I have a sidewinder x1 and added the bltouch v3.1 to the printer I followed this guide and realized the the 3 prong connector with the brown wires need to be installed in the opposite orientation than shown in this guide if that helps anyone out who is having issues. Thank you by the way for this guide it definitely has alot of good information in it.
Ditto. Reversed brown wire orientation and everything worked great. Worth noting that my MKS Gen L board had many differences from the diagram, primarily color of sockets. Also, blobs of hot glue everywhere, that had to carefully be removed in some cases. After opening this thing up, I am inclined to move all of the internals to a separate box/console like the Creality machines.
I have artillery sidewinder V4 and 3.1 bltouch, and I have to install it the Yellow/red/brown wire in the opposite way, so it works (Y) -Thanks for sharing this tutorial.
I also have the Sidewinder v4 and 3.1 bltouch. Pressing home causes the bltouch to smash into the bed after switching the cables. Any ideas why this is happening?
I didnt have the 4 pin connector so I soldered the wires to the solder joints instead. Also, the brown connector is installed incorrectly at 7:30 and correctly @ 10:45. However, if you have capacitors blocking then you can instead invert the yellow and brown wires instead of flipping the connector on the board on the bottom of the machine. I had trouble flashing in the software, it was reading RAMPS. I had to update the driver for the device in windows 10 device manager. Hope this helps someone
I found the right connectors for this mod! For anyone that wants the 4 pin connector for this mod, search for this: DIKAVS Break Away Headers 2.54 mm Male Pin Header Connector - 40-pin Male Long Centered (Pack of 10) The pins are long like the one in this video and they worked for me.
Thank you very much for your tutorial and the afford you put into it and especially the PDF file. I did this mod two days ago and after some test prints I can say, that it works excellent. Absolutely brilliant! The thing I like most, is the fact that you don't have to add any cables from the x-carrige to the board. Well done! Thanks a lot man!
Thanks to the OP for describing this mod! There are mixed messages in the chat below so just to clarify: I have a Sidewinder X1 V.4 and this mod works with the wiring set up as first described @7mins in (i.e., with the brown wire 3-pin cable on the motherboard having the silver bit pointed 'up' towards the capacitors). My board was litterally filled with hot glue everywhere, no chance of picking it out without first heating with a hot air gun. Be careful it quickly melts to a goo that runs everywhere! The provided firmware works OK but is now quite an old version. I tried first installing with a different and newer version (2.0.5.3) which installed OK but I was getting errors operating the BLTouch. I returned to the older version (provided with this mod) to get it functional but only later realised my wiring was incorrect and I'm guessing it would now actually work. I have not tried installing the newer Marlin version again though because I was just relieved to get the damn thing working at last! I will likely have another attempt later. For reference: I had cut off the plugs and shortened the wires from the BLTouch, soldering them to block of 4 pins from a length of 2.54mm pitch male PCB header pins. These are available anywhere. The soldered pin ends were protected with heatshrink tube and then the lot covered with a blob of hot glue, that offers the shortest length 'plug' which helps as space is tight. My mistake - using white heatshrink tube which led me to insert the 'plug' the wrong way around at the hot end! Don't do that, the BLTouch gets very hot but thankfully suffered no permanent damage. Just a load hassle before I realised the error I had made.
Thank you for sharing, your detailed instructions and setup files made it an easy mod. I have original BL-touch V3.1 I did not notice any flashing after I setup Z-offset.
Thank you for the instructions, I just got the artillery sidewinder V4 and Bltouch 3.1, everything is working, it's awesome, i printed a several parts using your PLA profile, now I'm about to venture into petg, not sure if this thread too old to be adding comments
Dear friend, would you share with me if you used .zip for Bltouch version 1.0 or 1.5 from the auther's website? And which version of Marlin did you use? I'm struggling because my artillery is V4 and Bltouch V3 and it's much newer than auther's hardware. Thank you.
@@AuBurn077 Sorry I can't help much, I gave the Sidewinder to a friend almost a year ago, I looked in my folder and I have both 1.0 and 1.5 so I don't remember which one I use, I vaguely remember having issues with 1.5
been a while not printing I had your mod on it and was working great just started making a few bits now and no issues at all and then had a problem with one of the prints I was doing and now the touch now will not stop and just crashes in to the bed I have changed ribbon cables new touch and wires new ribbon boards still does the exact same when levelling I have also tried other mod software but still the same. I am going to put the original end stop on and revert back and remove the touch to see if the issue is still there also all of the wiring has been checked a number of times ... I dont have a copy of your original files now as my original laptop got stolen and was on there...... GUTTED as no one will share or have it. But was great when working
Thanks for the step-by-step instructions, you really helped me! I solved the screen firmware problem with your help. Know at least 1 person you made a little happier)) Thank you!
Thank you sir- that was excellent! Only change I had to make was flipping wires 1 and 3 on the 3 wire plug to make it fit. On my board, there are capacitors in the way so I couldn't fit the plug in the way it needed to go.
I found the right connectors for this mod! For anyone that wants the 4 pin connector for this mod, search for this: DIKAVS Break Away Headers 2.54 mm Male Pin Header Connector - 40-pin Male Long Centered (Pack of 10) The pins are long like the one in this video and they worked for me.
Great info. I've had my Artillery for about a week now and just starting to tune it. I was digging on the EEPROM Disabled message and working through that.
Thanks for the amazing tutorial and instructions. I had problem with my SD card and it seems the LCD can not use a 32 GB card (or maybe it was formatted wrong) so I used a 4 GB one I had and it worked. also my BL touch was just blinking red and I had to switch the red yellow and brown cable around and then it worked perfectly.
Ran this upgrade on my Sidewinder. This video, PDF and site were the perfect guides to follow. I found I had to flip my mainboard cable 180 degree. I made the mistake of trying to flash LCD with 64 GB micro. Beware use 16GB or Less for your Micro. Spent hours trying to diagnose an issue that turned out to just be Micro size.
Great Vid, very happy about the use of the LED plug for the wire up!. I did notice in the PDF that the plugs layout on the main board did not match the plug orientation as in the vid. I followed the Vid and also flipped the plug to be Brown/orange/yellow like others have with BLTouch 3.1v. Base profile is pretty good and will only need a few tweaks, big THANK YOU! for the firmware hex and display package that saved me a ton of time on compiling my own.
Hey David, glad it helped and many thanks for taking the time to reply. I should be releasing a new Marlin version in the next few weeks, just an updated version to keep inline with the current release.
@@Waggster First off, thanks for this great mod! In relation to Marlin, I was just about to ask if you're going to update Marlin to the current 2.0.2 version sometime soon. I haven't received my X1 yet, but want to be ready for when it arrives! Also, it might be a good idea to provide the individual config files that you've modified so we can compile newer versions ourselves. Are you modifying any files other than Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h? Cheers!
@@FernandoAlvesJr thanks for your comments. The source is already included in the download in the expert folder so you should have everything you need. It's been a while since I did it but I may of altered the pins file too. I will be releasing a update when I do the Genius bltouch howto video.. :)
I have artillery sidewinder V4 and 3.1 bltouch, I had no problem with the install and I thank you very much, But I was wondering how to enable high speed probing, I used the hex file for the install and was hoping to, NOT have to re flash the firmware to accomplish this...THX
Thank you sir, I followed along and it was an easy install. Only issue I had is that my laptop would not install the drivers for the main board, so I hooked it up to my desktop and the firmware installed without issue. Getting perfect first layers!
