Just changed mine out. Thank you for the help!! Let me just say this: Make sure you UNPLUG your battery. I didnt and when I started my Jeep I got a check engine light and 3 codes: P2122 U0101 P2127 All pointed to the Transmission Control Module. I checked to see if I plugged them back correctly. I did but for whatever reason the codes were thrown. I unplugged the battery, let the system reboot and I was good to go. Thanks again!!
true, but we didn't really get to see the removal of the air duct... which is where I'm struggling. I did get it out, but can't get in back in.. In the 3 dimensional plane, its difficult to get it high enough, and rear-ward enough given no space to move/rotate/wiggle it. I'm having difficulty getting the 1st piece to slide over the edges to sit correctly. Any hints or advice would be great, since I'm not finding it "easily comes out" and easily goes back in place.
Thanks you for posting this ! I had to replace my actuator on my ‘13 JKU and I depended on your video for “how to”. The hardest part was removing the vent, I took it apart in two pieces like you recommended, which is a great help. I now have heat !! Great video!
Good video. If you have an automatic transmission, however, you'll have to remove the "Transmission Control Module" before getting to the duct removal and the actuator replacement. Its a bit scary but in reality, it can be removed by removing the 2 bolts that hold the bracket for it in. One on top and one to the right of it. Both are also 8mm bolts and you'll need the wrench extension that you needed earlier. Once removed everything else is in the video.
Two points, in the first You are spot-on, about the TCM I found it best to go ahead and unplug the control module after removing the two bolts because it kept getting in the way, particularly when getting to the blend door Phillips screws. Before that I used an 18MM socket and removed the driver's seat, only took about 5 min and provided way more room to get in and work. This was the second time I have replaced a Blend door actuator and removing the seat saved in about an hour's worth of "jockeying around".-- also made it much easier to get the floor duct out. I bought the part at Orlileys for $28, my jeep dealer wanted $250 for just the part!!!!!
Thank you Indecisive Garage. I just fixed my 2013 JKU Blend door actuator. The key for access is definitely to remove the tube. I took the actuator apart and had a broken tooth too. I rotated that gear 180 and put it all back together and it works fine. I believe the tooth that chipped off jammed the in between the to gears freezing the mechanism. Thank you your video saved me $$$$$$
I did the same and was able to get mine to work for the most part. Full heat still clicks, so I ordered a Doorman off of amazon to replace mine. About 10 dollar price difference between there and Oriley.
Thanks for the video! So helpful and easy to follow. Just replaced my actuator in my 2014 JKU with automatic transmission. A little extra work but worth it not to have to deal with the dealership or a garage. 🙌🏼
Thanks for posting the video, actuator went out on my 2012 JK, I got lucky putting it back in, the arm slipped right back in the slot without removing the duct. I put the arm back on in the same spot it came off, and just wiggled it back in, and it slipped right back in. I couldn't believe it went right back in, so i plugged the harness back in and tested it, and sure enough working perfect. Also, a difference from your 2015 is the 2012 has what i think is the ECM directly above the gas pedal. It has to be unbolted and put to the side, it has 2 8mm bolts holding it in, but was easy to get to with a long 1/4 inch extension.
Thank you!! Great video, excellent instruction/direction. I was a bit intimidated by the thought of replacing this part but your video gave me the confidence to go for it. I didn't read the other comment about eh "Transmission Control Module" so I was a little thrown off when I encountered it, but it was a simple removal. Thank you again for this great video!
Great video, thank you for taking the time to share it will us. Not sure who the 16 are that gave you thumbs down, the information was spot on. It made the replacement of the part so much easier, and it took no time at all. If you have a JK with the auto temperature selector, there is an enclosed fan and probe that reads cabin temperature. You'll need to unplug and remove that part in order to remove the floor vent. I found this out while trouble shooting and prior to watching your video, but if you unplug the throttle position sensor and turn the key on, it'll throw a code. But after 3 or 5 starts it clears.
This was an immensely helpful video. I actually just changed out the part today. Followed the steps in the video. It wasn’t too bad to get in there. You definitely have to take the air duct out to get to the acuator but the good thing is everything Kinda snaps in and out. I can’t figure out why my air conditioner still takes a few seconds to start up. The defroster still blinks but that hideous knocking noise is gone now. I tested the actuator and the arm moved fine like the way it was supposed to. Thank you for a great video.
