Get 10% off any order fo $100 or more at ModelAtshirts.com by using promo code "Shinn" at checkout. www.ModelAtshirts.com This is NOT a paid ad. I receive nothing from orders. This is strictly for YOU, not me.
There's an old mechanic's axiom "The job isn't finished until it draws blood". I've found this to be true over a half-century of bending wrenches, and you've proven it once again!
Your idea about using screw drive radiator hose clamps first is spot on, but I think the reason why the original type do not work as well is the metal tab UNDER the screw is digging in and stopping it being tightened down. I was told to put some grease on the area of the hose where that tab is enabling the tab to slide instead of digging in. This is a common struggle with us WWII Jeep owners as well.
It has to do with the clamp geometry. the clamp screw is so far above the hose surface, the metal tabs try to bend in and down instead of all around evenly. Back when Model A hoses were softer, these clamps were adequate to seal them. But today's hoses last a LOT longer, and are much tougher and need to be trained with worm clamps before the era correct clamps will provide enough grab to seal the hoses to the inlets and outlets properly.
I don't own a model A but I've been arounds cars my whole life and I like watching you work on them. I restored a 1968 Mustang doing everything myself except the paint. My first car was a 1960 Ford Fairlane in the mid 70's and most of my cars have been Fords
I get to live vicariously threw your channel, love watching you give us all this vast information. You probably told us in a past video, but can you let us know what adhesive you used for the rubber pads under the radiator? Yes it's threading, looks good on the spring tension, your hole is a little off, you got it! I do the same with distilled water, I don't use antifreeze on the first fill. Enjoy watching these instructional videos, especially when I am a person that learns a lot by someone else demonstrating it.Thanks Paul, I hope you have a great weekend.
This was the best and most informative video on radiator removal and replacement. Thanks for doing it. Even though your hoses are only about a year old. I always replace them.
The way I don't hear a clock ticking is to crank up the shop stereo !! We once again have been accepted to Motor Muster for 2024. Already feeling excited to be there again, contacted one of my old friends and we will be with our friends for the weekend. I am hoping this will be a better year for us. Still fighting the "out of breath" conditions from the heart issues but with better weather I'll be more active and moving around. It's been a mild winter here, just got hit with 4 inches of snow but it's melting away. Glad to see more how to videos and keeping me inspired, despite the health concerns. 73 my friend. de N8IWS & N8KIG.
Great video Paul! Once this crazy weather breaks in Ohio, putting our radiator back in and installing our new wiring harness are our next steps in our restoration project. Timing couldn’t have been better, THANK YOU!!!
Congrats! Excellent vid as usual and right on time. I am going thru the same project as we speak! Wish you all the best. Evandro Fullin from Brazil (1931 DeLuxe Roadster 40-B)
I'm way late to the party (visited our younger son yesterday) and had to write THANK YOU! Well recorded and well explained. Full confession - yeah - needed a restroom break. Also, I noted when you installed the lower radiator bolts, you too practice automotive yoga. I believe it keeps us young. Putting the hood on alone - darn impressive sir! Once again, thank you so very much. Have a great week ~ Chuck
Hi Paul & Tina,This has Nothing to do with your latest video. I have owned my 1931 Delux Washington Blue, Tacoma creme, Lebaron Boney interior, Roadster for over 60 years. (numbers matching) I'm the second owner and I've fully restored everything mostly myself. Just had the motor totally restored for the first time - did the inserted, stock head, modern valve guides, valve seats , oil filter everything you recommended, stock flywheel & clutch and I've now got 2000 Miles, it's great. I like to keep a spare of a few restored tested items with my car -carb, distributor, water pump in the case of a roadside emergency. Recently In restoring a spare distributor, I did new bushings- honed to size, new drilled shaft, original style points & condenser. In the parts illustration in Les Andrews vol1. it's not clear where the condenser fiber washer goes. Is it between the 10/32 X 7/32" screw and the condenser, or between the lower plate and the condenser -? Or does it go between the 8/32 X 1/4" screw on the distributor body? Thank you,
Excellent! YOU really are the warranty! The answer is toward the end of this video - ruclips.net/video/GP7Bk9Fa-B4/видео.html Along with an explanation of why
Looks like Tina has been hitting the gym. Go girl! I never knew what changing a radiator was all about until I had to do a 32 Chrysler Imperial. Funny thing about it was the new radiator custom built was only about $800.00. And yes it took 2 of us.
