Made it for my son's home made dinausaurus observation tower (Montessori), best idea ever! No need to break my back again to move it all over the kitchen 😍
The step of using the spacers (2:30) and getting them at the correct height as you have done is critical to success for the rest of the build. There are many variations of levers and cams, but if the height of the hinged caster supports is off, success will be impossible. Great job, thank you for sharing a very comprehensive process.
I'm new to your channel, long-time old timer, and when I saw you working in sandles with heavy stuff, I didn't have hope for your work, but you impressed me. Good job. I will check out your other videos.
Great video Brad, I specially saved it for today so I have a treat for my birthday. Love the design, will try it out as soon as I get my new workbenches. Love to the family, Mitzi from South Africa
Nicely explained process. 8 years ago ColoradoDemings made the same setup for a table saw. You gave a better explanation in some areas. We all learn from each other.
One of the engineers at work built a mini hovercraft under his equipment. He flipped a switch and suddenly he was gliding machines around his shop with no effort. Completely overkill and amazing
@@fr3dfixit945 quothe the shop-supe "if you got time for standing you got time for sweeping" and/or "if you don't have anything to do, you should be sweeping". Also, "its cheaper to buy a new part than it is to buy you a new eyeball" when he'd see someone working without their safety glasses on, he'd walk by and either flick the machine off, or unplug your power tool 😆 I mean, its a fair point.... More on topic, get some tubing and make a centralized vacuum system with ports here and there so all you have to do is slide into a self sealing coupler the hose where you need some suck, then put some tube on a old sweeping waste bin scoop and handel, BAM! a dust pan waste bin that really sucks and saves the back! Just flick the debris at the bin and away it goes! 😉🤣
I built very similar contraptions for a couple mobile tool bases in my shop. I used 1" oak dowels instead of the threaded rod, helps a bit with deflection. Still needed support blocks mid span though. Also came to find out the lever was the weak spot in my applications. Ended up re-cutting the levers out of 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood glued together, then gluing and screwing it onto my 1" dowel. That 3/4 pine board lever won't hold up long when all the torque is bearing on the little surfaces around the nut. Especially if employed on heavier tool bases. Good job though, enjoyed your take, as there are some differences to my own.
Sooo I'm sittin' here late one night cruising thru YT when I see a couple of videos showing mobile tool bases, and think to myself that I need to make a better base for my 14" bandsaw and I'm about to type in a search for "mobile base for 14" bandsaw" - when my eyes move down the page and... 😀 Thanks for the great video! I'll be making this real soon, now that I know just what to do because we have the exact same saw (well, minus the cool yellow paint job, maybe 😉),
This is so simple, yet so smart. Well done and I think that i will be using this idea on a few of my tools! Thanks for posting yet another great video!
Good concept. I personally feel that you may need more positive means to anchor the rotational position of the cams and the handle, and would caution that if one of the cams came loose, it would allow the bandsaw to tip to one side, which might cause a tip- over due to the tall & narrow shape of the tool. Personally, I would weld plates to a steel tube, and screw the cams to the steel plates, and there's no way THAT is coming loose... ...but not everybody has a welder, so another approach without this would be to drill two holes through them rather than one, use a timber spacer, and lock everything together with glue and two threaded rods.
To clarify the reasons for my concern, 1) the friction on the surface of the cam acts at a much bigger radius than the friction from the clamping nuts on the threaded rod, so the design is operating at a mechanical disadvantage to begin with. 2) the wood cams will expand and contract with changes in humidity, which will tend to loosen the grip of the clamping nuts.
"...offset for clearance.." my first thought was, nope. Then the caption popped up. I have the same bandsaw, it is a beast. However, for the life of me, and despite replacing several parts it always drifts. Yes, I have watched several videos on how to tune and I think that I will just call her "Christine" ( shout out to Diesel Creek). My main idea for the bandsaw was for resawing and that is not happening with this beast.
Nice job. It looked like your front cam wheel spun on the shaft when you did the handle test. You might consider using a coupling nut on the shaft and making a similar hex hole on the cams. A little wax on the wheel base to cam wear surfaces wouldn't hurt.
