I've had mine for a little more than 6 months now. I've printed almost 20kg's of filament, multi colored prints, lots and lots of filament changes, and I have yet to have any of the problems you talk about in this video.
I have had my X1 for over 6 months now. I have never broken the idler. I have had issues with the 20 pin connector however. I found some locking connectors I plan using. That should solve the problem.
I have the artillery genius and I can not stress enought how good this printer is for its price, high quality all around it, also the customer service is excelent, I did have no problems with my printer but I read in forums other peoples and who ever had a broken part artillery send it for free , every single question I had for them has been answer really professional and fast. I have creality ender 3, cr10, creality ender 5 , and the artilery, for me the artillery is the best of all, super silent, fast printing and quality all around it
I wouldn't have made this video if I was the only one having this issue. Many don't have issues but going through the FB group, many have the exact same issues I have.
soon soon will die, trust us... get some ABS os PETG and print a pair of those, or you will not be able to do it if it is your only printer.... I own 3 of them and all of them went down. I end up printing a few levers on PETG an all good since then. (dont print them with PLA).
I disagree with so many things in this video bu it's good to have it posted so that people can have an all around opinion and decide for themselves. I don't want to sound negative but I think I'll share my opinion for anyone that wants to read it. First of all that is not a v5 but a v4( with probably a few extra spare parts) . I have had one of the first v4 units for around six months and I didn't have any problems with it other than misaligned eccentric nuts(which is one of they things that they suggest that you do out of the box in their manual). This has been my first 3d printer and I bought it because it was the best for the price. Now in regards to the ribbon cables, mine have gone on and off a bunch of times for minor modifications (that begun after the 2 month mark) that and never got fried. Most burned cables I've seen come from people not plugging them in correctly. Sure there were a few instances where there was a bend pin in some boards like yours but it's a Chinese printer low budget printer... there are definitely gonna be a few faulty units (although their support is one of the best I've seen thus far and will definitely help you to get a replacement). Also, the slight pull that the cable needs on the z axis to be removed, is something that will 100% never happen during printing if you don't pull it yourself. TL;DR you don't need to put hot glue on it because if you want to remove it for maintenance you might break/rip something. Just be careful while removing it or plugging it in. Furthermore, the "every 3 post there is a problem with the printer" point, that is very true but it's also something natural. Most people that use the printer and do not have any problems with it will not post about it at all. It happens in every 3d printing group and during my research I've seen 4 or 5 different ones. There is not printer out there that will not have someone complaining about it. My extruder idler arm didn't break thus far but I don't know if I am just lucky or it's the fact that I use it carefully and I am not putting to much pressure on it, so I can't have an opinion regarding that. A spare on is one of the first things I printed just to be safe because mine was, as I said, one of the first units which back then didn't include that. Now in order to be fair, those are the things I didn't like about the printer: First of all the firmware is not greatly optimized... The extruder steps are way to high and it needs a bit of PID tuning it needs a bit of tuning to get it right. Second, the spool holder definitely needs those parts that you have printed if you are using different size spools. Third, the cooling fan needs a different design such as the one you have. Lastly I don't like that I can't upgrade the firmware without removing the touchscreen (that is due to the mks touchscreen though and not because of artillery).
Well said. I'm in agreement with you on all your points and I thank you for the commentary on your experience with this printer. I still regard it as a strong, perhaps strongest contender for what I buy in a couple months. It has come down to going the Sidewinder route or an Ender 5 (stock, not Pro or Plus) and upgrading the mainboard, hotend, etc, etc. By the time I have the Ender 5 up to the same features as the Sidewinder I'll have spent over $500 and that just doesn't make good sense. I really believe that this Sidewinder has a lot of potential and I can easily deal with the relatively minor issues that it presents right out of the box. Thanks again.
@@ew7007 Just use common sense when using ANY 3d printer or CNC, ESPECIALLY budget chinese 3d printers, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS monitor your prints! If you don't want to keep it in the same room you frequent then hook it up to octoprint and a camera. NEVER leave the house to run a few errands during a print, especially with a machine that has the cabling so loosely coupled. A lot can go wrong in a few minutes and the reason I'm on this video is because of a reddit post from someone who did just that with his X1 and came back to a house filled with smoke and a burnt up hotend. Would you trust chinese QC with the safety of your property? As a beginner especially you need to follow these guidelines as you are new to the hobby and haven't developed an intuition or mindset to see when things are going wrong.
About two months in with over 500 hours of runtime and not a single problem other than operator error as this is my first printer. I understand that quite a few people have broken idler levers but what I don't understand is how. My solution is don't touch the lever... I have never needed it as the filament loads fine without it. So you say don't buy the printer but you make no suggestions as to an alternate suggestion. Tell me one printer under $500 that doesn't require some upgrades? I chose to focus on more relevant issues like the direct drive extruder over the bowden tubes which seem to always be an issue on the lower cost machines like the Ender 3 or CR 10. Issues like the ribbon cables are easily solved as you have demonstrated and not a reason to discount one of the best 3d printers for the money. FYI... I'm currently 2-1/5 days into a 3 day print and not a single flaw in the print. I was even able to change out spools in the middle with no problems.
I put a line of hot glue alongside all the ribbon cables. If you use some isopropanol alcohol and apply it with a small brush onto the hot glue, you can easily take the glue off after a few seconds without any force at all. The alcohol itself will dissipate completely.
Have one and love it. Done a couple of mods. Replaced the arm with a metal one, moved the fillament off the top of the gantry, installed a z-brace, clamps for the ribbon cables.
Got to remember, a lot of people has had no issues with the printer at all. I am one of those. I always check everything on any printer I buy. Tension on idler arm is to high set from factory. My original is still going strong. You have a few valid points on the other hand, but those are minor and not in the scale of "do not buy this printer" - try to be as objectiv as possible, it will benefit all - in the end. Sure, it has some issues, as almost all Chinese printers, but this one also has so many good options and comes at a low cost - so buying small things to make it perfect is easy.
PS. I have not seen any others writing or saying this is the best printer ever. My view? It`s totally worth buying, but people will run into issues, as with all other printers, especially those in this price range.
I disagree with you. Some people have bad experiences with the Sidewinder X1 and some people have great experiences with the Sidewinder X1. This goes for any product you buy, which is why you shouldn't buy the 3D Printer from any company in which you can't return it once broken and have to pay for return shipping.
I bought one about 3 years ago and it's still going strong, I knew about the issue concerning the extruder arm so I bought a metal replacement but never replaced the original as it's been fine. Since the day I plugged in the ribbon cable Iv never had any issues with it since. Prints have been amazing at 0.2 layer hight with a 0.2 & 0.4 nozzle. Yes it has a few issues but which printer doesn't and they are cheap to fix. There are always pro's and cons with every 3d printer. I also own a criality cr10 again many upgrades and tweaks. As I said before no 3d printer is perfect but I think the X1 is prity close.
`Buying a machine and knowing that within a week.....blablablagh... Sorry, I think you made a great point with the idler, and also with the ribbon cable, but don't talk like the printer is the biggest piece of crap in the world, as that is just not true. I have a couple of them running almost daily, and I have not had 1 problem with them. I don't even use the Idler, as I remove and feed the filament from within the menu and this works fine. I think when I compare the quality of the prints from this printer to that of the JGAurora A5, the Anycubic's, the Prusa MK2 and MK3, this printer nails it, by far. Yes, you might have to put a drip of hot glue on the ribbons, that's a very good solution you give there. But hey, big deal. bring it that way, without the whole disaster story.
It does print very well but the Anycubic and MK3 that I have didn't break within the first week of using it. If they would actually fix the idler and fix the ribbon cable connector, hands down this would be the best printer around.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting my Chiron from anycubic had problems since day 1. I just replaced the power switch after it had smoked and fried when I really needed it last week. But yeah, people have different yet common problems with cheap printers from China. Meanwhile my CubePro (US based)has been printing for more than 5 years with no replacement parts. Costs vary for that type of thing though.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Anycubic, really? Mine has even no thermal runaway protection from start and I guess that is Anycubic standard. It is loud and I would never recommend that machine even for a single print without the thermal runaway protection. With some mods (fans, etc.), new drivers and a new firmware finally it is useable, but in the end I payed more than for the X1 which still has no broken parts and has printed so many spools without any issue.
Thank you for making and posting this video! Super pleased you included all the links in the video description! Viewer statistic: Looking for 3rd printer, X1 is my #1 on my shopping list with some upgrades. Don't mind any detractors regarding your video. I appreciated the time and insight you put in to this project. It helps me immensely towards making my next purchase. My other option was to go for an BLV MGM Cube, but it's too pricey and needs too much time commitment.
1) There is no version five. 2) Changing nozzles at only 230° guarantees you are going to have a leak before long, then you'll blame that on Artillery. 3) When changing filament, use the thumbwheel rather than hulking out on the idler arm. 4) You put a link to the wrong PCB. 5) You recommend a bunch of "fixes" before testing them. 6) The idler and ribbon cable designs can be improved, but you blow the problem all out of proportion. Confirmation bias is when you have a problem and you only register those who have the same problem. Searching through FB posts, I counted 16 people who reported broken idler arms, and about as many who replaced them out of fear that they could break. That is a tiny percentage of all the printers that Artillery has sold. And since you came late to the Artillery game, maybe you did not realize that there is a version 4 because Artillery has improved the design whenever flaws were uncovered. Is there a version 4 Ender 3, CR10, or any other cheap Chinese printer? You have some valid concerns, but calling the machine a piece of crap and dissing people like Angus Deveson and Devon Monte for recommending is not right.