Thank you for this tutorial! I did this on my Sidewinder X1, with a 3D Touch sensor, and also swapped the main board for a Duet2. The only problem that occurred then: The 3D Touch would always go through a self-test when the 24V part fan started. I solved this by soldering a 220uF electrolytic capacitor to the repurposed +3.3V and GND pins of the PCB (where I plugged in the 3D Touch sensor).
Thank you. Omfg thank you. Only one thing was different in my particular setup. I had to flip the brown wire to the motherboard. I did it the same way as the video but the bltouch just flashed and didn't self test. After flipping that wire everything worked perfectly. On another note, my motherboard is slightly different and not as color coded.
Hey, Thank you for the extensive guide. Maybe you could include how and where to plug in the Mainboard cooling fan as I rather watched out for not ripping it off during opening the case instead of checking where it was actually plugged in. Wasn't able to find the right location until now.
If anyone else ever runs into that problem: The mainboard cooling fan is plugged into the bottom right corner socket (2 pins only), which is white and has the matching slots for the fan cable connector. This location description applies when the printer lies on its left side, which means that the mainboard is on the top.
Thanks for the Guide, but I noticed after doing this process the noise level of the motors increased significantly. About 8-10 decibels higher depending on which part of the printing process it is on, I have an X1 v4, has anyone else had this happen?
Hello, first of all, great work. worked great. Instructions top bracket top. Now I have printed and installed a new air duct with a BLT holder. Now I have the problem that the BLT leaves the bed at the third measuring point and the process is aborted. Does the mod only work with one bracket? Or you can adjust the travel path so that it hits the third point at the LVL on the bed and does not go a few centimeters too far over the end of the bed and so the journey ends in nothing. I haven't been around for long and I need some help with it. Please keep it up and thank you for your work.
Hi, you will need to alter the z probe offset in the firmware so it knows where the probe is and doesn't go off the bed. This is in the main board firmware not the screen. Its about halfway down the configuration.h file from memory.
My sensor has been nothing short of a nightmare of installation. I wish my install had gone this easily. Upon flashing the tft all I see is a screen that says 'booting' and never changes and the BL touch constantly just gives the slow red flash of a self test fail. :( I do love this walk though and the detail that went into it.
Thanks for your amazing effort! Edit 2/9/2020 I have this working on the MKS SGen L 32 bit board! I had to use the P1 servo for the BL-Touch as marked on the SGen_L 32 bit board. Additionally, I had to disconnect the original Z-Axis home switch and place the BL-Touch (black wire after Waggster Mod) on the signal pin of the Z- connector. My original main board failed, and thinking the MKS SGen L 32 bit board was more-or-less a drop in replacement I picked one up for my X1. Long story short - not that easy... most of the effort was figuring out how to compile and load Marlin via the SD card. My last issue is figuring out where to plug in the BL-Touch wires on this board. I have a Servo 2 inputs, but wondered if I will need to define something else in Marlin to make this work. Any suggestions?
Fantastic video and guide. Just have one question, in the PDF it appears the brown wires are inverted 180 degrees from what the video shows, and also are installed on the 3rd row of pins not the 4th. Would just like to confirm which is correct. I will assume the video is correct and the PDF is not. The PDF does say to use the 4th row of pins. Mostly wondering about the orientation of the plug. For now I will do it just like shown in the video and see how I get on.
Hey Jay, thanks for the kind comments. It's the fourth row as in the video and my connector went as shown.. BUT others have had to swap it around to get it to work correctly. Its the center pin that's positive so you won't cause any damage if its the wrong way around to start with.. So if it doesn't work first time, just rotate it 180 degrees :-) Good luck and let me know how you get on. Steve
In case anyone is wondering, for my printer anyway, the silver contact side of the plug needed to be towards the black wire, not away from it as shown in the video. And it does go on the 4th row of pins.
Hello to the X1 V.4 owner ! Please tell me, did you you wire it as explained in this video (Yellow/orange/brown/white) or as some comments suggested (Brown/Orange/Yellow/White) in order to make it works ? Also did you flashed the original files from this video or a later version ? Best regards,
Where can I find a proper guide for setting up Marlin 2.0 for BL touch on the X1 ? Im using an SKR1.3 with Marlin 2.0 on my X1, and I need to be able to set up my own firmware instead of using the pre-made ones. I cant use other guides as this setup does not use the Zmin function of the BLtouch and I can find no other guides using a seperate Zmin with the Bltouch plugged into the Zmax pin.
I have just completed this mod, however, when I do the z axis alignment, the nozzle crashes into tge bed. I can't figure out what I've done wrong. I'm using a 3d touch and have followed the instructions to the letter. Any ideas?
18:25 (Personal Note may not accurate.) -Reset EPROM -Start Z-Offest. -Use paper to calibrate, after finished press up for two times. -Go Prusa Slicer, import Bltouch configuration.(24:00) -Nozzle too high moves down, too low moves up.
Hi, where do you get the 4 pin connector? I bought some from amazon but the pins are shorter than the one in the video. Is there a specific model number for the 4 pin connector?
I found the right connectors for this mod! For anyone that wants the 4 pin connector for this mod, search for this: DIKAVS Break Away Headers 2.54 mm Male Pin Header Connector - 40-pin Male Long Centered (Pack of 10) The pins are long like the one in this video and they worked for me.
at 7:22 you say to mount the 3 brown wire with the silver pins facing up but in the PDF there facing down which one is it? you cant have the 3 brown wires facing up because there is a resistor in the way?
Its as the video as you see that working, it does however fit both ways. Also depending which version you have it does need to be flipped the other way. The good news is its the center pin thats positive so you won't do any damage if its the wrong way, it just won't work.
@@Waggster so if I have the 3 brown wires with the silver pins facing down it will still work because I really cant mount it the other way because the resistor is in the way the only way around that is if I cut the corner off the connector?
i have been fighting this for a couple weeks now, my z wont home. Goes up BLtouch cycles the tip then faults. Also ran gcode for testing the bltouch and it is working properly. I understand that going up is part of the program, but i cant get it to home so i can set the z offset.
What if the bed is not correctly leveled before doing this process? Will the bltouch detect it? Or the bed needs to be perfect leveled before installing bltouch?
I'm looking for help. I did everything like the author said. I leveled the bed with auto bed level, reached perfect z height with babystep. But when I start a new print right after it, z height is reset and I gotta babystep it again. That way I can't get perfect 1st layer. What did I miss?
I am finally getting this done. My BLTouch and M3's should be here this week. I am gathering the requirements.. it says 2 mounting screws.. What size and length would that be?
@Waggster Hello, what an excellent idea to fit the bltouch on the LED instead of having cable ribbon on cable ribbon. I wanted to apply your method and struggled a bit to identify the wires to reposition. I managed to fit the 3-wire but lo and behold: the third pin on which I should fit the single black wire on the motherboard is missing (there are only two pins instead of 3)! I blame Murphy! I have a sidewinder version 5. Is there an alternative position? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Hi, excellent tutorial, super easy to follow. I have a question about the Reset EEPROM button - does it only need to be pressed once at the start of the installation, or does it need to be reset each time you do a Start Z Offset? Also, do you know if the Reset EEPROM will delete the EEPROM settings from a PID tune? Thanks!
hi thx for a great guide. have you got the problem that the bltouch does not trigger when hitting the bed durring a home process. mine just slams into the bed. my sidewinder is the newest so i gees it is v4
Thank you for the video, I have been trying to do this on my version 3 sidewinder x1. We did everything as instructed but the touchscreen isn't responding and its not reading any temperature. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Addendum: With the original cable (3Pin and 2Pin), i.e. with GND assignment at Zmax, everything works perfectly. But I only have 4 lines on the LED port ...
