got the CYA level down to 30 and that area is now coming in really well. I was puzzled as to why my electric bills were so high during the summer. I know that I can't get as low of a rate as I once got. Then it hit me that it was the electricity used to pump water from my well that likely caused the increase. Money well spent. Fixed the pool and fixed the yard at the same time.
@@kevingray8616 that was great thinking and innovative. Way to go.
To lower a high CYA, how much water should be drained? Just below the skimmer throat or more deeper?
Typically to lower the CYA enough to help you should drain AT LEAST 1/2 of the water. Best would be to drain and refill the pool completely but not until your CYA levels reach 300ppm or if they're over 150ppm and its not holding chlorine well.
Thanks for the awesome video. Question about the scenario of having wild animals defecate in your pool? I live in the east coast, and unfortunately, in the spring time, before I open the Pool, we have raccoons coming at night to defecate in the pool. I read that they carry viruses and bacteria in their urine and waste that chlorine does not kill. Would you recommend draining the water because of this issue?
Unfortunately, I’m not a biologist or an epidemiologist or virologist or knowledgeable in any field, dealing with viruses. And diseases that wild animals may carry. I know in Arizona there is a season that for a period of time some of my clients Pools will have ducks who defecate in the pool as well I’m not sure what kind of diseases they carry chlorine is a sanitizer and typically can kill most bacteria. I’m not sure about viruses. But I do know that creates a lot of phosphates so what we do in Arizona is keep the filter, media clean, make sure our chlorine/sanitizer levels are up in the higher end of ideal, and then use a phosphate remover like PR 10,000 to keep the phosphate levels low. Unfortunately I’m not sure I can comment accurately or authoritatively about your situation with the raccoons. My best suggestion would be for peace of mind if it makes you feel safe to drain and refill the pool. It’s probably a good idea. Better safe than sorry. But you might want to contact some local experts about That situation and see what they have to say.
@@PoolSchoolerThank you for your quick response. I really appreciate it. Have a nice day!
@@zhizhong92 you’re welcome, hope you will still subscribe to my channel and share it with others.
Great video Sir, question: in regard to your information about the chlorine tablets and having CYA, do you feel is best to use liquid chlorine instead and add conditioner as needed or should you use tablets regardless.
It really depends on balancing out the pros and cons of each. If you don't mind testing and adding chlorine daily then BY FAR the best option is Liquid Chlorine (it's the best option for chlorine) HOWEVER if you aren't able to commit to that (as most people aren't due to their lifestyle and business) the tablets are FAR more convenient as you usually test and add once a week (rather than daily like liquid chlorine). ALSO the only way to lower the CYA of a pool is through dilution (adding fresh water to your pool). In hot climates where there is a high evaporation rate of pool water, (meaning fresh water is added daily and quite a bit) like in AZ then the amount of CYA being added to a pool via tablets is slowed down by that fact, (usually it'll take around 5 years to reach a high CYA level meriting changing the water in a place like AZ with tablets PROVIDING YOU START AT THE LOW END OF IDEAL FOR CYA - 30ppm). I've got a video coming out on August 15 on types of chlorine and how to choose the right one for your pool needs. Subscribe to my channel and turn on notifications so you don't miss it.
How much do you charge to change out water? I am in Goodyear AZ. Is it too hot already to do it? I have about 300 PPM CYA
It is a little too hot to do it now. I will wait till the fall after the sun season. And also I don’t travel that far sorry.
@@PoolSchooler okay no worries... so it will just take more chlorine to make it as effective since I have 300 ppm of cya?
@@AM2PMReviews It may or may not. I've serviced pools with 300+ ppm of cya and some have done great with the chlorine and others have burned through more.
@@PoolSchooler maybe I can just empty it half way tonight and spray down the walls occasionally and 150ppm is fine? Then only use dichlor
@@AM2PMReviews I guess you could but I personally would recommend waiting until fall and cooler weather.
Is it possible to buy chlorine tablets without cya/stabiliser. I look after an indoor pool. My understanding is that cya helps prevent the sun from neutralising the chlorine, sort of like a sun screen, I guess. Does an indoor pool require cya?