1 - People in the group said it was v5. Regardless, after 4 versions it still breaks. 2 - 230 is fine, I've done it dozens of times on other printer with no issue. 3 - The last idler arm broke during a print. As I said in the video, if you watched it, I have it as loose as it can be and yet it still breaks. Crap components and no one can question that. 4 - Thanks, I fixed the link but he is out of stock :/ 5 - Can't test a fix before actually doing it... 6 - Just because Angus and Devon got working printers means their opinion is more valid than mine? I got it just like everyone else did and it has 2 major issues that kept me from using the machine for over a month almost right out of the gate. That is a QC issue. The exact same thing happens with the MK3. Most have great experiences, including myself, but there are a ton of people that complain about fan issues and overheating extruder motor. Issues that I just don't have. Is there opinion not valid because that have a non functional machine? No. Paying to fix a device a week after receiving it is not OK regardless of the price point or who made it. Would you be ok if your phone broke a week after receiving it? How about a KitchenAid mixer? All can cost about the same and my conclusion is the same.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting1. Understood 2. When one takes the word of random people on Facebook as gospel, but completely ignores directions from E3D, who designed the Volcano hot end, that weakens one’s credibility. 3. Understood. 4. You are welcome. 5. Can't test a fix before doing it, but you can test it before making a video and recommending it. Just sayin... 6. They had problems, worked through them. And frankly yes, their opinion is more valid than yours (and mine). Mr. Deveson (I'm not on first-name basis with him), for example, is a degreed industrial designer and 3D printing is his business, not his hobby. I agree with your point about the MK3, too. It had problems. I didn't see any RUclipsrs calling it crap. You didn't have to pay to fix the printer; it has a warranty. Artillery quickly responds whenever I contact them. Yes, I would be disappointed if my phone, or KitchenAid broke within a week. I once bought a new Honda Accord, a brand known for quality and reliability. But I didn't get 10 miles from the dealership before trouble struck. Was I disappointed? Yes. Did I go on youtube in front of 15.6K people and call it crap and imply that Consumer Reports, J.D. Power, et al were shills? No.
My hot end just started smoking and the temp climbs automatically. Had finished a print shortly before loading up a new one. I have had some banding issues past few prints and was working on finding the issue. Stock hot end and extruder assembly.
got one in june. The arm didn't break on mine, the tension seems to have been correct from the factory. But the ribbon cable just walked on me. Thanks for making this, there's some very good info in here!
Man, you have some bad luck. One of our customers watched this got super paranoid about the X1 that we sold him. We've been using them for a year, and the only problem we've had so far is the vinyl-clad bed thermistor wires wearing out from flexion. We splice it at both ends with silicone-jacketed wires when it happens.
The idler arm is not an issue with this printer specifically. Almost every Titan clone has the exact same piece of plastic which will snap if you pull the arm too hard. That’s why I upgraded to a bondtech clone
Only other Titan Clones I have from a manufacturer are the Tevo ones and they do not have this issue at all. I've used TriangleLabs ones as well as an upgrade and they do not break.
I see your points and I have seen others having the same problems. However, there was not a single of these on my machine. When I change filament (and I do frequently because of color changes), I never press the idler arm. I only pull out the filament, when I have confirmed in the menu after heating. Same for putting in the new filament - just put it to the short end of the tube and it will grab the filament. Spoolholder, I have a printed version beside the printer. I do not like the extra amount of weight on top of the printer. Based on my experience, I would recommend this printer.
Just got mine 2 weeks ago and it did NOT include the extra idler arm, I’m hoping the issue is fixed? Or they forgot to put it in the box? Just finished up my first Kg spool of pla and so far, it has exceeded my expectations. I’m a total noob to 3D printing/slicing and from what I can tell at this point, I may need to print a better cooling shroud if I want perfect overhangs without using support. Or I just need to learn more about various settings and save them for various prints. Does everyone have over 10 print profiles?
Every third post in FB group is not about the idler arm, it's a stupid post asking for printer profiles. So annoying. The remaining posts are pretty much pictures of Groot or Yoda prints. The faults you speak of are easy fixes for anyone with a modicum of intelligence.
The facebook group is so cringe. I know people TRY to help and stuff and that's nice but people just spew some horrible advice on there sending these poor beginners in circles troubleshooting things by telling them to do things like edit firmware and changing heat breaks before even going through the simple more glaringly obvious fixes to a problem that could just be due to user error. Like the person just bought their first printer and telling them to take it apart is irresponsible and is doing a disservice to the user and the group. A much better option for a beginner to get help is to send them to the discord where flat out bad advice could be swiftly shut down by the very intelligent and helpful folks over there before it causes any damage.
Since I got my Sidewinder, I've had to replace all of the ribbon cables and now I'm replacing the idler arm same as you. I went ahead and ordered the circuit board just to be on the safe side and have it if I need it. I'm replacing the nozzle as well because I did manager to print quite a few things before I started having problems. I have the version 3 machine, by the way. I still think it's a great printer in terms of its features and the quiet stepper drivers/motors, but it's just typical cheap Chinese junk in terms of quality of parts. The ribbon cable design is nice, I really like the lack of a bunch of loose wires like on my other printers, but the clamping system they use leaves much to be desired. You would think that they could fix that design by adding some sort of clamping mechanism to the ribbon cable connectors. That's my 2 cents anyway.
If you look at a Raspberry Pi they use flat ribbon cable sockets that havan integral clamp built in, could be a fix for this. Surprised they did not supply the clips. Im waiting delivery , hope its the latest version. This will be my 3rd printer. Stef
I broke the screen when assembling the printer ( my bad though ). Printed with octoprint while i sourced a replacement screen! Still going strong with the original idler arm but after seeing this vid i ordered aluminum version from aliexpress.
Please stop posting that link to Amazon for the idler arm that supposedly will fit the Artillery Sidewinder. I ordered it and it does not fit. The hole in the arm below the bearing is smaller than the metal rod it is suppose to fit over. I had to send it back, so now I guess I'll have to contact Artillery and ask for a new idler arm.
I just ordered one of these this week to receive next week; I'll be sure to implement your suggestions. At work, we had a MakerBot and ended up having to fully enclose the unit to work well; would you suggest me making an insulated cabinet for this unit? Thanks.
So I don't own a 3d printer yet. I'm late to the game on this and still doing some research before I purchase one. The sidewinder 1x is recommended on a lot of other channels but I just found your RUclips channel. What 3d printer would you recommend since the Sidewinder 1x has so many issues?
I think it is a good printer if you take precautions as soon as you buy it. Replace the idler arm and put hot glue on the ribbon cables to secure them.
Excellent upload, but I have to ask, did you do a video on how to change the idler arm??? My one broke a few months back and I’m a total new comer and this is my first 3d printer so any help would be massively appreciated. All the best from Australia 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎🤓
Ribbon flat cables are not designed for moving parts. We used them in micro hifi systems linking static breakout boards when I worked as Audio R&D Engineer back then. You are right when you say by design, this is a problem.
Hi . i had just order the artillery sidewinder and i was aware of this issue .So i had ordred a aluminium one . Will be receiving the Printer this week ,I'm excited to try it out . So you have profile for prusa silcer for this printer ? can you direct me where can get it ?
ordered a metal replacement for mine just in case and it took forever to get here bc of coronavirus. thankfully the original is still going strong at the moment
I have never used the Ender 5 Plus so I can't say. The Sidewinder X1 works, you just need to be careful with it. More so than a Creality printer which is sad.
Hi. I am having some trouble with my 3D printer. I have a Folgertech FT 5 R2 and I am getting what looks like some small minor underextrusion or filament skipping in the layers and also extrusion inconsistencies throughout my prints. I am using Makergeek’s PLA with the printer’s original extruder. I have already change the print speed setting from the default, which was print speeds of 60 mm/s, acceleration of 3000 mm/s^2 and jerk of 20 mm/s to the changed setting, print speeds of 30 mm/s, acceleration of 500 m/s^2 and jerk to 15 mm/s, from there being layer shifting and under extrusion problems at the default speed setting. this kind of worked but still my problem that I am asking about is still there. I don’t known if the problem is the filament, the extruder setup or my Cura Slicer Profile Settings. What is the best why way to solve this or a list of things I can try?
I'm somewhat surprised that you didn't mention the lack of an all metal heat break as a potential issue. An easy enough upgrade, but something that I wish they would come with out of the gate!
If those are the problems then its not a big deal to me. I can live with those issues and fix them as needed but I did order an extruder arm just to be safe.
While I agree the arms is not the best and a Metal Arm would be nice this printer has been an absolute joy to own. The filament change option is great, and almost eliminates the need to push the arm at all, and as you stated the tension knob at the back of the arm needs to be loosened. It appears to me that you just received a dud machine, which happens, Look at Angus from Makers Muse he hated the Ender 3 because of all the issues he had but everyone else loved it!
so salty over a couple pretty small issues with extremely easy fixes. you really shouldn't wiggle or mess with ribbon cables that carry electricity while the machine is on .
