These long videos are No Problem. It is really good to see you work out these problems. Everything doesn't have to be fifteen minutes. You are talking to a crowd of enthusiasts. Up to an hour for us, is like one class and certainly not an unpleasant way to spend an hour. Great Stuff Paul....
Great Video and not too long at all. I loved the view from inside the car when you were driving. Maybe add more of that camera angle! Thanks for all you do!
Paul Outstanding video very well done I learned several things at age 78 ... I have been driving and working on Model A Fords since I bought my first Model A in 1958 it was a 1929 Tudor sedan at least it had that on the title I drove it for six months Joined a Model A club and a guy saw my Model A and burst out laughing I said why are you laughing ? he said Do you realize you have a 1930 Tudor sedan body with 1929 fenders and chassis ! I had no idea . I drove that model A for 7 years all through High School and after too. I estimate I drove it at least 100,000 miles . My Model A I have today is a 1929 standard phaeton which I have driven and worked on now for over 15 years and the beat goes on . keep those Model A's rolling guys
Thanks for making these videos Paul, I discovered your channel a few months ago right when it seemed to get much more active as I was looking into helping take care of my Grandmother's Model A. I think your clarity and production surpasses most if not all the other model A maintenance videos I have watched. Keep up the great work!
Job done done! I wouldn't have attempted this job without your excellent step by step tutorial Paul. My 31 cars engine number shows it was made in 31 but didn't have the machined grooves in the block, so I couldn't install the gland rings! So fingers crossed my new manifold stays good! Thanks again Paul!
Thanks, I had good support parts wise from O'Neilvintageford here in the UK. Test drive went well, no issues, bit of smoke that cleared after warming up. I'm 76 and no mechanic, so feeling pretty pleased with myself! @@ModelA
Watched to the end and enjoyed every minute. I do not own a Model A or any vehicle at all with doors (totally unnecessary!). Still it is a pleasure to watch a man who appreciates the complexities of properly maintaining an internal combustion engine. Thank you for an enjoyable time. I'm thinking if someday I go back to four wheels I would be most happy with a Model A.
Hi Paul...Wanted to send a big THANK YOU your way for this and the later video where you replaced the intake gaskets on Tina's '29...watching these provided the confidence I needed to install replacement manifolds on my late '31 this afternoon...I have studied all of the "how-to" books, but if a picture is worth 1000 words then so far as I am concerned a video is worth at least 100 pictures!...your videos made my project today a "no brainer" and an enjoyable afternoon spent working on my Model A....Thanks again.
love your show Paul, I just bought a 1930 Model A, 2 door sedan and it is being shipped from Garage Kept Motors in Michigan and should be here next week,looking forward to learning all the ins and outs of the car and clubs.
Standard torque for a 7/16" bolt is 49 ft/lbs. Thats not for hardened or specialty applications. You had to use a socket here but if you could have used a combination wrench, the size of the wrench as hard as you can pull is usually the correct torque for that bolt size. SAE standards set up before we were even born! Good sounding engine! I have a '29 pickup l havent driven for 4 years. I need to get back to it!
I can vouch for the high temp RTV methods. I've used this on muscle car headers, heavy trucks and tractors. The key is just enough to cover but not too much and always let it "skin" over like you said. I've had this work for a decade of service no problem. Great Videos!
My gasket leak produced a very illusive squeal,.....maddening to find. I thought it was the Distributor so I now have a rebuilt Distributor and soon to have new gaskets. And there you go !
Glad you are doing well in 2022. You gave us a scare. This time a year ago I was in the hospital with covid for 29 days, and took two months of theropy to get well. I am good now. I have a 31 standard coupe I bought in 1959 when I was 16. which I did a full body off restoration, a 28 Roadster, a 29 2 dr sedan and a 31 wide bed pickup which I am 3/4 done with a total restoration. Keep up the good work, I enjoy your channel. Chris Watters from Stewart Tn.
A disabled friend had a ‘29 Tudor with an obviously blown manifold gasket. I drive the car once in a while to keep it going. Thought I would tackle changing the gasket. This video gives me some idea of what to do. Thanks!
Well I watched two of your videos this aft. Nice Job on the Mitchel gearbox installation no metal Cutting or welding Nice. And the exaust Manifold replacement Repair good work Simple thanks. Dwight.
Paul, I have developed an exhaust leak. I have the manifold off the car. So... this was a very helpful video for me today. On another subject. I think it must be Christmas because my Mitchel Overdrive just arriver that I bought last September. Regards to Tina
I am having this problem right now, but oh so hard to do on a RHD ! Real tight fit to get manifold on + off. I will have to check for cracks as it does not want to seal. Thanks Paul for all your videos, it really helps us keep Model A's on the road. Cheers from NZ. -Wayne.
Thanks for another great video (Though I didn’t see it until 2022). Watching you work and explain your methods is very reassuring, especially for something like a manifold leak, which we all seem to have to address sooner or later. God bless!
Your doing exactly what a good mechanic Service tech car Doctor Would do. For an intake or exhaust leak Antique or current Production for todays Car's according to specs. Or improvement spects you follow it. As we say in amateur radio to someone on the air fine business Ol man. One suggestion do it or not up to you take the car out for a 10 mile drive put it back in the garage and check the manifold torque to the Head again the gasket may take a compression set it may need a little retorquing. Depending On gasket design Materials and heat Tollerances. I had a car once I went through the manuals to find when to retorque things around the engine the cars engine lasted over 200000 miles domestic brand Regular maintenance and repair made it last a long long time with motor oil changes and other fluids 2 kept it from rotting to the ground. Who says Japanese cars last longer than our domestics... is hogwash. Some foreign cars need repair more often than our domestics. I was a professional mechanic before I retired I'm 63 and I've seen it all your good... Nice job on the antique street cars Ford mo. A's original equipment and all. Your Friend. Dwight from Allenpark SE michigan Detroit Above and to the W. Of Lake Erie.
