Artillery3d's site appears to be down, along with their firmware download page. Been that way for at least a week now. Glad for your pre-configured copy!
I just got this printer yesterday and I've already fallen in love with it. I've had a Cr-10S, i3 Mega-S, Ender 3 Pro, Monoprice Voxel and this one is slick. I really really like it so far.
I have one arriving next week, really hyped. I have a flash forge finder which has been excellent, an anycubic kossell which is good and a JGArora A5 which has been a bloody disaster...
I opened my Sidewinder up and every possible connection to the main board was slathered in hot glue. I picked at it with tweezers and dabbed some 70% IPA on it with a Q-tip and managed to remove what I needed. I get that they need to make sure the printer's ok for shipping but oh my god did that suck lol. Great video!
@Teaching Tech Ya Same Artillery Down. I purchased your copy for 5 Dollars Canadian. Thanks Michael. Please Keep up the great work my Friend! Love your channel!
Great comparison Michael, thank you. It seems the the Touch Mi performs very well, especially for the lower price. Personally I still prefer the BLTouch, being self-contained it is not reliant on external mechanics like the magnet.
If I see right, the existing ribboncable has 4 wires used for lightning (12V, R, G, B). You might simply change the LED to a neopixel using 5V, GND and Signal - so you get 1 wire of the existing ribbon cable free. As a Mi touch also use 5V and GND, the free line would be enough for output signal. So no extra cabling needed, you can go on with the original nice ribbon cables. Also when using BL-Touch: - Change coldend fan to 5V - Power coldend fan, BL-Touch and neopixel from this 5V (maybe use capacitators to stabilice power if the fan disturbs stability). - from the 4 lines of the former led use one to control the neopixel and the other 3 for the BL-Touch. Have not checked it now, but this might be a way to avoid changing the nice outfit of the printer...
Nice video! For me, an inductive sensor is still the best option. It's very repeatable, and no parts can break. Best of all, it's under 10$. Firmware is easy to set up if you're following Tech2's video on these sonsors.
An added note, for the wiring, you can actually utilize the LED chip wiring for the BL touch, by relocating two connectors on the main board. You do lose the LED chip but now you have super clean wiring, with zero added wires. No modifications to connectors are required either. Look up “Waggster Mod” here in RUclips.
Have to call you out on you X3D link, I have ordered many times from these guys as I am in Perth also including expensive 3D printers and I have never received a free anything from them. I think that's just something said to get orders. Thanks for the video mate.
That's great news! Well done! By the way, maybe putting the magnet on a small servo which it's pulling it up after initially dropping the needle could prevent deploying it when the x go close on printing?
This review is excellent.As usual all content from you is very comprehensive that’s why I subscribe to your channel. I am relatively new to 3d printing and 3d printers. I know this content is over a year old, does it still apply for the newest version of the Artillery sidewinder X1.? I want to fit ABL to my printer, any recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
will you please do more videos with this printer... i now own one and i have learned so much from you on the ender 3 but this one was a bit more and would like to do more with it.
I know its old, but I wonder if there is a way to re design the PCBs on the X and Y axis to take the plugs right there on the extruder assy. That way one could keep the nice cable management even better. And maybe update the newer versions to include the locking ribbon cables.
As always, great instructions! How about a video on uStepper. I bought 2 of the uStepper S with 3D shields and can't figure how to get them to work. Looks like a great product but needs better instructions.
have you tried using the actual conductors on the factory installed ribbon that are meant for the LED, and re wire them to use those for the BL sensor ?? this would disable the LED but the BL add functionality...