Hi Thanks for the video. I decided to get a X1 and wanted to ask if the hex screws are metric or Imperial. I wanted to pick up a tool kit for it. Thanks.
so in conclusion you dont know how to use ribbon cables, theres no reason they should be pulled on but in the unlikley event that they are or something gets caught or whatever itd by WAY preferable that it just disconnects rather than damaging the cable and/or board its connected to, the original models had them but they got removed, cost might of been the reason but as far as i see it its an improvement
Got a SW X1, you don't need to touch the plastic arm to fill filament in, never had issues with cables, but nobody has the same story right ? Most people push the arm like a lever, it's wrong way to use it, mostly you don't touch it and it goes perfect using the machine options to fill in and out... With the cables, well, you were unlucky, bad day ^^
In regards to the idle lever breaking, here's some advice I got from another X1 user: *"When you get it from the factory, loosen it all the way and then tighten it till you can’t pull the filament out anymore. The issue is that people fail to do this and it’s too tight and breaks."*
Seriously having a few quirks on a printer makes you investigate and learn more about 3d printing then you get the satisfaction of printing your first real world practical things that you can add to your printer to make it a better more reliable printer. No matter how you look at it 3d printing is not a plug and play hobby, bed and nozzle temperatures, material types, layer heights, supports. If your concerned about printing a few parts then and your not willing to learn a little then 3d printing is not for you it's not a star trek replicator. My first printer was a flashforge creator pro and I brought that at £500 because I listened someone on a forum talk about how it was better for "beginners" vs something you needed to mod so I ended up with a noisey rattle box with a build plate the size of a postage stamp that I still had to print parts fo!. When it comes to 3D printers beginners is a very relative term your only as beginner as you want to be. I have the sidewinder v4 and I love it compared to my creator pro. In fact I've just ordered a second one and giving serious consideration to getting a third just in case for some reason the company goes out of business in these turbulent times I'm also stocking up on a few replacement parts that's pretty much the best compliment I could give. Right now the Artillery sidewinder is to the FDM world what the Elegoo Mars/Saturn are to the SLA world. Now all they need to do is bring out a big core XY or a large Delta. 3D printing is addictive!!!.
Shane you’re so dead on. I got this printer and it had all the issues you mentioned. I got pissed and rebuilt mine. You didn’t even mention the other big issue. The MKS GEN L clone board is junk, the screen is junk and they both have major issues. 1. You can’t save to eprom, 2. It’s 8 bit, 3. All the wiring for the screen is mismatched cable ends to the wrong plugs and is hot glued together. I replaced my board and screen with a Duet 2 WiFi and Panel Due... the hotend and extruder are both completely garbage. A PTFE lined Volcano? Lol. The Titan Aero is cheap and works fine, but the tension arm is crap, the job gear is crappy, the PTFE tube they send with it is garbage, oh... and the Pancake Motor, yeah it has a press fit PLASTIC drive gear on it. I replaced mine with a genuine Bondtech BMG-M and Slice Mosquito. I also added a EZABL. Even with all that, it still doesn’t print super good because of the Z leadscrews and the brass nuts are goofy and cause z banding. I took my belt off, and removed their leadscrew plastic assembly. It’s way better albeit not perfect. I’m glad you called a spade a spade. This printer is good for most people. But for heavy or professional use it’s not.
And a professional wouldn't pay less than £300 for a work horse. Are people's expectations actually a bit OTT? As a hobby tool it's a bargain. We're makers FFS, these little hurdles are present on printers that cost more than twice as much. The new Prusa mini costs more than this and has had issues out of the gates. My full size Prusa needed loads of mods before I was happy with it.
You say "But for heavy or professional use it’s not." Why would you expect it to be? Are you kidding? Overstate the obvious much? Its a $400 printer from China (or wherever) competing with others in its class. That class has no place in production or engineering. What were you expecting when you ordered yours? You couldn't have really been surprised to discover its shortcomings unless you're a rookie at this and I doubt that you are. How about giving us a little detail about your leadscrew mod. That would be helpful. A sarcastic laundry list about what is wrong with it and why its junk is not.
@@ew7007 I appreciate your response. If you go to my channel you can see my printer. I am no noob. I've been printing forever (3 years :)... With that said this is my first Chinese printer. I have two Prusa's and a SeeMeCnc Artemis. I got this printer with the intention of just using the bed heater assembly and the frame. But I didn't realize how bad the ribbon connectors are. The ribbons are fine and durable even... it's the shotty Chinese soldering on the PCB's... it's like they are trying to build PCB's in the basement of their mom's house. The Z Banding is a Major issue. They for many reasons have bad z banding. My guess is that they have a combo of Bent lead screws, and/or inconsistent upright extrusions or even wobbly wheels. In my case it the way they try to Chin-Engineer a anti-backlash system for the lead-screw nuts. I removed this system and went to good old fashion leadscrew brass nuts and it helped a ton. They also have the two z lead screws (and two Z motors) connected at the top with gears and belts. This is generally a bad idea. If the they get out of sync and they do, the X Gantry will tilt and stay that way causing issues. IF they are separate like they are supposed to be you can do a "MAX_Z" with sensorless endstops enabled on the Max_Z and level the X Gantry to the top cross-member like its supposed to be before doing the MIN_Z with a endstop or probe. That's how Prusa keeps the motors in sync all the time and the gantry level.
@@thelightspeed3d712 Now that helps a ton. Thanks! I'll look into changing out the leadscrew nuts and employing the MAX_Z processes. I'm not trying to get Prusa grade quality but the Z banding is annoying as hell and something I want to address immediately as much as possible. The ribbon termination boards is a no brainer. I do appreciate your reply and follow up with good info. I'll check you your channel. Thanks again.
@@thelightspeed3d712 You paid twice as much and then some for the Prusa and still had to fully assemble it yourself. You are not comparing apples with apples. I modified my Prusa loads before I was happy with it. This printer is sub £300. Anyone with 2 brain cells to rub together must know it's either going to be good enough as a plaything or a fixer upper. With the money I spent on the X1 it still comes in cheaper than the Prusa and I'm infinitely happier with it than I ever have been with my MK 2.5.... because yes I paid a shit ton for a Prusa upgrade kit to address the short comings of the MK2.
I clicked on this video to see if there were some things I could improve on my printer that maybe I hadn’t already easily printed and installed. But instead it’s literally just you bashing on this awesome printer...
Your getting alot of criticism in the comments. Chep highlighted the same issues as you too. Maybe they haven't seen his review. Thanks for showing the gluegun tip too. I'll be doing that when mine arrives.
I bought mine 4 months ago, and I haven't had any manufacturing issues with it. It's been wonderful, significantly better and nicer to use than my first printer was. I highly recommend it.
I'm completely agrre. The printer machine works really good. But, it comes with a lot of little issues. By my part. I had this printer like one moth ago. In one month, y had a problem with the wires of Z motor, they come almost broken. The cooler started to make noise. I had a problem also with the printed pieces that I tried to make. Looks like an obstruction. I change the pieces of the extruder and it started to work fine untill I tried to make a piece with some altitude. And an obstruction again, probably because a problem of the motor cause it is impossible to have again an obstruction so quick. The people that have this machine are in general happy, maybe the mine one is a defective one. But to many problems in just one month of use.
Question, since this uses an E3D Titan clone why not just order an original Titan idler arm from E3D? They're only like $10 US. Or is there a reason it won't fit? It would certainly be more reliable and durable than the Asian knockoff. Overall your's is not a bad video about these issues but its hard to understand what you're trying to say. You say its "a pretty fantastic machine" but you recommend people not to buy it. I need a second machine and after lots and lots of research I think its going to be this one. In my opinion its strengths outweigh the faults. Any printer with these features that is under $500 is going to have some issues. My concern is finding something with a strong foundation that has room for some upgrades and modifications.
Your "review" or troubleshoot video for the SWX1 is kinda criticism on a very high level. This is a printer for 400$ or less. What do you expect? A part, that can break after 200+ hours? No problem, just print a new one... The fried pin? Rather not a "normal" failure, every product has some problems sometimes. I don't know what the hell brought you to do this "review", problems out of the box? What is the difference if you buy this thing for 400 and upgrade some parts or if you buy the printer for 500$ from the factory?
thankyou!! I'm so tired if all these facebook bandwagoners trying to say dont change anything it's perfect from the factory lol if I lined up 10 printers they probably couldnt tell me what one is good or bad
Just buy a metal arm and put a dab of hot glue on the joints of the ribbon cables. Any half-wit can do that. I just ordered one for my brand new printer and I'm gonna break out my hot glue gun now.
I haven't had any manufacturer issues with mine (a v4) so far, and I've owned it for about 4 months now. It's been miles better than my first printer was, and I highly recommend it.