You look like you realy enjoy your life I can see you are a good mechanic too I am enjoy your videos I was a mechanic For 30 years still work on some things from time to time. See you later.
I didn't hear the part where you said that only brass nuts are used for the exhaust manifold & not pretty cad plated ones. And we use brass because...............................?
Something Snyder’s is carrying now that connects exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe - no-nut required connection. Back portion is threaded so you only bolt on. Real slick.
On one episode you remounted a front license plate on the front bumper using a two piece rear license mounting bracket. I've looked at several companies but no one sells a two piece. Where did you purchase yours's ? .......Steve
Astounding how many people don't know that simple trick. I've mentioned it to friends with tech 2 ratings & been looked at like I had antlers growing out of my head. Complete disbelief.
Putting aside the non - overhead valve engineering, the manifolds for this engine actually look surprisingly advanced for the era in which they were produced. Compare them unit for unit with carbed int/exh manifolds from any us manufacturer produced in the 70s/80s, *including Ford* & the newer designs look absolutely clunky next to them. It's like time flowed backwards for several decades.
Paul I joined MAFICA and The Arizona Model A Restorers Club. I sent you a picture of my Model A with my parents in the picture. Question for you. I think my gaskets are shot. Especially the head gasket. What is the best way to diagnose this problem
@@ModelA , this is ET. I ordered the manifold where you suggested, ordered studs, nuts, washers, gaskets. I'll uncover my sander as we discussed, and hopefully get her running soon. I still have plenty to do; new grease zerks, trim screws, and check front end to see if the tie rods have guts in them. Be safe.
After watching this, and thinking about my own lack of facilities, I am considering calling my first series : From the Carport. Should get interesting when the rain comes again.
Learned so much from your video and I like your cars. I own a 1973 VW Camper which I'm always getting under the deck and I can use this information. Thanks for the Video.
Very nice repair video. I was sad to see that you scratched and dented you oil filter a little when you removed the manifold the first time. You have some wonderful cars and produce some great videos featuring the Ford Model A.
Thank you, Grady! I don't care about that oil filter. It won't be on there much longer anyway. It's just a regular spin-on Motorcraft $5 filter that I painted to match the motor. I buy and paint 2-3 at a time and have them on the shelf.
I needed this video about a year ago, I had the same issue... I didn’t know about using the rings... after trying several different things I ended up using them and they worked great... still no issues 🤞🏻 great video! Would love to see how you machine them for flatness...
Thank you for the video Paul, I just purchased a 1928 Model A and it has a exhaust leak in the same spot. So I’m going to do this and hope it’s only a gasket issue. 😊
Excellent video like all your material, thanks. Question: You are using a chemical gasket maker between the exhaust muffler and inlet manifold connection flanges. Do you recommend using only that to achieve good sealing, or also the copper insert they sell. I used the insert only and have a leak. I thought it would be redundant to use a chemical gasket.
Hey Paul love your great explanation on your videos. Got a question. On the channel Two Guys and a Ride, bout a year ago titled daily driver 1930 or 31 Model A. At about 4:15 into the interview the question was asked, since he had the car since high school and now he’s up in age, how fast have you had her. Reply, bout 70. But that’s too hard on a long stroke engine. Before I started pulling mine apart for paint, I would drive my Model A Coupe Deluxe everywhere within Parish lines. One day I was making a parts run for another project and saw in the distance one of the SPEED NOTIFIERS IN CONSTRUCTION ZONE. To let you you know how fast you are going, so naturally I stomped it, when I passed it, I was wide open running the Good Gulf. It said my top speed was 51. On the way home I knew where it was so I had all the start I needed and got the same result. I run it about 40-42 normally, cause that’s where she likes it. I of course would like it more if she liked it closer to 55. The old gentleman being interviewed said that’s where his is comfortable. Now admittedly he’s said the engine has been out about 10 or 12 times. Cause any work needed the engine’s gonna be in the way. I don’t know anything about the internals of my engine, don’t smoke, and only drops about 2 drops when I park her. She’s no trouble at all. But just saying, if a guy wanted that 55, what would he need in the engine to accomplish this?
I'm just guessing maybe your timing is off or the carb is out of whack. A stock Model A should have absolutely no trouble getting up to 55. Maybe your motor is really tired?
Have a few model A’s and love your videos thanks for posting. I have a 28 pickup. A Gordon smith model a air compressor and a 1930 model a powered logging equipment.
Paul... I do hope you see this message... You have become my go to guy when I have an issue with my 31. I just had to change out my manifold gaskets. I added the glad rings and now I see the issue with the small copper gaskets.. Can you tell me who makes the copper gaskets with the larger openings or where to buy them?
Probable cause for the manifold cracking is thermal expansion. To reduce the chance of a repeated thermal expansion crack use a lower torque and always use the rings.
If you're a MAFCA or MARC member, you can advertise it to Model A enthusiasts on their websites for free! If not, I know people who have positive things to say about selling classics on Hemmings.com
I see a spin on 1-A oil filter on your rig, In my day, I do not remember working on any "A's" with a spin on.... Is it a retrofit ? Btw, Great job, very clean ! (or, maybe it was on the "T's"?)
I keep watching and learning from these videos, even though I don't (sadly) own a Model A. One thing that I continually notice, is not only are your engines extremely clean, the paint on them is very shiny so the look like new. I re-painted the engine in my Flathead V8 about two years ago-it is no longer shiny like that. Do you have any advice/recommendations to keeping the engine shiny sir?
Thank you! I have mild autism. I tend to obsess over trivial things and ignore big things. To keep your motor looking new, use 303 Aerospace Protectant to clean it.
