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There are many reasons to get a DSP. One of my main reasons is I need RCA outputs to run to my amps. Now there are Line Level Converters but after doing a lot of research I found they do not convert the signal near as well as the DSP I got. They introduce noise and sometimes out right alter the signals. Great video.
The geek in me makes me want to run out and get a DSP. The realist in me knows I probably don't have the desire or dedication to actually learn how to put it to good use.
Most people I know don't know how to tune or tweak their DSP's so they actually sound worse than the previous passive setup. 95% of the "audio enthusiasts" don't need one nor do they have the time and dedication to maximize it's potential.
I just installed an alpine pxe c60 with a mic and pc using the auto tune with some small adjustment, setting the crossovers and slopes. Was time consuming but well worth it.
I added a miniDSP 4X2HD to my desktop sound system and it massively improved my overall sound quality and gave me a significant improvement to the flexibility of my system. I will definitely be adding a miniDSP car DSP into my vehicle soon.
Ohh, and that's why my audio system sounded little left biased on my previous car - it was the untuned signal and the signal delay was not applied to the left (driver) side. Had I gone with DSP in my case, I could've made my audio system sound even better and way more balanced. Taking notes from this video if I decide to do something like that again
The new Alpine heads seem to have features similar to a DSP. A DSP is almost last on my list of audio upgrades if ever. 1. Amped sub - check. 2. Front door and dash speaker replacement - check. 3. Head unit. 4. Rear door speakers. 5. 4ch amp (if necessary).
We aren't all sound engineers. lol You could do a whole series of videos on tuning. Starting after installation to matching gains, setting mic calibration, system recording loudness, etc. Haven't seen anyone put together a comprehensive series like that yet.
Excellent point it seemed like all of these channels which I love by the way always say you need to get a DSP but not one video on their process of using it
I recently finished up my sound system with a Kicker Key 200.4 and Kicker KS speakers. The auto EQ/Processing is honestly great for the size of the amp. It completely transforms the front sound stage. I do have the time delay off as I always have passengers and I personally sounds off to me in the driver seat. I do wish there was a dial instead of dip switches for the high pass filter. I have it on stock HU and at 80hz.
In a car environment where there are so many variables that can change the sound, a DSP is a necessity when going for SQ! Being able to tune your speakers one by one is very powerful, something many people don't take into consideration.
Hey Mark i want you to dig into this 2023 Durango i just brought. It has 10 speaker system that sounds ok but with your knowledge i know you can make it sound awesome. Im ready when your ready. I love this channel keep up the great work.
It's true that it has its advantages, but the quality ones that will really make a big difference are too expensive, and A lot of us work according to a budget and it's not that high, so DSP is last on the list, I'd be happy to know about good DSPs without breaking the bank.
I thought for many years that the headunit was enough. I picked up a Pioneer 80PRS several years ago and while, that headunit once dialed, sounded amazing I hit the limit of what it could do and decided to take the DSP plunge. You mentioned cost which was a big factor so I did go with the Dayton408. It isn't the most recommended, but for the features it provides at a $160 price point I was extrememly happy. I also got Dayton's calibrated mic and have not regretted it. I got creative with the 8 channels and it is truly night and day from using just the head unit.
itsalwaysfriday9766 My first DSP was the Dayton Audio 408 and I always had problems with it adding noise even though I had done the big 4 upgrade and all grounds were tested to ensure below .5 ohm resistance. I never could get rid of the noise completely but I got it quited down a lot by stripping about a 12" piece of 22 gauge copper wire and wrapped it around each one of the 8 output rca fittings then removed a screw from the DSP case on each side and attached both ends of the wire by replacing the screws. I really liked the functionality of the Dayton Audio 408 and that I could tune it on the go with my phone through the bluetooth. The Audiocontrol DM-810 I replaced it with requires a bluetooth dongle(sold separately) that costs about $150
One dealbreaker for me: having to run Windows OS to install firmware. AudioControl has a Mac version of DM Smart, but it’s reportedly not as good as the Windows version (per a Reddit thread, possibly incorrect or outdated.) I’m not going to buy a Mac just to run DM Smart, and it’s not possible to upload DSP firmware via the iOS or Android apps over Bluetooth. I don’t want to install Microsh1t on my beautiful Linux machine. I seriously doubt DM Smart, JL Tun, or Audiotec-Fischer’s DSP PC-Tool would work well in a sandboxed MS virtual machine. Given all the DSP headaches I decided just to get a 4 channel amp and call it done. Thanks for another great video, Mark. Your channel is #1.
Love your channel, so many great tips and tutorials! The info is usually very good, I would like to see more with aftermarket stereos and multiple amps and crossovers. If you could I'd like to see you test and tune with prv DSP and active crossovers because I know there are plenty of us that are on tighter budgets and would be more likely to use gear other than jl audio and audio control
@@CarAudioFabrication Thanks Mark! I look forward to your vids, and I appreciate the time you put into all of your work. I love the meticulous attention to detail!! 🎯💯
The main reason why I am interested in getting a DSP is to play music in such a way that reflects the ambiance of a social acoustical environment, I am installing a ATOTO S8 along with an ATOTO amplifier in a 2002 C5 Corvette with OEM speakers. The OEM speakers do not sound busted to me. I am the first and only owner of my Corvette, so I am very familiar with this history of the car. I want to play music and shut my eyes to see if I can simulate the sound that would come from a Church, Amphie-theater, Jazz Club, and perhaps a Canyon type surrounding. The idea is to full the mind to think the music one is experiencing sounds as if one is not sitting inside a 2 seated convertible corvette.
I think it’s all about having a solid center channel that reproduces only mono signal and your midbase and tweeters only stereo signal. This would give both left and right passenger the fake stereo Effekt. What I have learned. A two seat tune is irrelevant for passengers who have no idea what staging is.
JL Audio processors have a specific valet mode that you can actually wire to be triggered when you want. But you can always program a preset for these types of things as well. And I agree, DSP is an investment as the gear stays relevant for a long time and can easily be swapped from vehicle to vehicle.
My main reason why a DSP is almost useless is because the audio inupt in todays market is generally low quality and/or streaming. It's like putting 10 flashlights together and aiming them at one spot, then expecting the DSP to separate the lighs back out cleanly. If you are using FLAC or higher quality audio, a DSP is VERY useful. Oh, and I run nothing except KnuKoncepts in my builds since 2009. Excellent stuff.