My Bl-touch doesnt work with this firmware.The pin gets out and in 3 times and than the display shows an error. Than the Bl-touch again releases the pin 3 times and than nothing... Did somebody have the same problem? I used the v1.5 and changed only invert the stepper direction.
Hi there. After updating i have a strange issue with the latest Marlin fw. When it homes in the center the extruder hits the build plate and keep on going down. I have to switch it off to make it stop
I don't have power to the bltouch. I have it set up right but if not getting any electricity. I tested with a oscilloscope and plugged the led back and they didn't turn on either. What am I doing wrong?
Hey there, I have a V4 Sidewinder and am running into issues with my LCD. Essentially I cannot get it to flash - I unplugged the LCD ribbon before uploading the firmware - uploaded firmware - reattached LCD - unplugged USB - and have the necessary files on a micro and normal usb - tried both one variants - no matter what, I cant get the LCD to flash and bootup with the new firmware - any input? All my files are in the root of the folder and I have it reading from the appropriate source on the printer.
Make sure your microsd card is under 16gb and formatted as fat32. You can not update via usb. Just follow the video and you should be okay. Let me know how you get on. Thanks Steve
Hi Steve, cheers for your work. Have you tried g34 z stepper auto align? What I'm getting at is can I just uncomment it in your firmware? Or have you not adjusted any of the values?
Thank you Steve. This was the first upgrade to my machine and your video helped me get through it. I'm now going to upgrade to a TFT35 screen and and a SKR 1.4 Turbo. The board looks pretty much the same, would hooking all cables up exactly the same and your 2.0.2 Marlin file keep the BLtouch working? I'll need a different flash for the TFT35 I'm guessing too. Thank you again, Subscribed.
Hey Dale, the 1.4 is a 32-bit board and you will also need to redo the firmware for it, it's not just a straight swap over I don't think. Yes, 35TFT is different again so you will need to edit all the icons/settings for this also. I don't think it would bring many benefits being honest adding both of these. I would recommend a 32bit board for a delta due to all the calculations needed but not a cartesian (X-1) type printer as the 8-bit does fine. I will try and help if you want to go down this route but I have limited knowledge on this..
@@Waggster Thanks Steve! I am thinking of leaving the board alone for the moment and just updating to the TFT35 so i can do filament changes from Prucsa or Cura which was my initial goal. Would you happen to have some suggestions or files that i would need? I'm used your recent 2.0.2 Merlin on the board so i'm thinking i would only have to update the TFT35?
@@smashby I don't sorry I've never played with them. Is it just a case you need a resume button? So it pauses then gives you time to change the filament.. then you press continue or resume? You can have a button on the extra menu when printing that sends gcode to the board. not sure what gcode you need at the moment but it might just be possible with the stock screen
@@Waggster I was looking to use the pause at height function in Cura or Prusaslicer. My basic understanding is it creates an M600 code which pauses the print, homes the nozzle to the very front and waits for you to do a filament change without having to wait for the perfect moment to hit pause. Once done, there is a resume button and it carries on as normal. Thank you very much for your responses, i was hoping you had some experience with the TFT35 screen as there seems to be a lot of people doing it but not a lot of how to's for new folks like me to assist in a walk through. Your video tutorial was so clear and well explained for the BLTouch, thank you for sharing.
Hey Waggster, Thank you very much for the video in Malaysia, the only BL touch available is V3.1, what I wonder is does it matter which version of BL touch is used?
Hi i have a problem when i press home at i come to the mittel it rases a bit and goes in error :stop called because of bltouch error i have black from probe in Z- is white not used
I know he says that the 2.0 firmware is "recommended" but I'd like to qualify this by saying I wouldn't recommend it without a new 32 bit board for the v4 (although I have not personally tried this yet). The 2.0 firmware caused my machine to shake violently. I thought it was scraping the bed, but I couldn't find any scratches. I looked at all kinds of potential hardware issues and couldn't figure out what was causing it. I stumbled on a post that mentioned issues with newer firmware running with the stock board and sure enough, that was my problem. Apparently it just eats up too much cpu to operate correctly. I'm running a test print with the Marlin 1.19 BL Touch firmware and it's like it's a totally different machine (i.e. it's running properly now).
I have a mini diferential IR sensor but never found a good tutorial to give it a try. You made it so easy to follow that I am considering grabing a BLtouch and avoid the trouble. Funny that even before buying the printer I thought about using the led pins to add a ABL and keep the cable managment neat. Thx for sharing! Would u recommend triangleLab BLtouch knockoff? Also, any suggestions/tip for mini IR? Last but not least, what are ur thoughts on Artillery Genius? It comes ready for ABL and it is much cheaper.
Hiya, I tried a clone BLTouch to start with and it was forever dropping its pin and others have come to the same conclusion in that it's just worth paying the extra and going for an original. I have tried a couple of the IR sensors with a couple of other printers with different results. They tend to work great but you really need to watch your bed to make sure it has no text or markings on as the IR reflects differently. Also, in the end both the IR sensors that I had failed. The other option is looking at a Pinda probe, like the Prusa uses. You can get a three wire MK1 (used on the Prusa Mk2) that I do love but then you need a metal bed.. I've not seen much on the Genius to be honest, but it would need to be cheap for me to even consider it. If its + £260 then its worth just spending the extra to get the X1.. or even the new Prusa mini might be worth look at.
Thank you for your hard work I love this mod only problem is I recently upgraded to the hemera extruder but I want to keep the settings for the bltouch from your mod I was wanting to know if it was possible for you to send me the Marlin ini file or at least the configuration H for the bltouch so I can match the settings please
i have a odd problem, ive used this mod for a while now but when printing the probe randomly deploys and then errors out any fix would be helpfull, i have a sx1 with skr 1.4turbo
Did anyone else have issues with this? I feel like I'm the only one. I installed the sensor updated all the firmware. Probe seems to operate fine, yet every time I try to home it raises the gantry lowers the probe then just raises and lowers once or twice before erroring out. It never get's closer to the bed. I have manually moved it closer to the bed and got it to probe once or twice and even after hitting the bed it errors out?
I was able to install everything and flash the files. When i run G29 the bltouch comes down 3 times at each point and it has a probe grid of 8x8 i cant figure out why.
PDF is in the download file on 3duk. I got the 4 pin connector with my BLTouch kit, some people say they didn't get one, if you didn't then search for a long pin connector.
Hello! thanks for your help !! but there was a problem that could be solved and that is not in your description. When I plugged the wires into the extruder, the white next to the brown, the BLtouch began to make a strange noise, a tick and blinking, And it didn't work. It was only when I inverted the wires and put the yellow wire next to the white one, it started working. In the rest I followed all your instructions and everything was fine. once again thanks for your time and work !! (by the way i have the version 3.1 of the Bltouch)
Thank you so much for posting this!!!! I have the V4 Sidewinder and I was having the exact same issue. I inverted the wires and put yellow next to white and it started working. You saved me from going through the hassle of returning my BL Touch to Amazon, because I thought it was broken. Thanks again!
This is old and out of date so unless you travel back in time and find an old Sidewinder and out of date BLtouch it won't work on newer printers, the newest BL touch wiring is White/Black/Yellow/Brown/Blue, so if doing this mod as instructed, you are wiring what? White/Brown/Blue/Yellow? doesn't work. White/Blue/Brown/Yellow? I get a blue light and nothing else.