Fugatech 3D Printing said: "I wouldn't have made this video if I was the only one having this issue. Many don't have issues but going through the FB group, many have the exact same issues I have. " Fugatech 3D Printing That mean you never was on other 3D printers FB groups or other places, becouse every one have some problems, just like Don Gray said to you. I think you have some reason on personal level giving to all rest of us viewers bad opinion about Artillery printing. I have TRONXY printer and had much more problems then you had with this one, but I taking that for normal, becouse nobody force me to buy printer for 200$ instead almoust perfect Prusa for 1.000$. You can't even compare Prusa directly with Sidwinder becouse Prusa don't have some features which Sidewinder have. And acording that, if Prusa will make printer to be at same feature range like Sidewinder, it will cost about 1.500$+ and THEN you can complain about lever and other minor things ( which you get spare one with Sidewinder for free). Your review just make me closer to buying Sidewinder becouse if you find just that problems on that lovely machine, it is a winner for me. Also, thank you, I will buy alloy lever same moment I will buy Sidevinder X1 ( next week)
Why don't they just fix the small issues, they are almost effortless to fix. Perhaps they don't read English that much. One thing worth notice is that there are very few people even heard of this brand in China. My guess is that [Don't read English]+[No user base in China]=. Perhaps nowadays this company still believes that every design on this printer works fine.
I think this 2 isues are bad but yuo can solved...anyway for that money and quality yuo must excpect some isues..and for yuo new in the 3d printing world: if yuo have this machine , put some hot glue and buy the metal idler.Problem solved.Great Prints, after all
Wait, someone that doesn't know the lever doesn't ever have to be touched is giving recommendations exclaiming "Watch this before buying the Artillery Sidewinder X1!!" Notice it comes complete with TWO (count'em, TWO) exclamation marks!! Pathetic.
You are posting this in 2020... * Idler: problem is fixed from factory in current versions. Of course they CAN break and wear as they are consumable items though, but normally they will last long * ribbon: problem is fixed from factory with newer boards so that more wires are used. Of course there are still some older ones out there but new orders should get the updated ones without problems. Just order directly from factory though. And: the first ones did not have these problems with the idlers and also not the ribbons, just got there in later changes. About the subboard: don't just replace ONE but you need to replace both or you will just get problems with the ribbon-cables, probably even more then first. The latest versions are different.
I was supposedly sent the most recent version. (People say that because it has a reset button) So having the idler break twice, the second being the "new design" they sent me and the fried ribbon cable says it hasn't been fixed. The idler is not a consumable. No idea where you get that fact from. I have 2 legit E3D Titans and they have never broken in the 3+ years of use and have several thousand of hours of printing on them.
Do the new boards have better connectors on it? If not, I don't think they last long. Ob my printer the 30pin connector gets really hot on one spot on both ends. Thr marking on the board says V1.6. I'm planning to exchange the connectors with better ones. But all in all I would buy the printer again.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Ok, so you did not get the latest version of the subboards that is for sure. Since the factory does not have official versions there is no way to check from the box, but you have to measure it yourself and count the wires. There should be 2 sets of 4 wires on both sides of the X-ribboncable if you have the latest version. Same for the idler: it is much stronger in the newer versions. I believe they shipped that from november 2019 or start of december only. Before that you had one of the 'between versions'. I have one - amongst newer - of the oldest ones and they have strong idlers like the last ones (from november-december). And yes, I call them consumables because they will wear out like the heatbread, nozzles, wires and gears. i have printed some on spares and they only break when I have a problem like a stuck filament (on the spool or in the sensor or other guide) or press to hard myself on the idler. Well better to break the idler then for example the motor or its bearings which you cannot print yourself or buy for about 60 cents online. The reset-button has been there since beginning of the summer by the way, so a long way back for this printer that has been updated all the time since 2018, still sold under the same name and version. There are more then 30 different 'versions' from it that I have seen and for the last months it seems to be stable and 'end product', all the times improving on the feedback of customers and replacing parts for free for at least the first 3 months after buying from factory. First ones came with the gripping on the ribboncables but that has changed after that, probably because of consumer-problems that did not know how to fit the ribbon-cables the right way and went for a simpler solution for installing.
@@bene3445 The connectors themselfs have not changed since the previous version of these for as far as I noticed, but the wirering has changed. Therefore you need to replace both boards at once to prevent melting and shortconnects. On the latest pre-version there were 4 connections for the + on one side, one gap and 3 connections for the (switched) - for the heater. The 'gap' on some boards (like the latest iteration before the last) is connected on the other side to the + ... On the newer boards (november-december 2019), there is no more gap between + and - (so you have to set the cables correctly !) and you have 4 connections for the + followed by 4 connections for the - of the heater. So, if you have the old board with the + on the connection of the 'gap' on the right and have the newest board on the left, you have a direct short when you turn on the heater. There are no different versions written on the boards though so you have to count wires / connections or get both at the same time as a new ribbon cable (that is also a bit different then in the previous sub-version that were shipped in september-oktober). (Yes, this printer is more exiting then a soap on TV!)
@@elvinhaak Spare Boards are on the way. I'll change them all or at least I'll conduct measure them and follow the traces. My plan still is to exchange the connectors on the boards
Sounds to me that you are a heavy handed cave man who is never happy with anything unless you have broken it and then made it better. Thousands of these sold all over the world without people replacing, modifying or upgrading any parts at all. Its a very delicate precise piece of machinery. Like any other printer. It not a car! OK rant over 😆
17 min of whining... It is a DIY kit , why didn't you see this? Oh, because u got it together for like 20min? And did not care for details.. but ofc it would fail. Those are your mistakes
@@Fugatech3DPrinting But they are also way more expensive. For the price and specs, don't expect anything more. A clone Titan extruder is better than no Titan extruder.
Why even the negative reviews seem positive. What is with the western world holding the hands of these companies. So frustrating. These guys know what they are doing, there is no passion and no consideration. They are faceless entities just slinging junk. No CEO no face. Let us sell a crappy item cheap as possible and see what the westerners are willing to fix. Anyways I am a long time subscriber, and usually do not comment. I just hate these "hey China needs to fix this" when it actually should be.... "these guys suck don't buy it"
So what "western world" engineered and manufactured "CEO face" showing company's printer would you recommend with this feature set for $500 or less? No, really. Which one? I don't see or hear a bunch of hand holding here (or anywhere for that matter). I see people trying to save money and taking up (mostly) the challenge of fixing the problems that most buyers understand in advance that they're going to have with a Eastern World clone.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I've had mine for a little more than 6 months now. I've printed almost 20kg's of filament, multi colored prints, lots and lots of filament changes, and I have yet to have any of the problems you talk about in this video.
I received my X1 last week, and the lever came already broken exactly the same way he shows in the video. Waiting for replacement.
I have had my X1 for over 6 months now. I have never broken the idler. I have had issues with the 20 pin connector however. I found some locking connectors I plan using. That should solve the problem.
2 months, extruder motor, 20 pin connector and the cable....too cute printer but too fragile
@@saquitomac2573 there is a way to feed the filament in without touching the lever
Brian Cruz that’s the problem these dudes think you have to move the arm to insert the filament lol! He even says it in the video 😂
I have the artillery genius and I can not stress enought how good this printer is for its price, high quality all around it, also the customer service is excelent, I did have no problems with my printer but I read in forums other peoples and who ever had a broken part artillery send it for free , every single question I had for them has been answer really professional and fast. I have creality ender 3, cr10, creality ender 5 , and the artilery, for me the artillery is the best of all, super silent, fast printing and quality all around it
I have had mine since 1 November 2019. It has been going constantly with many filament changes. No problems.
I wouldn't have made this video if I was the only one having this issue. Many don't have issues but going through the FB group, many have the exact same issues I have.
your thing is gonna die soon not kidding, i almost returned mine
More important why would a company send a replacement part other than hardware right from purchase, if it wasn't a know problem?
soon soon will die, trust us... get some ABS os PETG and print a pair of those, or you will not be able to do it if it is your only printer.... I own 3 of them and all of them went down. I end up printing a few levers on PETG an all good since then. (dont print them with PLA).
Kreative Drone mine was fine, just adjust the pressure that was put on it
I disagree with so many things in this video bu it's good to have it posted so that people can have an all around opinion and decide for themselves. I don't want to sound negative but I think I'll share my opinion for anyone that wants to read it.
First of all that is not a v5 but a v4( with probably a few extra spare parts) . I have had one of the first v4 units for around six months and I didn't have any problems with it other than misaligned eccentric nuts(which is one of they things that they suggest that you do out of the box in their manual). This has been my first 3d printer and I bought it because it was the best for the price.
Now in regards to the ribbon cables, mine have gone on and off a bunch of times for minor modifications (that begun after the 2 month mark) that and never got fried. Most burned cables I've seen come from people not plugging them in correctly. Sure there were a few instances where there was a bend pin in some boards like yours but it's a Chinese printer low budget printer... there are definitely gonna be a few faulty units (although their support is one of the best I've seen thus far and will definitely help you to get a replacement). Also, the slight pull that the cable needs on the z axis to be removed, is something that will 100% never happen during printing if you don't pull it yourself. TL;DR you don't need to put hot glue on it because if you want to remove it for maintenance you might break/rip something. Just be careful while removing it or plugging it in.
Furthermore, the "every 3 post there is a problem with the printer" point, that is very true but it's also something natural. Most people that use the printer and do not have any problems with it will not post about it at all. It happens in every 3d printing group and during my research I've seen 4 or 5 different ones. There is not printer out there that will not have someone complaining about it.
My extruder idler arm didn't break thus far but I don't know if I am just lucky or it's the fact that I use it carefully and I am not putting to much pressure on it, so I can't have an opinion regarding that. A spare on is one of the first things I printed just to be safe because mine was, as I said, one of the first units which back then didn't include that.