The no that you forgot is if you have an older vehicle and are installing an aftermarket head unit that has these capabilities or at least most of them. Not everyone into car audio has newer vehicles that basically can't be changed.
for me, as I'm still pretty new to the premium car audio system thing, with PC hardware, networking, servers, and programming background, as well as people accessible for help with it, it's just about budget, I simply can't get a DSP yet, but I'm pretty sure I'll get the TwK 88, as I want at least the ability to daily tuned sound, and "go crazy" tune for the time that's worth to have, which also means that daily tuned will be front+sub, and "go crazy" is more like SPL tuning with front+rear+sub, which would be way quicker to change between with a simple button, than getting into the head units settings, go to sound, scroll down, then toggle off rear speakers, and go back to Android Auto, which is how I'll do it untill I can afford the DSP xD
DSPs are cool. Most people I know dont even know how to set a EQ correctly let alone a DSP. Very few understand a DSP or are willing to learn one. If your really into SQ get one. Keep it simple if you just wanna hear the music. Feel it? DSP it!
When i went from a standard pioneer head unit to a dsp from audio dynamics which has 8 channels of output with complete custom Bluetooth with the app downloaded on my phone which has completely changed my hole outlook on control especially that im using a fully active 3 way setup its night and day!
Suggestion request: I have a Lexus GX470 Mark Levinson system. From what I understand, the speakers are its weak spot, and are readily upgradable. What would you replace them with for max driver EQ experience? Let's assume a sizable budget for 8 ohm speakers.
Both my headunits, Pioneer DEH-80PRS (10 yeas old) and Kenwood KMM-356BT, got all these features built in, the only problem being just 6-channels to work with being a bit limiting.
Limited bands of EQ. Lacking flexibility. No all pass filters. No multiple tunes. Limited channels. There are many downfalls that make them not good enough for what is needed for a truly full tuned system.
@@CarAudioFabrication the Kenwood does have a bit of a limited EQ, the Pioneer doesn't tho. No multiple tune is true, depending on what you need it for, I can quick change time alignment. Both have all pass filters for a fully active system.
Yes. A DSP is definitely right for me. I have a lil SPL setup but running a mono block and 2 channel amps require a Y adapter bc I'm running a Kenwood with 3 pairs of preamp outputs. I want everything separate so I'm looking into the JL Audio unit. I really want the audiocontrol but it's out of stock everywhere I looked. I do like the Dayton as well, especially at the price point. I'm running a Brazilian amp to my subs and it doesn't give me enough cutoff even with the crossover slopes on my head unit I can still hear a little bit of vocal coming out of my subwoofers. I think a DSP will solve this. Your thoughts?
I seriously considered a dsp for my current system when I was planning it. My concern was that the signal outputs of the dsp’s that I looked at (even Audiocontrol) had lower voltages, lower s/n ratios, and higher distortion percentages than the mostly analog set up I went with. I could not make the investment into a good dsp and take the risk of being unsatisfied with the result. I can live with less than ideal alignment or equalization more than I can live with less dynamic range or more distortion.
Local installer is sorta pushing me to install a DSP, I am very 'old school', I like the 'analog sound' and I think you know what I mean by that; I do like listening to music in my car as I do at home, I have listened to systems tuned with DSP and yes, they sound great but, I feel something is lacking, there is 'a hole' in the music, does not 'sound full' ... So, I went 'let's meet halfway and got a DSP that is still analog enough that I actually enjoy the sound more ... 4 Speakers, 1 sub, 2 amps ... No more, no less So, yes, DSP is not 100% for me, but, had to compromise due to space in vehicle.
I had done all of the basics with running my 3Sixty.3 but I wish that Rockford Fosgate would come out with a refreshed version (not DSR1). The Hexlix DSPs kind of hit that mark. I wish I could justify having and learning them all.
Dsp is awesome. But isn't necessary. Those of us that like to have high sq systems yes. Now most head units have time alignment and good crossovers with eq built in. A line driver is a must like audio control. Clean good noise resistant rca cables, sound deadening and good equipment is key. Skimping on ofc versus cca . A 5v vs a 2v is key. Does a dsp give more control yes. You can have an awesome aftermarket system without one. Pioneer head units have all this bulit in like the single din digital media only unit. It has a 31 band eq with individual output rca crossovers, time aligmnent and level controls
Head units having the "same" control as a DSP is actually kind of a myth, addressed in the video. We have to be careful about saying that because it's not the same. Also keep in mind, it's less and less feasible to even be able to replace the head unit anymore.
In some cars yes. I agree if you cannot replace the factory unit I whole heartedly agree. People like you and I can tell the difference. For us the 700 for that dsp is more than worth it. You can still have a great system without one do you agree? The sph db10 from Pioneer was the best head unit I used
@@CarAudioFabricationI have the factory Sync 2 and only one jl 1500 monoblock amp for my subs. I am thinking I really do not need it and it sounds good. Getting ready to add a second battery in the truck with a smart isolator
Would sure appreciate a shallow behind the seat box for the space 12, or a review so it can be compared to the JL TW3 please. I’ve got the audiocontrol amps waiting to build my reg cab enclosure. Leaning towards the PNW components also.
I upgraded all speakers in my '14 Lexus IS350 F Sport with Mark Levinson system. Now the Rockford Fosgate speakers barely have sound. Local shop said I need to buy something with a DSP for $600ish. JL Audio. Then another $600ish for install. Smh. Saving up to get it done.
I have a aftermarket dual din android media player. I feed all 6 to a 2 DSP's . Feeds 3x 4ch amps on one and a 8 monoblocks on the other. I have active 4 way setup on my dash / front doors. And 2way setup at the wall. The 8 8k mono blocks feed a 4th order wall with 8 15" each with its own sealed chamber. I use time delays to focus the bass to the front and set stage it an spl rig but I have reasonably good Sq as well
I have an Android unit as well (Joying) and was thinking of running the optical out to a DSP. Which DSP did you go with? Are you using analog inputs? Was the extra piece of equipment and time worth it?
Can a DSP fix audio compression out of a factory head unit? An example is when you turn the volume up to a certain point and and the signal sounds like it's going MONO, or it "levels out".
Should I get my Sony 5 channel ES Amplifier with the DSP? I plan was speaker components in doors 6.5 and tweeters in dash, an ES 10’ Sub. Sone kind if 5 1/4 speakers in rear panels (fit is challenging, might have a Polk 522 2 ways option). 01 Cabrio.
Would I love a dsp in my truck? Absolutely. Would I make it sound worse than without? Definitely. I don't even have the option to install a dsp and have an audio shop tune it for me. All the audio shops around me will not touch anything they didnt install, and I'm not paying for a full install when im fully capable of everything. else
I have an Audi that uses a fibre optic signal to the factory amp. Is there a decoder you recommend or have seen good reviews on? Could you possibly make a video on optical audio signals?
I've worked on and tuned all of my vehicles so far - but for the first time I'm driving a hybrid. What's pushing me away from a DSP now is that they almost ALWAYS output low level, and throw away the already very limited power the unremovable stock app is consuming, then need to be amplified again. How would you tune a Hybrid system that's limited to 30 Amps for the Entire audio system?