Great video's, I will be pulling my 1929 radiator, and have it rodded, also we will be putting a new roof on, great to have these videos, keep up the great made in the USA work!
By the way I do not miss any of your videos, Paul! You do an outstanding job of teaching and pumping up our love for the wonderful As! God bless you and Tina. Best regards from your friend in Brazil ❤
Awesome video made in the USA. I learned a few tricks especially not to wear a Model A hood as a hat. Haha. Great way to start the weekend by watching you in action Model A Guy!
Paul, you said in your reply that after the rewiring is done, then the wind shield is on the list. When the new wiring harness is put in the directional signals will be hooked up. so, are you going with the old style signal switch? The one that you installed on a previous video. The one that you said is VERY rare.
After further research Paul, the model I'm talking about is the Signal-Stat Model 700. It's a wonder some one doesn't pick up the design and remake them.
Hahaaa! Awesome! I sure wish someone made a model car kit of a 1931 sport coupe. I have a tiny HO scale one, but it just looks like a little dot on the bookcase. Do you know of any kits?
Super video. I been trying to figure out how to adjust my hood seam gaps & this explained it perfect. THANK YOU!! By the way, What was wrong with the rasiator you already replaced?
So Paul, you're doing such a good job here, now what about the windshield? How much would a new piece of glass cost to replace the existing windshield? Thanks.
The 1928 and 1929 Model As have a slightly shorter radiator, the 1930 and 1931 Model A's have a taller radiator. There is a slight difference in cooling capability between the taller and shorter radiators, and Ford knew that, thus the reason for the change. However, if your 28/29 radiator is clean (no clogged tubes) and the fins stay attached to the tubes, it's pretty difficult to make a 28/29 overheat.
Oh, Paul! Would you take the time to explain why it is important to use the springs? Some people may be tempted 🤔 to mount the liquid filled heat exchanger with nuts and bolts only! Bad idea...
Yes, frame flex. The frame acts as a large spring! The early hot rods flexed the frame so badly that they were known as 'flexy flyers'. Even today with unitized body construction, flex has to accounted for.
That fan is absolutely perfect. Some of the repro 4-blade fans were not made very well. This one was made in USA, prior to the ones made out of chinesium being sold.
What I am curious about are how does one select tires. There seems to be a dimension change between the '29 ad '31 tires, but what bout which brands work well, and which don't?
Genuine Ford (Model A era) tools are made in USA. If you use foreign made tools, that is a personal choice. I like using American made tools on my American made cars. It just gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling inside. Kinda like how soda pop does, only better.
Paul I have a question for you about the radiator. My 1930 coupe has a good radiator, however the fill neck is messed up. Someone put an extra set of groves in and it is short. With my radiator shell in place there is only about 1/8 or less sticking above. This in turn does not allow the cap to get a good seal. Every so often I have a spotty windshield because coolant is leaking out by the cap and spraying on my windshield and shell. Are there radiator shops that could weld a new brass neck or should I get a new radiator. Btw I’m praying for the people of Ruidoso and several people from my club are going to NM yo do a smaller tour. I’m the one that sent you a picture of my car with my parents in it. Thanks for the help. An enthusiastic model Aer Andrew
Hey Andrew! Of course I remember you. A 1930 or 31 radiator cap should sit pretty low. when I take the cap off of my 30 and on my 31, the top of the neck (the brass part) is about flush with the radiator shell. the cap fits down and in between the shell and the neck. Like it is shrugging its shoulders. Is your radiator's neck way below the shell or about even with it? And, getting a little spray on the window, particularly when pushing it, like climbing a long hill, would mean either it was too full in the first place, or the head gasket could be leaking.
