@@flexart174 Really want the DM-608..If I "tap" into all my speakers, am I Done... ? I cam tune my music coming from the stock radio Or do I need to connect the outputs of the DM-608 to ..
@@ceavalencia4767 the dm 608 is what you will use for fine tuning. You can use the high level inputs from your speakers out to an aftermarket amp Iike the dm 608 if you are willing to put the money !
One side at a time and pay attention to the graph on screen. It’s more than that, but there’s more to learn and to do. Mark, you make things easier to comprehend and watching those videos is part of how we learn things. You go guy! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
This was the video I needed. I've been twisting my mind on how to run my 3 way fronts and use a dip for the entire system. This made it so simple. Maybe I will put that old MS- 8 to work in the beater.
I will add a couple of things worth mentioning that weren't talked about in the video when using passive networks down stream from active networks, weather they are active electronic crossovers or DSP. First off one needs to be knowledgeable about the passive network they are using. Is it Link-Riley, Butterworth, Bessal or possibly an elliptical cross over? What order is it? Second, third or forth? What's the roll off 12, 18, 24 db? These things are important to know because any frequency attenuation that is done with the cross over in DSP will change the behavior of the passive cross over. Of course there is nothing stopping one from mixing different types of cross overs in the same network . You are quite able to put a second order LR high pass x-over right next to a third order Butterworth low pass x-over in a band pass network if you like but your mileage may very. So it's important to know what your passive networks are so you can match them in the DSP or active network. You must remember that any frequency attenuation done with the DSP will add to the passive network so if you start with a second order LR in DSP and the passive x-over is also a second order LR what you will end up with is a forth order 24db LR x-over that may or may not exhibit phase issues. In this case sometimes it is best to not assign a x-over in DSP for those front two channels and leave that to the passive network and just use the DSP to EQ the channels and for time alignment. These issues are more prevalent I think with active electronic x-overs then they are with DSP but they can still exist. If the passive network happens to be elliptical combined with DSP you might find yourself dealing with some wonky phase coherence between the tweeter and the woofer especially if they are spaced far apart in a two way component set and in a three way component set those issues can become even more pronounced and hard to fix. There are many different choices we can make when deciding how we will ultimately end up using the sound equipment that we have. Personally I have many times used passive and active networks together. Here is a little trick. By using capacitors one can stack tweeters up on the same channel wired parralel and not worry about the impedance as long as there is one speaker that maintains the required load for the amp such as the woofer or midrange at say two ohms for instance. This can be very useful if you are trying to build say, a tweeter "array" that runs up the A-pillars for instance. This is something I have done in the past and it worked very well and sounded amazing. You start with two channels Front R-L. You put for example a third order high pass Butterworth x-over around 350 to 500 Hz on each channel with the active electronic or DSP unit and attach a 3 or 4 inch midrange in a pod or molded into the A-pillar trim at or about the base of each A-pillar with no passive network hooked to it. Then on the same channel you take a number of small tweeters, maybe four 1/2" to 3/4" fabric or metal dome tweeters and place them in a evenly spaced array up the A-pillar either in little pods or molded into the trim. Except with these tweeters each one will have a single 250 to 500 volt polypropylene foil capacitor that can very in value if desired. Say a 10uf at the bottom next to the midrange working up the array stopping with a 1uf cap on the one highest up on the A-pillar. As long as there is only a first order x-over consisting of a single capacitor on each tweeter and they are on the same channel with the 2ohm mid-woofer the amp will only see the 2 ohm load and you are free to stack tweeters and not send your amp into a conniption fit because it sees a short circuit due to the halfling of impedance you normally would see when wired in parallel without the caps. You can pad the tweeters down with resistors as long as they remain on the down stream side of the capacitors attached to the speaker terminals preferably.
You sir, speak on a completely different level. 90% of installers wouldn’t even understand half of what you just said. I love that. Do you have a site or page to follow your work ? Or a way to contact you for a question?
@@MowSow well thanks. Car audio has always been a hobby of mine. Pretty much every car I have ever owned I put a sound system in. Some of those systems where pretty elaborate. I don't install systems professionally but if you want to see something I am currently working on you can go to diyaudio forums and do a search for "My Tundra is getting a new system" and you will find my build thread for my 2019 Toyota Tundra. It is an on going project at this time. Nothing to over the top as I'm trying to maintain an OEM appearance and not destroy the resale value of my $60,000 truck by hacking apart all of the door panels and A-pillars . I have done some alterations but everything so far has added value to the vehicle. The truck has been modified quite a bit actually with a lift, wheels and tires and other upgrades. If you decide to check out the build thread you will see.
Hey, Even though my system has a passive crossover and a DSP the tweeter seems to vibrate or makes a weird noise during deep base tracks, anything specific to watch out for, Thanks in advance..!!
Good episode, pay attention, beginner's this is how to prevent damage to your speakers and get you started , for the most out of your system, great job 👏 Mark !!
I just wanted to say thank you for the videos that you are producing. I'm currently doing an apprenticeship as a multimedia electronics technician and there we work a lot with audio and also deal a lot with acoustics, but sometimes the subject is explained to us in a boring way and that's why I sometimes just lose it Interested in listening but your videos are, so to speak, a supplement that awakens my interest again and for that I wanted to thank you. greetings from Switzerland ps: I made this text with the help of google translated
Wow, this is exactly the video I needed to see right now. My current amp's crossovers don't have a setting high enough for tweeters so I have passive crossovers. I'm also seriously considering upgrading to the D-5.1300.
I run my rear speakers off of my Kenwood deck. I have them crossed over (in the deck) at 100Hz 24dB/octave, and turned down as far as they can go. I don't really want to hear them, I just want to be able to tell something's not quite right if they weren't there at all. You don't sit with your back to the stage when you go to a concert, do you? That's why rear fill should barely be noticeable, if you even decide to use it at all. Deck power is perfect for this task. Head > DSP >4 channel active to mids and tweets, mono amp to subs.
That was an amazing video with a lot of information and it definitely squashed some of the comments on forums I've visited talking about "not using" a passive crossover with a DSP because it won't sound good. That goes for JL Audio too which I recently was in one of their online seminars talking about this. Thank you so much for this mark. I really appreciate you.
You could power the rears off radio so the 4 ch can be front dedicated. Love and hate car audio sometimes, many different possibilities just with wiring alone
I can see myself installing a configuration JUST like this in the future. Great advice, Mark! I'd love to go DSP but know that active crossovers and the associated amplifier channels are out of my budget.