I am planning on using the DM-608 to run a t-1500-1bd and a t400-4. Door speakers are Infinity Reference 6.5" components running passive crossovers and Infinity Kappa 463XF 4x6" which have their own crossovers, I think. I'm not sure if I need the DSP for those but for the sub I think it's worth having. Wondering if the Rockford T2 13" will be okay under powered with my amp- although the birth sheet says 1836w at 1 ohm which is what I will be wiring it to. I noticed you ran yours with 1500w in your video so I assume it's okay. I will also be going to you for a subwoofer enclosure design very soon. Thanks for all the knowledge!
I'm wondering whats best, to go for a high quality hi-res headunit or keep my chinese android screen and plug a dsp. The rest of the system is a kenwood excelon 5 channel amp, a focal set and a kicker cvr 12 su, any thoughts?
Good morning I have a 2018 Ford F-150 I did System at a Shop I thought was good upgraded all speakers JL audio plus stealth box underneath the seat arc audio EQ also added a symmetry I listen to a lot of Mexican music also RNB Old school and rap I have became friends with a shop owner that tells me that my system would sound way better if I take the arc audio EQ out and add a fix with tweak or rock for Fosgate DSR one you think I agree it could sound better the only problem is I like to control my sounds he did say that if it was done right you wouldn’t have to adjust the settings what do you think please help
Hi If my aftermarket Chinese andriod head unit comes with dsp already, do i still need to get dsp amp? Should i or not? Can u have too much dsp? Thank you
Yes definitely get a Dsp but make sure it’s a good one other wise your system will sound worse. I recently unplugged my audio control Dm810 Dsp and I’m running straight amplifiers and using the amp crossovers and it sounds way better. The AC amos sound great and have good output. The DSP not so much.
@@Turbogto_guy yeah I’ve heard factory system that sounded better then the audio control Dsp. The amps have good amounts of power for the price but I wouldn’t recommend the dsp
@@mildaudiophile3879 yea I used to install professionally. For about a decade. And I never liked audio control because it never sounded better with any of their products. We carried them in stock for a short time. I’m surprised they are still in business. There’s so many more options that have cleaner sound. I relate audio control to about the level of power acoustic.
Hey Mark i have a 2011 Mitsubishi outlander Sport with the Rockford fosgate system and 10 in sub! I have a Kicker Comp Rt 12 i want to add to it i figure just tap into the sub wiring for a signal. Is a Dsp applicable for this or should i be fine as tap in and go
Hey! I have an Alpine R amp powering a ported 12 inch Alpine R sub. Also 4 Alpine speakers with a 4 channel amp. My head unit is an iDoing that looks great on my STI. can I still install a DSP even if all my system is already in the car?? Is it really worth it!?
i’ve recently installed a 4 channel amp on a honda accord 2023 and i’ve been getting white noise or static but it doesn’t get louder as the rpm goes up so i went to a shop and told me to get the dsp so they can tune it. will this fix my issue?
I replaced a dying Audison Bit One with a JL Twk D8 and transferred all time delay and crossover settings and have now adjusted the EQ to my liking, is there much benefit to getting it professionally re-tuned?
So would a DSP hooked up to a decent ported 12 or 8 in my 17 Cruze with Bose potentially restore the bass signal for that sub if I tap into one of the factory speakers? I can tell that they have a heavy low pass and I fear nothing will be good enough to restore the low end I want for that new sub
If the signal isn't there in the first place it can be created from nothing. I would think an aftermarket head unit solution would be available for your vehicle
@@CarAudioFabrication unfortunately the Bose system in my Cruze premier is a extremely complicated system. With the climate controls being integrated in the screen and everything. My other option is tapping the factory 5 inch sub as well but fear the heavy eq on it will be too strong to correct to get some more sub frequencies out of it for an aftermarket woofer to shine
Factory subs are pretty much useless in my opinion. I would remove it. Add a Separate monoblock amp and subs with amp control knob is all you need. Looks like this device or a good line in converter for rca will be the perfect add
I have a Nissan Rogue 2021 and the sound is very bad. They put Bose speaker inside but I think the maine problem is the equalizer of the vehicule with almost nothing to do with it. Someone told me to put à DSP to fix that problem. Is it a good solution for a original sound system of a véhicule?
I'd be interested to get some opinions about the Sony XAV-9000ES. It seems to offer many (if not all) of the same options: 8 band paramedic EQ per speaker, time alignment, crossover, etc. Can this replace a DSP, or would a dedicated DSP still be superior?
Thanks for all the info. What are your thoughts about adding a DSP after a AP4? It's got 6 RCA outs, and im running a 4 channel with 2 componants with crossover, and 2 rear coaxials, along with a mono sub amp. Is it a worth while investment and I'm a bit confused on the number of in and out RCA's I need...channel summing and all that..
For an F150, you did a project for your pop that involved a rack system in the cab of his truck made of ABS. Do you recommend a dsp if using separate sub amp and different head unit and amps to power the doors?
Built in DSPs on HU's are great. Just remember that you only have 1 pair of RCAs per Front and Rear which limits your parameters of setting crossover/gain points for multiple speakers.
I have yet to see a single head unit that can truly match the performance of a standalone DSP. The head units you guys are mentioning only have a global equalizer at most, which is specifically mentioned in this video, that's not the same thing as an independent EQ on every channel, also looks like the head unit EQ is graphic, which lacks the adjustability truly needed. Also again, even some of the head units that might have individual control for each channel, only have it for 6 channels at most. Standalone DSP's give us more channels to work with for a more complex system.
Heya, I have a Subaru legacy 2016 3.6R with the hardon kardon Soundsystem in it. I'm going to replace my headunit with a kenwood DMX9021S because it's going faulty. What would you recommend to add to my Soundsystem to make it better if I want to keep the hardon karmon speaker and amplifier in the car as is please? I basically wanne keep the sound as is and maybe a bit later add a bit bigger subwoofer. Please help.
I'm of the opinion buying a seperate DSP and connecting it to your amp via RCA cables instead of fiber optics (Toslink) defeats the purpose. (Only a couple of brands of amps have a digital input). Because you are going from a digital signal back to analog signal. So, buy an amp that has the DSP built in.
I only have one monoblock amp for two subs. JL RD 1500… I am thinking it would not be useful because I only have the one amp. Any thoughts ? I just have a simple line converter for rca using one rear speaker.
I have a big system that’s about 55,000 Watts I have 4 12ks taramps amps 6 800.4 taramps. Amps. And I was wondering what cross over or DSP from audio control I should by to run all my mids and highs subs bass is going from back of the head unit to a bass knob to my sub amps so it many only for my vocals and highs any advice, or any suggestions on which ones I should go with thank you in advance. Any advice would be much appreciated.