@Teaching Tech Help! I have Have a plug with 3 brown wires going from the servo pins right in line with the Z min stop pins to the ribbon cable? Mine is a V4 Printer. Any idea what these are about? Thanks
Thank you for the updated video I don't know if you read but you can disable the LED light and use the wires in the ribbon But then you lose the LED light but if you're okay with that just move to LED lights wires to the positions that you had in your video
Hello: I bought the Touch Mi and brought 3 cables to install it in the Ender 3 but the Z control has a 2-wire pin, this sensor has 3. Where is it connected? Thank you
Maybe I don't know what I'm looking for but I don't see any link to the custom icons to set up baby stepping and "Save to EEPROM". Also, I can't get the auto-level icon to show up and don't get the ability to run auto-level from the tft.
Great Video, i plan to use your help to add a bl touch if i get the other issues worked out, terrible banding. Where did you find the fix they offered?
Great video as always. I have one of these printers on the way. My preference would be to send gcode direct via usb cable from Repetier Host running on my PC. However, I note the TFT screen had to be disconnected for you to update the software. So, my question is, am I able to run as I described or do I have to walk a job on a USB stick all the time?
I just don't understand... mine will home x and y then goes z, z, and stops... the probe goes in and out a couple of times at the start but ends UP, not down ready to probe...?
Now I recently got my Artillery genius and it has a cable management solution for the bl touch. If you remove the X-carriage cover you should see the pins for the bl touch. I don’t know if it’s the same for the X1 but I assume it’s the same.
Can I upgrade the TFT & Printer with the baby step function / M500 Eeprom save without FW changes for the BLtouch in case I don't want it? (My bed is dead flat, I see no need for the BL touch)
I have this set up and uploaded the firmware from TeachingTech for both the main board and the TFT, however I now get an occasional EEPROM datasize error and the screen that is supposed to have the baby steps and only on or off for the LE still has buttons for all 4 colors. In the Arduino IDE it said upload complete but never gave any more info, I thought I would get a final list of data after the upload.... Any help?
Good comparison! I'm currently using a 3Dtouch which works really really well. Although sometimes it doesn't want to work. I have ordered two proximity sensors now to see if I can use those since they seem to be simpler and more reliable. Meanwhile if I manage to get the proximity sensors to work, I will try to solder the wires directly onto my 3Dtouch to see if that improves anything. Next week my crimp tool and box of DuPont connectors are rolling in and I'll be able to completely rewire my machine (most cables are still way too long which causes immense clutter and probably maybe even introduces noise). Would you have any advice for improving my 3Dtouch sensor? If it works, it works really well and I wouldn't want to ditch the module honestly.
Yes, in the babystepping part of marlin there is a z offset line to uncomment. I've shown this in any of my other ABL vids where the printer had a regular LCD.
@@TeachingTech I just tried this about a week ago with a fresh copy of marlin 1.9 and it didn't work. It would save the values to eeprom but it never did the babystepping in real time. Only when I commented the z offset line out it did the babystepping again.
Mike, may I ask why you seem to have totally given up on the TH3D EZABL? I've used both there doesn't seem to be too much difference in results. Is it the price or shipping cost
sorry but absolute noob here regarding flashing new firmware onto printers, i downloaded the firmware and get that part with the TFT screen flashing but what about the second "bltouch" folder with the marlin folder? i never worked with arduino before so do i just need a special program to compile it and put it onto the sd card aswell?.. i dont get it, pls help
Is there anyway to use the live z offset while using octoprint? Ive noticed octoprint doesnt take over the TFT so the printer doesnt know its printing at all from that aspect and live z adjustments arent available to me.
Yes, you can set the Z endstop point in the firmware. For example " #define Z_MIN_POS -1.5 " Will allow you to go 1.5mm below the trigger point. This is a setting usually for ABL only, but -0.1 or -0.2mm is safe with most sensors.
Michael - did you see on the Facebook group the images of a newly designed board that incorporates a BL Touch port - it looks like this will replace the board on the left of the extruder and will utilise the existing ribbon cable
Just to be clear auto bed leveling is not needed unless your having issues. This printer unlike the ender 3 does not lose level. I have had it for awhile now and have not had to level the bed after the first setup. Save your money for filament!