Paul good mornig, could you pls inform the part number and where I can order the engine oil filter adaptor you have your engine equipped with, thanks! Regards, Myron
I was watching the removal of the manifold and noticed that besides the leak at No. 4 cylinder, there looked like a leak at No. 1 on the bottom half of the exhaust port. So, by fixing the leak at No. 4, you fixed the leak at No. 1. This is called a 'two for'. haha.
My model a had a leak in the no. 4 cylinder as-well. It had a fel pro gasket on it. They are terrible. Also the no. 4 cylinder section of the manifold was warped badly. I put a copper gasket back on, replaced the manifold, and put some gland rings in.
Hi just want to say love your channel. I have a quick question I have a 29 Phaton that is drinking gas. Less than a mile on a half gallon of gas. Have tried everything, not sure what else to do. Valves are in spec, timing is dead on. Carb is not leaking, no fuel leaks anywhere. Tried two different carbs. Still just sucks it down. GAV valve 1/4 turn out. Any ideas?
Wow. That is excessive fuel consumption!! I presume your spark plugs are wet and black, no? In your case, I would attempt the nuclear opton- Rebuild the dist, carb, the works. I would also pull the ignition cable and check it over VERY well. Last thing to check would be to see if the cam walked. Set timing using timing gear dimple, then pull #1 spark plug and make sure it is at TDC. you might have skipped a tooth.
Paul, another great video. I was absorbed through the work process. Thank you. I'm surprised to see an Oil Filter. Stock? Did you put Thread-Lock on the manifold nuts? The torque sequence is unlike what I've know. Is it really OK going from rear to front? No crisscrossing?
No threadlock. You don't want or need it. The manifold bolts are all in a row, not in a box or round pattern, so inline torque sequence is what you want. The oil filter is an add-on. I like using them on touring cars. Thanks!
Paul thanks for all your videos. My great grandfathers model A finally arrived to Tucson this past week and is sitting in my garage. And well, it’s in a lot worse shape than I thought. I have a couple questions. 1. It sounds like it’s backfiring when I drive and even when at idle at times. At first I thought maybe it wasn’t getting fuel, but upon first inspection I see soot around the manifold where it meets the block. I’m assuming an exhaust leak. thoughts? 2. I’ve watched your video where you’ve rebuilt the distributor and timed the car. Before the the truck arrived I bought a the ford wrench to turn the crank so could find TDC, but the wrench doesn’t fit around the nut. I have a 1929 AA and it looks like the nut at the end of the crank is meant for a special tool may grandfather may have used with his manual hand crank, are Those a different shape than a normal wrench similar to what I see you using in your video? 3. Finally- I decided to be brave and remove the distributor so I could see if the point are correct… well they are far from correct. The issue I’m running into is the distributor is sieved in the block so I can’t pull it. I purchased a distributor puller from Braxtons last night, but my question is, can I keep the lower distributor rod or do these typically need to be pulled and replaced as well at this point? 4. On my first drive after pulling it off the transport truck I couldn’t get above about 10-15 miles MPH, do you think any of the issues mentioned above could be the problem or is this more of a carburetor issue? Thanks again and sorry for the long questions
Congratulatios! 1- Time for new manifold gaskets. Make sure the manifolds are flat also. That video shows how. 2- Someone probably installed whatever nut they had on hand. Just order up the correct nut and replace. 3- If the lower shaft is in good shape, keep it. 4- Could be lots of things. Start by fixing the dizzy and getting it timed right.
I'm a new model A owner, '31 sport coupe which currently needs the GAV opened 1/2 turn to idle smoothly and avoid stalling when I stop. One likely reason for that I'm told is a vacuum leak though spraying starter fluid around the intake manifold and carb hasn't revealed anything yet. Doesn't seem like there's play when trying to wiggle the throttle shaft, I'm strongly suspecting a vacuum leak from the port that goes to the wiper motor (wiper currently doesn't work) I didn't see in the video a gasket going between the carb and the intake, but I'm assuming you did. If so did you use sealant there and what did you torque the bolts to? Love your channel, fantastic resource!!!
Hello Paul. I have a 1929 Ford model A sport coupe early model. I have two. questions: #1 my Car is missing it’s soft top, so where can I get do it your self instructions to replace the top? #2 My car has the original plate glass windshield and side roll up windows. Where can I get new safety glass to replace the plate glass?
Hey Glenn. I haven't done a Sport Coupe top replacement video yet. But I will someday. The Model A windshield was safety glass right from the factory. But if you want to i stall safety glass all the way around, you can order the glass pre-cut and ready to install from most of the Model A parts suppliers. For example- www.mikes-afordable.com/SRCH.html?SearchOffset=72&Offset=72&Search=Glass&Per_Page=12
Hey Paul, I am a new subscriber to your channel and I am throughly enjoying it. Keep up the good work!! i have a question for you. I see that you use both versions of oil filter attachment. Which one is your true preference. I have ordered the timing chain housing version. Am i wrong in thinking that either of the two are full flow anyway.
Paul my exhaust manifold has the classic droop on the rear port and is leaking there and at the clamp. I just had the manifold shaved and added new copper gaskets but it still leaks. Should I have the reproduction manifold shaved with the intake manifold together for sure? And do you think I can reuse the new copper gasket or should I just get a new one as well? Thanks brother for these great videos!
A warped manifold is going to fail yet again, take it off, have it trued up by a good shop, forget any 'sealers', the rings are OK but nothing beats a straight & true manifold. I use a soft copper gasket in the exhaust connection, this helps a lot with that.
The manifold is not warped. What gave you the idea it was? As mentioned, I use sealer on the block side because the block casting is not machined perfectly flat like the manifold is. The rest of what you say is absolutely true.
Do you think it’s still possible to find one it’s in a barn somewhere is unrestored I could never afford to buy one that’s restored but maybe one that’s not i would love a model a truck
@@ChestnutCove No pictures, and $2K. But it might be sold now. I got an email from a guy who read this comment section and sent me an email. Coming tomorrow to look at it.