Very good, I never thought of making cams by simply offsetting the hole, I would have been cutting out egg shaped bits of wood. The only thing I would do differently because I have a welder, is I would weld the 2 middle nuts to the stud and then cut out a hex in the cams before holding them in place with locknuts on the opposing side. Also I would weld the handle on the end just to make sure nothing moves over time. I think this will solve problem I've had with my table saw for years.
How's this holding up? I would have been a little concerned about the threaded rod filing a slot in the sheet metal at the sides. I like how compact this solution is, and with the motor mounted as low as it is I think even the narrow wheel spacing shouldn't be an issue. Cool project!
I was wondering how far I would have to scroll to see this comment. That was my primary concern also. I suspect things will be fine as long as it's not getting moved several times a day. It would be interesting to take one set of the outside nuts off and see if the hole has elongated at all.
great project to be sure! 2 ideas came to mind as I watched. First, I'd be worried that over time the cams could slip on the threaded rod. Maybe modify the cams so that the hex nut sits captive in the face of the cam -- that would really strengthen the mechanical link between the cam and the rod. Second, for me ideally the mechanism would be foot-actuated rather than the handle. I know it sounds lazy but I don't like having to bend down for this sort of thing and would love to see a foot actuated version of this. Still a great project!
I was gifted an old Ryobi BT3000 table saw, it has similar casters to your bandsaw stand. Having to heave up that contractor saw and roll it like a wheelbarrow is no bueno.
How has that held up over the last 9 months? Maybe get some steel pipe with ID the same size as the OD of your cam wheels. This might help the wheels not crack. May need to run a screw through the outside into the threaded rod to help keep them from turning as well. Just some thoughts. I love this design and will be using it on my upcoming all in one mobile work bench. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for thinking up a solution that has bugged me for years. Actually I should have thought of it, because a co-inventor in our inventor club, makes these feet that raise and lower cabinets in the kitchen. They actually stay in the kitchen cabinet. Once set, then forget.
Nice idea, but it looks to me that, regardless how tight you made the locking nuts squeezing the cams, over-time, the cams will slip on the threaded rod.
They didn't at first but have since. I knew that going in but didn't feel like filming it. I have since broken 2 1/8" drill bits inside the threaded rod as my key lol
Looks great ! but too much work. I used a square board with locking casters. Much easier and has been working fine in my shop for 20 years. Top tip: moving dollies and wheels are cheap at home depot. using a coupon you could probably get so on wheels for less than $20!
At the start of the video you mentioned a solution with a lever arm and a flap that could not be used because the motor support beam was in the way. What I was trying to ask is why could you not just put the lever arm parallel to the motor support beam?
Genuine question, not looking for hate, but why do Americans and Canadians pronounce the word lever as if it were spelled Levva? In my book, the single 'v' indicates that it should be pronounced lee-ver, and not lev-err. Anyway, interesting video, thank you for sharing.
Your cam system will eventually slip on the rod. Why reinvent something that already exist's... Carl Holmgren's retractable casters design is one of the best design for having mobile tool base. Here's the video he made 9 years ago ruclips.net/video/7TTnb3TyH5Y/видео.htmlsi=iWAuTODpYrnRS_Si
@@DIYBuilds Friend, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, facts don't care about our feelings. So using your analogy, you had Windows 10 and uploaded an older version.... the leaver mechanism with hinges is a more robust durable system it's why you see most use this design with a tweak here and there but essentially the same. Here's another that did the same leaver/hinge design adding there own twist to it. ruclips.net/video/ei3ADzfbxBE/видео.htmlsi=uFFtrkgnxgkUG4JU
Nice idea and practical. As an aside, I really like the practical safety gear you wear in your shop. Short sleeves, and shorts but those open toed sandals are really the icing on the ensemble. One thing that always bothers me about some RUclips providers is the fact that they fail to comprehend that many of their viewers are inexperienced and take what they see as "good practice" when working on projects. You are acting as an instructor so would it not behoove you to teach the proper practices instead of sloppy half assed ones that tend to leave your students open to mishap? Failure to do so marks you as less than an accomplished amateur. No subscription for you.