Thank you very much for such a great guide! Has anyone experienced an issue where the printer starts heating up, but doesn't reflect the temperature ramping up on the screen? Also, even though the temperature reaches the set points for both extruder and bed, the printer screen does not show it and print does not start. Any ideas?
i followed this guide but the leveling seems to leave a 2 mm gap between nozzle and bed. tried to do the lowering trick but as soon as auto leveling starts it goes back to the gap. as well as hotend fan never comes on. Any advice?
Added a Mosaic Pallet 2 Pro to my Arty. Don't know if I'll add auto level as the bed is pretty solid as is. Only gripe has been rather disappointing quality control.
What do you do if you have a 3 pin all brown wire going to the servo location ? I dont see it in this vid at all and dont want to disconnect it incase I start a nuclear reaction somehow lol
What are you providing behind your firmware link? The ready to download FW or this plus the configuration files which would allow making further changes?
I own both printers and the cr-10s Pro was much finicky to get setup also I did a ton of mods to it just to get decent prints the way I wanted them. I added bl touch to it changed to a micro swiss all metal hot end added a ton of printed upgrades changed the bed to glass because the stock pei sheet dont release the prints very easily also added a heat sink to the ssr relay. My sidewinder x1 printed just fine right out of the box but after a month the fuse burnt out on the power supply rendering it unusable. I did solder in a new fuse and fixed it but I didn't put it back in i upgraded to a meanwell power supply and put the stock power supply on the shelf as a spare. Wile I was in there I made a custom heatsink for the ssr relay and then added the bl touch. I did do a roller upgrade for the spool and a longer are for the filiment runout sensor and the sidewinder x1 is by far my favorite printer out of the 2. Hands down the direct drive with volcano style hotend beats the Bowden tube and micro-swiss I also forgot the cr-10s pro extruder gears were skipping and I saw the gear became loose and it was chewing up my filiment I did fix the issue and have seen this is a common problem my conclusion is they both print very well when the proper attention is given to them but the sidewinder x1 is a better overall printer much cheaper even with a bltouch and the power supply I still came in much cheaper for a better printer
You should try another approach on Touch Mi. Change its position to the right side of the extruder and trigger the probe by going to the X+ limit. First, perform a G28 and then go to X max position to trigger the probe if needed. I don't think you're reaching X max position on a daily basis when printing so you should be on the safe side and not accidentaly triggering the probe and ruin your work.
You know what would be even better would be to add a raspberry pi to control the printer and make or find a plugin for the save to eprom (or type it in the command terminal) but add a small extra little Arduino 90 motor and have that move the magnet out of the way after the command that moves the ball, then bam after the print is done have the little 90 degree motor move the magnet back so it’s ready for the next print
Michael, is there any plans to do a Marlin vs Klipper firmware video at any stage? Would be interested to see whether Klipper makes as big a difference as people are claiming
It does, but mostly on better machines printing at much higher speeds. You can get decent prints at this speed on a dialed-in potato with Marlin, but 120+ with 6k+ accel and you need klipper's motion planning. Modern Marlin is good enough where on machines like these you're mostly limited by kinematics, so any quality issues are either caused by going too fast for the machine's envelope, dial-in issues, slicing errors or a fundamental borkedness of the potato in question :) In comparison, voron2 with klipper is actually limited by the hotend.
I have tried updating my lcd multiple times the memory card way does not work not sure why is there another way? It reads the card because I can see the files on the card it just never updates the screen
The link provided for the BLTouch firmware is dead. Now what? Is this firmware still available? Or has Artillery deleted it because BLT is now available on the X2?
I have tried to download the firmware that was free. A request for a download goes to a web site that asks for a donation. I have no problem with this and would gladly pay with Paypal where my risks are minimal. However while Paypal is an option on the checkout page when checked, information is flashed that Paypal is not functioning. I have great reluctance to give out credit card particulars to a web page that I have never heard of before. Please inform me as to how I can get this software as your youtube presentations are without fail helpful, easy to understand and also entertaining.