@@brandtmagolon454 Hemmings is a good source, but your nearest Model A club is even better. If you go to www.MAFCA.com you can find a page that has a map and shows all the MAFCA clubs. You will also see who to contact and an email or phone number for the contact person.
Great video - I'm not very familiar with flathead architecture, how is it there are 4 exhaust manifold ports and only 2 intake manifold ports? Do the intake runners split internal to the head?
One intake port feeds a gallery in the block that feeds intake valves in two cylinders. the valves in order would be E,I,I,E,E,I,I,E where E is the exhaust valve and I is the intake valve. Henry Ford was a terrible human being, but a genius engineer.
Soooooo,I just watched this. I'll be doing that when a few parts come in. I've got exactly what you said in the beginning,little ticking here and there. So thx again..
Newbie question here. I have a 1930 Model A with a 1929 engine. One of the first things Paul did in this video was to remove the vacuum line, which goes up to the firewall, from the intake manifold. My car has NO vacuum line here. Just a plug in the manifold and an open un-plugged hole into the firewall. So, I guess my question is two-parted: 1) what is the function of the vacuum line there, and 2) is it necessary for proper performance? That line has been absent since I've owned the car (2 years) and the car seems to run fine without it (or maybe I only think it runs fine). Please tell me what I need to know here. Thanks
OK, so I watched the video all the way through and Paul explained that the vacuum line is for windshield wipers, which my car does not have. The only remaining question is, should I plug that hole in the firewall to keep crud out of it? Or, is there no harm in leaving it unplugged? I do live on a dusty road, so I'm thinking it might be good just to go ahead and plug it. Thanks for your attention to my questions!
These long videos are No Problem. It is really good to see you work out these problems. Everything doesn't have to be fifteen minutes. You are talking to a crowd of enthusiasts. Up to an hour for us, is like one class and certainly not an unpleasant way to spend an hour. Great Stuff Paul....
Thank you Craig!
I wish you were my mechanic.... very clean work! Perfection !
That is the nicest thing anyone has said to me. Thank you.
Great Video and not too long at all. I loved the view from inside the car when you were driving. Maybe add more of that camera angle! Thanks for all you do!
Thanks for the tips!
Paul. Could you explain on one of your videos how you got an oil filter to mount to a model A engine. Thanks! Jim
Pretty sure it's just a valve cover kit.
@@ravemaster7405 But there's one video where he shows an oil filter mounted on water pump case.
@@possumrides8448 there's an oil filter kit that mounts the filter to the timing gear cover.
Was never a big fan of cars this old but find these videos very interesting. MUCH easier to work on than any modern cars.
And more fun to work on also.
Paul Outstanding video very well done I learned several things at age 78 ... I have been driving and working on Model A Fords since I bought my first Model A in 1958 it was a 1929 Tudor sedan at least it had that on the title I drove it for six months Joined a Model A club and a guy saw my Model A and burst out laughing I said why are you laughing ? he said Do you realize you have a 1930 Tudor sedan body with 1929 fenders and chassis ! I had no idea . I drove that model A
for 7 years all through High School and after too. I estimate I drove it at least 100,000 miles . My Model A I have today is a 1929 standard phaeton which I have driven and worked on now for over 15 years and the beat goes on . keep those Model A's rolling guys
Thanks for making these videos Paul, I discovered your channel a few months ago right when it seemed to get much more active as I was looking into helping take care of my Grandmother's Model A. I think your clarity and production surpasses most if not all the other model A maintenance videos I have watched. Keep up the great work!
Wow. That is very kind. Thank you!
Job done done! I wouldn't have attempted this job without your excellent step by step tutorial Paul. My 31 cars engine number shows it was made in 31 but didn't have the machined grooves in the block, so I couldn't install the gland rings! So fingers crossed my new manifold stays good! Thanks again Paul!
Good work Denis!!
Thanks, I had good support parts wise from O'Neilvintageford here in the UK. Test drive went well, no issues, bit of smoke that cleared after warming up. I'm 76 and no mechanic, so feeling pretty pleased with myself! @@ModelA
Watched to the end and enjoyed every minute. I do not own a Model A or any vehicle at all with doors (totally unnecessary!). Still it is a pleasure to watch a man who appreciates the complexities of properly maintaining an internal combustion engine. Thank you for an enjoyable time. I'm thinking if someday I go back to four wheels I would be most happy with a Model A.
Thank you!
Manifold leak repair is on the list! Thanks for yet another helpful video, Paul.
Hi Paul...Wanted to send a big THANK YOU your way for this and the later video where you replaced the intake gaskets on Tina's '29...watching these provided the confidence I needed to install replacement manifolds on my late '31 this afternoon...I have studied all of the "how-to" books, but if a picture is worth 1000 words then so far as I am concerned a video is worth at least 100 pictures!...your videos made my project today a "no brainer" and an enjoyable afternoon spent working on my Model A....Thanks again.
Thank you Clifford! That's what it's all about, my brother!!
love your show Paul, I just bought a 1930 Model A, 2 door sedan and it is being shipped from Garage Kept Motors in Michigan and should be here next week,looking forward to learning all the ins and outs of the car and clubs.
Awesome!
Thanks! I'm replacing my exhaust and intake manifold as well as my muffler, your video was super helpful
Thank YOU!!!
Wow... I thought that was an excellent video ! Not too long at all. Thank you.
From an old timer USMC Helicopter Mechanic / Crew Chief..... You did a perfect job !!!... Nice & clean & sanitary !!!
That means a LOT. Thank you, sir!
Thanks for the great video Paul, Going to replace manifolds on my 1929 Tudor this afternoon, I have more confidence after watching your tutorial.
Every time I see your video I pick up a new tip. Thanks and keep them coming.
