84. Help! Your advice is needed.
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- Опубликовано: 17 июн 2023
- I'm looking for suggestions and help with reworking the legs for my campervan bed and this video explains the issue.
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1:37 - "It has been thoroughly tested."
You dog, you! 😉
Hehehehehe 😉😉
@@Vandemonium We all thought it.
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@@Vandemonium 🤣🤣
When the van is-a-rockin', don't come-a-knockin'
This conundrum will take much beer in order to think it through. It is like trying to figure out Archimedes' Screw, oh these a puzzlements.
Instead of legs attached to the “lid” who about “false doors on the front that fold out and the “lid” sits in them , when not in use the door close against the base
Excellent alternative.
Get rid of the legs, cantilever it with heavy duty roller runners?
Either make one a locking runner, so you can lock in place or add an electrically operated linear actuator to make it glide out at the press of a button (a bit OTT perhaps!).
A foreigner thanks you for this exceptionally detailed insight into an Englishman's temperament.
Why bothe with the legs? Make both parts more stiff, add guides to the static part ( top and bottom )so the sliding part can only slide, add some industrial cabinet rail (with lock function ) to the sliding part and static. in my head this works.
Simple hinge with a locking arm will be job done. Simplest solution.
Don’t use legs at all fit crossbeams under the bed sliders just to the ones that move out, you will need to use a bit of a spacer but it will work this will act as a cantilever support and it wouldn’t pivot up then 👍
Legs as per a gate legged table fixed to the base unit that fold in and out, my pleasure 😊
The ramblings of a wild Englishman.....70% why um here......keep up the splendid work good sir!
To the rear of the loo, you have a vertical panel, you also have a vertical panel at the back of the bed, and presumably at the front of the bed. You could install parallel panels next to each of those that have the ability slide out to act as supports for your bed/bench. This would allow you to slide each panel out as far as you wanted, and independently of each other.
We love your channels, you got us through Covid 😁 And with due perseverance you will get through this dilemma. We wish you all the best.
Cut outs in front panel, to allow the folded legs to stay in the folded position when the seat is down.
Gate leg? Like on a gate-leg table. So the hinge is actually on the corners at the front of the bed area (so not attached to the lid area at all).
Yes. I think it’s the simplest modification to existing arrangement.
If you want them more versatile, hinged them in the mid point like bi-fold doors so the top can be pulled out halfway to sit on while using the kitchen countertop as described, without having to step over when moving along the van.
That's what I did on my first mh conversion.
I think this is the solution. When I googled 'gate leg table' I got the solution right away. This is solid, versatile and solves all problems.
The legs on a folding card table are designed to easily drop down when needed and to neatly and securely tuck themselves away when not needed. You should be able to acquire the hinges and folding cross brace assemblies by visiting a second hand or re-use centre. Best case, problem solved - worst case will be you've spent a few dollars trying to recycle a bit of hardware.
Simple! Attach what would appear to be two doors (or simple frames) to the front of the seat unit that you open out to the desired supporting length. As you face the unit, the left 'door' would be hinged on the left side and would open right to left and the 'door' on the right side would be attached on the right and open left to right. These just need to be frames or pieces of plywood with perhaps large holes cut in them to keep the weight down. Normally, they would sit in their 'closed' position against the front of the seat base. They only need to be as wide as the gap is and affixed so that they support the slide out bed slats in two locations. Slightly opened for the extended seat and fully open for the full-sized bed. You just need to find a simple stopper system although I suspect that the weight of the slats, cushions and yourself on top will keep it rigid enough.
Wow OK I just commented basically this same concept. This is a great idea. I think it is similar to supports for a drop leaf table, so that's how I described it in my comment. But "doors" is the same idea, and an easier way to understand it I think. With my concept, the supports would not necessarily need to reach the van floor to function, but could be made that way for even more support.
I started to write up my answer then noticed Andrew beat me to it by an hour.
You beat me to it, I was going to suggest something similar. Something like a Gateleg table.
These doors wouldn't need to cross the gap, perhaps half way would suffice. And you only need 3 if the middle one holds up both sides. And if you go the 3 route, the 2 outside ones are full length, and the middle one sitting length.
90° snap folding bracket & hinges
A few ideas (I did not read previous comments so excuse me if I repeat some of them):
1. have a support that ties the slats of the moving part at the backside and bottom. That will allow the slightly out position without any support required.