Awesome video. Just changed out a failed actuator on my 2016 Wrangler. Mine wasn’t clicking, but just wouldn’t move at all. Replaced it with the Dorman part and now it works great. Thanks
I am wondering if mine is going out, no clicking but ac doesn't cool down right away. After a short while you can hear the air change sound and then the air cools down.
Thanks for mentioning the the screw hole and the tab. i fought with mine for a while and couldn't get it to fit. once i took the arm off and mounted it, the main part slid into the clip and onto the arm and screwed it in.
I'm sure its been said but this video is a godsend for replacement of this actuator you made a great video thanks it helped me change mine out 2013 jku with the auto trans.
Thanks. My 2015 jeep patriot with 25,000 miles on it decided to due this insane clicking noise one month after the warranty timed out. Does it every time you open any door (including the rear hatch) and trip the dome light. I was pretty sure that was the culprit and was hoping that I wouldn't have to tear apart the whole dash to find it. Thanks for the video, nice to know that it's an inexpensive part but with the number of reports on this in jeep forums it should be on a recall list. The reason I bought a "Jeep" with NO power options and a stick shift was because I was sick and tired of these components failing on every new vehicle I've ever bought. Can't even tell you how pissed I was when this happened.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to tackle this job. I'm curious what may have caused the plastic gear inside the actuator to break. I'm assuming the actuator arm operates a door internal that diverts air flow when activated. It may be that the door is binding.
I think the gear just drys up then cracks. Happens often with plastic gears. The OE designs the part to last the length of the warranty so any cost savings (metal vs plastic gears) is acceptable if they can beat the cost of warranty replacements.
Double thanks for the post! The remove and replace was a huge help but also seeing the replacement part number. The sad sack parts guy wasn't able to find it, so thanks again!
This is very helpful! Thanks for posting. The only thing I’m struggling with is removing the floor duct. It seems pretty easy on your video but mine is not looking like as easy as yours. Could you advise exactly how you took it out? Did you squeeze the further half to release the front half?
So I got this replacement done but now I'm getting a new code. b11cd-00 main/left temperature door 1 travel too large. This happens during the relearn it does each time the vehicle is started or key in the run position. The light on the control knob on the far right will blink when this happens, probably 30 seconds due the failure. Until the light stops, the air will not work. I've even had to restart the Jeep to get it to go away. It may be that used the Doorman part that you had in the video. I'm guessing the gearing inside is just enough different from OEM that it is rotating the arm farther than expected and causing the code.
Excellent video, a little easier for me I had access by moving the glove box, (the steering wheel is on the other side her in Aus). However the floor vent I could remove the top part, but the back part would not remove unless I removed the glove box surround. I managed to align the actuator by aligning the arm in the slot, then adjusted to the screw holes. The part I purchased on Amazon in the USA for $35 including shipping, as the part over here was around $90 Australian. The old actuator I dissembled to have look inside one gear tooth is worn, not chewed away. Hindsight, I could probably realign the gears to make the actuator function, but for $35 not worth the hassle.
Thank you so much for making this. I just got the exact part you mentioned and replaced it myself! Excellent guide and very useful troubleshooting info
thank you i need to see how the arm moved im having a issue with cold air only coming out and when i spin the knob the arm doesnt move( i wasn't getting the noise you got though) so i wanted to make sure this was the issue
Does it matter which way the white lever is placed? I’m confused with the module, the part that spins has a gap”missing gear” is that suppose to line up with how you place the part that spins?
Jeep should just GIVE these (the actuators) away to us because they ALL go bad so quickly, even on the Dodge trucks they go bad in about 5 years. Instead if you go to your local Jeep "Stealership" parts department they want $160 for the part, AutoZone wants $26 for it and Amazon as cheap as $16ish. And quite frankly i have a hard time buying the part from the dealership as I already know it is a POS for the savings I will roll the dice on the autozone duralast part being better than the mopar p.o.s. parts ANYWAY.. Nice video! Thank you.
What does it mean if it goes hott on my passenger side but cold on my driver's side. But blend door actuator doesn't make any clicking noise or any noise at all could it still be bad blendoor actuator
Thanks for the kind words. For the floor vent on mine you have to give it a good pull on one side then the other. The amount of force is somewhat unnerving.
Thank you Thank You Thank You !!! We're headed into a predicted cold snap and not having heat (except the seats) would've been deadly. I didn't have the right size socket for that bar and having that out of the way sure would've helped but it worked out with very little cursing. I have a 2013 Shahara Unlimited.