no one will argue that the engine is a very important thing in your car however you're also going to be wasting your money if you're rolling around on four Donuts. Mark is absolutely correct saying that a DSP is probably one of the best investments and one of the First Investments that you should make.. the audio control gear is top notch. it's one of those things where you buy it and you can just forget about it after that because you already know that part of your system is done there's nothing more to do and you don't have to second-guess your purchase or your decisions on your system. what I'm going to argue is that the rest of the components down the chain are so generic today that you can literally get by with just about anything and have an excellent sounding rig. the best part about going active as you no longer have to deal with the complexity of the crossover Dynamics and its interactions with the amplifier. You no longer have crossover Distortion because you don't have a crossover anymore. This is because of the nature of Class A /B amplification and something as completely sidestepped when you decide to go active. what this translates into is even some of the most modest budget amplifiers that you can buy at a Walmart can do the job with excellent results. the Jensen and the Dual amps , my personal favorite for Budget high quality sound. realistically the amplifiers audio control offers that have a built-in DSP are probably the best way to go since not only do you get a lower noise for you also get a easier system design. if you're not a basehead it's one perfect option. the one question I have is that I thought audiocontrol offered in at least previous versions of their professional Pro gear software and ability to control the high frequency mid-frequency and low frequency timings all on one channel . and professional installations you often have your woofers your mid-frequency drivers and your tweeters in far and different locations so even though they have built-in crossovers the actual devices themselves will be in different time placements and therefore will use a passive crossover in turn away but then use an active DSP to go ahead and take care of the time alignment and other needed functions such as frequency response characteristics of the event space to limit Reflections and Echoes and of course Peaks and they reproduce sound inside of the venue.. it gets a bit tricky with the passive crossover since you can make an adjustment however due to the analogue nature of the crossover you may have to deal then with phase issues and designing your slopes and your target timings in side of the DSP software can be a lot more challenging then simply going fully active. I want to make it clear that you don't need a DSP or Digital Signal processor but boy doesn't make life so much better. a lot of people are said that they don't care about Imaging until they actually listen to a system that was set up for it in the first place and they just can't go back after that. if you are truly on a budget and can deal with the very limited flexibility of the pioneer crossover unit that they offer that's a standalone then go that route the next best budget option is one of the Pioneers that have active mode capability. essentially it's the same thing as the DSP that's offered by pioneer, with a few features that make it worthy as an entry-level DSP to be used in the setups / scenarios that Mark is talking about. just my advice and take it for what you will, if you're going to go with audio control and you want a DSP get one that has the built-in amplifier not only is it a stellar value it really is a better way to go as far as a clean system install. glass RCA runs and a much cleaner signal coming out do the result of getting less interference since its in one nicely shielded chassis.
I really hate to say this but these videos are obviously for professional installers and not for your average Joe. I was really hoping I could get some more insight about installing my system but now I'm more confused than I was before I purchased my system. At any rate, I'm not criticizing you. I'm just more disappointed in myself. Hopefully I can find some videos that speak in simpler terms for us dummies who just want good sound in our cars system. Sorry to sound so negative. I'm sure you're a great guy who loves his trade.
This comment is a year old, but I just read it today and I feel ya. When it comes to upgrading an audio system, the number of options and levels of complexity can be overwhelming. He is obviously a professional and his videos (this one in particular) can go pretty far into the weeds. However, there is no need to dive headfirst into the cutting edge. If you're looking to improve your system, I would recommend starting by replacing the factory speakers in the factory locations (I strongly recommend using Crutchfield because they will confirm whether or not speakers will fit your factory locations and they will provide all the necessary equipment for ease of install). I would also like to emphasize the importance of a good install. Cheaper speakers with proper installation (e.g. a secure mount and application of sound deadening in the doors) will sound better than expensive speakers with a poor installation. If you're not satisfied with that upgrade, add an amplifier to give the aftermarket speakers more juice. You can find a 50W RMS x 4 channel amp for $100-200. For a little bit more, something like the Kicker Key 200.4 provides that power with built-in automatic DSP. The next logical step IMO would be a subwoofer (some would argue to add a sub to your factory system as a first step). With audio, you can spend as much or as little as you want. At a certain point, you run into diminishing returns, where you might need to spend a lot more for an incremental benefit. My point is that you don't need to try to get the perfect system on your first try. Nearly every upgrade can be done piece-wise, and you can re-evaluate your satisfaction with the system after every step. Try the basic upgrades before you start down the rabbit hole of active crossovers, upgrading your alternator to add thousands of watts of power delivery, custom speaker pods/mounting locations, etc. Baby steps, my friend.
Thank you so much for this video!! I bought 4ch amp + active sub along with front components and rear door coax, so when I wanted to buy a DSP I suddenly needed 7 channels I thought, but now you showed me what I was hoping would work which is to use the components on the same channel. With that option I won't have to buy another 6ch amp and an expensive 8 ch DSP cause now I can buy the cheaper 5ch DSP and keep my 4ch amp in order not to blow my budget. I should have done more research before buying stuff though haha.. Thanks!
HELL NO! NEVER FORGET PASSIVE CROSSOVER!!!! 1st.. if dsp breaks, then your whole system is done for.... 2nd.. a DSP is NEVER as accurate as a passive x-over.. failure always comes.
@@kooan112 If you DSP breaks you will most likely hear nothing. I would however use capacitors with speakers anyway, i recently had one channel on my amp pushing DC into my mid (not sure why protection didn't work) and it burned it. As for second one, DSP is way more accurate than passive, caps change their value over time, inductors and resistors have their own inaccuracy as well.
I had a 2way full passive car audio system with DSP Amp. The DSP Amp only used for TA and EQ, so the DSP Amp doesn't work very hard.. got a great result and i'm very satisfied. Anyways, thanks for sharing Mark 👍🏻
So if the DSP Amp has also to filter frequencies there will be power supply issues and heat ? Vs letting the passive crossover for the component speakers do the filtering ? Is it a class D ?
Active crossover only you can finally get the correct acoustic response on both speakers and have both speakers arrive in Phase passive crossovers when you don't have enough channels
i would argue that using the 4 channel only on the components would sound better, since the rear speakers are generally only for "fill" ! So no need for the passive crossover . Run the 6x9 speakers off head unit power or cut them out until you can afford two more channels of amplification . never the less, great explanation of why someone may want to keep those power robbing passive crossovers
Hi Mark. What a great explanation. But what about a 3 way set with midbass, midrange and tweeter. Using a pasive crossover how would you time delay each driver? For example the 3 way focal flax evo has passive crossover and they are not bi-ampable.
If the 3 way speakers are all mounted close to one another "and they should be" there is no need to delay them. you want to delay the speakers as a set. the goal is to delay the set of speakers that are closest to you vs the set on the other side of the car to create a center stage. You are wanting the sound from the left and the right to meet your ears at the same time, obviously the speakers in the drivers door are closer to you then the speakers in the passenger door therefore we delay the drivers speakers by just milliseconds behind the passenger door speakers as so the sound reaches you at the same time. Also don't mount mids in the doors and then mount the tweeters in the dash, they need to be close to one another.
If you don't need fade you can run the rear speakers on the same channels as the front then you can have the tweets on the unused channels, thus removing the need for anything passive.
My aftermarket head unit has built in crossover settings with slope settings, timing, positions and levels, full custom e.q. phase control. Name it. Still trying to come up with a reason to tear it all apart to add one of those dsp.
I have the dm-608. And it is def a improvement... im curious why channels 3n4 are labeled mono though. Do folks hook their sub channel up there? None the less you've answered a question I've asked repeatedly. I've tried measuring from multiple places but still ha entire made up my mind. It makes more sense though so thankyou for the good content. Stay healthy
I am upgrading the audio in my car adding a four channel amplifier to the head unit, a Subwoofer and a Set of Component Speakers for the front and Coaxial's for the Rear. I have a Ford Fiesta 2013. I have removed the front passenger door and see four wires going into a white plug then connects to the speaker harness. Rather than recycle this I am adding the new brackets and need to connect the four pin plug to the speaker. I found an adaptor specific to my car but only has two pins, so guessing the tweeters would not be connected. Also the tweeter is connected to a plug that clicks into the car door. The Component Speakers have built in Crossovers, however upon watching videos I discovered it would be so much easier to set it up with a Crossover as the two pin adaptor would connect directly to the crossover and the Sub and Tweeter directly to it with not need to solder wires or anything. My question therefore is this. Is it OK to add a passive crossover when the Component System has it built in?
