Good video billy I think your right on the money..people don’t clean their pools often enough…it should be a daily chore. Balance the water, net ,brush..then clean filters or change every six months ..no problema
My pool water is clear but I have a gray stain on the pool floor. In July 2020, I had a TDS of 3,663. We drained 1/2 of the water, but we are on a well. The TDS in our well water is 1,784. So after the refill, we were at 2,676. This morning, 6/20/22, we are at 2,865 TDS. What I learned just recently, I can filter the well water prior to filling the pool. Anyway, we may need an acid wash to lift that stain. I like your video. Thanks so much.
Great series of videos. I'd like to point out that in this video and at least one other I saw, you mentioned things like TDS and CYA can slowly dilute when water is evaporated. I think this may be inaccurate as my understanding is that evaporating water leaves TDS and CYA behind so there would be no reduction in concentration from this action. Those molecules don't evaporate.
High cya, phosphates/nitrates are usually the biggest issues I deal with as a pool guy. If a pool does have high tds I do try to convince the customer to let us do a drain and refill lol
Glad it was helpful. Hope you’ll subscribe to and share my channel and also, please check out my website poolschooler.com for exclusive DIY pool maintenance tools and more direct and priority communication with me for your pool maintenance needs.
My friends always ask me if I have a pool and I say no because after servicing all my clients pools every week the last thing I want to do is have to take care of another pool (even my own). But every couple of years we get an above ground pool and in the AZ heat it lasts about 3 years and then we dispose of it. So it works for us.
Also in Arizona. Pool water (salt pool) is about 2 years old, as are the cartridge filters. Started having problems this year with the back pressure creeping up to the "clean" pressure (31 pisg) every 3-4 weeks. Pressure wash and only get a real fine power-like residue. Good for a while then right back. When back-pressure gets above 30 psig, the venturi skimmers don't have enough flow to properly work. I was wondering if high TDS could be clogging the filters? Also having trouble with chemical balance. Add chemicals with little results (based on test strips). (all valves open, pump replaced last year) As you know, our water has high TDS from the faucet. Have you tried the RO pool water filter system company, in lieu of water change? With our high TDS levels, they claim they can get the TDS level down to around 85ppm.
High TDS wouldn't necessarily clog the filter. But you may want to check to make sure your salt cell is clean and not gummed up with mineral deposits. I haven't tried a RO pool water system. You may also want to check your return valves to make sure they're open.
The water where I am has high calcium plus there is a lot of pollen and dust around. Sometimes it causes a slight clouding which is usually fixed by adding flocculant which renders the particles large enough to be trapped by the filter.
I’ve been having a lot of phosphate issues in a lot of my pools lately here in Florida.. we have had a lot of rainfall over the past 2-3 weeks several inches of rain. Crazy
Kenneth Smith wow that’s a lot. We don’t have much rain in AZ. But I can imagine that drops a huge amount of phosphates. Have you ever used Orendas PR 10,000? It’s been the best phosphate remover I’ve used for my pools in AZ.
Firstly, THANK YOU for your channel. Just had my water tested. Chlorine is ZERO. I've had an issue since opening 4 weeks ago with maintaining chlorine levels. The highest I've seen it is 1, but is usually 0 to 0 .5 ppm. I don't understand what's going on. I use 3" tabs with stabilizer through a chlorinator that's brand new. I installed this new one because of the low or no chlorine levels, but it's not made a difference. I have the valve on the chlorinator wide open and the tabs are dissolving. My water appears to be crystal clear...all other test levels have been great, with minor adjustments here and there. My TDS is at the top of the ideal range at 2500 ppm. pH is 7.6. Total Alk is 90. Calcium hardness is 200. Cyanuric acid is 40 No iron or copper. Phosphate level jumped from 100 last week to 500 current. Again, pool has been clear, no algae, no real issues other than not being able to maintain CL2. Zero free and Zero Total... Zero Total chlorine is surprising as well... In ground oval vinyl ... 18x36 approx 21,000 gallons.
You may need to use liquid chlorine to get your levels up and continue to use liquid chlorine to keep it that way. Alternatively, once your chlorine levels get better, you may need more chlorine tablets than what you currently are using.