@@ModelA I checked the torque many times. I think it is the seal on the cap. I bought a new cap and I had to take about 3/4 inch off. Either that or my shell is messed up. I will retorque again and I will see if I can send you a picture of it. Btw one of the guys that helped me with the cap said he knows you well. He is the vp of the club I’m in Mr. Joop
Oh yes, I know Joop and Marlies very well! Very nice people! If you have a look at this video- ruclips.net/video/Cveg5ivBlWw/видео.html you will see my 30 coupe with the radiator cap off. Is that how yours looks?
Trusty assistant? Hmm, sounds to me like Beaker! The trusty assistant on the Muppets! Sorry, Tina. I'm going to send you some pom-poms so model T can be your cheer leader as well as assistant. Good stuff! Tanks and grenades!
Sorry, Paul, but the female parental unit in the family states that I am not to reinstall the hood without help. I only do what the voices in my wife's head tell her to tell me to do. Happy wife, happy life!
Craftsman, works every time :-) been using them for 50 + years... I know you know Daryl, from VVG, Hitch Hiker side or Drinker Side. Driver V.S. ... you are both so funny. I sure like the simpler times, but that white Ford sure turned out so nice. You have mentioned Made in The U.S. of A. things several times, cotter pins too? Seems China has replaced so much American business. American business is not looking for Quality, just the bottom like. &, you know, if you look at the bottom, that is what you will hit. What has Toyota done, for decades? How can our product improve so our buyers will enjoy it more? Toyota & Honda have quite a following, Because their stuff lasts a long time, & Holds value. I had a GM car, 12 years, 200K - almost - miles, $300. & most of that was highway miles - & why it lasted... American Business. You need to take a Hard Look at where you are going, & WHY. If Not... Dust in the wind. Thank you for your videos.
Greatly enjoy your videos ,bought a 1934 Ford pick-up no rust no dents we like driving it ,short drives, it is equipped with an overdrive behind the 3 speed transmission. however it is pretty noisy in the high side. Itis new enough to me I use fender covers even to check the oil. Please keep the videos cumming .
THANKS Paul and Tina for these great videos! LOVE the tip about using the modern clamps before putting on the "correct" style! Awesome! Wish I had a Gandolf!
As an extremely novice "Model A Expert", My first tip is Don't try to remove or reinstall your hood by yourself! THAT looked very difficult and possibly dangerous.
To be serviced by Authorized Ford Personnel Only☠. No User Serviceable Parts Inside😡. Are you a Factory Trained Technician, Licensed, Certified, and Bonded. If not don't touch. Warranty Void💀. 🤣🤣🤣 Have a nice day, Mike
I'm aware this is a older video I watched it again because I just changed a 28 radiator for a friend. I'm having a very tough time getting the hood to sit nice ! WHY😅 THX MR S
OK, sounds like the cowl is too low or the radiator is too high. You can lower the radiator by getting thinner rubber pads for under the tabs. Or maybe there's more than one rubber pad under there?? You could also shim the front of the cowl, but be careful because it will affect the door alignment also.
Get 10% off any order fo $100 or more at ModelAtshirts.com by using promo code "Shinn" at checkout. www.ModelAtshirts.com This is NOT a paid ad. I receive nothing from orders. This is strictly for YOU, not me.
There's an old mechanic's axiom "The job isn't finished until it draws blood". I've found this to be true over a half-century of bending wrenches, and you've proven it once again!
Hahaaa! It's funny because it's true.
I thought it was "Turning Wrench" You worked then in "The Busted Knuckle Garage".😊
Oh yes! These are my favorite videos Paul. "How to work on your Ford Model A" videos. Thank You!
This video was made in the USA..
Another great video Paul
And I approve this message...
Your idea about using screw drive radiator hose clamps first is spot on, but I think the reason why the original type do not work as well
is the metal tab UNDER the screw is digging in and stopping it being tightened down. I was told to put some grease on the area of the hose where that
tab is enabling the tab to slide instead of digging in. This is a common struggle with us WWII Jeep owners as well.
It has to do with the clamp geometry. the clamp screw is so far above the hose surface, the metal tabs try to bend in and down instead of all around evenly. Back when Model A hoses were softer, these clamps were adequate to seal them. But today's hoses last a LOT longer, and are much tougher and need to be trained with worm clamps before the era correct clamps will provide enough grab to seal the hoses to the inlets and outlets properly.