Good info! So is still worth it if you have an amp that has Hi and Low bypass? Those DSP don't come cheap I rather not get one if my amp is already doing the same work.
The amp isn't really doing the same work though. The high and low crossovers in your amp just widen or narrow the frequency sent to your speakers, whereas with a dsp you can boost/cut certain frequencies within that range. I would say it depends on your vehicle as well, in my new truck I would consider a more complete system, but in my jeep that I rip through the trails, new speakers on deck power is just fine.
Great video I am at that part were I changed all my speakers but have a DSP and two amps and can not have anyone to help and the places I have gone are not sure how to mount the units the correct way SMH
This setup could actually be used to save power. Someone who wants a custom sound but not have to buy batteries and alternators often. The only problem you run into with this setup is space management. This is A LOT of wire routing and placement that may cut into the overall available air space your system needs (if you route like Mark’s previous builds).
Would power still be an issue with class D amp with DSP inside ? Is it better to drop the crossover that came with my expensive Dynaudio speakers and connect directly to the amp ?
Decided to keep my options open and ordered a vx600/6i so i can run active or jist leave 2 channels empty if i decide to keep it simple and use the passive crossovers.
I'm not sure how simply adding a passive crossover, is going to make any difference in channels for a component set. Even without the passive crossover, the woofer and tweeter can still function on 1 channel, albeit not recommended without the crossover filtering lower frequencies from playing thru the tweeter. Unless the passive crossover is changing the load rating between the component and amplifier, than it's really only a filter than.
Great vid! I have the DM608, just haven’t installed it yet. The one thing I don’t understand is why AC doesn’t have “lift” as an effect on their DSP software. My old kenwood Excelon deck’s DSP has it and it is so great to have for my door speakers down low.
@@Me-dh4pm I hear ya but nope, no gimmicks on the Excelons. It’s called Sound Elevation in the pro setup settings. It “Virtually raises the sound field using the DSP”. Options are off, low, med, high. It literally makes your speakers on the floor sound like they’re up at ear level.
@@DarrenT0dd so that is the point of your processor. When you properly set your crossovers, time align and start to learn about tuning that's the idea. To create a realistic soundstage with your car. So it's the same idea except with your processor you have more control over every channel and can have much greater results when done properly.
I was like yeah… I want that dsp. Looked it up and saw that it cost 750 bucks. That’s more than my entire system and the system in my wife’s car. Damn.
dude you don't need that much money to get good sound. get $109 Pioneer deck. best if you have an iPhone since you can stream high-quality audio right into the head unit. Francis vacation you can go to an AutoZone and pick up a dual 4 channel amplifier. the tweeters can be ran off of deck power just fine. Midbass will be going through the Dual amplifier and also through the subwoofer. you will just Bridges the last two channels to extract the most amount of power. the tweeters can be had for less than $8 a pair and they will perform really well they are available at your local junkyard and they usually stuff them in PT Cruisers and they have a made in Mexico label at the back of them they are a 4 ohm model and approximately 1 inch tweeter. on axis. they're one of the best sounding tweeters that you can get for practically nothing as long as you use a 24db crossover slope. your stock will first will do however if you seriously need to replace him this little baby a Parts Express for about 6 bucks should do the trick www.parts-express.com/6-1-2-Poly-Cone-Woofer-4-Ohm-299-609?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvr6EBhDOARIsAPpqUPFkEE9orYuc_J1oio2vuwVRJS-ynew-Y7jMBm5CNmz5BBxtTQAOyG0aArZ7EALw_wcB what you're really paying for with the higher-end components is more frequency extension and a clear presentation of the sound. However if you use the active settings on most pioneer decks you can actually get the sound quality of hire and parts but you'll have to do it by limiting the frequency range of your speakers. Your door speakers for example will probably be crossed over at about a hundred Hertz or 80 Hertz at 24dB. the killer songs here is that if you use the proper crossover points and run your speakers active you're actually able to make your system sound so much better even with stock components. you don't need a lot of money to get good sound you just need to get some free knowledge with people like me and others have been giving away for over 20 years. if you're willing? take the Venture into a junkyard and get some of these good parts from these cars and you can probably use them on your own or probably find stuff like this already installed them any vehicles and you get yourself a budget system. have a good one! iMickey503
@@MickeyMishra hey man thank you that was really helpful. Trust me my sound system wasn’t that expensive but sounds very good. I just want to see how great I can get it sounding. For starters I need crossovers and need to replace my two way speakers with a component set. I just need to watch more of marks videos to figure out how to fine tune the speakers with a dsp or something. I’ve been lacking on my audio knowledge :/
Stupid question if I have a pair of 3 way component speakers and have a 2 way passive crossover can I get rid of the 3.5 mi and use the tweet and 6.5 for rear fill
Yes. But the signal will be exactly the same. So you lose the ability to now control every spear individually. Ideally every speaker has a channel, with the exception of subwoofers which typically have a Mono signal.
These are the things i have now. Please help me how should i connect this to my car. Honda city stock Stereo 2 sets of Rockford Fosgate components with bi-amp crossovers. ( T1675-S) Nakamichi 8 ch DSP (NDSK 4185AU) hertz 4ch amplifier (HCP 4) Kenwood 2ch amplifier (KAC 5203) Underseat active subwoofer. (Zook monster)
Actually, volume difference and sound character as modified by outer ear structure are the primary ways we determine directionality of a signal. The time difference being a significant factor in staging etc. is a myth. As an example, try a mono sound split into a stereo signal to two identical speakers and dial down the volume on one side or the other. What will happen is that the signal's point of origin, to your imagination, will shift toward the side with the louder sound. Your ears don't CARE which sound wave arrived first. They care about which is loudest, and the subtle modifications to the sound hitting your eardrums by the structure of your ears, which is why the ears have structure and shape, to help differentiate between front and rear.
As a hifi Enthusiast . Not. Audiophile because I'm not stupid. Yes it is pointless if you are using quality parts. You have just reminded me to actually dump my sonus Faber speakers and get a full range driver in an open baffle design. Thanks.
Need help. Using an audiocontrol DM-810 with 2 Alpine PDX4.150? I need to know how to set the filters, crossover, gain and input channels on the amplifiers. Thank you.
I'm still curious to know should I still use my passive crossovers if I'm running a 6 channel amp with every speaker on its own channel with the d-6.1200 audio control amp
long time subscriber, first time commenter. This video was very informative but does lead me to a follow up question. I have the dsp810 going into a build that I'm currently working on and was curious if the amp settings (lpf, hpf, and subsonic filter) still need to be adjusted or will the dsp take care of all that? I cant really find any straight answers on it and the truck is still a few months out before being able to tinker with it. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I would definitely turn off any crossover settings ect. on the amp as the dsp will handle all the signal processing. You don’t want the amp messing with the signal you paid good money for the dsp to do that job much better than the amp can.
I have a mid Rande and a super tweeter connected together. Both 4 ohms. Trying to achieve 2 ohm load. Does a capacitor affect the final ohm load? I keep getting 3.8 ohms and cannot get a 2 ohm load unless capacitor is removed
Mark, sry for the noob question but should I expect my installer will tune the system with the dsp the way you're describing here or will that be something I have to do once its in?