I just had my water tested and, because the TDS was 3700, the man told me to change my water. But my cyanuric acid is only 100. I've lived here for 7.5 years and haven't changed my water. I don't know when the previous resident changed it. Can I wait until the cyanuric acid gets higher? I've fought with algae for 2 months and put 30 pounds of chlorine in and it still isn't high in chlorine.
TDS should NOT be an indicator as to when to change your water. Most salt pools recommend between 2800 and 3400ppm of salt (which is part of the TDS). So if you had a salt pool and had the salt at the high end of ideal (3400) and then included all the other Dissolved Solids in the pool, you'd for sure be above the 3700 that your pool is at. If you then changed the water out you'd have to 1) add more salt again wasting salt and money, 2) rapidly get to the 3700 again once you put new salt in, and 3) waste a ton of water and money with the new water. NO I completely disagree with whomever told you to change your water. See my response to your comment on my CYA video. Briefly: if you're using algaecides then that's what's probably burning through your chlorine as most algaecides eat up chlorine like crazy. AND watch my video on Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them: ruclips.net/video/MzGoK4Cd7tc/видео.html
@@tomrobertson6747 OK, so looking back at your original comment, you said it's been 7 1/2 years since you last changed your water, that could be the problem. Remember in my video on that subject (here's a link): Changing your Pool Water: When and Why: ruclips.net/video/ypCS5Bch0g0/видео.html Please watch it. CYA is one indicator and the other is how long it's been since you last changed your water. at 7.5 years, you're due no matter how the CYA is and the fact that you can't keep chlorine levels up is a sign of that.
I have heard of it but have no personal experience with it. Watch these two videos regarding algae and hopefully they'll help: Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them: ruclips.net/video/MzGoK4Cd7tc/видео.html How I Cleared My Green Pool: ruclips.net/video/XY-BAdBY0zI/видео.html
Phosphate level is 1000 and TDS is 4000. Seriously considering a complete drain and hiring a professional as you recommended. Water is 4 years old and looks great, but it does taste salty. I don’t like that.
You can get your phosphates down by using a good phosphate remover. My favorite (and I use it exclusively) is Orenda Technologies PR 10,000. 4000 TDS is pretty high. BUT before you drain and refill your pool test your water source (take a sample of your water from your hose and have it tested). If your TDS are high there then that's just what your water has in it. And if you drain and refill it you'll only end up with the same or similar reading. The best indicator is your CYA levels. If they're higher than 200-300 ppm then that would be the reason for draining and refilling your water. I did a video on this. Here's a link: CYA What You Need To Know: ruclips.net/video/_z55SBsjadw/видео.html This one would be helpful too: Changing Your Pool Water, Why and When: ruclips.net/video/ypCS5Bch0g0/видео.html Hope these help. But please do watch them BEFORE you use all that water.
yes. There's. ton of differing opinions on what is high TDS. I've seen people say as little as 250 and as much as 5000 is "high". So who is right. I wouldn't worry too much about the TDS. That's not a good indicator of when you need to change your pool water. CYA is. Once your CYA (Cyanuric Acid) levels get above 300ppm it may be time to replace the water.
We took out 2/3 of pool water and refilled it however, our CYA level is too high still. We were told that the CYA stays at the top of the water and we drained it from the bottom. Help?
Hmmm. The cya is in ALL the water not just the surface water. And when you dilute the water at all (especially 2/3 of the pool) it should have an effect of reducing the CYA level. The only thing I can think of is that your CYA was so high to begin with it didn't do any good just replacing 2/3 but it does seem strange.
@@krbourn Why is that a problem..? I use the 3" tabs with stabilizer through a chlorinator. I've had an issue since opening 4 weeks ago with maintaining chlorine levels...
Thank you for all the information. It’s literally putting food on my table as a pool tech. God bless…
So glad to hear that. Thank you for commenting .
Good video billy I think your right on the money..people don’t clean their pools often enough…it should be a daily chore.
Balance the water, net ,brush..then clean filters or change every six months ..no problema
My pool water is clear but I have a gray stain on the pool floor. In July 2020, I had a TDS of 3,663. We drained 1/2 of the water, but we are on a well. The TDS in our well water is 1,784. So after the refill, we were at 2,676. This morning, 6/20/22, we are at 2,865 TDS. What I learned just recently, I can filter the well water prior to filling the pool. Anyway, we may need an acid wash to lift that stain. I like your video. Thanks so much.