I keep an archive of good ideas that can help me out with future projects, This will definitely be added. Thank you.
Sandals, socks and good ideas - that a mixture 👍
2:13 ah, the sign of a Canadian DIYer! Princess Auto... ;)
I'm still here my friend. It's good to see you running again!
Made it for my son's home made dinausaurus observation tower (Montessori), best idea ever! No need to break my back again to move it all over the kitchen 😍
Wow, absolutely cool; great design and build!
Well done, Sir!
First thing I did when I got a bandsaw was to make a wheeled base for it. Locking wheels work a treat. Love it 👍
I made a base using a lever to lift the hinged plates, it's a bit of a pain. Your solution is sweet. I may have to retro fit mine. Thanks...subscribed
Cam'on. Awesome one, mate. Solved the problem elegantly 👍
That's just brilliant, dude! Fantastic work! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The step of using the spacers (2:30) and getting them at the correct height as you have done is critical to success for the rest of the build. There are many variations of levers and cams, but if the height of the hinged caster supports is off, success will be impossible. Great job, thank you for sharing a very comprehensive process.
Thanks for the great solution for shop mobile tool base. Very easy to follow!!!
I'm new to your channel, long-time old timer, and when I saw you working in sandles with heavy stuff, I didn't have hope for your work, but you impressed me. Good job. I will check out your other videos.
Great video Brad, I specially saved it for today so I have a treat for my birthday. Love the design, will try it out as soon as I get my new workbenches. Love to the family, Mitzi from South Africa
Nicely explained process. 8 years ago
ColoradoDemings
made the same setup for a table saw. You gave a better explanation in some areas. We all learn from each other.
One of the engineers at work built a mini hovercraft under his equipment. He flipped a switch and suddenly he was gliding machines around his shop with no effort. Completely overkill and amazing
I want one! Not only a superb re-invention of the wheel, it's also an electric broom. My shop needs that even more than equipment mobility...
@@fr3dfixit945 quothe the shop-supe "if you got time for standing you got time for sweeping" and/or "if you don't have anything to do, you should be sweeping". Also, "its cheaper to buy a new part than it is to buy you a new eyeball" when he'd see someone working without their safety glasses on, he'd walk by and either flick the machine off, or unplug your power tool 😆 I mean, its a fair point....
More on topic, get some tubing and make a centralized vacuum system with ports here and there so all you have to do is slide into a self sealing coupler the hose where you need some suck, then put some tube on a old sweeping waste bin scoop and handel, BAM! a dust pan waste bin that really sucks and saves the back! Just flick the debris at the bin and away it goes! 😉🤣
Please attach link and plans😂
@@m4anow just go on instructables and beg someone to build one for you like everyone else....
@@zombieregimethiiiiis
Well Done!!!! Great Idea!!!! Thanks For Sharing!!!!!🤔👍😎😀
I built very similar contraptions for a couple mobile tool bases in my shop. I used 1" oak dowels instead of the threaded rod, helps a bit with deflection. Still needed support blocks mid span though. Also came to find out the lever was the weak spot in my applications. Ended up re-cutting the levers out of 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood glued together, then gluing and screwing it onto my 1" dowel. That 3/4 pine board lever won't hold up long when all the torque is bearing on the little surfaces around the nut. Especially if employed on heavier tool bases. Good job though, enjoyed your take, as there are some differences to my own.
Good design!! Im going to use it on my Bandsaw!! Thanks!!
Sooo I'm sittin' here late one night cruising thru YT when I see a couple of videos showing mobile tool bases, and think to myself that I need to make a better base for my 14" bandsaw and I'm about to type in a search for "mobile base for 14" bandsaw" - when my eyes move down the page and...
😀 Thanks for the great video! I'll be making this real soon, now that I know just what to do because we have the exact same saw (well, minus the cool yellow paint job, maybe 😉),
Excellent idea and execution! Well done! 👍👍
This is so simple, yet so smart. Well done and I think that i will be using this idea on a few of my tools! Thanks for posting yet another great video!
Awesome.
This is exactly what I need.
Thanks for sharing.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Very cool man! Nicely done!
1:10 I had to go back! Wondered if you were mounting Sarcasters to a board! "Sarcasters" should be a thing!