2. Instead of a leg, have just a ledge or a French cleat on the kitchen itself supporting the height when fully extended position while also keeping it fully extended.
3. If you plan on using the piano hinge as you suggested, add some magnets that will keep it closed when not needed, and you will actively pull it apart when extending the bed. Less rattle, less chance of it hitting the edge of the loo or your head.
4. Consider using triangular support from the base of the bed on vertical hinges. They can be fully deployed or only part-way, and if the sliding part has a pin at the bottom it can deploy them automatically.
5. My least favorite, but putting it out there, you can have an additional front to the base, again can use magnets to affix in the stowed position, can be part-way or fully deployed, can auto-deploy if the slider has a pin at the bottom.
Good luck!
Think Cupboard Doors . Two hinged Frames or Panels on the front face of your seat ,that swing out to form a support .
Scrap the legs and put heavy duty drawer runners on the frame.
I would use the two outside seat slats as hinged legs. They will fold away when bench is in. and can be folded down for use.
I enjoyed your invisible piano playing on the kitchen unit! Whatever you do I’m sure it will be great. Good luck!
Played with a similar idea on my boat a few years ago. Best solution i found was having a leg on each corner that folds up and is held on magnets. It does make the top a bit thicker but not by a huge amount. More than happy to send you over some drawings if you would like.
When you extend the bed, support each corner with springs hanging from the ceiling
Folding shelf brackets and fix legs to them. They lock in position and can take some force/weight
Hi David. Use hinges that lock at 90 degrees, that will avoid them collapsing or being accidentally knocked. The width of your bed will have to be more than the height in order to work. You can get a pair for about $20 which I think may even lock at 0, 90 & 180 degrees which might assist when lifting open also.
If you google single cranked hinge or double cranked hinge there are things that might work although may be over complicating the issue.
How about a blend of your ideas: have a fixed leg at the end of your bed, where it is not in the way when you flip the deb up. And have a foldable leg, resting along the front, where the loo is. Because there is only one leg that folds, there is enough space for it.
Hinge in the other direction (legs go up if you open the space/toilet). Magnets in the wall to keep everything comfortably open, and maybe even some magnets in the „used as bed“ position, to give it some mire sturdiness. Cost is 1-2 hinges + some neodymium magnets 😉👍
The legs don’t need to be at the edge. Set them a few inches in from the edge. They also don’t need to be in line with each other, so if you go with legs that fold toward the front and back of the van, they can be offset from each other so not interfering.
I think you found the best solution already. Practical, doable and quiet easy to use.
Okay. You want to preserve the convenience of your lift up bin lids, but support them as a bed when they are pulled out. Simply add a wide U frame on the sides and in front (with permanent legs) that slides out independently in front of the lids. The current lids are not attached to that frame, but just lie on it when extended however far. If you are worried about the front edge of the lids slipping off the frame when extended, just add a little velcro or a pin through a hole to hold it. You will lose an inch or so of leg room width when it is a couch, but that's small change. When making the bed, you slide the front frame forward, then slide out the lids to rest on it. When you push it back, the frame slides back to contact the lids in front, but does not interfere with lifting them up (except for a little velcro). You can add however many legs you want, but the front frame is only attached to (rests on) the seat frame at either end
You could always put a side hinge on the near leg that allows you to push it toward the wall when you need to do your business.
Hi David. Please excuse my commenting without first reading all 128 comments so far. Haha. Firstly, hinge the leg, it will be fine. Second and more important: If you move the strip of brown ply (or add another one) to UNDERNEATH the seat slats, fixed to the same slats, but underneath, youll be able to pull the seat out 6 inches without the need for a leg at all. It also wont be a loose entity anymore.
Dont attach the legs to the lid at all. Attach them to the base so they pull out from the base. You can have them slide in and out by having a bit sticking up into the lid so if you slide out the top it pulls out the legs.
This.👍
I’ve got your slide out design with legs in the front but it’s a bit awkward when you lift it and you wouldnt be able to use your toilet. One of my earlier designs worked well.
So you get 2 pieces of ply the same height as a leg would need to be. If it’s 12 mm ply, cut a 15mm slot halfway through each piece (eg, if the height of the piece was 14 inches, then cut a 7 inch length slot (15mm wide) so they slot together and make a cross…. Stand it on the floor and you have yourself a leg.