I have a Kenwood 809S which has some DSP features built into it (EQ, Time Alignment, Front/read/sub crossovers) . I guess what Im wondering is how much of a difference can an external dedicated DSP actually make in a case like this. And also, how would you get these systems to interact properly? My head unit has crossovers, my JL Audop 900/5 has crossovers... and a dedicated DSP has crossovers. How the hell do you set these up so theyre not all fighting one another? And... are there any stereo installers who actually do the acoustic tuning when you have all these components? How do you find one who does it right? Every shop Ive been to just wings it - max being using a volt meter to check voltages. Ive yet to find a place that actually goes the full length when properly tuning this kind of hardware.
I have a 2020 Supra where I’ve added an ACM-300.1(?) and a 12” Kicker downfiring sub. I’ve adjusted everything to where, imo, it sounds phenomenal. Except… the factory “subs”, which I left connected. I want to remove some of the lower frequencies to the OEM “subs” and have them respond more like midrange, how can I do this? Would a dsp help in this situation or do I need some kind of bass blocker / crossover?
But new headunits have built in DSP's that let me control every channel independently so why does everyone say get a DSP when my subs Sound system sounds fine? I'm also not an audiophile so I can't help but wonder if I would be hard-pressed to even notice a difference between having a DSP and not having one.
Electricity travels through wire at about 90% the speed of light. 670,616,629 miles per hour. Yeah... not going to matter how long the wires are in a car
Most of the name brand head units have alot of dsp tuning built in. Its limited but if your car or budget allows for a head unit upgrade, that's one of the cheapest upgrades you can do, in my opinion. It's the controller of your system.
I have replaced the head unit in my vehicle and added a subwoofer amplifier, a 4-channel amplifier, and a PRV crossover. Still, I am unable to rid of this annoying nails-on-chalkboard tone from certain notes like some female vocals or piano notes.. it haunts me! The head unit, being a cheaper android unit, it likely to blame, but there's limited options for a MK3 Focus. Would a DSP help me out? I have some budget NVX components on the way, but I do not want to keep throwing money at this issue.
What's the difference between a DSP and a head unit that has it built in? On my headunit I can control EQ for each speaker individually and I can set the time alignment on it as well. Would it still be worth it to get a proper DSP in my situation?
This is the only thing that is prevented me from spending 600 bucks on one my head unit has all of those basic time alignment and crossover features built in
Hey, I have a question and hope you can help. I’ve been having a static/high frequency noise coming from my front speakers for a while now, and finally took the time today to try and diagnose the issue. I think it’s because I ran the speaker wire alongside a factory harness, but I’m unable to run the wire any another way. Is there something you can recommend to help eliminate the noise?
are you aware of any stand alone de-eq boxes that are priced less than a fix86? there are so few DSP's out there that can de-eq automatically. really only bit one, audison, and audio control. personally i like audison but the price is just too high for most installs.
I have bought 2 amplifiers one for doors and one for subs. I also have 4 door speakers and two subs. If i get a DSP do I need a crossover? Im confused help please.
Hey Mark, first-time/long-time, got a new truck with my same system and lost all the midrange. Long story short, this same system of Type-R door components F&R and JL10W7 were installed in a previous truck last year and sounded amazing, now I’m $3k into the install on my 2022 F450 with B&O sound and it sounds worse than stock. Highs crisp, still got bass but the doors have no mids at all!! Would this be a signal problem from my factory HU that a dsp can correct?? For reference, factory sub and amp are removed; full sound deadening treatment. I’m hesitant to think it’s the shop or the install but idk man😢😢
I want a DSP because I'm building a system in my van. Everything bad in a car is magnified in larger vehicle. Many more speakers. I'm gonna run 8 channels
I’ve recently discovered a reason not to get a DSP: when you are trying to do Hi-Res audio and discover that the DSP only has a frequency of 20Hz-24kHz.
Think of playing a 48khz or up file as essentially being equivalent to super sampling. A 4k image converted to 1080p will retain a much greater amount of detail than a native 1080p image.
You don't have to get the 7 to 8 hundred dollar DSP's either, as a matter of fact I have a cheap hundred dollar DSP that works great!!! I was running a DM-608 and not long after I switched back to my cheap one. IMHO is it FAR batter than the Audiocontrol I had in pretty much every category, ESPECIALLY the android app for each DSP respectfully. The app for the DM-608 is complete and utter trash and for me just that would be enough to scrap the DM-608, never mind all the other headaches.
What's the model name of the hundred dollar one? I don't have $500+ to spend on one, but if I could find a decent one for only $100 or so that's alot more affordable
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There are many reasons to get a DSP. One of my main reasons is I need RCA outputs to run to my amps. Now there are Line Level Converters but after doing a lot of research I found they do not convert the signal near as well as the DSP I got. They introduce noise and sometimes out right alter the signals. Great video.
The geek in me makes me want to run out and get a DSP. The realist in me knows I probably don't have the desire or dedication to actually learn how to put it to good use.
Most people I know don't know how to tune or tweak their DSP's so they actually sound worse than the previous passive setup. 95% of the "audio enthusiasts" don't need one nor do they have the time and dedication to maximize it's potential.
I just installed an alpine pxe c60 with a mic and pc using the auto tune with some small adjustment, setting the crossovers and slopes. Was time consuming but well worth it.
Some car audio on the market makes it easier with built in DSP in their amplifiers. A great blessing in purchasing less audio equipment.
For sure! Can usually save a little bit, and not nearly as complex wiring. Space savings too. :)
My first DSP is a Dayton Audio DSP 408 and so far, I love the flexibility!
How's the ground noise on that unit? I hear that's a common issue with it in vehicles
@@ch3ncerpau148 i don't have much ground noise, I'd need to get measurements... yet to still do
I added a miniDSP 4X2HD to my desktop sound system and it massively improved my overall sound quality and gave me a significant improvement to the flexibility of my system. I will definitely be adding a miniDSP car DSP into my vehicle soon.
Ohh, and that's why my audio system sounded little left biased on my previous car - it was the untuned signal and the signal delay was not applied to the left (driver) side. Had I gone with DSP in my case, I could've made my audio system sound even better and way more balanced. Taking notes from this video if I decide to do something like that again
The new Alpine heads seem to have features similar to a DSP. A DSP is almost last on my list of audio upgrades if ever. 1. Amped sub - check. 2. Front door and dash speaker replacement - check. 3. Head unit. 4. Rear door speakers. 5. 4ch amp (if necessary).
Can't get that "center stage" sound without dsp.... you really don't know what you're missing until you get 1 ! Thank me later
We aren't all sound engineers. lol
You could do a whole series of videos on tuning.
Starting after installation to matching gains, setting mic calibration, system recording loudness, etc.
Haven't seen anyone put together a comprehensive series like that yet.
Excellent point it seemed like all of these channels which I love by the way always say you need to get a DSP but not one video on their process of using it
I grabbed a black friday deal on a VX700/i from Crutchfield, I cannot wait to click buttons and change tunes! So cool to be able to do that!