Gillian Ellison I’m not really sure. I’d suggest looking online for such a product. But if it’s indoor you may want to try liquid chlorine. You’ll just have to check it more often. Maybe every other day.
In Texas, you can’t have stabilizer in an indoor pool. Yes, they do have tablets with no stabilizer. You’ll need a different chlorinator though
Brett Thacker good to know. Thanks for sharing.
I maintain pools in Florida, and an indoor pool does not need cya. Also, I use accu tabs. It had no stabilizer in them, but does have calcium in them. Sustained tablets has no stabilizer in them either.
@@brettthacker448Can you be more specific about which clorinator is needed for pucks with no CYA? I'm assuming you're referring to the tablet floaty when you say clorinator.
The water coming out of my well has a better reading on alkalinity and PH than the water in my pool.
So it could be the plaster or other surface chemistry and just surround air that its doing it. ALSO people (and pets) in the pool can alter both as well.
@@PoolSchooler I’ve been trying to bring up the alkalinity all day. I’ve added 4 lbs. of baking soda, one pound at a time, and nothing. Then I added 5# of Clorox Alkalinity Increaser, and still nothing. My alkalinity is 40 and the PH is 9.0. So, now we are having a dust storm!
@pool school Kenny, what do you add to the water after refilling the pool?
first and foremost test your water chemistry. Mainly, CYA, Chlorine (Free and total), Ph and Alkalinity. Then add as necessary. To bring chlorine levels up quickly add liquid chlorine (amount depends on the current level and gallonage of your pool).
To raise ph add soda ash (usually 1 lb at a time and re-test to see the level).
To lower Ph, add liquid muriatic acid (usually 1qt at at time and re test to see level.
To Raise Alkalinity use bicarbonate of soda (usually 1 lb at a time and re test to see level).
To lower alkalinity use dry acid (2 or 3 cups at a time and re test to see level).
CYA see my video on CYA: ruclips.net/video/_z55SBsjadw/видео.html
BTW - I'm going to do a video on start up chems for a refilled pool soon.
Hi Pool School. I'm in AZ, too. Today's afternoon high is 100 degrees. Still too hot to drain a pebble tech pool? It was suggested we drain overnight, refill in the morning. Or is it best to just wait another week?
Matt Leshinskie pebble Tec Pools are not as prone to cracking in the heat, I know several pool service guys who have no problem draining and refilling a pebble Tec pool in the summer, but I think as a good rule of thumb to avoid the possibility of drying the pebble Tec out too quickly waiting till it cools down a bit more so that the daytime highs are below around 84° that way there’s really no risk of hurting your pebble Tec. So if you can wait I would highly recommend waiting till the daytime temperatures don’t get above 84°. Better to not take the risk. That’s my opinion and experience.
I’ve lived in my house for 12 years never drained it! My house is old built in the 70s who knows if they previous owner ever drained it! If I shock and dump liquid chlorine in it’s good for about a week! Then it starts looking like shit! I live in Fresno ca! I think from you video I need to drain!
Sounds like old water. BUT you can check your cyanic acid levels and if they're higher than 180-200ppm you should probably change your water. BUT make sure you don't do it when the outside air temperature gets over 86˚ f. or you may risk damage to your pool surface (plaster or pebble tech).
Found a dead bird after a windy night, less than 24hr, should I change out my water on 22k gallon pool? Now would be a perfect temp to do it. 80-90 degree F.
I wouldn't. Your if your chlorine should be able to sanitize your water just fine. If you're concerned add a pound of trichlor shock and run your system for 24 hours.
I have found dead bats, rabbits, birds etc in my pools and there's no need to change the water. That's part of what the sanitizer (chlorine, salt generator) is for.
I was told by Leslie pool store my calcium hardness is 600. Range should be 200-400. I have 15k pool. How many inches should I drain then refill and test hardness? CYA is good around 40
BEFORE you do any of that test your pool's water source. In Arizona our water is so hard (already has a lot of calcium) in it but because it's our water's natural condition you can't do anything about. If you have hard water coming out of your hose bib (where you're auto leveler feeds from) then the water is hard period and no amount of replacing water will help. Hope that makes sense. I think I mention that in this video. If not watch my video on Calcium. Here;'s a link: ruclips.net/video/QC5ZYG27Z48/видео.html. Please watch it as it will explain what I just said only better.