Love your videos and have been a fan for a long time. How would I set up a system that has six speakers such as my Jeep Cherokee? It has front dash speakers running at 8 ohm and the front door and rear door speakers running at 4 ohms. My original thought was running the front dash speakers separate and having its own dedicated amplifier due to the low power they take to push them. Should I just use 8 ohm speakers for the dash since I am sure the power capacity will be lower than if they were running at 4 ohm vs. 8 ohm? I plan on running JBL speakers all the way through.
Great video. Question: I just installed 2 12" alpine r12s, a fosgate 850.2 punch amp, a db drive neo 5 capacitor and a jl loc 22. It just doesn't give the punch. The gain is set to half but the interior factory speakers aren't loud like before and the voltage drops to 12.8 when the volume is on half. I've used fosgate 4awg ofc cable and knukonceptz rca
I couldn't find the video tutorial you mentioned for dsp crossover settings and dsp set up in general. Would you mind linking? Also, any tips for a noisy crossover interference besides moving it?
I had a noise issue with my crossover. I ended up moving it only a few inches from the source of the noise and problem solved. I just wanted to point out that you could move it slightly and you might not need to completely relocate the crossover to fix it
I have always struggled with all the adjustments. Power comes from the amp, which you set your crossovers at, fed to the head unit, which you can set your crossovers at, power then pushed to the components sets passive crossover. Seems like a lot, should we eliminate some of these?
Greetings, I want to install pioneer sea-835 tab in kia sorento sx 14 is the most complete integration system should I use to maintain the functions of the guide and navigation ???
I have a 2014 Kia Optima SX Turbo that I'm wanting to build a custom sub enclosure and amp rack in. I'll be using 10" PSI subs and the PSI 2500 watt amp. The sub requires a ported box 0.9-1.4 ft^3 between 30-36hz. How do I build a custom enclosure to them specs?
yes but a £1500 to £2000 head unit will have all this software inside and if you have passive crossovers they will not play slave to the head unit meaning the crossovers you install are doing zero nothing at all like having 2 of something doing noting ???
Hmm. No, you wouldn't need an amp for each driver. A passive crossover is an attempt to make a channel's component speakers uniformly efficient. A crossover is also commonly designed to temper an audio signal from utilizing a bad sound characteristic from a component speaker. By using a crossover, theoretically, you will be trying to create a single, less distorted "multi-driver" rather than separate drivers in a channel that are each limited in their ability to recreate the entire audio spectrum. Thus, the crossover wants to make multiple drivers act like a single speaker, but it just can't. I don't think it's possible for a good crossover to be designed that will be successful in a car stereo environment because you can't uniformly apply corrections to multiple drivers in vastly different locations. That isn't to say that multiple drivers in a single location can't be "improved" by a simple crossover. Trying to do much more won't help much The use of a single amplifier channel driven to both a tweeter and midrange basically turns those separate drivers into a single speaker whether you want it to or not. You may not LIKE the result, but it can be vastly improved with the use of a good equalizer. You have thus created a "crossover" that should be able to remove the variation in the efficiency differences between the drivers with attenuation (exactly what happens with a crossover), and the peaks or valleys in the frequency response that would be created by driving them with a single channel of amplification can be smoothed. This is really only possible if you have an equalizer that has the ability to be adjusted for each channel. Many can't. You could use a separate equalizer for each channel, but this get's expensive. However, a good analog equalizer on each channel will do a better job than a typical car audio crossover can. In this case, they're both analog too. Thus, crossovers aren't required for car stereo and in most cases an analog equalizer can do more. A good DIGITAL equalizer will do EVEN BETTER than an ANALOG equalizer will. That's really as far as I can go. Even a little more depth requires a lot of typing and there aren't that many people that will read the comments anyway..
Great video, helped me understand audio configuration better once again. Been out of it a while. Few questions. I am currently looking to upgrade my audio in my new Hyundai Ioniq 5 EV which has the base stereo system. I am considering a Audison Ap5.9 bit 5 channel w built DSP. I guess I need to find out if the current factory system employs a crossover for the front speakers as I have a lower speaker and upper tweeter in the front on L&R. If it does could I use one channel from the amp to do the left speaker, one for the right and then a channel for each rear w ability to add a small 8" sub later? Going this route I imagine the sound will be much better vs the factory amp and stock speraks, If I upgraded the speakers to components but essentially run the left and right as co-axials by using the crossover to only use one channel each will the sound be noticeably worse vs running the fronts active w an Audison 8.9 DSP amp at higher cost. Essentially is active going to be alot better or noticeably better?
I am exactly in the same situation now. I have very expensive component speakers with crossover, should I get an Audison DSP with more channels and drop the crossover ? Or do what he did in the video, knowing you cannot tune the mid and tweeters separately in the DSP what did you do !?
You should do a video about having a factory amplifier that has a built in crossover and adding an aftermarket component set with passive crossovers
I agree I've been trying to figure out what I need to do for my 2016 scion tc, been trying to completely upgrade the door speakers
2006 FX35 factory Bose; needs speaker upgrade cant find videos on connections or tuning through DSP
The lc7i from audio control is pretty good. When I do installs on factory systems that's usually my go to . Caf has videos about this too
@@flexart174 Really want the DM-608..If I "tap" into all my speakers, am I Done... ? I cam tune my music coming from the stock radio Or do I need to connect the outputs of the DM-608 to ..
@@ceavalencia4767 the dm 608 is what you will use for fine tuning. You can use the high level inputs from your speakers out to an aftermarket amp Iike the dm 608 if you are willing to put the money !
One side at a time and pay attention to the graph on screen. It’s more than that, but there’s more to learn and to do. Mark, you make things easier to comprehend and watching those videos is part of how we learn things. You go guy! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
This was the video I needed. I've been twisting my mind on how to run my 3 way fronts and use a dip for the entire system. This made it so simple. Maybe I will put that old MS- 8 to work in the beater.
I will add a couple of things worth mentioning that weren't talked about in the video when using passive networks down stream from active networks, weather they are active electronic crossovers or DSP. First off one needs to be knowledgeable about the passive network they are using. Is it Link-Riley, Butterworth, Bessal or possibly an elliptical cross over? What order is it? Second, third or forth? What's the roll off 12, 18, 24 db? These things are important to know because any frequency attenuation that is done with the cross over in DSP will change the behavior of the passive cross over. Of course there is nothing stopping one from mixing different types of cross overs in the same network . You are quite able to put a second order LR high pass x-over right next to a third order Butterworth low pass x-over in a band pass network if you like but your mileage may very.
So it's important to know what your passive networks are so you can match them in the DSP or active network. You must remember that any frequency attenuation done with the DSP will add to the passive network so if you start with a second order LR in DSP and the passive x-over is also a second order LR what you will end up with is a forth order 24db LR x-over that may or may not exhibit phase issues. In this case sometimes it is best to not assign a x-over in DSP for those front two channels and leave that to the passive network and just use the DSP to EQ the channels and for time alignment. These issues are more prevalent I think with active electronic x-overs then they are with DSP but they can still exist.
If the passive network happens to be elliptical combined with DSP you might find yourself dealing with some wonky phase coherence between the tweeter and the woofer especially if they are spaced far apart in a two way component set and in a three way component set those issues can become even more pronounced and hard to fix. There are many different choices we can make when deciding how we will ultimately end up using the sound equipment that we have. Personally I have many times used passive and active networks together. Here is a little trick. By using capacitors one can stack tweeters up on the same channel wired parralel and not worry about the impedance as long as there is one speaker that maintains the required load for the amp such as the woofer or midrange at say two ohms for instance.