I recently finished up my sound system with a Kicker Key 200.4 and Kicker KS speakers. The auto EQ/Processing is honestly great for the size of the amp. It completely transforms the front sound stage. I do have the time delay off as I always have passengers and I personally sounds off to me in the driver seat. I do wish there was a dial instead of dip switches for the high pass filter. I have it on stock HU and at 80hz.
After having several DSPs, I wouldn't want to have a system without one!
In a car environment where there are so many variables that can change the sound, a DSP is a necessity when going for SQ! Being able to tune your speakers one by one is very powerful, something many people don't take into consideration.
Some of the best advice on the RUclips platform
Hey Mark i want you to dig into this 2023 Durango i just brought. It has 10 speaker system that sounds ok but with your knowledge i know you can make it sound awesome. Im ready when your ready. I love this channel keep up the great work.
It's true that it has its advantages, but the quality ones that will really make a big difference are too expensive, and A lot of us work according to a budget and it's not that high, so DSP is last on the list, I'd be happy to know about good DSPs without breaking the bank.
The default inexpensive DSP is the Dayton 408. It's not the best dsp, but it does work
DSP s make a huge difference Either of these two are highly recommend. I personally runs twk-88. also smaller footprint than AC for mounting.
yeah, im never gonna do a install again without a dsp, it really opens up a new world
I thought for many years that the headunit was enough. I picked up a Pioneer 80PRS several years ago and while, that headunit once dialed, sounded amazing I hit the limit of what it could do and decided to take the DSP plunge. You mentioned cost which was a big factor so I did go with the Dayton408. It isn't the most recommended, but for the features it provides at a $160 price point I was extrememly happy. I also got Dayton's calibrated mic and have not regretted it. I got creative with the 8 channels and it is truly night and day from using just the head unit.
itsalwaysfriday9766
My first DSP was the Dayton Audio 408 and I always had problems with it adding noise even though I had done the big 4 upgrade and all grounds were tested to ensure below .5 ohm resistance. I never could get rid of the noise completely but I got it quited down a lot by stripping about a 12" piece of 22 gauge copper wire and wrapped it around each one of the 8 output rca fittings then removed a screw from the DSP case on each side and attached both ends of the wire by replacing the screws. I really liked the functionality of the Dayton Audio 408 and that I could tune it on the go with my phone through the bluetooth. The Audiocontrol DM-810 I replaced it with requires a bluetooth dongle(sold separately) that costs about $150
One dealbreaker for me: having to run Windows OS to install firmware. AudioControl has a Mac version of DM Smart, but it’s reportedly not as good as the Windows version (per a Reddit thread, possibly incorrect or outdated.) I’m not going to buy a Mac just to run DM Smart, and it’s not possible to upload DSP firmware via the iOS or Android apps over Bluetooth.
I don’t want to install Microsh1t on my beautiful Linux machine. I seriously doubt DM Smart, JL Tun, or Audiotec-Fischer’s DSP PC-Tool would work well in a sandboxed MS virtual machine.
Given all the DSP headaches I decided just to get a 4 channel amp and call it done.
Thanks for another great video, Mark. Your channel is #1.
Love your channel, so many great tips and tutorials! The info is usually very good, I would like to see more with aftermarket stereos and multiple amps and crossovers. If you could I'd like to see you test and tune with prv DSP and active crossovers because I know there are plenty of us that are on tighter budgets and would be more likely to use gear other than jl audio and audio control
Thanks Mark!!
Informative and thorough as ever! 👌🏾
You know we’re waiting for the completion of the four 12’s enclosure project! 😎
Coming soon! It takes a ton of time to document everything on camera, appreciate you watching!
@@CarAudioFabrication Thanks Mark!
I look forward to your vids, and I appreciate the time you put into all of your work. I love the meticulous attention to detail!! 🎯💯
The main reason why I am interested in getting a DSP is to play music in such a way that reflects the ambiance of a social acoustical environment, I am installing a ATOTO S8 along with an ATOTO amplifier in a 2002 C5 Corvette with OEM speakers. The OEM speakers do not sound busted to me. I am the first and only owner of my Corvette, so I am very familiar with this history of the car. I want to play music and shut my eyes to see if I can simulate the sound that would come from a Church, Amphie-theater, Jazz Club, and perhaps a Canyon type surrounding. The idea is to full the mind to think the music one is experiencing sounds as if one is not sitting inside a 2 seated convertible corvette.
We need a two seat tune how to video and what to expect of it ,i can imagine the rabbit hole is way deeper than it looks! thanks for the videos Mark.
I think it’s all about having a solid center channel that reproduces only mono signal and your midbase and tweeters only stereo signal. This would give both left and right passenger the fake stereo Effekt. What I have learned. A two seat tune is irrelevant for passengers who have no idea what staging is.
BUDGET!? Screw the budget! It's an investment. 😆😆
I didn't know about the valet mode and I like your CAF sign in the background. 👍🏽✌🏾
JL Audio processors have a specific valet mode that you can actually wire to be triggered when you want. But you can always program a preset for these types of things as well. And I agree, DSP is an investment as the gear stays relevant for a long time and can easily be swapped from vehicle to vehicle.
Wow, very informative as Usual!
This guy needs to start and audio school. He is way to smart
My main reason why a DSP is almost useless is because the audio inupt in todays market is generally low quality and/or streaming. It's like putting 10 flashlights together and aiming them at one spot, then expecting the DSP to separate the lighs back out cleanly. If you are using FLAC or higher quality audio, a DSP is VERY useful.
Oh, and I run nothing except KnuKoncepts in my builds since 2009. Excellent stuff.
The no that you forgot is if you have an older vehicle and are installing an aftermarket head unit that has these capabilities or at least most of them. Not everyone into car audio has newer vehicles that basically can't be changed.
Thanks for saving my money on dsp
I wonder if you could review some lower priced DSPs like the taramps to see if it’s worth the money
Can a DSP replace a Line output converter?
If the DSP has hi level inputs I believe so that it can
for me, as I'm still pretty new to the premium car audio system thing, with PC hardware, networking, servers, and programming background, as well as people accessible for help with it, it's just about budget, I simply can't get a DSP yet, but I'm pretty sure I'll get the TwK 88, as I want at least the ability to daily tuned sound, and "go crazy" tune for the time that's worth to have, which also means that daily tuned will be front+sub, and "go crazy" is more like SPL tuning with front+rear+sub, which would be way quicker to change between with a simple button, than getting into the head units settings, go to sound, scroll down, then toggle off rear speakers, and go back to Android Auto, which is how I'll do it untill I can afford the DSP xD
DSPs are cool. Most people I know dont even know how to set a EQ correctly let alone a DSP. Very few understand a DSP or are willing to learn one. If your really into SQ get one. Keep it simple if you just wanna hear the music. Feel it? DSP it!