Standard torque for a 7/16" bolt is 49 ft/lbs. Thats not for hardened or specialty applications. You had to use a socket here but if you could have used a combination wrench, the size of the wrench as hard as you can pull is usually the correct torque for that bolt size. SAE standards set up before we were even born! Good sounding engine! I have a '29 pickup l havent driven for 4 years. I need to get back to it!
I have a cracked Exhaust manifold, so that was a good lesson in the proceedures! Thanks Paul!
Far Best model A videos ! Thanks Paul
Wow, thanks!
I can vouch for the high temp RTV methods. I've used this on muscle car headers, heavy trucks and tractors. The key is just enough to cover but not too much and always let it "skin" over like you said. I've had this work for a decade of service no problem. Great Videos!
I am glad to see new videos around the model A
My gasket leak produced a very illusive squeal,.....maddening to find. I thought it was the Distributor so I now have a rebuilt Distributor and soon to have new gaskets. And there you go !
Hahahaaa! That happens. Good work!
Glad you are doing well in 2022. You gave us a scare. This time a year ago I was in the hospital with covid for 29 days, and took two months of theropy to get well. I am good now. I have a 31 standard coupe I bought in 1959 when I was 16. which I did a full body off restoration, a 28 Roadster, a 29 2 dr sedan and a 31 wide bed pickup which I am 3/4 done with a total restoration. Keep up the good work, I enjoy your channel. Chris Watters from Stewart Tn.
Sounds like you're doing good work, Chris!
I like how you remain calm. I let the expletive fly, I'm such a quick triggered mechanical bully...
I blame it on the autism
A disabled friend had a ‘29 Tudor with an obviously blown manifold gasket. I drive the car once in a while to keep it going. Thought I would tackle changing the gasket. This video gives me some idea of what to do. Thanks!
Go for it!
i dont have a ford model A neither a drivers license but i still love these videos
But you are still most welcome here. Thanks for being a subscriber!
Very Informitive Paul Mammal! The sedan is so beautiful
Thank you, Raptors!
Hey, I like that new aftermarket manifold. Dresses up the motor with the green/silver contrast.
The car is beautiful & your video was very informative with great tips.
Thanks!
Well I watched two of your videos this aft.
Nice Job on the Mitchel gearbox installation no metal
Cutting or welding
Nice. And the exaust
Manifold replacement
Repair good work
Simple thanks. Dwight.
As always, a super good video. I've got to do the same job soon on my '29 standard coupe (a cracked intake is the culprit on mine). Thanks. Paul.
Good luck Michael! We will wrench in solidarity, brother!!
Paul, I have developed an exhaust leak. I have the manifold off the car. So... this was a very helpful video for me today. On another subject. I think it must be Christmas because my Mitchel Overdrive just arriver that I bought last September. Regards to Tina
Sorry about the leak. Excellent on the Mitchell!!! Now the fun begins
The oil on the copper gaskets of from the stamping press used in manufacturing.
I am having this problem right now, but oh so hard to do on a RHD ! Real tight fit to get manifold on + off. I will have to check for cracks as it does not want to seal. Thanks Paul for all your videos, it really helps us keep Model A's on the road. Cheers from NZ. -Wayne.
Good luck Wayne!! I hope you don't have to pull the motor.
If only moderns were as easy to work on! I'd even be able to do much of the work myself!
Thanks for another great video (Though I didn’t see it until 2022). Watching you work and explain your methods is very reassuring, especially for something like a manifold leak, which we all seem to have to address sooner or later. God bless!
Awesome, thank you! God bless
That was fun and you have a super nice car! If I had the room, I'd have an A for sure.
BTW, I like your old radio collection!
Your doing exactly what a good mechanic
Service tech car Doctor
Would do. For an intake or exhaust leak
Antique or current
Production for todays
Car's according to specs. Or improvement spects you follow it. As we say in amateur radio to someone on the air fine business Ol man. One suggestion do it or not up to you take the car out for a 10 mile drive put it back in the garage and check the manifold torque to the Head again the gasket may take a compression set it may need a little retorquing. Depending
On gasket design
Materials and heat
Tollerances.
I had a car once I went through the manuals to find when to retorque things around the engine the cars engine lasted over 200000
miles domestic brand
Regular maintenance and repair made it last a long long time with motor oil changes and other fluids 2 kept it from rotting to the ground. Who says Japanese cars last longer than our domestics... is hogwash. Some foreign cars need repair more often than our domestics. I was a professional mechanic before I retired I'm 63 and I've seen it all your good... Nice job on the antique street cars
Ford mo. A's original equipment and all.
Your Friend.
Dwight from Allenpark
SE michigan Detroit
Above and to the
W. Of Lake Erie.
You look like you realy enjoy your life I can see you are a good mechanic too I am enjoy your videos
I was a mechanic
For 30 years still work on some things from time to time.
See you later.
Thank you, Dwight!! I am thankful to be alive. These cars bring great joy.
I didn't hear the part where you said that only brass nuts are used for the exhaust manifold & not pretty cad plated ones. And we use brass because...............................?
Something Snyder’s is carrying now that connects exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe - no-nut required connection. Back portion is threaded so you only bolt on. Real slick.
Never heard of that. Do you have a part number?
@@ModelA A-5251-X
Thank you for your time for the video and I’m getting closer to my first model A.
Excellent!
Nice job. Many others will learn much from watching. Perhaps a video using the old manifold show how to sand it smooth would help?
That's a good idea. Thanks! Will add that to the "to do" list.
This video came up on my feed. Ahh... Here is the Tudor again. :)
Beautiful car, restoration beautifully done! Thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it
On one episode you remounted a front license plate on the front bumper using a two piece rear license mounting bracket. I've looked at several companies but no one sells a two piece. Where did you purchase yours's ? .......Steve
I put a link to the one I bought and used in the video in the description of that video. Just scroll down and you'll see the link.