So let me get this straight...you basically babystep the nozzle while printing...and when you save it will auto keep the Z offset? Could this be done on a regular encoder screen? Babystep while printing and than save?
AirsoftSlo Yes, if you can put the code in place. Do a search for the display type you use and find the firmware and instructions to add the code. It’s the same principle as this TFT display.
A vase isnt a good example of Z banding..its one layer so it always looks good..i didnt realize that at first either..my vases look great but i have terrible z banding issues..try to print a straight tall vertical wall and see the difference..
Great! The LCD update alone is worth so much. Thank's for showing that.
Artillery3d's site appears to be down, along with their firmware download page. Been that way for at least a week now. Glad for your pre-configured copy!
I emailed them and they linked me to: github.com/artillery3d/sidewinder-x1-firmware and github.com/artillery3d/sidewinder-x1-tft-firmware
I just got this printer yesterday and I've already fallen in love with it. I've had a Cr-10S, i3 Mega-S, Ender 3 Pro, Monoprice Voxel and this one is slick. I really really like it so far.
I have one arriving next week, really hyped. I have a flash forge finder which has been excellent, an anycubic kossell which is good and a JGArora A5 which has been a bloody disaster...
I just got mine today and the first print is perfect. I can't wait to see what it can really do.
Dear friend, thank you very much for your great review.
Finally MKS Babystepping! Being searching for this command like crazy! Thank you!!
Glad to help.
Thanks for this. I was just, today, looking at what I needed to do. Your timing could not have been better. Purchased firmware. Great work!!!
I opened my Sidewinder up and every possible connection to the main board was slathered in hot glue. I picked at it with tweezers and dabbed some 70% IPA on it with a Q-tip and managed to remove what I needed. I get that they need to make sure the printer's ok for shipping but oh my god did that suck lol.
Great video!
AS usual excellent Video. Thank You! Looking for a large volume printer and the Artillery looks like a good choice.
thanks for your support. if like our printer, you may contact me, we will do our best. tracy@artillery3d.com
You added baby stepping and leveled like a boss... mind blown.
Waiting for my X1 in the mail. Aparently its the newest batch, which hopefully has the fixes.
@Teaching Tech Ya Same Artillery Down. I purchased your copy for 5 Dollars Canadian. Thanks Michael. Please Keep up the great work my Friend! Love your channel!
Great comparison Michael, thank you. It seems the the Touch Mi performs very well, especially for the lower price. Personally I still prefer the BLTouch, being self-contained it is not reliant on external mechanics like the magnet.
If I see right, the existing ribboncable has 4 wires used for lightning (12V, R, G, B). You might simply change the LED to a neopixel using 5V, GND and Signal - so you get 1 wire of the existing ribbon cable free. As a Mi touch also use 5V and GND, the free line would be enough for output signal.
So no extra cabling needed, you can go on with the original nice ribbon cables.
Also when using BL-Touch:
- Change coldend fan to 5V
- Power coldend fan, BL-Touch and neopixel from this 5V (maybe use capacitators to stabilice power if the fan disturbs stability).
- from the 4 lines of the former led use one to control the neopixel and the other 3 for the BL-Touch.
Have not checked it now, but this might be a way to avoid changing the nice outfit of the printer...
Could yo do a similar great tutorial for the artillery genius too? I haven't seen so much information on the Internet
it's pretty much the same printer though. Everything that you saw here applies to that printer as well :)
Whats your viewer to see the mks_pic bin files as a picture?
Good question. I can't see the bin files either.
Thanks for this! Now I have another summer project, after I solve extruder issues on my Ender 3.
Nice video! For me, an inductive sensor is still the best option. It's very repeatable, and no parts can break. Best of all, it's under 10$. Firmware is easy to set up if you're following Tech2's video on these sonsors.
Thanks for an awesome head-to-head comparison!