This can be very useful if you are trying to build say, a tweeter "array" that runs up the A-pillars for instance. This is something I have done in the past and it worked very well and sounded amazing. You start with two channels Front R-L. You put for example a third order high pass Butterworth x-over around 350 to 500 Hz on each channel with the active electronic or DSP unit and attach a 3 or 4 inch midrange in a pod or molded into the A-pillar trim at or about the base of each A-pillar with no passive network hooked to it. Then on the same channel you take a number of small tweeters, maybe four 1/2" to 3/4" fabric or metal dome tweeters and place them in a evenly spaced array up the A-pillar either in little pods or molded into the trim. Except with these tweeters each one will have a single 250 to 500 volt polypropylene foil capacitor that can very in value if desired. Say a 10uf at the bottom next to the midrange working up the array stopping with a 1uf cap on the one highest up on the A-pillar. As long as there is only a first order x-over consisting of a single capacitor on each tweeter and they are on the same channel with the 2ohm mid-woofer the amp will only see the 2 ohm load and you are free to stack tweeters and not send your amp into a conniption fit because it sees a short circuit due to the halfling of impedance you normally would see when wired in parallel without the caps. You can pad the tweeters down with resistors as long as they remain on the down stream side of the capacitors attached to the speaker terminals preferably.
You sir, speak on a completely different level. 90% of installers wouldn’t even understand half of what you just said.
I love that. Do you have a site or page to follow your work ? Or a way to contact you for a question?
@@MowSow well thanks. Car audio has always been a hobby of mine. Pretty much every car I have ever owned I put a sound system in. Some of those systems where pretty elaborate. I don't install systems professionally but if you want to see something I am currently working on you can go to
diyaudio
forums and do a search for
"My Tundra is getting a new system"
and you will find my build thread for my 2019 Toyota Tundra. It is an on going project at this time. Nothing to over the top as I'm trying to maintain an OEM appearance and not destroy the resale value of my $60,000 truck by hacking apart all of the door panels and A-pillars . I have done some alterations but everything so far has added value to the vehicle. The truck has been modified quite a bit actually with a lift, wheels and tires and other upgrades. If you decide to check out the build thread you will see.
Hey, Even though my system has a passive crossover and a DSP the tweeter seems to vibrate or makes a weird noise during deep base tracks, anything specific to watch out for, Thanks in advance..!!
Good episode, pay attention, beginner's this is how to prevent damage to your speakers and get you started , for the most out of your system, great job 👏 Mark !!
I just wanted to say thank you for the videos that you are producing. I'm currently doing an apprenticeship as a multimedia electronics technician and there we work a lot with audio and also deal a lot with acoustics, but sometimes the subject is explained to us in a boring way and that's why I sometimes just lose it Interested in listening but your videos are, so to speak, a supplement that awakens my interest again and for that I wanted to thank you.
greetings from Switzerland
ps: I made this text with the help of google translated
Wow, this is exactly the video I needed to see right now. My current amp's crossovers don't have a setting high enough for tweeters so I have passive crossovers. I'm also seriously considering upgrading to the D-5.1300.
You won't be unhappy with that amp ; )
I run my rear speakers off of my Kenwood deck. I have them crossed over (in the deck) at 100Hz 24dB/octave, and turned down as far as they can go. I don't really want to hear them, I just want to be able to tell something's not quite right if they weren't there at all. You don't sit with your back to the stage when you go to a concert, do you? That's why rear fill should barely be noticeable, if you even decide to use it at all. Deck power is perfect for this task.
Head > DSP >4 channel active to mids and tweets, mono amp to subs.
Thanks for this, this is exactly the question im asking my self with my upcoming install in my car! 👍
That was an amazing video with a lot of information and it definitely squashed some of the comments on forums I've visited talking about "not using" a passive crossover with a DSP because it won't sound good. That goes for JL Audio too which I recently was in one of their online seminars talking about this.
Thank you so much for this mark. I really appreciate you.
You could power the rears off radio so the 4 ch can be front dedicated. Love and hate car audio sometimes, many different possibilities just with wiring alone
I can see myself installing a configuration JUST like this in the future. Great advice, Mark! I'd love to go DSP but know that active crossovers and the associated amplifier channels are out of my budget.
no one will argue that the engine is a very important thing in your car however you're also going to be wasting your money if you're rolling around on four Donuts.
Mark is absolutely correct saying that a DSP is probably one of the best investments and one of the First Investments that you should make.. the audio control gear is top notch. it's one of those things where you buy it and you can just forget about it after that because you already know that part of your system is done there's nothing more to do and you don't have to second-guess your purchase or your decisions on your system.
what I'm going to argue is that the rest of the components down the chain are so generic today that you can literally get by with just about anything and have an excellent sounding rig.
the best part about going active as you no longer have to deal with the complexity of the crossover Dynamics and its interactions with the amplifier.
You no longer have crossover Distortion because you don't have a crossover anymore. This is because of the nature of Class A /B amplification and something as completely sidestepped when you decide to go active. what this translates into is even some of the most modest budget amplifiers that you can buy at a Walmart can do the job with excellent results. the Jensen and the Dual amps , my personal favorite for Budget high quality sound.
realistically the amplifiers audio control offers that have a built-in DSP are probably the best way to go since not only do you get a lower noise for you also get a easier system design. if you're not a basehead it's one perfect option.
the one question I have is that I thought audiocontrol offered in at least previous versions of their professional Pro gear software and ability to control the high frequency mid-frequency and low frequency timings all on one channel .
and professional installations you often have your woofers your mid-frequency drivers and your tweeters in far and different locations so even though they have built-in crossovers the actual devices themselves will be in different time placements and therefore will use a passive crossover in turn away but then use an active DSP to go ahead and take care of the time alignment and other needed functions such as frequency response characteristics of the event space to limit Reflections and Echoes and of course Peaks and they reproduce sound inside of the venue..
it gets a bit tricky with the passive crossover since you can make an adjustment however due to the analogue nature of the crossover you may have to deal then with phase issues and designing your slopes and your target timings in side of the DSP software can be a lot more challenging then simply going fully active.
I want to make it clear that you don't need a DSP or Digital Signal processor but boy doesn't make life so much better.
a lot of people are said that they don't care about Imaging until they actually listen to a system that was set up for it in the first place and they just can't go back after that.
if you are truly on a budget and can deal with the very limited flexibility of the pioneer crossover unit that they offer that's a standalone then go that route the next best budget option is one of the Pioneers that have active mode capability. essentially it's the same thing as the DSP that's offered by pioneer, with a few features that make it worthy as an entry-level DSP to be used in the setups / scenarios that Mark is talking about.
just my advice and take it for what you will, if you're going to go with audio control and you want a DSP get one that has the built-in amplifier not only is it a stellar value it really is a better way to go as far as a clean system install.
glass RCA runs and a much cleaner signal coming out do the result of getting less interference since its in one nicely shielded chassis.
Thanks to you I now have the best sounding system I’ve ever had in a car.
I really hate to say this but these videos are obviously for professional installers and not for your average Joe. I was really hoping I could get some more insight about installing my system but now I'm more confused than I was before I purchased my system. At any rate, I'm not criticizing you. I'm just more disappointed in myself. Hopefully I can find some videos that speak in simpler terms for us dummies who just want good sound in our cars system. Sorry to sound so negative. I'm sure you're a great guy who loves his trade.