Hey Paul, great videos. I just got a 1930 Tudor same color as yours. Not in nearly as good of shape as yours but it runs and drives and I love it.
Thanks Paul for a great video. Helped me get through my first manifold gasket change. Keep up the great videos !!
Glad it helped
Phillips Milk of Magnesia is great antisieze. Used it on Turbine engine ignitors.
Astounding how many people don't know that simple trick. I've mentioned it to friends with tech 2 ratings & been looked at like I had antlers growing out of my head. Complete disbelief.
I always enjoy watching your videos!
Interesting, I did this with my 1928 Tudor and found that there was a recess for gland rings on my intake manifold as well.
Putting aside the non - overhead valve engineering, the manifolds for this engine actually look surprisingly advanced for the era in which they were produced. Compare them unit for unit with carbed int/exh manifolds from any us manufacturer produced in the 70s/80s, *including Ford* & the newer designs look absolutely clunky next to them. It's like time flowed backwards for several decades.
Paul I joined MAFICA and The Arizona Model A Restorers Club. I sent you a picture of my Model A with my parents in the picture. Question for you. I think my gaskets are shot. Especially the head gasket. What is the best way to diagnose this problem
Q? ~ Where did the paper fuel filter in the glass fuel bowel come from? Thanx. Ours only has a very fine screen.
It's a Wix 3033 turned upside down.
Another great video. The exhaust manifold on my 30 Fordor cracked, so thanks for this video.
Dang!! How's it going?
@@ModelA , this is ET. I ordered the manifold where you suggested, ordered studs, nuts, washers, gaskets. I'll uncover my sander as we discussed, and hopefully get her running soon. I still have plenty to do; new grease zerks, trim screws, and check front end to see if the tie rods have guts in them.
Be safe.
After watching this, and thinking about my own lack of facilities, I am considering calling my first series : From the Carport. Should get interesting when the rain comes again.
Hey, that's a pretty good idea!! Let me know if I can help.
Thank you Paul! I was curious about gland rings and where they go! My manifold didn't have they 29 Town Sedan Murry Built!
Learned so much from your video and I like your cars. I own a 1973 VW Camper which I'm always getting under the deck and I can use this information. Thanks for the Video.
Very nice repair video.
I was sad to see that you scratched and dented you oil filter a little when you removed the manifold the first time.
You have some wonderful cars and produce some great videos featuring the Ford Model A.
Thank you, Grady! I don't care about that oil filter. It won't be on there much longer anyway. It's just a regular spin-on Motorcraft $5 filter that I painted to match the motor. I buy and paint 2-3 at a time and have them on the shelf.
I needed this video about a year ago, I had the same issue... I didn’t know about using the rings... after trying several different things I ended up using them and they worked great... still no issues 🤞🏻 great video! Would love to see how you machine them for flatness...
Just a belt sander. Nothing hi-tech.
Thank you for the video Paul, I just purchased a 1928 Model A and it has a exhaust leak in the same spot. So I’m going to do this and hope it’s only a gasket issue. 😊
Good luck!
@@ModelA The gasket was toast, can I still use gland rings if I don’t need a new manifold, the catalog said for new manifold
Yes
Excellent video like all your material, thanks. Question: You are using a chemical gasket maker between the exhaust muffler and inlet manifold connection flanges. Do you recommend using only that to achieve good sealing, or also the copper insert they sell. I used the insert only and have a leak. I thought it would be redundant to use a chemical gasket.
The inserts leak. The red (high temp) sealant doesn't leak.
Parabéns elogiável mecânico Paulo! É um prazer assistir seus vídeos.
Hey Paul love your great explanation on your videos. Got a question. On the channel Two Guys and a Ride, bout a year ago titled daily driver 1930 or 31 Model A. At about 4:15 into the interview the question was asked, since he had the car since high school and now he’s up in age, how fast have you had her. Reply, bout 70. But that’s too hard on a long stroke engine.
Before I started pulling mine apart for paint, I would drive my Model A Coupe Deluxe everywhere within Parish lines. One day I was making a parts run for another project and saw in the distance one of the SPEED NOTIFIERS IN CONSTRUCTION ZONE. To let you you know how fast you are going, so naturally I stomped it, when I passed it, I was wide open running the Good Gulf. It said my top speed was 51. On the way home I knew where it was so I had all the start I needed and got the same result. I run it about 40-42 normally, cause that’s where she likes it. I of course would like it more if she liked it closer to 55. The old gentleman being interviewed said that’s where his is comfortable. Now admittedly he’s said the engine has been out about 10 or 12 times. Cause any work needed the engine’s gonna be in the way. I don’t know anything about the internals of my engine, don’t smoke, and only drops about 2 drops when I park her. She’s no trouble at all. But just saying, if a guy wanted that 55, what would he need in the engine to accomplish this?
I'm just guessing maybe your timing is off or the carb is out of whack. A stock Model A should have absolutely no trouble getting up to 55. Maybe your motor is really tired?
Have a few model A’s and love your videos thanks for posting. I have a 28 pickup. A Gordon smith model a air compressor and a 1930 model a powered logging equipment.
are the crankshaft in model a's cross plane because they sound as rumbly as v8s
Awesome video! The aftermarket reproduction manifold still looks good.
Thanks Getis!
Paul... I do hope you see this message... You have become my go to guy when I have an issue with my 31. I just had to change out my manifold gaskets. I added the glad rings and now I see the issue with the small copper gaskets.. Can you tell me who makes the copper gaskets with the larger openings or where to buy them?
Mike's and Bert's sell them for sure. I think Bratton's and Snyder's might.
Thank you@@ModelA
Paul, Mike's had them and they have a special part number: A9433C2
It sounds like a Ford. What more need be said......except that you ground the gears when you backed out. Thank you for the excellent lesson, Paul.