I have a 17 jeep compass. A previous owner (bought from a dealer) took off the actuator and the arm (its the same on as in the video) that is on the actuator that operates the blend door. The Chrysler dealer does not sell that part. Does anyone know where to get one? Can someone fabricate the arm? What are the dimensions of the arm (thickness, length, width)? Thanks for your help
Thanks for the video, I did not have the click, but my heat did not work, heater core was clear, took the actuator apart and 2 gears were rounded, I rolled the gear so the bad teeth were out of the way, I have heat again, Thanks for the help!!
It does, on the actuator there is a line in the casing that you align to the arm. From there it takes care of it self. Over here we drive on the ‘ correct’ side of the road. So the steering wheel is on the right hand side. Hence the actuator is behind the glove box, far easier access.
Do we have more than one acuator in the jeep i hear it way more in my passenger side than driver side, usually starts clicking as soon as i use the key remote or switch from flow to circulate on the a/c hot or cold
Very informational thanks for the video! just went and checked to see if the arm was moving and indeed it was not. Time to try and getting that vent out lol wish me luck :P
Did you find out if there is a recalibration procedure? Some say there is, others never did. I replaced mine and it froze up for some reason after a few weeks, just installed another one, thinking the other was defective. Great video btw.
Ron Bailey for the 2015 model it took a fair amount force and jiggling it around. I believe the early model years required removing the ecu or something like that. Sorry I don’t have any more info than that.
Same clicking noise on my wife's jeep. I'm in Australia, right hand drive, do you think the location of the actuator is the same? With access through the glove box? To prove and identify the source of clicking noise, is it simply a case of disconcerting the actuator and try the start up cycle, and check for the noise?
Aston Mcleod that’s a tough one. It may still be on the drivers side. Once you find it you can disconnect the electrical and open the door to see if it stops the noise.
Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome video. I just replaced mine today, but my 2013 was a little different from yours. My transmission control module was under the dash and right in the way. I had to remove that before I could gain access to the actuator. Your trick for removing the floor vent was perfect. I'm planning a small video to go over removal of the control module. Do you mind if I link your video for the correct way to remove to blend door actuator?
Those chrysler actuators seem to have a mind of their own. On some jeep models you can hear them cycling even with the engine off. You can buy that same actuator, a mopar one, for 35 dollars on rock auto, hopefully oem is better quality, but if that original crapped out who knows?
One thing to note that I quickly mentioned in the video is I took it out in halves. For the first half you can pull the top part and compress the bottom to release the tabs. Then for the second half you pull the lower L portion towards the drivers side to release it. I believe the tube is different for jks prior to 2012.
Hi! This video is very helpful. I am really struggling with the second half of this tube though. The bottom part pops out easily, but I'm not able to get the top part out. Do you have any further instructions for how to leverage it out? (I have a 2016)
OK, never mind the above question, I did finally get it out!!! Now I'm realizing my automatic transmission control module might be in the way - I can only get to one of the screws on the actuator (Peter Marcano's comment below suggested removing that control module for automatic transmissions), so I'm currently looking into that...
Hey so I unplugged the gas pedal cable for easier access and now it’s not responsive and idling at 2,000 rpms since I’ve plugged it back in. And my check engine light is on.
Ok, so you just have to recalibrate the throttle by *extremely* slowly depressing then releasing (at the same excruciatingly slow pace) the pedal. Check engine light is still on though.
bordercollieflower you may have to put some miles on it before it clears or just head to your local auto parts store and they will usually clear it for you for free.
So I am not getting any clicking and all other controls are working but I still get cold air, felt heater core and it is very hot. Could my connector on the blend actuator be loose or disconnected?
CelebsInActionNYC it may be different for each year. I just looked it up online. I think I got it from rockauto or may have even picked it up at autozone. It was awhile ago.
Just changed mine out. Thank you for the help!! Let me just say this:
Make sure you UNPLUG your battery.
I didnt and when I started my Jeep I got a check engine light and 3 codes:
P2122
U0101
P2127
All pointed to the Transmission Control Module. I checked to see if I plugged them back correctly. I did but for whatever reason the codes were thrown. I unplugged the battery, let the system reboot and I was good to go.
Thanks again!!
Same thing I did.