Thank you for your help!!! If I pause the printing from the tft and restart it, the extruder does not work, the extruder only mobe for retraction. I have printing with Simplify and It does not happend, It seems to be the problem in PrusaSlicer. I hope any idea and if it happends to the rest of you. Thank you!!
@@andrewafrican Thanks. I was told, though, that for the marlin firmware flashing, you really do need prusa slicer. Is that so? Or are we talking about the same process now?
@@FuriousImp I used Prusa slicer to push through the new firmware because that is what the recipe called for and I wanted to avoid a flop. That said, it is my understanding that other slicers can be used to flash the firmware on a 3d printer. It should be possible to use Cura to do the mod.
If your BL touch is flashing rapidly with a dim red light, it means that you have the brown, red, yellow cable backwards. I had to reverse it from the instructions in this video. His PDF and video don't quite match each other. You can just reverse it where the BL touch connects to the LED pins.
Great instructions. Couldn't use my PCB proxy but I did get it working directly and with your firmware. Please add Bed PID to your firmware next pass. Tried to do that again and it didn't recognize the bed/extruder (-1). I can't think you run bed level every print. Our beds are really stable until you apply long durations of cold or heat to them. How do you (all) manage when to use G29 because I don't really care for that to be in my startup forever.
Where did you get your 4 pin male connectors from?I ordered some from amazon but they seemed slightly smaller in diameter and were not long enough to make good contact in either the bltouch plug or the rgb light plug.Thank you
The ones on amazon marked as "led connectors" are smaller and don't work well at all. I haven't found larger ones and I didn't want to wait for shipping so I built my own using some stiff aluminum single strand wire that was the right size.
I am having a major problem doing this on the Genius. The probe seems to be working fine, but when homing and doing the 2nd bump, the printer halts and needs a reset.... Any ideas? Did not find anything that worked online...
I have everything working except for the actual bltouch menu. It tells me "Error: EEPROM DSIABLED" and it will not do anything with the bltouch other then home. When i tried to flash earlier it wouldn't let me select a serial port and it flashed almost instantly. Any way you could help @Waggster.
Update: Tried the flash with my laptop and for some reason it was able to properly flash. Now the bltouch is working properly but the printer will not print anything.
I noticed that when the probe take measures (takes 25 probe) take them 20cm on the left side and 5cm from the right side.. so seems to be not centered and some layer on the fight side are not correct..
I have done the conversion, however, it is very difficult in parts. The mainboard is simply clogged with hot glue. You have to work like a dentist to get the connectors down and the new needed pins free. I also noticed that the new position of the 3 pin connector is very close to the next pins when you put the connector in the new position. I have insulated the connector on this side. The 1 pin connector is not very tight, you should stabilize it additionally with a cable tie into the right position. Well the rest worked very well (thanks Waggster). I will now try out whether this helps me in printing, because I had the suspicion that the Z position was slightly different each time again. I have one more question for Waggster. Is it possible to implement the configuration from the Arduino Configuration.h into other firmware types, if the hardware connection is correct? What I noticed after the upgrade from Nexus 1.1.9 to your version, the Z Stepper suddenly have a vibration that was not there before. Can this be?
I have installed V1.5 over V1.3. Sometimes (1 time out of 2) I have M999 error, or G28 don't work (X is not reseted correctly). Sometimes the BLTouch doesn't go down correctly. Before with V1.3 BLTouch works fine. I think I have X1 V4. Are there other cases like me ?
Ciao posso farti una domanda? Come mai ho installato il blthuc funziona tutto alla perfezione, però se faccio ripartire una stampa dopo un blekhout ,mi fa di nuovo gli azzeramenti in home e va contro il pezzo, x poi riprendere da dove era rimasto . Mi puoi aiutare x piacere.
If I click pause and continue afterwards, My extruder will reverse and instand of pushing Fillament in it will push it out. Could you fix that? Also motors are louder now.
Hi, I really appreciate your work and your videos. I have recently installed Bltouch on my Artillery Genius printer. I have a problem that is making me desperate, I cannot calibrate the Z with respect to this sensor, the extruder is always left over than it should. I have tried to set Z using babysteps and calibrate H offset and P offset. Is there any advice I should follow to solve this problem? All help is great. Thanks in advance!!!
Made the mod but have a few questions. Where can I get a copy of your input config bundle? and it seems my BLTouch does not click when doing the bed level test and the blue light is very dim. It is a real BLTouch bought direct from MatterHackers. and last it seems my prints will go no higher than 6.950 in the Z axis. Sorry if these have been asked and answered before, I read til my eyes got tired and thought I'd just ask the expert.
I found the right connectors for this mod! For anyone that wants the 4 pin connector for this mod, search for this: DIKAVS Break Away Headers 2.54 mm Male Pin Header Connector - 40-pin Male Long Centered (Pack of 10) The pins are long like the one in this video and they worked for me.
I have a sidewinder x1 and added the bltouch v3.1 to the printer I followed this guide and realized the the 3 prong connector with the brown wires need to be installed in the opposite orientation than shown in this guide if that helps anyone out who is having issues. Thank you by the way for this guide it definitely has alot of good information in it.
Thank's for the share! I had the same problem with mine, but inversing the wires fixed the problem. :D
Ditto. Reversed brown wire orientation and everything worked great. Worth noting that my MKS Gen L board had many differences from the diagram, primarily color of sockets. Also, blobs of hot glue everywhere, that had to carefully be removed in some cases. After opening this thing up, I am inclined to move all of the internals to a separate box/console like the Creality machines.
THANK YOU! I just spent 2 hours hitting my head against the wall trying to figure out why it wasn't working for me
THIS NEEDS TO BE PROMOTED TO THE DESCRIPTION. I seriously spent a week trying to debug this.
@@nechelly1218 do you know if thats the same with BLTouch V3.0?
I have artillery sidewinder V4 and 3.1 bltouch, and I have to install it the Yellow/red/brown wire in the opposite way, so it works (Y)
-Thanks for sharing this tutorial.
Sir, you are my hero! Thank you!
So instead yellow/orange/brown/white, it's brown/orange/yellow/white?
I also have the Sidewinder v4 and 3.1 bltouch. Pressing home causes the bltouch to smash into the bed after switching the cables. Any ideas why this is happening?
You're my hero thank you!
Solved my problem, thank you so much
I didnt have the 4 pin connector so I soldered the wires to the solder joints instead. Also, the brown connector is installed incorrectly at 7:30 and correctly @ 10:45. However, if you have capacitors blocking then you can instead invert the yellow and brown wires instead of flipping the connector on the board on the bottom of the machine. I had trouble flashing in the software, it was reading RAMPS. I had to update the driver for the device in windows 10 device manager. Hope this helps someone
I found the right connectors for this mod! For anyone that wants the 4 pin connector for this mod, search for this: DIKAVS Break Away Headers 2.54 mm Male Pin Header Connector - 40-pin Male Long Centered (Pack of 10)
The pins are long like the one in this video and they worked for me.
@@twosuns20 Thank you for this!!! I too have been searching for hours for this part.
which brown and yellow wires? please post a pic.
best BL touch installation video I've found thus far! great work. 👍
Thank you very much for your tutorial and the afford you put into it and especially the PDF file. I did this mod two days ago and after some test prints I can say, that it works excellent. Absolutely brilliant! The thing I like most, is the fact that you don't have to add any cables from the x-carrige to the board.
Well done! Thanks a lot man!