You’re funny. But I agree.
This comment is a year old, but I just read it today and I feel ya. When it comes to upgrading an audio system, the number of options and levels of complexity can be overwhelming. He is obviously a professional and his videos (this one in particular) can go pretty far into the weeds. However, there is no need to dive headfirst into the cutting edge. If you're looking to improve your system, I would recommend starting by replacing the factory speakers in the factory locations (I strongly recommend using Crutchfield because they will confirm whether or not speakers will fit your factory locations and they will provide all the necessary equipment for ease of install). I would also like to emphasize the importance of a good install. Cheaper speakers with proper installation (e.g. a secure mount and application of sound deadening in the doors) will sound better than expensive speakers with a poor installation. If you're not satisfied with that upgrade, add an amplifier to give the aftermarket speakers more juice. You can find a 50W RMS x 4 channel amp for $100-200. For a little bit more, something like the Kicker Key 200.4 provides that power with built-in automatic DSP. The next logical step IMO would be a subwoofer (some would argue to add a sub to your factory system as a first step).
With audio, you can spend as much or as little as you want. At a certain point, you run into diminishing returns, where you might need to spend a lot more for an incremental benefit. My point is that you don't need to try to get the perfect system on your first try. Nearly every upgrade can be done piece-wise, and you can re-evaluate your satisfaction with the system after every step. Try the basic upgrades before you start down the rabbit hole of active crossovers, upgrading your alternator to add thousands of watts of power delivery, custom speaker pods/mounting locations, etc. Baby steps, my friend.
As a video viewer, just take what you want and leave the rest. Not every video is relevant to every individual situation.
Thank you so much for this video!!
I bought 4ch amp + active sub along with front components and rear door coax, so when I wanted to buy a DSP I suddenly needed 7 channels I thought, but now you showed me what I was hoping would work which is to use the components on the same channel. With that option I won't have to buy another 6ch amp and an expensive 8 ch DSP cause now I can buy the cheaper 5ch DSP and keep my 4ch amp in order not to blow my budget.
I should have done more research before buying stuff though haha.. Thanks!
Per the title. Depends on how many amp channels you have. But the answer is yes. :)
HELL NO! NEVER FORGET PASSIVE CROSSOVER!!!!
1st.. if dsp breaks, then your whole system is done for....
2nd.. a DSP is NEVER as accurate as a passive x-over.. failure always comes.
@@kooan112 we can agree to disagree.
@@kooan112 If you DSP breaks you will most likely hear nothing.
I would however use capacitors with speakers anyway, i recently had one channel on my amp pushing DC into my mid (not sure why protection didn't work) and it burned it.
As for second one, DSP is way more accurate than passive, caps change their value over time, inductors and resistors have their own inaccuracy as well.
Well said..
@@kooan112 wow... I hope nobody takes this advice. Sorry buddy but you dont use a passive to prevent dsp failure. 😱
Thank you Mark for your videos. I really appreciate your integrity, information, and just overall helpfulness! Awesome channel!
Get back to the Jeep dash pods....I’m trying to make mine ASAP and want to copy yours lol.
I had a 2way full passive car audio system with DSP Amp. The DSP Amp only used for TA and EQ, so the DSP Amp doesn't work very hard.. got a great result and i'm very satisfied.
Anyways, thanks for sharing Mark 👍🏻
So if the DSP Amp has also to filter frequencies there will be power supply issues and heat ? Vs letting the passive crossover for the component speakers do the filtering ? Is it a class D ?
Active crossover only you can finally get the correct acoustic response on both speakers and have both speakers arrive in Phase passive crossovers when you don't have enough channels
Been watching your vids for awhile now, Thanks for the tips an companies you use. I just received my 1/0 ofc amp kit an wow what a difference!!!!
Always learning from your chanel ☺️
Thank you so much for this precise and clear explanation. Love this channel!
i would argue that using the 4 channel only on the components would sound better, since the rear speakers are generally only for "fill" ! So no need for the passive crossover . Run the 6x9 speakers off head unit power or cut them out until you can afford two more channels of amplification . never the less, great explanation of why someone may want to keep those power robbing passive crossovers
Hi Mark. What a great explanation. But what about a 3 way set with midbass, midrange and tweeter. Using a pasive crossover how would you time delay each driver? For example the 3 way focal flax evo has passive crossover and they are not bi-ampable.
If the 3 way speakers are all mounted close to one another "and they should be" there is no need to delay them. you want to delay the speakers as a set. the goal is to delay the set of speakers that are closest to you vs the set on the other side of the car to create a center stage. You are wanting the sound from the left and the right to meet your ears at the same time, obviously the speakers in the drivers door are closer to you then the speakers in the passenger door therefore we delay the drivers speakers by just milliseconds behind the passenger door speakers as so the sound reaches you at the same time. Also don't mount mids in the doors and then mount the tweeters in the dash, they need to be close to one another.
This was seriously helpful.
Thank you. Always good informative videos. Well put together and well said.
If you don't need fade you can run the rear speakers on the same channels as the front then you can have the tweets on the unused channels, thus removing the need for anything passive.
My aftermarket head unit has built in crossover settings with slope settings, timing, positions and levels, full custom e.q. phase control. Name it. Still trying to come up with a reason to tear it all apart to add one of those dsp.
Your head unit doesn't do EQ at each individual speaker. You are EQ'ing the system as a whole.
Not true some head units like the 80 prs has networking system that separates the mids highs and bass using three different rca outputs
@@Trinidadcaraudio I have a Pioneer AVH-601EX. Thing does everything. Love it well worth the money.
I have the dm-608. And it is def a improvement... im curious why channels 3n4 are labeled mono though. Do folks hook their sub channel up there? None the less you've answered a question I've asked repeatedly. I've tried measuring from multiple places but still ha entire made up my mind. It makes more sense though so thankyou for the good content. Stay healthy
Love this Channel I have learned so much. You are a master of your craft Sir.
No wonder those modern car radios sound so good with all the sound processing in them
I am upgrading the audio in my car adding a four channel amplifier to the head unit, a Subwoofer and a Set of Component Speakers for the front and Coaxial's for the Rear. I have a Ford Fiesta 2013.
I have removed the front passenger door and see four wires going into a white plug then connects to the speaker harness. Rather than recycle this I am adding the new brackets and need to connect the four pin plug to the speaker. I found an adaptor specific to my car but only has two pins, so guessing the tweeters would not be connected. Also the tweeter is connected to a plug that clicks into the car door.
The Component Speakers have built in Crossovers, however upon watching videos I discovered it would be so much easier to set it up with a Crossover as the two pin adaptor would connect directly to the crossover and the Sub and Tweeter directly to it with not need to solder wires or anything.
My question therefore is this. Is it OK to add a passive crossover when the Component System has it built in?
Lots of thanks to the youth-oriented videos.
Good info! So is still worth it if you have an amp that has Hi and Low bypass? Those DSP don't come cheap I rather not get one if my amp is already doing the same work.
The amp isn't really doing the same work though. The high and low crossovers in your amp just widen or narrow the frequency sent to your speakers, whereas with a dsp you can boost/cut certain frequencies within that range. I would say it depends on your vehicle as well, in my new truck I would consider a more complete system, but in my jeep that I rip through the trails, new speakers on deck power is just fine.