The only video that shows how to remove the air duct blocking the blend door actuator. Thank you.
true, but we didn't really get to see the removal of the air duct... which is where I'm struggling. I did get it out, but can't get in back in.. In the 3 dimensional plane, its difficult to get it high enough, and rear-ward enough given no space to move/rotate/wiggle it. I'm having difficulty getting the 1st piece to slide over the edges to sit correctly. Any hints or advice would be great, since I'm not finding it "easily comes out" and easily goes back in place.
Thanks you for posting this ! I had to replace my actuator on my ‘13 JKU and I depended on your video for “how to”. The hardest part was removing the vent, I took it apart in two pieces like you recommended, which is a great help. I now have heat !! Great video!
Agreed!
Just replaced mine today. Your video helped me out. Thanks for taking your time to make this!!!
Good video. If you have an automatic transmission, however, you'll have to remove the "Transmission Control Module" before getting to the duct removal and the actuator replacement. Its a bit scary but in reality, it can be removed by removing the 2 bolts that hold the bracket for it in. One on top and one to the right of it. Both are also 8mm bolts and you'll need the wrench extension that you needed earlier. Once removed everything else is in the video.
Two points, in the first You are spot-on, about the TCM I found it best to go ahead and unplug the control module after removing the two bolts because it kept getting in the way, particularly when getting to the blend door Phillips screws. Before that I used an 18MM socket and removed the driver's seat, only took about 5 min and provided way more room to get in and work. This was the second time I have replaced a Blend door actuator and removing the seat saved in about an hour's worth of "jockeying around".-- also made it much easier to get the floor duct out. I bought the part at Orlileys for $28, my jeep dealer wanted $250 for just the part!!!!!
Thank you Indecisive Garage. I just fixed my 2013 JKU Blend door actuator. The key for access is definitely to remove the tube. I took the actuator apart and had a broken tooth too. I rotated that gear 180 and put it all back together and it works fine. I believe the tooth that chipped off jammed the in between the to gears freezing the mechanism. Thank you your video saved me $$$$$$
I did the same and was able to get mine to work for the most part. Full heat still clicks, so I ordered a Doorman off of amazon to replace mine. About 10 dollar price difference between there and Oriley.
Was your defrost light blinking when you had that problem?
@@7arsenal no it wasn’t. Heat would not go out the vents. It was stuck in the cold position.
Thanks for the video! So helpful and easy to follow. Just replaced my actuator in my 2014 JKU with automatic transmission. A little extra work but worth it not to have to deal with the dealership or a garage. 🙌🏼
Sherry13403 great to hear. Feels good to diy and save some cash.
Thanks for posting the video, actuator went out on my 2012 JK, I got lucky putting it back in, the arm slipped right back in the slot without removing the duct. I put the arm back on in the same spot it came off, and just wiggled it back in, and it slipped right back in. I couldn't believe it went right back in, so i plugged the harness back in and tested it, and sure enough working perfect. Also, a difference from your 2015 is the 2012 has what i think is the ECM directly above the gas pedal. It has to be unbolted and put to the side, it has 2 8mm bolts holding it in, but was easy to get to with a long 1/4 inch extension.
I’m so glad I found this video as I’m about to be doing this same fix. I have a 2011 jku rubicon but I assume the process/part looks exactly the same
This is the best video that actually applies to my 2011JKU. Thank you
Thank you!! Great video, excellent instruction/direction. I was a bit intimidated by the thought of replacing this part but your video gave me the confidence to go for it. I didn't read the other comment about eh "Transmission Control Module" so I was a little thrown off when I encountered it, but it was a simple removal. Thank you again for this great video!
A HUGE help. Thanks so much! Got it done in about an hour and a half.
Just what I was looking for. Thx for making the detailed video.
Great video, thank you for taking the time to share it will us. Not sure who the 16 are that gave you thumbs down, the information was spot on. It made the replacement of the part so much easier, and it took no time at all.
If you have a JK with the auto temperature selector, there is an enclosed fan and probe that reads cabin temperature. You'll need to unplug and remove that part in order to remove the floor vent.
I found this out while trouble shooting and prior to watching your video, but if you unplug the throttle position sensor and turn the key on, it'll throw a code. But after 3 or 5 starts it clears.
NoWake200 thanks for the kind words, I guess you can’t please all of the critics :)
Great video, couldn’t have done it without it!!!