You’d need 1 for each end, but they’re quite simple to use, can be stowed away where they’d not take up too much room, and don’t hinder any of your current design. They don’t have to be massive, just big enough to be stable.
Make them 6 inches and they’d tuck under the edge nicely if you wish to pull the seat out 6 inches.
Triangles is a solution ?
@@sianwarwick633 triangles ? Eh
I can't make an excellent suggestion because i can guarantee David will end up with a solution that wasn't inspired by the comments in the first place. Followed by a video explaining why all the suggestions were unsuitable. This isn't my first rodeo, and I, for one, eagerly anticipate that video and will watch it with a sense that this must be the dullest topic for a video whilst thoroughly enjoying it 😆
Hahahahahahahahaha as if I'd ever do something like that 🤣🤣🤣
Try using folding hinges on the side of the legs that lock into place, rather than spring loaded rod hinges. That should keep it out of the way when open and provide more stability when in use.
David, as soon as I saw this I realised you were approaching the problem from the wrong angle. As others have already said, use legs hinged to the base, not the top. Just like a gate leg table. You ought to be able to swing the legs, i'd make two, out to support the top no matter how far out you pull the top.
Alternatively, buy a pair of drop down hinges and fix to the base. Temu do decent ones very cheaply, I've just bought two pairs.
I like Robin's magnet solution below! Good luck, David!
I think you answered your own question David. As I was thinking hinged...you suggested it. As soon as I was thinking lock/latch...you suggested that too. That's what I would do.
I noticed that the slide out part has no brace underneath at the back to stop it from lifting off/out, with some spacers (so it can slide freely) and a brace underneath at the back, you could slide the seat out 6" without the leg attached and the hinged section and underneath brace would prevent it from lifting...then no legs needed for a 6" pull out; most weight would be from your torso which is way behind that 6".
Now! the question is, with the brace on the underside rear, would the bed still pull out fully.
Perhaps you would need to extend the width of the top two frames with longer sections, making them an inch or two wider...this way you'll only need to attach the legs when making the full size bed up.
Piano hinges........that's it.....job done
The most difficult problems are often solved by the most simple solutions. Put the legs on TOP of the sliding part of the bed so they fold flat when not in use. To extend the bed, just flip it over like a RIB bed, drop the hinged legs and adjust to desired width by sliding into place.
why can't you do like folding table legs. In the US we have card tables and the legs fold up. You have to push the button for the hung to fold.
you must be joking , there are no such thing as folding tables not even in the USA . its preposterous
Riding the Road has got it! My first thought! Attach the table legs at the outer corners. Hinge them so they fold inward across the front edge of the frame. Some kind of metal clasp will hold the legs in the closed position. The legs will have to be cut long enough to keep the frame level when they are dropped down which may necessitate them overlapping when stowed. In that case trimming the legs to a taper may be required.
change the slide outs to a tongue-n-groove. you'll be able to lift as a single unit and be able to eliminate the legs all together
You’re overthinking this. Add hinges to the existing legs. A small bit of sandpaper glued to the bin frame (facing up) would provide friction against the bottom of the sliding parts-reducing movement (80 grit or rougher). They make hinges with removable pins-so you could remove the legs if needed.
Seeing as the existence of the leg is a problem, why not get rid of it altogether? Replace the bed base slats with extruded aluminium. You can still work it with regular woodworking tools, it’s lighter and stronger.
Put a single leg either end of the pullout section that pivots on the end. When you slide the section in pivot the leg fully over and it stores flat on the top.
Just try the hinge and see how it works. It's about 15 minutes of work.
cut out slots in the front face of the bed. Create two simple L shaped pieces of wood as legs with the fronts slightly lipped. That way you can lift the top drawers without fouling the legs as they will remain in the base but as they are lipped slightly, when you pull the bed out to any length the legs slide out with it. when you push it back just push the bed in via the legs.
I’m sure a man who is able to keep two digestive biscuits in situ on a plate behind a luggage net,will find a suitable solution.
I thought they were coasters or something to put hot pans on.
We are thinking foldable legs utilizing hinges that lock, similar to those used on fold-down desks or card tables. Hope that helps.
What I thought too.
Maybe get some really strong drawer slides that can accept the necessary loads.