On the flange from the exhaust pipe to the man idols did you use anything other than the gasket maker ?
No. Just what you saw. Sealed perfectly. The trick is to use an Aries muffler, not the cheapo ones.
Probable cause for the manifold cracking is thermal expansion. To reduce the chance of a repeated thermal expansion crack use a lower torque and always use the rings.
Hi I have one like this I would like to find a good home its been in storage over 50 yes any ideas?
If you're a MAFCA or MARC member, you can advertise it to Model A enthusiasts on their websites for free! If not, I know people who have positive things to say about selling classics on Hemmings.com
@billyfromtheusa yes
You do great work and the motor is so clean.
Thank you very much!
I see a spin on 1-A oil filter on your rig, In my day, I do not remember working on any "A's" with a spin on.... Is it a retrofit ? Btw, Great job, very clean ! (or, maybe it was on the "T's"?)
Thanks! That is an aftermarket add-on.
Does anyone know where I can get that in-bowl fuel filter? Most places I've found seem to be sold out!
I get them at my local O'Reilly's. If they don't have them in stock, they will get it next day.
I keep watching and learning from these videos, even though I don't (sadly) own a Model A. One thing that I continually notice, is not only are your engines extremely clean, the paint on them is very shiny so the look like new. I re-painted the engine in my Flathead V8 about two years ago-it is no longer shiny like that. Do you have any advice/recommendations to keeping the engine shiny sir?
Thank you! I have mild autism. I tend to obsess over trivial things and ignore big things. To keep your motor looking new, use 303 Aerospace Protectant to clean it.
Thank you sir!
@@ModelA
wonder why he didnt use the copper washer and sleeve in exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe
Because if your muffler has the proper flare on the manifold end, you don't need it. They didn't come from the factory with it either.
I really like the single bolt muffler to manifold clamp....sooo much easier.
It IS easier. But not original. My OCD got the better of me. Yes, yes, I know this car isn't even close to original, but still..
Have a weird question. What is the stock height of the center of the front spring off the axle on a model A pickup?
Which year and model?
Paul good mornig,
could you pls inform the part number and where I can order the engine oil filter adaptor you have your engine equipped with, thanks!
Regards,
Myron
www.brattons.com/oil-filter-kit.html
I was watching the removal of the manifold and noticed that besides the leak at No. 4 cylinder, there looked like a leak at No. 1 on the bottom half of the exhaust port. So, by fixing the leak at No. 4, you fixed the leak at No. 1. This is called a 'two for'. haha.
My model a had a leak in the no. 4 cylinder as-well. It had a fel pro gasket on it. They are terrible. Also the no. 4 cylinder section of the manifold was warped badly. I put a copper gasket back on, replaced the manifold, and put some gland rings in.
Hi just want to say love your channel. I have a quick question I have a 29 Phaton that is drinking gas. Less than a mile on a half gallon of gas. Have tried everything, not sure what else to do. Valves are in spec, timing is dead on. Carb is not leaking, no fuel leaks anywhere. Tried two different carbs. Still just sucks it down. GAV valve 1/4 turn out. Any ideas?
Wow. That is excessive fuel consumption!! I presume your spark plugs are wet and black, no? In your case, I would attempt the nuclear opton- Rebuild the dist, carb, the works. I would also pull the ignition cable and check it over VERY well. Last thing to check would be to see if the cam walked. Set timing using timing gear dimple, then pull #1 spark plug and make sure it is at TDC. you might have skipped a tooth.
Paul, another great video. I was absorbed through the work process. Thank you.
I'm surprised to see an Oil Filter. Stock?
Did you put Thread-Lock on the manifold nuts?
The torque sequence is unlike what I've know. Is it really OK going from rear to front? No crisscrossing?
No threadlock. You don't want or need it. The manifold bolts are all in a row, not in a box or round pattern, so inline torque sequence is what you want. The oil filter is an add-on. I like using them on touring cars. Thanks!
@@ModelA Thanks Paul.
Paul thanks for all your videos. My great grandfathers model A finally arrived to Tucson this past week and is sitting in my garage. And well, it’s in a lot worse shape than I thought. I have a couple questions.
1. It sounds like it’s backfiring when I drive and even when at idle at times. At first I thought maybe it wasn’t getting fuel, but upon first inspection I see soot around the manifold where it meets the block. I’m assuming an exhaust leak. thoughts?
2. I’ve watched your video where you’ve rebuilt the distributor and timed the car. Before the the truck arrived I bought a the ford wrench to turn the crank so could find TDC, but the wrench doesn’t fit around the nut. I have a 1929 AA and it looks like the nut at the end of the crank is meant for a special tool may grandfather may have used with his manual hand crank, are Those a different shape than a normal wrench similar to what I see you using in your video?
3. Finally- I decided to be brave and remove the distributor so I could see if the point are correct… well they are far from correct. The issue I’m running into is the distributor is sieved in the block so I can’t pull it. I purchased a distributor puller from Braxtons last night, but my question is, can I keep the lower distributor rod or do these typically need to be pulled and replaced as well at this point?
4. On my first drive after pulling it off the transport truck I couldn’t get above about 10-15 miles MPH, do you think any of the issues mentioned above could be the problem or is this more of a carburetor issue?
Thanks again and sorry for the long questions
Congratulatios!
1- Time for new manifold gaskets. Make sure the manifolds are flat also. That video shows how.
2- Someone probably installed whatever nut they had on hand. Just order up the correct nut and replace.
3- If the lower shaft is in good shape, keep it.
4- Could be lots of things. Start by fixing the dizzy and getting it timed right.
You should do a video on doing the ignition timing. I know how. But many would find it novel.
Funny you should ask. That's the video I'm working on right now! Might have it ready to upload in a few more weeks. Depends on how busy I am at work.
@catmodelt Reverse the pin and use it to find top dead center when setting the clearance on the points.