When i went from a standard pioneer head unit to a dsp from audio dynamics which has 8 channels of output with complete custom Bluetooth with the app downloaded on my phone which has completely changed my hole outlook on control especially that im using a fully active 3 way setup its night and day!
Definitely a ton more control. Thanks for watching
Suggestion request: I have a Lexus GX470 Mark Levinson system. From what I understand, the speakers are its weak spot, and are readily upgradable. What would you replace them with for max driver EQ experience? Let's assume a sizable budget for 8 ohm speakers.
I've had mine about four years. I would say if you like Sq get one.
Both my headunits, Pioneer DEH-80PRS (10 yeas old) and Kenwood KMM-356BT, got all these features built in, the only problem being just 6-channels to work with being a bit limiting.
Limited bands of EQ. Lacking flexibility. No all pass filters. No multiple tunes. Limited channels. There are many downfalls that make them not good enough for what is needed for a truly full tuned system.
@@CarAudioFabrication the Kenwood does have a bit of a limited EQ, the Pioneer doesn't tho. No multiple tune is true, depending on what you need it for, I can quick change time alignment. Both have all pass filters for a fully active system.
That's not what all pass filters are.
Yes. A DSP is definitely right for me. I have a lil SPL setup but running a mono block and 2 channel amps require a Y adapter bc I'm running a Kenwood with 3 pairs of preamp outputs. I want everything separate so I'm looking into the JL Audio unit. I really want the audiocontrol but it's out of stock everywhere I looked. I do like the Dayton as well, especially at the price point. I'm running a Brazilian amp to my subs and it doesn't give me enough cutoff even with the crossover slopes on my head unit I can still hear a little bit of vocal coming out of my subwoofers. I think a DSP will solve this. Your thoughts?
I seriously considered a dsp for my current system when I was planning it. My concern was that the signal outputs of the dsp’s that I looked at (even Audiocontrol) had lower voltages, lower s/n ratios, and higher distortion percentages than the mostly analog set up I went with. I could not make the investment into a good dsp and take the risk of being unsatisfied with the result. I can live with less than ideal alignment or equalization more than I can live with less dynamic range or more distortion.
Local installer is sorta pushing me to install a DSP, I am very 'old school', I like the 'analog sound' and I think you know what I mean by that; I do like listening to music in my car as I do at home, I have listened to systems tuned with DSP and yes, they sound great but, I feel something is lacking, there is 'a hole' in the music, does not 'sound full' ... So, I went 'let's meet halfway and got a DSP that is still analog enough that I actually enjoy the sound more ... 4 Speakers, 1 sub, 2 amps ... No more, no less
So, yes, DSP is not 100% for me, but, had to compromise due to space in vehicle.
I had done all of the basics with running my 3Sixty.3 but I wish that Rockford Fosgate would come out with a refreshed version (not DSR1). The Hexlix DSPs kind of hit that mark. I wish I could justify having and learning them all.
Dsp is awesome. But isn't necessary. Those of us that like to have high sq systems yes. Now most head units have time alignment and good crossovers with eq built in. A line driver is a must like audio control. Clean good noise resistant rca cables, sound deadening and good equipment is key. Skimping on ofc versus cca . A 5v vs a 2v is key. Does a dsp give more control yes. You can have an awesome aftermarket system without one. Pioneer head units have all this bulit in like the single din digital media only unit. It has a 31 band eq with individual output rca crossovers, time aligmnent and level controls
Head units having the "same" control as a DSP is actually kind of a myth, addressed in the video. We have to be careful about saying that because it's not the same. Also keep in mind, it's less and less feasible to even be able to replace the head unit anymore.
In some cars yes. I agree if you cannot replace the factory unit I whole heartedly agree. People like you and I can tell the difference. For us the 700 for that dsp is more than worth it. You can still have a great system without one do you agree? The sph db10 from Pioneer was the best head unit I used
@@CarAudioFabricationI have the factory Sync 2 and only one jl 1500 monoblock amp for my subs. I am thinking I really do not need it and it sounds good. Getting ready to add a second battery in the truck with a smart isolator
I don't think my system is expensive enough or quality enough to deserve a DSP 😂 but it sounds nice
Thank you very much
Would sure appreciate a shallow behind the seat box for the space 12, or a review so it can be compared to the JL TW3 please. I’ve got the audiocontrol amps waiting to build my reg cab enclosure. Leaning towards the PNW components also.
I upgraded all speakers in my '14 Lexus IS350 F Sport with Mark Levinson system. Now the Rockford Fosgate speakers barely have sound. Local shop said I need to buy something with a DSP for $600ish. JL Audio. Then another $600ish for install. Smh. Saving up to get it done.
I bought a dsp before i knew my kenwood had a dsp. I really had a hard time and sold it. Later relized why it sounded like shyt
I have a aftermarket dual din android media player.
I feed all 6 to a 2 DSP's .
Feeds 3x 4ch amps on one and a 8 monoblocks on the other.
I have active 4 way setup on my dash / front doors. And 2way setup at the wall.
The 8 8k mono blocks feed a 4th order wall with 8 15" each with its own sealed chamber.
I use time delays to focus the bass to the front and set stage it an spl rig but I have reasonably good Sq as well
I have an Android unit as well (Joying) and was thinking of running the optical out to a DSP. Which DSP did you go with? Are you using analog inputs? Was the extra piece of equipment and time worth it?
I have a brand new unopened audio control DM 810. Ready to be installed and tuned but part of me wants to get the new JL DSP. Thoughts ?
Mini c-dsp 8x12 with Dirac live does auto tune. Everyone needs a dsp.
Can a DSP fix audio compression out of a factory head unit? An example is when you turn the volume up to a certain point and and the signal sounds like it's going MONO, or it "levels out".
Hey Mark I was wondering what is the best RCA wires to buy
Should I get my Sony 5 channel ES Amplifier with the DSP? I plan was speaker components in doors 6.5 and tweeters in dash, an ES 10’ Sub. Sone kind if 5 1/4 speakers in rear panels (fit is challenging, might have a Polk 522 2 ways option). 01 Cabrio.
Would I love a dsp in my truck? Absolutely. Would I make it sound worse than without? Definitely.
I don't even have the option to install a dsp and have an audio shop tune it for me. All the audio shops around me will not touch anything they didnt install, and I'm not paying for a full install when im fully capable of everything. else
I have an Audi that uses a fibre optic signal to the factory amp. Is there a decoder you recommend or have seen good reviews on? Could you possibly make a video on optical audio signals?
I've worked on and tuned all of my vehicles so far - but for the first time I'm driving a hybrid.
What's pushing me away from a DSP now is that they almost ALWAYS output low level, and throw away the already very limited power the unremovable stock app is consuming, then need to be amplified again.
