How To | Rebuild Your Front Brake Caliper | Harley Davidson Street Bob FXDB
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2021
- In this video, I rebuild the front caliper on my Street Bob. No talking this time, so enjoy the silence. Torque specs below.
Note: The manual says not to use any metal picks to remove the seals, but I always do - just be careful not scratch the interior of the caliper cylinders.
Here's the kit I'm using from J&P Cycles:
www.jpcycles.com/product/364-...
Torque Specs:
Assembly Bolt: 28-38 ft/lbs
Mounting Bolts: 28-38 ft/lbs
Pad Pin: 15-16 ft/lbs
Banjo Bolt to Front Caliper: 17-22 ft/lbs 
Авто/Мото
Didn't think I would like the silent mode, but enjoyed the peaceful life sounds going on while you we're working. Thanks so much.
Thanks for watching, appreciate the feedback
That's a beautiful bike. Thank you for the helpful yet simple videos.
Thanks, friend. Glad it was helpful
Hi there great video,could you please measure the distance center to center for the mounting bolts to the fork tube,as iv bought a Harley project and it hasn't got a front caliper cheers JK
Hi John, sure - I'll measure and get back to you shortly
I'm glad PA doesn't do their inspection stickers like this, or I would be screwed lol
Thanks for the video. I wish I had watched this before I trashed my rotator, ha ha.
Thank you, friend
It’s easier to bleed the caliper before mounting it. If you raise the caliper the air naturally moves to the bleed valve.
Thanks friend
Hi Scott, where should I raise my caliper to bleed it ou naturallyt? Could you extend your way a bit more please? I got stuck that I have air somewhere in the caliper and I cant get it out. No matter what I do. At this moment I am trying it to do it unmounted from the bike... Thanks mate!
Hi, great video. Just rebuilt my road glide calipers, somewhat similar ones. I used new Harley seals but re-used the pistons. I have a piston that's leaking now. The pistons were really hard to get in during the rebuild, I think I may have ruined a seal. Any advice how I should proceed?
Hey man thanks for reaching out. If your piston is leaking I would advise first, don't ride until you fix it. Start by pulling the caliper and replacing the seals again. It's a pain in the ass but small price for safety. If you had trouble getting the piston back in, I'd recommend a) ensuring it's good, and if not then replacing it, and b) you can apply dialectic grease on the side of the piston when you install. Hope that helps brother
@@SingleMaltMotors yeah didn't even fully install yet, it started leaking as soon as I pumped the lever when trying to fill the brake fluid. So really don't even know if the other pistons are leaking either. The leaking piston caliper was much harder to install the pistons than the other side so hopefully the other side is fine. I'll try a new seal on that piston and maybe try to bench test somehow. Thanks for the advice!
Merci pour cette vidéo .je cherchais justement un tuto pour mon fatboy harley , je possède, le même étrier .
Avec plaisir, content que cette vidéo ait aidé
Great video, I replace the pistons and seals but one of the pistons fits extremely tight, wonder what is the problem.
Hi, may use more grease on side of piston to help lubricate. Pistons should be made to fit exactly
Can you tell us why you used Dialectric grease versus graphite, or some other grease?
Can you make a diagram about which are the assembly bolts versus the mounting bolts? Thx
Hi friend, follow the link below and let me know if that doesn't help. Bolts #4 and #5 are the mounting bolts. The other two bolts, which are not numbered, are the assembly bolts.
cimg2.ibsrv.net/cimg/www.hdforums.com/697x671_85/386/hd-131386.png
What is the torque required for these callipers? i checked the owner's manual and is not there
Front caliper:
Assembly bolts: 28-38 ft-lb
Mounting bolts: 28-38 ft-lb
Pad pin: 15-16 ft-lb
I have a 2017 FXDLS. I was thinking about replacing the Bridge Bolts on my front calipers with ARP stainless steel equivalents. Do you foresee any challenges with that?
Should be fine if same size and thread
How do you make sure that you got out all the water and cleaning solution before trying to bleed the brakes?
Rinse and flush with brake fluid. You can also use compressed air to blow out channels
@@SingleMaltMotors awesome, I will try this. Thank you
When I do this do I bleed the brakes first? Or do I do it after the rebuild of the pistons
After. Bleeding the brakes is always the last step
Nice vid, thank you, however, I think you should have indicated that the rubber seal rings have to go in a certain way. The implication here is that it does not matter which way they are inserted. Just saying
There are only two sizes, if that’s what you meant. Thanks
What size socket did you use ?