Thanks to the OP for describing this mod! There are mixed messages in the chat below so just to clarify: I have a Sidewinder X1 V.4 and this mod works with the wiring set up as first described @7mins in (i.e., with the brown wire 3-pin cable on the motherboard having the silver bit pointed 'up' towards the capacitors). My board was litterally filled with hot glue everywhere, no chance of picking it out without first heating with a hot air gun. Be careful it quickly melts to a goo that runs everywhere! The provided firmware works OK but is now quite an old version. I tried first installing with a different and newer version (2.0.5.3) which installed OK but I was getting errors operating the BLTouch. I returned to the older version (provided with this mod) to get it functional but only later realised my wiring was incorrect and I'm guessing it would now actually work. I have not tried installing the newer Marlin version again though because I was just relieved to get the damn thing working at last! I will likely have another attempt later.
For reference: I had cut off the plugs and shortened the wires from the BLTouch, soldering them to block of 4 pins from a length of 2.54mm pitch male PCB header pins. These are available anywhere. The soldered pin ends were protected with heatshrink tube and then the lot covered with a blob of hot glue, that offers the shortest length 'plug' which helps as space is tight. My mistake - using white heatshrink tube which led me to insert the 'plug' the wrong way around at the hot end! Don't do that, the BLTouch gets very hot but thankfully suffered no permanent damage. Just a load hassle before I realised the error I had made.
Thank you for sharing, your detailed instructions and setup files made it an easy mod. I have original BL-touch V3.1 I did not notice any flashing after I setup Z-offset.
Thank you for the instructions, I just got the artillery sidewinder V4 and Bltouch 3.1, everything is working, it's awesome, i printed a several parts using your PLA profile, now I'm about to venture into petg, not sure if this thread too old to be adding comments
Dear friend, would you share with me if you used .zip for Bltouch version 1.0 or 1.5 from the auther's website? And which version of Marlin did you use? I'm struggling because my artillery is V4 and Bltouch V3 and it's much newer than auther's hardware. Thank you.
@@AuBurn077 Sorry I can't help much, I gave the Sidewinder to a friend almost a year ago, I looked in my folder and I have both 1.0 and 1.5 so I don't remember which one I use, I vaguely remember having issues with 1.5
@@comfour77 thank you anyways. I used the newest version and it worked.
Thank you so much! This is probably the most detailed BL Touch tutorial and it answered all my questions. 👍👍👍
Great instruction! Thank you. You've given me the confidence to attempt this mod!!
hope it goes well Paul 👍
You made something difficult into child's play. Thank you for the amazing work in making this wonderful printer that much better!
Hi, many thanks for your kind comments
been a while not printing I had your mod on it and was working great just started making a few bits now and no issues at all and then had a problem with one of the prints I was doing and now the touch now will not stop and just crashes in to the bed I have changed ribbon cables new touch and wires new ribbon boards still does the exact same when levelling I have also tried other mod software but still the same. I am going to put the original end stop on and revert back and remove the touch to see if the issue is still there also all of the wiring has been checked a number of times ... I dont have a copy of your original files now as my original laptop got stolen and was on there...... GUTTED as no one will share or have it. But was great when working
@brianbird6705 I'm pretty sure I have it, I'll check soon, not sure best way to get it to you though
Hi That would be brilliant but im not sure either as of yet might do a temp email address thats if i can post one on here
@@brianbird6705 actually that would probably be the best way 😅
I will get that done many thanks for any help
@@spencerkapp8034
Thanks for the step-by-step instructions, you really helped me! I solved the screen firmware problem with your help. Know at least 1 person you made a little happier)) Thank you!
Thank you sir- that was excellent! Only change I had to make was flipping wires 1 and 3 on the 3 wire plug to make it fit. On my board, there are capacitors in the way so I couldn't fit the plug in the way it needed to go.
22:15 Hi, how can I get this configuration bundle? I didn't see that on the link and zips you gave me.
Thanks for the great video. I just got my sidewinder and need to add the bltouch and this helps a lot since I am new at 3d printing
I found the right connectors for this mod! For anyone that wants the 4 pin connector for this mod, search for this: DIKAVS Break Away Headers 2.54 mm Male Pin Header Connector - 40-pin Male Long Centered (Pack of 10)
The pins are long like the one in this video and they worked for me.
Great info. I've had my Artillery for about a week now and just starting to tune it. I was digging on the EEPROM Disabled message and working through that.
worked again on my third SX1, thanks for an awesome tutorial
where did u find the files????
i never saved mine from the start (stupid me) and need them again
@@hammerbugg I saved them on my computer
@@steel15172 do u know if they still exist on any sites? Would u be able to share them here through google drive?
Cheers Mark
@@hammerbugg give me your email and I can try to send them to you
I cant. RUclips keeps deleting the message 😢
Thanks for the amazing tutorial and instructions. I had problem with my SD card and it seems the LCD can not use a 32 GB card (or maybe it was formatted wrong) so I used a 4 GB one I had and it worked. also my BL touch was just blinking red and I had to switch the red yellow and brown cable around and then it worked perfectly.
Ran this upgrade on my Sidewinder. This video, PDF and site were the perfect guides to follow. I found I had to flip my mainboard cable 180 degree. I made the mistake of trying to flash LCD with 64 GB micro. Beware use 16GB or Less for your Micro. Spent hours trying to diagnose an issue that turned out to just be Micro size.
Great Vid, very happy about the use of the LED plug for the wire up!. I did notice in the PDF that the plugs layout on the main board did not match the plug orientation as in the vid. I followed the Vid and also flipped the plug to be Brown/orange/yellow like others have with BLTouch 3.1v. Base profile is pretty good and will only need a few tweaks, big THANK YOU! for the firmware hex and display package that saved me a ton of time on compiling my own.
Hey David, glad it helped and many thanks for taking the time to reply. I should be releasing a new Marlin version in the next few weeks, just an updated version to keep inline with the current release.
@@Waggster First off, thanks for this great mod! In relation to Marlin, I was just about to ask if you're going to update Marlin to the current 2.0.2 version sometime soon. I haven't received my X1 yet, but want to be ready for when it arrives! Also, it might be a good idea to provide the individual config files that you've modified so we can compile newer versions ourselves. Are you modifying any files other than Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h? Cheers!
@@FernandoAlvesJr thanks for your comments. The source is already included in the download in the expert folder so you should have everything you need. It's been a while since I did it but I may of altered the pins file too. I will be releasing a update when I do the Genius bltouch howto video.. :)
could you make an updated video to the 1.5v. I do not understand the rewiring part
I have artillery sidewinder V4 and 3.1 bltouch, I had no problem with the install and I thank you very much, But I was wondering how to enable high speed probing, I used the hex file for the install and was hoping to, NOT have to re flash the firmware to accomplish this...THX
did you figure it out?
@@SergeiBlokhin1 yup a lot of upgrades since then. 👍
Thank you for instructional video. How do you enable the High Speed mode? Thank you!
Hello, the website is not avalaible ?
Thank you sir, I followed along and it was an easy install.
Only issue I had is that my laptop would not install the drivers for the main board,
so I hooked it up to my desktop and the firmware installed without issue. Getting perfect first layers!
Thank you so much for this tutorial and all the effort you put into that. Worked for me like a charm on my V4 Sidewinder.
Thank you for this tutorial! I did this on my Sidewinder X1, with a 3D Touch sensor, and also swapped the main board for a Duet2. The only problem that occurred then: The 3D Touch would always go through a self-test when the 24V part fan started. I solved this by soldering a 220uF electrolytic capacitor to the repurposed +3.3V and GND pins of the PCB (where I plugged in the 3D Touch sensor).