Now in order to be fair, those are the things I didn't like about the printer: First of all the firmware is not greatly optimized... The extruder steps are way to high and it needs a bit of PID tuning it needs a bit of tuning to get it right. Second, the spool holder definitely needs those parts that you have printed if you are using different size spools. Third, the cooling fan needs a different design such as the one you have. Lastly I don't like that I can't upgrade the firmware without removing the touchscreen (that is due to the mks touchscreen though and not because of artillery).
Well said. I'm in agreement with you on all your points and I thank you for the commentary on your experience with this printer. I still regard it as a strong, perhaps strongest contender for what I buy in a couple months. It has come down to going the Sidewinder route or an Ender 5 (stock, not Pro or Plus) and upgrading the mainboard, hotend, etc, etc. By the time I have the Ender 5 up to the same features as the Sidewinder I'll have spent over $500 and that just doesn't make good sense. I really believe that this Sidewinder has a lot of potential and I can easily deal with the relatively minor issues that it presents right out of the box. Thanks again.
@@ew7007 Just use common sense when using ANY 3d printer or CNC, ESPECIALLY budget chinese 3d printers, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS monitor your prints! If you don't want to keep it in the same room you frequent then hook it up to octoprint and a camera. NEVER leave the house to run a few errands during a print, especially with a machine that has the cabling so loosely coupled. A lot can go wrong in a few minutes and the reason I'm on this video is because of a reddit post from someone who did just that with his X1 and came back to a house filled with smoke and a burnt up hotend. Would you trust chinese QC with the safety of your property? As a beginner especially you need to follow these guidelines as you are new to the hobby and haven't developed an intuition or mindset to see when things are going wrong.
I realize it is pretty randomly asking but does anyone know of a good website to stream new movies online?
@Rocco Davis Meh I use Flixportal. You can find it by googling=) -uriah
@Uriah Hunter thanks, signed up and it seems to work :D Appreciate it !!
About two months in with over 500 hours of runtime and not a single problem other than operator error as this is my first printer. I understand that quite a few people have broken idler levers but what I don't understand is how. My solution is don't touch the lever... I have never needed it as the filament loads fine without it. So you say don't buy the printer but you make no suggestions as to an alternate suggestion. Tell me one printer under $500 that doesn't require some upgrades? I chose to focus on more relevant issues like the direct drive extruder over the bowden tubes which seem to always be an issue on the lower cost machines like the Ender 3 or CR 10. Issues like the ribbon cables are easily solved as you have demonstrated and not a reason to discount one of the best 3d printers for the money. FYI... I'm currently 2-1/5 days into a 3 day print and not a single flaw in the print. I was even able to change out spools in the middle with no problems.
Creality Cr-6 Se or Artillery sidewinder x1 ?
@@BirAdSecin both.
I put a line of hot glue alongside all the ribbon cables. If you use some isopropanol alcohol and apply it with a small brush onto the hot glue, you can easily take the glue off after a few seconds without any force at all. The alcohol itself will dissipate completely.
Have one and love it. Done a couple of mods. Replaced the arm with a metal one, moved the fillament off the top of the gantry, installed a z-brace, clamps for the ribbon cables.
What brace did you end up using?
Got to remember, a lot of people has had no issues with the printer at all. I am one of those. I always check everything on any printer I buy. Tension on idler arm is to high set from factory. My original is still going strong.
You have a few valid points on the other hand, but those are minor and not in the scale of "do not buy this printer" - try to be as objectiv as possible, it will benefit all - in the end.
Sure, it has some issues, as almost all Chinese printers, but this one also has so many good options and comes at a low cost - so buying small things to make it perfect is easy.
I didn't say don't buy it. I said I can't recommend it as the "BEST PRINTER EVER" like all the others.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting 15:09 - 15:19, "My current suggestion as of right now is to not buy this machine" - not my words, it`s yours.
PS. I have not seen any others writing or saying this is the best printer ever.
My view? It`s totally worth buying, but people will run into issues, as with all other printers, especially those in this price range.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Who said it is the "BEST PRINTER EVER"? Please stick to facts and leave out the hyperbole.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Yeah, you kind of did. Twice by the way.
I disagree with you. Some people have bad experiences with the Sidewinder X1 and some people have great experiences with the Sidewinder X1. This goes for any product you buy, which is why you shouldn't buy the 3D Printer from any company in which you can't return it once broken and have to pay for return shipping.
I bought one about 3 years ago and it's still going strong, I knew about the issue concerning the extruder arm so I bought a metal replacement but never replaced the original as it's been fine. Since the day I plugged in the ribbon cable Iv never had any issues with it since. Prints have been amazing at 0.2 layer hight with a 0.2 & 0.4 nozzle. Yes it has a few issues but which printer doesn't and they are cheap to fix. There are always pro's and cons with every 3d printer. I also own a criality cr10 again many upgrades and tweaks. As I said before no 3d printer is perfect but I think the X1 is prity close.
`Buying a machine and knowing that within a week.....blablablagh...
Sorry, I think you made a great point with the idler, and also with the ribbon cable, but don't talk like the printer is the biggest piece of crap in the world, as that is just not true.
I have a couple of them running almost daily, and I have not had 1 problem with them. I don't even use the Idler, as I remove and feed the filament from within the menu and this works fine.
I think when I compare the quality of the prints from this printer to that of the JGAurora A5, the Anycubic's, the Prusa MK2 and MK3, this printer nails it, by far.
Yes, you might have to put a drip of hot glue on the ribbons, that's a very good solution you give there. But hey, big deal. bring it that way, without the whole disaster story.
It does print very well but the Anycubic and MK3 that I have didn't break within the first week of using it. If they would actually fix the idler and fix the ribbon cable connector, hands down this would be the best printer around.
My thoughts exactly!
@@Fugatech3DPrinting my Chiron from anycubic had problems since day 1. I just replaced the power switch after it had smoked and fried when I really needed it last week.
But yeah, people have different yet common problems with cheap printers from China.
Meanwhile my CubePro (US based)has been printing for more than 5 years with no replacement parts. Costs vary for that type of thing though.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Anycubic, really? Mine has even no thermal runaway protection from start and I guess that is Anycubic standard. It is loud and I would never recommend that machine even for a single print without the thermal runaway protection. With some mods (fans, etc.), new drivers and a new firmware finally it is useable, but in the end I payed more than for the X1 which still has no broken parts and has printed so many spools without any issue.
Thank you for making and posting this video! Super pleased you included all the links in the video description!
Viewer statistic: Looking for 3rd printer, X1 is my #1 on my shopping list with some upgrades.
Don't mind any detractors regarding your video. I appreciated the time and insight you put in to this project. It helps me immensely towards making my next purchase. My other option was to go for an BLV MGM Cube, but it's too pricey and needs too much time commitment.
1) There is no version five. 2) Changing nozzles at only 230° guarantees you are going to have a leak before long, then you'll blame that on Artillery. 3) When changing filament, use the thumbwheel rather than hulking out on the idler arm. 4) You put a link to the wrong PCB. 5) You recommend a bunch of "fixes" before testing them. 6) The idler and ribbon cable designs can be improved, but you blow the problem all out of proportion. Confirmation bias is when you have a problem and you only register those who have the same problem. Searching through FB posts, I counted 16 people who reported broken idler arms, and about as many who replaced them out of fear that they could break. That is a tiny percentage of all the printers that Artillery has sold. And since you came late to the Artillery game, maybe you did not realize that there is a version 4 because Artillery has improved the design whenever flaws were uncovered. Is there a version 4 Ender 3, CR10, or any other cheap Chinese printer? You have some valid concerns, but calling the machine a piece of crap and dissing people like Angus Deveson and Devon Monte for recommending is not right.
1 - People in the group said it was v5. Regardless, after 4 versions it still breaks.
2 - 230 is fine, I've done it dozens of times on other printer with no issue.
3 - The last idler arm broke during a print. As I said in the video, if you watched it, I have it as loose as it can be and yet it still breaks. Crap components and no one can question that.
4 - Thanks, I fixed the link but he is out of stock :/
5 - Can't test a fix before actually doing it...
6 - Just because Angus and Devon got working printers means their opinion is more valid than mine? I got it just like everyone else did and it has 2 major issues that kept me from using the machine for over a month almost right out of the gate. That is a QC issue. The exact same thing happens with the MK3. Most have great experiences, including myself, but there are a ton of people that complain about fan issues and overheating extruder motor. Issues that I just don't have. Is there opinion not valid because that have a non functional machine? No.
Paying to fix a device a week after receiving it is not OK regardless of the price point or who made it. Would you be ok if your phone broke a week after receiving it? How about a KitchenAid mixer? All can cost about the same and my conclusion is the same.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting1. Understood
2. When one takes the word of random people on Facebook as gospel, but completely ignores directions from E3D, who designed the Volcano hot end, that weakens one’s credibility.
3. Understood.
4. You are welcome.
5. Can't test a fix before doing it, but you can test it before making a video and recommending it. Just sayin...
6. They had problems, worked through them. And frankly yes, their opinion is more valid than yours (and mine). Mr. Deveson (I'm not on first-name basis with him), for example, is a degreed industrial designer and 3D printing is his business, not his hobby. I agree with your point about the MK3, too. It had problems. I didn't see any RUclipsrs calling it crap.