I don't own a model A but I've been arounds cars my whole life and I like watching you work on them. I restored a 1968 Mustang doing everything myself except the paint. My first car was a 1960 Ford Fairlane in the mid 70's and most of my cars have been Fords
Excellent! And, thank you.
I get to live vicariously threw your channel, love watching you give us all this vast information. You probably told us in a past video, but can you let us know what adhesive you used for the rubber pads under the radiator? Yes it's threading, looks good on the spring tension, your hole is a little off, you got it! I do the same with distilled water, I don't use antifreeze on the first fill. Enjoy watching these instructional videos, especially when I am a person that learns a lot by someone else demonstrating it.Thanks Paul, I hope you have a great weekend.
Thank you Dan! It's just clear silicone.
@@ModelA ah, I got it thanks
This was the best and most informative video on radiator removal and replacement. Thanks for doing it. Even though your hoses are only about a year old. I always replace them.
About a year old, but only about 90 minutes of engine run time on them.
Enjoyed the video and especially the tips on aligning the hood!
Thanks Rick! Coming from someone as experienced and knowledgeable as yourself, that is quite the compliment!
Oh, and let's not forget, you're a hall of famer!! Massive respect, man!
The way I don't hear a clock ticking is to crank up the shop stereo !! We once again have been accepted to Motor Muster for 2024. Already feeling excited to be there again, contacted one of my old friends and we will be with our friends for the weekend. I am hoping this will be a better year for us. Still fighting the "out of breath" conditions from the heart issues but with better weather I'll be more active and moving around. It's been a mild winter here, just got hit with 4 inches of snow but it's melting away. Glad to see more how to videos and keeping me inspired, despite the health concerns. 73 my friend. de N8IWS & N8KIG.
Alright!! I sure hope you feel better, OM. You could hear how I get out of breath. These heart problems suck!!
Made in the U.S.A. items, i love that comment.
Thank you! I'm already getting a lot of flak about it. I presume from people who hate America?
Great video Paul! Once this crazy weather breaks in Ohio, putting our radiator back in and installing our new wiring harness are our next steps in our restoration project. Timing couldn’t have been better, THANK YOU!!!
Sounds great! YOU are the warranty!!
Congrats! Excellent vid as usual and right on time. I am going thru the same project as we speak! Wish you all the best. Evandro Fullin from Brazil (1931 DeLuxe Roadster 40-B)
I'm way late to the party (visited our younger son yesterday) and had to write THANK YOU! Well recorded and well explained. Full confession - yeah - needed a restroom break. Also, I noted when you installed the lower radiator bolts, you too practice automotive yoga. I believe it keeps us young. Putting the hood on alone - darn impressive sir! Once again, thank you so very much. Have a great week ~ Chuck
Thanks Chuck! How's the boy?
@@ModelA Bless you for asking. He’s doing very well. He’s in a doctorate program. He must have gotten his intelligence from his mom.
@@charlesdalton985 Wow! Kid is doing well! Good job mom! Hahaa.
@@ModelA You are so right about her. Thanks again for asking. Bless you both ~ Chuck
RC cola sounds good! i havent had one for a long time
It is the only beverage company that hasn't gone "woke".
Hi Paul & Tina,This has Nothing to do with your latest video. I have owned my 1931 Delux Washington Blue, Tacoma creme, Lebaron Boney interior, Roadster for over 60 years. (numbers matching) I'm the second owner and I've fully restored everything mostly myself. Just had the motor totally restored for the first time - did the inserted, stock head, modern valve guides, valve seats , oil filter everything you recommended, stock flywheel & clutch and I've now got 2000 Miles, it's great. I like to keep a spare of a few restored tested items with my car -carb, distributor, water pump in the case of a roadside emergency. Recently In restoring a spare distributor, I did new bushings- honed to size, new drilled shaft, original style points & condenser. In the parts illustration in Les Andrews vol1. it's not clear where the condenser fiber washer goes. Is it between the 10/32 X 7/32" screw and the condenser, or between the lower plate and the condenser -? Or does it go between the 8/32 X 1/4" screw on the distributor body? Thank you,
Excellent! YOU really are the warranty! The answer is toward the end of this video - ruclips.net/video/GP7Bk9Fa-B4/видео.html
Along with an explanation of why
Aloha Paul & Tina,
I’m so happy you’re showing work on “Stella” again!! She’s a beautiful car 🤙🏽
It runs and drives so nice too.