Good concept. I personally feel that you may need more positive means to anchor the rotational position of the cams and the handle, and would caution that if one of the cams came loose, it would allow the bandsaw to tip to one side, which might cause a tip- over due to the tall & narrow shape of the tool.
Personally, I would weld plates to a steel tube, and screw the cams to the steel plates, and there's no way THAT is coming loose... ...but not everybody has a welder, so another approach without this would be to drill two holes through them rather than one, use a timber spacer, and lock everything together with glue and two threaded rods.
To clarify the reasons for my concern,
1) the friction on the surface of the cam acts at a much bigger radius than the friction from the clamping nuts on the threaded rod, so the design is operating at a mechanical disadvantage to begin with.
2) the wood cams will expand and contract with changes in humidity, which will tend to loosen the grip of the clamping nuts.
Great innovation~! Should work like a champ.
"...offset for clearance.." my first thought was, nope. Then the caption popped up. I have the same bandsaw, it is a beast. However, for the life of me, and despite replacing several parts it always drifts. Yes, I have watched several videos on how to tune and I think that I will just call her "Christine" ( shout out to Diesel Creek). My main idea for the bandsaw was for resawing and that is not happening with this beast.
Love the cam mechanism!
Clever! And seems to work very well.
Nice job. It looked like your front cam wheel spun on the shaft when you did the handle test.
You might consider using a coupling nut on the shaft and making a similar hex hole on the cams.
A little wax on the wheel base to cam wear surfaces wouldn't hurt.
Very good, I never thought of making cams by simply offsetting the hole, I would have been cutting out egg shaped bits of wood. The only thing I would do differently because I have a welder, is I would weld the 2 middle nuts to the stud and then cut out a hex in the cams before holding them in place with locknuts on the opposing side. Also I would weld the handle on the end just to make sure nothing moves over time. I think this will solve problem I've had with my table saw for years.
Nice job big boy!! Love your channel.
If you also made a block and tackle to lay the heavy piece down and lift it back upright, it would be even more amazing 😎
Nice job! Cool video and sandals 😄
How's this holding up? I would have been a little concerned about the threaded rod filing a slot in the sheet metal at the sides. I like how compact this solution is, and with the motor mounted as low as it is I think even the narrow wheel spacing shouldn't be an issue.
Cool project!
Works great. Broke a drill bit off inside trying to add a much needed pin so that works ;)
I was wondering how far I would have to scroll to see this comment. That was my primary concern also. I suspect things will be fine as long as it's not getting moved several times a day. It would be interesting to take one set of the outside nuts off and see if the hole has elongated at all.
great project to be sure! 2 ideas came to mind as I watched. First, I'd be worried that over time the cams could slip on the threaded rod. Maybe modify the cams so that the hex nut sits captive in the face of the cam -- that would really strengthen the mechanical link between the cam and the rod. Second, for me ideally the mechanism would be foot-actuated rather than the handle. I know it sounds lazy but I don't like having to bend down for this sort of thing and would love to see a foot actuated version of this. Still a great project!
Great design and build!
Very clever, great job! 👍
Miss your project vids, Brad. Glad to see this one.
Got your Halloween/Hammerfall tickets yet?
Brilliant!
Great job!
Cool! Thanks.
Can you do the original lever idea in another video? I don’t have a motor in the way.
I was gifted an old Ryobi BT3000 table saw, it has similar casters to your bandsaw stand. Having to heave up that contractor saw and roll it like a wheelbarrow is no bueno.
How has that held up over the last 9 months? Maybe get some steel pipe with ID the same size as the OD of your cam wheels. This might help the wheels not crack. May need to run a screw through the outside into the threaded rod to help keep them from turning as well. Just some thoughts. I love this design and will be using it on my upcoming all in one mobile work bench. Thank you for sharing.
It's been fine but I definitely needed to pin the rod to the cam.
Thanks for thinking up a solution that has bugged me for years. Actually I should have thought of it, because a co-inventor in our inventor club, makes these feet that raise and lower cabinets in the kitchen. They actually stay in the kitchen cabinet. Once set, then forget.