This was an immensely helpful video. I actually just changed out the part today. Followed the steps in the video. It wasn’t too bad to get in there. You definitely have to take the air duct out to get to the acuator but the good thing is everything Kinda snaps in and out. I can’t figure out why my air conditioner still takes a few seconds to start up. The defroster still blinks but that hideous knocking noise is gone now. I tested the actuator and the arm moved fine like the way it was supposed to. Thank you for a great video.
The air cond has a built in delay. Ur not supposed to have the ac on when u start the engine. That's why there's a delay I believe.
followed this video and replaced the part without issue. thanks for posting this you're a lifesaver
Awesome video. Just changed out a failed actuator on my 2016 Wrangler. Mine wasn’t clicking, but just wouldn’t move at all. Replaced it with the Dorman part and now it works great. Thanks
stevec2375 thanks for the kind words, glad it helped!
I am wondering if mine is going out, no clicking but ac doesn't cool down right away. After a short while you can hear the air change sound and then the air cools down.
Thanks to your video I got this troubleshot and fixed in a day. Thank you very much.
Thanks for mentioning the the screw hole and the tab. i fought with mine for a while and couldn't get it to fit. once i took the arm off and mounted it, the main part slid into the clip and onto the arm and screwed it in.
I'm sure its been said but this video is a godsend for replacement of this actuator you made a great video thanks it helped me change mine out 2013 jku with the auto trans.
Very helpful video, thank you for sharing! Saved me about $200 by being able to fix this myself and I’m not a super handy guy at all 🤩
Thanks. My 2015 jeep patriot with 25,000 miles on it decided to due this insane clicking noise one month after the warranty timed out. Does it every time you open any door (including the rear hatch) and trip the dome light. I was pretty sure that was the culprit and was hoping that I wouldn't have to tear apart the whole dash to find it. Thanks for the video, nice to know that it's an inexpensive part but with the number of reports on this in jeep forums it should be on a recall list. The reason I bought a "Jeep" with NO power options and a stick shift was because I was sick and tired of these components failing on every new vehicle I've ever bought. Can't even tell you how pissed I was when this happened.
I hear you, it is super annoying! Glad the video helped.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to tackle this job.
I'm curious what may have caused the plastic gear inside the actuator to break.
I'm assuming the actuator arm operates a door internal that diverts air flow when activated. It may be that the door is binding.
I think the gear just drys up then cracks. Happens often with plastic gears. The OE designs the part to last the length of the warranty so any cost savings (metal vs plastic gears) is acceptable if they can beat the cost of warranty replacements.
Also, they probably measure the grease they use to lubricate the gear. $
Thank you for saving me $500 bucks. I suddenly had no heat, no clicking & warm hoses. Fixed this with the $23 part from Autozone in an hour.
Patrick Elliott no worries, glad to help
Just did the same repair. Thanks for the tips!!
Double thanks for the post! The remove and replace was a huge help but also seeing the replacement part number. The sad sack parts guy wasn't able to find it, so thanks again!
Thunderroc18 no worries glad it helped!
Just did mine I have no mechanical skill but did same thing and it worked saved a ton of money
Robert Reinbolz awesome glad you were able to diy it.
This is very helpful! Thanks for posting. The only thing I’m struggling with is removing the floor duct. It seems pretty easy on your video but mine is not looking like as easy as yours. Could you advise exactly how you took it out?
Did you squeeze the further half to release the front half?
I have the same clicking noise. Thanks for posting this. I figured that's where the noise was coming from, but had no idea how to proceed.
So I got this replacement done but now I'm getting a new code. b11cd-00 main/left temperature door 1 travel too large. This happens during the relearn it does each time the vehicle is started or key in the run position. The light on the control knob on the far right will blink when this happens, probably 30 seconds due the failure. Until the light stops, the air will not work. I've even had to restart the Jeep to get it to go away. It may be that used the Doorman part that you had in the video. I'm guessing the gearing inside is just enough different from OEM that it is rotating the arm farther than expected and causing the code.
You’re a legend! This video was excellent, thank you
Excellent video, a little easier for me I had access by moving the glove box, (the steering wheel is on the other side her in Aus). However the floor vent I could remove the top part, but the back part would not remove unless I removed the glove box surround. I managed to align the actuator by aligning the arm in the slot, then adjusted to the screw holes. The part I purchased on Amazon in the USA for $35 including shipping, as the part over here was around $90 Australian. The old actuator I dissembled to have look inside one gear tooth is worn, not chewed away. Hindsight, I could probably realign the gears to make the actuator function, but for $35 not worth the hassle.