Thank you!!, finally I can use baby step on my ender3+tft28
Couldn’t you just put a rotating joint or swing mount on the magnet arm to allow it to move out of the way once the ABL is done?
Can you link the ribbon cable you are going to use? Will there be a video on that process?
An added note, for the wiring, you can actually utilize the LED chip wiring for the BL touch, by relocating two connectors on the main board. You do lose the LED chip but now you have super clean wiring, with zero added wires. No modifications to connectors are required either. Look up “Waggster Mod” here in RUclips.
I downloaded your preconfigured bl touch firmware but don’t see a hex file anywhere to load up into the printer.
Have to call you out on you X3D link, I have ordered many times from these guys as I am in Perth also including expensive 3D printers and I have never received a free anything from them. I think that's just something said to get orders. Thanks for the video mate.
Nice test/review
Thanks for sharing😀👍
Hello today, which version of the BLU Touch would give the best result for an Artillery x1.
Just awesome. Thanks for this comprehensive video.
hi, could you please share the z coupler fix files?
do you know of a good step by step install video that you can link me to for the x1side winder and the bl touch ?
That's great news! Well done! By the way, maybe putting the magnet on a small servo which it's pulling it up after initially dropping the needle could prevent deploying it when the x go close on printing?
This review is excellent.As usual all content from you is very comprehensive that’s why I subscribe to your channel. I am relatively new to 3d printing and 3d printers. I know this content is over a year old, does it still apply for the newest version of the Artillery sidewinder X1.? I want to fit ABL to my printer, any recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
will you please do more videos with this printer... i now own one and i have learned so much from you on the ender 3 but this one was a bit more and would like to do more with it.
I know its old, but I wonder if there is a way to re design the PCBs on the X and Y axis to take the plugs right there on the extruder assy. That way one could keep the nice cable management even better. And maybe update the newer versions to include the locking ribbon cables.
As always, great instructions! How about a video on uStepper. I bought 2 of the uStepper S with 3D shields and can't figure how to get them to work. Looks like a great product but needs better instructions.
have you tried using the actual conductors on the factory installed ribbon that are meant for the LED, and re wire them to use those for the BL sensor ??
this would disable the LED but the BL add functionality...
@Teaching Tech Help! I have Have a plug with 3 brown wires going from the servo pins right in line with the Z min stop pins to the ribbon cable? Mine is a V4 Printer. Any idea what these are about?
Thanks
Thank you for the updated video I don't know if you read but you can disable the LED light and use the wires in the ribbon But then you lose the LED light but if you're okay with that just move to LED lights wires to the positions that you had in your video
Jafterdark, do you know where can I find more about repurposing the led wiring?
@@miguelm4845 facebook.com/groups/2277023895866486/?ref=group_header
Hello: I bought the Touch Mi and brought 3 cables to install it in the Ender 3 but the Z control has a 2-wire pin, this sensor has 3. Where is it connected? Thank you
Maybe I don't know what I'm looking for but I don't see any link to the custom icons to set up baby stepping and "Save to EEPROM". Also, I can't get the auto-level icon to show up and don't get the ability to run auto-level from the tft.
Great Video, i plan to use your help to add a bl touch if i get the other issues worked out, terrible banding. Where did you find the fix they offered?
Great video as always. I have one of these printers on the way. My preference would be to send gcode direct via usb cable from Repetier Host running on my PC. However, I note the TFT screen had to be disconnected for you to update the software. So, my question is, am I able to run as I described or do I have to walk a job on a USB stick all the time?
i have managed to do this but i dont know if im just being thick but how can i manually level the bed
Hello. Can you make a video whit bl touch and the waggester methode ? It can be connected where the led is connected .
I just don't understand... mine will home x and y then goes z, z, and stops... the probe goes in and out a couple of times at the start but ends UP, not down ready to probe...?
Z offset (babystepping I guess) can go as fine as 0.01 and I've found the need for that resolution. M851 Zx.xx will change it via terminal.