Looks like Tina has been hitting the gym. Go girl! I never knew what changing a radiator was all about until I had to do a 32 Chrysler Imperial. Funny thing about it was the new radiator custom built was only about $800.00. And yes it took 2 of us.
Such a good video to maintain the proper temperature
Thanks for another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video's, I will be pulling my 1929 radiator, and have it rodded, also we will be putting a new roof on, great to have these videos, keep up the great made in the USA work!
Hey Paul. Very cool 😅😃. Ya putting the hood by yourself was a lot easier when I was younger. I now need help!
Thank
See you down a country road!
Steve
Not a job for the weak!
By the way I do not miss any of your videos, Paul! You do an outstanding job of teaching and pumping up our love for the wonderful As! God bless you and Tina. Best regards from your friend in Brazil ❤
Awesome! Thank you!
this was perfect to help us know how to improve the gaps and alignment on our hood. thanks!
Glad it helped, Andy!
Great job ! how about showing how to redo the windshield on Gandoff as an idea
That is the plan
Awesome video made in the USA. I learned a few tricks especially not to wear a Model A hood as a hat. Haha. Great way to start the weekend by watching you in action Model A Guy!
Most uncomfortable hat ever
Paul, you said in your reply that after the rewiring is done, then the wind shield is on the list. When the new wiring harness is put in the directional signals will be hooked up. so, are you going with the old style signal switch? The one that you installed on a previous video. The one that you said is VERY rare.
After further research Paul, the model I'm talking about is the Signal-Stat Model 700. It's a wonder some one doesn't pick up the design and remake them.
It will be a Bratton's wire harness using the actuator that comes with it.
Great video Paul! One of these days when I get a model A I'll know how to change the radiator! 😉
Hahaaa! Awesome! I sure wish someone made a model car kit of a 1931 sport coupe. I have a tiny HO scale one, but it just looks like a little dot on the bookcase. Do you know of any kits?
Yep, monogram does. Let me see what I can come up with.
WHAT??! That would be awesome! I have never seen one.
P.S... I think this is your best video, great job .Thank You
Wow, thank you!
Super video. I been trying to figure out how to adjust my hood seam gaps & this explained it perfect. THANK YOU!! By the way, What was wrong with the rasiator you already replaced?
It is only a 2-core. I am going to be shipping Gandalf to another continent for some touring this year. The car has to be bullet-proof reliable.
So Paul, you're doing such a good job here, now what about the windshield? How much would a new piece of glass cost to replace the existing windshield? Thanks.
That video is coming up!
Hi, love your videos! Your recores, how many tube rows and how many fins.
3 row, 10 fins (I think)
Quick question. I see some model a with big and small radiators whats the difference in performance?
The 1928 and 1929 Model As have a slightly shorter radiator, the 1930 and 1931 Model A's have a taller radiator. There is a slight difference in cooling capability between the taller and shorter radiators, and Ford knew that, thus the reason for the change. However, if your 28/29 radiator is clean (no clogged tubes) and the fins stay attached to the tubes, it's pretty difficult to make a 28/29 overheat.
For the Model A? Did Ford import any parts? Even from Ford of Europe! Or Australia?
His shell came easier than has been my experience!
Oh, Paul! Would you take the time to explain why it is important to use the springs? Some people may be tempted 🤔 to mount the liquid filled heat exchanger with nuts and bolts only! Bad idea...
Watch a Model A go over speed bumps sometime, and you'll know why the springs are there.
Yes, frame flex. The frame acts as a large spring! The early hot rods flexed the frame so badly that they were known as 'flexy flyers'. Even today with unitized body construction, flex has to accounted for.
I noticed Gandalf has a 4 blade fan. Read that many tours will not permit them. Wouldn't this have been the time to replace it?
That fan is absolutely perfect. Some of the repro 4-blade fans were not made very well. This one was made in USA, prior to the ones made out of chinesium being sold.