Genius for sure.
Thanks
Brilliant!... 🙌✨
Small hint a little wax on the cams mating surface will let them glide easier, but I’m sure you already know that. lol
Sweet
Start by turning the bandsaw 90 degrees clockwise. Then most of your cuts can be done without moving it.
🎉 great job! Ty #how2wrench
Excelente!!! idéia!!!
Genius
Exelent
Cool, clever design. Totally inappropriate for my bandsaw but clever nonetheless!
Nice idea, but it looks to me that, regardless how tight you made the locking nuts squeezing the cams, over-time, the cams will slip on the threaded rod.
Yes I went back and pinned it
You'll want to key those cams to the drive shaft; they **will** slip over time.
They didn't at first but have since. I knew that going in but didn't feel like filming it. I have since broken 2 1/8" drill bits inside the threaded rod as my key lol
I have my band saw rotated 90 degrees. So I don’t have to move it.
The explosion at the beginning was fake.🙁
No it was real. I edited it myself :o
@@DIYBuilds no it wasn't, I'm reporting you for misinformation.
😮
After careful analysis, I can confirm that it was indeed a real explosion.
No way!!!
Looks great ! but too much work. I used a square board with locking casters. Much easier and has been working fine in my shop for 20 years. Top tip: moving dollies and wheels are cheap at home depot. using a coupon you could probably get so on wheels for less than $20!
Why did you not just do the lever thing turned 90 degrees?
No idea what that means
At the start of the video you mentioned a solution with a lever arm and a flap that could not be used because the motor support beam was in the way. What I was trying to ask is why could you not just put the lever arm parallel to the motor support beam?
Why not just turn the bandsaw 90 degrees?
Because you would still have to tip it to move it.
Nice! Now...do me a favour? Vacuum out the bottom of your band saw! Jeez!
Genuine question, not looking for hate, but why do Americans and Canadians pronounce the word lever as if it were spelled Levva?
In my book, the single 'v' indicates that it should be pronounced lee-ver, and not lev-err.
Anyway, interesting video, thank you for sharing.
The word would have to spelled like the word Leave with an r on the end to make that sound.
The problem with all these ideas if I'm now full of idea and to tired to do anything..
Zzzzzz Zzzzzz
Your cam system will eventually slip on the rod. Why reinvent something that already exist's... Carl Holmgren's retractable casters design is one of the best design for having mobile tool base. Here's the video he made 9 years ago ruclips.net/video/7TTnb3TyH5Y/видео.htmlsi=iWAuTODpYrnRS_Si
Well I didn't see that video before and mine is not exactly the same. That's like saying why use windows 10 when windows 3.1 exists.
@@DIYBuilds Friend, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, facts don't care about our feelings. So using your analogy, you had Windows 10 and uploaded an older version.... the leaver mechanism with hinges is a more robust durable system it's why you see most use this design with a tweak here and there but essentially the same. Here's another that did the same leaver/hinge design adding there own twist to it. ruclips.net/video/ei3ADzfbxBE/видео.htmlsi=uFFtrkgnxgkUG4JU
Why not both?
Nice idea and practical.
As an aside, I really like the practical safety gear you wear in your shop. Short sleeves, and shorts but those open toed sandals are really the icing on the ensemble.
One thing that always bothers me about some RUclips providers is the fact that they fail to comprehend that many of their viewers are inexperienced and take what they see as "good practice" when working on projects. You are acting as an instructor so would it not behoove you to teach the proper practices instead of sloppy half assed ones that tend to leave your students open to mishap? Failure to do so marks you as less than an accomplished amateur.
No subscription for you.
Do what makes you comfortable. I'm comfortable in socks and sandals, so that's what I do. I don't owe anyone anything.
You should check out Carl Holmgren’s video for a bunch of power tool caster ideas:
ruclips.net/video/7TTnb3TyH5Y/видео.html
Dumb. The saw already has wheels on it.
Aww someone doesn't understand.
I cringe every time I see someone working in a shop environment without at minimum shoes.
Welcome to the all socks and sandals channel.
@@DIYBuilds 🤣👍
Great idea👍👍👍👍👍👍
Genius