Great series of videos. I'd like to point out that in this video and at least one other I saw, you mentioned things like TDS and CYA can slowly dilute when water is evaporated. I think this may be inaccurate as my understanding is that evaporating water leaves TDS and CYA behind so there would be no reduction in concentration from this action. Those molecules don't evaporate.
High cya, phosphates/nitrates are usually the biggest issues I deal with as a pool guy. If a pool does have high tds I do try to convince the customer to let us do a drain and refill lol
"I do try to convince the customer to let us do a drain and refill" says Kevin from SALES. lol
Great video thanks
Glad it was helpful. Hope you’ll subscribe to and share my channel and also, please check out my website poolschooler.com for exclusive DIY pool maintenance tools and more direct and priority communication with me for your pool maintenance needs.
is that your house? No pool! love it!
My friends always ask me if I have a pool and I say no because after servicing all my clients pools every week the last thing I want to do is have to take care of another pool (even my own). But every couple of years we get an above ground pool and in the AZ heat it lasts about 3 years and then we dispose of it. So it works for us.
Also in Arizona. Pool water (salt pool) is about 2 years old, as are the cartridge filters. Started having problems this year with the back pressure creeping up to the "clean" pressure (31 pisg) every 3-4 weeks. Pressure wash and only get a real fine power-like residue. Good for a while then right back. When back-pressure gets above 30 psig, the venturi skimmers don't have enough flow to properly work. I was wondering if high TDS could be clogging the filters? Also having trouble with chemical balance. Add chemicals with little results (based on test strips). (all valves open, pump replaced last year) As you know, our water has high TDS from the faucet. Have you tried the RO pool water filter system company, in lieu of water change? With our high TDS levels, they claim they can get the TDS level down to around 85ppm.
High TDS wouldn't necessarily clog the filter. But you may want to check to make sure your salt cell is clean and not gummed up with mineral deposits.
I haven't tried a RO pool water system. You may also want to check your return valves to make sure they're open.
The water where I am has high calcium plus there is a lot of pollen and dust around. Sometimes it causes a slight clouding which is usually fixed by adding flocculant which renders the particles large enough to be trapped by the filter.
Algarvegarden that’s good to know.
I’ve been having a lot of phosphate issues in a lot of my pools lately here in Florida.. we have had a lot of rainfall over the past 2-3 weeks several inches of rain. Crazy
Kenneth Smith wow that’s a lot. We don’t have much rain in AZ. But I can imagine that drops a huge amount of phosphates. Have you ever used Orendas PR 10,000? It’s been the best phosphate remover I’ve used for my pools in AZ.
Pool School I have not tried that brand yet, I use new wave brand I get from my supply house it’s pretty cheap $13 a quart.. and works really well..
Kenneth Smith wow that’s a great price.
Pool School I actually forgot to save some for my pool it’s a phosphate pit now..lol nice and lime green water.
Kenneth Smith oh man. Bummer.
I only have a 4, 787 gallon pool. I think that could have impact on TDS. We normally change out water yearly.
Could be. But it could be the water source. TDS are really bot as important as cya levels. Check out my video on that.
Firstly, THANK YOU for your channel.
Just had my water tested. Chlorine is ZERO. I've had an issue since opening 4 weeks ago with maintaining chlorine levels. The highest I've seen it is 1, but is usually 0 to 0 .5 ppm. I don't understand what's going on. I use 3" tabs with stabilizer through a chlorinator that's brand new. I installed this new one because of the low or no chlorine levels, but it's not made a difference. I have the valve on the chlorinator wide open and the tabs are dissolving. My water appears to be crystal clear...all other test levels have been great, with minor adjustments here and there. My TDS is at the top of the ideal range at 2500 ppm. pH is 7.6. Total Alk is 90. Calcium hardness is 200. Cyanuric acid is 40
No iron or copper. Phosphate level jumped from 100 last week to 500 current. Again, pool has been clear, no algae, no real issues other than not being able to maintain CL2. Zero free and Zero Total... Zero Total chlorine is surprising as well...
In ground oval vinyl ... 18x36 approx 21,000 gallons.
You may need to use liquid chlorine to get your levels up and continue to use liquid chlorine to keep it that way. Alternatively, once your chlorine levels get better, you may need more chlorine tablets than what you currently are using.