For this printer I actually set a guestimate via terminal in this manner before doing a final live adjust during the print.
Hi I follow you guide but when i plug in usb nothing run just black screen. Could you help out please.
Now I recently got my Artillery genius and it has a cable management solution for the bl touch. If you remove the X-carriage cover you should see the pins for the bl touch. I don’t know if it’s the same for the X1 but I assume it’s the same.
No only the genius has it
Can I upgrade the TFT & Printer with the baby step function / M500 Eeprom save without FW changes for the BLtouch in case I don't want it? (My bed is dead flat, I see no need for the BL touch)
How do you view the .bin icons on your pc? Please
I have this set up and uploaded the firmware from TeachingTech for both the main board and the TFT, however I now get an occasional EEPROM datasize error and the screen that is supposed to have the baby steps and only on or off for the LE still has buttons for all 4 colors. In the Arduino IDE it said upload complete but never gave any more info, I thought I would get a final list of data after the upload.... Any help?
Thank you for the video. How do you set up high speed probing on Bltouch?
Good comparison! I'm currently using a 3Dtouch which works really really well. Although sometimes it doesn't want to work. I have ordered two proximity sensors now to see if I can use those since they seem to be simpler and more reliable. Meanwhile if I manage to get the proximity sensors to work, I will try to solder the wires directly onto my 3Dtouch to see if that improves anything. Next week my crimp tool and box of DuPont connectors are rolling in and I'll be able to completely rewire my machine (most cables are still way too long which causes immense clutter and probably maybe even introduces noise). Would you have any advice for improving my 3Dtouch sensor? If it works, it works really well and I wouldn't want to ditch the module honestly.
You are probeing the z offset with babbystepping and save to eeprom. (Time9.44 min)
Is this also possible with marlin?
Yes, in the babystepping part of marlin there is a z offset line to uncomment. I've shown this in any of my other ABL vids where the printer had a regular LCD.
@@TeachingTech I just tried this about a week ago with a fresh copy of marlin 1.9 and it didn't work. It would save the values to eeprom but it never did the babystepping in real time. Only when I commented the z offset line out it did the babystepping again.
Большое спасибо за очень классную работу , очень помогло .!!!
Mike, may I ask why you seem to have totally given up on the TH3D EZABL? I've used both there doesn't seem to be too much difference in results. Is it the price or shipping cost
I made a comparison video between it and the bltouch a while ago. It worked well but printer went to a new owner.
sorry but absolute noob here regarding flashing new firmware onto printers, i downloaded the firmware and get that part with the TFT screen flashing but what about the second "bltouch" folder with the marlin folder? i never worked with arduino before so do i just need a special program to compile it and put it onto the sd card aswell?.. i dont get it, pls help
You should do a update on this and use the RGB LED wires for the bl touch
Was thinking the same thing; no reason one couldn't hijack the signal for ABL
@@HewroPreez It's already done see this ruclips.net/video/ynm8inRMVkE/видео.html
Is there anyway to use the live z offset while using octoprint? Ive noticed octoprint doesnt take over the TFT so the printer doesnt know its printing at all from that aspect and live z adjustments arent available to me.
is possible to do only the "babystepping" mod. in the firmware, without the bltouch?
Nope, whitout an auto levelling sensor, the Z hits the end-stop, you can not go belove that point.
Yes, you can set the Z endstop point in the firmware. For example " #define Z_MIN_POS -1.5 " Will allow you to go 1.5mm below the trigger point. This is a setting usually for ABL only, but -0.1 or -0.2mm is safe with most sensors.
Am I right in assuming that this is going to work just the same for the genius, after adjusting parameters for bed size?
yes but there are extra Pins on the extrudor-pcb. so you dont need custom wiring
Michael - did you see on the Facebook group the images of a newly designed board that incorporates a BL Touch port - it looks like this will replace the board on the left of the extruder and will utilise the existing ribbon cable
No but that sounds amazing!