Great video I am at that part were I changed all my speakers but have a DSP and two amps and can not have anyone to help and the places I have gone are not sure how to mount the units the correct way
SMH
What about the slope setting when you use a pasive filter?
Extra protection. No enough amplifier channels.
i love your content. I am looking into getting the same set up you installed on your dads truck with the jl audio speakers
Great content and explanation!
This setup could actually be used to save power. Someone who wants a custom sound but not have to buy batteries and alternators often. The only problem you run into with this setup is space management. This is A LOT of wire routing and placement that may cut into the overall available air space your system needs (if you route like Mark’s previous builds).
Would power still be an issue with class D amp with DSP inside ?
Is it better to drop the crossover that came with my expensive Dynaudio speakers and connect directly to the amp ?
Thanks bro 😎 I’ve been wiring for this vid
If you are adding a crossover to your system (Audio Control DQDX)would you still need the crossovers that are included in the component set?
Decided to keep my options open and ordered a vx600/6i so i can run active or jist leave 2 channels empty if i decide to keep it simple and use the passive crossovers.
Very nice! Great amplifier that will treat you well!
I'm not sure how simply adding a passive crossover, is going to make any difference in channels for a component set. Even without the passive crossover, the woofer and tweeter can still function on 1 channel, albeit not recommended without the crossover filtering lower frequencies from playing thru the tweeter. Unless the passive crossover is changing the load rating between the component and amplifier, than it's really only a filter than.
Great vid! I have the DM608, just haven’t installed it yet. The one thing I don’t understand is why AC doesn’t have “lift” as an effect on their DSP software. My old kenwood Excelon deck’s DSP has it and it is so great to have for my door speakers down low.
Lift? What is that? Sounds like a gimmick
@@Me-dh4pm I hear ya but nope, no gimmicks on the Excelons. It’s called Sound Elevation in the pro setup settings. It “Virtually raises the sound field using the DSP”. Options are off, low, med, high. It literally makes your speakers on the floor sound like they’re up at ear level.
@@DarrenT0dd so that is the point of your processor. When you properly set your crossovers, time align and start to learn about tuning that's the idea. To create a realistic soundstage with your car. So it's the same idea except with your processor you have more control over every channel and can have much greater results when done properly.
Why would you need lift when you have proper time alignment that is suppose to put the sound in center stage, you.
How does that work if you have 3 ways speakers at the front and 2 ways speakers at the rear plus a powered subwoofer? Thank you.
Excelente video , mis dudas han sido resueltas , THANK YOU .
Someone said that you do not need passive crossovers he said on the dsp you can control the tweeters without blowing them without crossovers ist true?
I was like yeah… I want that dsp. Looked it up and saw that it cost 750 bucks. That’s more than my entire system and the system in my wife’s car. Damn.
Thank u for detailed ,precise info
Ugh I wish I had the money to get systems like yours
dude you don't need that much money to get good sound.
get $109 Pioneer deck. best if you have an iPhone since you can stream high-quality audio right into the head unit. Francis vacation you can go to an AutoZone and pick up a dual 4 channel amplifier.
the tweeters can be ran off of deck power just fine.
Midbass will be going through the Dual amplifier and also through the subwoofer. you will just Bridges the last two channels to extract the most amount of power.
the tweeters can be had for less than $8 a pair and they will perform really well they are available at your local junkyard and they usually stuff them in PT Cruisers and they have a made in Mexico label at the back of them they are a 4 ohm model and approximately 1 inch tweeter. on axis. they're one of the best sounding tweeters that you can get for practically nothing as long as you use a 24db crossover slope.
your stock will first will do however if you seriously need to replace him this little baby a Parts Express for about 6 bucks should do the trick
www.parts-express.com/6-1-2-Poly-Cone-Woofer-4-Ohm-299-609?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvr6EBhDOARIsAPpqUPFkEE9orYuc_J1oio2vuwVRJS-ynew-Y7jMBm5CNmz5BBxtTQAOyG0aArZ7EALw_wcB
what you're really paying for with the higher-end components is more frequency extension and a clear presentation of the sound. However if you use the active settings on most pioneer decks you can actually get the sound quality of hire and parts but you'll have to do it by limiting the frequency range of your speakers. Your door speakers for example will probably be crossed over at about a hundred Hertz or 80 Hertz at 24dB.
the killer songs here is that if you use the proper crossover points and run your speakers active you're actually able to make your system sound so much better even with stock components.
you don't need a lot of money to get good sound you just need to get some free knowledge with people like me and others have been giving away for over 20 years.
if you're willing? take the Venture into a junkyard and get some of these good parts from these cars and you can probably use them on your own or probably find stuff like this already installed them any vehicles and you get yourself a budget system.
have a good one!
iMickey503
@@MickeyMishra hey man thank you that was really helpful. Trust me my sound system wasn’t that expensive but sounds very good. I just want to see how great I can get it sounding. For starters I need crossovers and need to replace my two way speakers with a component set. I just need to watch more of marks videos to figure out how to fine tune the speakers with a dsp or something. I’ve been lacking on my audio knowledge :/
And thanks mark
I have one question, how do adjust the sound for the tweeter and midrange on the dsp if they are on the same channel? Thanks your great!
Stupid question if I have a pair of 3 way component speakers and have a 2 way passive crossover can I get rid of the 3.5 mi and use the tweet and 6.5 for rear fill
Mark your videos are awesome ty
What kind of passive crossover's are those?
If using 3-way components up front, would you still treat the left and right fronts as channels 1 & 2 when using passive crossovers?
I could be wrong but if you don’t have enough rca channels, can’t you use rca splitters
Yes. But the signal will be exactly the same. So you lose the ability to now control every spear individually. Ideally every speaker has a channel, with the exception of subwoofers which typically have a Mono signal.
These are the things i have now. Please help me how should i connect this to my car.
Honda city stock Stereo
2 sets of Rockford Fosgate components with bi-amp crossovers. ( T1675-S)
Nakamichi 8 ch DSP (NDSK 4185AU)
hertz 4ch amplifier (HCP 4)
Kenwood 2ch amplifier (KAC 5203)
Underseat active subwoofer. (Zook monster)
Actually, volume difference and sound character as modified by outer ear structure are the primary ways we determine directionality of a signal. The time difference being a significant factor in staging etc. is a myth. As an example, try a mono sound split into a stereo signal to two identical speakers and dial down the volume on one side or the other. What will happen is that the signal's point of origin, to your imagination, will shift toward the side with the louder sound.
Your ears don't CARE which sound wave arrived first. They care about which is loudest, and the subtle modifications to the sound hitting your eardrums by the structure of your ears, which is why the ears have structure and shape, to help differentiate between front and rear.
As a hifi Enthusiast . Not. Audiophile because I'm not stupid. Yes it is pointless if you are using quality parts. You have just reminded me to actually dump my sonus Faber speakers and get a full range driver in an open baffle design. Thanks.
This video was very informative bravo. I have a question about the DSP if it's the same thing as an equaliser or active crossover?
Need help. Using an audiocontrol DM-810 with 2 Alpine PDX4.150? I need to know how to set the filters, crossover, gain and input channels on the amplifiers. Thank you.
BEST X-planation EVAR!
Great video! 👍👍👍
Question about having a 6ch amp for the cabin speakers. That plus the other things with in the system. Is that the best way to get a true SQ system?