I just had my water tested and, because the TDS was 3700, the man told me to change my water. But my cyanuric acid is only 100. I've lived here for 7.5 years and haven't changed my water. I don't know when the previous resident changed it. Can I wait until the cyanuric acid gets higher? I've fought with algae for 2 months and put 30 pounds of chlorine in and it still isn't high in chlorine.
TDS should NOT be an indicator as to when to change your water. Most salt pools recommend between 2800 and 3400ppm of salt (which is part of the TDS). So if you had a salt pool and had the salt at the high end of ideal (3400) and then included all the other Dissolved Solids in the pool, you'd for sure be above the 3700 that your pool is at. If you then changed the water out you'd have to 1) add more salt again wasting salt and money, 2) rapidly get to the 3700 again once you put new salt in, and 3) waste a ton of water and money with the new water.
NO I completely disagree with whomever told you to change your water. See my response to your comment on my CYA video.
Briefly: if you're using algaecides then that's what's probably burning through your chlorine as most algaecides eat up chlorine like crazy. AND watch my video on Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them: ruclips.net/video/MzGoK4Cd7tc/видео.html
@@PoolSchooler Besides a little phosphate killer, I'm not using algaecides. I thought chlorine would do that.
@@tomrobertson6747 OK, so looking back at your original comment, you said it's been 7 1/2 years since you last changed your water, that could be the problem. Remember in my video on that subject (here's a link): Changing your Pool Water: When and Why: ruclips.net/video/ypCS5Bch0g0/видео.html Please watch it.
CYA is one indicator and the other is how long it's been since you last changed your water. at 7.5 years, you're due no matter how the CYA is and the fact that you can't keep chlorine levels up is a sign of that.
Are you familiar with ozone water purification system for pools? We need HELP getting rid of algae-- we have new liner, new pump and motor
I have heard of it but have no personal experience with it. Watch these two videos regarding algae and hopefully they'll help:
Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them: ruclips.net/video/MzGoK4Cd7tc/видео.html
How I Cleared My Green Pool: ruclips.net/video/XY-BAdBY0zI/видео.html
Phosphate level is 1000 and TDS is 4000. Seriously considering a complete drain and hiring a professional as you recommended. Water is 4 years old and looks great, but it does taste salty. I don’t like that.
You can get your phosphates down by using a good phosphate remover. My favorite (and I use it exclusively) is Orenda Technologies PR 10,000. 4000 TDS is pretty high. BUT before you drain and refill your pool test your water source (take a sample of your water from your hose and have it tested). If your TDS are high there then that's just what your water has in it. And if you drain and refill it you'll only end up with the same or similar reading. The best indicator is your CYA levels. If they're higher than 200-300 ppm then that would be the reason for draining and refilling your water. I did a video on this. Here's a link: CYA What You Need To Know: ruclips.net/video/_z55SBsjadw/видео.html
This one would be helpful too: Changing Your Pool Water, Why and When: ruclips.net/video/ypCS5Bch0g0/видео.html
Hope these help. But please do watch them BEFORE you use all that water.
Is 1900 tds Ok on a sand filter fresh water pool
yes. There's. ton of differing opinions on what is high TDS. I've seen people say as little as 250 and as much as 5000 is "high". So who is right. I wouldn't worry too much about the TDS. That's not a good indicator of when you need to change your pool water. CYA is. Once your CYA (Cyanuric Acid) levels get above 300ppm it may be time to replace the water.
We took out 2/3 of pool water and refilled it however, our CYA level is too high still. We were told that the CYA stays at the top of the water and we drained it from the bottom. Help?
Hmmm. The cya is in ALL the water not just the surface water. And when you dilute the water at all (especially 2/3 of the pool) it should have an effect of reducing the CYA level. The only thing I can think of is that your CYA was so high to begin with it didn't do any good just replacing 2/3 but it does seem strange.
Check if your using Chlorine pucks with conditioner that is a problem
@@krbourn Why is that a problem..? I use the 3" tabs with stabilizer through a chlorinator. I've had an issue since opening 4 weeks ago with maintaining chlorine levels...
Run you pool filters longer and clean your filters every six months…net your pool daily check ur chemicals daily for a month
@@JoHa-dl5zr don’t use the pucks they have the stabilizer that raises cya..
1500 is considered not safe water just went through this with my well