Thank you. Omfg thank you. Only one thing was different in my particular setup. I had to flip the brown wire to the motherboard. I did it the same way as the video but the bltouch just flashed and didn't self test. After flipping that wire everything worked perfectly. On another note, my motherboard is slightly different and not as color coded.
Thank you so much :) Using version 1.5 of Waggster runs perfect :)
Hey,
Thank you for the extensive guide. Maybe you could include how and where to plug in the Mainboard cooling fan as I rather watched out for not ripping it off during opening the case instead of checking where it was actually plugged in. Wasn't able to find the right location until now.
If anyone else ever runs into that problem: The mainboard cooling fan is plugged into the bottom right corner socket (2 pins only), which is white and has the matching slots for the fan cable connector. This location description applies when the printer lies on its left side, which means that the mainboard is on the top.
Thanks for the Guide, but I noticed after doing this process the noise level of the motors increased significantly. About 8-10 decibels higher depending on which part of the printing process it is on, I have an X1 v4, has anyone else had this happen?
Hello, first of all, great work. worked great. Instructions top bracket top. Now I have printed and installed a new air duct with a BLT holder. Now I have the problem that the BLT leaves the bed at the third measuring point and the process is aborted.
Does the mod only work with one bracket? Or you can adjust the travel path so that it hits the third point at the LVL on the bed and does not go a few centimeters too far over the end of the bed and so the journey ends in nothing. I haven't been around for long and I need some help with it.
Please keep it up and thank you for your work.
Hi, you will need to alter the z probe offset in the firmware so it knows where the probe is and doesn't go off the bed. This is in the main board firmware not the screen. Its about halfway down the configuration.h file from memory.
@@Waggster Big Thx
My sensor has been nothing short of a nightmare of installation. I wish my install had gone this easily. Upon flashing the tft all I see is a screen that says 'booting' and never changes and the BL touch constantly just gives the slow red flash of a self test fail. :( I do love this walk though and the detail that went into it.
I finally got it working! Thank you so much for the super in depth video
Thanks for your amazing effort!
Edit 2/9/2020 I have this working on the MKS SGen L 32 bit board! I had to use the P1 servo for the BL-Touch as marked on the SGen_L 32 bit board. Additionally, I had to disconnect the original Z-Axis home switch and place the BL-Touch (black wire after Waggster Mod) on the signal pin of the Z- connector.
My original main board failed, and thinking the MKS SGen L 32 bit board was more-or-less a drop in replacement I picked one up for my X1. Long story short - not that easy... most of the effort was figuring out how to compile and load Marlin via the SD card.
My last issue is figuring out where to plug in the BL-Touch wires on this board. I have a Servo 2 inputs, but wondered if I will need to define something else in Marlin to make this work. Any suggestions?
Fantastic video and guide. Just have one question, in the PDF it appears the brown wires are inverted 180 degrees from what the video shows, and also are installed on the 3rd row of pins not the 4th. Would just like to confirm which is correct. I will assume the video is correct and the PDF is not. The PDF does say to use the 4th row of pins. Mostly wondering about the orientation of the plug. For now I will do it just like shown in the video and see how I get on.
Hey Jay, thanks for the kind comments. It's the fourth row as in the video and my connector went as shown.. BUT others have had to swap it around to get it to work correctly. Its the center pin that's positive so you won't cause any damage if its the wrong way around to start with.. So if it doesn't work first time, just rotate it 180 degrees :-) Good luck and let me know how you get on. Steve
In case anyone is wondering, for my printer anyway, the silver contact side of the plug needed to be towards the black wire, not away from it as shown in the video. And it does go on the 4th row of pins.
Hello to the X1 V.4 owner !
Please tell me, did you you wire it as explained in this video (Yellow/orange/brown/white) or as some comments suggested (Brown/Orange/Yellow/White) in order to make it works ?
Also did you flashed the original files from this video or a later version ?
Best regards,
Where can I find a proper guide for setting up Marlin 2.0 for BL touch on the X1 ? Im using an SKR1.3 with Marlin 2.0 on my X1, and I need to be able to set up my own firmware instead of using the pre-made ones.
I cant use other guides as this setup does not use the Zmin function of the BLtouch and I can find no other guides using a seperate Zmin with the Bltouch plugged into the Zmax pin.
I to would like to see a video on this.
I have just completed this mod, however, when I do the z axis alignment, the nozzle crashes into tge bed. I can't figure out what I've done wrong. I'm using a 3d touch and have followed the instructions to the letter. Any ideas?
ok, we found the problem. With the 3d touch, the machine must be on when using the calibration disc - well at least for me
@@jack6539 Mine in crashing when I home. Was your problem similar to this? How did you fix it?
18:25 (Personal Note may not accurate.)
-Reset EPROM
-Start Z-Offest.
-Use paper to calibrate, after finished press up for two times.
-Go Prusa Slicer, import Bltouch configuration.(24:00)
-Nozzle too high moves down, too low moves up.
and how do you save the offset?? if I reset the printer, I have to recalibrate the bltouch
Hi, where do you get the 4 pin connector? I bought some from amazon but the pins are shorter than the one in the video. Is there a specific model number for the 4 pin connector?
I found the right connectors for this mod! For anyone that wants the 4 pin connector for this mod, search for this: DIKAVS Break Away Headers 2.54 mm Male Pin Header Connector - 40-pin Male Long Centered (Pack of 10)
The pins are long like the one in this video and they worked for me.
at 7:22 you say to mount the 3 brown wire with the silver pins facing up but in the PDF there facing down which one is it? you cant have the 3 brown wires facing up because there is a resistor in the way?
Its as the video as you see that working, it does however fit both ways. Also depending which version you have it does need to be flipped the other way. The good news is its the center pin thats positive so you won't do any damage if its the wrong way, it just won't work.
@@Waggster so if I have the 3 brown wires with the silver pins facing down it will still work because I really cant mount it the other way because the resistor is in the way the only way around that is if I cut the corner off the connector?
@@Warhorse469 if you say it only fits one way then you have answered your own question. I didnt need to cut anything but mine would fit both ways.
i have been fighting this for a couple weeks now, my z wont home. Goes up BLtouch cycles the tip then faults. Also ran gcode for testing the bltouch and it is working properly. I understand that going up is part of the program, but i cant get it to home so i can set the z offset.
What if the bed is not correctly leveled before doing this process? Will the bltouch detect it? Or the bed needs to be perfect leveled before installing bltouch?
I'm looking for help. I did everything like the author said. I leveled the bed with auto bed level, reached perfect z height with babystep. But when I start a new print right after it, z height is reset and I gotta babystep it again. That way I can't get perfect 1st layer. What did I miss?
Where did you get the male pin adapter that you put in the bl touch to connect to the board?
I am finally getting this done. My BLTouch and M3's should be here this week. I am gathering the requirements.. it says 2 mounting screws.. What size and length would that be?
@Waggster Hello, what an excellent idea to fit the bltouch on the LED instead of having cable ribbon on cable ribbon. I wanted to apply your method and struggled a bit to identify the wires to reposition. I managed to fit the 3-wire but lo and behold: the third pin on which I should fit the single black wire on the motherboard is missing (there are only two pins instead of 3)! I blame Murphy! I have a sidewinder version 5. Is there an alternative position? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Hi, excellent tutorial, super easy to follow. I have a question about the Reset EEPROM button - does it only need to be pressed once at the start of the installation, or does it need to be reset each time you do a Start Z Offset? Also, do you know if the Reset EEPROM will delete the EEPROM settings from a PID tune? Thanks!
hi thx for a great guide. have you got the problem that the bltouch does not trigger when hitting the bed durring a home process. mine just slams into the bed. my sidewinder is the newest so i gees it is v4
Thank you for the video, I have been trying to do this on my version 3 sidewinder x1. We did everything as instructed but the touchscreen isn't responding and its not reading any temperature. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Addendum: With the original cable (3Pin and 2Pin), i.e. with GND assignment at Zmax, everything works perfectly. But I only have 4 lines on the LED port ...