I'm still curious to know should I still use my passive crossovers if I'm running a 6 channel amp with every speaker on its own channel with the d-6.1200 audio control amp
I should buy a passive crossover.
Mat cant find the video on values can you point me in the right direction for it
@car audio fabrication So is it still beneficial to use a crossover on a 6ch amp?
Can we use a coxial as component by connecting it into a crossover.
Hi, what if you have a built in EQ on the head unit? Would I just need to set the EQ flat or default setting before I tune DSP? Thanks 🙏
I run a dedicated 4 channel for my front stage, shit is loud Morel Hybrid 6.5s are the tits
if i have passive crossovers and they are hooked up correctly, can i still blow my tweets by an adjustment i made on my radio?
long time subscriber, first time commenter. This video was very informative but does lead me to a follow up question. I have the dsp810 going into a build that I'm currently working on and was curious if the amp settings (lpf, hpf, and subsonic filter) still need to be adjusted or will the dsp take care of all that? I cant really find any straight answers on it and the truck is still a few months out before being able to tinker with it. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I would definitely turn off any crossover settings ect. on the amp as the dsp will handle all the signal processing. You don’t want the amp messing with the signal you paid good money for the dsp to do that job much better than the amp can.
I have a mid Rande and a super tweeter connected together. Both 4 ohms. Trying to achieve 2 ohm load. Does a capacitor affect the final ohm load? I keep getting 3.8 ohms and cannot get a 2 ohm load unless capacitor is removed
Mark, sry for the noob question but should I expect my installer will tune the system with the dsp the way you're describing here or will that be something I have to do once its in?
Depends some audio shops have the tools and information to tune a Dsp system and some don’t just have to look around see or do it yourself
I went to your website and I saw a down firing box for my truck that was exactly what I wanted. I was wondering if I could get you to make one for me?
Love your videos and have been a fan for a long time. How would I set up a system that has six speakers such as my Jeep Cherokee? It has front dash speakers running at 8 ohm and the front door and rear door speakers running at 4 ohms. My original thought was running the front dash speakers separate and having its own dedicated amplifier due to the low power they take to push them. Should I just use 8 ohm speakers for the dash since I am sure the power capacity will be lower than if they were running at 4 ohm vs. 8 ohm? I plan on running JBL speakers all the way through.
How would that work with the Kenwood hi-res amplifier 401 and Kenwood DMX 706s and their speakers 1701 from Kenwood
Great video!!!
Great video. Question: I just installed
2 12" alpine r12s, a fosgate 850.2 punch amp, a db drive neo 5 capacitor and a jl loc 22.
It just doesn't give the punch. The gain is set to half but the interior factory speakers aren't loud like before and the voltage drops to 12.8 when the volume is on half. I've used fosgate 4awg ofc cable and knukonceptz rca
So, would a component set be a 2 or 4 ohm load or does the crossover act as the load?
What about a dqdx?
Would it ever be worth using a 2 channel amp for the tweeters?
I couldn't find the video tutorial you mentioned for dsp crossover settings and dsp set up in general. Would you mind linking? Also, any tips for a noisy crossover interference besides moving it?
I had a noise issue with my crossover. I ended up moving it only a few inches from the source of the noise and problem solved. I just wanted to point out that you could move it slightly and you might not need to completely relocate the crossover to fix it
I have always struggled with all the adjustments. Power comes from the amp, which you set your crossovers at, fed to the head unit, which you can set your crossovers at, power then pushed to the components sets passive crossover. Seems like a lot, should we eliminate some of these?
Use a tuner that has a microphone and can do all the tuning automatically
if my system already has from stock a speaker and tweeter do i need to install a crossover when replacing speakers my car comes stock dsp
Greetings, I want to install pioneer sea-835 tab in kia sorento sx 14 is the most complete integration system should I use to maintain the functions of the guide and navigation ???
I have a 2014 Kia Optima SX Turbo that I'm wanting to build a custom sub enclosure and amp rack in. I'll be using 10" PSI subs and the PSI 2500 watt amp. The sub requires a ported box 0.9-1.4 ft^3 between 30-36hz. How do I build a custom enclosure to them specs?
can you give me any idea of a setup for a Suzuki swift 2008 model
Hello I have a question is it a good thing too run 2 midrange 6.5 and a tweeter off of a passive crossover?
yes but a £1500 to £2000 head unit will have all this software inside and if you have passive crossovers they will not play slave to the head unit meaning the crossovers you install are doing zero nothing at all like having 2 of something doing noting ???
Whats is the dsp?
if the 6.5 can take 200 rms and the tweeter 50 and i use a passive crossover rater for that power can i power them with 250 altogether just wonderin
Hmm.
No, you wouldn't need an amp for each driver. A passive crossover is an attempt to make a channel's component speakers uniformly efficient. A crossover is also commonly designed to temper an audio signal from utilizing a bad sound characteristic from a component speaker. By using a crossover, theoretically, you will be trying to create a single, less distorted "multi-driver" rather than separate drivers in a channel that are each limited in their ability to recreate the entire audio spectrum. Thus, the crossover wants to make multiple drivers act like a single speaker, but it just can't.
I don't think it's possible for a good crossover to be designed that will be successful in a car stereo environment because you can't uniformly apply corrections to multiple drivers in vastly different locations. That isn't to say that multiple drivers in a single location can't be "improved" by a simple crossover. Trying to do much more won't help much
The use of a single amplifier channel driven to both a tweeter and midrange basically turns those separate drivers into a single speaker whether you want it to or not. You may not LIKE the result, but it can be vastly improved with the use of a good equalizer. You have thus created a "crossover" that should be able to remove the variation in the efficiency differences between the drivers with attenuation (exactly what happens with a crossover), and the peaks or valleys in the frequency response that would be created by driving them with a single channel of amplification can be smoothed.
This is really only possible if you have an equalizer that has the ability to be adjusted for each channel. Many can't. You could use a separate equalizer for each channel, but this get's expensive. However, a good analog equalizer on each channel will do a better job than a typical car audio crossover can. In this case, they're both analog too. Thus, crossovers aren't required for car stereo and in most cases an analog equalizer can do more.
A good DIGITAL equalizer will do EVEN BETTER than an ANALOG equalizer will.
That's really as far as I can go. Even a little more depth requires a lot of typing and there aren't that many people that will read the comments anyway..
Great video, helped me understand audio configuration better once again. Been out of it a while. Few questions. I am currently looking to upgrade my audio in my new Hyundai Ioniq 5 EV which has the base stereo system. I am considering a Audison Ap5.9 bit 5 channel w built DSP. I guess I need to find out if the current factory system employs a crossover for the front speakers as I have a lower speaker and upper tweeter in the front on L&R. If it does could I use one channel from the amp to do the left speaker, one for the right and then a channel for each rear w ability to add a small 8" sub later? Going this route I imagine the sound will be much better vs the factory amp and stock speraks, If I upgraded the speakers to components but essentially run the left and right as co-axials by using the crossover to only use one channel each will the sound be noticeably worse vs running the fronts active w an Audison 8.9 DSP amp at higher cost. Essentially is active going to be alot better or noticeably better?
I am exactly in the same situation now. I have very expensive component speakers with crossover, should I get an Audison DSP with more channels and drop the crossover ? Or do what he did in the video, knowing you cannot tune the mid and tweeters separately in the DSP
what did you do !?
I keep reading forums about noise floor issues with the DM 608 and DM 810 is this true or is it bad installs ?