How would you tune a Hybrid system that's limited to 30 Amps for the Entire audio system?
Do I need an external DSP if I bought a audio control amp with built-in DSP?
I am planning on using the DM-608 to run a t-1500-1bd and a t400-4. Door speakers are Infinity Reference 6.5" components running passive crossovers and Infinity Kappa 463XF 4x6" which have their own crossovers, I think. I'm not sure if I need the DSP for those but for the sub I think it's worth having. Wondering if the Rockford T2 13" will be okay under powered with my amp- although the birth sheet says 1836w at 1 ohm which is what I will be wiring it to. I noticed you ran yours with 1500w in your video so I assume it's okay. I will also be going to you for a subwoofer enclosure design very soon. Thanks for all the knowledge!
Is DSP and stand aloce crossovers are the same? thank you!
I'm wondering whats best, to go for a high quality hi-res headunit or keep my chinese android screen and plug a dsp. The rest of the system is a kenwood excelon 5 channel amp, a focal set and a kicker cvr 12 su, any thoughts?
Good morning I have a 2018 Ford F-150 I did System at a Shop I thought was good upgraded all speakers JL audio plus stealth box underneath the seat arc audio EQ also added a symmetry I listen to a lot of Mexican music also RNB Old school and rap I have became friends with a shop owner that tells me that my system would sound way better if I take the arc audio EQ out and add a fix with tweak or rock for Fosgate DSR one you think I agree it could sound better the only problem is I like to control my sounds he did say that if it was done right you wouldn’t have to adjust the settings what do you think please help
How would the settings be on the head unit, would they be set to “0” and then everything done on the dsp?
I have 2023 Nissan rogue s factory radio what speakers and subwoofer you recommend
Hi If my aftermarket Chinese andriod head unit comes with dsp already, do i still need to get dsp amp? Should i or not? Can u have too much dsp? Thank you
Yes definitely get a Dsp but make sure it’s a good one other wise your system will sound worse. I recently unplugged my audio control Dm810 Dsp and I’m running straight amplifiers and using the amp crossovers and it sounds way better. The AC amos sound great and have good output. The DSP not so much.
Well unfortunately you found out first hand that audio control is over priced junk.
@@Turbogto_guy yeah I’ve heard factory system that sounded better then the audio control Dsp. The amps have good amounts of power for the price but I wouldn’t recommend the dsp
@@mildaudiophile3879 yea I used to install professionally. For about a decade. And I never liked audio control because it never sounded better with any of their products. We carried them in stock for a short time. I’m surprised they are still in business. There’s so many more options that have cleaner sound. I relate audio control to about the level of power acoustic.
Hey Mark i have a 2011 Mitsubishi outlander Sport with the Rockford fosgate system and 10 in sub! I have a Kicker Comp Rt 12 i want to add to it i figure just tap into the sub wiring for a signal. Is a Dsp applicable for this or should i be fine as tap in and go
Hey! I have an Alpine R amp powering a ported 12 inch Alpine R sub. Also 4 Alpine speakers with a 4 channel amp. My head unit is an iDoing that looks great on my STI. can I still install a DSP even if all my system is already in the car?? Is it really worth it!?
When my system has an audio processor (DSP) should I “always” stop using physical crossovers?
i’ve recently installed a 4 channel amp on a honda accord 2023 and i’ve been getting white noise or static but it doesn’t get louder as the rpm goes up so i went to a shop and told me to get the dsp so they can tune it. will this fix my issue?
I replaced a dying Audison Bit One with a JL Twk D8 and transferred all time delay and crossover settings and have now adjusted the EQ to my liking, is there much benefit to getting it professionally re-tuned?
So would a DSP hooked up to a decent ported 12 or 8 in my 17 Cruze with Bose potentially restore the bass signal for that sub if I tap into one of the factory speakers? I can tell that they have a heavy low pass and I fear nothing will be good enough to restore the low end I want for that new sub
If the signal isn't there in the first place it can be created from nothing. I would think an aftermarket head unit solution would be available for your vehicle
@@CarAudioFabrication unfortunately the Bose system in my Cruze premier is a extremely complicated system. With the climate controls being integrated in the screen and everything. My other option is tapping the factory 5 inch sub as well but fear the heavy eq on it will be too strong to correct to get some more sub frequencies out of it for an aftermarket woofer to shine
Factory subs are pretty much useless in my opinion. I would remove it. Add a Separate monoblock amp and subs with amp control knob is all you need. Looks like this device or a good line in converter for rca will be the perfect add
@@jeffreyhillery1614 getting a good signal is the problem. All the signals are heavily equalized
I have a Nissan Rogue 2021 and the sound is very bad. They put Bose speaker inside but I think the maine problem is the equalizer of the vehicule with almost nothing to do with it. Someone told me to put à DSP to fix that problem. Is it a good solution for a original sound system of a véhicule?
I'd be interested to get some opinions about the Sony XAV-9000ES. It seems to offer many (if not all) of the same options: 8 band paramedic EQ per speaker, time alignment, crossover, etc. Can this replace a DSP, or would a dedicated DSP still be superior?
Thanks for all the info. What are your thoughts about adding a DSP after a AP4? It's got 6 RCA outs, and im running a 4 channel with 2 componants with crossover, and 2 rear coaxials, along with a mono sub amp. Is it a worth while investment and I'm a bit confused on the number of in and out RCA's I need...channel summing and all that..
So is a DSP recommend on single amps too?
I am thinking no for my one monoblock amp. Looks like it will work fine. I just have good line in rca converter.
For an F150, you did a project for your pop that involved a rack system in the cab of his truck made of ABS. Do you recommend a dsp if using separate sub amp and different head unit and amps to power the doors?
What are thoughts on HU that do this. Like Kenwoods KDC-BT768HD?
Really looking forward to the reply to this.
And also the alpine halo9 ilx-f509. Great question!
Built in DSPs on HU's are great. Just remember that you only have 1 pair of RCAs per Front and Rear which limits your parameters of setting crossover/gain points for multiple speakers.
I have yet to see a single head unit that can truly match the performance of a standalone DSP. The head units you guys are mentioning only have a global equalizer at most, which is specifically mentioned in this video, that's not the same thing as an independent EQ on every channel, also looks like the head unit EQ is graphic, which lacks the adjustability truly needed. Also again, even some of the head units that might have individual control for each channel, only have it for 6 channels at most. Standalone DSP's give us more channels to work with for a more complex system.
@@CarAudioFabrication I'm running a helix dsp with my halo. Something else you gain .... A VOLUME KNOB!
Heya, I have a Subaru legacy 2016 3.6R with the hardon kardon Soundsystem in it. I'm going to replace my headunit with a kenwood DMX9021S because it's going faulty. What would you recommend to add to my Soundsystem to make it better if I want to keep the hardon karmon speaker and amplifier in the car as is please? I basically wanne keep the sound as is and maybe a bit later add a bit bigger subwoofer. Please help.