Yes a fully integrated solution will be great but I really like the design of your mount
Link?
testing starts at 9:03
Just to be clear auto bed leveling is not needed unless your having issues. This printer unlike the ender 3 does not lose level. I have had it for awhile now and have not had to level the bed after the first setup. Save your money for filament!
Jim Maddox +1
Great video!
Thank you very much for such a great guide! Has anyone experienced an issue where the printer starts heating up, but doesn't reflect the temperature ramping up on the screen? Also, even though the temperature reaches the set points for both extruder and bed, the printer screen does not show it and print does not start. Any ideas?
i followed this guide but the leveling seems to leave a 2 mm gap between nozzle and bed. tried to do the lowering trick but as soon as auto leveling starts it goes back to the gap. as well as hotend fan never comes on. Any advice?
Thx for your great effort !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Added a Mosaic Pallet 2 Pro to my Arty. Don't know if I'll add auto level as the bed is pretty solid as is. Only gripe has been rather disappointing quality control.
Quality control on the X1 or the palette? I've found this the best put together printer I've reviewed so far.
@@TeachingTech on the sidewinder. They are really good at support though. Just wish it came out without the scratches and zbanding.
What do you do if you have a 3 pin all brown wire going to the servo location ? I dont see it in this vid at all and dont want to disconnect it incase I start a nuclear reaction somehow lol
I have the same thing. I think you are supposed to use the other end stop connector to the left-j8 on connector D19 i believe. i have the same issue.
Awesome video, Michael! BTW, what is the target probe height for the BLtouch V2?
Can you add the link to STL calibration X you used ?
What are you providing behind your firmware link? The ready to download FW or this plus the configuration files which would allow making further changes?
Any advice on trying to add the BL to your4 cocoon create model maker?
I have a video on adding it to the coccoon create plus, that is the closest I can do without owning the model maker.
Would you recommend the X1 or the CR-10S Pro?
I have X1 my brother has CR-10
My brother wants my printer
I own both printers and the cr-10s Pro was much finicky to get setup also I did a ton of mods to it just to get decent prints the way I wanted them. I added bl touch to it changed to a micro swiss all metal hot end added a ton of printed upgrades changed the bed to glass because the stock pei sheet dont release the prints very easily also added a heat sink to the ssr relay. My sidewinder x1 printed just fine right out of the box but after a month the fuse burnt out on the power supply rendering it unusable. I did solder in a new fuse and fixed it but I didn't put it back in i upgraded to a meanwell power supply and put the stock power supply on the shelf as a spare. Wile I was in there I made a custom heatsink for the ssr relay and then added the bl touch. I did do a roller upgrade for the spool and a longer are for the filiment runout sensor and the sidewinder x1 is by far my favorite printer out of the 2. Hands down the direct drive with volcano style hotend beats the Bowden tube and micro-swiss I also forgot the cr-10s pro extruder gears were skipping and I saw the gear became loose and it was chewing up my filiment I did fix the issue and have seen this is a common problem my conclusion is they both print very well when the proper attention is given to them but the sidewinder x1 is a better overall printer much cheaper even with a bltouch and the power supply I still came in much cheaper for a better printer
I know this is an older video, but isn't there a way to utilize the LED connections for a touch sensor?
Search Waggster Mod on RUclips. I just set it up this way yesterday.
You should try another approach on Touch Mi. Change its position to the right side of the extruder and trigger the probe by going to the X+ limit. First, perform a G28 and then go to X max position to trigger the probe if needed. I don't think you're reaching X max position on a daily basis when printing so you should be on the safe side and not accidentaly triggering the probe and ruin your work.
You know what would be even better would be to add a raspberry pi to control the printer and make or find a plugin for the save to eprom (or type it in the command terminal) but add a small extra little Arduino 90 motor and have that move the magnet out of the way after the command that moves the ball, then bam after the print is done have the little 90 degree motor move the magnet back so it’s ready for the next print
This design seems to be not available on thingiverse. Is there any other place to download from?