What I am curious about are how does one select tires. There seems to be a dimension change between the '29 ad '31 tires, but what bout which brands work well, and which don't?
This is ONLY my opinion- Stick with the name brands (Goodyear, Firestone, etc.). The 1928/29's have 21" wheels, the 30/3-'s have 19" wheels.
Does an AA truck radiator have extra cooling capacity? Will it fit in a car or are they the same?
Same radiator, from the factory on some. Later, some 4-core radiators were used and those worked better.
So Paul, are you saying if I use a " foreign made" tool, I'll mess up my radiator replacement? 😮 How about if I use my genuine Ford A tools?
Genuine Ford (Model A era) tools are made in USA. If you use foreign made tools, that is a personal choice. I like using American made tools on my American made cars. It just gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling inside. Kinda like how soda pop does, only better.
it looks like you dont run antifreeze in Gandolf is that correct
I run 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water AFTER making sure there are no leaks. I talked about that in the video
Good video Paul and Model T. I guess Model T is not going to get you a cuckoo clock for your garage as a birthday present anytime soon?
May i ask why is there a spring on the radiator mounting bolts?
To flex with the frame movement
@@ModelA thank you
I love watching you restoring Gandalf. Finally he wont be hoopty and will be driven :)
Yes!! Almost no hooptie left
LETSSS GOOOO
8:37 why does your windshield have a frosted look to it?
Original 1930 glass is delaminating. Video coming showing replacing it.
@@ModelA wonderful. Well about replacing it
Paul I have a question for you about the radiator. My 1930 coupe has a good radiator, however the fill neck is messed up. Someone put an extra set of groves in and it is short. With my radiator shell in place there is only about 1/8 or less sticking above. This in turn does not allow the cap to get a good seal. Every so often I have a spotty windshield because coolant is leaking out by the cap and spraying on my windshield and shell. Are there radiator shops that could weld a new brass neck or should I get a new radiator. Btw I’m praying for the people of Ruidoso and several people from my club are going to NM yo do a smaller tour. I’m the one that sent you a picture of my car with my parents in it. Thanks for the help.
An enthusiastic model Aer
Andrew
Hey Andrew! Of course I remember you. A 1930 or 31 radiator cap should sit pretty low. when I take the cap off of my 30 and on my 31, the top of the neck (the brass part) is about flush with the radiator shell. the cap fits down and in between the shell and the neck. Like it is shrugging its shoulders. Is your radiator's neck way below the shell or about even with it? And, getting a little spray on the window, particularly when pushing it, like climbing a long hill, would mean either it was too full in the first place, or the head gasket could be leaking.
@@ModelA I just put a new head gasket in
@@desertdawg3157 All the more reason to suspect it is not getting a good seal. Have you re-torqued it?
@@ModelA I checked the torque many times. I think it is the seal on the cap. I bought a new cap and I had to take about 3/4 inch off. Either that or my shell is messed up. I will retorque again and I will see if I can send you a picture of it. Btw one of the guys that helped me with the cap said he knows you well. He is the vp of the club I’m in Mr. Joop
Oh yes, I know Joop and Marlies very well! Very nice people! If you have a look at this video- ruclips.net/video/Cveg5ivBlWw/видео.html you will see my 30 coupe with the radiator cap off. Is that how yours looks?
Are model a supposed to have thermostats?
Nope. No thermostats
"Drive it like you know how to fix it!" LoL!!!
Right??!!!
Concerning replacing the wiring harness here is Paul's video (ruclips.net/video/1ABt_y8iXnc/видео.html)
Made in the USA is Great. Support our own.
Absolutely!!
Trusty assistant? Hmm, sounds to me like Beaker! The trusty assistant on the Muppets! Sorry, Tina. I'm going to send you some pom-poms so model T can be your cheer leader as well as assistant.
Good stuff! Tanks and grenades!
Thanks for another great video. Carmen not Clarmen
Did it happen again? OH NO!!!! I swear on my mom's grave, I am NOT doing it on purpose!!!! My friend, please forgive me.
How many kilometers does an old radiator go?
