is one spindle clamp enough for those water cooled spindles or should i get 2 and offset them a few inches to give me more mounting force and stability?
I have never had a problem with one being enough. Others might say different but any flex or movement comes from the rail and wheels. Not the spindle and clamp.
@@702marine Thanks for you reply i just need to find an 80mm for the water cooled spindle that will work with openbuilds Lead 1515 since thats where im gearing to buy
IMO you've got your spindle clamped way too high. You should support less than 1/3 of the way up from the mill end to stop deflection and pressure moving the spindle as you cut. Something to consider.
That is the whole point of this exercise. The "level" of the waste board is irrelevant. To make good cuts you really only need to make sure the machine frame is square and the bit is true to the surface of the waste board.
Good show man! To be honest the whole time I'm just sitting here thinking "Indicators are less than $20 @ HF bro, damn." but that turned out pretty damn good. I would use an indicator personally but I'm a machinist so I've got a few of them laying around the house (and I tend to complicate things more than is absolutely necessary). Is that little bracket the only thing holding the spindle to the Z carriage? It just seems like there should be at least another one with it being that thin.... I know you just put up the video a few hours ago but have you cut something yet and was there a lot of flex? It looks like there's room to add another bracket or even just print a beefier spindle holder and bolt it in place. I'm just asking because I'm considering buying one of these. Thanks for the vid and great work.
It cuts beautifully! However, I plan to mock something up that I can print that will allow for adjustments. I’m trying to keep things simple using easily acquired everyday items that anyone can get. More of the everyday guy kind of thing. You said that Harbor Freight has Tramming gauges?
@@702marine yeah, nothing fancy just a dial indicator. You'd fasten it to your rod then sweep it like you did in the video. The only real difference is instead of relying on noise and feel to judge the runout you'd have an actual reading. I'm a big fan of printing my own stuff when possible, I just got a Prusa a couple months ago and that thing is freakin awesome! Looking forward to seeing some more videos man, I'm definitely gonna have to go through and check out your previous stuff.
looked at a ton of vids for tramming & this is the only one I found for workbee that showed me what I needed to do
Thanks, you give me a great idea to align the spindle
Surely better than before :-). Great work
Thank you!
is one spindle clamp enough for those water cooled spindles or should i get 2 and offset them a few inches to give me more mounting force and stability?
I have never had a problem with one being enough. Others might say different but any flex or movement comes from the rail and wheels. Not the spindle and clamp.
@@702marine Thanks for you reply i just need to find an 80mm for the water cooled spindle that will work with openbuilds Lead 1515 since thats where im gearing to buy
super!!!!! 😀👍
Nice sound edit
This was helpful! Thank you!
2:08 whats that rattling when the machine moves? your screw drive sounds loose as hell
Slow moving stepper motors. That was the old setup. It’s all setup as a QueenBee Pro now...
IMO you've got your spindle clamped way too high. You should support less than 1/3 of the way up from the mill end to stop deflection and pressure moving the spindle as you cut. Something to consider.
I have no issues but plan to make a new clamp that can be adjusted for tramming.
@@702marine They really need 2 clamps or one much bigger cast one. I note that the queen Bee pro comes with 2 clamps
Awesome tip thanks. Saved loads by not buying a special tool!
My friend, I think you’re assuming that the bed is already leveled, but what if it’s tilted or there’s some bowing
I think the spoilboard is already level with the machine itself because it has been surfacing
That is the whole point of this exercise. The "level" of the waste board is irrelevant. To make good cuts you really only need to make sure the machine frame is square and the bit is true to the surface of the waste board.
Good show man! To be honest the whole time I'm just sitting here thinking "Indicators are less than $20 @ HF bro, damn." but that turned out pretty damn good. I would use an indicator personally but I'm a machinist so I've got a few of them laying around the house (and I tend to complicate things more than is absolutely necessary).
Is that little bracket the only thing holding the spindle to the Z carriage? It just seems like there should be at least another one with it being that thin.... I know you just put up the video a few hours ago but have you cut something yet and was there a lot of flex? It looks like there's room to add another bracket or even just print a beefier spindle holder and bolt it in place. I'm just asking because I'm considering buying one of these. Thanks for the vid and great work.
It cuts beautifully! However, I plan to mock something up that I can print that will allow for adjustments. I’m trying to keep things simple using easily acquired everyday items that anyone can get. More of the everyday guy kind of thing. You said that Harbor Freight has Tramming gauges?
@@702marine yeah, nothing fancy just a dial indicator. You'd fasten it to your rod then sweep it like you did in the video. The only real difference is instead of relying on noise and feel to judge the runout you'd have an actual reading. I'm a big fan of printing my own stuff when possible, I just got a Prusa a couple months ago and that thing is freakin awesome! Looking forward to seeing some more videos man, I'm definitely gonna have to go through and check out your previous stuff.
Camber and caster not toe. 😉