Hi tank you for your videos. I have a question, I change my water las year , I change because my cya was really high. A change myself. The problem now after a year my water taste really salty. I use liquid chlorine . I live in California. But my weather in summer is really hi 100 Degrees to 110 , so I use like 1 gallon of Chlorine every week, you think that’s the reason why my water has that salty taste
Thank you for your question. I live in Arizona and our summer temperatures can get as high as 120° so that should not affect your CYA levels. The only thing I can think of is if you have a water softener which uses salt, and if you’re Water source for your pool water is coming from that softened water. That might be the reason.
@@PoolSchooler tank you for responding! I’m going to change the water because the taste is to much! The softener comes in the city water?
@@alejandrovargas5882 wow that's interesting.
need your help if you can give it - love the channel by the way. having my pool with a new finish of "pebble" and have a salt pool. I heard i should not add salt for the first 28 days and also people have said dont add CYA for awhile. Also, heard with pebble brushing is not that important, so lost on pool start up. anything you can do to help would be great.
Thanks for your comment. So I would agree that you should wait awhile (but not too long) to add salt and CYA in a Pebble Tec pool. I'm. not sure why but I trust my source.
Also, I believe brushing any type of pool is important on a weekly basis. In fact on a pebble tec pool it's, in my opinion, more important as there are so many areas where dirt and algae spores can attach to. Whereas plaster is smoother (at least when it's new). So I'd say brushing it weekly is important. But I really prefer the pebble tec to other surfaces. Hope that helps.
I am sharing many of your videos with my husband. We bought our house almost 2 yrs ago. Last summer we had high cyanuric acid and we were told to drain our pool. We waited until spring and then opened our pool and we were told our chlorine levels were wayyyy too high and needed to drain our pool….. currently our chlorine level is leveling out. Our water has always been clear and beautiful. The only thing we had this year is a bit of yellow ish stuff on the underside of the ladder steps on the deep end. We are lost. I found your channel because we were looking for a vacuum and we’re getting the barracuda g3.
I think that's a great choice of vacuums. Regarding the "yellowish stuff" that's most likely mustard algae and if you get your phosphates under control that should take care of it. Here's a link to what I believe is one of the most vital videos I've ever done on Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them: ruclips.net/video/MzGoK4Cd7tc/видео.html
Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you'll subscribe and please do check out my website poolschooler.com
@@PoolSchooler I’m sorry I did not mention that I definitely did subscribe!!! Your channel is so helpful!!! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us. You have a gift of teaching for sure. I will be recommending to everyone I know who has a pool!!!
@@iamwithhim1434 Thank you.
if the issue of old water is discovered late in season when temps are above 80 but not yet 90 can empty and fill process be done over night and not risk pool damage? or what is best to do if its too hot to drain and fill but the water is confirmed "old". is there any to prolong life of water till colder months?
I'm a firm believer that once the outside air temp surpasses 84 degrees (f) then you should wait til the overall temp goes down a bit. I think you're still taking a risk in trying to drain and refill your pool over night even with a really powerful pump and unless you have a fire hose you won't come close to filling the pool that quickly especially since you'd be draining it and filling it in the same night. So you may have to just wait til the end of the season. FYI I've serviced pools (before I started my own business) that the CYA levels were over 300ppm and I managed to keep the chlorine levels ok til the end of the season.
@@PoolSchooler thank you very much
Cya.. cyunaric acid.. stabilizer and conditioner are all the same thing.
bsizzle Hill that is correct.
comment earlier...misspelled "hardness" i've drained most of the pool water... added a inline Ion prefill filter... still have high hardness
If your source water is hard then there's really nothing you can do about it. This video will help you understand about water hardness (typically due to calcium): ruclips.net/video/QC5ZYG27Z48/видео.html
I’m actually filling my pool now because the water was cloudy and the TDS was 4600. You reminded me about when I had a cyanuric acid problem. The levels were high. Like three times what they should be high. And the TDS was well over 4000. I drained and filled the pool. They told me to put in stabilizer. I hesitated and had the water tested a 2nd. They was so much residual cyanuric acid in my pool that was already at the mid range without me doing anything.