My Bl-touch doesnt work with this firmware.The pin gets out and in 3 times and than the display shows an error. Than the Bl-touch again releases the pin 3 times and than nothing...
Did somebody have the same problem? I used the v1.5 and changed only invert the stepper direction.
I have a question why the black cable of the bl touch is not attached to ground?
where did you guys get the 4 pin connectors. the ones i ordered are way to short
They are called pin headers. The length of the pins can be adjusted by sliding them up or downwards.
Hey, great video! done this to two of my printers now.. Can you please add the M600 pause at height feature. My M0 or M600 is not working anymore.
Hi there. After updating i have a strange issue with the latest Marlin fw. When it homes in the center the extruder hits the build plate and keep on going down. I have to switch it off to make it stop
Hey. I looked at my internal led cables and they were all superglued together. I do not know what to do to get it away. Do you have any ideas?
its just hot glue, use a heatgun to soften it and remove
I just used scissors.
Why would you let the bed get cooled before shutting the printer down?
I don't have power to the bltouch. I have it set up right but if not getting any electricity. I tested with a oscilloscope and plugged the led back and they didn't turn on either. What am I doing wrong?
Hi all - i'm getting the issue of the BLtouch probe dropping during a print when the part cooling fan starts - is there a fix for this?
I can't figure this out. Flash firmware and lcd and lose all movement with my xyz.
Hey there, I have a V4 Sidewinder and am running into issues with my LCD. Essentially I cannot get it to flash - I unplugged the LCD ribbon before uploading the firmware - uploaded firmware - reattached LCD - unplugged USB - and have the necessary files on a micro and normal usb - tried both one variants - no matter what, I cant get the LCD to flash and bootup with the new firmware - any input? All my files are in the root of the folder and I have it reading from the appropriate source on the printer.
Make sure your microsd card is under 16gb and formatted as fat32. You can not update via usb. Just follow the video and you should be okay. Let me know how you get on. Thanks Steve
@@Waggster You are a legend. A smaller micro and a quick format solved my issue. Thanks for the fast response!
Where is the manual bed level option? It seems to be missing once i updated the firmware.
Hi Steve, cheers for your work. Have you tried g34 z stepper auto align? What I'm getting at is can I just uncomment it in your firmware? Or have you not adjusted any of the values?
Thank you Steve. This was the first upgrade to my machine and your video helped me get through it. I'm now going to upgrade to a TFT35 screen and and a SKR 1.4 Turbo. The board looks pretty much the same, would hooking all cables up exactly the same and your 2.0.2 Marlin file keep the BLtouch working? I'll need a different flash for the TFT35 I'm guessing too. Thank you again, Subscribed.
Hey Dale, the 1.4 is a 32-bit board and you will also need to redo the firmware for it, it's not just a straight swap over I don't think. Yes, 35TFT is different again so you will need to edit all the icons/settings for this also. I don't think it would bring many benefits being honest adding both of these. I would recommend a 32bit board for a delta due to all the calculations needed but not a cartesian (X-1) type printer as the 8-bit does fine. I will try and help if you want to go down this route but I have limited knowledge on this..
@@Waggster Thanks Steve! I am thinking of leaving the board alone for the moment and just updating to the TFT35 so i can do filament changes from Prucsa or Cura which was my initial goal. Would you happen to have some suggestions or files that i would need? I'm used your recent 2.0.2 Merlin on the board so i'm thinking i would only have to update the TFT35?
@@smashby I don't sorry I've never played with them. Is it just a case you need a resume button? So it pauses then gives you time to change the filament.. then you press continue or resume? You can have a button on the extra menu when printing that sends gcode to the board. not sure what gcode you need at the moment but it might just be possible with the stock screen
@@Waggster I was looking to use the pause at height function in Cura or Prusaslicer. My basic understanding is it creates an M600 code which pauses the print, homes the nozzle to the very front and waits for you to do a filament change without having to wait for the perfect moment to hit pause. Once done, there is a resume button and it carries on as normal. Thank you very much for your responses, i was hoping you had some experience with the TFT35 screen as there seems to be a lot of people doing it but not a lot of how to's for new folks like me to assist in a walk through. Your video tutorial was so clear and well explained for the BLTouch, thank you for sharing.
Hey Waggster, Thank you very much for the video in Malaysia, the only BL touch available is V3.1, what I wonder is does it matter which version of BL touch is used?
Hi i have a problem when i press home at i come to the mittel it rases a bit and goes in error :stop called because of bltouch error i have black from probe in Z- is white not used
I know he says that the 2.0 firmware is "recommended" but I'd like to qualify this by saying I wouldn't recommend it without a new 32 bit board for the v4 (although I have not personally tried this yet). The 2.0 firmware caused my machine to shake violently. I thought it was scraping the bed, but I couldn't find any scratches. I looked at all kinds of potential hardware issues and couldn't figure out what was causing it. I stumbled on a post that mentioned issues with newer firmware running with the stock board and sure enough, that was my problem. Apparently it just eats up too much cpu to operate correctly. I'm running a test print with the Marlin 1.19 BL Touch firmware and it's like it's a totally different machine (i.e. it's running properly now).
I have a mini diferential IR sensor but never found a good tutorial to give it a try. You made it so easy to follow that I am considering grabing a BLtouch and avoid the trouble. Funny that even before buying the printer I thought about using the led pins to add a ABL and keep the cable managment neat. Thx for sharing! Would u recommend triangleLab BLtouch knockoff? Also, any suggestions/tip for mini IR? Last but not least, what are ur thoughts on Artillery Genius? It comes ready for ABL and it is much cheaper.
Hiya, I tried a clone BLTouch to start with and it was forever dropping its pin and others have come to the same conclusion in that it's just worth paying the extra and going for an original. I have tried a couple of the IR sensors with a couple of other printers with different results. They tend to work great but you really need to watch your bed to make sure it has no text or markings on as the IR reflects differently. Also, in the end both the IR sensors that I had failed. The other option is looking at a Pinda probe, like the Prusa uses. You can get a three wire MK1 (used on the Prusa Mk2) that I do love but then you need a metal bed.. I've not seen much on the Genius to be honest, but it would need to be cheap for me to even consider it. If its + £260 then its worth just spending the extra to get the X1.. or even the new Prusa mini might be worth look at.
Thank you for your hard work I love this mod only problem is I recently upgraded to the hemera extruder but I want to keep the settings for the bltouch from your mod I was wanting to know if it was possible for you to send me the Marlin ini file or at least the configuration H for the bltouch so I can match the settings please
Hi Shawn, the source is already included in the 'expert' folder.
i have a odd problem,
ive used this mod for a while now but when printing the probe randomly deploys and then errors out any fix would be helpfull,
i have a sx1 with skr 1.4turbo
Did anyone else have issues with this? I feel like I'm the only one. I installed the sensor updated all the firmware. Probe seems to operate fine, yet every time I try to home it raises the gantry lowers the probe then just raises and lowers once or twice before erroring out. It never get's closer to the bed. I have manually moved it closer to the bed and got it to probe once or twice and even after hitting the bed it errors out?
Thank You so much! Excellent video and files.
