VW Touareg Rear Brake Pad Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 6 янв 2022
- In this video I replace the rear brake pads on a 2012 VW Touraeg TDI. This should be the same process and hardware as a similar vintage Audi Q7 or Porsche Cayenne.
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Great sense of humor, thanks for reminding us to smile while we wrench.
Great video Bryan, appreciate the video. The rear caliper bolts torque calls for 30Nm + 75 degrees, as per service manual, but 90 degrees should not do much harm if you are tad higher. I saw someone else doing 68 lbs/ft but not sure how that value was derived. The service manual recommends the front caliper bolts (T2Y) to be replaced since they are one time use only (Torqued to 270 Nm) but there is no mention about replacing the rear bolts. Will be doing mine soon.
Thanks a million Bryan. I watched your video and changed the pads myself.
Thanks for doing this I just bought a 16 and I’m getting ready to do my rear brakes appreciate it thanks
Having just done the fronts on a Tuareg I can tell you the sensors don’t come out easily. We just order a new set. The front pads are held in with pins and if they have any age on them, they’re probably corroded in place. I finally cut one off to get it out. When I started on the other side I used some Wurth “Freeze Off” penetrating spray which seemed to work. But once again trying to remove the sensors will probably ruin them.
this will be very helpful for me soon
Bryan, gotta wear some latex gloves or something using that brake cleaner!
Hey I just use your front desk video to do my pads done 1 million cars that was a different different way Gladys saw the video. Is there any reason why you didn't pry the pads with the bleeder open before you remove the caliper like you did on the front? Seems easier that way
Great video! Do you know if VW recommends replacing the caliper bolts?
I found a torque spec. so I sort of doubt it. If they were one time use there would think there would be a torque spec. and a degree spec after that.
I’m going to use two jack stands from harbor freight, wish me luck 🤞
How long did it take for the Brake Ware Light to disappear from your dash ? I had my front rotor, pads and sensors replaced, 5 minutes after leaving the shop the brake ware light came back on, then it was off the next day then it turn on again. Any similar issues ?
My brake warning light never came on. I had a lot of travelling coming up so I changed the pads before the light came on.
Hope you have bleed the brake fluid afterwards, otherwise you potentially have air now left in your system which is dangerous.
Did you do anything with electric parking brake before you started?
I did not do anything with the parking brake since I did not take the rotor off. I believe that they need to be retracted with a scan tool if you are removing or replacing the brake rotor.
@@bryansprojects3570 Correct, just swapping out pads on this type of system will not require a dealer level scan tool. What one has to watch out for is if the EPB "air gap" is changed for any reason. Air gap is the actual space between the EPB brake shoes and drum. Two common issues that I see.... some one thinks they should adjust the drum brake like they did on their 1985 Chevy truck or whatever. This EPB system does not need adjustments once set. The other is installing aftermarket rotors, the ID of the brake drum will be different. Anything that changes that air gap will make the EPB system very unhappy and a dealer level scan tool is needed to help reset it. We have information on this topic for anyone who needs it at our wiki web site.
@@RossTechVCDS could you link that?
funnels are a thing
Do you have to wind electric park brake off?
To replace the pads you do not need to back off the parking brake shoes. Apparently if you replace the rotors you need to retract the parking brake shoes and reset the gap. I have not had to do that operation yet.
@@bryansprojects3570 Thats a good advice. I will be replacing the rotors as well, not sure how to adjust the parking brake shoe gap. The electrical connector has 4-pins, so thinking if the gap is set using a scan tool.
Opening the brake line was very unnecessary work just to change brake pads. That adds more work of having to bleed the line out
First you never need to open the bleeder line that's where you go wrong
Bryan clearly mentioned he does not want to push the fluid back into the lines, that's his choice. Some take some fluid before hand from the reservoir and then push the fluid back. No harm either way.
@@RingZeroUnfortunately yes there is a harm.. when you do his way you wind up sometimes with a sponge brake pedal or one that you will notice sinks at a stop sign or light. Being repetitive to doing something wrong doesn't make it right because of choice
Why not push the brake fluid back through the lines, rather than making a mess and squirting some through the bleeder? What's the idea there
When I worked as a mechanic for about 4 years after college my boss insisted we do it this way. The concern was that you would force debris water etc. from the brake system and force it back into the master cylinder. I guess he had witnessed that happen previously. Keep in mind this was in the mid-nineties. I can see his point and I have never had any issues doing it this way, it is also a way to not overflow the reservoir and do a partial fluid change.
and you may introduce air into the caliper by opening the bleeder. fluid expands and contracts all the time and moves in the lines. once you break that bleeder you really should bleed that caliper.