I think the following may work. Legs at either end that fold independently to the center the have and integral locking brace (like a collapsible table leg).
Look for an old folding card table. See if you can use the hardware and legs for your project. Any thrift store should carry them.
I have absolutely no idea but with the interested in seeing what your final solution will be enjoyed the video
Your problem is one to consider. As I’m not someone who does DYI your current solution seems the best.
Quite the conundrum you're in. How about a pair of heavy duty roller rails (I'm not sure what their exact name is) that you would have in a drawer system? They do make them sturdy enough to hold your weight and then some. You'll have no need for support legs that fold, lock,and extend and it would be a project that you certainly have the capability to accomplish. I've seen it done and there are plenty of videos of tutorials on the subject.
Hard to tell but. Maybe hinge some swing out arms on the front cover of storage box that the toilet sits in. Just use 6x2 for the swing out arms or whatever thickness you see fit. Cheers and OUT.
Hi David, I can see this is causing a great deal of frustration for you. To keep things as simple as possible, I suggest just attaching the existing legs to the slats via a piano hinge. This project will likely require a bit of trial and error to arrive at the best overall compromise. Fortunately, your viewers suggested many good ideas to try, leaving you with the task of sorting which ones you consider most practical for your application. I hope you find something that ticks all the boxes. Cheerio!
One leg on a hinge on the front side which holds up with a magnet. And on the rear end have a batton on that rear board that it can slide on.
Maybe have legs that are on a runner assembly that pull forward and push back into the unit, a sort of inverted and rotated 180 degrees 'L' shape. These could be attached to the bed pull out, so that when the bed is pulled out they come with it, by a bolt or clip arrangement so that when you want to lift the lid, you slide the bolt/clip - whatever - which detaches the bed from the legs when lifting up the bed. When you are finished, dropping the bed back down the bolts/clips re-engage, ready for when you want to use the bed. Hope that is clear.
Just had another thought. Make the leg frame an oblong with holes in the top that can take dowels. Put dowels in the bed base - similar to what you have already. Have magnets that will hold the leg frame to the bed frame - to stop it falling forward when you lift the bed base. When you need the bed out, pull the leg frame off the bed frame and the dowels will make the bed base go with it.When lifting the bed base, it will leave the legs behind held by the magnets. Hope these help.
With total respect meant, this is not a camper that is designed for a partner and multiple additional occupants (children, dogs, parrots etc etc -make your selection..). I would leave the bed 'base' as is and simply make the bed frame permanently 6 inches wider. It is not like you are going to be running up the walking space in a hurry is it?? However if you want to make it a 'two person' sleeping space, I think you need to have fixed 'bearing points' on the cupboards and other vertical spaces to support the bed frame. In short I would skip the 'legs idea' entirely.
piano hinge on the 2 supports of the leg, would allow you to fold it back and store it inside of the storage against the underside of the lid
Two buttresses, hinged to the front face, that swing out like cabinet doors, and the cover rests on top of them. I've seen dining table tops that use this technique to support extensions.
exactly my idea
90 degree self locking hinges.
Yes 👍🏽
Ditto
Yes, sometimes listed as “self-locking folding table-leg hinges/brackets”
Yes ! The flip up table on our old Elddis Firestorm had 90 degree sprung hinges which worked well. If you can still buy them they would be worth trying. Good luck.
The hinge solution is the easiest and best for your situation.
I'm so glad it's not just me that has sutch dilemmas.
Difficult without being able to see the exact fittings at each end but can you have a runner at each end for it to slide on and a piece across the front for strength.
Hope you got what you needed
Hi David, hinges on the existing leg arrangement will work just fine. Dont overthink it, it just gets complicated.
Having given this problem almost two seconds of in depth consideration I wonder if you might consider a hammock?
You could use bolt through the sides fixings or hooks, job done.
You don't have to have a bunk as such and the part that was the bunk could be enlarged or raised for more storage space perhaps.
I suppose you might even rig up a pulley system so the hammock would contain your mattress, sheet and duvet and be raise to the roof or pushed to the sude.
Or treat yourself to a decent sleeping bag instead.
Might work for you, might not.
I suppose too you could move the hammock outside ... once you have designed a support for the end of the hammock.
Ideal for those sunny days ... and end up being the envy of your neighbours.