How many kilometers does a new radiator go?
by japanese model a mania
Sorry, Paul, but the female parental unit in the family states that I am not to reinstall the hood without help.
I only do what the voices in my wife's head tell her to tell me to do. Happy wife, happy life!
Craftsman, works every time :-) been using them for 50 + years... I know you know Daryl, from VVG, Hitch Hiker side or Drinker Side. Driver V.S. ... you are both so funny. I sure like the simpler times, but that white Ford sure turned out so nice. You have mentioned Made in The U.S. of A. things several times, cotter pins too? Seems China has replaced so much American business. American business is not looking for Quality, just the bottom like. &, you know, if you look at the bottom, that is what you will hit. What has Toyota done, for decades? How can our product improve so our buyers will enjoy it more? Toyota & Honda have quite a following, Because their stuff lasts a long time, & Holds value. I had a GM car, 12 years, 200K - almost - miles, $300. & most of that was highway miles - & why it lasted... American Business. You need to take a Hard Look at where you are going, & WHY. If Not... Dust in the wind. Thank you for your videos.
Right on, brother!!!
Is there anything you cannot do with a model A
A burnout
@@ModelA lol. It amazes me the confidence you have when working on your model A's
That's the things about a Model A. You can do ANYTHING on it, they are so simple!
@@ModelA well yes for the knowledgeable but for me it us a struggle, but I am learning
I didn't know squat about them not long ago. I learned. And you will too, but much faster than I do.
Hitchhiker Side because Drinker Side is Trade Marked by Vice Grip Garage.
I was saying "hitchhiker's side" long before he had a RUclips channel. I was saying that in the 1980's. There's a funny story behind it.
Greatly enjoy your videos ,bought a 1934 Ford pick-up no rust no dents we like driving it ,short drives, it is equipped with an overdrive behind the 3 speed transmission. however it is pretty noisy in the high side. Itis new enough to me I use fender covers even to check the oil. Please keep the videos cumming .
Nice!!! Now, YOU are the warranty!
BUMPER to TRAILER HITCH LOL@@ModelA
I was a bit disappointed that you didn't use your dad's made in the USA crescent wrench.
I did to open the petcock! But, you're right, I need to use it more.
I can really tell you are at home with Model As
Work on them a zillion times, and things just happen without having to give it a lot of thought.
Yes Paul, those (Chinese made😜) mice can be troublesome. Cheers
Yea! When they eat, 30 minutes later, they're just hungry again!
THANKS Paul and Tina for these great videos! LOVE the tip about using the modern clamps before putting on the "correct" style! Awesome! Wish I had a Gandolf!
Gandalf is going overseas for some touring. We might sell it when we're done.
Haha! Hitch hiker side!!😅
As an extremely novice "Model A Expert", My first tip is Don't try to remove or reinstall your hood by yourself! THAT looked very difficult and possibly dangerous.
I used to be able to do it effortlessly, when I was a younger man.
@@ModelA Looks like you've lost some weight.
Life-long Health problems
Dear Ms T - that's called upstaging & is mightily frowned upon....
Made in USA tools, I am figuring they either came with the car, someone kept the tools for a long time or they purchased them at a yard sale. HA!HA!
Handed down from grandpa
@@ModelA very good
Mouse traps........OK.
To be serviced by Authorized Ford Personnel Only☠. No User Serviceable Parts Inside😡. Are you a Factory Trained Technician, Licensed, Certified, and Bonded. If not don't touch. Warranty Void💀. 🤣🤣🤣 Have a nice day, Mike
HahhAaa!!!!!!
I'm aware this is a older video I watched it again because I just changed a 28 radiator for a friend. I'm having a very tough time getting the hood to sit nice ! WHY😅 THX MR S
Where's the gap? rear hinge line or front? top or bottom?
@ModelA IT wants to overlap against the radiator cowel at the base .. The spaces are at the bases of the cab cowel area. Thx Paul.
OK, sounds like the cowl is too low or the radiator is too high. You can lower the radiator by getting thinner rubber pads for under the tabs. Or maybe there's more than one rubber pad under there?? You could also shim the front of the cowl, but be careful because it will affect the door alignment also.