I'm of the opinion buying a seperate DSP and connecting it to your amp via RCA cables instead of fiber optics (Toslink) defeats the purpose. (Only a couple of brands of amps have a digital input). Because you are going from a digital signal back to analog signal. So, buy an amp that has the DSP built in.
I only have one monoblock amp for two subs. JL RD 1500… I am thinking it would not be useful because I only have the one amp. Any thoughts ? I just have a simple line converter for rca using one rear speaker.
I have a big system that’s about 55,000 Watts I have 4 12ks taramps amps 6 800.4 taramps. Amps. And I was wondering what cross over or DSP from audio control I should by to run all my mids and highs subs bass is going from back of the head unit to a bass knob to my sub amps so it many only for my vocals and highs any advice, or any suggestions on which ones I should go with thank you in advance. Any advice would be much appreciated.
I have a Kenwood 809S which has some DSP features built into it (EQ, Time Alignment, Front/read/sub crossovers) . I guess what Im wondering is how much of a difference can an external dedicated DSP actually make in a case like this.
And also, how would you get these systems to interact properly? My head unit has crossovers, my JL Audop 900/5 has crossovers... and a dedicated DSP has crossovers. How the hell do you set these up so theyre not all fighting one another?
And... are there any stereo installers who actually do the acoustic tuning when you have all these components? How do you find one who does it right? Every shop Ive been to just wings it - max being using a volt meter to check voltages. Ive yet to find a place that actually goes the full length when properly tuning this kind of hardware.
I have a 2020 Supra where I’ve added an ACM-300.1(?) and a 12” Kicker downfiring sub.
I’ve adjusted everything to where, imo, it sounds phenomenal. Except… the factory “subs”, which I left connected.
I want to remove some of the lower frequencies to the OEM “subs” and have them respond more like midrange, how can I do this?
Would a dsp help in this situation or do I need some kind of bass blocker / crossover?
But new headunits have built in DSP's that let me control every channel independently so why does everyone say get a DSP when my subs
Sound system sounds fine?
I'm also not an audiophile so I can't help but wonder if I would be hard-pressed to even notice a difference between having a DSP and not having one.
If all speaker wire is exactly the same length would there be a time delay ?
Electricity travels through wire at about 90% the speed of light. 670,616,629 miles per hour. Yeah... not going to matter how long the wires are in a car
Most of the name brand head units have alot of dsp tuning built in. Its limited but if your car or budget allows for a head unit upgrade, that's one of the cheapest upgrades you can do, in my opinion. It's the controller of your system.
I have replaced the head unit in my vehicle and added a subwoofer amplifier, a 4-channel amplifier, and a PRV crossover. Still, I am unable to rid of this annoying nails-on-chalkboard tone from certain notes like some female vocals or piano notes.. it haunts me! The head unit, being a cheaper android unit, it likely to blame, but there's limited options for a MK3 Focus. Would a DSP help me out?
I have some budget NVX components on the way, but I do not want to keep throwing money at this issue.
Do AudioControl DSPs still not have parametric EQ? That's a dealbreaker for me.
What's the difference between a DSP and a head unit that has it built in? On my headunit I can control EQ for each speaker individually and I can set the time alignment on it as well. Would it still be worth it to get a proper DSP in my situation?
This is the only thing that is prevented me from spending 600 bucks on one my head unit has all of those basic time alignment and crossover features built in
What head unit do you have?
Hey, I have a question and hope you can help. I’ve been having a static/high frequency noise coming from my front speakers for a while now, and finally took the time today to try and diagnose the issue. I think it’s because I ran the speaker wire alongside a factory harness, but I’m unable to run the wire any another way. Is there something you can recommend to help eliminate the noise?
For noise issues check out this full video I made. ruclips.net/video/Q8dpucdxs6Y/видео.htmlsi=kFrgByJt7qGGWWBx
@@CarAudioFabrication awesome! I really appreciate it👍
are you aware of any stand alone de-eq boxes that are priced less than a fix86? there are so few DSP's out there that can de-eq automatically. really only bit one, audison, and audio control. personally i like audison but the price is just too high for most installs.
I have bought 2 amplifiers one for doors and one for subs. I also have 4 door speakers and two subs. If i get a DSP do I need a crossover? Im confused help please.
If you have components yea
Hey Mark, first-time/long-time, got a new truck with my same system and lost all the midrange. Long story short, this same system of Type-R door components F&R and JL10W7 were installed in a previous truck last year and sounded amazing, now I’m $3k into the install on my 2022 F450 with B&O sound and it sounds worse than stock. Highs crisp, still got bass but the doors have no mids at all!! Would this be a signal problem from my factory HU that a dsp can correct?? For reference, factory sub and amp are removed; full sound deadening treatment. I’m hesitant to think it’s the shop or the install but idk man😢😢
When I turn the sub down or volume down it sounds terrible.
I want a DSP because I'm building a system in my van. Everything bad in a car is magnified in larger vehicle. Many more speakers. I'm gonna run 8 channels
DSP's doesn't fix engine noise. I've heard this several times that it does and it doesn't.
That's a good one! Yeah, any noise that is interjected into the system needs to be resolved by tracking it down and correcting it, not in the DSP.
It does when you have one with Bluetooth or when you buy an Bluetooth receiver with optical output.
Which in my opinion you should always do.
@@CarAudioFabricationalways!!
When you can get a Dayton dsp-408 for 165USD, it's kind of hard to justify not using one.
Yes you should definitely get one if you like alternator whine noise. Yep, I know this firsthand. I have one. It’s a known issue with them.
@@Turbogto_guy guess it's a good thing the one I have is in my Prius. Lol
Always see competitor's while competing for Bass Boxing or SPL fiddling with the DSP and it hampers the number and takes unnecessary time.
DSP isn't really something you mess with once you get your tune set. I think you are mistaken on what they may have been adjusting.
I’ve recently discovered a reason not to get a DSP: when you are trying to do Hi-Res audio and discover that the DSP only has a frequency of 20Hz-24kHz.
Think of playing a 48khz or up file as essentially being equivalent to super sampling. A 4k image converted to 1080p will retain a much greater amount of detail than a native 1080p image.
You don't have to get the 7 to 8 hundred dollar DSP's either, as a matter of fact I have a cheap hundred dollar DSP that works great!!! I was running a DM-608 and not long after I switched back to my cheap one. IMHO is it FAR batter than the Audiocontrol I had in pretty much every category, ESPECIALLY the android app for each DSP respectfully. The app for the DM-608 is complete and utter trash and for me just that would be enough to scrap the DM-608, never mind all the other headaches.
What's the model name of the hundred dollar one? I don't have $500+ to spend on one, but if I could find a decent one for only $100 or so that's alot more affordable