You didn't have to pay to fix the printer; it has a warranty. Artillery quickly responds whenever I contact them. Yes, I would be disappointed if my phone, or KitchenAid broke within a week. I once bought a new Honda Accord, a brand known for quality and reliability. But I didn't get 10 miles from the dealership before trouble struck. Was I disappointed? Yes. Did I go on youtube in front of 15.6K people and call it crap and imply that Consumer Reports, J.D. Power, et al were shills? No.
My hot end just started smoking and the temp climbs automatically. Had finished a print shortly before loading up a new one. I have had some banding issues past few prints and was working on finding the issue. Stock hot end and extruder assembly.
got one in june. The arm didn't break on mine, the tension seems to have been correct from the factory. But the ribbon cable just walked on me. Thanks for making this, there's some very good info in here!
I'm wondering if they have changed the mold since this video was made. Either way, keep an eye on those ribbon cable connections!
Man, you have some bad luck. One of our customers watched this got super paranoid about the X1 that we sold him. We've been using them for a year, and the only problem we've had so far is the vinyl-clad bed thermistor wires wearing out from flexion. We splice it at both ends with silicone-jacketed wires when it happens.
The idler arm is not an issue with this printer specifically. Almost every Titan clone has the exact same piece of plastic which will snap if you pull the arm too hard. That’s why I upgraded to a bondtech clone
Only other Titan Clones I have from a manufacturer are the Tevo ones and they do not have this issue at all. I've used TriangleLabs ones as well as an upgrade and they do not break.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting There are metal idler levers available.
I see your points and I have seen others having the same problems. However, there was not a single of these on my machine. When I change filament (and I do frequently because of color changes), I never press the idler arm. I only pull out the filament, when I have confirmed in the menu after heating. Same for putting in the new filament - just put it to the short end of the tube and it will grab the filament. Spoolholder, I have a printed version beside the printer. I do not like the extra amount of weight on top of the printer. Based on my experience, I would recommend this printer.
Just got mine 2 weeks ago and it did NOT include the extra idler arm, I’m hoping the issue is fixed? Or they forgot to put it in the box? Just finished up my first Kg spool of pla and so far, it has exceeded my expectations. I’m a total noob to 3D printing/slicing and from what I can tell at this point, I may need to print a better cooling shroud if I want perfect overhangs without using support. Or I just need to learn more about various settings and save them for various prints. Does everyone have over 10 print profiles?
Every third post in FB group is not about the idler arm, it's a stupid post asking for printer profiles. So annoying. The remaining posts are pretty much pictures of Groot or Yoda prints. The faults you speak of are easy fixes for anyone with a modicum of intelligence.
The facebook group is so cringe. I know people TRY to help and stuff and that's nice but people just spew some horrible advice on there sending these poor beginners in circles troubleshooting things by telling them to do things like edit firmware and changing heat breaks before even going through the simple more glaringly obvious fixes to a problem that could just be due to user error. Like the person just bought their first printer and telling them to take it apart is irresponsible and is doing a disservice to the user and the group. A much better option for a beginner to get help is to send them to the discord where flat out bad advice could be swiftly shut down by the very intelligent and helpful folks over there before it causes any damage.
This is the only video making me hesitant to grab a sidewinder x1 v4
Did you end up getting on? I’m currently stuck between this and the CR10 V3 😩
what i heard is "this is the best printer if you don't mind fixing a few things" lol
That's actually a fair assessment. I don't mind, so it's perfect for me!
Right!? We're getting a printer to tinker either way, and for the price with the pros it outweighs the cons.
hi i try the metal version and it didn't feet well no issue with the plastic one
Since I got my Sidewinder, I've had to replace all of the ribbon cables and now I'm replacing the idler arm same as you. I went ahead and ordered the circuit board just to be on the safe side and have it if I need it. I'm replacing the nozzle as well because I did manager to print quite a few things before I started having problems. I have the version 3 machine, by the way. I still think it's a great printer in terms of its features and the quiet stepper drivers/motors, but it's just typical cheap Chinese junk in terms of quality of parts. The ribbon cable design is nice, I really like the lack of a bunch of loose wires like on my other printers, but the clamping system they use leaves much to be desired. You would think that they could fix that design by adding some sort of clamping mechanism to the ribbon cable connectors. That's my 2 cents anyway.
If you look at a Raspberry Pi they use flat ribbon cable sockets that havan integral clamp built in, could be a fix for this. Surprised they did not supply the clips. Im waiting delivery , hope its the latest version. This will be my 3rd printer.
Stef
I broke the screen when assembling the printer ( my bad though ). Printed with octoprint while i sourced a replacement screen! Still going strong with the original idler arm but after seeing this vid i ordered aluminum version from aliexpress.
what did you search for the aluminum idler arm?
@@zachofalltrades1111 Titan idler :)
I linked it in the video description.
Please stop posting that link to Amazon for the idler arm that supposedly will fit the Artillery Sidewinder. I ordered it and it does not fit. The hole in the arm below the bearing is smaller than the metal rod it is suppose to fit over. I had to send it back, so now I guess I'll have to contact Artillery and ask for a new idler arm.
They sell metal tension arms on Amazon for those Titan/Titan clone extruders.
Just got one. I haven't used mine yet but it will be handy to have a metal upgraded arm
I just ordered one of these this week to receive next week; I'll be sure to implement your suggestions. At work, we had a MakerBot and ended up having to fully enclose the unit to work well; would you suggest me making an insulated cabinet for this unit? Thanks.
So I don't own a 3d printer yet. I'm late to the game on this and still doing some research before I purchase one. The sidewinder 1x is recommended on a lot of other channels but I just found your RUclips channel. What 3d printer would you recommend since the Sidewinder 1x has so many issues?
I think it is a good printer if you take precautions as soon as you buy it. Replace the idler arm and put hot glue on the ribbon cables to secure them.
Excellent upload, but I have to ask, did you do a video on how to change the idler arm???
My one broke a few months back and I’m a total new comer and this is my first 3d printer so any help would be massively appreciated.
All the best from Australia 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎🤓
Ribbon flat cables are not designed for moving parts. We used them in micro hifi systems linking static breakout boards when I worked as Audio R&D Engineer back then. You are right when you say by design, this is a problem.
Really, so injet printers that have been that way for 30 years are designed wrong?
Hi . i had just order the artillery sidewinder and i was aware of this issue .So i had ordred a aluminium one . Will be receiving the Printer this week ,I'm excited to try it out . So you have profile for prusa silcer for this printer ? can you direct me where can get it ?
I've only used Simplify3D with this printer.
My arm just broke today. Thanks for the video. I'm ordering the metal arm.
ordered a metal replacement for mine just in case and it took forever to get here bc of coronavirus. thankfully the original is still going strong at the moment
you might want to print that, when you have your new idler www.thingiverse.com/thing:4288079 some idler tend to tilt
If you had to decide between the Ender5 Plus and Artillery Sidewinder which would you pick for first time user?
I have never used the Ender 5 Plus so I can't say. The Sidewinder X1 works, you just need to be careful with it. More so than a Creality printer which is sad.
Is the one on the Genius better? I am dozens of prints, hundreds of hours, no problem. But it is very tight.
Hi. I am having some trouble with my 3D printer. I have a Folgertech FT 5 R2 and I am getting what looks like some small minor underextrusion or filament skipping in the layers and also extrusion inconsistencies throughout my prints. I am using Makergeek’s PLA with the printer’s original extruder. I have already change the print speed setting from the default, which was print speeds of 60 mm/s, acceleration of 3000 mm/s^2 and jerk of 20 mm/s to the changed setting, print speeds of 30 mm/s, acceleration of 500 m/s^2 and jerk to 15 mm/s, from there being layer shifting and under extrusion problems at the default speed setting. this kind of worked but still my problem that I am asking about is still there. I don’t known if the problem is the filament, the extruder setup or my Cura Slicer Profile Settings. What is the best why way to solve this or a list of things I can try?
Go to Reddit and ask this question to the subreddit r/3dprinting. Much more reliable to get answers there
My runout filament cable came broken. I will need to replace. How do I route the new cable from the connector to the sensor? Thank you.
It looks like it goes through the extrusion.
Are you sure it's V5? I can only find the latest model as V4. Please advise thanks.
I'm somewhat surprised that you didn't mention the lack of an all metal heat break as a potential issue.
An easy enough upgrade, but something that I wish they would come with out of the gate!
I haven't noticed that to be an issue yet. If I was doing high temp filament maybe but PETG is normally the hottest thing I print at 235C
Since you don't recommend this printer what printer would you recommend that print 300x300?
The creality cr 10 v2 is great but also a tad more expensive
Mine will finish a print and then won't go home it set down on top of the print ruining it. Anyone know how to fix that
Mine came tightened so far that the adjustment wheel sapped apart!
If those are the problems then its not a big deal to me. I can live with those issues and fix them as needed but I did order an extruder arm just to be safe.
While I agree the arms is not the best and a Metal Arm would be nice this printer has been an absolute joy to own. The filament change option is great, and almost eliminates the need to push the arm at all, and as you stated the tension knob at the back of the arm needs to be loosened. It appears to me that you just received a dud machine, which happens, Look at Angus from Makers Muse he hated the Ender 3 because of all the issues he had but everyone else loved it!