What do you think of the way the wires were routed (thru LED plug) for the BLtouch on the Sidewinder X1?
ruclips.net/video/mZaZp3-A1lA/видео.html
I would assume the issue with your touch mi on the wham bam system is due to the magnets skewing results
Hi, can we expect the LV8729 vid any time soon?
Probably in the next couple of weeks. Need to publish videos for stuff sent to me first over that one which I pursued out of interest.
@@TeachingTech Thank you for the answer, I'm really lookin' forward to it!
Hi, has the configured BLtouch firmware been removed from the download file? I can’t seem to locate it.
Michael, is there any plans to do a Marlin vs Klipper firmware video at any stage? Would be interested to see whether Klipper makes as big a difference as people are claiming
It does, but mostly on better machines printing at much higher speeds. You can get decent prints at this speed on a dialed-in potato with Marlin, but 120+ with 6k+ accel and you need klipper's motion planning. Modern Marlin is good enough where on machines like these you're mostly limited by kinematics, so any quality issues are either caused by going too fast for the machine's envelope, dial-in issues, slicing errors or a fundamental borkedness of the potato in question :) In comparison, voron2 with klipper is actually limited by the hotend.
I'd love to see some actual modeling video :)
My printer dont comunicate with the pc, any idea of how to fix it?
what version of arduino ide works to compile the artillery firmware ? (sorry for dumb question!)
I can't get the babystep menu to show up on my printer. Any advice? I flashed everything I needed to flash and all of the files appear to be correct.
Ok. So printing from USB, baby steps shows up. Is there any way to get it to show up when printing from octoprint?
How about doing the same firmware additons for the ender 3 ok done it
any chance for a Genius bltouch firmware please?
Bonjour je vais recevoir bientot ma X1 j ai un touch mi mais je sais pas faire les codes etc comment puis je avoir le firware micro et ecran
Thanks
Does the X1 really need an autoleveller?
Enoch Root don’t think so. The bed is so heavy and well supported I only leveled it once and never looked at it again
I have tried updating my lcd multiple times the memory card way does not work not sure why is there another way? It reads the card because I can see the files on the card it just never updates the screen
Is your card larger than 32GB? I tried with an 128GB micro sd first and it did not work. Then i tried a 32GB card and it worked fine
Wonder if this setup will be same on genius???
this works great except for if you're using octoprint it messes up EEPROM datasize error
I'm having the same issue. Is there a fix? I do all my printing through octoprint.
@@bemuse far as I know no but there's no manual leveling either anymore so how do you manually level before you want to auto level
The link provided for the BLTouch firmware is dead. Now what?
Is this firmware still available? Or has Artillery deleted it because BLT is now available on the X2?
I have tried to download the firmware that was free. A request for a download goes to a web site that asks for a donation. I have no problem with this and would gladly pay with Paypal where my risks are minimal. However while Paypal is an option on the checkout page when checked, information is flashed that Paypal is not functioning. I have great reluctance to give out credit card particulars to a web page that I have never heard of before. Please inform me as to how I can get this software as your youtube presentations are without fail helpful, easy to understand and also entertaining.
what setting would you use for cure?
So let me get this straight...you basically babystep the nozzle while printing...and when you save it will auto keep the Z offset? Could this be done on a regular encoder screen? Babystep while printing and than save?
AirsoftSlo
Yes, if you can put the code in place. Do a search for the display type you use and find the firmware and instructions to add the code. It’s the same principle as this TFT display.
@@boggisthecat Ok cool. I already have that enabled. I just didnt know that by saving to eeprom you can store the babystep value.
A vase isnt a good example of Z banding..its one layer so it always looks good..i didnt realize that at first either..my vases look great but i have terrible z banding issues..try to print a straight tall vertical wall and see the difference..