Thank you so much for making this. I just got the exact part you mentioned and replaced it myself! Excellent guide and very useful troubleshooting info
thank you i need to see how the arm moved im having a issue with cold air only coming out and when i spin the knob the arm doesnt move( i wasn't getting the noise you got though) so i wanted to make sure this was the issue
Great video, especially gown to get duct in and out . Thanks !
Does it matter which way the white lever is placed? I’m confused with the module, the part that spins has a gap”missing gear” is that suppose to line up with how you place the part that spins?
thanks, my actuator was bind up, this really helped, winter is coming...
David 326 I am glad it helped!
Mine is the actual blending door. Thats the side it boke on mine. Are there 2? Or gears in the vent box that can make thale same sound?
Thank you you're video help me a lot
Jeep should just GIVE these (the actuators) away to us because they ALL go bad so quickly, even on the Dodge trucks they go bad in about 5 years. Instead if you go to your local Jeep "Stealership" parts department they want $160 for the part, AutoZone wants $26 for it and Amazon as cheap as $16ish. And quite frankly i have a hard time buying the part from the dealership as I already know it is a POS for the savings I will roll the dice on the autozone duralast part being better than the mopar p.o.s. parts ANYWAY.. Nice video! Thank you.
How the heck did you get the air vent back in. I can’t for the life of me get the back part in
What does it mean if it goes hott on my passenger side but cold on my driver's side. But blend door actuator doesn't make any clicking noise or any noise at all could it still be bad blendoor actuator
Do you know how to unpin connector G under the fuse box?
Thanks!! Just what the Dr. ordered. Easy instructions.
Thanks for the kind words. For the floor vent on mine you have to give it a good pull on one side then the other. The amount of force is somewhat unnerving.
Thank you Thank You Thank You !!! We're headed into a predicted cold snap and not having heat (except the seats) would've been deadly. I didn't have the right size socket for that bar and having that out of the way sure would've helped but it worked out with very little cursing. I have a 2013 Shahara Unlimited.
Cliff Forrest awesome work glad my video helped!
Excellent. Thank you sir!
I have a 17 jeep compass. A previous owner (bought from a dealer) took off the actuator and the arm (its the same on as in the video) that is on the actuator that operates the blend door. The Chrysler dealer does not sell that part. Does anyone know where to get one? Can someone fabricate the arm? What are the dimensions of the arm (thickness, length, width)? Thanks for your help
Thanks for the video, I did not have the click, but my heat did not work, heater core was clear, took the actuator apart and 2 gears were rounded, I rolled the gear so the bad teeth were out of the way, I have heat again, Thanks for the help!!
sg r glad it helped!
I cant get the vent tube off. any tips?
The reference to calibration was gold.
does it self calibrate?
It does, on the actuator there is a line in the casing that you align to the arm. From there it takes care of it self. Over here we drive on the ‘ correct’ side of the road. So the steering wheel is on the right hand side. Hence the actuator is behind the glove box, far easier access.
thanks! I was wondering if I had stuck the actuator arm in a different position from its original spot on the original door actuator
@@astonmcleod5344
Do we have more than one acuator in the jeep i hear it way more in my passenger side than driver side, usually starts clicking as soon as i use the key remote or switch from flow to circulate on the a/c hot or cold
Very informational thanks for the video! just went and checked to see if the arm was moving and indeed it was not. Time to try and getting that vent out lol wish me luck :P
Bryce Damron glad it helped, good luck with the repair!
Did you find out if there is a recalibration procedure? Some say there is, others never did. I replaced mine and it froze up for some reason after a few weeks, just installed another one, thinking the other was defective. Great video btw.
THANK YOU!
THANK YOU!
THANK YOU!
Mine doesn't make a noise like that but it doesn't work when I turn my heat on. 2015 JK as well
Thank you for the video very helpful. One question for you Sr, after change the actuator you had any drain battery issues?
Thanks and no I did not encounter any issues like that.
Hi Lucio, I changed the actuator and did have a battery drain problem. Still haven’t figured out why...any input would be greatly appreciated.
Joe K Hi Joe, I still have the problem bro when I find the problems I let you know.
I am really struggling to get the vent out. Tried to squeeze it. No luck. Do you have a video or more advice how to get this out
Ron Bailey for the 2015 model it took a fair amount force and jiggling it around. I believe the early model years required removing the ecu or something like that. Sorry I don’t have any more info than that.