Does the smaller version Genus have the same issue?
Hello , where can I buy the nozzle for this 3d printer ? 0,6 mm
Ebay. Buy a long titan style one.
any solution video will come?
Can only find version 4 as latest, version 5?
No official versions mate. More then 30 'versions' with all the iterations already seen myself. Probably there have been more.
4 apparently is the latest per the comments here. I was told mine was v5 per the FB group.
so salty over a couple pretty small issues with extremely easy fixes. you really shouldn't wiggle or mess with ribbon cables that carry electricity while the machine is on .
Mine just broke today! It really is a weak part of the Artillery X and they haven't even included a spare part in my case!
Really? There should have been 1 spare.
Hi Thanks for the video. I decided to get a X1 and wanted to ask if the hex screws are metric or Imperial. I wanted to pick up a tool kit for it. Thanks.
Metric
Print that part with nylon bridge Shane
You can go a little more on hotglue. Isopropyl makes removal effortless.
so in conclusion you dont know how to use ribbon cables, theres no reason they should be pulled on but in the unlikley event that they are or something gets caught or whatever itd by WAY preferable that it just disconnects rather than damaging the cable and/or board its connected to, the original models had them but they got removed, cost might of been the reason but as far as i see it its an improvement
I have mine for almost 2 weeks now, no problems yet. Thanks for the video
Got a SW X1, you don't need to touch the plastic arm to fill filament in, never had issues with cables, but nobody has the same story right ?
Most people push the arm like a lever, it's wrong way to use it, mostly you don't touch it and it goes perfect using the machine options to fill in and out...
With the cables, well, you were unlucky, bad day ^^
Any new issues you encountered?
In regards to the idle lever breaking, here's some advice I got from another X1 user:
*"When you get it from the factory, loosen it all the way and then tighten it till you can’t pull the filament out anymore. The issue is that people fail to do this and it’s too tight and breaks."*
I said I did this in the video and it still broke.
Seriously having a few quirks on a printer makes you investigate and learn more about 3d printing then you get the satisfaction of printing your first real world practical things that you can add to your printer to make it a better more reliable printer. No matter how you look at it 3d printing is not a plug and play hobby, bed and nozzle temperatures, material types, layer heights, supports. If your concerned about printing a few parts then and your not willing to learn a little then 3d printing is not for you it's not a star trek replicator. My first printer was a flashforge creator pro and I brought that at £500 because I listened someone on a forum talk about how it was better for "beginners" vs something you needed to mod so I ended up with a noisey rattle box with a build plate the size of a postage stamp that I still had to print parts fo!. When it comes to 3D printers beginners is a very relative term your only as beginner as you want to be. I have the sidewinder v4 and I love it compared to my creator pro. In fact I've just ordered a second one and giving serious consideration to getting a third just in case for some reason the company goes out of business in these turbulent times I'm also stocking up on a few replacement parts that's pretty much the best compliment I could give. Right now the Artillery sidewinder is to the FDM world what the Elegoo Mars/Saturn are to the SLA world. Now all they need to do is bring out a big core XY or a large Delta. 3D printing is addictive!!!.
Nice video. Thanks for the warnings.
thanks for the video!
Is there a single affordable printer on the market that you _don't_ need to mod for it to work reliably? I don't want to have to fix anything.
The Creality Ender 3 works right out of the gate. Also the Anycubic i3 Mega S is a great choice. 20 minutes to build and then you are off printing.
Shane you’re so dead on. I got this printer and it had all the issues you mentioned. I got pissed and rebuilt mine. You didn’t even mention the other big issue. The MKS GEN L clone board is junk, the screen is junk and they both have major issues. 1. You can’t save to eprom, 2. It’s 8 bit, 3. All the wiring for the screen is mismatched cable ends to the wrong plugs and is hot glued together. I replaced my board and screen with a Duet 2 WiFi and Panel Due... the hotend and extruder are both completely garbage. A PTFE lined Volcano? Lol. The Titan Aero is cheap and works fine, but the tension arm is crap, the job gear is crappy, the PTFE tube they send with it is garbage, oh... and the Pancake Motor, yeah it has a press fit PLASTIC drive gear on it. I replaced mine with a genuine Bondtech BMG-M and Slice Mosquito. I also added a EZABL. Even with all that, it still doesn’t print super good because of the Z leadscrews and the brass nuts are goofy and cause z banding. I took my belt off, and removed their leadscrew plastic assembly. It’s way better albeit not perfect.
I’m glad you called a spade a spade. This printer is good for most people. But for heavy or professional use it’s not.
And a professional wouldn't pay less than £300 for a work horse. Are people's expectations actually a bit OTT? As a hobby tool it's a bargain. We're makers FFS, these little hurdles are present on printers that cost more than twice as much. The new Prusa mini costs more than this and has had issues out of the gates. My full size Prusa needed loads of mods before I was happy with it.
You say "But for heavy or professional use it’s not." Why would you expect it to be? Are you kidding? Overstate the obvious much? Its a $400 printer from China (or wherever) competing with others in its class. That class has no place in production or engineering. What were you expecting when you ordered yours? You couldn't have really been surprised to discover its shortcomings unless you're a rookie at this and I doubt that you are. How about giving us a little detail about your leadscrew mod. That would be helpful. A sarcastic laundry list about what is wrong with it and why its junk is not.
@@ew7007 I appreciate your response. If you go to my channel you can see my printer. I am no noob. I've been printing forever (3 years :)... With that said this is my first Chinese printer. I have two Prusa's and a SeeMeCnc Artemis. I got this printer with the intention of just using the bed heater assembly and the frame. But I didn't realize how bad the ribbon connectors are. The ribbons are fine and durable even... it's the shotty Chinese soldering on the PCB's... it's like they are trying to build PCB's in the basement of their mom's house. The Z Banding is a Major issue. They for many reasons have bad z banding. My guess is that they have a combo of Bent lead screws, and/or inconsistent upright extrusions or even wobbly wheels. In my case it the way they try to Chin-Engineer a anti-backlash system for the lead-screw nuts. I removed this system and went to good old fashion leadscrew brass nuts and it helped a ton. They also have the two z lead screws (and two Z motors) connected at the top with gears and belts. This is generally a bad idea. If the they get out of sync and they do, the X Gantry will tilt and stay that way causing issues. IF they are separate like they are supposed to be you can do a "MAX_Z" with sensorless endstops enabled on the Max_Z and level the X Gantry to the top cross-member like its supposed to be before doing the MIN_Z with a endstop or probe. That's how Prusa keeps the motors in sync all the time and the gantry level.
@@thelightspeed3d712 Now that helps a ton. Thanks! I'll look into changing out the leadscrew nuts and employing the MAX_Z processes. I'm not trying to get Prusa grade quality but the Z banding is annoying as hell and something I want to address immediately as much as possible. The ribbon termination boards is a no brainer. I do appreciate your reply and follow up with good info. I'll check you your channel. Thanks again.
@@thelightspeed3d712 You paid twice as much and then some for the Prusa and still had to fully assemble it yourself. You are not comparing apples with apples. I modified my Prusa loads before I was happy with it. This printer is sub £300. Anyone with 2 brain cells to rub together must know it's either going to be good enough as a plaything or a fixer upper. With the money I spent on the X1 it still comes in cheaper than the Prusa and I'm infinitely happier with it than I ever have been with my MK 2.5.... because yes I paid a shit ton for a Prusa upgrade kit to address the short comings of the MK2.
Do you have a update discord link ?
discord.gg/TXK4YgK
Are all extruders universal???
is this the x1 v4? wonder if they fixed any of these issues
I clicked on this video to see if there were some things I could improve on my printer that maybe I hadn’t already easily printed and installed. But instead it’s literally just you bashing on this awesome printer...
Bashing something because it broke shortly after getting? How am I wrong?
That doesn't look like a v4 as I can't see the reset button next to the screen panel.
It is there.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting I couldn't see it in the video due to angle.
Have to get a bit suspicious when there's exclusively positive reviews so this was refreshing.
Positive review = free of charge product most of the time
thanks for the honest review sir.
Can any one tell me where I can buy a genuine artillery sw X1 v4 urgently?
@Ivan King ツ thanks bought it 8months ago.
It shouldn't come with a second, I am with you
Your getting alot of criticism in the comments. Chep highlighted the same issues as you too. Maybe they haven't seen his review.
Thanks for showing the gluegun tip too. I'll be doing that when mine arrives.
Chep never sayed, "do not buy this printer" as this reviewer did.
Has it changed, is the product worth it nowadays?
I bought mine 4 months ago, and I haven't had any manufacturing issues with it. It's been wonderful, significantly better and nicer to use than my first printer was. I highly recommend it.
I'm completely agrre. The printer machine works really good. But, it comes with a lot of little issues. By my part. I had this printer like one moth ago. In one month, y had a problem with the wires of Z motor, they come almost broken. The cooler started to make noise. I had a problem also with the printed pieces that I tried to make. Looks like an obstruction. I change the pieces of the extruder and it started to work fine untill I tried to make a piece with some altitude. And an obstruction again, probably because a problem of the motor cause it is impossible to have again an obstruction so quick. The people that have this machine are in general happy, maybe the mine one is a defective one. But to many problems in just one month of use.
Why is your printer so crooked?