10 millimeter socket (12 pt) all around. Hope that helps
I was told to only use brake fluid to lube the parts?
Hi friend, per the Clymer manual you shouldn't use DOT 4 to lubricate as it will result in increased brake lever travel. Manual says use silicone grease or equivalent on inside diameter surface of caliper bores, seals, and outside diameter surface and closed ends of pistons.
Not trying to be argumentative, but the brake fluid is going to get on the seals no matter what, so I don’t understand why you’d lube the piston with anything outside of the fluid itself. Wouldn’t the grease possibly contaminate the brake fluid?
I was going to say something about that inspection sticker plate but I guess I won’t.
Thank you for "not" saying anything, and I did get her inspected
looks like you just did
I just did this job and i can't, for the life of me, get this to bleed the air completely. I've done many brakes on cars and bike both, and never had this issue...
Hi Jim, thanks for the comment and some good news - this is a very common problem. The solution is it takes a lot of time to bleed the line after rebuilding. It probably took me close to an hour of bleeding the front line after the rebuild to get the air out. I also let it sit overnight and bled again the next day to get rid of spongy feel in the front brake lever. Have a go and let me know if it doesn't get better.
@@SingleMaltMotors Awesome thanks for taking the time! I will give that a try.
I actually had to take it apart again and reassemble the inside (rim side) submerged in a bowl of brake fluid. Crazy!
Next time its going in the garbage and i'm getting an aftermarket Caliper.
Come on HD, get better!
Using the break leaver to push air out of the break lines is very inefficient. It is much faster to suck the air out of the lines through the caliper bleed valve using a 30 or 60 cc syringe and a section of 1/4 inch silastic tubing. I used this method on my bike after rebuilding my calipers and I had the lines completely bled and ready to ride in about an hour. I highly recommend using this method. By the way, using an air compressor to pop out the pistons is a great idea, saved me a lot of time and grief. Thank you
Glad that helped, thanks for watching
looks like he had a speed bleeder on there, similar approach to what you describe i think but tube and a pepsi bottle is all that is needed ( no open closing with wrench and cheap at 20$ or less for the pair )
Where you get those bleeder valves from
I bought them from J&P Cycles
Something like this: www.jpcycles.com/product/russell-speed-bleeders-for-harley-1984-2017?sku_id=10227883
What is he washing the parts with?
I use Simple Green all purpose cleaner (APC) mixed with water 50/50
www.walmart.com/ip/Simple-Green-All-Purpose-Cleaner-Concentrate-1-gal/23569739?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2295&adid=2222222227723569739_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-293946777986&wl5=9008462&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=23569739&wl13=2295&veh=sem_LIA&gclid=CjwKCAjwlcaRBhBYEiwAK341jbAk3OziGxh6Rokkzq-jJT19EMyi0tnDPss9a3d6EaLzIh9kkM-jSxoCcisQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Great video! Did mine last night, for the first time. Super easy with this video.
Now I'm still bleeding the lines though. Lol 😆
@@austinicke3285 Glad to hear it
👍
Thanks, friend
Don’t mimes wear white gloves?
Only when I'm working
Why dielectric grease on the back side of piston? It serves no purpose there and will contaminate the hydraulic fluid.
I know, right?
Hi friend, per manual you should lubricate the inside of caliper bores, dust and piston seals, and outstide diameter surface and closed ends of pistons. Thanks for watching
Was nothing wrong with that caliper
Nobody said there was. I made the video to show people how to do it.
It would've helped me better if you would explain what you were doing.
Hi friend, ok thank you for sharing this feedback. Hope it was still helpful.
@SingleMaltMechanic Found your video hoping it would give me some insight how to get all the air out of a completely new brake system. But you skipped over that part :(
Opened up the bleeder valve on my 2010 FXSTC planning to flush the fluid and install a speed bleeder. Massive fail! The entire contents of the brake lines flowed out! Gravity? This doesn't happen on cars or rear HD brakes. So I'm in the same situation as many on here. Took forever to get a lever back and even then it travels several inches to completely lock the brake where it took perhaps an inch prior to doing this "repair". The brakes are not spongy now but what's causing the lever to travel so far to completely compress the pads now? And how do I fix this? Thanks in advance!
Hi friend. Bleeding the line can be a pain in the @$$. If you don't have a speed bleeder valve, it will be a slow process of opening the bleed valve, gently squeezing the handle, letting fluid out, closing the valve, and repeating until no more air comes it. It could literally take upwards of an hour. It's not fun but it will work, let me know how it goes.