Yup. That's why I say ALWAYS test your water first when you refill it BEFORE you add any chemicals to see what you have to deal with. There is always some sort of chemical residual if you do a drain and refill. Even if you do an acid wash, you can have at the very least residual acid in the pool which will affect ph and alkalinity. Glad you tested the water before adding anything. Well done and thanks for the comment. Hope you subscribed.
How much water do you need to change? I have a float that adds water when the pool level gets low. New Water enters the pool about every 4-5 days so do I need to worry about changing my water?
Victoria Hesenflow yes you still do. The autofiller doesn’t add enough fresh water to offset the saturation on the whole of the pool. And when you do change your water out if change it all.
I just had my water tested and, because the TDS was 3700, the man told me to change my water. But my cyanuric acid is only 100. I've lived here for 7.5 years and haven't changed my water. I don't know when the previous resident changed it. Can I wait until the cyanuric acid gets higher? I've fought with algae for 2 months and put 30 pounds of chlorine in and it still isn't high in chlorine.
Consider this: Salt (salt pools) becomes part of the total dissolved solids TDS of pool water AND the recommended level of salt for a salt generator is between 2700 and 3400ppm. Then add the other Dissolved Solids and you can easily get to 3700 ppm in a pool and still not have to change the water. If you did at 3700ppm with a salt pool you'd be changing the water all the time.
CYA is the main indicator of needing to change the water and 100 is in the ideal range so, in my opinion, you're fine there. I don't even recommend changing water out til it gets near 300ppm. So I'd disagree with whomever is recommending you change your water. Not sure why you can't get your chlorine level up tho. Are you using algaecides to fight the algae? If so I'll bet ya a quarter that's the reason you can't get your chlorine levels up. Most algaecides eat up chlorine as they fight algae. (One of a few reasons I don't like algaecides).
With regards to algae I'd really recommend my video on Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them. I think it'll help with your lifelong batter with the stuff. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/MzGoK4Cd7tc/видео.html
Please watch that video and let me know if it helps.
I am sharing many of your videos with my husband. We bought our house almost 2 yrs ago. Last summer we had high cyanuric acid and we were told to drain our pool. We waited until spring and then opened our pool and we were told our chlorine levels were wayyyy too high and needed to drain our pool….. currently our chlorine level is leveling out. Our water has always been clear and beautiful. The only thing we had this year is a bit of yellow ish stuff on the underside of the ladder steps on the deep end. We are lost. I found your channel because we were looking for a vacuum and we’re getting the barracuda g3.
Anything I should know or do before adding water?
Well if you have a plaster pool and you've drained it to change the water that would be the time to do an acid wash if the plaster is looking dingle. ALSO the hot summer months are not the time to drain and refill your pool. The intense heat can crack and damage your plaster. So if you have a plaster pool wait til it gets cooler to drain and refill the pool. I'm doing a video on start up chemicals in new water in the next week so stay tuned.
Should I have chlorine tablets to a salt pool?
HVAC Mike under normal circumstances you shouldn’t have to. But there are times when you might have a lot of people in the pool like a pool party or you might need to supplement a little bit with a tablet or two. Or if you have low salt sometimes it won’t produce enough purifier. It’s really important to keep up on your salt levels and keep the self clean. It’s also important that your system runs long enough so the seller can do its job and convert the salt water to enough purifier.
Pool School thank you
Love your videos
I use total dissolved solids instead of CYA level.
what about the taylor pool test kit is it a good kit
Thomas Pease I don’t believe I’ve had experience with that product. Sorry. 😢
It is more accurate than most test strips and is the official testing system for USA Swimming but is more time consuming so I could see why pool pros would just use strips.
...I use the Fas-dpd one, and if you like feeling like a mad scientist for 20 minutes, it can be 20 to 30 percent more accurate. I'm not a pool pro, just a pool geek...