I'm a new model A owner, '31 sport coupe which currently needs the GAV opened 1/2 turn to idle smoothly and avoid stalling when I stop. One likely reason for that I'm told is a vacuum leak though spraying starter fluid around the intake manifold and carb hasn't revealed anything yet. Doesn't seem like there's play when trying to wiggle the throttle shaft, I'm strongly suspecting a vacuum leak from the port that goes to the wiper motor (wiper currently doesn't work)
I didn't see in the video a gasket going between the carb and the intake, but I'm assuming you did. If so did you use sealant there and what did you torque the bolts to? Love your channel, fantastic resource!!!
I would suspect that wiper as well. Yes, gasket on the carb but no sealant. Torque to "about there".
Paul
Do you have a good source for the green engine paint? Loving your videos. Thanks.
I buy it in spray cans from Bert's Model A Center
Hello Paul. I have a 1929 Ford model A sport coupe early model. I have two. questions: #1 my Car is missing it’s soft top, so where can I get do it your self instructions to replace the top? #2 My car has the original plate glass windshield and side roll up windows. Where can I get new safety glass to replace the plate glass?
Hey Glenn. I haven't done a Sport Coupe top replacement video yet. But I will someday. The Model A windshield was safety glass right from the factory. But if you want to i stall safety glass all the way around, you can order the glass pre-cut and ready to install from most of the Model A parts suppliers. For example- www.mikes-afordable.com/SRCH.html?SearchOffset=72&Offset=72&Search=Glass&Per_Page=12
Hey Paul, I am a new subscriber to your channel and I am throughly enjoying it. Keep up the good work!! i have a question for you. I see that you use both versions of oil filter attachment. Which one is your true preference. I have ordered the timing chain housing version. Am i wrong in thinking that either of the two are full flow anyway.
I use whichever one is on my shelf at the time. No preference. The one that mounts on the side of the valve cover is full flow.
Paul my exhaust manifold has the classic droop on the rear port and is leaking there and at the clamp. I just had the manifold shaved and added new copper gaskets but it still leaks. Should I have the reproduction manifold shaved with the intake manifold together for sure? And do you think I can reuse the new copper gasket or should I just get a new one as well? Thanks brother for these great videos!
You should always "shave" the manifolds together. Reuse the gasket? Only if I don't have a new one and I need to get home on it. Thanks!
A warped manifold is going to fail yet again, take it off, have it trued up by a good shop, forget any 'sealers', the rings are OK but nothing beats a straight & true manifold. I use a soft copper gasket in the exhaust connection, this helps a lot with that.
The manifold is not warped. What gave you the idea it was? As mentioned, I use sealer on the block side because the block casting is not machined perfectly flat like the manifold is. The rest of what you say is absolutely true.
Hi Paul do you have a video on a crankshaft for 1930 model A..? We bought an rebuild engine and I see welds on the shaft?
I don't have a video specifically on crankshafts. Sorry, Victor. Welds on the crankshaft?? Did someone add counterweights?
It's common to add weld-on counterweights.
I have to replace the manifold gaskets on my car that has the fiber gaskets currently.
You'll be glad you did
Do you think it’s still possible to find one it’s in a barn somewhere is unrestored I could never afford to buy one that’s restored but maybe one that’s not i would love a model a truck
I have a 1930 Ford pickup basket case I've been trying to sell. It has clean title.
@@ModelA Where can I see pictures and price
@@ChestnutCove No pictures, and $2K. But it might be sold now. I got an email from a guy who read this comment section and sent me an email. Coming tomorrow to look at it.
@@ModelA oh wow let me Just let me know that would’ve been perfect
He came today to get it. Sorry man.
Are the exhaust manifold weldable? I have an autolite heater manifold and I can't seem to come across another one
I believe those are cast iron. If so, yes and no. They are all over the place. Hit up a swap meet and you'll see them all over.
@ModelA how do I find the next swap meet near me?
@@brandtmagolon454 Hemmings is a good source, but your nearest Model A club is even better. If you go to www.MAFCA.com you can find a page that has a map and shows all the MAFCA clubs. You will also see who to contact and an email or phone number for the contact person.
Great video - I'm not very familiar with flathead architecture, how is it there are 4 exhaust manifold ports and only 2 intake manifold ports? Do the intake runners split internal to the head?
One intake port feeds a gallery in the block that feeds intake valves in two cylinders. the valves in order would be E,I,I,E,E,I,I,E where E is the exhaust valve and I is the intake valve. Henry Ford was a terrible human being, but a genius engineer.
clockguy2 thanks for the explanation. You’re right about H. Ford.
Soooooo,I just watched this. I'll be doing that when a few parts come in. I've got exactly what you said in the beginning,little ticking here and there. So thx again..
Glad to help, Dean!! With your talents, this job will be simple for you.
@@ModelA LOL.THX
Newbie question here. I have a 1930 Model A with a 1929 engine. One of the first things Paul did in this video was to remove the vacuum line, which goes up to the firewall, from the intake manifold. My car has NO vacuum line here. Just a plug in the manifold and an open un-plugged hole into the firewall. So, I guess my question is two-parted: 1) what is the function of the vacuum line there, and 2) is it necessary for proper performance? That line has been absent since I've owned the car (2 years) and the car seems to run fine without it (or maybe I only think it runs fine). Please tell me what I need to know here. Thanks
It is for the wiper. Your car probably has an electric windshield wiper. In that case- Just ignore.
OK, so I watched the video all the way through and Paul explained that the vacuum line is for windshield wipers, which my car does not have. The only remaining question is, should I plug that hole in the firewall to keep crud out of it? Or, is there no harm in leaving it unplugged? I do live on a dusty road, so I'm thinking it might be good just to go ahead and plug it. Thanks for your attention to my questions!
@@ModelA Thank you, sir. Much appreciate your work and passion!
Thank you for watching!