The excellent thing about converting a van yourself is that the conversion phase need never stop ... and you can refine your engineering as you wish and new (and better?) ideas occur to yourself.
I do a bunch of RV camping, not sure if it is true for vans to, but things are always a compromise. You have to weigh your ability to do something against how hard that thing is.
It seems your issue is a search for convenience given your current solution is perfectly workable.
Might i suggest 2 things. First i recommend putting a brace under the sliding part so it cannot be taken off. That brace would act as as the support when you use the bench in the partial position. No legs needed then.
Next, put stationary braces in the fully out position. Then you don’t have to worry about legs at all.
I think you need to get on this. You might want to talk to Edd China, around Oxford, I think . That would be a colab made in heaven
Two or three legs folding fore and aft into a slot held in place by magnets under the front edge. Can be used at any bed width.
Hi, I think, in your case, the best course of action would be to test your ideas yourself, each time you describe a possible solution you don't seem 100% sure that they wouldn't work. I think basic prototyping with duct tape and wood bits could give you a really good idea as to which solutions are better than others. Even if you know the idea doesn't work before testing them, figuring out in more detail why exactly that is the case will basically point you in the direction where you need to look for a better alternative. In this case an iterative approach would be best.
Hinges and strong magnets, plus spacing the bed a little higher to fit everything when closed
It very simple. Leave it as it is. Attach magnets to the existing leg arrangement (on the sides) and to the underside of the bed. Then when the bed is in seat mode or folded away the legs thing is stowed under the bed and held with the magnets in storage. That way you don't have to store the legs elsewhere and the problem is solved. More simple the better. Furthermore if you don't like magnets a simple clip type arrangement may work also.
David, I agree with the plywood panel, same rough dimensions as the leg arrangement now, with a piano hinge screwed into the extendable slats. if spaced at a right angle the with forward face is abutting the front rail of the bed, it will be given support to stay vertical. it could be held up against the slats with a magnet when folded. just a thought. more stable than the rail design
There are drawer sliders with ballbearings and I've seen them up to 50 kg capacity. Get 2 of those and just slide the extension out.
Hinge the leg and install locking blocks that you can turn to lock the legs into place and another set hold them tight to the lid for storage.
Just a thought David, the slats that pull out, that long strip of thin ply or whatever it is that keeps the slats separated, what if you put a piece of flat 2-3mm thick aluminium strip the same length and width as the ply so when you pull the slats out the aluminium strip stops the extended slats from falling off and still keep the support frame you've already got as added security. I hope you get what I mean mate, and yes I do realise that some mods will be needed underneath to make room for the now new aluminium strip.That flat strip of ply on the under side of the bed when you lift it up, well put the aluminium strip as low as you can towards the inside, so basically when you open the bed base lid you see the ply strip at the top and the aluminium strip towards the bottom.
Hinged support boards instead of legs. These supports would function as they do on a drop leaf table. On a drop leaf table, you would pull up the drop leaf, and then swing out the support underneath. But in your case, they would just swing out at whatever angle you need. The boards are hinged vertically to the front side of the bed structure. They sit flush with the front when not in use. Swing out partially (45 degree angle) for using the bed as a seat with kitchen, or fully (90 degree angle) when using the bed in full size bed mode. Since the supports are not attached to the bed platform, there is nothing to bump into or get in the way when you lift up the bed platform.
double spring loaded hinges, with just enough force to push floorward when down, but folding inward when lid lifted. kitchen cabinet door hinges... they hold the door open when fully 90 degrees open, but self close when anything less. Or even just sprung self closing hinges (easier to fit) but not quite strong enough to overcome weight of leg when lid is lifted.
Screwfix or B&Q will have something in the kitchen cabinet section
The answer is obvious: You need fairy legs. These will extend to touch the floor when the shelf is down, but will shrivel back to their normal tiny size when the shelf is up. The problem, of course, is that fairies are quite hard to come by these days. You may want to try attracting some by leaving out something shiny. And then you'll have to figure out how to remove their legs; simply tearing them off won't work, and if you do manage it the Little People will make your life a living hell for your cruelty.
On second thought, maybe just go with locking brackets.
Hahaha I love smart-ass answers
How about metal pole legs attached with a hinge like the ones used on card tables. Legs support and fold up flat.
The hinge seems like the simple solution and if dowels have been stable enough then a hinge should be stable enough too. Use some hinges with stops or braces to stop the hinge at 90 degrees and prevent them from folding back when you don't intend them to. Good luck!