I use the Taylor K2006 test kit. It is more accurate. I prefer the 2006 over the 2005 because the dpd powder to test the chlorine with is more accurate than the liquid reagents to test the chlorine with.
Can I drain at night if temps are under 80 at night?
As long as you can get it filled before the daytime temps get over (around) 84.
I have an 18k gallon fiberglass pool. The pool store told me I can do a gradual drain and refill... meaning I put a pump in the pool for a couple hours and then put the hose in to put in fresh. Does this seem adequate? (I’ve heard horror stories of fiberglass pools popping out of the ground if the water level gets too low... I don’t know if this is true or not. Is it true?). I live in Seattle and have limited access for help. Also it has cartridges for cleaning. My cya was 129 which they said was fine but my tds was 2000. Thanks so much for your help!
I honestly don’t think you need to do a drain or refill of your pool. Total dissolved solids is not an indicator of needing to drain and refill your pool. Consider this, people who have salt pools need to keep their salt levels between 2700 and 3400 ppm. The salt in the pool is considered a total dissolved solid. So in order to even have your salt system functioning you have to have at least 2700 ppm of total dissolved solids in your pool. Add that to the typical total dissolved solids of regular minerals that are in your source water and all chlorine etc. that dissolves in the pool and your total dissolved solids can actually be pretty high. So my opinion is I would not listen to the pool supply company I am not a big fan of them for reasons like this. The only real reason that you should drain and refill your pool is if your CYA gets really high like between 250 and 300 ppm. Total dissolved solids is not a reason to drain and refill your pool
@@PoolSchooler awesome!! That’s exactly what I was hoping to hear!!!
What is your total chlorine is too high?
Usually if your total chlorine is high your free chlorine will be too. If that’s the case stop adding chlorine to your pool until the levels go back down to the proper range.
@@PoolSchooler thank you for you reply! I am struggling. I live in Chandler and I just bought a house with a pool and I am trying to figure it out. I got the water tested and they said the free and total chlorine is high total alkalinity it 30 ppm higher than it should be and the calcium hardness, phosphate and TDS are high. They told us to drain it. I've watched all your videos and I'm still not 100% sure that is what is needed. What's your opinion?
@@rockiie09 Based on what you said here I would highly recommend changing your pool water basically that means draining and refilling your pool with fresh water. Then you can get a fresh start but you want to do it before things start warming up now is actually a really good time. Then watch my video on start up chemicals and how to add them so that way you don’t overdose your pool right off the bat.
And once you have that done I would seriously recommend not always listening to a pool supply store, they’re going to try to sell you a ton of stuff you don’t need. I’m not sure if you really watched all of my videos there’s over 170 of them. But there are some that would be very helpful for you. Like testing your pool water, adding chlorine tablets to your pool, chlorine tablets how many does your pool need, how to adjust the pH of your pool, how to adjust the alkalinity of your pool water. I also have a video on total dissolved solids and calcium and I also have one on cyanuric acid and changing your pool water. I would suggest watching those once you drain and refill your pool with fresh water make sure it’s not coming from a source that has a water softener on it. Just a hose bib/spigot from your backyard since those are usually not tied to a soft water loop. And then watch my video on start up chemicals and how to add them and that will get you started off on the right foot
@@PoolSchooler right. Sorry I haven't watched all of them but the ones you mentioned as well as the ones pertaining to draining, refilling, testing the water... thanks for your help!!
@@rockiie09 Hope you'll subscribe. I've got an exciting announcement for all the DIY Pool Schooler's out there. You won't want to miss it.
How much should it cost to hire a professional to do it for an average sized pool?
David Newhouse out here in AZ it runs between $75 and $125 per month. The higher ones usually include chemicals and vacuum service and the lower range only charge you for chems used and usually don’t vac the pool. When it comes to chemicals, in Arizona, the pool companies that include chemicals have to charge enough so that they don’t lose money with the extreme amount of chemicals they get used in the summer out here because of heat evaporation and use. Personally, I prefer the companies that only charge for chemicals used because even though the cost might be higher in the summer, I think with some of my clients their most expensive bill in the summer is maybe $95 but in the winter months you hardly use any chemicals so that way my clients save a bit of money during those months.