I was able to install everything and flash the files. When i run G29 the bltouch comes down 3 times at each point and it has a probe grid of 8x8 i cant figure out why.
OK got it working BUT, when I go to put in the prusa slicer config, it is NOT in the bundle as you depict on your video. Please update!
Where can I get the M3x10 caphead screw and 4 pin connector
amazon
This is not completely clear to me, What PDF?( 3:00 ) Where do I get the 4 pin connector you used at: 2:37?
PDF is in the download file on 3duk. I got the 4 pin connector with my BLTouch kit, some people say they didn't get one, if you didn't then search for a long pin connector.
Hello! thanks for your help !!
but there was a problem that could be solved and that is not in your description.
When I plugged the wires into the extruder, the white next to the brown, the BLtouch began to make a strange noise, a tick and blinking, And it didn't work. It was only when I inverted the wires and put the yellow wire next to the white one, it started working. In the rest I followed all your instructions and everything was fine.
once again thanks for your time and work !! (by the way i have the version 3.1 of the Bltouch)
Thank you so much for posting this!!!! I have the V4 Sidewinder and I was having the exact same issue. I inverted the wires and put yellow next to white and it started working. You saved me from going through the hassle of returning my BL Touch to Amazon, because I thought it was broken. Thanks again!
kerrick001 you welcome!
Omg i was going nuts with it just blinking flashed it like 4 times thinking i was going crazy lol
This is old and out of date so unless you travel back in time and find an old Sidewinder and out of date BLtouch it won't work on newer printers, the newest BL touch wiring is White/Black/Yellow/Brown/Blue, so if doing this mod as instructed, you are wiring what? White/Brown/Blue/Yellow? doesn't work. White/Blue/Brown/Yellow? I get a blue light and nothing else.
Thank you for your help!!! If I pause the printing from the tft and restart it, the extruder does not work, the extruder only mobe for retraction. I have printing with Simplify and It does not happend, It seems to be the problem in PrusaSlicer. I hope any idea and if it happends to the rest of you. Thank you!!
Can i still use the pins on the board to activate led?
I moved them like in mod.
So the pins on the board free
Thanks very much for the how to vid! Can I still use any slicer after this mod or will I have to use Prusa?
And what was the answer to your question? XD
@@FuriousImp Any slicer will run. Look up the start code to insert in your slicer to ensure bed leveling.
@@andrewafrican Thanks. I was told, though, that for the marlin firmware flashing, you really do need prusa slicer. Is that so? Or are we talking about the same process now?
@@FuriousImp
I used Prusa slicer to push through the new firmware because that is what the recipe called for and I wanted to avoid a flop. That said, it is my understanding that other slicers can be used to flash the firmware on a 3d printer. It should be possible to use Cura to do the mod.
@@FuriousImp I am not sure.
If your BL touch is flashing rapidly with a dim red light, it means that you have the brown, red, yellow cable backwards. I had to reverse it from the instructions in this video. His PDF and video don't quite match each other. You can just reverse it where the BL touch connects to the LED pins.
Absolute legend, thanks for posting this.
Great instructions. Couldn't use my PCB proxy but I did get it working directly and with your firmware. Please add Bed PID to your firmware next pass. Tried to do that again and it didn't recognize the bed/extruder (-1).
I can't think you run bed level every print. Our beds are really stable until you apply long durations of cold or heat to them. How do you (all) manage when to use G29 because I don't really care for that to be in my startup forever.
Where did you get your 4 pin male connectors from?I ordered some from amazon but they seemed slightly smaller in diameter and were not long enough to make good contact in either the bltouch plug or the rgb light plug.Thank you
I had it floating around from an old arduino project.
The ones on amazon marked as "led connectors" are smaller and don't work well at all. I haven't found larger ones and I didn't want to wait for shipping so I built my own using some stiff aluminum single strand wire that was the right size.
I am having a major problem doing this on the Genius. The probe seems to be working fine, but when homing and doing the 2nd bump, the printer halts and needs a reset.... Any ideas? Did not find anything that worked online...
Hello,
Can I use this sensor for upgrading my genius?
Two Trees Bltouch
I have everything working except for the actual bltouch menu. It tells me "Error: EEPROM DSIABLED" and it will not do anything with the bltouch other then home. When i tried to flash earlier it wouldn't let me select a serial port and it flashed almost instantly. Any way you could help @Waggster.
Update: Tried the flash with my laptop and for some reason it was able to properly flash. Now the bltouch is working properly but the printer will not print anything.
I noticed that when the probe take measures (takes 25 probe) take them 20cm on the left side and 5cm from the right side.. so seems to be not centered and some layer on the fight side are not correct..
Are you looking at the nozzle or the probe pin when you are seeing this difference? The probe pin should be the one you need to watch
I have done the conversion, however, it is very difficult in parts. The mainboard is simply clogged with hot glue. You have to work like a dentist to get the connectors down and the new needed pins free. I also noticed that the new position of the 3 pin connector is very close to the next pins when you put the connector in the new position. I have insulated the connector on this side. The 1 pin connector is not very tight, you should stabilize it additionally with a cable tie into the right position. Well the rest worked very well (thanks Waggster). I will now try out whether this helps me in printing, because I had the suspicion that the Z position was slightly different each time again. I have one more question for Waggster. Is it possible to implement the configuration from the Arduino Configuration.h into other firmware types, if the hardware connection is correct? What I noticed after the upgrade from Nexus 1.1.9 to your version, the Z Stepper suddenly have a vibration that was not there before. Can this be?
Do you have to use prusa slicer or do the other ones (Simplify3D, cura) still work as well?
You can use any slicer you want, just make sure you add G29 after the G28 command in the slicer start gcode. This will initiate the autolevel routine.
I have installed V1.5 over V1.3. Sometimes (1 time out of 2) I have M999 error, or G28 don't work (X is not reseted correctly). Sometimes the BLTouch doesn't go down correctly. Before with V1.3 BLTouch works fine.
I think I have X1 V4.
Are there other cases like me ?
I got the same problem
Ciao posso farti una domanda? Come mai ho installato il blthuc funziona tutto alla perfezione, però se faccio ripartire una stampa dopo un blekhout ,mi fa di nuovo gli azzeramenti in home e va contro il pezzo, x poi riprendere da dove era rimasto . Mi puoi aiutare x piacere.
If I click pause and continue afterwards, My extruder will reverse and instand of pushing Fillament in it will push it out.
Could you fix that?
Also motors are louder now.
Hi, I really appreciate your work and your videos. I have recently installed Bltouch on my Artillery Genius printer. I have a problem that is making me desperate, I cannot calibrate the Z with respect to this sensor, the extruder is always left over than it should. I have tried to set Z using babysteps and calibrate H offset and P offset. Is there any advice I should follow to solve this problem? All help is great. Thanks in advance!!!
Made the mod but have a few questions. Where can I get a copy of your input config bundle? and it seems my BLTouch does not click when doing the bed level test and the blue light is very dim. It is a real BLTouch bought direct from MatterHackers. and last it seems my prints will go no higher than 6.950 in the Z axis. Sorry if these have been asked and answered before, I read til my eyes got tired and thought I'd just ask the expert.
Hi there, where can I obtain a 4 pin connector like you have to use in your mod?😀Thanks, great video by the way👍
I found the right connectors for this mod! For anyone that wants the 4 pin connector for this mod, search for this: DIKAVS Break Away Headers 2.54 mm Male Pin Header Connector - 40-pin Male Long Centered (Pack of 10)
The pins are long like the one in this video and they worked for me.