Piano hinges are great for this . They are very strong with many fixing holes.
Attach your legs to the front of the box with vertical hinges such that they fold flush when closed and swing out like a door when open. The front edge of the bed extension can rest anywhere along the top edge of the legs. Ideally above a vertical but anywhere if you build them strong. Even some 16-21mm thick ply would be plenty. You could even potentially use the front faces of the cupboard boxes as your legs if you redesign them thoughtfully. That would look neat.
You'd want little wheels or furniture slides on the bottoms of the legs to run smoothly on your floor. Perhaps some kind of elastic strap to keep the sliding top and the legs synchronised until you wish to lift the top for matters or personal relief. Shock cord is good. I prefer the kind with a single, thick rubber centre, rather than many thin strands. Shock cord buttons are very cheap, easy to install with one screw and secure the cord well enough. They are a bit like the thing you attach a guitar strap to.
I'd just put one on each leg, 30cm or so down from the top. That would leave plenty of finger room for undoing them to lift the top and also keep the hypotenuse angle small enough to keep the cord engaged in the button when sliding the top out. They'd need to be at a diagonal when fully shut to avoid over stretching as you expand the bed slide.
The cord loops can be affixed at the top. Drill two small holes, poke the cord through each one and fasten it on the inside of the box. A good knot may be enough. Don't make them too long. You'd want enough preload on each cord to keep the leg and top together; again keeping the cord seated in the groove on the button.
Prototype in small scale first. Tape, balsa wood and rubber bands. You can do it sat inside in comfort, rather than on hands and knees in the cramped van.
Simple solution is a pair of sturdy hinges on a more solid leg the same size as the one you currently use. Add a thicker foot to the each leg to make it more stable. Regards AJ
Hi David,use hinges turn the legs upside down and have two small holes in the floor to put the dowls in.
Have a look at the hinges on a folding card table. The legs fold out and lock.
When you mention two separate legs on the edges, my thought was to have the two legs held on by a bolt with two washers and they fold up towards each other, they would form a new edge for the cabinet.
Heavy duty drawer slides fixed to the existing bed slats. Your sliding section would stay the same and you would still be able to lift the bed top as you do now. The slides would reinforce the entire structure when pulled out to any length without any legs. Each slat edge would become the side of a drawer so to speak.
In my old vw I made the legs pull out on drawer runners from underneath the slats thus meaning it was fully adjustable and don’t get in the way when not required
It's the compromise you make when sleeping in a mobile toilet!
You need a larger van because your expectation standards are rising with experience.
Slats as legs is the most elegant solution if on strong hinges IF you use magnets or some other type of detent to hold them up but that will require more rework than putting your existing stand on a piano hinge with a magnet. You are right in considering that it might collapse when in the sitting mode if you pull yourself forward even a little bit, however. Any structure to resist that motion wold be annoying to set and unlock.This is true with Slats as legs as well. The best solution if you have the clearance at the ends would be to have a version of your current support at either end, placed 90 degrees and they folded up and under in storage mode. I think there is no place for that at the rear end however without a complete rework. Legs that swung down from either end can easily miss each other when folded up if offset BUT they would create a span that your seat may not support in sitting mode without reinforcement(?). I chuckled when you said that the bed had been completely tested for strength, whatever that means...
Instead of a "frame" hinging down, why not have two single legs hinged on the front of the movable frame, but folding back into the folding part parallel with the sides, so they lie flush to it when lifted but vertical to the floor when pulled out
David I am stuck but I suspect there are a lot of fine viewers that will be able to give you a wonderful direction to go in.
On the front of your bed unit fit two cupboard doors hinged at each end of the unit so that they open out towards the kitchen unit. So you pull the doors open just as far as you want the seat/bed tomojll out and the doors then act as supports. This is an easy job just to fit the doors/supports to ghe front of the unit with piano hinges. No other mods required.
Hi David, I have seen some camper vans wherethe pull out bed is fitted with a double front panel, such that the front panel is pulled out to extend and support the bed and the rear panel stays in place, hope that makes sense, it seems to be intrinsically stronger than having a couple of legs. Failing my inadequately articulated description I could do a sketch ☺
Also rack slides are very strong
Lovely van build. ❤❤❤❤