Question, since this uses an E3D Titan clone why not just order an original Titan idler arm from E3D? They're only like $10 US. Or is there a reason it won't fit? It would certainly be more reliable and durable than the Asian knockoff. Overall your's is not a bad video about these issues but its hard to understand what you're trying to say. You say its "a pretty fantastic machine" but you recommend people not to buy it. I need a second machine and after lots and lots of research I think its going to be this one. In my opinion its strengths outweigh the faults. Any printer with these features that is under $500 is going to have some issues. My concern is finding something with a strong foundation that has room for some upgrades and modifications.
Had it for a year now issues
Mine works fine
Maybe you got a manday made maskin, bc I had have one x1 for a while now and I had just minor isues.
maybe I got a god one. :)
Your "review" or troubleshoot video for the SWX1 is kinda criticism on a very high level. This is a printer for 400$ or less. What do you expect? A part, that can break after 200+ hours? No problem, just print a new one...
The fried pin? Rather not a "normal" failure, every product has some problems sometimes.
I don't know what the hell brought you to do this "review", problems out of the box? What is the difference if you buy this thing for 400 and upgrade some parts or if you buy the printer for 500$ from the factory?
This isn't my final review. This is me addressing 2 big issues with the printer that caused it not to function at all very quickly.
They sell a metal replacement and it's much better it's only $20 on Amazon
My printer is stock going 2 years strong, especially with no idler arm breaks. Need to be gentle 😉
From what I have seen, the older versions had a better arm than the v4.
Хороший ты мужик, привет из России.
Thank you i nearly brought one wish
creality cr10 s5 was direct drive
thankyou!! I'm so tired if all these facebook bandwagoners trying to say dont change anything it's perfect from the factory lol if I lined up 10 printers they probably couldnt tell me what one is good or bad
im watching this after ordering mine :(
Just buy a metal arm and put a dab of hot glue on the joints of the ribbon cables. Any half-wit can do that. I just ordered one for my brand new printer and I'm gonna break out my hot glue gun now.
I haven't had any manufacturer issues with mine (a v4) so far, and I've owned it for about 4 months now. It's been miles better than my first printer was, and I highly recommend it.
Fugatech 3D Printing
said: "I wouldn't have made this video if I was the only one having this issue. Many don't have issues but going through the FB group, many have the exact same issues I have. "
Fugatech 3D Printing That mean you never was on other 3D printers FB groups or other places, becouse every one have some problems, just like Don Gray said to you. I think you have some reason on personal level giving to all rest of us viewers bad opinion about Artillery printing. I have TRONXY printer and had much more problems then you had with this one, but I taking that for normal, becouse nobody force me to buy printer for 200$ instead almoust perfect Prusa for 1.000$. You can't even compare Prusa directly with Sidwinder becouse Prusa don't have some features which Sidewinder have. And acording that, if Prusa will make printer to be at same feature range like Sidewinder, it will cost about 1.500$+ and THEN you can complain about lever and other minor things ( which you get spare one with Sidewinder for free). Your review just make me closer to buying Sidewinder becouse if you find just that problems on that lovely machine, it is a winner for me. Also, thank you, I will buy alloy lever same moment I will buy Sidevinder X1 ( next week)
It is what it is. I hope you don't have the issues I did.
Why don't they just fix the small issues, they are almost effortless to fix. Perhaps they don't read English that much. One thing worth notice is that there are very few people even heard of this brand in China. My guess is that [Don't read English]+[No user base in China]=. Perhaps nowadays this company still believes that every design on this printer works fine.
Sooo... He broke it not paying attention.... There is no V5.... I will say the heat break is crap though.
I think this 2 isues are bad but yuo can solved...anyway for that money and quality yuo must excpect some isues..and for yuo new in the 3d printing world: if yuo have this machine , put some hot glue and buy the metal idler.Problem solved.Great Prints, after all
Wait, someone that doesn't know the lever doesn't ever have to be touched is giving recommendations exclaiming "Watch this before buying the Artillery Sidewinder X1!!" Notice it comes complete with TWO (count'em, TWO) exclamation marks!! Pathetic.
You are posting this in 2020...
* Idler: problem is fixed from factory in current versions. Of course they CAN break and wear as they are consumable items though, but normally they will last long
* ribbon: problem is fixed from factory with newer boards so that more wires are used.
Of course there are still some older ones out there but new orders should get the updated ones without problems. Just order directly from factory though.
And: the first ones did not have these problems with the idlers and also not the ribbons, just got there in later changes.
About the subboard: don't just replace ONE but you need to replace both or you will just get problems with the ribbon-cables, probably even more then first. The latest versions are different.
I was supposedly sent the most recent version. (People say that because it has a reset button) So having the idler break twice, the second being the "new design" they sent me and the fried ribbon cable says it hasn't been fixed.
The idler is not a consumable. No idea where you get that fact from. I have 2 legit E3D Titans and they have never broken in the 3+ years of use and have several thousand of hours of printing on them.
Do the new boards have better connectors on it? If not, I don't think they last long. Ob my printer the 30pin connector gets really hot on one spot on both ends. Thr marking on the board says V1.6. I'm planning to exchange the connectors with better ones. But all in all I would buy the printer again.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Ok, so you did not get the latest version of the subboards that is for sure. Since the factory does not have official versions there is no way to check from the box, but you have to measure it yourself and count the wires. There should be 2 sets of 4 wires on both sides of the X-ribboncable if you have the latest version.
Same for the idler: it is much stronger in the newer versions. I believe they shipped that from november 2019 or start of december only. Before that you had one of the 'between versions'.
I have one - amongst newer - of the oldest ones and they have strong idlers like the last ones (from november-december). And yes, I call them consumables because they will wear out like the heatbread, nozzles, wires and gears.
i have printed some on spares and they only break when I have a problem like a stuck filament (on the spool or in the sensor or other guide) or press to hard myself on the idler. Well better to break the idler then for example the motor or its bearings which you cannot print yourself or buy for about 60 cents online.
The reset-button has been there since beginning of the summer by the way, so a long way back for this printer that has been updated all the time since 2018, still sold under the same name and version. There are more then 30 different 'versions' from it that I have seen and for the last months it seems to be stable and 'end product', all the times improving on the feedback of customers and replacing parts for free for at least the first 3 months after buying from factory.
First ones came with the gripping on the ribboncables but that has changed after that, probably because of consumer-problems that did not know how to fit the ribbon-cables the right way and went for a simpler solution for installing.
@@bene3445 The connectors themselfs have not changed since the previous version of these for as far as I noticed, but the wirering has changed. Therefore you need to replace both boards at once to prevent melting and shortconnects.
On the latest pre-version there were 4 connections for the + on one side, one gap and 3 connections for the (switched) - for the heater. The 'gap' on some boards (like the latest iteration before the last) is connected on the other side to the + ... On the newer boards (november-december 2019), there is no more gap between + and - (so you have to set the cables correctly !) and you have 4 connections for the + followed by 4 connections for the - of the heater.
So, if you have the old board with the + on the connection of the 'gap' on the right and have the newest board on the left, you have a direct short when you turn on the heater.
There are no different versions written on the boards though so you have to count wires / connections or get both at the same time as a new ribbon cable (that is also a bit different then in the previous sub-version that were shipped in september-oktober).
(Yes, this printer is more exiting then a soap on TV!)
@@elvinhaak Spare Boards are on the way. I'll change them all or at least I'll conduct measure them and follow the traces. My plan still is to exchange the connectors on the boards
Thank you for spitting out some truth!
Sounds to me that you are a heavy handed cave man who is never happy with anything unless you have broken it and then made it better. Thousands of these sold all over the world without people replacing, modifying or upgrading any parts at all. Its a very delicate precise piece of machinery. Like any other printer. It not a car! OK rant over 😆
too much bla... you don't need to push this lever anyways... so how could it break LoL
i go for a channel who doesn't only print dust catchers...
17 min of whining... It is a DIY kit , why didn't you see this?
Oh, because u got it together for like 20min? And did not care for details.. but ofc it would fail.
Those are your mistakes
I guess thanks for watching the full video? Poorly produced parts is the issue. Real E3D Titan idler arms don't break.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting But they are also way more expensive. For the price and specs, don't expect anything more. A clone Titan extruder is better than no Titan extruder.
Why even the negative reviews seem positive. What is with the western world holding the hands of these companies. So frustrating. These guys know what they are doing, there is no passion and no consideration. They are faceless entities just slinging junk. No CEO no face. Let us sell a crappy item cheap as possible and see what the westerners are willing to fix.
Anyways I am a long time subscriber, and usually do not comment. I just hate these "hey China needs to fix this" when it actually should be.... "these guys suck don't buy it"
So what "western world" engineered and manufactured "CEO face" showing company's printer would you recommend with this feature set for $500 or less? No, really. Which one? I don't see or hear a bunch of hand holding here (or anywhere for that matter). I see people trying to save money and taking up (mostly) the challenge of fixing the problems that most buyers understand in advance that they're going to have with a Eastern World clone.
What features do you need? Prusa works right out of the box. $350.
@@iheart3dprinting951 The Prusa Mini? Really? Less than half the build volume. Keep trying.
@@ew7007 You're missing the point entirely.
@@iheart3dprinting951 you're right. I have no idea what point you mean. Enlighten me.