Great video ! I have a 2013 jk, my fan works well and the a/c as well but I got no heat. Just cold air coming out, can it be my problem ? Thanks
Julien Tardif yes this could cause that issue.
Super helpful
Same clicking noise on my wife's jeep. I'm in Australia, right hand drive, do you think the location of the actuator is the same? With access through the glove box? To prove and identify the source of clicking noise, is it simply a case of disconcerting the actuator and try the start up cycle, and check for the noise?
Aston Mcleod that’s a tough one. It may still be on the drivers side. Once you find it you can disconnect the electrical and open the door to see if it stops the noise.
Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome video. I just replaced mine today, but my 2013 was a little different from yours. My transmission control module was under the dash and right in the way. I had to remove that before I could gain access to the actuator. Your trick for removing the floor vent was perfect. I'm planning a small video to go over removal of the control module. Do you mind if I link your video for the correct way to remove to blend door actuator?
Utah Wandering glad it helped and feel free to link mine. Thanks
Did you post a video of removing transmission control module?
I'm planning on replacing the actuator on my 2013.
Thanks
We get the clicking noise with our 2012 wrangler jk. Is it still the blend actuator or could it be something else?
If it’s when you open the door there is a good chance.
Those chrysler actuators seem to have a mind of their own. On some jeep models you can hear them cycling even with the engine off. You can buy that same actuator, a mopar one, for 35 dollars on rock auto, hopefully oem is better quality, but if that original crapped out who knows?
One thing to note that I quickly mentioned in the video is I took it out in halves. For the first half you can pull the top part and compress the bottom to release the tabs. Then for the second half you pull the lower L portion towards the drivers side to release it. I believe the tube is different for jks prior to 2012.
Hi! This video is very helpful. I am really struggling with the second half of this tube though. The bottom part pops out easily, but I'm not able to get the top part out. Do you have any further instructions for how to leverage it out? (I have a 2016)
OK, never mind the above question, I did finally get it out!!! Now I'm realizing my automatic transmission control module might be in the way - I can only get to one of the screws on the actuator (Peter Marcano's comment below suggested removing that control module for automatic transmissions), so I'm currently looking into that...
Karen Nielsen l
Any suggestions on what is wrong if I unplugged the actuator and the clicking is still happening?
Denisse Lopez I believe there is another actuator on the other side. I haven’t had to change that one.
My arm is moving but no heat on driver side but hoses from heater core are hot any ideas?
Darryl Roeder drivers side only is odd. Maybe there is a blockage or break in the ducts
I just changed it and my engine light is now illuminated anybody know what it could be ?
Hey so I unplugged the gas pedal cable for easier access and now it’s not responsive and idling at 2,000 rpms since I’ve plugged it back in. And my check engine light is on.
Ok, so you just have to recalibrate the throttle by *extremely* slowly depressing then releasing (at the same excruciatingly slow pace) the pedal. Check engine light is still on though.
bordercollieflower you may have to put some miles on it before it clears or just head to your local auto parts store and they will usually clear it for you for free.
Your video has helped me a lot, thank you for that and for your advice!
bordercollieflower glad to help out.
So I am not getting any clicking and all other controls are working but I still get cold air, felt heater core and it is very hot. Could my connector on the blend actuator be loose or disconnected?
Gabriel Candelaria the motor could be burnt out or a bad connection. Best to check to see if the arm is moving if not you probably have a dead motor z
Arm is not moving, One more question, can the floor vent be taken out in one piece or do you have to split it in half?
Gabriel Candelaria I found it easier to split it in half.
The actuator was in fact dead replaced it and I have heat!! Thanks for the video save me a lot of $$$$$
Gabriel Candelaria no worries glad it helped
Very helpful video!
Sam Netherton glad it helped
What's the part number to the blend door actuator?
CelebsInActionNYC it may be different for each year. I just looked it up online. I think I got it from rockauto or may have even picked it up at autozone. It was awhile ago.
CelebsInActionNYC just realized its on the box in the video. Doorman 604-029. I must have picked it up at autozone.
@@indecisivegarage2389 Thank you!
Thanks for the video wasn't as pretty as yours but got the job done. Save $1000 hope to see more videos.
RA ZZ glad to help out.
Thank You !!!
Arturo Soto you are very welcome
Single most frustrating thing I've ever had to do on my Jeep
You edited all the difficulty from this video out!
Ugh I hate that dam noise !!
Autozone part sucked! it only lasted 1 year