It’s really important to keep in mind that if you’re going to get a pool service person or company make sure they are good and reliable. Too many pool service companies hire kids who skip pools or do really sloppy work. Or they’re so busy servicing pools each week that when there is a repair needed it takes them forever to get to it.
Pool School wow that sounds pretty good. I'm in Hawaii and a quality pool service average I'd say now is $160 chems included. Everything is more expensive here tho so I guess that sounds about right. Thanks man!
David Newhouse yeah. In Hawaii that’d sound pretty good. I’m going to be doing a video on “how I Service a pool each week” to show what I do each time I Service a pool each week. Hopefully that will help you to know if you’re getting your moneys worth with the company you hired. Aloha.
Pool School 🤙
Pool School o
What about TDS?
Ji dur I’ll be doing a video on total dissolves solids soon. Stay tuned
What is the average cost to have someone come drain & re-fill your pool?
Great Video by the way!!! It helps answers lots of my questions! Thanks
Susan Bonaker hard to give you an accurate number since prices can vary in different states. In AZ it usually runs around $150-200.
This is something most anyone can do for him/herself. The most important thing is to know when NOT to empty your pool - and that is after a heavy rainfall or if heavy rainfall is predicted during the period in which you intend to drain and refill your pool. If you live in an area with a high water table and have heavy rain while the pool is empty (or nearly so), it can literally pop out of the ground - a catastrophic event to say the least) - so plan carefully.
To to anyplace that rents tools like Home Depot and rent an industrial submersible pump - generally a 2" output pump will work just fine. Make sure to get as much hose from them as you'll need to run to wherever you intend to drain the water. Shut down your pump. Then, hook up the hose, run it to the drain, drop the pump into the deepest part of your pool and run it until your pool is as empty as you want it to be.
Once your pool is at the level you wish, shut off the submersible pump. Now, you'll just fill your pool using an outdoor spigot and a garden hose. It will fill more quickly if you have two spigots and hoses. While the pool is filling, return the pump to the rental center.
Once it fills, shut off the hoses and begin establishing your chemical balance.
Then all you will need to do is wait for the bill from the water company.
Did you change pool water in chandler az?
@@chuckschillingvideos
...and a phone call or email from your water utility about unusually high water usage (they are trying to alert you to a major leak, which is cool!)
Of course if you just use liquid bleach instead of powder & pucks, you’re not adding cyanuric acid every time you chlorinate.
Yep, if you stop adding CYA (mixed in with the tablets) it'll never get "saturated." Just add the chlorine with no additives and all is good.
I only use the pucks during the summer and minimally along with liquid chlorine. During the winter I only use liquid. I don't usually have an issue with CYA levels getting too high with this approach. I'm more likely to change my water due to TDS or hardness. I don't understand why so many people try to use the pucks exclusively, it just ends up causing issues. It's also surprising how many pool owners don't even understand what CYA is and why it needs to be managed correctly.
Unscented bleach is great and all...but it has stupid amounts of salt in it...sorry to break it to you....but if your using a chlorine....its either calcium based or salt based...try and use official liquid pool chlorine
my neighbour changes his pool water every year!!
stay up wow! That seems too often. If the pool is being maintained regularly it should not have to be done that often. My neighbor does that every year or two but only because he neglects his pool and then has to drain it and start over because it’s so far gone.
You left out the HOW...1/2, all, at main drain for hose suction, and re-filling tips. HALF interesting, half done
Coley Gwin my apologies but I don’t personally do drain and refills on pools and I recommend hiring a experienced pool repair person to do that.
Dude just tell me what Chems I need to put in after refill wtf?
Sorry for the long windedness. Much of the time I try to give enough information as to not be misunderstood. I apologize for being to "wordy" at times.
So far not really impressed with your long videos of little information..
Sorry for my perceived long windedness. I try to find a balance between giving enough information/explanation whilst still avoiding confusion and misunderstanding.
Why don’t you chill tf out, azzhole?! Or go to another video?!